Casters Fly Shop Winter Newsletter 2008

Happy New Year to all! The year 2008 came in like a lion. It seems like only yesterday when some of my biggest concerns were how was I going to get to Algebra class on time, or who was I going to the prom with, or what was the family going to have for dinner. Now I have my own family and, in time, my young daughters will have similar concerns. I always say, “time flies whether you’re having fun or not”.

College football is over and college hoops is in full swing so we all know that winter is upon us. This is the time of the year that many of us hibernate by the fire but others take full advantage of Mother Nature and her winter beauty. Winter is one of the most beautiful times of the year and we need to take advantage of it while we can. Always remember, fish still eat in the winter and you can always battle the elements by layering up in your technical wear.

Fair weather fisherperson or not, this is a great time of the year to fill the fly boxes. It is a great time of the year to sit at the fly tying bench and tie those “go to patterns” or tie those new creations that, in your mind, are going to get ‘em. Mostly, it is a time we reminisce and daydream about the days those large trout came to the surface after adult sulphur patterns or the days those feisty smallmouths came crashing to the surface chasing huge surface poppers. It is a great time of the year, regardless of how we pass the time.

Many fly anglers tie their own flies and just as many fly anglers buy theirs. For those who don’t know how to tie flies, 2008 is a great time to learn the fine art. We offer many group and private lessons at Casters Fly Shop; this is as good of a time as any to change your ways. Below is a basic explanation of what we try to teach in our lessons and the dates we offer them:

Join Orvis Fly Designer, Dave Hise, as he reveals the tricks of the fly tying trade! Utilizing over 24 years of fly tying experience, Dave aims to teach the basics of fly tying, how to use specific materials, and how to efficiently tie the major groups of flies (streamers, nymphs, wets, dries, and egg patterns). These lessons will allow you to make informed decisions on the equipment and materials you will need to get started. Classes run four weeks and each class is 2 hours in length. 6 person max. Vise, tools, and materials included during class.

Rates- $85.00 per person for 4 sessions. Private lessons are also available and can be arranged around your schedule!!!!!! Tuesdays February 5 th , 12th , 19 th , 26 th from 5:30 - 7:30pm Saturdays February 2 nd , 16 th , 23 rd and March 1 st from 4:00 - 6:00pm March classes will also be available.

For those who already tie flies and are interested in increasing their knowledge, below are some tying (and ) tips that you may find helpful. One of the great things about and fly tying is we will never master either. Basically, it’s the school you’ll never graduate from; but, we still need to take in all we can from every angle we can.

Choosing the Right Thread SCOTT SANCHEZ

After the hook, tying thread is the most important item on a fly tier's bench. In the old days, the only thread choice was silk, but today there is a variety of thread materials available in a dizzying array of sizes and configurations. Choosing the right type of thread will help you manipulate your materials better so you can consistently produce more durable and attractive flies. Without the right thread, even your best efforts can be counterproductive.

Nylon and polyester threads are thinner and stronger than silk and therefore more practical for today's fly tying. Polyester has less stretch than nylon, which should give you more thread control. The stretch in nylon, on the other hand, gives you a buffer against breakage, and provides a "rubber-band" effect to grip materials better. Nylon thread is dyed after production and tends to have more vibrant, fluorescent colors than polyester.

Flat thread (pink) ties with less bulk and leaves a smooth finish. Twisted or round bonded thread "grabs" material better, and can be used for a rib, or for segmented bodies.

Kevlar and gel spun polyethylene (GSP) are newer thread materials. These fibers have incredible tensile strength but don't handle as well for general use, and are more expensive than polyester or nylon. Their best applications are for situations where strength is critical, such as flaring hair, wool, or egg yarn.

Kevlar has been around since the '70s. It is generally sold in what is considered to be a 3/0 size. It has "wiry" feel to it, which I have never been fond of, but it is strong.

