Sydney Sydney 2 Food and drink— — Food and drink

Restaurants Where to eat Continental Deli Bistro, Newtown Food and Chic chameleon

drink This venue is the inspiration of Elvis — Top tables Abrahanowicz and Joe Valore, names behind some of Sydney’s most celebrated restaurants, including Porteño (see page 36). It’s at the crest of a wave of bars and restaurants in traditionally grungy Newtown. All dark wood and hanging strings of chillies, it operates during the day as a delicatessen and bar, but come Sydney can claim to be night-time it’s transformed into a the world’s most under- bistro. The cured meats and cheeses appreciated culinary are a delightful accompaniment to capital. Visitors are often the fine wines on offer, or a martini awed by the strength or two (the house speciality). and breadth of the dining 210 Australia Street, 2000 scene, which benefits 161 (0)2 8624 3131 from the unrivalled quality continentaldelicatessen.com.au of the country’s produce and often fuses Asian influences with Aussie staples. Some of the best chefs in the world ply their trade here, from kitchens in established haunts across the CBD to newer ventures in emerging 10 William St, Paddington neighbourhoods such Natural touch as Alexandria and Chippendale. Enrico and Giovanni Paradiso, the It is a city of food-lovers brothers behind the Potts Point who are treated to a institution Fratelli Paradiso (see page new restaurant opening 39), opened this wine-bar-cum- bistro in 2011. They were spurred virtually every week (it on by a shared passion for “natural occasionally feels as if the wines”, which are made without F&B industry in Sydney is chemicals and with minimal on steroids). Restaurants intervention from standard cellar can open and close within practices. “The wine and food have six months; one week the same thought process and ethos,” they’re the hottest table says Giovanni (pictured). in town, the next they’re But that doesn’t do justice to the fare: fresh ingredients served with passé. It takes a lot to win an Italian touch. The menu changes over the hyper-discerning regularly but there are a few Sydneysiders but when constants: pretzels (from German a truly great restaurant bakery Organic Bread Bar) with or bar appears, it’s whipped bottarga (fish roe); and recognised and shown velvety tiramisu. It’s a snug space so opt for the window table for a bit a lot of love. What? A of privacy, or perch at the curved So read on for our light snack is required bar to enjoy the buzzing atmosphere. selection of the best when wine 10 William Street, 2021 institutions – and a few tasting 161 (0)2 9360 3310 worthy newcomers too. 10williamst.com.au

026 027 Sydney Sydney 2 Food and drink— — Food and drink

Chester White Cured Diner, Potts Point Charcuterie and cheese

This restaurant from the team behind Darlinghurst’s Buffalo Dining Club specialises in cured meats. It’s a good option for pre- dinner drinks – soak up the retro atmosphere as you sample a meat board with cheese, olives, pickled vegetables and bread. The menu changes seasonally but two pasta dishes stand out: the cacio e pepe, a spaghetti with black truffles, is served from within a Sardinian cheese wheel, while the carbonara is mixed at your table. “Decadence”, quite rightly, is listed as a key ingredient. 3 Orwell Street, 2011 161 (0)2 9332 3692 chesterwhitediner.com.au

The Paddington, Paddington Chiswick at the Gallery, CBD Chicken coup Best for art-lovers

Set over two floors in a one-time Ambling round the Art Gallery on busy Oxford Street, The of New South Wales is a sure-fire Paddington was opened by Justin way to build up an appetite and Hemmes’s Merivale hospitality there are few better remedies than group in late 2015. The spacious lunch at its on-site restaurant. Chef premises are centred on a series of Matt Moran expanded his fêted Rockpool Bar & Grill, CBD French-made Rotisol rotisseries, Chiswick restaurant in Woollahra to Top cuts which ex-Noma and Momofuku this late-19th-century institution in Seiobo-chef Ben Greeno uses to 2014. Produce is sourced from across It’s impossible to separate the create his simple signature dish of Australia, including vegetables from Rockpool name from Neil Perry, the roast chicken (served half or whole). the gallery’s garden. tireless chef and restaurateur who set The mains may be hearty and A must-try is the roasted lamb up his first venue in 1986 and now no-nonsense but the seasonally reared on the Moran family farm has a clutch of restaurants across the changing sides offer plenty in the in the Central Tablelands. On country (he even runs the in-flight way of colour, artistry and finesse. Wednesdays, when the galleries are catering for Australia’s national The headline here, however, is filling open late, dinner is served too. airline carrier Qantas). food done simply. There’s also a lively Art Gallery Road, 2000 While the original Rockpool after-supper set which takes to the 161 (0)2 9225 1819 is an exceptional fine-dining upstairs bar, balcony and mezzanine chiswickrestaurant.com.au experience, our pick is the Rockpool for cocktails from Toby Marshall Bar & Grill. That’s largely due to its (pictured, right) and Sam Egerton of stunning location in a converted Palmer & Co (see page 45). There is 1936 Emil Sodersteen-designed art also an excellent wine list curated by deco skyscraper. To call this a steak Franck Moreau and Adrian Filiuta. restaurant would be to do it a gross 380 Oxford Street, 2021 disservice but the main event here 161 (0)2 9240 3000 certainly is the meat – in particular merivale.com.au the Wagyu beef, which is dry-aged on the premises and cooked on a I’m the wood-fired grill. The menu isn’t right man cheap but it’s worth the top dollar to give this you spend for the sheer quality rotisserie of the meat. a spin 66 Hunter Street, 2000 161 (0)2 8078 1900 rockpool.com

