ISSN 2253-3826 NEW ZEALAND SEA CANOEIST

The Journal of the Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers (NZ) Inc - KASK

No. 184 August - September 2016

New Zealand Sea Canoeist INDEX EDITORIAL As our government has been unwill- EDITORIAL p. 3 Lynn Paterson – Around NZ ing to change the rules re compulsory Lynn paddled into New Plymouth wearing of PFDs in recreational craft Letters to the Editor harbour on 30 September, and must under 6 metres, the regional councils from Alan Miller p. 5 have been rather pleased to have left have introduced their own rules, with the South Taranaki Bight astern. the Waikato Regional Council lead- TECHNICAL ing the way. The exemption clause in Making Cockpit Covers As Lynn commenced her New Zea- the ECan review was way out of step by David Winkworth p. 5 land circumnavigation from Taka- with the members of the Safer Boat- puna (Auckland) on 27 September ing Forum and MNZ. Sea Deck Carries 2015, she has now spent over a year by David Winkworth p.18 steadfastly working towards her goal On 2 May, I provided a four-page of being the first paddler to com- submission to ECan, including the NEW ZEALAND TRIP REPORTS plete a continuous around the statistics for paddlecraft fatalities Lake Waipapa and the Kopuatai Peat North, South and Stewart islands. when PFDs were not worn, and Dome - Waikato asked for the PFD exemption clause by John Gumbley p. 6 Since both Tara Mulvany and I both to be deleted. On 5 July, KASK com- Waikato Safe Vehicle Parking had a hard time with weather and mittee member Ian McKenzie spoke by Evan Pugh p. 19 sea conditions in the South Taranaki in support of the KASK submission Redz NZ Journey - A Paddle around Bight, I view this section of coast as at an ECan submission hearing. Fi- Te Waipounamu. The South and one of the big cruxes of a North Is- nally on 26 September, Ian emailed Stewart Island Circurcnavigations land circuit. with good news: by Lynn Paterson p. 9 By Lynn’s calculations, she has only We have had regard to the officers’ HEALTH 10 days to reach Takapuna. recommendation, and reasons for not supporting the submissions A Two-Week First Aid Course! Why? Still ahead of her on the North Is- land’s west coast are those vast har- of KASK and Waikato Regional by John Kirk-Anderson p. 8 Council. However in this instance bour entrances of the Manukau and we do not agree with the officers that OVERSEAS REPORTS Kaipara, and that long surf (no land- exemption subclause 5(2)(c) should Niue Record ings) barrier of 90 Mile Beach before be retained. We agree with KASK by Nathan Fa’avae p.12 she rounds Cape Reinga. After that, and Waikato Regional Council that the milk run south to Takapuna. this exemption subclause should Kayaking in the Kakai Area be deleted. North of Vancouver Island, BC I asked Lynn for her retrospective by Margot Syms p.14 view of her circuits of the South and At the Safer Boating Forum hosted Stewart islands (see page 9). by MNZ in Wellington 28 Septem- EQUIPMENT REVIEW ber, I heard that similar navigation Sharkskin Tops Canterbury Regional Council bylaw reviews are underway in Bay by Andrew McMullen p.20 Navigation Safety Bylaw of Plenty and Hawkes Bay. If lo- 2016 Review cal paddlers have any issues with THE ‘BUGGER!’ FILE Earlier this year I noted a proposed safety bylaws and need support from Training for the Olympics review of the Environment Canter- KASK, please get in touch. by John Flemming p. 8 bury (ECan) navigation bylaws, and Kerikeri Low Tide Mud Bath was disappointed to see a clause on Safer Boating Forum by Lynnis Burson p.20 the wearing of a personal floatation KASK is a member of the NZ Safer device (PFD) with a listing exemp- Boating Forum and also a data col- HUMOUR p.21 tions including: ‘persons on board lection sub-group. The latter looks at a recreational craft that is less than how organizations are capturing rec- Editing and layout: Paul Caffyn 6 metres in length and which is reational boating incident data, shar- Proofing: Kay Costley propelled solely by oars or ing the information, listing research Deadline for next magazine: when the vessel is underway….’ data and reports. 25 November 2016

COVER: Not a bad day for which 40 knot winds and heavy rain were forecast. The subtle hint of a rainbow in the background whilst paddling along the main channel of the Kopuatai wetland. See story on page 6. Photo: Dennis Hynes. Top Left: Helen McMullen and John Gumbley at the rapid that marks the furthest extent of a side paddle up the Waipapa River. Photo: Dennis Hynes Lower Left: Rex Barlow branching out in the Kopuatai Wetland. Photo: Dennis Hynes

3 No. 184 August - September 2016

A report titled ‘Summary of Recrea- regular paddler, kayaking across the With Margot and Peter Sym’s article tional Boating Research conducted harbour to the CG building at West- and photos on paddling the waters and by Research NZ September 2016’ haven Marina. He has been a great islands north of Vancouver Island, it was presented. It compared surveys support for KASK with paddlecraft is no wonder so many Kiwi paddlers undertaken in June/July of 2013/14 issues. Lindsay Sturt is also stepping head over to British Columbia during and that undertaken in March-April down as 2IC of MNZ after some- our winter. 2016. Only households with a land- thing like 41 years as a public serv- line were surveyed. ant. Lindsay has always responded Dave Winkworth, our regular corre- promptly to KASK queries re recre- spondent from Aussie, has provided owned showed a small in- ational boating issues, and always a two meaty articles. His deck carry crease in numbers to 328,484. Given supporter for KASK. Both Neil and technique hopefully is never required, the fact that the questions asked did Lindsay will be missed by the rec- as it is only necessary in the event of not take into account whether owners reational boating community. a sinking or broken kayak. had more than one vessel, the num- ber of paddlecraft owned in NZ must Thanks Dave’s cockpit cover article details be way higher, given most of us own To all the contributors for an excellent how to build your own. Back in the more than one kayak, and some of us mix of paddling reports, technical tips dark ages, I used the shoulder straps have up to 10 kayaks! and a couple of paddling misadven- of my sprayskirt to seal it over the tures (The ‘Bugger!’ file). cockpit coaming at night, but now a This September 2016 forum marked cockpit cover is just part of my es- the last meeting for Neil Murray who Special thanks to Dennis Hynes for his sential paddling kit. is retiring as head of Coastguard superb photos which grace the cover Boating Education. Neil has been a and page 2. There are so many reasons for using a cockpit cover when your kayak is not on the water; keeping rain and KASK Committee 2016 - 2017 sandflies out when in Fiordland, keep- ing nasty creepy, crawly creatures out Tim Muhundan - President email: [email protected] when in tropical Queensland, keeping Ian McKenzie - Committee email: [email protected] your PFD safe from keas and wekas, Sandy Ferguson - Webmaster email: [email protected] and minimizing wind resistance when Paul Caffyn - Publications email: [email protected] the kayak is on the car’s roof racks. Lois Cowan - Committee email: [email protected] David Welch - Commitee email: [email protected] Keep safe on the water this spring KASK Administrator (Karen Grant) email: [email protected] Paul Caffyn

KASK Kayak Fest 2017 Ponui Island, Hauraki Gulf 3 - 5 March 2017

With an emphasis on paddling skill devel- opment, this is an opportunity for paddlers with differing skills to ‘rub shoulders’ with legends and “take their paddling to another level”. The registration fee is $280. Visit the event link for more information and program outline: http://goo.gl/8XiQvl Register here: http://goo.gl/GwpUAx Contact the Kayak Fest event team by Secure your spot at this exciting event. email: [email protected] We are 80% full!

4 New Zealand Sea Canoeist

Using a marker pen, mark the outer Letter to the edge of the coaming on the plastic sheet. Also make marks at both the Editor centre back and front of the cockpit coaming. No 183 Cockpit Covers and Cold Weather Kit Take the plastic sheet off cockpit, add 6 cms all around your marker pen line and cut the plastic all around I’m really enjoying reading the on the new outer line. Place plastic KASK journals, especially the lat- over the inside of your cockpit cover est one - well done on such excellent material and draw right around it and informative publications. with the marker pen. Also transfer the front and back marks. Two actions I am undertaking as a result of reading the latest: Mark 6 cms in from the edge, all around, and draw a line. Make sure - double check winter cold water that the front and back marks will be paddling clothes for suitability and visible after stitching. carry more spares Use dressmaking pins to fold and se- - purchase cockpit covers for all cure the outer edge into the 6 cm mark. of my eight kayaks stored below There will be some puckering as you my deck! go around tight corners - that’s OK. Stitch around fabric close to the edge cheers, Allan Miller to leave a good tube for the shock- Christchurch The Nordkapp closest to the camera cord. Leave open a 10 cm section at has a yellow cockpit cover in place. the back to feed the shockcord in. TECHNICAL that you can do half of it and adjust Stitch in a loop of webbing at the tension before doing the last bit. Test front on the inside - DO NOT block fit your cover, making sure to leave the tube for the cord. Making Cockpit Covers the webbing loop out! by Dave Winkworth Burn one end of the shockcord to When you’re happy, finish the knot, seal the end. Hook on the safety cut and burn the ends and stitch the Re making cockpit covers - some pin and feed it through all the way opening shut. Transfer the marker points that may help you. Anyway, around. You sort of ‘concertina’ it up pen mark for the rear centre onto the this is what I do: to get it to feed. You’ll work it out! top of the cover - this is the piece you’ll hook on first when fitting the You need the following: Best knot is a ‘Fisherman’s Knot’ to cover. Now you’re done. - a sewing machine or someone who join the shockcord. Google up an im- can sew it for you. Use standard age of it and have a practice. Good Tell the possums to nick off! polyester thread point about this knot in shockcord is cheers, Dave - piece of plastic sheet larger than the cockpit, preferably transparent Types of cockpit covers used; from left Reed Chillcheater fuzzy but certainly not black rubber (www.chillcheater.com), yellow ripstop nylon with folded - long piece of 4 mm shockcord. black tape carrying shockcord, black canvas or duck fabric. - piece of nylon material, old tent fly or similar, at least 10 cms larger than the cockpit opening all around. I use some fabric which has a rub- berised coating on one side - a 20 cm length of 20 mm webbing or similar - a large safety pin.

