SOUK EL TAYEB IN : A FARMERS' MARKET IN

2012 AN EATING CITY CASE HISTORY

AUTHORS: ELISA MEREATUR, KAMAL MOUZAWAK, ISABELLE LACOURT

CREDITS: ALL PICTURES ARE COURTESY OF K. MOUZAWAK

Between innovation and tradition, Souk el Tayeb is an innovative social entrepreneurial project, and also place where a new sense of community is experienced around food value and culture.

The Lebanese (Beirut) farmers' market Looking at the Lebanese socio-cultural The Souk el Tayeb project was created project of Souk el Tayeb shows to what and economic context long years of to preserve food traditions and the extent farmers' markets can be a place conflicts have created inequalities and culture of small farming in Lebanon, of encounter for different people of prejudices and also diseconomies which with the aim to protect the interests of diverse cultures and traditions. have turned the local agri-food system - the local small farmers and producers, These are places where to exchange rich of “savoir faire” and local enabling them to compete fairly in an knowledge and interests and that offer knowledge- into an industrialized agri- era of globalized agricultural trade. alternative ways of food consumption. food system based on worldwide food imports. Index Summary ...... 3

Souk el Tayeb ...... 3

The Lebanese agro-food context...... 4

The actors involved in the Souk El Tayeb project ...... 7

Souk El Tayeb’s activities ...... 10

Souk El Tayeb's goals and objectives...... 11

Not just another market...... 12

The results: strength and weaknesses...... 17

Reflections upon the Souk El Tayeb project...... 19

Reading framework...... 19

Mediagraphy...... 20

2/22 Summary

The Lebanese (Beirut) farmers' market imports. The Souk el Tayeb project was Tayeb activities, including the different project of Souk el Tayeb shows to what created to preserve food traditions and projects and the parties involved. extent farmers' markets can be a place the culture of small farming in Finally, a description of strengths and of encounter for different people of Lebanon, with the aim to protect the weaknesses invites the readers to diverse cultures and traditions. These interests of the local small farmers and contemplate the potential contribution are places where to exchange producers, enabling them to compete of a project arising from civil society in knowledge and interests and that offer fairly in an era of globalized agricultural order to lead to the preservation of alternative ways of food consumption. trade. small and local food production. Looking at the Lebanese socio-cultural After an introduction of the current Furthermore, communication and economic context long years of international agri- food situation, The campaigns and the promotion of new conflicts have created inequalities and ECADIM will then give an overview of environmentally-friendly practices aim prejudices and also diseconomies which the Lebanese socio-cultural and to combat environmental impacts while have turned the local agri-food system - economic scenario, with a special focus simultaneously building a sense of rich of “savoir faire” and local on the agri-food sector and consumer citizenship among diverse communities knowledge- into an industrialized agri- food habits. A broad section is through the promotion of food sharing food system based on worldwide food dedicated to the description of Souk el and trade as well as the inherent

Souk El Tayeb : the first farmers' market in Lebanon

Since the 70s, alternative food alternative food provisioning networks aims to preserve food traditions and provisioning networks have been have only been created recently, after small farm culture in Lebanon to increasing, especially in Europe and the the Civil War (1975- 1990). Their protect the interests of the small United States. There has been a joint intention is to create a sense of farmers and producers, enabling them rise in movements supporting small- community and sharing of cultural to compete with industrial and scale and local food production as a identity. Spaces once dedicated to globalized food trade, while the sort of “resistance” to both the anomic conflicts have now transformed into different governmental associations and forces of a globalising corporate food places of encounter for Christians and agricultural trade unions remain system and the standardization and Muslims, urban and rural people and passive. homogenization of food. The shift small farmers and consumers are toward the production and annulled. consumption of quality food produced Indeed, the first Lebanese farmers' locally has been variously market was created as a private conceptualized either as a more SOUK EL TAYEB was the first farmers' initiative by Kamal Mouzawak, a young sustainable system for the environment market to take place in Lebanon; and Lebanese with experience in the food or for the society: meaning the re- was created in 2004 in downtown sector, with the intent of creating a embedding of the rural to the urban Beirut to share knowledge of food as a “souk” with the same vibrant energies society. basic and important common as traditional “souks”. The driving force denominator that could help bring is solely supplied by small farmers who together fractured communities by bring to the market their knowledge Lebanon has experienced a different promoting unity around common and savoir-faire preserving centuries history. Well known for its long lasting respect for food, land, and agricultural old Lebanese food traditions for future conflicts and socio-cultural divisions, traditions. This farmer’s market also generations to enjoy.

3/22 The literal translation of Souk el Tayeb personality. In we would say also whole project of Souk el Tayeb aims to is “the good market”. In Arabic, Tayeb good, meaning alive … that man is still create an advocacy group to promote means “good” and in this context the good, he is still alive. Good taste, good the consumption of local food, give term “good” is relegated to both taste energy and life are what we always try value to small-scale farmers, and and character. “We would say it is a to add to Souk el Tayeb”. enhance food knowledge culture, while good , for its great taste, and say By bringing together both consumers preserving traditions and raising good about a person for manners and and producers in the same place, the education and skill level.

The Lebanese Agro-food Context

The importance of religions 1975 to 1990 and resulted in an This situation contributed to growing Lebanon is a country of only 10,452 estimated 150,000 to 230,000 civilian poverty and forced Lebanon to become square kilometers with a population of deaths. One-million people (a quarter dependent on international aid, passing 4 to 5 million people. Interestingly, of the population) were wounded, and through two phases with distinct post- despite its small size, it is incredibly another million were cast into exile. war development phases. fragmented for what concerns The post-war occupation of the From 1992 to 1997, foreign aid was religious, national and ideological country by was politically mainly channeled to providing identity. Due to a political system based disadvantageous to the Christian resources for post-war reconstruction on sectarianism (religious identity), the population as most of their leadership projects. Since 1997, a qualitative shift many divisions and feelings of mistrust was driven into exile, or had either has occurred in foreign aid utilization, among the different sects resulted in been assassinated or jailed. However, from reconstruction needs towards long and turbulent conflicts, bad since the end of the conflict until July financial stability and balance-of- government and economic crisis. 2006, Lebanon enjoyed stability, Beirut's payments equilibrium requirements. The reconstruction was almost complete, government maintained balance-of- About half of the population is and increasing numbers of tourists Muslims, Sunni, Shia and , less payments surpluses during this period, poured into the nation's resorts. reduced interest rates on public debt than half of the population is Christian However, in 2006, a month-long war and few belong to minor religions. Even instruments and provided the necessary between Israel and Lebanon that lasted liquidity and 'confidence' to continue though Lebanon is a secular country, 33 days - July 12 to August 14 - killed family matters such as marriage, divorce borrowing funds from local commercial 1,200 Lebanese citizens, most of them banks and foreign investors. More and inheritance are still handled by the civilians. religious authorities representing a importantly foreign aid allowed the person's faith. Calls for civil marriage The economic situation government to avoid financial and are unanimously rejected by the Lebanon is characterised by a liberal monetary crises in 2002. However, the religious authorities but civil marriages economic activity open to international cost of such a qualitative shift was held in other countries are recognized investments. Before the civil war heavy in terms of fiscal management, by Lebanese civil authorities while (1975-1990), the Lebanese economy diversion of funds from reconstruction, “non-religious” is not recognised by the was thriving, thanks to a well-developed and increased dependency of the State on personal documents. banking system; Lebanon was Lebanese economy on foreign aid for considered the “Oriental Switzerland”. stabilization. Conflicts of recent decades During and after the war, economic Poverty and the distribution of Sectarianism has provoked different activity registered a strong decline: foreign aids conflicts that continue to plague many factories were destroyed, foreign A report on poverty, growth and Lebanon since 1975. The so-called Civil investments reduced as well as the War pitted Lebanese Christian against income distribution between 1990 and tourism; consequentially unemployment 2007, edited by the United Nations Lebanese Muslims and saw the increased and in turn inflation. intervention of Israel, Palestine, Syria Developing Project (UNDP), shows that and Iran. The Civil War lasted from nearly 28 percent of the Lebanese

