ChinaFile THE SPENDING FRANCO’S NEW FEAT POWER OF MULTITASKER JAMES FRANCO GOES BEHIND THE CAMERA FOR A FILM FOR CHINA’S SEVEN FOR ALL MANKIND. PAGE 16 LOLITAS. PAGE 20 BY HUANG HUNG

LL 20 FA 12 INSPIRATIONS WWD NEW YORK

WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2012 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAY

God Help Us The offi cial kickoff of New York Fashion Week is Thursday, but more than a dozen shows are slated for today. Among those calling on supernatural assistance are Marchesa’s Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, who found inspiration in William-Adolphe Bouguereau’s 1878 painting “A Soul Brought to Heaven,” shown here. The designers have also taken that title as their fall motto. For more inspirations, see pages 4 and 5. “A SOUL BROUGHT TO HEAVEN 1878,” OIL ON CANVAS, BY WILLIAM-ADOLPHE BOUGUEREAU, COURTESY OF MARCHESA COURTESY WILLIAM-ADOLPHE BOUGUEREAU, BY 1878,” OIL ON CANVAS, SOUL BROUGHT TO HEAVEN “A Alexander Wang’s THESE DIGITAL DAYS Asian Expansion The Web’s Latest Wave: By BRIDGET FOLEY

FIRST STOP, NEW YORK. Next stop, Beijing. That’s the route of the Alexander Wang retail Rise of Social Commerce express, set to gather major speed beginning next month with the opening of the designer’s Beijing “The opportunity for social com- fl agship, to be followed in short order by several By RACHEL STRUGATZ merce is for everyone to share offers on more outposts. By the end of the year, the designer Facebook. Almost all Facebook activity will have 15 of his own stores, all but one in Asia. NEW YORK — Facebook may be pre- is friends sharing with friends — peo- Wang’s fi rst and only other store to date opened on paring a $5 billion initial public offer- ple are what drive social commerce,” Grand Street in New York last February. ing, but that isn’t the only thing it has Gerten said. “Facebook is no longer just Though not surprising given fashion’s obses- up its sleeve. Welcome to the dawn of a Web site. Think of it as a platform.” sion with China and the designer’s deep personal the Age of Social Commerce. He is quick to say that “F-commerce

SEE PAGE 6 THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY Wade Gerten, co-founder and chief kind of got an ‘F’ — coming from the executive offi cer of technology solu- team who built it” of early retail ef- tion provider 8thBridge, said at the forts on the site, where brands were WWD Digital Forum at the Asia Society just pushing out deals to users, but Museum here that the future of e-com- this is changing rapidly. In the three merce lies within reshaping the experi- years since pioneering F-commerce, ence completely around people, which Gerten said he’s learned what works is likely to be the year’s key buzzwords and what doesn’t when it comes to sell- in the online world. ing on the medium. For example, very The fi rm, which specializes in cre- few people were actually checking out ating social commerce platforms, on Facebook, and special or exclusive pioneered Facebook commerce, or offers for product are most effective F-commerce, launching the fi rst retail when only available to fans. product ever sold on the medium in It’s Facebook’s new open graph or 2009 with 1-800-Flowers.com. SEE PAGE 14 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2012 WWD.COM Wal-Mart Names Foran China Head THE BRIEFING BOX Stocker noted that Foran oversaw Woolworths By AMANDA KAISER AND LARA FARRAR e-commerce business, which could “tie in with Wal- IN TODAY’S WWD Mart’s recent investment in Yihaodian.” WAL-MART STORES INC. SAID Tuesday that it has In May 2011, Wal-Mart said it had purchased named Greg Foran, currently senior vice president a minority stake in the holding company of Wade Gerten of 8thBridge said at the WWD Digital Forum for Wal-Mart International as president and chief Yihaodian, a Chinese e-commerce site. Taobao is that the future of e-commerce lies within reshaping the executive officer of Wal-Mart China. the country’s largest e-commerce platform. experience completely around people. PAGE 1 The move brings fresh leadership to Wal-Mart “They are flying in a guy who is on his first trip to China after its former ceo and senior vice presi- China. I don’t know what that tells you,” said Paul dent for human resources resigned in October in French, chief China analyst for the market research The Alexander Wang retail express is set to gather the wake of a food-labeling scandal involving pork. firm Mintel. “I guess what they are trying to do is send major speed with the opening next month of the The company, the world’s largest retailer, said in a clean slate. To send a message to the government designer’s Beijing flagship. PAGE 1 Foran will relocate to China pending work visa ap- that they are sending in someone whose hands were proval, and assume his new role effective March not in the mucky pie [of the food safety scandal].” 1. He joined Wal-Mart in October 2011. Prior to While the pork-labeling scandal may have dam- Wal-Mart named a new head of its China operations, that, he worked his way up the corporate ranks at aged Wal-Mart’s relationship with the Chinese gov- although the choice surprised some analysts. PAGE 2 Woolworths Supermarket division in ernment, French said it did little to tarnish the com- and Australia and spent time at other Woolworths pany’s image in the minds of Chinese consumers, who subsidiaries dealing with discount department face an almost constant barrage of food safety issues Accessories and men’s wear drove luxury sales in 2011, stores and electronics retailers. across the country. Rather, he said, one of the compa- and experts see more of the same this year. PAGE 2 Wal-Mart entered the Chinese market and ny’s ongoing challenges centers around localization. opened its first Supercenter and Sam’s Club in In other Wal-Mart news, the company’s Canadian Shenzhen in 1996. As of the end of January, it had division said Tuesday it would invest $750 million Project Global Trade Show is revamping its women’s over 370 units in 140 cities. Analysts said Foran’s to complete 73 new projects, including building section to find a winning formula. PAGE 8 appointment is surprising given that he has no new stores and expanding, remodeling or relo- prior experience in China and also a relatively cating existing units. The record expansion will short track record with the company. add 4.6 million square feet to Wal-Mart ’s E-commerce is marching toward a 20 “It is interesting that the new ceo is neither a operations this year. Wal-Mart Canada operates percent share of specialty apparel sales, Wal-Mart person nor a China hand, but that Wal- 333 stores, including 164 Supercenters. Tuesday’s and still picking up steam. PAGE 15 Mart decided to bring in someone from the out- announcement will bring the store count to more side,” said Torsten Stocker, a Shanghai-based than 375. More than half of the new projects are ex- partner at Monitor Group, a global research firm. pected to be Supercenters, with the remainder, dis- James Franco talks about his directorial “Maybe this points towards a greater focus on count stores. Included in the 73 projects are most debut, a film for denim brand Seven For strengthening core retail capabilities and a slightly of the 39 former Zellers locations that Wal-Mart All Mankind. PAGE 16 ▼ slower expansion path.” Canada bought leasehold rights to in June.

The entire magazine industry was down an average of 10 percent on the newsstand and some fashion titles fell Swatch Posts 18.1% Rise in Profit for Year much harder, according to Audit Bureau — Swatch Group said net profit rose percent amid disappointment that it planned of Circulations. PAGE 17 18.1 percent in 2011 as the world’s largest a dividend increase of just 15 percent, cou- watchmaker posted record results, and pled with concerns over a 78.7 percent drop the trend continued in January with in operating profit at the group’s electronic Marc Jacobs pays tribute to “South Park” by featuring double-digit growth in the watches systems division, which was particularly pe- the characters on T-shirts to benefit The Interdisciplinary and jewelry segment. nalized by the strong franc. Melanoma Cooperative Group at New York University. PAGE 19 The parent of brands includ- By contrast, the production division — ing Omega, Breguet, Blancpain and which manufacturers components — posted Swatch said net profit last year rose to a 64.3 percent rise in operating profit and ex- Young designer Liu Lu spotlights China’s open secret of 1.2 billion Swiss francs, or $1.4 billion, pects growth to continue in 2012. young mistresses by featuring Chinese Lolitas in her latest despite a strong Swiss franc and a sharp As previously reported, Swatch Group’s ad campaign for Luvon. PAGE 20 rise in the price of gold and diamonds. gross sales jumped 21.7 percent at constant “The strength of the group’s brands was exchange to 7.14 billion Swiss francs, or $8.08 noticeable not only in Greater China but billion, in 2011. All dollar rates are calculated Avril Lavigne has linked with JustFab.com for her Abbey in all other regions as well, and in the very at average exchange rates for the period to Dawn line of clothes and . PAGE 20 strong growth rates across all price seg- which they refer. ments, which have been leading to major ca- The company created more than 2,800 jobs in pacity bottlenecks at times,” Swatch stated. Omega’s 2011, raising the number of employees worldwide Levi’s chief executive officer Chip Bergh wants to see Shares in Swatch Group closed down 4 Ladymatic. to more than 28,000. — JOELLE DIDERICH the Dockers brand get back to $1.2 billion in sales after a lengthy decline. PAGE 20 Accessories, Men’s Wear Propel Luxe Spending MILAN — Accessories, mainly bags and shoes, and and not through an increase in royalties.” Year-end ON WWD.COM men’s wear drove luxury goods spending last year, and figures are to be released in March, and will show industry executives predict more of the same in 2012. a return to profitability for the Milan-based fashion In 2011, the U.S. remained the biggest market for house. Ferraris forecast double-digit growth in 2012, Patrons of the Arts: personal luxury goods — which include fashion, beau- 2013 and 2014, “barring traumatic events.” The New York City Ballet ty and watches and jewelry — or 30 percent of the In a separate video, Saks Fifth Avenue president held their annual fund- sector’s total retail sales of 191 billion euros, or $250 Ron Frasch said shoes, bags and accessories are the raising luncheon on Tuesday billion at current exchange, said Armando Branchini, most popular products among the store’s custom- afternoon, preceded by a executive director of ’s luxury goods association ers. “Everyone wants to be a bag brand, but there program focused on “Iconic Fondazione Altagamma, at the opening of internation- is not enough territory,” said Frasch, noting that, in Roles.” For more, see al textile trade show Milano Unica on Tuesday. order to rationalize inventories, “we can’t meet all WWD.com/eye. According to Balbina Wong, chief executive requests, particularly when it comes to brands for Julia Koch officer of giant and China retailer whom bags are not an historic core business.” STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY Imaginex, “China, in a year or two, will overtake Frasch added that men’s wear is also “super- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS the U.S. as the biggest luxury goods market.” strong,” and men’s tailored pieces are “extraordinary, [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. In a video clip, one of a series shown at the it’s difficult to keep up.” COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. meeting, Wong was upbeat as Imaginex posted Bags, shoes and other accessories are also the VOLUME 203, NO. 26. WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, “record sales” in 2011, and was “not dampened by leading category in South America, said Richard March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine volatilities in the market.” Through the opening Barczinski, chairman of Brazilian luxury shopping Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, of stores in second- and third-tier cities last year, mall chain Cidade Jardim, predicting “a very prom- Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at Wong said the group expects 30 percent growth ising 2012.” The same can be said for , New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses in 2012. Describing Chinese customers, she ex- where shoes and bags help drive business, accord- to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S plained that they are increasingly Internet-savvy ing to Yuhwadee Chirathivat, chairman of Bangkok WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, and “knowledgeable about trends, mixing and shopping mall Central. call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. 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Leadership & Innovation