GSP is a relatively new product. This is the same material as the Spider Wire and the new super thin fly line backings. It is slightly stronger than Kevlar, and has a softer feel and texture for tying. It is very slick and a drop of super glue on the hook shank before tying is a good idea.

Tying thread is sold in several different configurations. Most tying thread has a floss-like construction of multiple parallel fibers, creating a flat thread that can come with varying amounts of twist. Thread that can be flattened (untwisted before you wrap) makes it easier to produce a smooth head on the fly. Flat thread also tends to lie flatter on the hook and cause less bulk on the hook shank. Flat thread is also less prone to cut materials such as foam. Round thread, like rod- building or sewing thread, is built like rope, with a number of threads or plys twisted together.

Heavy twisted-ply thread holds material by biting into it and is a good choice if you need to spin deer hair, or build up mass with your thread, as in some saltwater flies.

Bonded thread is made semi-round by bonding parallel filaments together. It comes off the spool round, but if you warm it up in your hands, or slide it through your fingers prior to starting the fly, it will "break down" and lie flat on the hook. Bonded and twisted ply threads are more abrasion-resistant than flat thread. This can be a benefit, especially when tying bead head flies since the beads sometimes have rough edges. Also, round thread makes nice segmented bodies and can be used to rib the bodies of flies.

Removing or adding twist to any thread can change thread structure. This is accomplished by spinning the bobbin. When twisted, the thread has a little more bite and is less prone to fray. When flattened, there is less build up and a smoother finish, but it is more prone to fray.

Tying thread comes waxed or unwaxed. I prefer waxed thread because it gives me a better hold on the material, makes it easier to dub, lubricates the thread, and helps prevent fraying. The wax also bonds to itself, which keeps thread layers from slipping.

The disadvantages of waxed thread are that the wax can clog bobbins and add bulk to thread. Most waxed threads use a paraffin wax, but Uni-Products use a rosin wax. Uni is a good compromise as you lose some lubrication, but it doesn't seem to clog bobbins.

Some water-based cement will not penetrate wax thread properly. You can use beeswax, paraffin, or dubbing wax to prepare your own thread if you need it. I am not a big fan of dubbing wax for this purpose or dubbing, as it tends to be too sticky. Nylon monofilament (tippet material) is an attractive material because it is strong and transparent, but it stretches and relaxes after application, creating flies that fall apart unless you cover the thread with epoxy. Clear monofilament thread is different than tippet mono. It isn't quite as strong as tippet mono, but it has the right amount of stretch and suppleness for tying--even without epoxy. Most mono thread comes in two diameters, .004 (7X) and .006 (5X). Try the larger diameter for spinning hair--the smooth finish on the thread makes the process very easy.

Most tiers prefer the finest diameter thread that is functional for their tying. The finer the thread, the less bulk on the fly. Finer threads also provide better gripping power when you tie in numerous materials. However, there are times when heavier threads are appropriate. You need to use heavy thread when spinning deer hair or when you want to add bulk to your flies. Thick thread makes it easier to build large heads on pike and saltwater flies. It can also speed up your tying by covering materials with fewer wraps. Larger thread is less likely to break from fraying, since there are more filaments. This can be important if you have rough hands or are an inexperienced tier.

Thread Brands

Danville Danville is one of the oldest fly-tying thread companies the U.S. In reference to thread size and strengths, they are used as a standard. They also make most of the chenille you see in fly shops, and also sell mylar tinsels and braids. All Danville thread is made of nylon.

Spiderweb . This is very thin thread for tying the smallest flies. Finesse and smooth hands are necessary to use it. Available in white.

Flymaster . This is a flat fine thread and is also called Danville 6/0 or in older literature, Herb Howard Prewaxed. Flymaster is a good thread for smaller flies and where low thread buildup is critical. It is probably the most widely used thread in the world and it is the standard to which other fine threads are compared. Waxed or unwaxed; 25 colors. 3/0 Monocord. Monocord has a stiffer feel than other Danville thread. The 3/0 is good for flies larger than #12. It will work for flaring small amounts of hair, such as heads on hoppers. Waxed; 10 colors.