4/22 population can be considered poor and small farmers lose their livelihoods. This with a production of 106,000 tons, 40% 8 per cent can be considered extremely resulted in the loss of farms for many of which is exported to the Arab poor under international standards. This rural dwellers, who were forced to take countries. Apricot is also one of the implies that almost 300,000 individuals on poorly paid jobs. major crops in the country (6 397 in Lebanon are unable to meet their Despite the difficulties and constraints, Ha, 32, 000 tons), mainly cultivated in most basic food and non-food needs. the agricultural sector remains an the North of Lebanon and northern The dollar equivalent of the lower essential component of the Lebanese Bekaa. are used for fresh poverty line (when converted at the economy. About 40% of the Lebanese consumption and in juice and jam current official exchange rate) is US$ population is currently involved in the industries. 2.40 per capita per day. The poor are agricultural sector and agri-food Legumes and vegetables: Several concentrated among unemployed and industries, out of which 34% is employed vegetable crops are considered unskilled workers, such as people full time. 36% of the land is cultivated for important in Lebanon namely tomato working in agriculture and building a total of 277,000 Ha, of which 135,000 (4, 060 Ha, 305,300 tons), cucumber sectors. Ha are irrigated (data published in (3,100 Ha, 142,600 tons), watermelon The most fertile part of the country is 2007). These cultivated areas are located (2,384 Ha, 85,600 tons), cauliflower located on the coast and most of the mainly in the narrow coastal plains of (1,950 Ha, 87,700 tons), cabbage (922 economy buzzes around Beirut, the Akkar, the in-land Bekaa valley, the Ha, 24,100 tons) and lettuce (889 Ha, capital of the country. Poverty is lower Marjeyoun plain in the South and the 22,200 tons). Green pulses like common in the Beirut area, whereas in the terraces along the mountain sides. beans (1,420 Ha, 14,200 tons) and green North, South and Bekaa governorates According to the statistics of the fava beans (1,845 Ha, 14,800 tons) are consumption per capita is below the Ministry of Agriculture, in 2007 the main widely cultivated legumes. Areas are national average. crops in the country were: cropped only to improved varieties, the seeds of which are regularly imported Agriculture development Olive: the total cultivated area has been by seed companies. Prior to the civil war period, food estimated at 59,100 Ha with an average production and supply was internal; annual production of 177, 300 tons. Lebanese food culture however, the conflicts have cancelled Most of the production is locally Lebanese food culture has at length self-sufficiency. During and after the consumed. More than 12 local and been successively influenced by many conflicts, the agricultural sector has introduced varieties are currently civilizations - Arab and non-Arab been heavily financed by foreign aids. A cultivated; and continuous efforts are traditions – that succeeded one another survey conducted by FAO in 2003 undertaken to characterize and in this little country, imprinting it and in indicated that from 1961 to 1998 a total inventory the Lebanese olive diversity particular the capital, Beirut with various of 88% of food was imported as an aid while broadening the local genetic base cultural influences. The food habits and only 12% was produced in the to make it available to farmers. reflect this ancient past and the cultural country. blends of which Lebanon was witness. Cereals: Among the cereal crops, Indeed, Lebanese farmers have been ranks first with a total area of 52, 800 Therefore, food is largely influenced by hurt and priced out of the local markets Ha producing 116, 200 tons. The historical heritage and by the geographic either because of subsidized after-war majority of consumption is covered and climatic diversity in this small food imports, which have kept food through import, which is 3.5 times country. Although traditional food is still prices down, or because of the advent of greater than local production. Durum consumed at all social occasions more industrialized farming methods (marriages, baptisms, funerals, and so wheat landraces are commonly used for leading to the integration of rural food parboiled wheat (burghol) and for bread forth), food habits have changed, as in producing areas into the international making in mixture with common wheat many parts of the world, due to the economy, thus creating a scenario that imported mainly from Australia and urbanization process that began at the severely disadvantages small-holder USA. start of the century. The post-war productions. These structural realities period has accelerated this process have created waves of migration from Fruits: Citrus plantations are estimated because of the large amounts of foreign the rural areas into the cities as small- at 14,600 Ha producing 3,451,000 tons. subsidized imported food that has holder farming have lost their farms and About 60% of the production is locally contributed to the disappearance of ended up working as poorly paid wage consumed, while the remaining 40% is traditional food. workers on the same land. Small-holder exported to the Arab countries. Grape farming loses its economic vitality and plantations are estimated at 10,500 Ha

5/22 Hammana town, district of

The food supply system: Despite the advent of supermarkets, that 5,000 to 6,000 individuals attended traditional souks souks still represent a current food every week and more than 50,000 Prior to half a century ago, the only supply centre for many people, transactions took place every Monday. food supply system was represented by especially those living in the countryside. But their number is going He also describes it as a meeting place traditional souks – permanent city for people of all creeds: Christians, markets as in the old city of Beirut, down, especially in the largest cities where they are replaced by shopping Muslims, Druze and Jews. Today, the Saida or Tripoli – open every day, where Nabatiyyeh market is still vibrant but, as only local producers sold their centres. The most famous souk in south Lebanon is the Nabatiyyeh, traditionally in the other town markets of Lebanon, foodstuff. However, food supply many goods offered are imported from strategies eased and adopted changes. held every Monday. Historical records dating back to the 19th century indicate as far away as China. Moreover, the With the openness to the global system diversity that once characterized it has of food supply, souks became a place that the Nabatiyyeh souk attracted people from all over region. In 1860, the been much reduced by war, polarization where imported goods were also and divisions in Lebanese society. marketed. chronicler Chaker el Khoury reported

Souk el Tayeb farmers’ market in Beirut

6/22 The actors involved in the Souk El Tayeb project.