Susan Kosari Karl-Heinz Alberto Kaufman Mark Werts Robin Müller Candiani

PEOPLE STYLEWATCH AMERICAN RAG CIE/ GOLDEN WIN BREAD & BUTTER GMBH TRC CANDIANI Editor INDUSTRIE DENIM/ GROUP LIMITED & CO. KG AND 14 OZ. Global Manager MAISON MIDI Chief Executive Owner & Managing Founder & Chief Offi cer Director Executive Offi cer

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Sponsored by: 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2012

DESIGNER

INSPIRATIONS III) (PART What do you get when a prim girl meets a “big, bad handsome man”? Or when “ice ice baby” intersects with warm modernism? This season’s eccentric inspirations, that’s what.

— Ralph Lauren ▲

“Twice Applied.” — Narciso Rodriguez

“HARD.” — JACK MCCOLLOUGH AND LAZARO HERNANDEZ, ▲ PROENZA SCHOULER “Cozy.” — Michael Kors WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2012 5 WWD.COM The List Goes On... “Ice ice baby.” ▲ — Oscar de la Renta

“The idea of a prim “MODERNISM.” ▲ “New York Love Story.” — Lyn Devon girl who’s in love with — FRANCISCO COSTA, CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION the wrong guy.” ▲ “Time for tea.” — L’Wren Scott — Tory Burch “Vintage graphics.” — Sophia Kokosalaki, Diesel Black Gold RD WESTON, COURTESY OF RODARTE; DEVON BY JOEL MEYEROWITZ, COURTESY OF LYN DEVON OF LYN JOEL MEYEROWITZ, COURTESY DEVON BY OF RODARTE; RD WESTON, COURTESY

“LOVE.” — Elie Tahari “The new Alexander Girard book by “Chevrons, stripes, the ease of dressing.” Todd Oldham; — Stephen Burrows the new Eames “Elegance & Distressed Aristocracy.” — Sophie Theallet documentary, ‘The Architect and “Monochromatic luxury.” — Gilles Mendel, J.Mendel the Painter,’ and the “Fashion maverick and style icon Iris Apfel.” charming love story — Joanna Mastroianni of illustrators “Metropolis.” — Mark Badgley and

Walter and Naiad ▲ Einsel portrayed in James Mischka, Badgley Mischka the book, ‘Art From “Mongolia and the drama of that the Heart.’” untamed land. I am fascinated by — Anna Sui ▲ Mongolian nomads, Kublai

AKOFF; BASSO COURTESY OF THE ORIENT EXPRESS GROUP; RODARTE BY EDWA BY OF THE ORIENT EXPRESS GROUP; RODARTE BASSO COURTESY AKOFF; Khan, Marco Polo and the traders on the Silk Road — and how their dramatic and colorful lives were shaped by this vast frontier.” — Josie Natori

“Today’s confident woman, “WARM who prefers simple “There’s nothing elegance.” — Fiona Cibani, Ports 1961 more inspirational MODERNISM.” for a woman than a “Aspen’s breathtaking land- — REED KRAKOFF ‘big, bad handsome man.’” scapes and the icy, snow-covered “Paintings by Anette Harboe — Norma Kamali ▲ slopes of Snowmass.” Flensburg: crisp lines, the — Pamella DeVos, Pamella Roland contrast of matte and shine and

“Gentry.” — Douglas Hannant

the effect of color the way it ▲

captures and reflects light.” REED KR BY KRAKOFF NEW YORK; AND TEAM GALLERY, BRADLEY SLATER “Eighties Boston and the — Jeffrey Monteiro, Bill Blass revival that was happening there at the time.” — Michael Bastian, Gant by Michael Bastian

“Tarot reading with Oscar Wilde.” — Nanette Lepore

“Irving Penn photographs and the shapes that were created in the composition of each one, whether it was models, flowers or found objects.” — Tom Mora, head of women’s design, J. Crew

“Memories of ‘Lost Horizon’ A trip to Chengdu, China. Both experiences formed, in my imagination, a new ▲ “Fall 2012 explores parallels.” Shangri La.” — Vivienne Tam — Kate and Laura Mulleavy, Rodarte “Live Fast, Dye Blond!” — Phillipe and David Blond, The Blonds “Mystery on the “Modern, technical fabrics and innovative finishes — clean, bold pops of color excite a base of black and Orient Express.” white.” — Michelle Smith, Milly by Michelle Smith — Dennis Basso “Sometimes you need a woman to do a man’s job.” — Jackie Fraser-Swan, Emerson

“The strength, confidence and presence of Egyptian queens and Greek goddesses.” — Fotini Copeland, Fotini

FOR MORE INSPIRATIONS, SEE “The passionate socialite — Paris, New York, , Shanghai, Hong Kong and around the globe.” WWD.com/fashion-news. — Farah Angsana

“Intergalactic feminine.” — Whitney Port, Whitney Eve PROENZA SCHOULER PHOTO BY MIRA NAKASHIMA, COURTESY OF PROENZA SCHOULER; BURCH BY IRVING PENN, COURTESY OF TORY BURCH; KLEIN BY KLEIN BY OF TORY BURCH; PENN, COURTESY IRVING BY OF PROENZA SCHOULER; BURCH NAKASHIMA, MIRA COURTESY PROENZA SCHOULER PHOTO BY 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2012 ··

{Continued from page one} A computer-generated ties to the country, Wang’s approach breaks dramati- rendering of the first floor cally from the traditional retail development of older of Wang’s Beijing flagship. Western brands, which have typically opened first in their home cities, whether New York, Paris or London, My mom was the first to and next, if not in another domestic city, then elsewhere in the West before expanding more globally. tell me, 10, 15 years ago: By ignoring that once-standard progression, Wang is telegraphing an overall business approach that parallels his fashion: energetic, bold and totally of the moment. In ‘China, one day, is going to the bigger picture, his method suggests a core shift in the mind-set of designers coming of professional age now: be the next fashion capital.’ They’re more likely to think East first and then West. With Wang’s ready-to-wear, which is divided into — ALEXANDER WANG three spheres — Collection, Core and T — as hot as can be, and his accessories expanding rapidly, retail devel- opment is now a major focus of the brand. In a recent conversation, the designer and company president Rodrigo Bazan outlined the strategy. “” After opening in New York, Wang and his execu- tive team, which also includes Dennis and Aimie Wang (chief principal officer and chief executive officer, re- spectively, and the designer’s brother and sister-in- law), immediately started thinking about their next retail move. A second U.S. store was never on the radar. “I thought London sounds cool,” Wang says. (The ·· brand’s largest international markets are Tokyo and London.) “But I wasn’t quite excited by that. Then I was like, ‘You know what? It should be China. I’m Chinese; it makes sense.” But for Hong Kong, where the firm does significant business with Joyce and Lane Crawford, demand was high yet distribution low, a condition Bazan attributes to a dearth of appropriate multivendor opportunities: “There aren’t many other choices.” On the personal side, it seems that mother knew best all along. Though raised primarily in the U.S., Wang spent much of his childhood in Shanghai. By the time he was an adolescent, his mother had moved there permanently, and he enrolled in an American board- ing school. Over the years he’s traveled regularly to Shanghai, first to see his mother, and later, also for the business. “My mom was the first to tell me, 10, 15 years ago: ‘China, one day, is going to be the next fashion capi- tal,’” he recalls. “At that time, I was like, ‘Mom, you’re just trying to get me to move here with you!’ But then, I saw the progression.” Shanghai was the presumptive seat of Wang’s second Balmain and I.T Beijing Market. “We The executive team agreed that China made perfect flagship — until he piggybacked a scouting trip there were really impressed,” Bazan says. sense for a second store. Wang grows almost uncomfort- with a visit to Beijing, his first visit in years, so a friend “I think it’s [more interesting] than able when asked if his lineage gives him an advantage could see the city. He found it amazingly progressive. anything else happening in retail proj- in that market. “How do I answer that?” he muses. “In a “Everything was going on in Beijing, whether it was in ects, even in Western Europe and the way, I know there’s an audience that connects with me. music or culinary or entertainment. We happened to be U.S. This beautiful piece of land creat- How I identify that or what I pinpoint that to, whether there together with Rodrigo and we saw this one loca- ing freestanding stores in 15,000-square- it’s because of my background or because I connect with tion and it was open.” foot blocks — it’s perfect.” people of my generation in New York or London — that, The spot was in Sanlitun Village in the city’s The 4,000-square-foot store will I don’t know how to explain or quantify. But I do think Chaoyang District, a concept structured like a chic vil- house the full range of Wang that developing a business there, having the background lage, freestanding shops and restaurants accessible products, including the wom- and knowing how to speak the language, is definitely, from the street, with residents including Balenciaga, en’s and men’s collections, yes, an advantage.” Moncler, Versace, McQueen, Margiela, Lanvin, Marni, T, Core, accessories and Wa n g ’s

WorA year after opening his first store on ld New York’s Grand Street, Alexander Wang sets his retail sights on Asia.

PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2012 7 WWD.COM some site-specific items. Architect Joseph Dirand de- signed the space with a strong, sculptural look, dominat- ed by a marble staircase between one bronze and one mirrored wall. Throughout, the marble patterning is intended to evoke a Rorschach test, while asphalt floor- ing contrasts with the high-polish surfaces elsewhere. Seating is a vintage de Sede sofa. Assuming the accu- racy of the computer-generated rendering, it’s quite dif- ferent — and more imposing — than the New York store. “I never want store clones,” Wang says. “I like it when you go to different stores and have a slightly different experience. The fur hammock is something iconic to our New York store, and I don’t want to replicate it in every store; it shouldn’t be a commodity.” The Beijing flagship is on target to open next month with a major event in April, attended by Wang. While details are not yet set, the intention for the party is to capture the feel of Wang’s raucous, ultracool collec- tion after parties. Fast on the heels of Beijing, various outposts will open in Shanghai, Tokyo, Seoul, Bangkok

The signage at Wang’s studio.

and . Whether to open at all in Hong Kong was originally a Shanghai will be question due to the thriving business at Joyce and Lane home to two per- Crawford. But after “fantastic” conversations with Lane manent freestanding Crawford Joyce Group chairman and ceo Jennifer Woo, stores, each in a luxury a partnership was forged for what was supposed to be shopping area. A second a pop-up store in Kowloon. That has morphed into a tier to the retail strategy: freestanding 1,700-square-footer that will be celebrated shop-in-shops. Set for Japan with an opening party in April, followed by a minimum and Korea, they will range 18-month run almost certain to turn permanent. “We from 650 to 1,000 square feet want clients to tell us,” Bazan says. “If we do amazingly and, according to Bazan, be po- well in the next 18 months.…” sitioned in “outstanding environ- The notion that “the customer will let us know” reso- ments in the best department stores nates deeply. Since opening in New York, some assump- with amazing adjacencies.” tions have been confirmed, some surprises uncovered. With a healthy exposure in Japan The store has affirmed Wang’s belief in his brand’s var- already, a freestanding Tokyo store ied customer base, and that many are willing to spend seemed unnecessary at the moment. on a pricy, special item. Previously, he explains, “Some Shop-in-shops provide “a perfect in- stores might say, ‘This is what your customers are going cubator phase,” according to Bazan. In to spend and that’s the most they’re going to spend.’” Tokyo, a Wang shop opened in Isetan As for discovery, requests revealed significant demand Shinjuku on Feb. 4, with Dover Street for greater variety in men’s accessories. “I was like, re- Market Ginza slated for March 12; two oth- ally?” Wang still sounds surprised. “Great, because we’re ers are set for other unnamed Japanese already working on it, but it’s interesting. There’s some- cities. The brand enlisted the deeply en- thing with the name that resonates in that market.” trenched retail expert Club 21 as its part- As brick-and-mortar develops, so will e-commerce. It ner for Japan as well as for Singapore and launched two years ago in the U.S. only, and will be intro- Thailand, where a 1,400-square-foot shop- duced across Asia this month. “We expect it to be our larg- in-shop will open in Club 21 in Bangkok’s est international store,” Bazan says. Europe will follow Erawan Shopping Mall. at some point, but no one’s rushing; the need to get the Typically, through such expansion, suc- infrastructure right trumps the desire for speed. “There’s cess has a great deal to do with finding nothing worse,” Bazan offers, “than [a customer saying], the right partners. Though Korea is “a ‘I’ll order’ and it takes two weeks to get something, or to fantastic luxury market,” Bazan main- exchange [is problematic]. You need to know how to deal tains that many stores there “don’t have with that.” The Wang delivery windows: within 24 hours traffic — they don’t make any money.” in the U.S.; between 24 and 48 hours across Asia. As for m- The key relationship there is with commerce, no launch date yet. When it happens, Asia will the retailer Shinsegae. Wang’s first likely be first, as traffic research shows the importance of shop-in-shop opened last year in mobile device activity in Asian markets. Shinsegae Main; others are slated While retail is a primary focus right now, it’s not for the Shinsegae Gangnam, the the only news. The company is about to open a sales Galleria and, by the end of the office in Paris and has added a “lifestyle” range of year, Hyundai Coex. home accessories. At one point, a signifi- Of course, much of a young brand’s growth lies be- cant element of the strat- yond the quantifiable areas. “I’ve matured, and that has egy centered on pop-up definitely affected my aesthetic,” Wang says. “We always stores with Club 21 in joke that everyone’s always like, ‘Oh it’s downtown New malls in Singapore York!’ and ‘It’s models off-duty!’ I was a stupid 21-year- and Bangkok, and old when I said that. I didn’t know how to talk to the with Joyce in Hong press. I’d mention something like that, and they’d blow Kong. Even before it up to big, crazy extremes. In a certain way, it helped any one has us define a look to a certain audience. opened, all “At the same time,” he continues, “I think in knowl- three are edge, we grow. We’re much more of a global company. looking in- We have to fight those stereotypes in a way, because creasingly they limit you and pigeonhole you into a small corner of The executive team, from left: Rodrigo Bazan, Dennis Wang, Alexander Wang and Aimie Wang. like perma- people’s conceptions. But at the end of the day, it’s the nent stores. work that speaks for itself.” From Grand Street to Ginza. 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2012

Anna Catherine’s leather jacket and silk tank top with project preview Dylan George’s cotton and spandex jeans. Women’s Gets Spotlight

Ethereal by Sarah Richey and Several women’s labels hope By KHANH T.L. TRAN Sangre de mi Sangre. to make a name for themselves Project is adapting various at Project. TO APPEAL TO women’s buyers strategies to make its show work Anna Catherine, a year-old and exhibitors in a show domi- for women’s brands. young contemporary line from nated by men’s wear, Project “We’ve always wanted to Los Angeles, is relaunching Global Trade Show is revamping focus the women’s show so for fall after taking a hiatus for its women’s section. that it feels like a special en- the spring season, with a new With about 400 brands that vironment catered to that mar- designer, Laura Horner, who will occupy roughly 25 percent ketplace,” said Nancy Berger, previously worked at Marc by of the show fl oor, the women’s Project’s vice president of mar- Marc Jacobs. It’s featuring a section will feature, for the keting and communications. sleeveless shirtdress with matte fi rst time, a separate entrance. “There are tons of women’s and shiny panels and leather Nestled inside the women’s area business in Las Vegas right waist tie, and a leather-trimmed will be a cafe; a beauty lounge now. It’s becoming more and bolero jacket fashioned from sponsored by Youngblood more an important market for black-and-white wool and vis- Cosmetics; a pop-up shop run the women’s business for sure.” cose slub. While the priciest by Molla Space, Farameh Media Focus is a key word for ven- item is a leather jacket whole- and Happy , and a lounge dors and retailers, as well. Jeff saling for $290, the majority of hosted by the Brazilian consul- Rudes, chief executive offi cer the line wholesales for less than ate. Women’s designers can also of Los Angeles’ J Brand, said $70. Horner said her goal was to access a photo studio to shoot shoppers want to see a well- design “great clothes to wear to mini look books with compli- merchandised but thoughtful work as a professional, but also mentary models and makeup. assortment on the retail fl oor. were cool enough to wear out at Last season’s foray into holding “There’s a better focus on the night with friends.” fashion shows at Project won’t buys that are more narrow and Colorfast is another L.A.- be repeated. deep,” he said, noting that J Brand based brand aiming to appeal On the other hand, Project will show its summer collection at to contemporary buyers and to the market with a glam rock er Daniella Clarke, novelty is continued its collaboration with Project. “So I think what the stores department stores. Gabriela line featuring skinny jeans crucial to her business. fashion bloggers and doubled the are looking to do to have a consum- Tamayo, Colorfast’s vice presi- in a colored snakeskin print “That’s what we’re really size of its accessories area with er [be interested] is to have a very dent of sales and marketing, is with rubber tuxedo stripe and good at and what we’re known new jewelry exhibitors such as well-focused presentation.” adapting techniques she picked wholesale prices running from for,” she said. “You can’t reinvent up at her previous position as $59 to $89. For Frankie B found- that denim wheel that often.” vice president of operations at James Perse. Having started J Brand’s cotton as a provider of blank T-shirts, denim jacket over Colorfast is adding more con- SEMINAR SERIES Colorfast Apparel’s temporary fashion pieces, such cotton tank top as a knee-length dress with Project will hold the following seminars at its and skirt. a keyhole in the back. With venue, the Mandalay Bay Hotel and Convention wholesale prices running from Center in Las Vegas, Feb. 13 and 14. $10.50 to $45, the company’s mantra is: “Easy to wear, easy to accessorize,” Tamayo said. Q Monday, Feb. 13 For New York’s Eryn Brinie, 11 a.m.: “The Doneger Group Presents: Men’s European a contemporary label that start- Designer Show Fall-Winter 2012” ed in 2007 and wholesales for SPEAKER: David Wolfe, creative director of Doneger $40 to $300, the goal in 2012 is to Creative Services expand its business globally. To help fuel its growth, it’s cater- 11:30 a.m.: “EBay Fashion: How to Build Your Business ing to customers who seek bet- on the World’s Largest Commerce Platform” ter quality and luxury. In its fall SPEAKER: Nicolas Franchet, senior director of