028 029 Sydney Sydney 2 Food and drink— — Food and drink

green curry and the fluffy rice after which the restaurant is named. There’s also a private dining room for 12 to 18 guests. If you arrive without a booking and need to wait for a table, we recommend taking a seat at the bar and trying one of the crisp, punchy cocktails. A worthy mainstay, Longrain proves quality cooking and an easy atmosphere will outlast the fads. 85 Commonwealth Street, 2010 161 (0)2 9280 2888 longrain.com

Acme, Rushcutters Bay As good as their word

This restaurant’s name means “the best something can be”, and it comes pleasingly close to delivering on this promise. The teal paint job Must-try and neon sign above the door hint Sweetcorn fritters with at an independently minded joint. avocado salsa from Bills, But the food and service is provided Darlinghurst by a foursome: Andy Emerson, Ever watched a film only to Cam Fairbairn, Mitch Orr and Ed realise that the original novel Loveday (from whose forenames is better? It’s a fair analogy the Acme acronym is derived). for Bill Granger’s flagship in Grab a seat and enjoy one of the lip- Darlinghurst, the restaurant smacking pasta dishes. The boloney The Apollo, Potts Point Institutions Billy Kwong, Potts Point on which his international sandwich in particular has earned Gift from the gods Chinese with a twist expansion is based. Here itself semi-mythic status since the 01 Marque, Surry Hills: diners shake off hangovers place opened in 2014. Chef Jonathan Barthelmess Chef and owner Mark Best Kylie Kwong’s take on Australian- over hearty breakfasts and 60 Bayswater Road, 2011 and restaurant impresario Sam specialises in innovative Chinese cooking is peerless. Widely foremost on the menu are 161 (0)2 8068 0932 Christie opened this 90-cover French-inspired dishes at regarded as one of the country’s his light but filling sweetcorn weareacme.com.au Greek joint on Macleay Street in this fine-dining mainstay. culinary matriarchs, Kwong began fritters. Brunch is treated as Potts Point in 2012. The homely marquerestaurant.com.au championing the use of unique a religion, and not visiting George Livissianis-designed space 02 Tetsuya, CBD: Tetsuya Aussie ingredients after listening to Bills is akin to blasphemy. is decked out with curvy Thonet Wakuda combines a speech by Noma’s René Redzepi bills.com.au chairs and sculptural Artemide traditional Japanese flavours in 2010. At Billy Kwong you’ll taste wall lights. There’s also an intimate with French techniques for combos such as stir-fried native chef’s table, beloved by the city’s his degustation menu. greens (bower spinach, saltbush more discreet diners. tetsuyas.com and the like) with soy sauce and The Apollo serves the kind 03 Quay, The Rocks: Peter ginger, or Kwong’s favourite: of food you’ll find yourself Gilmore’s menu is more crispy wallaby “cakes” with remembering long after you’ve Gourmet to go experimental than hearty Kakadu plum and chilli. Longrain, Surry Hills left Sydney. It’s summed up by the — but the flavours are robust The restaurant is co-owned by Modern thai temple saganaki cheese dish with oregano, Sydney has myriad dining and the views unparalleled. Andrew Cibej of 121bc and Berta honey and lemon, which arrives options but sometimes all you quay.com.au acclaim, so it’s little surprise that the Longrain has been part of the at the table bubbling in a cast-iron want is a home-cooked meal. 04 Buon Ricordo, drinks list is superb with biodynamic Sydney dining establishment skillet pan. The roasted lamb with For quality ingredients we Paddington: wines aplenty. In 2014 this Sydney since 1999, practically a pensioner Greek yoghurt and lemon is as recommend heading to Simon Armando Percuoco has establishment was transplanted from when compared to most places moreish a morsel as you can hope Johnson’s Alexandria outpost: cooked Italian classics its Surry Hills site to a smart Potts on our list. The vault-like space for and the taramasalata with cod the fine-goods purveyor stocks such as fried truffle egg Point premises, designed by George is characterised by high ceilings roe and pitta is also a pop-in-the- everything from fresh truffles to fettuccine since 1987. Livissianis to reflect a Chinese and industrial furnishings. Diners mouth pleasure. rich puttanesca pasta sauces. buonricordo.com.au neighbourhood diner. sit at wide communal tables to 44 Macleay Street, 2011 simonjohnson.com 28 Macleay Street, 2011 enjoy chef Jin Hironaga’s delicate 161 (0)2 8354 0888 161 (0)2 9332 3300 fusion favourites, including fried theapollo.com.au billykwong.com.au market-bought fish, aromatic Thai