THE VISIONARY FOUNDER: producers, and the benefits of organic KAMAL MOUZAVAK products. Through this job and increasing exposure, an opportunity came about in PRODUCERS early 2004 to plan a Garden Show that INVOLVED Unlike many other farmers' markets hosted around 10 local producers. In around the world, Souk el Tayeb was not June 2004, Mouzawak created the legal set up by public or private associations, structure to establish Souk el Tayeb as an the chamber of commerce or the independent individual enterprise. “The agriculture trade union. No political body idea of Souk el Tayeb was just an is involved, just merely the will of a single evolution from one thing to another - person: Kamal Mouzawak. post-war cultural gathering activities, to Kamal Mouzawak is a Lebanese born to a food writing, to macrobiotics … then to family of farmers and producers from the setting a farmers market. The idea of a rural town of Mouzawak- He grew up in farmers market existed everywhere, and a culture that lived off of the land and the idea of souks in the region. It was a celebrated food and the importance of mix of both, and mainly a development having a space to share this food with project, a producers-only market, and others. After completing his latter, an evolution to many other undergraduate studies, Mouzawak found projects supporting the same vision”. himself working in a cultural centre, ‘Art Unlike many other farmers' markets et Culture’, that he credited as his first around the world, Souk el Tayeb was not lesson in life. As the first post-war set up by public or private associations, cultural centre in Lebanon, it focused on the chamber of commerce or the providing a space in a historic Lebanese agriculture trade union. No political body home where people could view and is involved, just merely the will of a single interact with local artists. The kitchen of person: Kamal Mouzawak. the house was the heart of the centre. This reminded Mouzawak of the importance of a space where with a THE ASSOCIATE: CHRISTINE common history, despite the variety of CODSI religious and social backgrounds, could come together. The focus on food and In the summer of 2008, Kamal Mouzawak shared history led Mouzawak to travel met Christine Codsi, who was on a 6- writing; discovering places in Lebanon month sabbatical from a successful that, because of the civil war, had been consulting job with a local management previously unreachable and unknown to consulting firm, Consulting and a large portion of the population. From Development Services (CDS). She had these travels came the discovery of spent 10 years on consulting corporate Lebanon through its people and their strategies and business process food, and it was the shift from travel reengineering for other clients and writing to food writing that led to corporations across the MENA region, spotlighting the different food traditions but was searching for a sense of in different regions of the country. By fulfillment on a personal and community 2000, as the editor of ‘Saveurs du Liban level that she felt missing in the context et d’Ailleurs’ – the only food magazine in of her current job and life routines. Lebanon – Mouzawak was exposed to Christine and Kamal enlarged the Souk el macrobiotic food and a philosophy of Tayeb project in November 2009, respecting food, the small-scale food opening TAWLET - a farmers’ kitchen

7/22 near the market area where cuisine is an important way to recruit participants prepared with the market’s products and too. where the chefs are farmers themselves. The market flourished and grew steadily from 10 producers in 2004 to 70 in 2011. To participate in Souk el Tayeb vendors PEOPLE INVOLVED: A must apply through an application form FAMILY BASED available on the Souk el Tayeb website and PROSPECTIVE submit it to the Souk el Tayeb Quality Control Manager. From a customer standpoint, Mouzawak and Codsi followed an unorthodox perspective in that they did not recognize a customer base, but rather a “family base”, with no differentiation between 1 - grow / produce their own consumer and producer. It was an extension of the same philosophy that product within the Lebanese viewed all stakeholders (suppliers, territory; intermediaries, and customer) as “family VENDORS members” that were invested in the same 2 - sell directly without project, thus creating what Codsi called a SHALL BE intermediaries; “virtuous circle.” “It’s not just about an ACCEPTED exchange. It’s about complementarity. 3 - are a small-scale There’s a win-win situation in anything you do in life, and we’re building a family. We IF THEY: producer or farmer (typically tapped onto something important which is a non-industrial food, tradition, life, authenticity, which are infrastructure); issues that touch people’s hearts and that we happen to believe are also crucial for 4 - provide proof that coexistence and nation-building.” products are grown /

PRODUCERS INVOLVED AND produced on own land / THEIR PRODUCTS production place;

5 - provide updated organic Souk el Tayeb was driven by an instinct and focus on creating a means for rural certification from a producers to showcase their products to recognized certification body - an urban clientele. Vendors are farmers and producers coming from different Lebanese for organic producers / regions, who are directly involved in farmers; production. They can be individuals, families, group or association. 6 - allow Souk el Tayeb Participants, farmers and producers, were Quality Control manager to first recruited by Kamal and Souk el Tayeb inspect the farm or location team through visiting them directly in villages and areas of production. of production; Nevertheless, thanks to an increasing popularity of Souk El Tayeb's farmers and 7 - pay the Souk fee; producers currently ask to participate in the market spontaneously. Food & feast, 8 - sell high quality products. regional food festivals (launched in 2007)- as they will be latter on described- were

8/22 1. Organic / certified products: all items 9. Eggs and Poultry: must be from the sold as organic must meet the vendors’ own fowl and reared requirements of an official certification extensively. body. Sellers of organic items at the 10.Cheese and other dairy products: Souk must clearly display a copy of their must be prepared by vendors updated certification when selling at the themselves. Preference will be given to Souk. Only certified organic growers vendors who have a dairy herd may display signs using the words providing the milk used to make the Vendors may sell “certified organic”. dairy products. fresh fruit and 2. Fruits and vegetables: must be fresh 11.Baked Goods: including breads, vegetable, poultry and grown from seeds or seedlings by cakes, pies, biscuits, etc. must be baked the vendor. by vendors in their own kitchen and dairy 3. Mouneh: must be prepared by the (homemade). Baked goods must be kept products, vendor from fresh raw materials, covered at the Souk. homemade food without any additives or preservatives. 12. Soap: must be produced with an Preference will be given to vendors actual hot or cold soap making process. products (mouneh), who grow their own fruits and If the soap contains herbs, preference meat and fish vegetables, which purchase fruits and will be given to applicants who grow vegetables from other SET members, or their own herbs or who purchase herbs products and from local sources. from other SET members, or locally bake d go o ds if 4. Fresh juices: preferably from growers sourced herbs. re sp e ct in g the or from Souk El Tayeb. 13. Dried herbs, spices, beans, grains: 5. Dried Fruits: Preferably from growers must be grown by the vendor and following criteria: or from Souk el Tayeb and dried by processed by the vendor in compliance vendors themselves. with all health regulations. 6. Nuts: must be foraged by Vendors 14. Crafts [if any]: must be handmade. from their own farm. Any craft or artwork sold must be the 7. Honey: Vendors must own the hives work of the vendors themselves. from which honey is extracted and Crafts should be limited at the Souk. bottled. 15. Miscellaneous: other products can 8. Meat and Fish products: must be from be sold at the Souk on a case by case animals raised by vendors and reared basis (i.e.: book from Lebanese authors, extensively. tote bags, etc.).

1. Crops grown in soil fumigated or expiry dates, and a batch number harvested/ protected in storage with allowing traceability for the product. chemicals not approved by the 5. Any vendor wishing to sell new items government, may not be sold at Souk El not previously approved by Souk El Tayeb. Tayeb, must notify the Quality Control Moreover 2. Livestock, meat or dairy product manager in writing a new list of v e n d o r s a r e raised or developed using Bovine products before bringing the products Growth Hormone (BGH) may not be to the Souk. subjected to a sold at Souk El Tayeb. 6. Vendors with organic certified l i s t o f 3. Food and mouneh products products must submit a copy of the restrictions as containing additives, preservatives, certification and the annexes to the colorant or any other chemical reagent Quality. follows: may not be sold at Souk El Tayeb. Producers shall pay a small fee ($25) 4. Food and mouneh products should that is allocated to logistical costs of the be labeled, mentioning the origin of the market such as tent and stands. Vendors product, ingredients, production and are invited to respect the Rules and

9/22 With an increasing awareness of all problems related to food CONSUMERS INVOLVED consumption, consumers preferring CONSUMERS direct marketing channels to buy high INVOLVED There is a distinct group of consumers quality food at a reasonable price have who choose their food on the basis of increased in many industrialized different values, such as: organic countries as well as in Lebanon. Souk el production, environmental Tayeb is located in a wealthy Beirut sustainability, solidarity, social justice, area, so as well as in other similar wellbeing and personal health. Such markets located in other countries, consumers look for “new” forms of consumers are nearly as of the same agri-food markets, either based on profile as anywhere else in the world: direct marketing of local and typical educated, well-travelled, often young products - mainly organic food - parents who want to give the best to directly from producers to consumers. their children, aware individuals making the best choice for the environment,