collection inspired by Woody eBay Fashion U.S. KIM FRIDAY USING MAC COSMETICS; STYLED BY WORKGROUP LTD AT ANOUCK SULLIVAN EUP BY Allen movies, the company added more expensive items 1:30 p.m.: “Denim’s Next Wave” such as tweed skirts and fur- SPEAKER: Barry Miguel, president of Seven trimmed coats to its grouping For All Mankind of cropped fl are pants, pleated maxiskirts and peplum tops. 3:30 p.m.: “SoLoMo: Marketing’s New Buzz” Project continues to be an im- Panelists: Jason Ross, chief executive offi cer of portant venue for denim brands, Jackthreads.com; Daniel Saynt, vice president of some of which choose to premiere marketing at Rebecca Minkoff; Josh Levine, founder of new brands and revivals there. Rebelindustries.com; Adam Berke, president of AdRoll L.A.’s Dylan George is in- troducing a capsule collection Q Tuesday, Feb. 14 called Dylan George Runway, 10 a.m.: “Consumer Trends & Technology” inspired by models Kate Upton SPEAKER: Renée L’Abbé, senior vice president of global and Anne V., who have not only trends at Stylesight appeared in the brand’s ad MAK TIMOTHY PRIANO USING ORIBE HAIRCARE; BY ARTISTS AT campaigns but also helped de- 11:30 a.m.: “The Future: Fashion on the Cusp of sign the jeans. Totaling as many a New Era” as 10 pieces, including A-line KEYNOTE SPEAKER: George Feldenkreis, ceo of skirts, shorts, skinny jeans and Perry Ellis International fl are styles, the entire lineup is distinguished by a midrise mea- 1:30 p.m.: “How Do and, More Importantly, How suring 8.75 inches. Wholesale Will Men Shop the Internet?” prices are $72 to $86. KEYNOTE SPEAKER: Andy Dunn, ceo of Bonobos.com “There’s a huge emphasis on the and the angels 3:15 p.m.: “Impact Your Fashion World: Action = of Victoria’s Secret,” said Dylan Creativity” George founder Danny Guez, Speakers: Kavita Karmar, founder and creative as he explained the reason be- director of the IOU Project; Sean Carasso, founder hind the launch. Still, he added, of Falling Whistles “Every girl can wear it.” Frankie B, the premium 5 p.m.: “How to Start a Fashion Line on a denim brand that helped start Shoestring Budget” the premium denim craze in SPEAKER: Mercedes Gonzalez, director of Global 1999 with its ultralow rises, is Purchasing Companies relaunching this fall after tak-

ing a season off. It’s returning ANDREW FITZSIMONS GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: JELENA/WOMEN; HAIR BY PHOTOS BY

10 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2012 WWD.COM

Equipment’s silk blouse with Insight’s cotton and spandex high-waist denim project preview jeans. Frye brogues.

Voyage’s rayon shirt and Bleulab’s cotton, elasterell and spandex crocodile print reversible jeans. Esquival brogues.

Neve Nicole Miller’s Merino sweater with Kymerah’s leather dress. KE

Attention Grabber

The fall season is brimming with look-at-me color and abstract prints. — Kim Friday MAKEUP BY ANOUCK SULLIVAN AT WORKGROUP LTD USING MAC COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: LAUREN POGGI; FASHION ASSISTANT: JASMINE CLAR ASSISTANT: LAUREN POGGI; FASHION USING MAC COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: WORKGROUP LTD AT ANOUCK SULLIVAN MAKEUP BY

Trina Turk’s Vkoo’s polyester, cashmere viscose and sweater elastane and True AG Adriano jacket, cotton Religion’s Goldschmied’s and Modal coated polyester sweater and cotton and crepe chiffon cotton pants. elastane blouse, Trina Turk denim jeans. cotton polyester Presh camisole scarf and earrings, and cotton enamel ring, Belle by polyurethane Sigerson Sigerson corduroy Morrison Morrison leggings. kitten heels. . Esquival boots. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: SERENA HENDRIX/Q; HAIR BY ANDREW FITZSIMONS AT ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO USING ORIBE HAIRCARE; BY ARTISTS ANDREW FITZSIMONS AT GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: SERENA HENDRIX/Q; HAIR BY PHOTOS BY ADVERTISEMENT

DENIM remains ectiona ofrefl our consumer, taking our inspiration from AW12 sees the launch of a new and wide variety of male cities and the quirky individuals and exciting and female denim, introducing a refreshed offering of subcultures that help to bring it all to life. styles, fi ts, details, and washes that refl ect varied cultural lifestyles, informed by the streets and their scenes.

We are passionate about everything that Without being led by gimmicks or throwaway trends, the we do, thriving in our progressive and denim has the fl exibility and capacity required for life in unpretentious approach to life and to the city, refl ecting the well-worn lifestyles of the people who inspire it. Whether it’s a loose fi t for the secret design. underground rave, or a skinny leg downtown, AW12 Bench denim equips for any kind of city expedition. Fashion and photography bloggers, a grunge music exhibition in Seattle, Berlin Introducing a fresh palette of washes using hand-fi nished street art, underground parties and the Melt! fabrics designed to re-create the look of a well-worn pair Festival have all played their part in inspiring of jeans, the range has also been stripped back with a clean and simple feel imbrued with the iconic full stop the design team at Bench, leading to the Bench detailing to refl ect the design DNA. creation of a collection with a rebellious attitude. Bench always work and play best when they feel part of a team, and the introduction of Burt Damsky (US Vice WOMENSWEAR President) and the opening of a showroom in the heart of New York’s fashion district have certainly added to the The AW12 Womenswear range distinguishes two girls on sense of teamwork. either side of the Bench style coin. The fi rst is a link to the origins of the brand—comfortable, simple, and functional Burt says, “Bench intends to position itself as the brand styles designed for modern urban living. The second of choice for trend leaders in the US, and we’ll continue defi nes an image focused, confi dent, and youthful look. to build the brand in a considered and methodical way This season’s color palette is built over two phases, the fi rst with our focus on cool, independent retailers. We have an reminiscent of autumn leaves against an urban backdrop amazing business in Canada and throughout Europe, and with yellow, pumpkin orange, and saturated reds, mixed we intend to leverage this success to help build a great with wearable neutrals. The second phase is inspired by platform for future growth here in the states.” daybreak on an icy but bright winter morning.

MENSWEAR Contact the showroom for information on The AW12 Menswear range is based around two key carrying Bench. themes, the fi rst combines elements of Bench’s rich heritage with an instinctively functional approach to design. Burt Damsky The second theme is a culture clash of merging infl uences 260 West 39th St., 18th Floor, New York inspired by new media, music, and technologies. (646) 652-0472 Interest comes through in the texture, pattern, and fi nishes on fabrics while pared back silhouettes, bold patterns, and VISIT BENCH AT: PROJECT LAS VEGAS, BOOTH 19031. eclectic graphic infl uences combine with unique attention to detail for an innovative take on street style. 12 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2012 WWD.COM What’s Hot in Cold Copenhagen