030 031 Sydney Sydney 2 Food and drink— — Food and drink

Little Jean, Double Bay Sean’s Panaroma, North Bondi te mak as e Bright and breezy dining Simple pleasures T — r Automata Husband-and-wife team Jeanette Sean’s Panaroma (the misspelling offers dishes with a playful Woerner and chef Christopher is intentional) offers the most twist Stockdale opened Little Jean in 2015. relaxed and pleasurable dining The airy restaurant was designed experience to be found in Bondi by Cameron Krone from Smith Beach, just a short walk round the and Carmody and offers views bay from the main drags of Hall into the kitchen, where Stockdale and Curlewis streets. This cosy 45- and his crew, including chef Rob seater was set up by Sean Moran McWhinnie, create fresh, light meals. and partner Michael Robertson “The menu is constantly in 1993 after the pair spotted the evolving; not a day goes by without boarded-up space by chance. someone, chef or otherwise, saying The menu, put together by head something like, ‘What if we used chef Sam Robertson, changes daily, barberries instead of currants?’” with options chalked on a simple says Woerner. Our pick is the blackboard. Regulars know, however, fresh-caught saltwater clams. that a few favourite dishes are always 1 Kiaora Lane, 2028 on the table – linguine with shredded 161 (0)2 9328 0201 rocket, lemon, chilli and parmesan, littlejean.com.au for instance. For more adventurous types there is a five-course taster menu. Much of the produce comes straight from Moran and Robertson’s farm in Bilpin, while the seafood is fresh from the ocean. 270 Campbell Parade, 2026 161 (0)2 9365 4924 seanspanaroma.co

Automata, Chippendale Ester, Chippendale Inspired degustation Nose-to-tail eating

This warehouse-like restaurant Head chef and owner Mat Lindsay is one of the shining stars of admits it was a gamble to open a Chippendale’s newly renovated high-end restaurant on the edge of Old Clare Hotel (see page 18). the western suburb of Chippendale. Head chef Clayton Wells certainly Must-try “We picked what was a bit of a Hartsyard, Newtown knows his stuff: he cut his Udon bolognese from Cho dodgy neighbourhood back in American beauty teeth at Sydney mainstay Quay Cho San, Potts Point 2013,” he says. “It was dicey in the before working as sous chef at Few dishes sum up Sydney’s beginning, seeing whether people This hit of Americana in the heart Momofuku Seiobo. At Automata melting-pot approach as well would come out to us.” Thankfully of Newtown is not for the faint- he serves a five-course set menu as udon bolognese. Our Lindsay’s cooking so impressed a hearted. Native New Yorker Gregory of modern dishes made with favourite version comes from few influential restaurant critics that Llewellyn has been delivering big seasonal ingredients. Cho Cho San in Potts Point. Ester took off almost instantly. Southern flavours since 2012; Expect unusual and playful The inspiration of restaurateur His food is designed around think fried chicken, crispy pig tails combos such as raw kingfish with Sam Christie and chef the kitchen’s enormous wood-fired and smoked lamb ribs. The lively plum, créme fraîche and pickled Jonathan Barthelmess, the oven – “every dish on the menu setting matches the loud dishes: the caper petals or champagne lobster duo behind The Apollo (see touches the oven at some point” low-ceilinged room is intimate and with persimmon and shiso oil (all page 30), the space is an – and is seasonal. Carnivores are atmospheric. Wash your grub down of which can be washed down with elegant -style spot. well served: Lindsay makes a point with a classic American cocktail or a a glass of natural wine, saké or The window seats are the of buying whole animals and using glass of red from the carefully selected vermouth). Try to snag a seat on best place to enjoy this all the cuts. The atmosphere is as wine list. And leave room for dessert: the mezzanine level if possible: the Japanese-Italian gem. laidback as Lindsay himself so don’t the restaurant’s weekly-changing soft- area looks down onto the kitchen chochosan.com.au expect to find white tablecloths or serve ice cream creations are already and is illuminated by an aircraft an ostentatious wine list – the culinary folklore. engine repurposed as a chandelier. spotlight is squarely on the food. 33 Enmore Road, 2042 5 Kensington Street, 2008 46-52 Meagher Street, 2008 161 (0)2 8068 1473 161 (0)2 8277 8555 161 (0)2 8068 8279 hartsyard.com.au automata.com.au ester-restaurant.com.au

032 033 Sydney Sydney 2 Food and drink— — Food and drink

The Butler, Potts Point The Potting Shed, Alexandria Mr Wong, CBD Tropical getaway Back to nature Colonial splendour