Flat Waxed Nylon. This is a very popular thread for saltwater flies. It has very little twist and it lies very flat. It is strong enough for hair work. The fluorescent colors are bold. Waxed; 15 colors.

A Monocord. This is a heavier version of the 3/0. It is typically used for hair work. Flat Waxed Nylon and Flymaster Plus have taken its place in the market. They have better names and colors. Waxed; 10 colors

Flymaster Plus. This is similar to Flat Waxed Nylon, but it has more twist. It is a good thread for hair and large flies. Bold colors. Waxed and unwaxed; 21 colors.

Monofilament. Ultra Fine .004 and Fine .006. Clear and smoke.

Benecchi Benecchi threads are unwaxed polyester with a fair amount of twist. The twist gives it an outer texture that may help hold materials. Benecchi also has a fine GSP thread. The spools come with an end cap to hold the thread when not in use. All of the polyester threads have a similar feel. Benecchi is based in Italy.

12/0. A nice thread for small flies. It spreads out nicely when wrapped on the hook. 20 colors

10/0. A good general purpose thread for flies larger than #18. 20 colors.

8/0. A good thread for larger trout flies, bonefish flies, or flaring hair on smaller flies. 20 colors.

10/0 GSP. A fine strong thread for small flies. It is more floss-like and less stiff than other GSP threads. White.

Gudebrod The American company Gudebrod sells thread for fly tying and rod wrapping, as well as for the general textiles market. They also manufacture dental floss, fly-line backing and almost any filament product you can think of. I always assumed Gudebrod thread was nylon, but Bob Siegl at Gudebrod informed me they are polyester. Gudebrod thread has more stretch than other polyesters and is a good compromise if you don't like nylon. Gudebrod thread has more wax than most, and is probably the easiest to dub on. All Gudebrod threads are flat.

Gudebrod colors are coded to the Borger Color Guide System, and spools are labeled with the thread color and the BCS number. The bright colors in this brand are very vibrant.

Since Gudebrod is in the sewing business, you can also buy this thread on larger sewing machine spools. To use this thread, you'll have to snap the spool onto a special Gudebrod plastic bobbin, or use a Griffin Multi-thread bobbin (no longer available) which fits larger spools and can be used with all sizes of Gudebrod thread.

Gudebrod also sells Kevlar and mono. The "A" rod wrapping thread can be used for flaring hair. All Gudebrod spools have built-in thread clips to keep the thread from coming off of the spool when not in use.

10/0. A very fine thread for small flies. It is the last step before going to the micro fly threads and will cover most tiers small-fly needs. It has more than twice the strength of smaller threads. 7 colors

8/0. A good thread for small to average trout flies and for larger flies where bulk is an issue. It makes small neat heads on flies. 12 colors

6/0. A thread for flies larger than #14 and for hair work on flies such as Irresistible or making small heads on deceivers. 16 colors. 3/0. A useful thread for hoppers, Muddlers, Woolly Buggers and saltwater flies. 14 colors.

G. A strong thread for hair bass bugs and also good for building heads on big flies. 13 colors.

Kevlar. The original "superthread" used for heavy hair work. 7 colors.

Mono. Available in three sizes in smoke and clear.

Gordon Griffith's Gordon Griffith's is a tackle distributor in the U.K. All these threads are made of polyester. The 14/0 and 8/0 are similar to Benecchi thread.

Sheer Ultrafine 14/0. A small-fly thread for nymphs and dries. A good option for big flies such as salmon flies where small heads are desired. Lightly waxed; 11 colors.

Wisp Microfine 8/0. A thread for trout flies #14 and smaller. Waxed or unwaxed; 10 colors.

Cobweb 6/0. This is a two-ply twisted thread. An option for hoppers, ribbing fly bodies, or for building heads on streamers. Waxed or unwaxed; 17 colors.