2008, but the exhibitors [at the fairs] indi- Libertine-Libertine By KATYA FOREMAN cate that buyers are ready to invest in new brands and the optimism is in general in- COPENHAGEN — Subzero tempera- creasing among exhibitors and buyers.” tures kicked in last week to set the The turnout at Terminal-2 was flat, mood for Copenhagen Fashion Week, while CPH Vision saw a 5 percent uptick which opened with Kopenhagen Fur’s in visitors from the February 2011 edition. International Talents show, held at the The fairs saw a 50 percent leap in city’s town hall. Japanese visitors. It showcased fur creations by seven Gallery ceo Christian Gregersen said a international young designers, with high- wider spread of retailers compensated for lights including Danish designer Morten a lower head count per store, with buyers Underbjerg Olesen’s softly structured fur also shortening the length of their trips. coats decorated with hand-beaded and Mikael Diep, who is on the sales team embroidered strips, and British milliner of Surface to Air, which showed at Gallery, Alexandra Gold’s collection of sporty said: “Lots of stores in Sweden are strug- black fur caps fitted with swishing horse- gling. It’s a particularly tough market to hair ponytails. penetrate, as there are so many Swedish brands out there. It’s difficult to get buy- ers to take on a new brand for their store, especially when there are customs taxes and shipping costs to factor in.” Nonetheless, Scandinavia has become the brand’s third biggest market after France and the U.S., Diep said. The most upbeat labels and retailers were those specializing in tight, quality collections reflecting a unique point of view. And ambitions were scaled back amid a mostly dreary retail environment in Scandinavia. “We only do what we feel we do best,” said Therese Lilja, co-founder of Svensson, whose line had evolved to in- clude textured medium-heavy knits plus a couple of new styles, such as a Chelsea and an . “Growth is not a criteria for success; you can lose yourself in growth,” said Rasmus Bak, co-founder of rising Danish FOR MORE IMAGES FROM label Libertine-Libertine, which has its COPENHAGEN, SEE roots in surf and skate culture. Bak spoke of a new movement of inde- WWD.com/ pendent boutiques in Denmark, such as fashion-news. Wardrobe 19 and Kask, offering a more intimate experience than established local multibrand stores like Wood Wood and Norse Projects. “They’re really fo- cused, concentrating on a certain vibe, speaking to a like-minded family of cus- tomers — some great small projects have come out of this [difficult economic pe- Carin riod],” said Bak. “Everyone has always Wester tried to communicate to the masses, this offers a different perspective.” Founded by designers Sabine Rolf ’s former head designer for women’s men’s wear market, key men’s players, Niemann and Milla Villhoth, Kask wear, Erik Frenken. such as Norse Projects, cited strong busi- started out in basement digs in one Rimi Sato, a merchandiser for Nojess ness despite sluggish outerwear sales. of the more underground parts of in Tokyo, liked the accessories on offer, The brand presented its bag collabora- the city. During fashion week, Kask such as Epice’s scarves “with their lovely tion with Ally Capellino, as well as a lim- opened a store on Copenhagen’s trendy smoky colors” and Cornelia Webb’s body ited edition Elka raincoat designed by Pilestraede, next to the new Acne store. jewelry. Sato had come to Copenhagen to French creative agency MJC. Kask specializes in Scandinavian design- scout lesser-known brands. At the Terminal-2 trade show, which ers, with the owners’ own fashion line, “It’s important to continually sur- is more streetwear and denim oriented, Villmann, soon be added. prise the customer, to raise their mo- Penny Armstrong, a buyer for soon-to-be- Villhoth’s ones to watch include rale,” she said. launched British men’s e-tailer Influence, Sweden’s Carin Wester; Danish design- Trendy brand Swedish said she’d seen lots of “fresh” takes on ers Anne Sofie Madsen and Stine Riis, Hasbeens presented its first full bag Aztec and Fair Isle trends, with a lot of who was recently announced as the win- line, which included a satchel-style textured fabrics with flecks and slubs. She ner of the first annual international H&M men’s backpack. liked Humor and Voi’s collections. “There Design Award, and Danish fashion-art Reflecting the global health of the were a lot of pastels coming through on collective Moon Spoon Saloon, whose jackets as well as jersey,” she said. playful black and white collection was The heritage trend is losing steam, inspired by the singer Prince. An image from meanwhile, with many sensing a big shift Villhoth, who visited Gallery, said the “Northern in direction is coming. “I feel like it’s fashion orientation was more classic this Women in going to start cleaning up, maybe get a season, with graphic twists. “Fabrics were .” bit more utilitarian. The shapes will be Stine Riis very much the focus, like silk, different similar but jackets are going to get a bit wools and cashmere, with experimental longer, with concealed fastenings,” said materials mixed in,” she said. The androg- Andrew Grant, men’s wear design con- Other happenings during the fashion- ynous look was also prevalent. Colorwise, troller for River Island, who mentioned packed five-day event, which ended on blacks and grays were dominant, with Britain’s You Must Create (YMC) among Sunday, included a cocktail for a travel- pops of deep blue, mustard and orange. the brands to watch. In terms of colors, ing exhibition by photographer duo Peter “I feel like the ethnic theme is going orange and browns seem to be coming Farago and Ingela Klemetz Farago titled to be big, such as Aztec or Moroccan- through and black is having a bit of emer- “Northern Women in Chanel,” held at inspired prints. For color, we’ll maybe gence, he said. “Going forward, black is Designmuseum Danmark. see the same color being worn top-to- going to be back.” Reflecting the overall economic toe and then a pop of color on the shoe Coming off of a “very tough” season challenges of the region, Peter Fenger or bag,” said Catherine Eriksen, a styl- for outerwear, with the bottoms market Selchau, chief executive officer of CPH ist for MagMaLou in Oslo, which offers saturated with chinos, Grant predicts Vision and Terminal-2, said, “In these a makeover service. Eriksen especially shirts will be the star category for fall. times, we have to focus on the quality of liked androgynous looks by Avelon, such “With the economy as it is, everyone has the buyers instead of the quantity. With as mannish coats and biker jackets over to find ways of making things look new to that in mind, yes, there’s lower traffic at maxiskirts. Into its fourth season, the entice the customer,” he said. “There has

the fairs compared to earlier seasons like Dutch brand is partly owned by Viktor & PETER FARAGO PHOTO BY to be a reason to buy.”

14 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2012

WWD DIGITAL FORUM Making the Most of the Digital World Focus on Innovation laughs, it also proved how the company The Dawn of Social Commerce doesn’t take itself so seriously and is will- Wade The video said it all. ing to experiment. {Continued from page one} Gerten Oscar de la Renta chief executive offi- “In my experience, it has been in- timeline feature that he predicts will cer Alex Bolen and Erika Bearman only credibly helpful to really inhabit these change the commerce experience on needed to show the “Sh*t @OscarPRGirl platforms we talk about every day — to the medium. The timeline now serves Says” video to show just how willing the be a member of the tribe I’m studying. as a homepage for users, or their “digi- designer is to take a chance. We know our social media audience bet- tal persona.” ter because we’re part of it,” Bearman “It’s a digital scrapbook of your life, said. “If you’re really going to innovate, [and] all life moments get added to that Alex Bolen you can’t be afraid to fail.” timeline,” Gerten said. “This is a real Earlier, Bolen mapped out a five-point big opportunity for brands in that users strategy — be innovative, develop evange- weave and take your brand images and lists, eliminate middlemen, move first and offers — and put it directly in their life sell more stuff. “When we think about our story, their identity online.” brand, if there is one word, it would be ‘in- This social commerce is sure to un- novative,’” he said. lock a new wave of online growth, he Through the years, the company has predicted. Once users integrate prod- made a habit of building brand aware- ucts and offers into their open graphs, ness through word-of-mouth, whether it will cultivate “brand advocates” that be through runway shows or talk- (friends will share what they like) and ing to customers one-on-one at the fra- promote loyalty — and friends can see grance counter. Not wanting to dimin- what brands and product the people ish how stores have a hand in all this, they follow are “liking,” buying or even Bolen added, “I should protect my as- engaging with. sets and say we love all of our retail- He said that with respect to wholesale partners.” F-commerce, 90 percent is advocacy Senior vice president of communi- As part of its plan to become more of shopping — meaning that someone will cations Bearman, who doubles as @ a global brand, the company aims to ship purchase a product their friend has OscarPRGirl, made the 90-second spoof about $10 million this year in online or- either bought or recommended — and with Lucky style editor John Jannuzzi ders, and “to hopefully tack on another just 10 percent is push shopping, or and a few other fashion friends, all zero” to that figure in the next three to brands broadcasting a message. of whom met via Twitter. Filmed one five years, Bolen said. But maintaining F-commerce is still in its infancy, ac- GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY Sunday in New York and filled with perspective is an essential part of every- cording to Gerten, but more than trans- fashion speak (i.e., “Oscar does the best thing they do, he said. “Oscar likes to re- acting, he said that getting people to ry to include social discovery sites — greens,”) the video went viral, gaining mind me that we sell dresses and we try interact is the most important thing for such as Pinterest, Lyst, Mulu.Me and 10,000 hits in the 12 hours after it was to make people happy,” he said. brands to keep in mind. Discoverred — as platforms that enable posted. Aside from giving viewers a few — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Gary Lombardo, manager of e- commerce in a social setting. commerce solution Demandware — To her, the concept of social com- whose clients include Tory Burch, Kate merce is the industry coming to the Spade, Crocs, Barneys New York and realization that every platform and net- Elie Tahari — believes it’s definitely work is a potential sale. too soon to deem F-commerce a flop. “Retailers now understand that Although he doesn’t think Facebook will there is no direct path to online con- itself ever be a force in driving revenue, sumer sales. Consumers’ desire to ON-DEMAND it will be a place where fans can engage broadcast and share their lives has lead and brands can offer promotional deals things like shopping to become inher- and sales that drive the experience ently social,” Wright told WWD, adding back to the branded site. that sites such as the above are develop- VIDEO Macala Wright, digital innova- ing cult followings because they enable tion consultant and founder of users to highlight self-curated collec- FashionablyMarketing.Me, holds simi- tions of products, items and destina- lar views to Gerten and Lombardo tions that inspire them. She even goes with respect to the power of social so far as to call this “simple self-expres- WWDDigWinter12.FORA.tv selling. But in addition to Facebook, sion” on discovery-based mediums as she widens the breadth of the catego- “every retailer’s dream.”

Q Immediacy: Flash sales, for example, Melding Mobile With Retail could use one since an app can push the The mobile digital evolution is driving notification process to get the word out. sales offline as well as online. Q Complexity: The more complex the That was the surprise disclosed by product, the more likely an app is Erik Lautier, senior vice president needed. for e-commerce and digital strategy at Q Relevancy: There are some things Lacoste USA. you do with an app that you would He noted that in the mobile world, never do online. users are often searching for the near- Lautier also emphasized to attend- est store location. That’s helped by hav- ees that they need to “own your own ing dedicated tabs for Twitter, Facebook digital locations. Thirty-six percent Saks Fifth Avenue Kate Spade New York OSCAR DE LA RENTA and Foursquare on every mobile page, of brands still can’t claim [their] busi- Denise Incandela Kyle Andrew Alexander Bolen something not needed on an online Web ness listing on Google.” These firms are Chief Marketing Offi cer & Senior Vice President, Chief Executive Offi cer page, Lautier noted. missing out as the current listing could President, Saks Direct Marketing “Nearly half of all visits to our store be wrong on address, phone number or locator now come from mobile,” he said. the URL. Lautier did note that firms Lautier explained that digital is an such as Yelp and Foursquare should “evolving and changing organism.” help improve how a company shows up And as the concept of digital has in a search. changed, so too has its focus. He also said he had mixed feelings “The question is no longer what about QR codes: “You have to unlock we’re doing to make money online. the phone, scan the app, focus, take the Now the question is what we’re doing to picture and wait for it to be processed. make money everywhere,” Lautier said. It takes too long.” Even though those with access to The one area where the QR codes mobile technology can be online as they can be useful is the ability to short- walk down the street, Lautier noted that en the URL address via the use of a not every company needs an app. URL shortener. Many firms rushed to put out an app If the shortener is used correctly, because Apple did such an incredible you can change the destination that the job selling the iPhone, he said. For com- shortener goes to without changing the panies debating whether one is needed, code, he said. Lautier offered some criteria to consider: — VICKI M. YOUNG

16 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2012 WWD.COM

WWD DIGITAL FORUM (CONTINUED FROM 15)