This venture from the Applejack Ramzey Choker and Jack Hanna Mr Wong, another mighty offering Hospitality Group was named are the pair behind this distinctive from the Merivale group, is after the legendary restaurant that watering hole. The Potting Shed attached to the Establishment Hotel once occupied the same berth in opened in 2014 in the gardens of (see page 22) in Sydney’s busy cbd. Potts Point. It has a breezy tropical The Grounds (see below). The The low-lit 240-cover space is a air thanks to the French colonial quirky space was conceived by sprawling colonial-style affair with decor, leafy prints and outdoor design studio Acme & Co to be an timber floors, bamboo chairs and decked area. It’s a lovely option on oasis of calm in bustling Alexandria, a bare-brick industrial air. The a sunny day for an extended lunch an industrial hub that has been a Cantonese-style menu, designed by exploring the cocktail list and breeding ground for creative and chefs Dan Hong and Brendan Fong, French-Caribbean-inspired menu. hospitality enterprises of late. Munch and dim sum maestro Michael Luo, We’d suggest Lyonnaise sausage on Kurobuta pork-belly sliders, gulp is busy but never cloying. rolls and pineapple relish for the down “shed brews” such as rhubarb The Peking-style ducks that peckish, and lamb rump with daiquiris and keep an eye out for festoon the open kitchen live up to beetroot, quinoa and sicilian olives Fluffy, the macaw. their billing as Sydney’s best but the for the famished. 41 Bourke Road, 2015 seafood here is excellent too. The 123 Victoria Street, 2011 161 (0)2 9699 2225 kung pao chicken and sweet-and- 161 (0)2 8354 0742 thegrounds.com.au/spaces/the- sour crispy pork hock set the tone butlersydney.com.au potting-shed for the vamped-up flavours at which the restaurant excels. Remember, the marvellous prohibition-style cocktail bar Palmer & Co (see page 45) downstairs is great for lively post-supper libations too. 3 Bridge Lane, 2000 161 (0)2 9240 3000 merivale.com.au/mrwong

Nomad, Surry Hills Drake Eatery, Bondi Beach Very Moorish Duck in for a bite

While the produce in Nomad’s This light-filled space is a distinctive kitchen comes from farms in the restaurant in occasionally (albeit Hawkesbury River region, the charmingly) unsophisticated inspiration behind the menu is Bondi Beach. It was launched resolutely southern European and in 2015 by chef Ian Oakes, who Middle Eastern. Founders Rebecca had previously spent time in the and Al Yazbeck whisked chef Jacqui kitchens of London institutions St Challinor off on a tour of Spain, John and Claridge’s. A lot of love Morocco and France to gather ideas has gone into the design: the fit-out for dishes including Ortiz anchovies by Acme & Co features touches of with ricotta and chargrilled lamb copper, zinc and recycled wood, rump with baby carrots, hazelnut and Thonet chairs. The focal point dukkah and goat’s feta. is the open-plan kitchen where This seafood is With the help of architect Annie Well grounded you can see Oakes and his team at a little too fresh Snell, the owners transformed this — work. Note the staff uniforms: they for my liking! turn-of-the-century warehouse into The Grounds is one of the city’s were designed by Sydney-based Bring me my crab cracker... a post-industrial yet warm space, most unique venues: it’s a café, brand Aje. flooded with soft light and aromas bakery, bar and events space The menu presents unusual from the wood-fired oven. Fragrant rolled up in a small city farm. flavour combinations such as breads, charcuterie and pungent The service is impeccable Thirlmere duck served with wild cheese are all made in-house, while and don’t miss saying hello to onion, carrot and gingerbread, and a dedicated wine team helps diners resident goats Goldy Horn tea-smoked trout with celeriac and choose from a well-stocked cellar of and Margoat Robbie. liquorice. Prepare to be surprised. independent Aussie producers. thegrounds.com.au Corner of Curlewis and 16 Foster Street, 2010 Gould streets, 2026 161 (0)2 9280 3395 161 (0)2 9130 3218 nomadwine.com.au drakeeatery.com.au

034 035 Sydney Sydney 2 Food and drink— — Food and drink

Victor Churchill, Woollahra Fashionable cuts

OK, so it’s not a restaurant but we’d argue that consuming the charcuterie and other gourmet goods on offer here over a picnic in nearby Centennial Park constitutes one of the city’s top dining experiences. Father-and-son team Victor and Anthony Puharich say they drew on traditional European butcher shops when creating this Woollahra wonder. In fact, their shop – which dates back to 1876 – is more like a Champs- Élysées emporium in its sense of theatre and panache. The fit-out by Michael McCann from Dreamtime Australia Design features a wall built with bricks of rock salt, speciality cuts of meat paraded on cog wheels and a flock of wall-mounted cctv cameras pointed at a juicy joint. But none of this distracts from Continental Deli Bar Bistro (see page the meat itself, which is the first 26) and has co-founder and chef and last act. High-grade Wagyu, Ibrahim Kasif on the hotplates 300-day black Angus and Kurobuta creating hearty taverna-style plates. Berkshire pork are only some of Expect snacky, meze sharing, the fine-dining restaurant-quality including sumptuous lamb cutlets meats available. French chef Romeo and charcoal-grilled vegetables. Baudouin looks after the wide array Grab a ground-floor table if of sauces, condiments, terrines, you can. The service is sublime charcuterie and ready-made-meals, throughout, although the upstairs such as braised beef cheeks, rabbit tables lack the ambience of the casserole and coq au vin. dining area below. 132 Queen Street, 2025 135 Enmore Road, 2042 161 (0)2 9328 0402 161 (0)2 8624 3132 victorchurchill.com stanbuli.com.au