Knot a loop in the shockcord, spread the plastic over the cockpit opening and secure with the shockcord under the coaming. Pull the plastic as tight as you can to remove creases etc.

5 No. 184 August - September 2016

gers from those that hadn’t thought Waipapa, the water level can fluctuate NEW ZEALAND to bring their pogies along. by metres in a short space of time, as demonstrated in the war stories of kay- TRIP REPORTS The reward for early frosty starts on aks drifting away when paddlers stop these Waikato Lakes is the wispy for a comfort stop. A reminder that it Lake Waipapa mist rising from perfectly still waters makes sense to have a bowline to se- by Dennis Hynes creating magical reflections. This cure your kayak whenever you stop. day was no exception. see also Dennis’s photo on p.2 Access to the lake is from the boat Because the hydro lakes are formed ramp on Waipapa Road, half a kilo- Lake Waipapa is one of the smaller from drowned valleys, shallow beach- metre south of the dam. Parking at hydro lakes on the Waikato River, es for easy haul-out can be few and the ramp is limited, but there is plen- sandwiched in between Lake Marae- far between. The steep sides of Lake ty on the other side of the road a cou- tai and Lake Arapuni. With bush Waipapa make it even more challeng- ple of hundred metres up the road. down to the waterline for the whole ing with a large group. There is a spot length, high, sheer multi-patterned on the true right bank a couple of kms Kopuatai Peat Dome bluffs with hardy growth clinging downstream from the dams to haul and Wetlands to any crevice, it is also one of the out for a lunch stop, albeit with a fair most picturesque. Toss in the magi- see also Dennis’s photos bit of team work assisting each other on the cover and on p.2 cal paddle up the Waipapa River and to exit. Then renter the kayaks from the two Maraeitai dams, stark, im- a crumbling bench from deep water. pressive, concrete structures tower- Just because the forecast is for 40 Even better, it can be bathed in the af- knots and heavy rain, it doesn’t mean ing above the kayakers at the top of ternoon sunlight. the lake and it makes a great paddle, you can’t go kayaking. Just means a little more thought is required to find accessible to most paddlers, in most The last couple of kilometres to the weathers. Less than 20 kms all up. a spot out of the wind. A visit to the dams can be a bit of a grind into the Kopuatai peat dome and wetlands on current, depending upon how much the Hauraki Plains is just the ticket. It was a very cold frosty start for the water is being spilled. Worth the effort 11 paddlers who turned up for the to sit below these impressive struc- ‘The Kopuatai Peat Dome is part of recent BASK club trip on the lake. tures, highlighted by the afternoon sun. Lots of grumbling about frozen fin- an internationally recognised wet- Because of the small size of Lake land area situated between Awaiti The Kopuatai Peat Dome & Wetland - map courtesy Environment Waikato

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of the river. A short 20 metre drag of with fleets of decoy ducks floating in your kayak over the weir stopbank front. If you listen out, you are likely gives access to the main channel of to hear the loud booming call of the the wetland. bittern, or even spot one if you are quiet and observant. On the way, it is worthwhile visiting one of the hunting ‘lodges’ along- From the southern end of the main side the river on the true right bank channel, a 500 metre along of the Piako River. Some of these a four-wheel drive track brings you One of the two Maraeitai Dans unofficial dwellings are substantial, back into the Piako River a couple Road and State Highway 27 on the semi-permanent structures cobbled of kilometres downstream from the Hauraki Plains. The peat is derived together from any imaginable recy- boat ramp. Or if you haven’t brought from the remains of plants that used clable building material. They bear your wheels, you can paddle back to live in the peat bog that has been testimony, more to epic sessions of the way you came from the weir. accumulating over 11,000 years and drinking and storytelling than suc- is now up to 14 metres deep. The cessful hunting. Paradise for a Kiwi All in all, a very different but very wetland area is made up of peatland bloke looking to escape the missus enjoyable paddle on a day when all and mineralised wetland. The peat- for the weekend. other kayaking would have been land is acidic and low in nutrients called off. with a hydrological regime dominat- Once into the wetland, follow the ed by rainfall. In contrast, the min- main channel heading due south. Note this paddle is a no go during the eralized areas bounding the bog’s Be sure to paddle up the side arms summer (low water levels and algal western margins are influenced by branching off from the main channel. smell) nor during the duck shooting nutrient enrichment from the Piako Each side arm leads to a large open season (April to July inclusive) and Waitoa rivers. The wetlands play pond, dotted with maimai and often an important role in flood control and protection by providing storage More Background Information on the Peat Dome: for floodwater from the Piako and from Sandy Ferguson: on 28 September 1944, a Corsair aircraft crash landed Waitoa catchments’. on the peat dome when ‘a collision with a willow tree knocked out ignition leads, causing engine failure’. A flare set light to the peat. The peat dome, as its name sug- gests, sits a few metres above the from John Gumbley: about four to five years ago, I spoke to the Ngatea Lions surrounding farmland, and as such Club and an elderly gentleman spoke to me after the presentation explain- can’t be traversed by kayak. How- ing as a schoolboy he retrieved pieces of an aircraft which had crashed into ever the mineralized wetland on the the peat dome. The plane clipped the top of a stand of kahikatea trees in the western margin, administered by south-west corner of the Kopuatai peat dome and crashed a few kilometres DoC, has canals and ponds among northward in an area of peat east of the Flax Block which is located midway the grass and willow, creating habitat along the peat dome. I heard the place was used for low level bombing run for ducks and other wetland species, practice. Access is difficult and the area challenging - two SAS soldiers died including teals, bitterns, crakes, rails on an exercise several years ago. and fernbirds. Predator trapping is carried out to control stoats, ferrets Ironically the aircraft fire would have perhaps done a favour to the highly and possums. threatened plants in the area, namely orchids. They naturally rely on occa- sional fires from lightning strikes to burn shrubland vegetation to enable the The 16 ponds are connected by a grid (orchid) seed bank to again flourish without the shading of taller vegetation. of channels making for a unique kay- aking experience, offering kayakers The Flax Block itself is a highly modified part of the dome and forms what is access to a magical flooded forest, known as a mineralised swamp. The peat dome itself is fascinating in that the well protected from high winds. predominant rushland vegetation (Empodisma minor and Sporodanthus fer- riginous) fluctuates in level seasonally by 30 cms and daily (at 11:00 am) the Access to the wetland is via the Piako peat dome shrinks 4 cms in height as gas in the plant root nodules is released, River. Put in at the boat ramp at the they then build up overnight - its about minimising evaporation loss. end of Maukoro Landing Road, off SH27, about four kilometres south Incidentally the top of the dome is 8 metres above the level of farmland on of Patetonga. A leisurely seven kilo- the peat domes margins. This is a reflection of both peat growing at a rate of metre paddle downstream brings you 1 mm a year forming the dome feature (and its own water table - note at its to a weir on the true left riverbank. thickest the peat is 14 metres thick - do the math to figure its age) but also Once farmland appears on the left farmed peatland in the Waikato is shrinking (in height) an average 2.5 cms/ bank you’ve gone too far unless you annum. In droughts e.g., 2008 and 2012, some vulnerable areas shrunk 30 want to check out the tracks that lead cms in one year (ie., 300 years of natural growth) due to excessive drainage to huts and ponds on the eastern side and associated lowering of the water table, all of which is irrecoverable.