Recruiting for Digital college degree depends on the job Where do online and brick-and- opening. “You want to see good denim mortar retailers look to hire schools for a chief financial offi- tech-savvy, merchant-friendly, cer,” Berglass said. “For the head self-starting, collaborative job of marketing, you want their ac- candidates? That was the ques- complishments, not their degree.” James Franco Goes Vintage tion before an industry panel Payner, who resigned from that included Paul Blum, chief Bluefly last week, said hiring has executive officer of Kenneth become much more competi- Cole Productions Inc.; Les tive. “The Internet is very chal- In Seven For All Mankind Ads Berglass, chairman and ceo lenging if you have a traditional By of Berglass+Associates, and background,” she said. “Things DAVID LIPKE James Franco and Melissa Payner, then-ceo of are changing constantly. Coming Lily Donaldson on the Bluefly Inc., moderated by WWD from a store environment, it’s not JAMES FRANCO’S directo- set of the campaign in news director Lisa Lockwood. an easy shift. People coming out rial debut as an ad man will Santa Monica, Calif. “Bricks-and-mortar versus of school who grew up with the break on YouTube on Feb. 15, Internet is not in our vocabulary,” Internet are a different type of when Seven For All Mankind said Blum. “We’re a lifestyle brand. person that you’re combining into launches its dedicated channel All technologies and touch points your mix. Technology has been the for its spring campaign. Video are coming together. It’s changing greatest recruitment challenge.” vignettes lensed by Franco the language and thinking around Blum has tried to make will go up weekly through the the company. We’re looking for Kenneth Cole Productions less spring, with each about two to people who have adapted to new hierarchical. “Vertical layers three minutes in length and technologies and changed things slow you down,” he said. “You culled from hours of footage where they worked. We don’t want need teams. Look for people shot by the actor-director-artist- someone who just picked up indi- who have are adaptable, col- Yale Ph.D. student. In total, 10 vidual skills.” laborative, communicative and episodes will go up at Youtube. Berglass said hiring for e-com- have the courage to take risks.” com/7forallmankindjeans. merce or digital commerce is coun- For Blum, one of the key assets “The videos have a vintage terintuitive. “You have to look at for a potential staffer is flexibility. feel to them. They feel like they ute to Natalie Wood, as well,” “We wanted to tell the story of this with a different set of filters,” “Data is becoming less and less are from a different era, which I said Franco, explaining the title this great, aspirational, modern, he said. “It’s like inventing a whole dependable,” he said. “People think really fits with the new line of his Seven film, whose plot cool California brand. This cam- new sport. The knee-jerk reaction who are too data- and metric-ori- that Seven had in the shoot — a line revolves around a group of paign is about a group of people is, ‘Get me someone from Amazon.’ ented are a bit of a liability. You lot of cool denim tops and jeans,” young friends coming together to who embody that creativity.” A great person embraces change. have to be capable of ignoring said Franco in a phone inter- celebrate a birthday party. The film and campaign were They don’t come from a pure play.” data and trying something differ- view from West Virginia, where Model Lily Donaldson is shot the weekend of Dec. 9 to The importance of an applicant’s ent.” — SHARON EDELSON he was behind the camera on the centerpiece of the film and 11 in Santa Monica, Calif. and his latest project, a film version campaign, with key support- filmed inside a rented house, of “Child of God,” ing roles played by its pool and garden areas, based on the Cormac AN ADVANCE TRAILER Henry Hopper (son a nearby beach and on the A Campaign Crunch WITH FOOTAGE FROM THE City taxis. Visitors to the Web site McCarthy novel. VIDEO CLIPS, AS WELL of the late actor Pacific Coast Highway. Kate Spade New York made could read about staffers’ picks for “The look of AS BEHIND-THE-SCENES Dennis Hopper) and Franco and a group of pho- sure to have the holiday season a hot cocoa crawl, download holi- the film and the FOOTAGE FROM THE actress Nathalie tographers shot scenes with SHOOT, CAN BE VIEWED all wrapped up, and in doing so day wrapping paper or try to win a clothes feels very NOW EXCLUSIVELY AT Love (daughter of a wide range of moving and that helped hike last year’s e- daily gift card, among other things. Seventies,” added Teen Vogue’s West still cameras, including 76mm, commerce sales by 11 percent. Tie-ins via social media furthered Franco of the Seven WWD.com Coast editor, Lisa 35mm, 16mm, Super-8, Polaroid That was one of the many up- the company’s connection to shop- shoot. “We shot Love). and digital in order to capture a sides spelled out by senior vice pers, resulting in 27,000 Facebook right on the beach A slew of creative range of different effects for the president of marketing Kyle fans in one day and bolstering its and drove up the PCH [Pacific types and hyphenates film and print campaign. Franco Andrew and Web art director Tumblr followers. Coast Highway], so I guess you round out the cast, including himself makes an appearance Marissa Kraxberger. With com- For the most part, Kate Spade’s could say it’s a vintage 1970’s model-actress Amber Anderson; in the film but does not appear mercials, blogs, photos of win- creative is consistent around the California dreamy feel. The models Natalia Bonifacci, in any of the print ads. dow displays, animated gifts and world, although the occasional movies that I cut together have Charlotte Free and Will Love; Styled by Alex White, the cast other colorful visuals, the duo il- tweak is needed depending on a lot of weird double exposures actors Elyse Poppers, Tamzin wore Seven For All Mankind lustrated how the brand brought the audience. As the company and super- imposed images Brown, Nina Ljeti, Val Lauren throughout the shoot, but there are their “Wrap! Unwrap!” holiday works closely with global part- over other images, so it’s a real, and Jessica Mau; artist-musician no direct references to the brand ad campaign to life. The aim was ners, executives have learned that I guess you could say, trip.” Nana Agyapong; artist Adarsha in the videos, except for a logo to be innovative, drive traffic to sometimes the brand’s “witty little Franco has cut together sev- Benjamin; artist-writer Marc that appears at the end. “Seven is the company’s Web site and do so sayings aren’t so witty internation- eral versions of the film, titled Edouard-Leon; producer John embedded in the concept of the on a limited budget. The all-out ally,” Kraxberger said. “The Death of Natalie Wood,” Morrow; producer-actor Vince film. It’s not a billboard for Seven marketing effort not only spiked As is the case with all of its including one that clocks in at Jolivette, and actor-model Alex — rather the cast is living the life online traffic in the fourth quar- digital efforts, Kate Spade uses over three hours. He plans to Nifong. of Seven,” explained Lipman. ter but helped boost its database its blog, Facebook page and e- screen the extended version in “There is a narrative and The avoidance of commercial- by 17 percent, they said. mail alerts as a way to bring its May at an art installation called everything was story-lined, but ity in the spots suited Franco’s vi- To bring the campaign to life, consumer community closer to- “Rebel,” which he is cocurating it’s also spontaneous and im- sion. “They came to me because Kate Spade offered shoppers in gether “while still keeping shop- at the Museum of Contemporary provised,” said David Lipman, they wanted to get away from its New York stores free rides in ping in mind,” Andrew said. Art in Los Angeles. The show is chairman and chief creative that,” said the director. “We al- multicolored “wrapped” New York — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG officer of Lipman, ways knew that there would be the New York-based print ads and videos but we could agency helming the go about getting those things in a A Single Approach Keen has managed to keep its campaign. “There are way that was very unconventional Just short of nine years old, Keen Web site approach cohesive some dark moments and shoot it like an art film.” — which global head of online worldwide, sticking with one — there’s a vampire in Seven For All Mankind has and retail Christa Depoe calls platform that Depoe maintains there — and it’s a bit upped its ad budget for the sea- “that crazy little bunker-toed is “one effort, one master data- of a twisted story. But son. “We’ve maintained the print shoe” — has become a global base and one team.” (There is one it ends in a wink and buy and added in the whole digi- brand due to a cohesive, single- global team at headquarters in a smile and a laugh. It tal component so the overall platform e-commerce strategy. Portland, Ore., responsible for the will shock and surprise spend is bigger,” said Miguel. Keen operates via a digital glob- master data for the online plat- you, but not in a Lars For the nine months al platform that now ships its “shoe form, although localized teams von Trier kind of way. through Sept. 30, Seven For with a solution” to 12 countries. exist in the countries where Keen It’s sexy, alive, mad, hi- All Mankind spent $4.1 million “We look at our consumer base e-commerce sites operate). Lily Donaldson in the new Seven For All larious and wacky.” on advertising, according to as a fan base. We are new and don’t For Keen, the global expan- Mankind campaign. Along with the film Kantar Media figures. have the history of brick-and-mor- sion process started out with a and video episodes, As part of the new campaign, tar [retailers],” Depoe said. “[And] “complexity meter,” which in- centered on works inspired by a print campaign will break in Lipman redesigned the Seven in 2008, a directorial thought and volved in-depth research about the Fifties movie “Rebel Without March magazines, including For All Mankind logo. “It wasn’t lightbulb went off, and we real- the region it planned to enter, a Cause”— which starred Vogue, Vanity Fair, Elle, InStyle, very premium, it was childish. We ized we had to go digital.” followed by building a team and Natalie Wood and James Dean W, V, Marie Claire, GQ, Details made the ‘7’ beautiful and sen- According to Depoe, everything learning the “fun stuff ” about the — and features contributions and Nylon. Lipman created 17 sual,” said Lipman of the updated starts with knowing your brand’s local community. (For example, from Ed Ruscha, Paul McCarthy, different layouts, incorporating logo, giving credit to Ryan Jones at DNA, and from here, Keen opened German consumers like to wear Damon McCarthy, Aaron Young a panoply of shots from the film his agency for the logo treatment. online access to its fans in a way socks with their so a “see and Harmony Korine. shoot, and every magazine will Franco, Lipman and Miguel that was inclusive — of fans, retail- [shoe] with ” option was in- Franco has a long-standing run a unique layout. have plans to work together on ers and employees — and incre- corporated on to the site.) Depoe interest in the movie, having “It is critical in today’s world the fall Seven For All Mankind mental (“We want people wearing said that “hot coals” — such as once played Dean and directed to create a body of work that can campaign. Franco, who has ap- Keen. We don’t care where they get cultural differences, taxes, return a biographical movie about Sal stand across digital, print and peared in Gucci fragrance and them from — as long as it’s from an laws, regulations, logistics and Mineo, who played a supporting social media,” explained Barry tailored clothing ads, said he is authorized dealer.”) payment methods — also must be role in the movie. “Part of me Miguel, president of Seven For also in talks to direct something Perhaps most importantly, addressed. — RACHEL STRUGATZ wanted to fill it out and do a trib- All Mankind, a unit of VF Corp. for that brand, as well. WWD STYLE AVRIL’S ADDITION: Abbey Dawn links with JustFab.com for accessories. PAGE 20 MEMO PAD WALKING BY THE NEWSSTAND: Sarah Jessica Parker, Jennifer Aniston and Heidi Klum were big sellers for fashion magazines during the second half of last year but apparently not big enough to stop a at newsstand. The entire magazine industry was down an average of 10 percent — no doubt partially a function of the struggling economy — and some fashion titles fell much harder, according to Audit Bureau of Circulations. Elle reported the biggest decline in the fashion category, down 18.3 percent to an average 241,339 copies. InStyle had the highest single-copy average during the period, with 561,630, but that fi gure represented a 14.2 percent decrease over the prior year. Allure’s second half was down 13.3 percent to 130,901, and Glamour was at the industry average, selling an average of 469,544 copies. Marie Claire wasn’t far behind, falling 8.9 percent to 231,054 and W’s newsstand was down 7.4 percent to 20,426. Harper’s Bazaar’s single-copy sales fell 7.3 percent to 147,194. Vogue was down 5.6 percent to 348,850 and Lucky down 5.5 percent to 159,266. Beyond the fashion category, there were even more notable declines. Vanity Fair reported a 20 percent drop on newsstand, to 323,946, during the half. A Vanity Fair spokeswoman attributed this to the fact that the second half of 2010 was the best performing period in the magazine’s history. Then there’s O, The Oprah Magazine. The Hearst title fell 32 percent to average 413,363 copies on newsstand. This follows recent news that the magazine dropped 24 percent in advertising during the fi rst quarter of this year, according to Media Industry Newsletter. Clearly things aren’t going well for Oprah right now, given her struggling TV network. But there may be a glimmer of hope: the January issue is up 28 Face percent, selling 825,000 at newsstand. — AMY WICKS BARNEYS’ UNFORGETTABLE FACE: To hear Dennis Freedman tell the story, Penelope Tree was destined to be Value the face of the store’s WWD caught up with these fi ve models, spring campaign — the second on Freedman’s who are all about to embark on their watch as its creative second season of collections. Who director. Just as he was wondering, wowed Marc Jacobs? Who tripped at for no reason in Versace? Who wants to marry particular, “Where is Penelope Tree?” she Justin Bieber? See page 18. materialized at a party the store was hosting for a Diana Vreeland book. “The hardest part was convincing Penelope to do Jurgen Teller shot the Barneys it,” he said. Tree men’s campaign for spring. has been out of the picture, quite literally, essentially since David Bailey and Richard Avedon made her distinctive face the emblem of the . Now in her 60s, Tree lives between London and New York and devotes her time to charity work with Lotus Outreach, a nonprofi t that works with marginalized women and children in India and Cambodia, from whence she dispatched an e-mail explaining how she prepped for the Barneys shoot with Mario Sorrenti. “I only had 10 days between when the contract was signed and the shoot — too late for a body and face transplant or even a new exercise regime. So I worked on getting some sleep!” Though Tree is the focal point of the campaign, titled “Tree Time,” she is joined by seven other novelty models, including Jane Aldridge, who writes the blog Sea of Shoes; Jessica Saund, a member of the American Ballet Theatre, and Julia Sarr-Jamois, fashion editor of the British indie magazine Wonderland. They were scouted by Jennifer Venditti, the booker known for her street castings. It’s worth noting that Freedman chose Carine Roitfeld as the face of his inaugural campaign for Barneys last fall. Like Tree, Roitfeld is well known in fashion but