Porteño, Surry Hills Toko, Surry Hills Steak your claim Modern Japanese

It was tapas restaurant Bodega that When Toko first offered itsizakaya - kickstarted Sydney’s love affair style menu to Sydneysiders in 2007, with chefs Elvis Abrahanowicz the fad-happy bunch instantly and Ben Milgate in 2006. The duo recognised a new mainstay. It’s have since had a hand in some since become the benchmark for of the city’s more exciting dining Stanbuli, Newtown contemporary Japanese cuisine. concepts (see pages 23 and 26) but Well-groomed Turkish Nearly a decade on, with a second it’s Porteño that takes the crown. outpost in the cbd and a clutch of Opened in 2010 this clever It’s easy to mistake this restaurant accolades, the quality hasn’t faltered. take on the Argentine steakhouse for a tumbledown hairdresser Patrons fill the restaurant after has a parrilla grill and wine list (the voluptuous pink-and-purple work for a casual drink and meal. dominated by Patagonian pinot 1950s façade of its previous Try one of the tasting menus, noirs and malbecs from Mendoza. incarnation has been kept a selection from the robata grill The hacienda-style space is also a unchanged) but venture in or a serving from the sushi bar, big part of the draw. and you’ll find Stanbuli is a which highlights the country’s 358 Cleveland Street, 2010 portal to some of the city’s finest diverse seafood. 161 (0)2 8399 1440 Turkish food. It was opened in 490 Crown Street, 2010 porteno.com.au 2015 by the team behind Porteño 161 (0)2 9357 6100 (see page 36), Bodega and toko-sydney.com

036 037 Sydney Sydney 2 Food and drink— — Food and drink

According to Hastie, the key to Quick bites his dishes is matching the best Asian food Fast food ingredients with the wood he selects for his grill. “There are With the exception of Izakaya layers of complexity to grilling and Fujiyama, none of these spots the character of the wood is a big are lookers. However, what they factor,” he says. “It depends not lack in polish they more than only on the type of wood you use make up for in delicious and but also on the age of the tree and authentic Asian food. the environment in which it grew; you’d be surprised how much the 01 Spice I Am, Surry Hills: flavour can vary.” Sujet Saenkham’s original 23-33 Mary Street, 2010 Thai restaurant in Surry Hills 161 (0)2 8204 0800 has now been joined by firedoor.com.au several other Sydney outposts. We recommend his first bolthole on The Botanist, Kirribilli Wentworth Avenue. Natural bounty spiceiam.com 02 Golden Century, CBD: The Botanist is a rare breed: a Open until 04.00, Golden dependable midweek spot north Century is where the chefs of the harbour. Hamish Watts and of Sydney’s CBD eat after Ben Carroll, the duo behind The a late shift. Scrumptious Butler (see page 34), opened this seafood is the restaurant’s The Bridge Room, CBD Kirribilli offering in 2012. The speciality – the fish tanks Sleek sustenance old-time decor honours botanist lining one wall will tell you Gerard Fothergill, who ran a as much. Designed by Nick Tobias, The bookshop from this corner until his goldencentury.com.au Bridge Room is housed in a listed death in 1932. Sliders are the house 03 Mamak, CBD: This art deco building next to Circular favourite and there’s also a sound Chinatown hotspot serves Quay. “We wanted a restaurant selection of shared seafood plates traditional Malaysian fare that Sydneysiders would adopt as and punchy cocktails. The kitchen (it’s named after the their own,” says Sunny Lusted, is open seven nights a week – worth roadside stalls of Kuala who opened the restaurant with her knowing for those quiet Sunday Lumpur). At lunchtime the husband, chef Ross Lusted, in 2011. and Monday evenings. place is buzzing with Every detail has been considered, 17 Willoughby Street, 2061 besuited businessmen. from the fresh ingredients of the 161 (0)2 9954 4057 mamak.com.au intricate Asian-inspired cuisine thebotanist.com.au 04 Izakaya Fujiyama, Surry onwards. So from the comfort of Hills: Imported saké and your De La Espada and Autoban whiskeys accompany Deer chair, order a shiraz and sushi, sashimi and Fratelli Paradiso, Potts Point Bourke Street Bakery, Surry Hills experience the impeccable service izakaya-style Japanese Hearty Italian Roll with it and food first-hand. snacks in this laidback 44 Bridge Street, 2000 spot on Surry Hills’ When Fratelli Paradiso opened in You’ll know you’ve come to the right 161 (0)2 9247 7000 Waterloo Street. 2001 in Potts Point, it became one of place when you spot the lengthy thebridgeroom.com.au izakayafujiyama.com the few Sydney restaurants offering line snaking down the street. Expect 05 Chinese Noodle all-day dining, seven days a week. quality coffee, flaky pastries, spicy Restaurant, CBD: This “People were starting to want to eat sausage rolls, fresh juices and bread Firedoor, Surry Hills is a genuine hidden gem, and drink at different times,” says of every measure, from sourdough to Grill thrills little more than a hole in Giovanni Paradiso, who founded seeded loaves. Even the pigeons have the wall in Chinatown, the restaurant with brother Enrico cottoned on to how good the food is, Much like its wood furnishings and decorated with kitsch and friend Marco Ambrosino. What with many perching outside in the bare brick walls, this restaurant’s fake grapevines. Decor began as a haunt of the arty set hope of scraps. menu is rustic and unfussy. The aside, however, this is evolved into a favourite in a now- Opened in 2004 by Paul Allam space and the food both revolve a wonderful spot for glamorous neighbourhood. But there and David McGuinness, the flagship around a wood-fired grill. handmade Chinese is nothing flashy about the food. Our remains the most charming of their Chef Lennox Hastie’s meals are noodles, dumplings pick is the spaghetti langoustine, a six spaces. You’re likely to glimpse our based on seasonal produce. Diners and the like. simple Italian speciality of seafood editors here when they’re in Sydney can expect meals such as hearty 161 (0)2 9281 4508 and pasta covered in tomato sauce. on assignment. root vegetables including turnips, 12-16 Challis Avenue, 2011 633 Bourke Street, 2010 cauliflower and parsnips roasted 161 (0)2 9357 1744 161 (0)2 9699 1011 alongside Angus beef ribs. fratelliparadiso.com bourkestreetbakery.com.au