Wapsi Wapsi isn't a newcomer to fly tying, but has only recently entered the thread market. Wapsi is based in the US, and also distributes many other thread brands. Wapsi Ultra Thread is nylon, and has the appearance of floss. There is almost no twist and it flattens as well as any thread available. It is similar to Danville Flat Waxed Nylon, but available in smaller sizes. It has a shiny finish and the fluorescent colors are brilliant. It is a great substitute for floss. Both sizes are identical in feel and color. It is very easy to make multiple-turn whip finishes, and it creates very smooth heads on flies. Ultra Thread is lightly waxed. Wapsi is the first thread company to actively promote denier thread sizing. Spools are marked with color and size and include a color coded end cap to hold the thread end.

UTC 70. An excellent thread for small flies and low bulk big flies. The spreading nature of the thread makes it easy to tie low-profile flies. 18 colors.

UTC 140. A great thread for flies’ #14 and larger. Useful for tying flies such as the Madam X, hoppers and Clousers. A good substitute for floss; 18 colors

UTC 280. A nice flat thread for smooth heads on large flies and for tying bulky materials such as hair and wool. It makes excellent tags on steelhead flies; 10 colors.

Mono. Clear and smoke in .004 and .006.

Uni-Products The Canadian company Uni-Products carries the biggest range of spooled fly-tying materials. The company sells thread in a many different sizes and styles. Most of the thread is polyester, but Uni- Products also sells some nylon, kevlar, mono, and GSP threads for different applications. This company does an excellent job of labeling its products. The thread sizing labels won't peel off, and the color information is on them also. Labels in the future will also have denier weights on them.

Sizing on GSP threads has already been revamped to reflect denier weights. The 3/0 Uni-Cord is now 7/0 and the Uni-Cord 8/0 now called 12/0. Uni-Products' continuous filament, bonded threads seem proportionally stronger than other polyester threads. The unwaxed 8/0 and 6/0 feel similar to Benecchi and Griffith threads.

17/0 Trico. A fine polyester thread for tying micro flies. Finesse and smooth hands are necessary. Unwaxed; white.

8/0. An excellent thread for small flies and low bulk tying. Continuous polyester filaments are slightly bonded. The texture of the thread helps secure materials. Waxed or unwaxed; 21 colors.

6/0. This is a heavier version of the 8/0. An abrasion-resistant thread. Good for big dries, bead-heads and streamers that require tying in multiple materials. Waxed or unwaxed; 24 colors.

3/0. A flat polyester multifilament thread that works well for covering bulky materials. Used for flies larger than #12. Waxed or unwaxed; 17 colors

A+. A heavier version of the 3/0. It can be used for hair bugs and building bulk on flies. Waxed and unwaxed; 13 colors.

Big Fly Thread. A heavy, flat, bonded, polyester thread with continuous fibers. Good for bass bugs if you desire a non-stretch thread that isn't slippery like GSP or kevlar. Useful for building bulk and covering material on pike and offshore flies. Unwaxed; 10 colors.

1/0 Neon Flo. A very bright fluorescent 2-ply polyester thread. Designed to make bright heads. Also good for thread bodies and ribs. Unwaxed; 6 colors.

2/0 Poly II. A 2-ply polyester thread for those who prefer a traditional round tying thread. Unwaxed; 12 colors

Uni-Cord 7/0. A heavy duty thread for flaring hair, wool, and egg yarn. A great thread to use with large quantities of hair and for marginal hair. Uni-Cord has a nicer finish than some other GSP threads. Unwaxed; 6 colors Uni-Cord 12/0. A finer version of the Uni-Cord 7/0. A good option when you need superior strength on small flies. Unwaxed; 6 colors

Kevlar. Similar in size to other Kevlar, but it has a much softer feel. Natural yellow color.

Uni-Mono. Three sizes; clear.