7 No. 184 August - September 2016

or former NOLS instructors, but trained to do I wouldn’t do in the ci- HEALTH there was also a glaciologist from vilian environment, and much of the Australia (!) who had been a member equipment I have used I don’t have of the German Army Special Forces, access to. ‘A Two-Week First Aid and an Emergency Medicine Physi- Course! Why?’ cian who was keeping his WFR cur- As David pointed out, most prudent by John Kirk-Anderson rent to meet requirements for volun- people who recreate in the outdoors teer work he did in the US. deal with little more than cuts, bruis- That was a common response to es and sprains/strains. If you’re reg- people hearing about the Wilderness David did a great job of covering off ularly dealing with much more than First Responder (WFR) course, run what he needed to, while keeping the that, you’re a ski patroller, or you by the Wilderness Medicine Institute very disparate backgrounds, and war need to seriously look at your lead- (WMI), part of the US-based Na- stories, under control. A very expe- ership/risk management! tional Outdoors Leadership School rienced outdoor instructor, he also (NOLS). worked as an emergency department John Kirk Anderson nurse in a Portland, Oregon hospital. Their website describes it as ‘... rec- ommended for anyone who works A lot of emphasis was placed on their or recreates in the outdoors or in Patient Assessment System (PAS) other austere environments. If you and if indicated, a Focussed Spinal travel in areas where access to medi- Assessment (FSA). cal care is delayed (>8 hours) or Takeaways for me: communication is unreliable, this 1 – ‘First Five’, part of the PAS. course is for you. Students who - one, I’m Number One. (Personal would benefit from taking a WFR and scene safety) may include professional guides, trip - two, What happened to you? leaders, SAR teams, international (Mechanism of injury, witnesses) travelers, and outdoor recreation- - three, None on me. (Body fluids, ists.’ gloves etc.) - four, Any more? (Number of In NZ, the 40-hour Pre-Hospital casualties) Emergency Care (PHEC) course has - five, How alive? (Level of Re- become the default first aid course sponse) The ‘Bugger! File for outdoor instructors. This course is offered by several providers, and 2 - David’s ‘Religion of Blister from John Flemming while covering basically the same Treatment’, which was a very Rotorua Octagenarian Paddler curriculum, more emphasis is ap- funny look at the various beliefs plied in differing areas. Over the on dealing with blisters, and how I’ve had a bit of an upset and am years I have taken several PHEC people were often devout on their slightly restricted. I was practic- courses or revalidations. preferred methods. ing my backward dives about three weeks ago in preparation for the NOLS, which has a campus near 3 - The simple classification of mus- Olympics, whilst descending my in- Nelson, bought an instructor in from culoskeletal injuries into ‘usable’ ternal stairs, but didn’t allow for the the US to run a bridge course for and ‘unusable’. If usable, manage landing bit and have broken two ver- those who held a PHEC qualification and continue with the trip, if unus- tebra in my spine and chipped a neck and wanted the internationally-rec- able, evacuate. Leave a diagnosis bone in the neck’s boney bits. Am ognized WFR. This took 40 hours, to doctors. tethered up in a neck brace for anoth- and confirmed the skills and knowl- er three weeks and consider myself edge from the PHEC, and then added 4 – ‘Stay or Go. If Go, Fast or Slow’. very, very, very lucky. At least I can their procedures and protocols. On The decision that has to be made move MOST of my body, as it sure this course there were seven people, when considering how serious an could have been much worse. five of whom were instructors from injury is. the Outward Bound School at Anak- I can get a wee laugh at it now, but iwa. There was also one cave guide, Compared with other first aid train- wasn’t at all impressed with lying in and me. ing I have done, from my time in a bloodied heap, jammed up against the army, as an Outdoor First Aid the door at the bottom. I wasn’t much To add to the challenge for David, instructor with the Mountain Safety impressed at all. the instructor, after the first two days Council, and various PHEC cours- we were joined by a further eight es, this training was sometimes at a Anyway Paul, life is pretty quiet for students who were revalidating their ‘lower level’, but it was absolutely me now, and for a while into the fu- WFR. They were nearly all current practical. Many of the things I have ture. Keep the funnies coming.

8 New Zealand Sea Canoeist

NEW ZEALAND TRIP REPORTS

Redz NZ Journey kind and calm to me. There were no A Paddle around horror stories about that patch of wa- Te Waipounamu ter – apart from my nerves causing me not to check my GPS tracking The South and Stewart device with the result that I paddled Island Circumnavigations about 7 kms more than I needed to do – a salutary lesson to be learned! by Lynn Patterson Gerry Maire was the man who met me at Whites Bay. That Christmas On December 24, 2015, I leave the Eve was epic and will stay with me shores of the North Island at 2:30 forever and will doubtless be retold am on the next section of my jour- again and again in the years to come ney with a crossing of Cook Strait. Officially, I reach Perano Head, just All along the East Coast of the South a little way north of the mouth of Island, there were some very treas- Tory Channel, at exactly 7:00 am. ured moments for it is, indeed, a My South Island journey is about to beautiful coastline - from the Hec- begin. tor’s dolphins and the sandy beaches to the rough rock wall and the dump- Lynn attempting a breakout through To start this morning, the ocean is ing coastlines - it had them all. West Coast surf, just north of the calm and welcoming. But, then, the Nile River mouth, near Charleston. waters become a little bit crazy for On New Year’s Day, while most oth- Photo: Nat Frew several kilometres as I cross Tory er people would have been nursing Channel itself. In hindsight, the wa- a hangover, I set out for a big day of The Catlins and the Nuggets were ter conditions are nothing compared paddling from Kaikoura to Gore Bay absolutely incredible and, once out to what I’ve already been up against that proved to be another memorable on the water down that part of the and what I’m about to go through. occasion. For an unbelievable three coastline, the Hector’s dolphins hours that day, I was accompanied came out to play again. There were How do I sum up this epic paddle? by a pod of Hector’s dolphins. It was some wonderfully long days, includ- All I could do was think about each magical and so much fun that I felt ing paddling into Bluff at the bot- day as it arrived - nothing more. truly blessed that day. Already I had tom of the South Island, when I felt Others who had been there before felt the warmth of the South Island I needed to pinch myself. ‘Wow,’ me insisted on telling me about weather and of its people. As I ven- I thought, ‘Red you have actually every inch of the coastline in intri- tured further south, the spectacular made it!’ cate detail, sharing their scary sto- scenery quite simply blew my mind ries, their near-death experiences. and senses. Banks Peninsula I loved I began to wonder when it was go- As always, there were the continuing and, when I had the time, I would ing to get tougher. But I could ‘what if’s’? But, as everyone is well paddle every single bay. Each and never have imagined just how tough aware, it’s different for each person every location I pulled into, was spe- - either mentally or physically! I who paddles. Each day, each beach, cial in its own right, the calmness of couldn’t decide which would be uniquely personal experiences. the inner bays being relaxing com- worse. Then, being close to Stewart pared to the roughness of the outer Island, came big decision time. There I found the best way for me was to waters. were so many stories being offered, live in the moment, to try really hard so many heads being shaken when not to absorb too many of the ‘what Yes, of course there were difficult I mentioned that I wanted to paddle ifs?’ - otherwise my brain would sections south of the peninsula - es- around Stewart Island as well. In the most certainly have exploded! I have pecially the long stone beaches, the end, after much research and talking many fond memories, only a few of river mouth arrivals and my far from with the local fishermen, I did what which I have revisited while writing perfect entrances into them! There only a handful of people knew was this recap, such as arriving in Whites were sections of the coastline where going to happen - I ‘gapped it’ across Bay on Christmas Eve and seeing a I could talk to Nat (my on-shore Foveaux Strait. It was one huge pad- familiar face waving to me. This was companion and invaluable back- dle day from Bluff to Mason Bay, after paddling the Cook Strait when up person) but there were places but it proved to be well worth the the sheer fear of anticipation had we couldn’t actually see each other effort, as well as being the start of nearly had me vomiting at the start. and some of those beaches had me my going solo with no support crew. But, in reality, Cook Strait was very frowning in frustration. Solo I may have been, but what an

9 No. 184 August - September 2016 incredible place to visit - raw, rough every nook and cranny she could and dynamic, that’s the west coast of find. Only for a moment did I dwell Stewart Island! on what a mind-blowingly, huge es- capade lay ahead of me. But, then, I I spent a few days in Doughboy Bay, had to pull my thoughts back to the a time when many must have held day in hand. One day at a time. their collective breath for me. Only later did I discover that some kayak- Not once did I add up the actual ers had only got that far and then had number of days I spent in Fiordland to wait so long that a helicopter ride as I waited for a weather window seemed the only way off the island. to head further north. Not once did But I was lucky, having spent only I count in my head how long it was three days there. Then I was back taking me to travel the length and on the water to do some more, great breadth of Fiordland. But I abso- paddling. There were some fantastic lutely LOVED it! Everything about sights - far more fantastic than any that section was so memorable but camera could ever capture. I still lack very hard for me to put into descrip- sufficient words to describe some of tive words. Each of the sounds had the more memorable moments - both a new feeling, a new energy and my on and off the water. emotions and senses were set on fire. Incredible, majestic, eye-opening.. Lynn after safely crossing the Grey Port Pegasus and Oban (Halfmoon And, yes, there were millions of sand River bar on 28 April. Nat Frew at Bay) were both truly amazing and flies! Yes, they can be very annoy- the bow. Photo: Paul Caffyn much more time was needed to fully ing. But I had to get over that and a very beautiful beach. My first re- appreciate what beautiful locations learn to enjoy their company. Look- quest was – yes, you’ve guessed it they are. All I can say is that you must ing back, they are just another part of – chips! Hot, salty, deep-fried and make a point of visiting them. Even that amazing, breath-taking world. incredibly tasty. on a wet and rainy day, Stewart Island is a very special place with its own at- The storms were intense but my tent Then it was time for a face-off with mosphere and personality. It has left and double fly sheets worked so well the West Coast sections. Some time its mark on me for life and the mere that never once did I or my belong- was spent with Paul Caffyn on the thought of it still makes me smile. ings get wet. What I recall vividly is West Coast, taking up with his say- the very special landscape, the his- ing ‘much sucking of teeth’. Paul, But back to Bluff, back to focus on tory, the untouched raw sights, the I was humbled by your generosity the next section; to plan for a solo sounds, the rain, the waterfalls, the and loved your humour. Then it was section up and into Fiordland. For crashing waves at the entrances to back to surf beaches, back to facing example, I have to imagine how long the sounds, watching the weather off against Mother Nature, back to it will actually take me. Trying to patterns and the brilliant, dazzling being slapped by salty waves and plan for that was one of the hardest sunshine. It was, and is, one of the lots of heaving, foaming water, back things to do because there were so most amazing, magical and enchant- to heart-pounding departures and many unknowns. It was impossible ing places in New Zealand. heavy landings - one of them leading to know the best places in which to to the sad demise of T2. The Heaphy plan food drops – closer or further I have a story from each stopover. I Track, she tormented me a lot. away? In retrospect, the names of have such huge, happy memories of the places all seem to blur. Any- every person along this section and When I was halted south of West- way, we tried our best to plan and to have to thank them all for making haven Inlet for an entire month, I be- pack for every eventuality. I became me smile on a daily basis. I’m afraid gan to think that maybe that was that. more and more silent as D-Day – to name any one more than others No paddling north until a break in my departure from Monkey Island in case I miss someone out. I was the winter weather allowed me a safe (in Te Waewae Bay) loomed closer. touched by the Southland commu- departure at last and a few wonder- How can I even begin to describe nity and can only say A VERY BIG ful bluebird days. Before I got past my thoughts and my feelings at that THANK YOU! As I write this, the Farewell Spit, I had one more adren- time? When could I possibly hope to memories make me smile. Each and alin -smashing beach launch. Then it see my back-up team again? every one of you, in your own spe- was up the beautiful coast to the base cial way, made it the best. of Farewell Spit. I was happy, happy, Into the solo world I headed, with happy, as I greeted my partner Jase every spare space jam-packed full Forty-five days later, I paddled into on the beach. It was an incredible of food including my precious pota- Jackson Bay, grinning from ear to feeling. We sat in the shelter of the toes and kumara. I will never forget ear. Nat was on the beach, jumping sand dunes that early evening, eating the push-off by Nat as she insisted about - partly because of the sand- a packet of chippies and drinking a on jamming even more potatoes into flies but also seeing me arriving on hot cuppa from the thermos he had