038 039 Sydney Sydney 2 Food and drink— — Food and drink

Brunch Lucky Pickle, Surry Hills Early eats d-plea Secret sanger ow s r e C — r In a city packed with sit-down Bread & restaurants serving exquisite Circus is part (but, let’s face it, fairly rich) of a culinary hub fare, sometimes all you want is a sandwich. Luckily there’s this venue that exclusively serves “sangers”. Opened by Arash Katrak and his partner Anna Berry, it has become a favourite for takeaway lunches among the neighbourhood’s on-trend set. Try the crispy fried-chicken katsu with cabbage, sesame and tonkatsu sauce. There are some seats but you’re better off popping around the corner to Ward Park and finding a place to sit among the greenery. 6 High Holborn Street, 2010 luckypickle.com.au

Ice cream Bread & Circus Wholefoods Canteen, Alexandria 01 Gelato Messina, Surry Healthy fare with heart Hills: The queues are the stuff of legend but This restaurant housed in a don’t be put off. There capacious warehouse in Alexandria are 35 reliable regular has been serving wholesome flavours and five specials dishes since 2012. Don’t let the Kepos Street Kitchen, Redfern each week. light-industrial location put you Med infusions 389 Crown Street off – this building has become 02 Cow and the Moon, something of a culinary precinct Whether you swing by this bright Enmore: The Almond thanks to several other café and former terrace house for breakfast, Affogato flavour (with restaurant tenants including lunch or dinner, chef Michael Kenyan coffee and salted Vietnamese eatery Nguyen Rantissi’s light, Middle Eastern- caramel) carried off the Brothers and coffee roasters inspired menu never misses the mark. 2014 Gelato World Tour Don Campos. Together with partner Kristy Frawley, title in Rimini, Italy. Dishes at Bread & Circus are Rantissi opened this Redfern hangout 181 Enmore Road healthy without feeling joyless in 2012 to showcase seasonally 03 Ciccone & Sons, or abstemious. The high-quality led home cooking, inspired by his Redfern: The interior of ingredients pack a punch and childhood in Tel Aviv. this gelateria and coffee are plated prettily on the café’s Rantissi brings refined skills to shop is classic mid-century signature range of pink crockery. unpretentious plates – and his relaxed Italian, complete with a Space is limited so you may have take on food informs the atmosphere. propped-up Vespa and to cosy up to a fellow diner but I like to Accompanied by hummus or stuffed chequered tablecloths. that’s all part of the charm. If follow a in flatbread sandwiches, the falafel are 195 Regent Street visiting on the weekend don’t healthy a highlight. mind the queue: it moves quickly. meal with 96 Kepos Street, 2016 21 Fountain Street, 2015 a meat pie 161 (0)2 9319 3919 161 (0)418 214 425 keposstreetkitchen.com.au breadandcircus.com.au

040 041 Sydney Sydney 2 Food and drink— — Food and drink

Coffee Reuben Hills, Surry Hills Three Blue Ducks, Bronte Gone to ground Keen beans Magic numbers

In a city that holds brunch up as This bustling breakfast hotspot something of a civic icon, Reuben opened in 2010 after three friends Hills still stands out. Russell Beard decided to start a venture up the sold his café, The Source, to start this hill from surfer-friendly Bronte venture on the border of Surry Hills Beach. Now a neighbourhood and Darlinghurst in 2012. The decor staple, Three Blue Ducks uses is exposed brick, steel girders and fresh produce – many ingredients concrete benches and there’s also a come from the on-site garden – fluorescent-light installation along for uniquely Aussie dishes. Don’t one of the walls. Chef Ben Hopkins’ be put off by the rustic, graffiti- food is influenced by Mexican daubed interiors; at the helm are cuisine (we recommend the huevos Darren Robertson and Mark divorciados). The brunch dishes are LaBrooy, two chefs boasting world- complemented by the own-brand renowned Tetsuya’s on their CVs. coffee, which is masterfully overseen Be sure to try the bircher muesli. by coffee buyer Nick Theodore. 141-143 Macpherson Street, 2024 61 Albion Street, 2010 161 (0)2 9389 0010 161 (0)2 9211 5556 threeblueducks.com reubenhills.com.au

I may have indulged in too many hearty brunches...