Thread for #20 and smaller flies

Breaking Brand Denier Str

Danville Spider Web 30 4OZ

Uni-Trico 17/0 40 4OZ

Low-bulk thread for #10-22 flies

Breaking Brand Denier Str

Gudebrod 10/0 N/A 9OZ

Bennechi 10/0 GSP N/A 24OZ

Gudebrod 8/0 N/A 15OZ

Uni-Cord 12/0 GSP 50 44OZ

Benecchi 12/0 N/A 16OZ

Griffiths 14/0 N/A 16OZ

Wapsi Ultra 70 70 16OZ

Uni 8/0 72 16OZ

Danville Flymaster 79 16OZ 6/0 Pearsall 6/0 silk N/A 8OZ

High-strength thread for #10-22 trout flies

Breaking Brand Denier Str

Griffiths 8/0 N/A 20OZ

Benecchi 10/0 N/A 24OZ

Danville 3/0 116 26OZ Monocord

Benecchi 8/0 N/A 28OZ

Gudebrod 6/0 N/A 31OZ

Uni 6/0 135 33OZ

Wapsi Ultra 140 140 33OZ

Griffiths Cobweb 6/0 N/A 34OZ

Uni Poly II N/A 34OZ

Gudebrod 3/0 N/A 38OZ

Uni 3/0 213 40OZ

Uni Neon 1X 240 36OZ

Thread for large hair bugs or other high tensile strength uses

Breaking Brand Denier Str

280 UTC 280 70 OZ Denier Uni-Cord 7/0 100GSP 128OZ

Kevlar (all brands) 200 128OZ

Danville A Monocord N/A 52OZ

Gudebrod G N/A 59OZ

Danville Flat Waxed 223 67OZ Nylon

Danville Flymaster + 237 61OZ

Uni A Nylon N/A 44OZ

Uni A+ N/A 60OZ

Uni Big Fly 400 100OZ

* The above chart is a list of the options sold by various thread wholesalers. Some information is derived from manufacturers' data, and some from personal experience. The thread comparison chart was compiled by verifying the information supplied by the thread suppliers, conducting thread breaking strength test with a Chatillion scale, using loupes with 8X - 20 X magnification, feel, and tying experience.

True diameter comparisons are very difficult with thread because it compresses when a standard micrometer is applied to it. I have tried to mic thread, and my results varied as much as .003" on a single thread. That is too much of a variable to me.

The most accurate of available measurements is denier. This is the textile industry standard. A denier equals the gram weight of 9,000 meters of thread. Since nylon and polyester are comparable strengths and weights, denier is a fairly accurate comparison.

Wapsi was the first to actively promote a denier thread designation. They conducted tests of various threads both in-house and at a private lab. They gave me permission to use the results in this article. GSP is lighter in weight than other materials, so the denier weight is lighter than the strength and appearance would indicate. Twisted ply thread on the other hand, seems to be a heavier denier for a given strength. From this I conclude that twisting fibers adds more weight within a given length of thread, but it does not add strength.

Jean-Guy Cote of Uni also provided denier and breaking strength results for his thread, and Gudebrod also supplied breaking strengths. On threads where the denier was not supplied, I compared them against threads of known denier by visually inspecting at magnification, by tying with them, and using a non-caliper tippet gauge.

The tippet gauge was a slot type made by Gage.It. On this tippet gauge, you push the material into the slot until it touches the sides. Thread compresses so I didn't use this for accurate measurements, but I used it to get a rough idea of comparative thickness. I did this by pulling the thread into the gauge six times and comparing the average. While compiling this information, I tied the same fly, in the same size with various threads. I felt this would give me a real life comparison. Mono thread was measured with a micrometer. Both Gudebrod and Uni have a larger mono thread. I didn't have samples before I finished the article so they are not on the charts

While conducting breaking strength test, it occurred to me "if nylon and polyester are comparable strengths, breaking strength should give a fair approximation of thread sizes." Above I list thread by types of use, and my opinion of diameters within a category. Even among the best thread producers, thread strengths and diameters vary. These charts were designed to give you a fair comparison and not exact scientific results.

Thanks for the info Scott, I learned a few things I never knew.

