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Contents

Walking Tour: ...... 167 Nap Heart of the City .....108 Plan Your Trip Grand Canal ...... 170 Mus Sights ...... 110 ’s Top 12 ...... 6 Basilica di Naz Itineraries ...... 18 Tours ...... 117 San Marco ...... 172 Sub If You Like… ...... 24 Shopping ...... 117 Palazzo Ducale ...... 174 Nap Month by Month .....26 Entertainment ...... 118 Gallerie Sigh Get Inspired ...... 29 Eating ...... 119 dell’Accademia ...... 176 To u r Family Travel ...... 30 Drinking & Nightlife ....122 Venetian Islands ...... 178 Ente Need to Know ...... 32 Sights ...... 182 Eatin Tuscany 127 Activities ...... 186 Drin 35 Towers of San Tours ...... 186 Vatican Museums ...... 38 Gimignano ...... 130 Shopping ...... 188 Pom St Peter’s Basilica .... 42 ...... 132 Entertainment ...... 189 Expl Pantheon ...... 44 Driving Tour: Eating ...... 189 Ruin Colosseum ...... 46 Tuscany ...... 136 Drinking & Nightlife ....193 Othe Museo e Galleria Lucca ...... 138 Where to Stay ...... 197 Borghese ...... 50 Montalcino ...... 140 Am Roman Forum...... 52 Montepulciano ...... 142 Milan 199 A Da Walking Tour: Arezzo ...... 143 Shopping & Design Cap Emperors’ Hot Spots ...... 202 Footsteps ...... 58 Ama 145 Duomo ...... 204 Walking Tour: Rave Walking in the The Last Supper .....206 Piazzas of Rome ...... 60 Cinque Terre ...... 148 Sights ...... 208 Sights ...... 62 Sic .....150 Tours ...... 209 Tours ...... 77 Mt E Monterosso ...... 152 Shopping ...... 212 Shopping ...... 77 Valle ...... 152 Entertainment ...... 213 Entertainment ...... 79 Tem ...... 153 Eating ...... 213 Eating ...... 79 Pale Manarola ...... 153 Drinking & Nightlife ....215 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 87 Cata ...... 154 Where to Stay ...... 93 Syra Italian Lakes 219 157 95 Explore Bellagio...... 222 Basilica di San Isole Borromee ...... 224 Duomo ...... 98 Francesco ...... 160 Lago Maggiore ...... 226 Galleria Sights ...... 163 dell’Accademia ...... 102 Lago di Como ...... 228 Activities ...... 164 Galleria degli Eating & Drinking ...... 164 Uffizi ...... 104

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167 233 170 Museo Archeologico In Focus Survival Guide Nazionale ...... 236 Italy Today ...... 306 Directory A–Z ...... 334 172 Subterranean History ...... 308 Transport ...... 341 174 Naples ...... 240 Art & Language ...... 346 Sights ...... 242 Architecture ...... 318 Index ...... 348 176 Tours ...... 247 The Italian Table ...322 Symbols & 178 Entertainment ...... 247 Lifestyle ...... 326 Map Key ...... 354 182 Eating ...... 248 Fashion & 186 Drinking & Nightlife ....249 Design ...... 330 186 188 255 189 Exploring the 189 Ruins ...... 258 193 Other Sights ...... 264 197 Italian Lakes p218 Venice 267 Milan p166 199 A Day in Positano ... 270 p198 Capri ...... 272 Cinque Terre 202 Amalfi ...... 276 p144 Florence 204 Ravello ...... 278 p94 206 Tuscany Assisi p126 p156 208 Sicily 281 209 Mt Etna ...... 284 Rome 212 Valley of the p34 213 Temples ...... 286 Naples 213 p232 Pompeii ...... 288 215 Amalfi Coast p254 ...... 296 p266 Syracuse ...... 300 219 222 224 226 Sicily 228 p280

000-planner-bc-ita1.indd0-planner-bc-ita1.indd 5 115/01/20165/01/2016 4:23:464:23:46 PMPM 10 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITALY’S TOP 12 4 Cinque Terre For the sinful inhabitants of the Cinque Terre’s fi ve sherbert-coloured villages – Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore – penance involved a hike up the vertiginous cliff side to the sanctuary to appeal for forgiveness. Scale the same trails today through terraced vineyards, and as the heavenly views unfurl, it’s hard to think of a more benign punishment. For those seeking less exertion, hop from one village to the next on the train. Riomaggiore (p154)

5 Assisi Follow in the footsteps of St Francis to his home town of Assisi. Incredibly, this Umbrian hilltop centre seems to have changed little since the peace-loving saint and his friend St Clare lived here in the 12th century, and it’s a thrilling experience to walk its narrow medieval lanes to the Basilica di San Francesco. This, the town’s great landmark church, is one of Italy’s most revered religious sites, a serene Gothic basilica adorned with a breathtaking series of frescoes.