Bakeries

01 Organic Bread Bar, Paddington: German baker Andreas Rost opened this bakery in a garage in Paddington in 2011. Using a wood-fired Cornersmith, Marrickville oven from his homeland, Single Origin Roasters, Surry Hills Neighbourhood favourite he turns out high-quality Daily grind sourdough and pretzels. James Grant and Alex Elliott- organicbreadbar.com.au A pioneer of the famed Sydney Howery combined their obsessions 02 Black Star Pastry, coffee scene, Single O has been to create this slightly off-the-beaten- Newtown: This bakery is roasting top-notch beans in Botany track destination. Grant has worked famed for its beautiful Bay and selling excellent coffee behind the espresso machine pastries. There are two in its Surry Hills café since 2003. Western wander for some of the city’s best and other outposts but we Today you’ll spot the brand’s — busiest cafes, while Elliott-Howery recommend this one. coffee all over the city as it’s sold Multicultural Marrickville, conceptualises the café’s menu. blackstarpastry.com.au wholesale to some of the best cafés. southwest of Newtown, has The menu draws on produce 03 Brickfields, Chippendale: Expert baristas and a long been transforming. It’s always sourced largely from within This bakery-cum-café sells menu make the visit to the original been the place for pho but now the Sydney Basin, some even loaves wholesale to Surry Hills shop well worth it. We there’s more. Follow up a stroll hand-delivered from neighbours’ restaurants and cafés but recommend sampling the signature around Sunday’s Marrickville backyards (try the choko pickles). also serves Mecca coffee, Reservoir blend; it’s a light and Organic Food Markets with “We wanted to create a space cakes and pastries in this fruity brew. beers at Batch Brewing for locals serving down-to-earth inviting space. 60-64 Reservoir Street, 2010 Company or cocktails at Titus food,” says Elliott-Howery. brickfields.com.au 161 (0)2 9211 0665 Jones small bar. 314 Illawarra Road, 2204 singleoriginroasters.com.au 161 (0)2 8065 0844 cornersmith.com.au

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Drinks Mecca Coffee, Alexandria Three more Top watering holes Slow roast 01 Cabrito Coffee Traders, Mecca Coffee has been in business CBD: This informal spot on for more than 10 years, making it a a pedestrian street in the veteran of the café scene. You’ll find city centre serves a range The Bar at Bennelong, CBD its superior roasts in coffee joints of punchy own-roasted Seat with a view across Sydney but its own cafés are blends, as well as a few worth checking out too; we suggest colourfully bottled cold You’d be hard-pressed to find the Alexandria outpost, housed in brews to enjoy later. a more spectacular location for a lofty warehouse. The site of the cabritocoffee.com knocking back a drink than a bar brand’s original roastery, the space 02 Gumption by Coffee inside the Sydney Opera House was recently given a handsome Alchemy, CBD: The with views across the harbour. refit. The coffee here is always fresh Marrickville-based crew The Bar was established in 2015 in and there is an inventive menu that have won fans for their the centre of chef Peter Gilmore’s bests your typical café fare with nerdy obsession with acclaimed restaurant. His hand dishes such as pork shoulder and sourcing beans. Service at is evident in nibbles such as the ricotta salad. this ritzy Strand Arcade suckling-pig sausage roll but it’s the 26 Bourke Road, 2015 berth is sharp and speedy. cocktails that are the main event. 161 (0)2 9698 8448 gumptioncoffee.com Look out for the Botanical meccacoffee.com.au 03 Edition Coffee Roasters, Garden, a drink made with olive, Darlinghurst: If the lemon and rosemary-infused shockingly white interiors vodka. We suggest you get here don’t wake you up the early for sunset or grab a nightcap coffee will – it’s all small and a lamington (a traditional batch and strong. Aussie sponge cake). editioncoffeeroasters.com Sydney Opera House, Bennelong Point, 2000 161 (0)2 9240 8000 bennelong.com.au

lined terrace are perfect for drinks Artificer, Surry Hills Palmer & Co, CBD on a summer afternoon or balmy Singleminded focus Cocktails on the sly evening, offering sublime views of the coastline. Chef Jordan Toft This pared-back coffee shop is run This fun and moodily lit serves no-fuss Mediterranean by two of Sydney’s best baristas speakeasy-style bar can be fare alongside a few comfort-food – and they have the accolades found in the basement of the staples in the restaurant and bar. to prove it. After winning the Establishment Hotel (see page 22). Downstairs, ping-pong tables are Sydney Morning Herald’s Best Plenty of thought has gone into enjoyed by young and old alike. The Barista award in 2012 and 2013 all the small details, such as the Coogee Breeze (Belvedere vodka, respectively, Shoji Sasa and Dan handmade lighting, the mug-shots pink grapefruit and pomegranate) Yee opened Artificer. The duo of petty crooks from the 1800s on cocktail comes highly recommended. stick to making espressos on their the exposed-brick walls and the 169 Dolphin Street, 2034 Seattle-built Synesso machine and unusual spirits behind the bar. 161 (0)2 9240 3000 brewing filter-style coffee. The The bartenders haven’t pulled merivale.com.au filter coffee is served in cups made any punches with the menu either. in collaboration with Ceramic Tipples include the bittersweet Studio En, an Artarmon-based Hanky Punk, a mix of Irish Japanese pottery specialist. “The whiskey, Antica Formula vermouth, idea was simple: do one thing and Fernet Branca and dark beer. do it well,” says Yee. Abercrombie Lane, 2000 547 Bourke Street, 2010 161 (0)2 9240 3000 artificercoffee.com merivale.com.au