Have any of you heard of or tied with the Siman, Ltd. fly tying

products?

We are proud to announce the arrival of Siman, Limited fly tying products to Casters Fly Shop. These are quality Czech fly tying products made and assembled by the "Golden Czech Hands" of Czech fly-fishermen. Their product range also includes special fly tying tools, weighted hooks, Czech competition flies, Czech landing nets and many other interesting toys for the big boys. How about Czech nymph or Czech nymphing? You’ll need to try this technique and perfect it; it is a deadly technique for even the wariest of trout.

Czech Nymphing

The Czech nymphing style is a rapid close range method that utilizes the fast, turbulent and usually ignored water present on most Trout streams. The principle of Czech nymphing is to get the flies down deep as fast as possible, for this reason the flies used must be as slim as possible, simply a sparse covering over a lead underbody. Nothing that could slow the flies’ descent should be added (excessively large legs, hackles etc). For Czech nymphing there is no as such, only three to six feet of fly line is actually used while fishing, with only the leader in the water.

Due to the lack of casting, leader type doesn't really matter, tapered leaders are fine but most use level monofilament. Leader strength should be determined by two factors, firstly, fish size and secondly the riverbed. When fishing deep the riverbed will be snagged on a regular basis, it is helpful for both the angler's enjoyment and his wallet that the leader is of the appropriate strength to remove snagged flies without loss. A leader for Czech nymphing should be roughly a rods length long with two droppers placed around twenty inches apart.

The difference in weight between flies and their position on the leader can also determine the effectiveness of the method. The heaviest should be placed in between the top and point fly, the reason being that the middle fly should pull those either side of it down allowing them to fish correctly along the bottom. If however the heavy fly is placed on the point the top dropper may not have the weight on its own to reach the bottom, thus limiting the angler’s chances. When fishing it is essential to examine the flies every few casts for weed removal (if present) and for blunted hooks after any encounters with snags. If the flies are snagged excessively alternate their weight, the flies must bounce and roll along the bottom not scour it. When fishing the angler’s eyes must never leave the tip of the fly line, takes can be either strong or violent or feather light and unnoticeable. Many find staring at a fly line tip for hours on end a little awkward and may develop eye strain, to reduce this a visible bite indicator can be used.

The fishing technique is simple but the approach is often more important, fish are never all along the opposite bank so wading should be careful and slow. All water from the foot of the bank to the focal point of the swim should be fished. Due to the presence of three heavy flies on one leader the cast must involve nothing more than a slow deliberate upstream lob, short sharp flicks can result in a short sharp shocks. The flies should be followed by the rod tip downstream until the rod is fully extended and the flies start to rise to the surface, the cast should now be re-made and the procedure repeated. As soon as the flies hit the water watch for anything out of the ordinary, a slight slowing and hesitation of the line or a quick sharp jerk in the opposite direction of the flow. Strike on every occasion, what may seem like a snag may be a fish.

Basic Czech nymph dressing

• Thread - personal preference (strong but fine, no unnecessary bulk) • Hook - Curved grub, Size 14 to 8 • Underbody - Adhesive lead foil (up to the eye and down again, keep it slim!) • Under Rib - Fine copper wire, oval tinsel etc (personal preference) • Over Rib - 3 or 4lb mono • Shell back - Flexibody or comparable shell back material. • Overbody (abdomen) - Any dubbing in colours from orange, dark red, dark medium and light olive, various tans, greens and any other colors (it's a personal thing). • Overbody (thorax) - Spiky dubbing darker than the abdomen to contrast, hares mask, squirrel etc.