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Rome to the Lakes

This 10-day jaunt through central where you can see the saint’s life unfold in a and northern Italy off ers a vivid technicolour fresco cycle by Giotto. snapshot of the country’s beauty. I Assisi to Florence From Rome’s ancient wonders to Tuscan treasures, a spectacular L 2½ hours Departures every two hours stretch of coastline and romantic lakes, it’s a spellbinding trip. 3 Florence (p94) Continue northwest to Florence to go face to face with celebrated masterpieces: 1 Rome (p34) Brunelleschi’s Duomo cupola, Botticelli’s Spend your first two days in Rome. After Birth of Venus in the Galleria degli Uffizi experiencing Michelangelo’s Sistine and Michelangelo’s David in the Galleria Chapel, summit St Peter’s Basilica, then dell’Accademia. hit the historic centre for Piazza Navona I Florence to Lucca and the Pantheon. Toss a coin into the L 1¼ to 1¾ hours Hourly departures Trevi Fountain and thrill at the sight of the Colosseum. 4 Lucca (p138) I Rome to Assisi From Florence, head to the charming J 3¼ hours Two daily departures walled city of Lucca. Check out the striking Cattedrale di San Martino and join the 2 Assisi (p156) locals for a passeggiata (evening stroll) on Follow the pilgrims to Assisi, the Unesco- the monumental walls. listed home town of St Francis. Navigate I Lucca to Pisa your way to the Basilica di San Francesco, L 30 minutes Half-hourly departures

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From left: Leaning Tower of Pisa and Pisa’s Duomo (p139); Manarola (p153), Cinque Terre

Italian Lakes FRANCESCO RICCA IACOMINO/GETTY IMAGES © Lago A8 Lago di Como Maggiore L 1 hr 1¼ hrs L A7 Milan

L 4½ hrs

L 1¾ hrs Cinque A6 Lucca Terre A4 Florence 1¾ hrs L A5 A3 PisaA L 2½ hrs L30 mins Assisi A2

3¼ hrs J

Rome A1

5 Pisa (p139) 7 Milan (p198) Pisa is a must on anyone’s Tuscan itinerary. Suitably recharged, head across to high- Make a beeline for the Piazza dei Mira- octane Milan, home of the outlandishly coli, where you’ll find the Leaning Tower Gothic Duomo and legendary opera house alongside Pisa’s magnificent Duomo and Teatro alla Scala (La Scala). Make sure cup-cake Battistero. you’re booked to see Leonardo da Vinci’s I Pisa to Cinque Terre (Riomaggiore) The Last Supper. L 1¼ to 1¾ hours Via ; up to 15 daily I Milan to the Italian Lakes departures L To Como 30 minutes to 1 hour at least hourly; to Stresa (Lago Maggiore) 1¼ hours hourly departures 6 Cinque Terre (p144) Italy’s coastal scenery is a sight to behold 8 Italian Lakes (p218) on the Cinque Terre, a glorious stretch of See out your trip with a couple of days coastline punctuated by five picturesque lakeside. Take your pick between the belle villages. This is the place to get in some èpoque charms of Lago Maggiore, or sce- serious walking. nic Lago di Como, hang-out of Hollywood I Riomaggiore to Milan stars and Midas-rich sheiks. L 3¾ to 4½ hours Via Piazza Principe; hourly departures

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Masterpieces Museo del Novecento Fabulous Food Modigliani, de Chirico, Kan- Sistine Chapel More Seafood So fresh you can dinsky, Picasso, Fontana: than just Michelangelo’s eat it raw in Venice and a first-class 20th-century show-stealing ceiling, this Sicily. art museum in modernist world-famous chapel in Milan. (p208 ) Pizza Italy’s most famous Rome also features work by export, but who makes the Villa dei Misteri, Pompeii Botticelli and Ghirlandaio. best: Naples or Rome? (p41) The Dionysiac Frieze in the dining room of this grand Tuscan T-bone Carnivores Galleria degli Uffizi villa is one of the world’s drool over Florence’s bis- Cimabue, Botticelli, da Vinci, largest ancient frescoes. tecca alla fiorentina (T-bone Raphael, Titian: Florence’s (p264) steak), hailing from Tusca- blockbuster art museum de- ny’s prized Val di Chiana. livers a who’s who of artistic Palazzo Grassi The Sicilian specialities Buxom deities. (p104) exceptional contempo- rary collection of French eggplants, juicy raisins, fra- Museo e Galleria Borg billionaire François Pinault grant couscous and velvety hese A perfectly sized serve is showcased against Tadao marzipan – cross- of Renaissance and baroque Ando interior sets in Venice. cultural Sicily puts the masterpieces in an elegant (p171) fusion in Italian cuisine. villa in Rome. (p50 ) Museo Archeologico Gelato Innovative flavours Basilica di San Fran Nazionale Naples’ premier ready for licking at Rome’s cesco See just how Giotto museum showcases one of gelaterie artigianale. revolutionised art with the world’s finest collections Cicheti Venice’s answer to his masterly works in this of ancient Greek and Roman tapas. church in Assisi. (p160 ) art. (p236)

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Currency When to Go Euro (€) Dry climate Language Warm to hot summer, mild winter Warm to hot summer, cold winter Italian

# Mild summer, cold winter # Milan Cold climate Visas GO Dec–Mar (skiing), Venice Jan & Sep GO Feb–Mar & Sep–Nov Generally not required for stays of up to 90 days (or at all for Rome EU nationals); some GO Apr–May, nationalities need a Jul & Nov–Dec # Schengen visa.

Naples GO May–Jun # Money & Sep ATMs at every airport, most train stations and widely available in Palermo towns and cities. Credit GO Sep–Oct # cards accepted in most hotels and restaurants. Mobile Phones Local SIM cards can High Season (Jul–Aug) be used in European, Australian and some  Queues at sights and on the road, especially in August. unlocked US phones.  Prices also rocket for Christmas, New Year and Easter. Other phones must be  Late December to March is high season for skiing. set to roaming. Time Shoulder (Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct) Central European Time  Good deals on accommodation, especially in the south. (GMT/UTC plus one hour)  Spring is best for festivals, fl owers and local produce.  Autumn provides warm weather and the grape harvest. Room Tax Visitors may be Low Season (Nov–Mar) charged an extra €1 to €7 per night ‘room  Prices up to 30% less than in high season. occupancy tax’.  Many sights and hotels closed in country areas.

 A good period for cultural events in large cities.

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