Souk El Tayeb’s activities

The first steps Souk el Tayeb was perceived first as an Vision, Values & Objectives The first Souk el Tayeb farmers’ market organic market, but soon changed into a The Souk el Tayeb vision - as Kamal said- was held in May 2004 in the Beirut farmers’ market offering fresh, local, and can be summarized as “celebrating food Garden Show- a food, flower and leisure seasonal food products – natural, and traditions that unite communities spring festival. It hosted 10 local traditional and possibly organic. Since while supporting small-scale farmers and producers throughout a successful 5-day September 2005, Souk el Tayeb has been producers and the culture of sustainable event that drew a lot of attention in divided into 2 clear sections: the first agriculture” through the mission of establishing the country's first farmers clearly labeled “organic” for certified fostering innovative, environmentally market. In early June 2004, Mouzawak products and the second labeled “non- sound, economically viable, and socially created the legal structure to establish organic”. responsive approaches”. Souk el Tayeb as an independent Souk El Tayeb is held every Saturday A set of 10 core values complete the individual enterprise. from 9 am to 2 pm in downtown Beirut. vision: quality, respect, transparency, Souk el Tayeb is a virtuous example of In 2010, an attempt was made to hold accountability, responsibility towards interactions and synergies of agri- the market an additional day for almost others, environmental awareness, environmental public goods, rural one year in a different (ABC mall in community service, passionate cultures, local food-ways and food Achrafieh), every Wednesday from 4 to leadership, commitment, innovation and traditions woven to create a project 8 pm, but it was not successful and creativity. with a social purpose. stopped activity.

The project relies on 6 main goals:

1. to bridge producers and consumers; 2. to become a trustworthy economical partner for small producers; 3. to promote food traditions; 4. to build up a common sense of citizenships among diverse communities; 5. to promote environmental-friendly food production; 6. to become a place for exchanges and dialogue.

10/22 Souk El Tayeb's goals and objectives.

Goal 1: Bridge gap between Goal 4: Build citizenship among C. Provide a space where people can food producers and market by diverse communities through freely exchange and share their love of increasing presence in new the promotion of respect and food and traditions (i.e. Tawlet, the markets and regions. interaction producers’ restaurant). Objectives: Objectives: Values and objectives are guidelines to A. Seek out more opportunities to A. Maintain diversity within the choice implement in all project activities, which mostly belong to four main areas: partner with local players in order to of markets where SET will be present increase “social market share”. to ensure that all communities are Support for small-scale farmers and B. Perform analysis to determine represented. producers. domestic and international markets B. Research and implement innovative Launch of local community-level where value can be added. methods to promote citizenship development initiatives. C. Network/lobby with governmental through events or activities on symbolic Advocacy, research and education on and non-governmental players to days (i.e. 22 November). food traditions, heritage and on living achieve increased involvement in C. Launch annual survey of consumers an organic - healthy lifestyle. markets. and non-consumers to assess social Creation of a platform and space D. Perform fundraising to achieve attitude and behavior towards SET. bringing people from different regions financial support to expand market D. Monitor press and public information and of various beliefs around a presence. to understand SET’s position as an common goal. innovative leader in citizenship building. Goal 2: Obtain social and economic recognition for small Goal 5: Impact the environment A social entrepreneurial food producers through the introduction of enterprise: how Souk el Tayeb Objectives: new campaigns and new is structured environmentally-friendly A. Seek to involve more producers When Souk el Tayeb started, it was practices within the institution. neither a pure for-profit enterprise nor Objectives: B. Discover new offers of partnership a non-profit charity, but rather a hybrid and market presence for local A. Look for partnerships with other structure which was first and foremost associations or institutions to promote a social business with a primary non- producers. environmentally-friendly practices (i.e. profit arm (farmers’ market) and Goal 3: Contribute to the eco bag or Cedar Environmental). gradually expanding to include an preservation of tradition B. Engage in environmentally friendly income-generating venture (Tawlet through culinary events and the practices within the institution. farmers’ kitchen opened in 2009). All promotion of traditional returns from Souk el Tayeb farmers’ recipes C. Monitor number of newly market and events were toward introduced environmentally practices at Objectives: maintaining operational solvency, with SET. Mouzawak and Codsi investing their A. Work with local producers / farmers time, energy, and even their personal at the Souk to obtain / revive new Goal 6: Develop a platform for resources and savings, opting out of recipes and traditions. diverse communities to gather to share a common vision and earning a salary and directing capital B. Discover forgotten recipes and set of values towards funding their various events. traditions. Objectives: From 2008 when Christine Codsi C. Prioritize these recipes and A. Ensure that all communities and entered to be part of Souk el Tayeb traditions based on acceptance or project, Kamal saw that it would be regions are included in SET as perceived popularity. better to shift from an ‘individual producers. D. Communicate with general public enterprise’ to an NGO structure. about the existence and value of B. Seek to constantly develop into new Tawlet would separately be registered recipes / traditions. regions to increase reach. as an income generating company.

11/22 Souk el Tayeb employs a full time souk were utilized for managerial-level this philosophy through formal and manager, and quality assurance manager positions, while waiters and support informal internal meetings, – and a part time accountant and office staff were hired through regular communications, recognition, and administrator (all paid with the souk recruitment procedures. Common to sharing success stories. and activities income), whereas Tawlet both hiring strategies - and credited by Additionally, Mouzawak and Codsi employs 8 people including a full time Mouzawak as the reason for the low introduced various empowerment chef, waiters, janitors, a manager. turnover - was the focus and affinity of programs and capacity-building With the structure in place, Souk el new recruits to the philosophy workshops as a means of improving Tayeb recognized that any underlying and driving the endeavours Souk el Tayeb’s producers’ skills and organization’s sustainability lay in of Souk el Tayeb. practical knowledge and bolstering critically leveraging its human capital. In Mouzawak and Codsi believed that the their livelihoods. Codsi stressed the this case, the human capital entailed key to attracting and retaining talent – importance of holding regular training external producers and farmers, as well in this case farmers, producers, and sessions often (on a monthly basis in as internal employees. At first, employees – had less to do with the this case), to ensure that all farmers and recruitment was conducted through structure of the organization than with producers in the network had the references and acquaintances, and as identifying and finding the right profile opportunity to expand their skills. the enterprise grew, a selection process of employees who shared Souk el Topics included the importance of was implemented with clear criteria Tayeb’s philosophy. In practical terms, certification and practical legal tips on delineated. Managing this process was a Codsi was quick to point out that a how to set up a small shop. Most full-time quality control manager who company’s philosophy was integral to producers from Tawlet were part of the ensured that producers, farmers, and ensuring top talent attraction and Souk el Tayeb network and benefited cooks met the quality standards set for retention, and underscored the from additional training capacity each role. Internally, job descriptions importance of fostering and promoting workshops conducted numerous times

Not just another market.

The farmers' market: SOUK EL Eco-Souk is a green space that serves TAYEB as a market, a meeting place, a • 3,000 sqm including a barn, co-op Souk el Tayeb is an open-air weekly community garden, a childrens’ eco- shop, producers’ kitchen, recycling farmers market in Lebanon that playground, a communal kitchen, a co- waste & water plant, kids playground specializes in local, natural, traditional op shop and a mini sorting and • Materials – recycled, reused, locally and organic food products. It is held recycling plant…using green architectural practices, built from re- produced recycled glass and plastic every Saturday from 9 am to 2 pm. The panels market had other locations as well, and used and locally recycled materials and it was originally held at Sofil (Ashrafieh powered by clean, alternative energy. • Zero waste, onsite waste recycling, – June 2004), then moved to Saifi Village This innovative concept brings solar energy, etc. Lebanese communities together in an (Dec 2004) and a Wednesday afternoon • Allows the development of more eco-friendly green space, which Beirut market at Rue Verdun or ABC mal in activities to cater to people more desperately lacks. Ashrafieh were also experimented. than just one day a week Other locations were also attempted: therefore…. Byblos, Zouk Mikael or Tripoli-Mina. The eco-market will become a • bringing more income generating Producers: farmers, bakers, cooks, etc. microcosm of Lebanon where activities for the producers: more come and sell their own typical communities join in celebration of days to sell, more outlets to sell, etc. products. Lebanese rural and culinary traditions. • Provides a flexible dynamic space that It will represent every aspect of The eco-souk: can evolve over time to and environmental best practice against a according to needs. As a natural evolution of Souk el Tayeb, backdrop of fair trade economic activity Eco-Souk will become the permanent and improved social integration. • A living earth – platform for space for the Famers’ Market. environmental awareness.