PHOTOS BY TAYLOR HARRIS TAYLOR BY PHOTOS {Continued on page 19} 18 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2012 Model Behavior Lucky outfits, casting nightmares, getting lost and fashion week hopes and dreams (bumping into Kanye!). Here, five breakout models discuss how they’re gearing up for the New York shows. — Taylor Harris

Bender at Fox at Alexander VALERY KA KARO MROZKOVA Marc McQueen. Stats: 17 years old; Stats: 21 years old; Jacobs. from Moscow; from Czech Republic; repped by Marilyn. repped by Marilyn.

Spring runway scores: Spring runway scores: Alexander Wang, Theyskens’ Lanvin, Chanel, Theory, Vera Wang, Miu Miu. Rodarte, Thakoon.

Fashion week musings: I love New York: “You never “You always have like eight get lost because you always places to go — some way know where north is.” uptown, then in five minutes you have to rush Favorite shoes for castings: all the way downtown, “My Gucci spiky heels look then back up again.” killer but they’re really easy to walk in. Between castings Biggest fear: “I’m scared I wear flat Theyskens boots.” of being late because I’m a really slow person and Fashion week musings: never know where I am. “It’s just pure adrenaline. Even with GPS on my phone, You constantly feel a time I’m always asking people, pressure, but in the end it ‘Do you know where this is?’” all works out. It’s also nice to see all your model friends Casting necessities: again because during the “My headphones are always year everyone’s all over the with me. I listen to Lil Wayne place. It’s nice when we all and Kid Cudi to pump me Rivera get back together.” up. Oh, and Justin Bieber! at Prada. I’m going to marry him, NYFW uniform: “It’s tricky by the way.” in winter because you want MARIHENNY RIVERA to dress warmly but you still LIDA FOX On-the-go snacks: “Yogurt, Stats: 19 years old; have to show your body, so Stats: 17 years old; cashews, Starbucks from Dominican Republic; I live in black with from Pawleys Island, S.C.; hot chocolate.” repped by New York Models. leather shorts.” repped by Next.

NADJA BENDER I really hope I run into: Spring runway scores: Beauty regimen: “You don’t Spring runway scores: Stats: 21 years old; “Kanye West! I love him!” Louis Vuitton, Ohne Titel, really wear makeup for Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, from Copenhagen; Prada, Giles. castings because they need Louis Vuitton, Chanel couture. repped by New York Models. Newbie advice: “Try to be to see you in your purest on time!” Fashion week musings: “Since form so they can transform First show ever: “Marc Spring runway scores: last Thursday, I’ve had like you into whatever they want. Jacobs. Supposedly he does Yves Saint Laurent, 25 or more castings a day. When I get out of the shower his castings in the middle of Alexander McQueen. Ka at In the Dominican Republic, I put Moroccan Oil on and the night but mine was at 7; I Alexander they make all the designers then a really thick layer of was one of the first girls there. Toughest part about Wang. get together for a whole day heavy moisturizer.” Everyone had to change into collections: “For McQueen, of castings in one big room. this gold metallic slipdress I was going to wear this lace They should do that here.” and Marc had us sit on a mask covered in pearls and chair and positioned us into I couldn’t see s--t so I got a I love New York: “Besides this very Fosse pose. I’m a new mask, thank god! And the food, I love that you can dancer so I walked up and the shoes, they were for Lady do whatever you want and automatically did a similar Gaga and no one else. I was nobody cares. You can walk pose. He asked me if I was a like, ‘I’m going to die!’” around in your pajamas and dancer — I guess it worked!” no one looks twice.” Second toughest part about On Chanel couture: “It was collections: “I tripped in the Newbie advice: “Don’t get a dream, especially since it fitting to confirm Versace last your hopes up. Last season was my first couture show. I season. I was this close to I went to the same client was kind of starstruck when hitting Donatella, and I broke five times. The day of the I saw Karl [Lagerfeld]. I went the shoe! The assistant said, show, I was still waiting up and thanked him after the ‘It’s OK. You’re like the fifth for the e-mail with the call show and we did the French girl to do it today.’” time. Nothing. It broke my double air-kiss thing.” heart. Now I tell my agent NYFW uniform: “Black jeans, I only want to know about Casting necessities: “Today I black T-shirt, black jacket, confirmations, not options.” brought beef jerky, a granola black boots. But in Paris bar, vegetable chips, dried they want me to be more NYFW uniform: “I have this fruit and a chocolate bar. girly-girl and wear dresses.” little black dress that I call And I always have Band-Aids my lucky dress. Every time for my feet.” Runway wish list: “I’m I wear it, I get the job. It’s really hoping to get Proenza not even designer, I think it’s NYFW uniform: “We’re Schouler. I watched this from H&M.” supposed to wear lots of documentary on them and black. I grew up near the they’re so smart and adorable! Toughest part about beach where everyone’s My girlfriend, Caroline [Brasch collections: “Staying the same in flip-flops and brightly GIANNONI AND THOMAS IANNACCONE Nielsen], did some looks for size. If one month you have a colored dresses. It’s been an them and she got to keep so 34 hips, the next month you adjustment. My agency gave much. Walking in her closet can’t have a 33 or a 35.” me tips on how to dress to get is like going to Barneys.” the mood of the designer — I really hope I run into: really sleek for Calvin Klein NYFW boot camp: “I do “. They say with your hair pulled back in push-ups sometimes. I don’t I have her young face. I want a bun, and more downtown- know if it’s working though.” to compare personally.” Mrozkova edgy for Marc Jacobs.” at Thakoon. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2012 19 WWD.COM