10 New Zealand Sea Canoeist brought with him. Then, only one Everything in the South Island end- day later, I walked to the beach in ed up as beautifully as it started out. the freezing cold of the morning, to The whole experience has been in- set off in an attempt to get around the credible and a huge part of me is sad tip. The Spit and I finally farewelled that part of my journey is now over. each other, and I also said my ‘good- What a way to see the sights of the byes’ to the amazing community of South Island! What started out as a Kaihoka and the surrounding areas paddling journey has now be-come (Takaka and Golden Bay). more of an odyssey, with my life having become almost that of a no- Then it was on to Separation Point. mad. On the way, I have been met I stopped and said a special ‘Hi!’ to with nothing but generosity from the this great spiritual place with many most incredible people and they, in indelible memories. Soon it was time turn, have become part of my story for a big fire on a very cold night together with all the amazing sights with a star-studded sky at Totaranui, and sounds. the 4,000 km mark having at last been achieved. I should mention here The emotions I have experienced on that the DoC campsites are magnifi- this trip are unbelievable - way more cent and we almost wished that the than I can even begin to describe; weather would continue blowing so feelings from way deep inside me we could stay on a little longer. But that most people won’t even be able we also knew that I had to get out on to start to understand - no matter the water whenever possible, so this Lynn trying out a Nordkapp with a how hard I try to describe it to them part of the journey flew past way too magic day on Lake Brunner verbally, more than I ever believed quickly. possible. It was the people I met who flourish of my paddle and grinning have been the icing on this incred- The crossing of Tasman Bay from from ear to ear, I skimmed into the ible, delicious cake. It is the most Kaiteriteri to Pepin Island was un- DoC campsite on the other side of amazing life gifts and friendships I pleasant to say the least - poor vis- the pass, into beautiful Elmslie Bay. have made. I will need to get back ibility, rain for the entire day, south- We both fell in love with this little into Cuzzie and keep driving around west winds and swell not to mention bay but sadly no time to stop for a saying “Hi!” at least one more time the necessity of having to dodge five day or two the night was more about and reflect again as I go! container ships. This left me men- getting me ready for the final push tally drained and, with no food or back to Tory Channel in what proved On August 17, I paddle in and along liquids taken on this crossing, I had to be a good day on the water. Tory Channel. I have no stress or a mental melt-down that stopped me cares today. With a headwind and a in my tracks at Pepin Island. Well, to On August 16, off I set with tears mostly outgoing tide, I also take my be honest, it was actually the support rolling down my face. After all, time. This place is so pretty. This crew who stopped me from going this could be it! As I got closer to place, even with so many different any further. I was disgruntled and Queen Charlotte Sound, I harboured types of craft whizzing about, has angry at my own stupidity and that a small glimmer of hope in my heart something very special about it. I signalled the end of my day. that maybe - just maybe - Aotearoa could very easily return here to live, was giving me a precious weather to hide away from the rest of the We were forced to wait another day gift. So I said a big ‘thank you!’ and world. or two for better weather before pro- gapped it on the outside of Arapawa ceeding on the next leg of my jour- Island, past Perano Head and into I have to say thank you, Te Waipou- ney up to and through French Pass. Tory Channel. namu. Thank you for a very special How hard I had studied this particu- time in a very special part of the lar passage of water; how attentively There was a picture perfect sunset world. You are so beautiful in so I had listened to the locals, hearing and my South Island trip was com- many ways. This redhead has total not only countless tales of paddling plete. No pavlova in my face (like respect for you! What a crazy incred- mishaps but also, in apparent con- so many others who have completed ible dream! tradiction, how simple it was to pass this circumnavigation) but, rather, a through on a slack tide, tucked be- wonderful welcome from the lovely As Paul Caffyn said, “You are now neath the cliffs. people at Whekenui Bay as I pulled the oldest female to paddle around up on their beach intending to camp the South Island, and the first red- In the event, I had to wait patiently there for the night. Instead, I was head ever to do so.” for Jase to clamber up from the given the use of a lovely little farm beach to the viewing platform to cottage overnight and a delicious Thanks Paul. take my picture. Then, with a huge seafood gumbo for dinner.

11 No. 184 August - September 2016 OVERSEAS REPORTS

Niue is rugged - there are very few We’d spent a few days testing the Niue Kayak Record launching and landing places, but new inflatable and flew by Nathan Fa’avae once on the water it’s amazing. to Niue with a Gumotex Seawave. It When I started talking about kayak- was a great vessel but not fast com- June 7 2016, in celebration of World ing around the island to explore the pared to the ocean surf skis that we’re Oceans Day, my adventure racing feasibility of a race, the majority of used to, or even the Arctic Raiders team mate Sophie Hart and I etched people on the island didn’t think it and Nordkapps that we sea kayak our names in a little bit of kayak his- could be done. Not because of the in. We decided that averaging about tory by being the first people to cir- distance so much, but more because 7 - 8 km/hr would be realistic, given cumnavigate Niue by sea kayak. the east side of the island is regularly the winds, swells and currents. With exposed to the trade winds, crashing that in mind and adding in some time The idea to paddle around Niue swells and nowhere to land or shel- for unknown circumstances, we pre- started to form when I was there on ter. It demands respect. That said, pared ourselves for a 12 to 13 hour a work trip in April. I was employed there are calm days typically through day. There were 12 hours of daylight by the Niuean Government to do a July to November. so we needed to be on the water at review of their events strategy and sunrise and have night lights, should advise on their adventure tourism With the backing from Niue Tourism we still be out after sunset. industry. to attempt the circumnavigation I called upon Adventure Racing team- I was quite nervous in the hours pre- Travelling to Niue Island in April mate Sophie Hart to join me for the ceding the paddle. I’d said it could with my family for the Junior Rock- challenge. be done and a number of people had man, a kid’s triathlon with a differ- backed me on the idea, Niue Tour- ence, ‘swim, run & play’, I returned Sophie had said she was keen for a ism, Gumotex, the local support boat again in May for the Rockman Of- paddling mission and we’re used to and of course Sophie. It felt like the froad Triathlon and again in early paddling together long distances in stakes were a bit higher than a nor- June for two biking events run on the racing, so she was an obvious choice mal sea kayak adventure - it was Island, the ‘Rally of the Rock’, a fie of partner - we always paddle well in reality, a sponsored expedition. stage 40 km off-road event and the together and I thought it was impor- The weather wasn’t making it easy ‘Around the Rock’, a one day 65 km tant for a woman to be on the trip, for us, which I was actually pleased bike race around the island. it served to inspire local women to about as I didn’t want to paddle in what is possible. perfect conditions, but I did want to During my first visit to the island I succeed, and safely. became convinced that a water-based We spent three days paddling from event would be an ideal addition to Avatele Beach where we could ac- the events on offer. The waters of cess the exposed eastern shores Niue are incredible, the island pops quickly. Our plan was to depart from up out of the deep ocean, the water Avatele and get as much of the east depth rapidly drops to about 600 me- coast completed while the weather tres and then down to around 3000 was more settled, typically the morn- metres. The clarity is exceptionally ings were calmer for a few hours af- unique. I think the ocean there is be- ter sunrise. Before we could get on ing under utilized - it’s an untapped the water for the serious attempt, we resource. spent a day racing bikes in the Rally of the Rock event. This event saw 31 In talks with the Tourism Depart- participants complete eight individ- ment, I encouraged them to explore ual time trails on bush tracks mainly the possibility of running some in the interior of the island. The route ocean paddling events and they were traversed the country from north to very open to these ideas. While it’s south. an incredible destination for sea kay- aking, it’s extremely well suited to We then turned our attention to the ocean surf skis. paddle challenge and monitoring the forecasts, the pattern was clear, three The obvious paddle event is around metre swells and 20 knot winds. A lo- the Island, the whole country, it’s cal fishing charter boat was arranged 70 kms so probably on the limit of as a support vessel to accompany. In distance for a one day race, but it’d fact, we were required by the gov- Nathan and Sophie with a good be epic in every sense of the word. ernment to have the safety boat. following sea off the coast of Niue

12 New Zealand Sea Canoeist

Sophie and Nathan, on a big ocean, heavy ground swell and paddling a very small inflatable kayak.