12/22 The farmers' kitchen: TAWLET to meet the challenge of sustainability. culinary classes and children’s’ culinary Tawlet has shown a steadily growing classes on demand, while Saturday’s monthly revenue stream between souk offers Brunch. At night, Tawlet is Tawlet (Arabic for table) is an open $35,000 and $56,000, and a net income available for private dinners and for “I kitchen where every day a different of $36,000 over 12 months in 2010 The COOK” formula, where guests play the producer/cook prepares typical food majority of revenue generated by this role of chefs and Tawlet personnel is from his/her region according to the new venture was directed towards food available to help people set their menu. philosophy that “everyday hosts a and beverage (F&B) costs and salaries different cook, a different producer, a Other activities include: Photography (including Mouzawak’s and Codsi’s first exhibitions, Book signings, Dekenet different meal, and a different story”. salaries). In keeping with their mission Most of the cooks belong to the Souk Souk el Tayeb: a coop-shop selling of helping and promoting local farmers’ and producers’ products el Tayeb’s “family”, while many more are producers, Mouzawak and Codsi were producers that sell at the Saturday diligent in ensuring that most of Tawlet’s farmers’ market. Other are just cooks spending for F&B was directed to the at Tawlet, chefs from Beirut or from producers of Souk el Tayeb. Indeed, around the world (visiting Beirut). It local producers made up 60% of provides a permanent space or meeting Tawlet’s F&B, ensuring their continued place in Beirut for local producers economic viability. mainly women to prepare the specialty and cuisine. Each day of the week would Though the social mission adopted did focus on a different producer from a not leave a high margin for profitability, region in Lebanon. Tawlet nevertheless generated a surplus for the founders in its first year of Tawlet was launched by Kamal and operation. According to Codsi, “We Christine in November 2009 ; a made sure that our producers are paid farmers’ kitchen that would generate a generously for raw materials, and that steady income for producers, our customers are charged moderate particularly women, as well as Souk el prices, which are considerations that Tayeb, while maintaining the core values remain at the heart of our social of their social business. With Tawlet, the business model.” Tawlet more idea was to create a permanent space importantly attested to the fact that the where producers from remote villages social entrepreneurs held themselves could cook their cuisine, local dishes, accountable to their core constituency and specialties, and make them available in their new revenue generating to city clientele. Mouzawak conceived ventures, hence staying in tune with the of Tawlet “as more than just a social side of their mission and striking restaurant; it is a space that provides a delicate balance between upholding opportunities for producers and the original vision and goal while farmers, particularly women living in generating an income and a sustainable remote villages, to share with others source of revenue. Codsi considered their food traditions and culture, in Tawlet as an opportunity to tackle the addition to earning a revenue or challenge of sustainability head on, income.” For Codsi “Tawlet is a for- while remaining as inspired and profit extension of Souk el Tayeb, but committed to the core mission and essentially retains the same non-profit guiding values of Souk el Tayeb. soul.” Once a month, Tawlet (the Souk el The creation and institutionalization of Tayeb open kitchen- see below) hosts a Tawlet in November 2009 seemed like special guest- chef, food writer. Monday the most logical and pragmatic solution to Friday hosts a Producers ’buffet,

13/22 Other events and campaigns partnership with USAID in 2007 and Farmers’ market and then Tawlet, “the the United Nations Development SOUK EL TAYEB farmers' kitchen”, has been linked with Program for 2008 and 2009). Food and RELATED other events such as food-awareness Feast activities were initiated in 2007. campaigns and food and feast events in For each event, Souk el Tayeb would EVENTS various rural communities, celebrating select a region and a food theme, diverse local cultures, traditions. gathering farmers and producers of the region around it. The event includes an Souk el Tayeb has been organizing many exhibition of the local farm produce, a events to point out that people, food competition and local regardless of socio-cultural entertainment (, local band…). Each background, eat not just to feed theirs event is usually coupled with visits to body but also theirs mind. So events local sites and attractions. Souk el Tayeb aim to highlight what perhaps is the works hand in hand with municipalities most important thing: eating brings and regional authorities and people together. organizations to organise and implement events. Food and Feast aims at identifying and supporting local TASTE OF BEIRUT producers of the different regions thus promoting and encouraging local Taste of Beirut was an event held in production and giving recognition to Spring of 2008 by Marije Vogelzang a rural producers. It also aims at Dutch designer who was invited to identifying regional dishes and Souk el Tayeb to work on a workshop propagating food traditions. Food and and presentation called Khobz w Melh Feast promotes every visited region on the Green Line (meaning literally (sites, activities and attraction), “Bread and Salt on the Green Line”. In encouraging internal tourism. Each her book “EAT LOVE”, M.V says that event is visited by hundreds of visitors when you have a good bond with one from all around Lebanon. another then you are inextricably During 2007, six Food and Feast bound together like salt and bread. activities were implemented regionally, Marije involved participants in the in collaboration with SRI/INMA workshop to make basins of bread as a (USAID), while further activities were metaphor. Indeed, people are essentially implemented in Beirut. Food and Feast alike, made of the same dough, but at activities have greatly achieved their the same time very different one to objectives, during 2007, through: another, in other words unique form. So bowls assumed different forms, kneaded The number of small scale, quality by individuals from a range of oriented producers that have backgrounds. The bowls were filled with participated in the events. typical Lebanese food and presented on The sales, visibility and contacts that a long line of tables running right to the these activities generated for the market. producers Press coverage (local and international) FOOD & FEAST (AKL W EID) and general public awareness. The implication and active participation Food & Feast (Akl w Eid) since 2007 of local authorities, organizations and are a series of festivals in Lebanese institutions making each of the events a regions and in Beirut, to promote local sustainable community based traditions and food specialties, project. organised by Souk el Tayeb, (in