I’m becoming rather fond Coogee Pavilion, Coogee of these Coastal views flat whites This riotous and roomy three- storey beachside pub opened in 2014. The rooftop and parasol-

044 045 Sydney Sydney 2 Food and drink— — Food and drink

Earl’s Juke Joint, Newtown Bulletin Place, CBD pleasures Fresh outlook

The King Street space that now The staff at this ever-evolving houses Earl’s Juke Joint was space create a different cocktail list previously a butcher’s shop called each day depending on what fruits, Betta Meats. This is worth knowing vegetables and herbs have arrived as the bar’s façade, from the bold in that morning’s delivery; only five red lettering to the wispy white produce-driven drinks are on the curtains and jars of pickles in the menu at any time. Even the wall window, has been left pretty much mural changes every six months. unchanged since those days. With 50 years’ worth of bar Pasan Wijesena is an alumnus experience among them, friends of the rowdy Darlinghurst bar Tim Philips, Adi Ruiz and Rob Shady Pines Saloon, which he left Sloan opened this intimate haunt in 2013 in order to set up his own in 2012. Naked light bulbs and bar. Earl’s Juke Joint is atmospheric 121BC, Surry Hills chipped walls give the place a yet roomy and takes cues from a Wine’s the word low-key look, but in the shakers New Orleans jazz bar (it’s named you’ll find concoctions of the after Earl Palmer, a drummer Restaurateur and chef Andrew highest calibre. from the Big Easy who’s credited Cibej is synonymous with hearty 10-14 Bulletin Place, 2000 with creating the beat at the heart Italian food and great wines. In bulletinplace.com of rock’n’roll). The joint draws 2010 he opened 121bc, just around an eclectic crowd of punters at the corner from his first venture the weekend keen to sample the on Devonshire Street, Vini. While fantastic, classic cocktail menu the share plates listed on the daily (featuring homemade syrups board are top-notch the booze and juices) and the relaxed, takes the plaudits: the team sources neighbourhood feel. wine from mostly small Italian 407 King Street, 2042 vineyards (some of which produce only 3,000 bottles a year) that make their tipples without chemicals and with beer gardens minimal technological intervention. Worth trying are the wonderful 01 The Rose Hotel, “orange” wines: whites given a Chippendale: This deeper hue through contact with neighbourhood fave hasn’t the skins during maceration. The had a makeover yet but list changes roughly every two that’s just fine with us. The months and 121bc also contains , suprisingly a small shop where you can pick The Baxter Inn, CBD sophisticated menu and up a bottle or three if a particular Dead Ringer, Surry Hills Whiskey galore friendly vibes make it a top label tickles your taste buds. Pints on the patio pick for a Sunday “arvo”. 50 Holt Street, 2010 This basement bar down an therosehotel.com.au 161 (0)2 9699 1582 Surry Hills’ creative types flock to unassuming alleyway off Clarence 02 Darlo Bar, Darlinghurst: 121bc.com.au this converted Victorian townhouse Street is styled as a den of inequity. This characterful corner pub on warm afternoons and evenings It was opened in 2012 by the team heaves with the suburb’s to enjoy fizzy cocktails and ales behind the perenially popular trendy types come the alfresco. We recommend the Shady Pines Saloon in Darlinghurst weekend. Head upstairs Sleeping is not Pyrmont Rye ipa from Sydney but has managed to outshine its on hot evenings to try to encouraged Brewery or a Summer Gin Punch younger brother and prove that score a spot on the terrace. — with cucumber and ginger. there’s substance to its style: it darlobar.com.au Many visitors find themselves The meals aren’t bad either. placed sixth in Drinks International 03 The Tilbury Hotel, nonplussed at the use of the “French technique is a big part magazine’s 2015 list of the world’s Woolloomooloo: An word “hotel” to indicate a of the food,” says Tim Philips, best bars. This is partly thanks to elegant, airy pub near pub. The usage stems from who is also the co-owner of Bulletin the comprehensive selection of 600 the water that offers a settlement days when a place to I better Place in Circular Quay. “This or so whiskeys. Another highlight is lovely decked area and drink was usually one of the first hurry, coupled with the shared-plate ideals the wonderful library-style ladders, classy dishes. structures to be built in a new these and fortified-wine traditions of Spain used to reach those top-shelf- tilburyhotel.com.au area – so it would always include Aussies and Italy make for our own style.” look dwelling scotches. lodgings too. 413 Bourke Street, 2010 152-156 Clarence Street, 2000 thirsty 161 (0)2 9331 3560 thebaxterinn.com deadringer.wtf

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