Going anticlockwise around the is- many questions in the air as to if it really quick time down the island. land, at 6:00 am we launched from was possible in rough seas. My vi- When we rounded the most eastern Avatele Beach. It was only a 10 min- sion for a paddling event would be point and had ocean downwind of ute paddle to the first headland where , SUP and , all of us, instead of unapproachable rocky we could expect to get into the big- which will attract paddlers who want coast we could breathe easier and en- ger seas. We’d paddled that stretch a varied conditions, so it was impor- joy the paddling more. We were over few times so we knew what to expect tant to do the trial paddle in rough the worst of it. but it was intimidating water, the seas. swells were big and the waves crash- Rounding the northern end into shel- ing into land were thunderous, the I’ll admit I was nervous heading tered waters was amazing, the sense wave clapotis and refraction along out into the open waters even with of relief and the scenery was majes- the coast there was impressive, the a support boat in the vicinity. There tic, incredible colours of water, coral most diverse I’ve seen anywhere. were a lot of unknowns and there walls, vegetation and sun bright- But we knew if we punched out 1-2 are always sudden weather events ened skies, breath taking. We’d been kms from land, it’d tidy up. Our sup- or rouge waves in turbulent waters through some sections where the port boat arrived on the scene as we as we were in. We also didn’t know swells were in the five to six metre rounded the headland. the kayak well but we soon started range, big ocean stuff, the mammoth to gain confidence as the boat held waves actually gave us shelter from We expected to be in rough condi- a good speed and even when we got the wind - impressive forces. tions for up to six hours as we clawed hit by a few breaking waves the boat around three major headlands in- handled everything thrown at it. It We’d made great time paddling the cluding the most southern point of was exceptionally well made so I first 35 kms, two hours faster than the island. If all went to plan, we’d wasn’t worried about any gear fail- predicted, but we knew we were still then have the south-east trade winds ure. only halfway and the last headland behind us and we should be able to near the end would be exposed again surf the 15 kms to reach the north The GPS was giving us useful in- to the trade winds. It was heating coast and sheltered water. The sup- formation on what the currents were up and Sophie was keen to go for a port boat provided some level of doing. We could maintain the same swim, so after six hours we had our comfort but the nature of east coast paddling speed by cruising between first break, a swim, food and a guz- is wild and remote and there were 5 and 8 km/hr. By mid morning, we zle of water. It was then back pad- safety concerns for the boat too. In were released by currents and made dling, making the most of being able the conditions on the day there were to paddle close to the coast and enjoy about 20 kms of rough waters to pass the scenery, sea caves, chasms, arch- before everyone could relax a little. ways and then we started to paddle next to the villages towards town. Conditions weren’t ideal but it was the best forecast for the days we had With 60 kms completed, we took available to try. Plus we wanted to another 10 minute break to bail the paddle it in testing conditions as that water out, cool off again with a swim provided more of a bench mark look- and then head back into the high ing ahead at the possibility of mak- winds and swells to make it around ing it a race. Had we paddled around An archway cut by marine erosion the final headland. It was a really in dead flat seas it would still leave into the limestone coastline good way to finish, being reminded

13 No. 184 August - September 2016 of what we’d spent the morning do- ing, fighting into the wind, pitching and tossing around in the waves and swells.

Nearing 4:00 pm, we got into shelter of the land and started to savour the achievement and adventure. We’d done it - 69.3 kms in nine hours and 40 minutes. It was a tremendous feeling climbing out of the kayak we’d climbed into 10 hours prior, with major unknowns ahead of us.

The circumnavigation created quite a buzz around the island and it was really special to have a sizeable wel- coming party at the beach when we Sophie and Nathan after successfully completing a rather swift paddle landed. The chief invited us to din- around the South Pacific island of Niue ner that night at the village. Sophie and I both agreed it was an awesome Polynesian culture. Our trip was the did it in a day as they probably never paddle, very challenging and highly first known circumnavigation but I needed too. rewarding. We felt extremely lucky have zero doubt that back in time the to have had the opportunity to do it. Niuean people would have paddled The trip was successful for many around the island in . It’s not reasons and we were thrilled to hear It confirmed for me that the Niuean that far and given they were paddling that there are a few local people eye- waters will be incredible for ocean between the South Pacific islands, ing up the challenge now too. sports. I’d love to see some paddling Samoa, Tonga, Fiji, even perhaps events and a paddling culture really Aotearoa, they would have easily www.niueisland.com grow there - it’s a massive part of gone around Niue. Maybe they never

Kayaking in the Hakai Area North of Vancouver Island, British Columbia by Margot Syms (photos: Peter and Margot Syms)

Located in British Columbia, some at 4:00 am to catch the shuttle to the We had 10 single and two double 120 km north of Vancouver Is, the ferry terminal at 5:00 am. Much bag kayaks, the latter being required myriad islands of the outer Hakai/ organizing into luggage carts, and fi- to carry the larger party gear. Peter Luxvbalis Conservancy provide a nally we walked onto the ferry, most and I clung possessively to one of magnificent area for kayaking. It is of us wheeling a kayak. Five hours the doubles while the others rotated remote, and includes coast line ex- later we disembarked at Bella Bella, the short straw of paddling the other. posed to the full force of the Pacific the first stop and the nearest habita- Some of the beaches were quite tidal, Ocean, as well as sheltered sounds. tion to our paddling area. All kayaks, and leaving from these on a dropping There are islands, large and small, gear and food were then loaded onto tide was problematic because large tidal inlets and lagoons, sandy beach- the water taxi (large) and we headed guided parties are slow to get on the es, and little sign of man - apart from out, filling 44 ten-litre water bags en water. First, all the boats would be his washed up rubbish. We joined a route. carried empty down to water’s edge, 10 day guided kayak trip because the and packing would begin. Peter and logistics were complex and paddling The Goose Group was intended as I would religiously keep shifting our there alone was beyond our comfort the highlight of the trip, being both double out as we packed so it always zone. exposed and remote, so we started remained just afloat, and so avoid- there by water taxi. On arrival at ing a final carrying of the laden boat. Our group of 11 clients and three Snipe Island on a dropping tide, Our technique was taken up by the guides (one a trainee) met over a gear, food, water and people had to others as the trip progressed. meal in the town of Port Hardy, north be ferried ashore by kayaks and a Vancouver Island, on the eve of the small Zodiac without motor. And so The weather on the west coast of trip in July 2016. Next morning the we settled in to our home for three BC in summer is either sunny and ferry going north up the Inside Pas- nights while we explored the area windy (early starts required to beat sage left at 7:30 am, but early report- and ate enough to fit everything into the wind) or wet and calmer. It ap- ing times were mandatory, so we rose our boats. peared we had elected for the latter.

14 New Zealand Sea Canoeist

After all, we were in part of the huge otters would float on their backs, eat- its size. There is also the settlement area called the Great Bear Rain For- ing their catch carefully balanced on of Shearwater about five kms away est. Campsites and beaches are few their tummies. They had been hunted across the sound. This is more of a and far between, but the guides knew to local extinction and more recently tourist place with marina, pub, a few where they were. One could camp reintroduced, and now they seem to shops and accommodation. There is on the sand, minimal at spring high be quite common. a small shuttle boat between here and tides, or in a cleared site in the forest. Bella Bella but I am not sure whether We opted for the latter, to reduce the With a mackerel sky the evening be- it would carry a kayak, so it could be amount of fine sand in the sleeping fore and enough food eaten, on day simpler to paddle. bag - under the assumption, fortu- three it was time to leave the Goose nately correct, that the Great Bears Group, and we were up at 5:00 am to From the north of Goose Island the (Grizzly) did not visit the small is- get away by 8:30 am, such are large exposed Golby Passage has to be lands. The rain however did! guided trips. We paddled north up crossed. For us it was flat calm with the east side of Goose Island. Near a slight swell, and sunny. About the Our first three days, in the Goose the tip we met a family - mum, dad middle of the crossing we saw a Group, were fine with a bit of cloud and two young girls in two double humpback whale coming towards and occasional drizzle. On day 1, we kayaks. I do admire such parents. us, disappearing after a breath about explored Gosling Island but it was They had been on the same ferry as 100 m away. We waited, and wait- a bit rough to get down among the us with their boats, and had started ed, becoming a little nervous, until Gosling Rocks to the south. These paddling at Bella Bella. There is a whoosh, 300 m beyond us it surfaced are low rounded mounds, with very beach right beside the ferry dock and again, then raised its tail and dived. little visible at a high tide. There you can just wheel/carry your kayak Great sighting, and frankly close were some keen fishermen in the from ferry to water’s edge. enough. group, who came armed with gear and licenses, and that night we en- There is so much interesting territory When we arrived among the islets joyed an entree of pan-fried ling cod around here that this is a good option of the McMullin Group, the tide and rock cod. On the rest of the trip, to save a water taxi, at least at one was low and we had to go well out while no-one succeeded in catching end of a trip. Bella Bella proper is a to the east to not get stranded. Large a salmon, we did enjoy several such First Nations village four kms up the amounts of intertidal sand build up entrees. Always, the fish backbone road and has a good supermarket for in the lee of where the Pacific has was left on the beach a way off, and after a while a Bald Eagle would come swooping down, grab it in its talons and fly off for a meal in peace. This bird is as happy a scavenger as it is a fisherman.