14/22 Kids’ Books: Kids’ Books is a yearly BEIT LOUBNAN (COMMUNAL event held in Souk El Tayeb’s weekly HOMES OF TRADITION) famers’ market in Saifi. The event includes an exhibition of children’s’ books along with various activities for Souk el Tayeb has partnered with the kids, like Storytelling, Craftwork and International Labour Organization (ILO) musical Entertainment to develop Beit Loubnan/Communal Homes of Tradition (CHT). These CHT “Homes” are located in Lebanese NATIONAL DAY villages as centres featuring traditional architecture, arts and crafts, sustainable agriculture, indigenous food and National Tabbouleh Day is a day to "^ tl)t fu =0)'te celebrate the most famous and r,u Lebanon’s legendary hospitality. {q5', ,la...-l 3E cherished Lebanese dish. The National ;l' q c3' E Hq d The Mission of the project is to keep IH 2a H J= Tabbouleh Day was launched o Seeds for Peace P :.3:.i the farmer/producer in his own :l q.- internationally on Saturday, 7 July 2001 Yl ? environment while creating a meeting by Ricardo Mbarkho, where one would 3l {t place for producers, artisans and {"= make a tabbouleh home and send a -l- a'\r9 consumers to contribute towards picture to a common forum. Since rl Àa{.1 reviving and perpetuating local ,du a 2007, it is an official event in Lebanon, =d- traditions. The goal is to prevent and is held at Souk el Tayeb, every first traditions and crafts from dying out by Saturday of July. During the National creating job opportunities in the rural Tabbouleh Day, a competition of the communities through a wide range of Best Tabbouleh is held in three different services, offering traditional food, arts ùI.Ítl3E categories: traditional tabbouleh; winter F(O(OTD and crafts, the best Lebanese tabbouleh; creative tabbouleh. ingredients and skills in an authentic lr(o'T setting. TTZ4ILC3 SEEDS FOR PEACE -OlÈGiPLANT SEEDS FOR PEACE SOUK @ SCHOOL Seeds for Peace is a campaign aimed at supporting small-scale farmers, Souk @ school is a year-long project in producers and artisans who are still schools for students of all ages, to raise perpetuating traditions, local specialties awareness of healthy life and food, and and natural ways of life. A campaign promote farmers and producers to aiming to: save cultural landscape, students and their families. Projects defined by agriculture, plantations and have been realized in Lyçee Français all other human interventions in the Berjaoui, ACS (American Community land and to enhance professionalism of School) and Lycee Melkart. All souk @ small enterprises, so to support rural school projects end by a small version development, give recognition to small of the Souk in the school, introducing producers and perpetuate tradition, producers to students and their which is the history of land and human. parents.

F A R M E R S ’ E X C H A N G E THE KIDS’ CORNER PROGRAM

The Kids’ Corner at Souk El Tayeb’s As any of Souk el Tayeb’s projects, the weekly farmers’ market is a space for “Farmers Exchange Program” aims to kids. It hosts educational games and give recognition to small-scale farmers activities for students of all ages to raise and producers of high quality food awareness on a healthy lifestyle and products. food.

15/22 The FEP’s approach is seen as a bilateral Tuscan smallholder in terms of language exchange between farmers and and traditions. But at the same time, the producers around the world. Lebanese two will have much in common: their farmers and producers will visit respect for nature, their devotion to the international markets and share the land, their quest for quality produce, work experience and daily life of fellow their concern for sustainable farmers and producers. During the production and their desire to market course of their visit, they will participate and distribute their goods effectively. in farmers’ markets and present their Beyond difference towards similarity! traditional food in tasting sessions, Always using the same visionary themed dinners, cooking classes and approach, the experiences from the workshops. They will stay with fellow Farmers exchange program will farmers and producers, assisting them ultimately be collected in a book, on the farm and making field trips to “Farmers and Markets of the World”. the area. In return, Souk el Tayeb will welcome farmers and producers from markets around the world to share the DEKENET SOUK EL TAYEB same experience in Lebanon, while introducing them to the Souk el Tayeb’s family and to Lebanese traditions in Dekenet Souk el Tayeb created in 2006 general. This program will be made as a selection of Farmers' products possible through the extensive network under Dekenet Souk el Tayeb private of SET all around the world. It will be label, Dekenet is a real seal of quality, a implemented in partnership with fair recognition for all producers, a farmers’ markets, international and local perpetration of culinary tradition and associations, schools and restaurants as the best our land, mountains and sea well as individuals active in the fields of have to offer. environment, agriculture, food and Dekenet also assembles traditional travel. The FEP has already established a kitchen utensils as well as books around strong network of partners in London, culinary heritage. Galway, Amsterdam, New York, and Dekenet products are available at Latakia. This exchange is to explore Tawlet Souk el Tayeb, Mar Mikhael, Nahr similarities rather than differences. Of Street and at TSC Signature, Beirut course Abou Rabih, a Lebanese farmer Souks. from Akkar, is very different from a

16/22 The results: strength and weaknesses

A great success Building citizenship among diverse essentially about building platforms for Since 2004, the starting year of the communities through the promotion of inter-communal interactions and Souk el Tayeb project, many results have respect and interaction. At the core of nurturing a common appreciation for been achieved. as can be seen here Souk et Tayeb is the aspiration to build shared values and traditions. citizenship, a sense of community, below: Reconciling social and financial common traditions and shared history. sustainability Bridging food producers and consumers This was the broader social aspiration by increasing presence in new markets that motivated the proliferation of As a social business, Souk el Tayeb has and regions. That it happened thanks to activities undertaken. Partnerships were been managing to sustain its financial the weekly market in Beirut but also forged across various spheres and viability through creating income- thanks to the ‘Food and Feast’ project: a sectors including foreign government generating ventures as well as launching multi-town yearly event whereby Souk agencies, local municipalities, local innovative events that served to further el Tayeb collaborated with about 12 ministries, the United Nations, non- promote its vision. Souk el Tayeb was Lebanese rural municipalities and governmental organizations (NGOs), considered as the umbrella enterprise producers in their hometowns to international organizations, banks, encompassing both the farmers’ market organise a celebratory event of their intergovernmental organizations, local and the farmers’ kitchen, where each local traditions and wealth. The festivals universities, and the private sector. followed its own legal and were organised in a dozen villages organizational structure and quality across Lebanon. Souk el Tayeb further Impacting the environment through the control standards but shared the same empowered local governments by introduction of new campaigns and new overarching mission or purpose, hence involving them in the organization and environmentally friendly practices. Souk reinforcing each other in a synergistic planning of each event and sharing the el Tayeb lived daily its mission of local way. support and contribution, awareness- responsibilities and outcomes of these This organizational design allowed Souk events. raising and education, advocating a healthy lifestyle, and environmental el Tayeb (farmer’s market) to grow from Promoting social and economic responsibility - Souk el Tayeb was the an enterprise with a budget just over recognition for small food producers. first space in Lebanon to ban the use of $12,000 in 2004 to a budget of As a social enterprise, Souk el Tayeb plastic bags through its ‘Plastic is Back’ $100,000 in 2010. Over the same maintained that all gains and profits campaign underscoring the importance period, Souk el Tayeb increased the should be reinvested in projects that of upholding principles through action. number of producers from 10 individual benefit the producers, the local Tawlet (the farmers’ kitchen as it will be producers to over 70 in 2011, impacting farmers, and cooks that come from discuss later in the ECADIM) was the around 300 direct beneficiaries who remote villages and regions. Souk el 1st restaurant in Beirut where smoking work with the producers. Mouzawak Tayeb sought to foster this connection was banned, despite the fact that the and Codsi credited this phenomenal between the farmers and the city owners did not display any signs or growth and scaling impact to the low- clientele and promote in the process instructions to that effect. cost organizational design adopted, the social and economic wellbeing of translating into increased economic small scale producers. Developing a platform for diverse viability for rural producers, and communities to gather to share a particularly women producers, and Contributing to the preservation of common vision and set of values. Souk tradition through culinary events and reinforcing their business model. For el Tayeb was founded on the idea that example, since the inception of Souk el the promotion of traditional recipes. food was the basic common Educational programs, including Tayeb, producers have continued to pay denominator uniting the different only $25 to set up a table in the Souk. ‘Souk@school’ and ‘Prepare your communities. Souk el Tayeb embraced Meal’, along with educational children’s This fee has remained constant despite the notion of “looking for similarities exponential growth. During this time, activities at the farmers’ market, were beyond differences.” In a country as designed to educate the youth on Mouzawak and Codsi did not earn a diverse as Lebanon, Souk el Tayeb was salary from the money generated by healthy living and preserving their striving to emphasize commonalities, country’s wealth, traditions and natural Souk el Tayeb; instead directing all revolving around shared food traditions surplus income towards the producers, resources. and heritage. Souk el Tayeb was