Notes on tying

1. Cut a strip of lead foil about 1.5 mm wide, apply the lead halfway round the hook bend and wind to one wraps distance from the eye, then wind over the previous layer down to two or three wraps shy of the initial start point. 2. Apply the thread either at the eye or a third along the underbody, when secure, tie in both the mono and the wire/tinsel and wind over towards the bend just past the lead, now wind forward 3 or 4 mm. Prepare the shell back so it's the perfect width to cover the back of the fly, cut a point in the end and tie in working backwards over the few mm that were left earlier. 3. Apply the chosen abdomen dubbing to the thread and wind along two thirds of the hook, now apply the thorax dubbing and wind to the eye. At this point put on a couple of whips or a half hitch to prevent the thread being knocked over the eye. 4. In open turns wind on the under rib up to the eye, tie in and again whip or half hitch. 5. Pull over the shellback and tie it in securely at the eye and whip or half hitch for security. 6. Take the mono rib and wind it in between the windings of the under rib. When winding over shell backs they tend to migrate over to one side of the hook as the mono is pulled around the fly, check with every winding whether this is happening and correct if necessary. Tie in the mono at the eye and whip finish. 7. There are many colours of shell back available but alternatively buy one colour and mark with a waterproof pen. Wipe the pen over the back of the completed fly and quickly wipe off leaving the colour in the recesses created by the mono rib. This gives a nice segmented appearance.

Courtesy of Ben and SexyLoops

Some of you may have heard the big buzz from the fly - it’s the ZG Helios Fly Rods from Orvis . These rods are spectacular! Even if you don’t like Orvis and the products the company has to offer, you need to get out and try these fly rods. They will be the lightest rods you have ever had in your hands and possibly the finest rod you have ever fished. We’ll leave those opinions up to you, however. Here is some information and testimonials on these rods compiled by our friend, Tom Rosenbauer. Also be sure to check out the new Clearwater 2 fly rods, Silver Label XT , Pro Guide 3 waders, and the Battenkill Large Arbor Trout reels from the Orvis Company.

By Tom Rosenbauer

Two years ago, we set out to make the lightest fly rod in the industry . Part of the problem was that graphite fiber technology, at least the fiber that can be used in a premium fly rod, just has not changed much in the past few years.

But we have a number of new rod designers in our rod shop, young guys who look at things differently than older, more traditional designers. They knew that all the action in composite design is not in fiber technology but in the prepreg and scrim technology—in other words, the stuff that holds the graphite fibers together and the material that gives a finished rod hoop strength, or resistance to crushing. If you can lessen the amount of graphite fiber you need by using improved resin systems, and if you can use a lighter scrim and less of it, you can design a fly rod with less weight.

In guitar analogy, this is a Martin OM-28. Don’t know if you are into guitars ... maybe someone there is. It's an "Orchestra Model" 28 Body guitar. A bright, lively guitar, with loud and honest treble balance ... yet also with the guts on the low end to play before crowds. Handle to tip ... it’s all there. Never felt anything like it. —Kirk Deeter , Field & Stream

And this is exactly what they did. Now scrim is pretty un-sexy stuff. All it does is to keep the hollow graphite tube used to construct a rod from collapsing under the pressure of a long cast or a big fish. Unidirectional graphite fiber can’t do that by itself. In ordinary graphite fly rods the scrim is made from fiberglass, which is heavier, less expensive, and not as stiff as graphite. In Zero Gravity fly rods, the fiberglass scrim was replaced by graphite scrim with an epoxy binder, which allowed us to use less material and thus make a much lighter rod.

This has to be the easiest rod I’ve ever cast. The dampening is crisp, the weight is nonexistent, the action is smooth, and the rod is a powerhouse, casting like I’d expect a tip-flex rod to, but smooth and easy like a mid-flex. I get the chance to try all the competitor’s rods my clients show up with and this has them beat hands down. — Joe Demalderis, Cross Current Guide Service, Delaware River

Building upon our Zero Gravity’s exclusive thermoplastic resin technology, which is stronger and lighter than the epoxy resins used to make traditional fly rods, the designers found an exciting new scrim in the space satellite industry. This unidirectional graphite scrim with a thermoplastic binder gives us the same strength in our rods, but uses much less material. We reduced the weight on our new Helios blanks by 25% less than our already lightweight Zero Gravity blanks. Then the rod team designed, from scratch, new reel seats that would keep the 25% weight reduction throughout the entire rod.