The next day with less wind we went for a paddle around the lesser is- lands of the group. First visiting the tidal inlet between Swan and Goose Is, then returning south along the outside of Swan and Duck islands. These islands have a wide band of rocks protecting them from the pounding waves of the Pacific Ocean in rough weather. Being out there in the swell with ‘the Orient’ the next land to the west was a highlight for me. But later when I asked another woman whether she had enjoyed it, she replied ‘whatever’. Different people on a group tour value differ- ent aspects.

It was here we first encountered the sea otters. In the distance you would see shapes on the water but could only tell the otters from kelp bob- bles by whether they changed shape or disappeared and reappeared. The

15 No. 184 August - September 2016 dissipated its rage against the first The next day (day five) we were off, ing to go outside the McNaughton defences of the land. Just before en- rain or shine (ha ha). By the time we Group. However the current enter- tering our cove we saw and heard a got across to Miles Island in steady ing the Hunter Channel, which links loon, it was the alarm call but beau- rain and a bit of wind, many of us to the Inside Passage, was too strong tiful and haunting at the same time. were rather cool. A lunch stop was so we rounded Latta Island and went After lunch, five of us (including called in a sheltered spot where two between the McNaughton Group and ‘never miss an opportunity’ P & M), islands are close together. One guide the huge Hunter Island. It was inter- went around to the outside of our lit a small fire, another put a pot of esting to follow along on the chart island and a couple of adventurous water on to heat. I volunteered to and peep into the narrow channels singles surfed between the rocks. steady the large pot on the wee gas as we passed them. At this point my Doug, older than us, with his Green- stove, and got my hands warmed compass did not really seem to be land paddle and in his own boat was in the process. After a hot drink all making sense, so I ignored it and just one of them, and Matt (the chief round, lunch (which for me was a case used the coastline. It was the next guide) the other. of ‘have a little biscuit with your pea- morning while packing and Peter nut butter’) and being in partial shel- was putting the three kg gas bottle in That night the rain started. We re- ter from the rain by an overhang, we my cockpit, for’ard of my foot pegs, alised that we had not been on long were considerably revived. The rain that he noticed the compass rotate. trips camping in the rain for some had eased a bit by the time we set off, Of course! Space was henceforth time, in the order of a decade. Added and continued to do so, and there was made for said gas bottle in a hatch to this we had our small three-season even a bit of sun. We paddled south- further aft. tent, instead of the big guns. Howev- east around Campbell Island and to er, old skills die hard and Peter reli- the camp at the tiny Hippy Beach, We arrived at Superstition Beach, giously attended to the finer points of made of shells, on a small island. so called only because the nearest tent pitching, with very good results - named feature is Superstition Point. and sodden sleeping bags came there Travelling by air to Canada and The optional paddle of the arvo took none. A lot of the ‘locals’ had tarps/ having to lug everything with us, in the sheltered passages south of flies with them to make life easier. A we were a bit limited in what gear the beach, then across the mouth of lazy day followed. I semi-regretted we could bring. Careful planning Cultus Sound to the exposed south- not going on the offered short paddle was needed. For kayak clothing we west end of the McNaughton Group. in the rain, but it seemed wise to keep worked on the principle of layers, What a dramatic bit of rugged coast- paddling clothes dry for the morrow. and apart from that first wet morn- line. And from here we could look Even Doug was not a starter as he ing when we should have worn one across at the Goose Group, which had succumbed to the ‘trip cold’, more layer, we were never cold. In looked so far away in the heavy which one bloke brought along and fact we were always in that reassur- overcast conditions. Needless to which progressively affected about ing situation of having a spare dry say it was drizzling again when we two thirds of the party. layer tucked away at all times. My arrived back, but the fire was go- new spray jacket became my most ing and the kitchen tarp erected to It was here we first met the Western treasured possession, and my neo- provide welcome comfort. I can see Sandpipers, small waders scurrying prene helmet was worn for the first why a flysheet is so recommended around the tide line feeding on small time in anger. And worn, and worn. for Fiordland paddling. hoppers etc. We tried to not disturb them as they were re-stoking their For around camp we had parkas and North Americans like their camp boilers during their migration to overtrou (the latter bought in Port fires whatever the weather, but on breeding grounds in Alaska. Hardy I will admit). A few had the this trip the fire was essential for luxury of gumboots. Our all purpose warmth, warming rain water for boots were stowed away in plastic extra cups of tea and drying damp bags from here on, and I spent all my clothes. It was not uncommon to wakeful time in my paddling booties. see three wet backsides cantilevered Needless to say, soon rows of poten- over the fire. There are vast num- tial blisters on my feet matched the bers of cedar logs washed up on all seam lines of these. When sticking the beaches, these have escaped in plaster started to run low, I resorted rough weather from log booms be- to socks, which I should have used in ing towed by barges. In fact you can the first place. Overall we were ade- get an idea of how exposed a cove quately equipped, and the only thing is by how far above the high tide I would add another time would be level the logs have been dumped by winter paddling gloves. We did not the sea. We also carried an axe; this need them. Just. and the tarp were a godsend on this trip. Cedar has a very straight grain Western sandpipers feeding On day six after overnight rain, we and splits easily. Even when logs are at the tide line headed south from Hippy Beach hop- sodden, they can be split to expose

16 New Zealand Sea Canoeist

The group squeezed into Hippy Beach; Margot in the left foreground, in no hurry to remove her spray jacket and neoprene helmet the dry wood inside. One can just at- realised where I was and that it was almost sunshine, we paddled around tack a long log 50 cms in diameter a humming bird. the Breadner Group and investigated to extract a bundle of good firewood. the big lagoon of the south coast of The overnight rain did ease while we Spider Island. No rain over night! Enjoy it while had breakfast and packed up, only to we could. Leaving our camp we resume as we left. As forecast, there No rain for our last night of the trip. paddled around Superstition Point, was a bit more wind, so we had to There had been a bit of after-bargain where it was a bit choppy and ex- forego exploring around the Serpent whingeing on the part of the water posed, then into the shelter of Spider Group, and use the sheltered waters taxi over our pickup time, conducted Island. Along here was a rare sandy of Kildidt Sound and go between by sat phone. Pickup at 6:00 pm was beach where we stopped for a short Manley and Hurricane islands, then agreed to, which gave us time for a snack so we did not get too cold. south again to a sheltered beach on morning paddle in fine weather as We preferred to paddle on for a late the north of Triquet Island. Despite well as packing up in the afternoon. lunch at our next camp in the Serpent the rain it was not cold paddling, Six of us paddled around Kidney Is- Group. These islands are exposed to maybe we were used to it. Tarp up, land, enjoying a bit of swell, while the wide Hakai Passage to the south, fire going, late lunch, and no real de- some others went - no yet there is a glorious sheltered cam- sire for an extra paddle afterwards in fish for lunch unfortunately. pable area on sand caught between the rain. After all we were here for a one bigger and two smaller islands. couple of nights. We packed up, I got that end of trip anticlimax feeling, not helped by At low tide you can walk on sand After a wet night the forecast was the fact I was succumbing to the trip between the islands, but at high tide for less wind and a chance of show- cold. The water taxi arrived on time, they are distinct. We arrived at low ers. Correct, 100% chance. A group loading was a bit quicker than un- tide, and as the tide rose moved the of seven of us had a morning pad- loading had been because we were boats up and floated them around a dle around Triquet Island, enjoying 40 odd water bags and much food wee lagoon to the permanent sand of a bit of swell on the south side and lighter. In an hour, we had whizzed the big island. The vegetation was sneaking among the islands to the past what had taken us days to pad- low with quite a few flowers out. west. A stop at a beach enabled fire- dle, and on up the Hunter Channel to As I awoke next morning I thought I wood collecting as well as bladder the tourist town of Shearwater where heard a huhu bug flying past, until I relief. After lunch back at camp, in we cleaned up and spent the night, af-

17 No. 184 August - September 2016 ter a good feed at the pub. Great trip.

Useful Information: 1. Gabriola Sea Kayaking guided our trip and provided the gear. Clients participate in the catering: www.kayaktoursbc.com

2. BC Ferries for all major ferry ser- vices in British Columbia: www.bcferries.com/schedules

3. Shearwater village facilities: www.shearwater.ca

4. Maps - Marine chart 3937 Queens Sound, and 3938 Queens Sound to Seaforth Channel. Both 1:40,000, available at marine and chart shops.