17/22 meeting basic operating costs, and such as mouneh (vegetable preserves), and sharing of knowledge. "Souk el sustaining the fast-paced expansion of olive oil, fruit juices, and honey. Tayeb’s figures are as follow: Souk el Tayeb. Another market - Beirut Earth Market- A-from 2009 till Sep 2010 is held every Tuesday from 9 am to 2 However, in mid-2009, Mouzawak and · Low season: 30 producers; 500 visitors Codsi started thinking about pm in the central Hamra district, well sustainability in a different way and known for its shops and cafes, the · High Season: 70 producers; 1200 visitors Beirut Earth Market has provided an contemplated revenue-generating · Average: 50 producers; 800 visitors options to enlarge Souk el Tayeb, and important new outlet for 15 small-scale B-from Sep 2010 to Dec 2011 benefit the producers and themselves farmers and producers from the city's going forward. surrounding region. Products range · Low season: 25 producers; 200 visitors from fresh fruit and vegetables to · High season: 60 producers; 800 visitors By 2011, having achieved great progress mouneh (traditional Lebanese and gradual institutionalization, preserves), mankoushe (traditional · Average: 40 producers; 500 visitors" Mouzawak realized that Souk el Tayeb thyme bread), olive oil and artisan Data Souk el Tayeb, 2011 was at a critical juncture, and needed to natural soaps, the market provides However, Souk el Tayeb is still facing few think carefully about the evolution and reliable access to quality food. As with weaknesses. On the one hand, looking expansion of the project. Mouzawak all Earth Markets, it has also created an at the organizational point of view, it called on his Managing Partner, important social space for people to can be said that the market being Christine Codsi, to discuss the best way meet, and where they can rediscover without a proper covered structured- to scale Souk el Tayeb’s impact through the distinctive features of their regional requires a lot of efforts in terms of promoting a sustainable living for a cultural identity. hours of work and costs to set it (to wider group of small-scale producers The Beirut Earth Market has been provide to stands electric power etc...). and farmers. The question that developed as part of the ROSS program Moreover, being open air it is subjected remained unresolved was whether to (Reconstruction, Employment, Services to external phenomenon such as the invest immediate and limited resources and Development) of Italian weather. in expanding the existing producer Cooperation, Italian Ministry of Foreign network or focus on developing a new Affairs. This program has provided During the war in 2006, because Beirut income-generating business venture support to small producers through was under the bombs, Souk el Tayeb that would secure more exposure and training courses and assisted in opening couldn’t take place for more than one potential entry into different markets, a further two Lebanese markets in El month. It was very important to find an sustaining an increased number of Mina and Saida. The project is co- alternative for producers who were producers over the long term. financed by the Regional living of their weekly sales – so an Dissemination of the project Authority, and is run by the NGO alternative market was created during the 33 war days, in a summer resort. Not all the attempts to open new UCODEP in collaboration with Slow Food Beirut and the Slow Food farmers’ market have been successful. On the other hand, looking at number Foundation for Biodiversity. For instance, Souk el Tayeb has tried to of people involved, it can be said that it open other markets in other small New projects to develop “Souk el is still a small scale initiative that cities in Lebanon without success. Tayeb” markets are under study both in involves only a small portion of the Qatar and Dubai. Beirut population - a niche of educated However, it has been an inspiring and wealthy consumers. The fragility of activity that also created of other Weaknesses the project also derives from the fact markets and activities which promote All activities developed and economic that it is tightly related to the person of local food and producers. results achieved certainly show that the founder. El Mina was launched in December Souk el Tayeb has gathered a solid Moreover, the market is held only once 2007. The market was originally network of sensible producers and a week and not every day, as a developed by Souk el Tayeb and held on consumers in only a few years, traditional souk, which means that Souk land provided by Mina City Council, not obtaining success beyond all el Tayeb is perceived more as a special far from the sea and the city's fishing expectations. In Beirut and to some event than an everyday market place. port, and provides a venue for local extent in Lebanon, it has become the producers to sell their produce: reference point for a better food seasonal fruit and vegetables, system and place of positive encounters traditionally made Lebanese products

18/22 Reflections upon the Souk El Tayeb project Souk el Tayeb is an interesting example of meet people of different creeds and supply chain system in ), the project how an independent individual enterprise traditions can come together. However, it highlights the need - at a worldwide level- project has been able in few years to has not yet been able to challenge the of new initiatives able to create local contribute to the preservation of small Lebanese agro-food system. Although alternatives to the mainstream and and local food production and to impact Souk el Tayeb was the first Lebanese globalized agro-food system, which has the environment through the attempt to make people reflects on the been causing diseconomies, introduction of new campaigns and new importance of a local food production environmental and socio-cultural environmentally-friendly practices, and to based on the organic agriculture problems. Though apparently small and build citizenship among diverse principles, still it has not been able to insignificant, these examples can in communities through the promotion of neither influence the Lebanese agro food concert contribute to convince exchange and share of food and food policy makers nor expanded the project consumers that policy makers should culture. Souk el Tayeb has turned a city to other part of Lebanon. The Lebanese innovate designing local food policies space (empty and anonymous) into a Minister of Agriculture, particularly after relying on product quality (including place (where human relations take place) the Arab Spring, still remains fixed on the health and environmental quality), job of encounters where to share knowledge idea that the agro-food production creation and valorisation of local food traditions between producers-coming should be based on large scale production in one hand and connection from a rural culture- and consumers- production of few crops and rely on between the different regions at coming from an urban and globalized international goods import. continental and trans-continental level context. To some extent, thanks to the Nevertheless, similar to actions taken in according to their cultural and different campaigns and events, Souk el the CAMPAGNA AMICA project production specificities and needs in Tayeb serves as an instrument where (creation of an alternative short food another hand. Reading framework

Souk el Tayeb represents the Lebanese food as a vehicle of knowledge and and consumers can influence the a nation’s answer to the will in many countries, to traditions able to raise interest and food and agriculture system and to what develop an alternative to globalized and connect people. The Lebanese (Beirut) extent they can influence the government’s standardized food supply system which farmers' market project, Souk el Tayeb decisions making? To what extent can had led to the separation between urban brings a strong demonstration that Farmers’ Markets be considered an and rural areas and between food farmers' markets can be a place of innovative short supply food chain? To what producers and consumers; has have led encounter for different people of diverse extent can they challenge the mainstream to diseconomies, food price cultures and traditions, where to globalized food and agricultural system? speculations, which enables farmers to exchange knowledge and interests and Of course, there is no one answer for get a fair price and to valorise good also where to experiment alternative the above questions. Short food supply quality fresh products. The design of a ways of food consumption. system can become really alternative short food supply chain system, which It brings elements to answer the only if they become achievable by the has been mainly interpreted as a creation following questions: To what extent can mass and not a niche sporadic project. of food products direct-selling occasions food bring people together? The positive trend of both Campagna for farmers. To what extent Souk el Tayeb uses Amica and Souk el Tayeb shows that a Looking at the Lebanese socio-cultural marketing and communication to create good quality education and and economic scene, long years of communication project runs very well as economic value for small food producers? conflicts have created inequalities and This project may be compared to a catalyser. Yet, wider food policies are prejudices and also diseconomies which Campagna Amica Italian project, also needed to make the reaction working. have turned the local agro-food system - relying on the synergy created by The involvement of producers and farms rich of “savoir faire” and local knowledge marketing and communication tools. trade union or associations is not - into an industrialized agro-food system However the results also highlight the enough and must be fostered by based on worldwide food imports. limits of the project: How can a market politicians and public decision makers at However, the Souk el Tayeb project has open just one day a week 9am-2pm make regional, national and international level. been demonstrating to be a successful changes for the city food provision? To what place where to experiment a new extent Farmers’ Markets and so producers communication on the importance of

19/22 MEDIAGRAPHY

TO LEARN MORE ABOUT LEBANESE FOOD AND FARMING POLICIES:

ZURAYK R., 2011 “FOOD, FARMING AND FREEDOM: SOWING THE ARAB SPRING”. JUST WORLD BOOK.