So, they came up with the lightest rod we’ve ever designed. I was pretty excited. Lighter rods are more fun and less tiring, but could this really make someone cast better or put a fly someplace they never could before?

Then I got a chance to cast one of these rods. “Whoa,” I thought. “This is an amazingly light rod and it wiggles nice, but this thing feels really different.” And it wasn’t just the weight. When I asked Andy Stone and Frank Hoard, the new designers, and Jim Logan, VP and head engineer in our rod shop, I found out why. The new material had given them the opportunity to take advantage of a new taper, a steeper and faster taper that was not stiffer, just more responsive and powerful.

This rod is significantly different—and better. It has an extremely light feel, takes surprisingly little effort to cast, is nicely progressive, and is a true 5 weight. — Al Kyte, master fly caster and member of the Federation of Fly Fishers Casting Board of Governors

So these Helios rods were fun on the casting pond . What would they feel like in real fishing conditions? I took a 4-weight to the Delaware River for trout fishing and tried it over some of the snottiest brown trout I’ve ever tangled with. That rod would put the fly just where I wanted it to go, almost like ESP. I took a 9-foot, 5-weight to Idaho’s South Fork, and the most amazing aspect of the rod’s performance was that I could switch from pounding the banks with size 8 Chernobyl Ants and then switch to tossing PMDs over finicky cutthroats on 6X with the same rod—and it still maintained the same control and accuracy in both cases. Then I took a 10-weight striper fishing for big June fish on Cape Cod. It handled big stripers and big poppers in the wind like nothing I’d ever used, and after 10 hours of casting, my arm was not the slightest bit tired. The 10-weight then came along with me to Rhode Island in search of small bluefin tuna in August. The bluefins were not around, but the rod helped me make some quick, precise long casts into the wind for some nice bonito that were blowing up the surface but only gave you a few seconds to make a presentation before they steamed away.

I think it’s the best-balanced, most responsive 9 wt I’ve ever cast. It feels like you’ve got a 6 or 7 wt rod in hand. Kind of like a sports car with a wide torque curve. Great feel in close when you’re just cruising but with extraordinary, comfortable power when you step on the gas. —Jack Coyle, bamboo rod builder and saltwater fly

Our testers have had the rods on trout all over the world, tarpon, snook, bonefish, redfish, and many other species. The universal reaction is that for hardcore anglers who fish on the edge and demand the most out of their equipment, Helios sets the standard for the next generation of graphite fly rods. Personally, I think they’ll make plain old backyard trout fishing a lot more fun as well.

The rod is so powerful yet very light. It casts at distance as good or better then any rod I’ve ever used. —Conway Bowman, mako shark expert and extreme fly fisher

Orvis Helios fly rods will be available in January 2008 in 13 models, from 3-weight to 10-weight. A limited edition of three different models (81/2-foot 5-weight, 9-foot 5-weight, and 9-foot 8-weight) will be sold for the 2007 holiday season, with just 250 numbered rods of each model produced. Only 4-piece models are planned, as multi-piece rod technology has gotten so advanced that the demand for 2-piece models has dwindled to a trickle. Prices will start at $755.

January Reel Promotion- The Orvis Company and Casters Fly Shop

Purchase a new Battenkill Mid Arbor reel during the month of January and receive a free spool of Wonderline at Casters Fly Fishing Shop. Since its inception, the Battenkill Mid Arbor reel has become one of the hottest and best selling reels in the fly fishing industry. This is a great opportunity to upgrade that old, beater reel or, better yet, to purchase a new outfit. Start the year 2008 off with a BANG!

That is all I have to share for now. Get out this winter and enjoy the outdoors. Layer up and be sure not to wear any cotton garments in your layering system. The wicking properties of wool and polyester are defeated by any cotton garment. It is your enemy in winter conditions.

Thank you for your time,

Dave Hise www.castersflyshop.com [email protected]