5. Alberni Outpost sell kayak and oth- A damp evening in the McMullin Group with firewood free for the chopping er outdoor gear online and from their up, and the use of the wonderful tarps and flys to stay dry. stores in Courtenay and Nanaimo: www.albernioutpost.com

TECHNICAL

Sea Kayaking Skills - Deck Carries by David Winkworth

These are my thoughts on Deck Car- painfully slow due to the drag of the Get your towline handy in case you ries. No-one has all the answers in body in the water and secondly, you need to use it. Put your paddle on its sea kayaking. You should practise will have no steerage and control of leash if it’s not already on it. Have these skills for yourself and decide your kayak. When a kayak turns it a good drink of water - it may be a what works best for you. I hope these does so by pivoting approximately at tough paddle coming up! notes are a useful guide for you. the bow hatch, which means that the stern must sweep around. If a per- Now, a few things may count against So, what exactly is a deck carry? son is hanging onto your stern - then you doing the deck carry. I’ll go clearly your kayak cannot turn and through them: Simply, it’s a rescue! It’s the trans- you will most likely stay beam-on to portation of a paddler or a swimmer the breaking waves that you hoped Panicking Patient. Is the person in on the rear deck of a sea kayak. would aid your progress! the water panicking? Screaming, hy- perventilating, distraught perhaps? If It’s not quite that simple though, so Remember that the conditions in this is so, then do not go near them I’ll start from the beginning. which you may be called to do a just yet. If you do, they may pull you deck carry are unlikely to be mill- over as they attempt to climb aboard You come across a tired swimmer pond flat. People don’t fall out of your kayak. ‘Makes no sense having well out to sea, a member of your boats much on calm water! It could two people in the cold water! Watch paddling group has smashed their be challenging conditions. them and talk to them. Reassure kayak on a bombie or they’ve come them. out of their boat and you need to So, you have to get this person out of move them back to it. Whatever - it’s the water and onto your back deck. Let them drink a little sea water a very useful skill to have. The first thing to do is to prepare maybe. You need them to do exactly yourself before you go in to them. as you say. If you assess them as be- How are you going to do this? Paddle upwind to them - you’ll have ing unable to do that then you don’t steerage into the wind and you’ll be want them aboard your boat. Tough Having the person hang onto the unlikely to surf over them. Call out to love? Yes it is. Call in the cavalry if stern of your kayak is NOT the an- them, “Are you OK?” You’re look- you have a radio or a phone you can swer. Firstly, your progress will be ing for a calm measured response. use.

18 New Zealand Sea Canoeist

Skills All Round Do you have the skills to do this? OK, maybe you do - but does the pa- tient know what to do too? If the pa- tient is a sea kayaker you may be fine but if they’re not, then it could be difficult on a heaving windy ocean to get your instructions understood and carried out. Think about this.

Competing Masses How big are you? How buoyant is your kayak? How big is the patient? If you are a small person in a nar- row low volume 4.5 metre kayak and the patient is 120 kg+ then the deck carry most likely will not work. Your kayak will point to the sky and you’ll capsize. Do the maths as quickly as you can. Also, ‘big’ people can have quite a bit of difficulty getting onto Deck carry practice. Have someone in the water beside you steadying the the deck of a kayak. kayak. Note the person climbing on to the kayak deck is kicking hard. Photo: Tim Morris Rear Deck Gear If you’re carrying a pile of gear on You can brace on either the side Generally the person should cross your back deck then not only will it that the person will come aboard or the rear deck of your kayak about inhibit the patient climbing aboard the other side. Whatever suits you! a third of the way back from you. but it will also force their mass higher You’re the rescuer so you call the Once they feel some ‘balance’ they and prevent them getting their weight shots! should swing around so that their low as close to you in the cockpit as body lies along the deck with their possible. This may be another case of And in calling the shots remember to head right behind you. As much as calling in some outside help. tell the person what YOU want: possible their feet should be out of - “Reach over and grab the far the water on either side of the stern. But let’s say everything’s OK and deckline and kick hard to get you go in for the deck carry. yourself up.” When they’re in position, hold your - “Pull me over and you’re dead brace until you’re ready to paddle To do this manoeuvre you’re going meat!” off. Take your time because it will to have to brace while the person - “Keep your body AND head feel a little unstable. climbs aboard. The brace you’ll need very low. Get your head right up to do is the ‘Sculling Low Brace.’ behind me.” When it’s time to jettison your cargo, I’m not going to go through that do a low brace to steady yourself and stroke here except to say that your Communication is important be- tell them to slip off slowly. ‘sculls’ should be a good metre long cause you won’t be able to turn for optimum support (see photo). around to watch!

Waikato Safe Vehicle Parking and Theft by Evan Pugh After an enjoyable Lake Rotoma trip on returning to the 11 vehicles which we had parked at the eastern end of the lake on Matahi Road, we discovered six of them had been broken into by lowlife scumbags.

One had extensive damage to the door, door lock and window broken while others had only a window or small win- dow broken. One was lucky enough to only have a window pried open and the ashtray with coins in taken.

They seemed to stay away from new vehicles with modern door locks and alarms. The vehicles had been carefully searched and only money or Visa/EFTPOS cards taken, no clothing, or good shoes etc., missing.

Most of us had our wallets and cash with us in the kayaks but it is distressing for those losing cards that can be used like paywave etc., and having to find cellphone reception to call a bank and cancel these perhaps hours after they were taken.

We will start from behind the café next time as there are houses there to hopefully keep these types away. We have been lucky over the years but this really brings it home as to being careful where to park.

19 No. 184 August - September 2016

Chillproof top that I keep for more EQUIPMENT nasty conditions. The ‘Bugger! File REVIEWS Sharkskin have not been shy about branding their garments and it is only Kerikeri Low Tide Mud Bath your life jacket that saves you from by Lynnis Burson Sharkskin Tops looking like a floating Sharkskin by Andrew McMullen advertisement. I had a delightful afternoon taking my 12 year old grandson for a paddle Sharkskin is a line of clothing made For that mid winter plunge, no way down Kerikeri River on a dropping for water sports. It comes in a variety does Sharkskin compare to a drysuit. tide just after Easter. I impulsively of forms. ’Chillproof’ is the style Sharkskin will perform roughly changed my well thought out trip most suitable for kayakers. The equivalently to a lightweight wet plan, which was to launch at Opito garments consist of a fleece layer suit, but be more comfortable to Bay and paddle up to Aroha Island against your skin covered by a top wear when dry. You should however for a cook up on the beach. Instead layer that keeps out the elements. expect to experience less agony than we launched at Scudders, paddled The correct sizing has it fitting snug those kitted out in polarfleece and down river, had our baked beans to your body to minimise the water other insulating tops. cook up followed by Malteser East- that enters if things don’t quite go to er Bunnies - they are so yum - then plan and you find yourself swimming Of course you don’t have to be back to Scudders. (so in this respect it functions as content with just a top, there are a wetsuit would). The trouble is the long pants, balaclava, socks and My grandson Reinah was loving I don’t find ‘skin tight’ all that pogies to match. If you kit yourself every minute. Arriving at Scud- comfortable to wear all day so have up in all these, not only will you ders, there was no water, but plenty gone the next size up and possibly find that the effects of cold water of mud flats. He’s so light that he compromised a bit on performance immersion are delayed but you will paddled his kayak several metres but gained a garment that I am likely be eligible for direct entry into ninja over the goo then got out and sank to be wearing when I need it. school! up to his thighs without hitting firm ground. I am always impressed at how good Lavacore is another product with the fleece lining is at letting go of similar properties to Sharkskin: At this point, I know I’m in big trou- water once you emerge onto dry https://www.lavacoreinternational. ble. He is still loving this adventure land. The fleece drains and drains and com/products/tops/ with his grandmother, however I’m drains and ends up feeling acceptably Outdoor Action is an Auckland feeling daft. dryish after a few minutes. outlet that stocks a large Sharkskin range and has good prices: http:// I’ve a rope in the cockpit which he Just over a year ago I bought a vest www.outdooraction.co.nz/shop-by- ties on my kayak, then hauls me off Trade Me, put it on and leapt into brand/sharkskin.html across to where the mud is only 7 degree water in the pool expecting & Kayak stock ankle deep. A local wades out and some sort of miracle. What I Sharkskin products in Tauranga: invites us to use his hose while car- experienced was a bout of rapid http://www.canoeandkayak.co.nz/ rying Reinah’s boat to the tap, then breathing accompanied by the pain shop/Clothing/x_item_sort_by// comes back and helps me with mine. that cold water brings. I stuck it out page/2.html We sure needed that tap! for a misery filled 10 minutes and Expect to pay $200 to $250 for a emerged cold, cold, cold, including long sleeve top. the bits of me covered by the vest. However, there was no doubt in my mind (as I dripped my way to the warm shower) that it was because of the vest that I was able to stay in for an extended time.