Rami Zurayk is an agronomy professor of Ecosystem Management in the Faculty of Agricultural and Food Sciences at the American University of Beirut and a long-time activist for political and social justice. He has published over a hundred articles, monographs and technical reports on agriculture, food, environment and education. Zurayk's current research focuses on the relationship between landscapes and livelihoods, on food politics, and on local food systems. He is the co- founder of the Association for Lebanese Organic Agriculture and of Slow Food Beirut. He initiated, the HYPERLINK "http://www.healthybasket.org/"Healthy Basket, Lebanon’s first and on-going community supported agriculture program in 2001. After the July 2006 Israeli war on Lebanon, he created a post-war development program, HYPERLINK "http:// landandpeople.blogspot.com/"Land and People to aid in livelihood recovery. His three most recent books are: From `Akkar to `Amel, Lebanon’s Slow Food Trail (co-authored with Sami Abdul Rahman, 2008), Plants and People: Ethnobotanical Knowledge from Lebanon (co-authored with Salma Talhouk, 2010). An interesting article is been published on the Slow Food Almanac: Zurayk R., 2008, Souk Every Monday, Almanacco Slow Food, Bra – Italy p. 108-113

This book gives a broader idea about the issues of food sovereignty and politics in the Middle-Eastern countries and how the food-price crisis of the 2007-2008 affected the area. The book is also well describes the problems created by the western-dominated development efforts, an argument only briefly touched in the first part of the ECADIM. Moreover, issues at the nexus of environment, resources, and people, including phenomena such as the “Slow Food” movement with which Zurayk has long been affiliated, are largely described. Zurayk interleaved between the book chapters a series of informal travel reports, illustrated with his own photos, from trips he took in Lebanon, Syria, Iraq, and Morocco. In these reports he shares some of what he learned (and enjoyed) about these countries' land and people-- and their food! Central issues include environment, resources, and people, including phenomena such as the “Slow Food” movement with which Zurayk has long been affiliated. Zurayk interview on the book “Food, Farming and Freedom”: HYPERLINK "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttBraP- zIaU"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttBraP-zIaU

MOUAWAD H., 2005 “MODERNITY AND TRADITION OF LEBANESE FOOD CONSUMPTION BETWEEN STANDARDIZATION AND PARTICULARSIMS”. 11TH CONFERENCE OF ERF (ECONOMIC RESEARCH FORUM), BEIRUT. AVAILABLE AT: HYPERLINK "HTTP://WWW.MAFHOUM.COM/PRESS8/237E14.PDF"HTTP://WWW.MAFHOUM.COM/ PRESS8/237E14.PDF

Hanane Mouawad wrote this paper as her PHD field research in Food Economy. The aim of this paper is to explore urbanization phenomenon and its consequences on food consumptions through tradition or modernity in Lebanon. The research has demonstrated that the thesis of the increase of food dependence with urbanization (urban population was multiplied by 4 from 2001 to 2005) was not confirmed. Data from questionnaire with 216 households on food consumer’s behavior have been discussed. Empirical results have proved that in Lebanon, neither tradition nor modernity is the exclusive prerogative of the cities or the villages. The tendencies towards modernity or tradition are present in the villages as well as in the cities. The article is an appealing read because - along with tables and charts - gives inner sight on how food-scapes have been changed in Lebanon throughout the years and why. It also well describes the role of food as a bridge between cultures and religions in a country as divided as Lebanon.

20/22 2008, “Poverty, growth and income distribution report”, edited by United nation developing project available at: HYPERLINK "http://www.undp.org.lb/communication/publications/index.cfm"http://www.undp.org.lb/ communication/publications/index.cfm

TO THINK OVER THE MULTI-RELATIONS THAT ARE EMBEDDED IN ALTERNATIVE FOOD NETWORKS

GOODMAN D. 2009 “PLACE AND SPACE IN ALTERNATIVE FOOD NETWORKS: CONNECTING PRODUCTION AND CONSUMPTION”, DEPARTMENT OF GEOGRAPHY: KING'S COLLEGE LONDON. AVAILABLE AT: HYPERLINK "HTTP:// WWW.KCL.AC.UK/CONTENT/1/C6/03/95/42/GOODMANWP21.PDF"HTTP://WWW.KCL.AC.UK/CONTENT/1/C6/03/95/42/ GOODMANWP21.PDF

This paper examines the realm of Alternative Food Networks: new and rapidly mainstreaming spaces in the food economy defined by―among other things―the explosion of organic, Fair Trade, and local, quality, and premium specialty foods. In these networks, it is claimed that the production and consumption of food are more closely tied together spatially, economically and socially; however, the politics and practices of alternative food networks have more recently come under critical scrutiny from geographers and others as a narrow and weakly politicized expression of middle- and upper-class angst. It is interesting to read this paper to reflect on to what extent Souk el Tayeb can be a terrain of unity, a place where diversities are really cancelled and not only a place where only upper-class wealth people go to do their shopping. The paper well analysed the social relations of production and consumption that arise in places such farmers' markets, which the author defines as contested knowledge practices of growing food and knowing food. Zurayk interview on the book “Food, Farming and Freedom”: HYPERLINK "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttBraP- zIaU"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttBraP-zIaU

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON SOUK EL TAYEB AND THE PROJECTS CONNECTED TO IT:

Souk el Tayeb videos: worth watching to feel the Souk el Tayeb project atmosphere and to understand in which contest the market was created, which people are involved and which products are sold. Slow Food Lebanon-Souk el Tayeb, 2008, HYPERLINK "http://www.youtube.com/watch? v=8_OqgSLrX94&feature=related"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_OqgSLrX94&feature=related Slow Food- Beirut, Lebanon HYPERLINK "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0wCjut5YAY&feature=related"http:// www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0wCjut5YAY&feature=related (Kamal Mouzawak, Souk el Tayeb founder is talking about him self and the Souk el Tayeb experience)

21/22 TO KNOW MORE ABOUT WHAT INTERNATIONAL JOURNALISTS WROTE ABOUT SOUK EL TAYEB

HYPERLINK "http://www.greenprophet.com/2010/10/beirut-souk-el-tayeb-farmer/"http://www.greenprophet.com/ 2010/10/beirut-souk-el-tayeb-farmer/ HYPERLINK "http://www.soukeltayeb.com/articlesArchive.php"http://www.soukeltayeb.com/articlesArchive.php (all the articled called directly by Souk el Tayeb)

TO SUBSCRIBE TO SOUK EL TAYEB MONTHLY NEWSLETTER TO BE UPDATED ON ALL THE ACTIVITIES:

HYPERLINK "http://www.soukeltayeb.com/pressNewsletter.php"http://www.soukeltayeb.com/pressNewsletter.php

RECOMMENDED WEBSITE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT SOUK EL TAYEB AND ITS RELATED ACTIVITIES AND FRIENDS:

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