My winter kayaking top clothes consist of the sharkskin vest covered by a light wool singlet. The vest seems able to breathe to some extent and it only becomes a bit damp after extended periods of maximum effort. At lunch stops it keeps the chilly wind at bay. I have since bought a Lynnis Burson long sleeve version of the Sharkskin

20 New Zealand Sea Canoeist

voured condoms; finally, at the bot- boat with an expertly woven hemp HUMOUR tom, he finds a packet of aspirin. He rope, the man can only stare ahead, tears it open, swallows the pills, and dumb struck. As they walk into the School Biology Class stops winking. house, she says casually, “It’s not The 6th grade science teacher, Mrs. ”Well,” said the interviewer, “that’s much, but I call it home. Sit down, Parks, asked her class, “What human all well and good, but this is a re- please. Would you like a drink?” body part increases to ten times its spectable company, and we will not “No! No thank you,” the man blurts size when stimulated?” have our employees womanizing all out, still dazed. “I can’t take another No one answered until little Mary over the country!” drop of coconut juice.” stood up and said, “You should not “Womanizing? What do you mean? “It’s not coconut juice,” winks the be asking sixth-graders a question I’m a happily married man!” woman. “I built a still. How would like that! I’m going to tell my par- “Well then, how do you explain all you like a Tropical Spritz?” Trying ents, and they will go and tell the these condoms?” to hide his continued amazement, principal, who will then fire you!” “Oh, that,” he sighed. “Have you the man accepts, and they sit down Mrs. Parks ignored the stroppy lit- ever walked into a pharmacy, wink- on her couch to talk. After they ex- tle tart and asked the question again, ing, and asked for aspirin?” change their individual survival “Which body part increases to 10 stories, the woman announces “I’m times its size when stimulated?” Shipwrecked going to slip into something more Little Mary’s mouth fell open. Then One day a man decided to retire. comfortable. Would you like to take she said to those around her, “Boy is He booked himself on a Caribbean a shower and shave? There’s a razor she going to get in so much big trou- cruise and proceeded to have the in the bathroom cabinet upstairs.” ble!” time of his life, that is, until the ship No longer questioning anything, the The teacher continued to ignore her sank. He soon found himself on an man goes upstairs into the bathroom. and said to the class, “Anybody?” island with no other people, no sup- There, in the cabinet is a razor made Finally, Billy stood up, looked plies, nothing, only bananas and co- from a piece of tortoise bone. Two around nervously, and said, “The conuts. After about four months, he shells honed to a hollow ground body part that increases 10 times its is lying on the beach one day when edge are fastened on to its end inside size when stimulated is the pupil of the most gorgeous woman he has a swivel mechanism. ‘This woman the eye.” ever seen rows up to the shore. In is amazing,’ he muses. ‘What’s Mrs. Parks said, “Very good, Billy,” disbelief, he asks, “Where did you next?’ When he returns, she greets then turned to Mary and continued. come from? How did you get here?” him wearing nothing but some small “As for you, young lady, I have three She replies, “I rowed over from the flowers on tiny vines, each strategi- things to say to you. One, you have other side of the island where I land- cally positioned, she smelled faintly a dirty mind. Two, you didn’t read ed when my cruise ship sank.” of gardenias. She then beckons for your homework. And three, one day “Amazing,” he notes. “You were re- him to sit down next to her. “Tell you are going to be very, very disap- ally lucky to have a row boat wash me,” she begins suggestively, slither- pointed.” up with you.” ing closer to him, “We’ve both been “Oh, this thing?” explains the wom- out here for many months. You must Eye Disorder an. “I made the boat out of some raw have been lonely. When was the last A man with a winking disorder is ap- material I found on the island. The time you played around?” She stares plying for a position as a sales repre- oars were whittled from gum tree into his eyes. He can’t believe what sentative for a large firm. branches. I wove the bottom from he’s hearing. “You mean...” he swal- The interviewer looks over his pa- palm tree branches, and the sides and lows excitedly as tears start to form pers and says, “This is phenomenal. stern came from a Eucalyptus tree.” in his eyes, “You’ve built a golf You’ve graduated from the best “But, where did you get the tools?” course!” schools; your recommendations are “Oh, that was no problem,” replied wonderful, and your experience is the woman. “On the south side of the The Blonde Wife unparalleled. Normally, we’d hire island, a very unusual stratum of al- The very blonde wife picked up the you without a second thought. How- luvial rock is exposed. I found that phone, listened a moment and said, ever, a sales representative has a if I fired it to a certain temperature in “How should I know, that’s 200 highly visible position, and we’re my kiln, it melted into ductile iron. I miles from here!” and hung up. afraid that your constant winking used that to make tools and used the The husband said, “Who was that?” will scare off potential customers. tools to make the hardware.” The wife answered, “I don’t know, I’m sorry - we can’t hire you.” The guy is stunned. “Let’s row over some woman wanting to know if the “But wait,” the man says. “If I take to my place,” she says. So, after a coast is clear.” two aspirin, I’ll stop winking!” short time of rowing, she docks the “Really? Great! Show me!” boat at a small wharf. As the man Short and Sweet So the applicant reaches into his looks to shore, he nearly falls off the As I was getting in bed, she said, jacket pocket and begins pulling out boat. Before him is a long stone walk “You’re drunk.” all sorts of condoms: red condoms, leading to a cabin and tree house. I said, “How do you know?” blue condoms, ribbed condoms, fla- While the woman ties up the row- She said, “You live next door.”

21 No. 184 August - September 2016 4th Ed. KASK HANDBOOK WELLINGTON Sea Kayak Network KASK John Andrews KASK, the Kiwi Association of Sea NOW OUT OF PRINT (04) 472 8281 Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc., a network of (021) 454 096 New Zealand sea kayakers, has the A 5th edition of the KASK Handbook [email protected] objectives of: is planned. It is a mammoth compila- https://www.facebook.com/WellSeaKayak/ 1. promoting and encouraging the tion on all aspects of sea kayaking in sport of sea kayaking New Zealand, by many of the most SOUTH ISLAND 2. promoting safety standards experienced paddlers in the Universe. 3. developing techniques & NELSON Canoe Club equipment SEA KAYAKING www.nelsonkayakers.co.nz 4. dealing with issues of coastal NETWORK ADDRESSES Diane Winter access and protection NORTH ISLAND Ph: (03) 548 2026 5. organizing an annual sea kayak NORTHLAND Canoe Club [email protected] forum PO Box 755, Whangarei 0140 CANTERBURY Sea Kayak Network 6. publishing a bimonthly Carola Carstens Ian McKenzie magazine. Ph: (09) 430 2707 (027) 725560 Ph 03 355 0684 mail: [email protected] The New Zealand Sea Canoeist is Cell 027 220 7251 published bimonthly as the official Email: [email protected] AUCKLAND Canoe Club journal of the Kiwi Association of www.sportsground.co.nz/canterburyseakayak Sea Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc. PO Box 9271, Newmarket, Auckland OTAGO Canoe and Kayak Club Articles, trip reports, book reviews, email: [email protected] Lesley Pijpker equipment reviews, new techniques, email: [email protected] letters to the editor, and moments HAURAKI Kayak Group Ph: (027) 7270811 when the word ‘Bugger!’ was said PO Box 46-146, Herne Bay, Auckland singularly or often (referred to by email: [email protected] SOUTHLAND Sea Kayak Network some as incidents) are sought to en- www.hkg.org.nz Stan Mulvany liven the pages of the magazine. 03 215 7263 Send to: WAIKATO KASK Contact email: [email protected] Paul Caffyn, Evan Pugh, RD2, Putaruru 3482 www.sskn.uniformnz.com 1843C Coast Rd, email: [email protected] YAKITY YAK Clubs RD 1, Runanga 7873, West Coast Ph: 07 883 6898 www.yakityyak.co.nz Ph: 03 731 1806 www.sportsground.co.nz/bayseakayak email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] RUAHINE Whitewater Club NZOIA Outdoor Instructors Assn KASK Annual Subscription c/o Melanie Grant, 5 Waitapere Court, www.nzoia.org.nz $35 single membership. Ashhurst, 4810. $40 family membership. P: (06) 326 8667. Coastguard Boating Education $35 overseas (PDF email magazine) P: (0800) 40 80 90 (09) 361 4700 A subscription form can be down- BAY OF PLENTY - KASK Contact E: [email protected] loaded from the KASK website. Iona Bailey, Tauranga W: www.boatingeducation.org.nz Cheques should be made out to: Ph: 07 576 1492 Kiwi Association Sea Kayakers & email: [email protected] New Zealand Search & Rescue mailed to: www.nzsar.org.nz KASK Administrator BASK Bay Assn. of Sea Kayakers www.adventuresmart.org.nz PO Box 23, Runanga 7841 Bevan Grant www.beacons.org.nz West Coast [email protected] Maritime New Zealand Payment can be made by direct cred- 07 576 8885 it (preferred) to: www.sportsground.co.nz/bayseakayak www.maritime.govt.nz 03 1706 0010205 00 with your name and/or KASK mem- ROTORUA Kayak Club bership number for reference. 7 Mahana Place, Rotorua Ph: 027 292 3138 Correspondence - Queries email: [email protected] KASK Website and Change of Address to: Karen Grant, KASK Administrator GISBORNE Sea Kayakers Club Kask.org.nz PO Box 23, Runanga 7841 John Humphris, 3 Matthews Rd, Gisborne West Coast Ph: 06 868 4657 or email Karen at: email: [email protected] [email protected]

22 Margot and Peter Syms paddling in the rain, and cozy. See story on page 14. Photo: Christopher Green

Manoeuvring kayaks at the camp in the Serpent Group as the tide rises Photo: Margot and Peter Syms MAILED TO

If undelivered, please return to: KASK, PO Box 23, Runanga, West Coast 7841

Kayaking in the Hakai Area, north of Vancouver Island, in British Columbia. Crossing the exposed Golby Passage on a perfect day. Photo: Peter and Margot Syms Story on page 14.

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