“We’re launching ‘Jane by Design’ as a FASHION SCOOPS MEMO PAD brand franchise. There will be licensors for apparel, accessories and beauty. The products will start rolling out in fourth {Continued from page 17} quarter of 2012.” Riley said the show is in a way that is really seam- is not a typical model in look or age striving for authenticity, from the Hermès less. We have used it to take — she’s 57. When asked if this was Birkin bag Jane carries — on loan from photos, make notes on them a deliberate move to court the core Hermès — to the brand shout-outs like and share it with the team, Barneys customer, Freedman said, Jimmy Choo. Cameos by fashion insiders and I can imagine we will “It was not a commercial decision. will go further to help establish its continue to do this, especial- There was never a discussion about credibility. Among those in line to appear ly when we are traveling,” the commercial advantages of working as themselves this season are Stefano Rag & Bone co-founder David with women of all ages. But I think it’s Tonchi, editor of W magazine, Patricia Field, Neville told WWD. important to recognize women of all ages , Nanette Lepore and Betsey AT&T and Samsung Mobile in our culture.” Johnson. — SHARON EDELSON will serve as the title sponsor Lest Tree get all the attention, of the Rag & Bone men’s and Barneys also has a men’s AMERICANA-A-GO-GO: women’s shows during New campaign. It was shot Americana Manhasset’s Marc Jacobs’ “South Park” T-shirts. York Fashion Week, and Rag by Juergen Teller in New spring catalogue, “I & Bone will host the Galaxy Orleans, where they used Love Americana,” MARC HEADS SOUTH: Cartman’s finally Note launch party on Feb. 14. Miss Pussycat’s Puppets could also be called getting his big fashion debut, courtesy Pushing its fashion week foray a as the background for “ and Simon of his pal Marc Jacobs. The designer — step further, Samsung has also tapped much of the shoot, which Nessman Play House” who was immortalized as “Muscle Man bloggers Bryanboy, Susie Bubble of Style features traditional male in a Neutra-style ranch Marc” on a “South Park” episode in Bubble and Leandra Medine of the Man models of the young filled with spot-on November — is paying tribute to the Repeller for an exclusive partner- and pretty sort. Both Fifties details such as Comedy Central troupe by featuring ship in which they will use Samsung campaigns drop in March orange shag carpets, the characters on T-shirts to benefit Galaxy Notes to tweet and post photo issues of magazines rotary dial phones The Interdisciplinary Melanoma and video content from fashion week including Vogue and Vanity and mid-century Cooperative Group at New York events they attend. — KRISTI GARCED Fair. The at-home mailer furniture. “We wait for University. The cartoon trio — Eric date is Feb. 15. the collections to come Cartman, Randy Marsh and Butters — JESSICA IREDALE out before deciding Carmen Stotch — are the latest subjects of Karlie Kloss “plays house.” on a theme,” said Jacobs and Marc Jacobs president Marc Valvo DESIGNING TEENAGER: ABC Andrea Sanders, senior Robert Duffy’s T-shirt collaboration and his staff. Family’s new series “” vice president and creative director. with the charity, all of which have has teamed up with Bloomingdale’s, “There was this incredible Fifties vibe featured a disrobed subject with the which wants to attract Jane’s generation throughout the collections. We decided strategically placed message “Protect of millennials. Store windows this to do it in a big, fun way. Instead of being Your Largest Organ” emblazoned on week feature looks inspired by “Jane” mild and safe, we went over the top.” the front. Past participants have been and curated by Stephanie Solomon, A video about of the making of the more of the sex-symbol variety, includ- Bloomingdale’s fashion director of ready- catalogue will be on the Americana’s ing Naomi Campbell, Dita Von Teese and to-wear. “We believe our customer relates Web site and a 30-second black-and- Victoria Beckham. Interestingly, it seems to ‘Jane,’” Solomon said. Bloomingdale’s white commercial will air on taxicab those ladies were more lax about their ZEF NIKOLLA PHOTO BY tonight is hosting an event with a pop-up TVs during New York Fashion Week. nude shots than the South Park cre- RING THAT BELL: Carmen Marc Valvo fashion exhibit inspired by the series Charles DeCaro, creative director of ad ators were about their characters. helped celebrate New York Fashion with Erica Dasher and Andie MacDowell agency Laspata DeCaro, said, “I was “They’re very, very cautious about Week by ringing the Nasdaq closing expected to be in attendance. going to go the John Cheever suburban, collaborations,” said Duffy of Trey bell Tuesday. Valvo, who’s now closed ABC Family has more designs on ‘Stepford Wives’ route. There was so Parker and Matt Stone. “We’ve worked the electronic marketplace about “Jane.” “‘Jane’ is a fashion brand ABC much color that instead of John Cheever with so many artists in the past, and half a dozen times, will show his fall Family is trying to propel out there,” said we did June Cleever. It was recreating a I’d say Trey and Matt are the most pro- collection at Nasdaq’s Times Square Michael Riley, president of ABC Family. fantasy world in Technicolor.” — S.E. tective of their brand. They were so in- outpost at 6 p.m. Sunday. A spokes- volved, to the point of wanting to know man said that’s where the company’s the texture of the T-shirt and how association with the stock market thick the paint is on the silk screen.” ends. “We’re not looking to go public They even had veto power. “I re- anytime soon,” he said. “It was just ally wanted to do Kenny, but they said a matter of coincidence that Carmen there was absolutely no way they were was going to show his [collection] going to let me use Kenny,” Duffy said. and they had a ringing available.” “I wanted to see what he looks like — EVAN CLARK For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. without his coat.” The $35 shirts are now on sale online LABOR RELATIONS: The Model Alliance, and at Marc by Marc Jacobs boutiques. the long-in-the-works nonprofit that — TAYLOR HARRIS aims to improve working conditions Spaces in the American modeling industry, HOWDY, PARDNER: Rag & Bone will held a launch party Monday night at soon unveil its first “techcessory” The Standard Hotel’s High Line Room — a custom case for the upcoming in New York. Founder and model Sara We are a midtown agency that recruits ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Samsung Galaxy Note tablet. The de- Ziff delivered a mission statement to exclusively for a midtown FASHION Women’s multiline contemporary vice will be sold exclusively at AT&T the crowd and was backed up by the growing company, doing very well de- sportswear showroom seeks professio- spite the economy. (No fee) Currently nal, highly motivated, responsible ac- beginning Feb. 19. “The [Galaxy Note] likes of former model and current we are recruiting for an Admin Asst count executive. Candidate must be allows you to capture and share data Jezebel blogger Jenna Sauers and Susan who speaks MANDARIN and has ex- very organized, able to multitask & cellent English training. The job pays prioritize goals. Showroom or retail Scafidi of the Fashion Law PATTERNS, SAMPLES, $35K after a trial period of 5 months experience required. Local weekly A Rag & Bone ad for the Samsung Galaxy Note. Institute, which co-hosted the PRODUCTIONS training period during which you’ll be road travel required. Own car is a Full service shop to the trade. paid $12-14 hourly. plus. Designers we represent include evening with . The Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 You must be a good Administrative Acrobat, Hanky Panky & Wilt. Please Asst who can handle many projects on email resume to [email protected] group, organizers said, will your own. 2 solid years admin experi- work to achieve greater fi- ence is a must. Chance to grow into a project manager (55K) within 2 years. nancial transparency and the Must be strong with Excel spread- enforcement of child labor sheets and work with creative depts and others. Knowledge of trends a +. laws, among other goals. should have an eye for color. We also have another spot without For the fall 2012 season Mandarin if you are an FIT or Parsons specifically, the alliance grad with experience. Midtown loca- Seeking a highly motivated STORE tion. Call Elliott Josephs, Manager, MANAGER for the new high end bou- has introduced a backstage 212-687-0305 or [email protected] tique of this renowned Paris-based brand. Extensive retail experience in privacy policy, implemented luxury and/or fashion a must. French a system to anonymously verbal skills an asset. Full and Part time sales positions also available. counsel models on work- Please forward CV to: place abuse and drafted [email protected] a models’ bill of rights. “In this industry, you will be pressured into things you had never thought of,” Rocha said toward the end of the party. “Either you will just allow it or you will stand firm. And that’s why I really wanted to be part of this, because this is some- thing bigger. This is about our rights as human beings, (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] as women and men.” — MATTHEW LYNCH 20 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2012 WWD.COM ChinaFile Lolita in China DESPITE THE COMMON mand gifts, and these are belief that Chinese women ChinaFile often luxury items. And are sexually shy and passive, the Chinese Lolita is better the truth be told, China is informed about handbags actually the land of the mod- than diamonds. ern-day Lolita. Furthermore, Despite the fact that these Chinese Lolitas are a Lolitas are fashionistas and formidable force in consum- probably an important force ing Western luxury goods. in luxury consumption, Until recently, young mis- their existence is not recog- tresses for rich men was an nized, and even shunned, BY HUANG HUNG open secret in Chinese so- by Chinese fashion industry ciety. They are nicknamed professionals. Magazines talk Lolitas because most of them start their about celebrities and debutantes, but very life as courtesans while still in college. few would recognize Lolitas. There are always lines of limos and luxu- So it came as a shocker that a young From Luvon’s series of ads on the Chinese Lolita, photographed by Quentin Shih. ry cars waiting to pick up Lolitas in front Chinese designer announced that the of performing arts schools. Chinese Lolita is her inspiration for her culturally. She claims to admire tradi- As Chinese social issues are becoming In the Nineties, the Chinese Lolita 2012 spring-summer collection. Liu Lu, a tional Chinese values while appreciating daily discussion topics on social networks, was a girl who was willing to marry an 2006 Parsons graduate who started her the work ethic of American profession- young designers like Liu are compelled older businessman for a passport to get own label, Luvon, issued a statement als. “I am too straightforward for Chinese to express their opinions through their saying that her current col- culture sometimes. I want to get things work. More will follow Liu’s footsteps. Designer lection “investigates the done. I don’t have time to beat around the In the press statement, Liu and Shih Liu Lu, increasing popularity of bush,” she says. “But sometimes, I am also openly warn Chinese of blatant material- creator Lolitas in modern China.” misunderstood by the West. So I am really ism. However, in the visuals for Luvon, of Luvon. Her designs focus attention in the middle — neither here nor there.” the young-artist duo created a very de- on this trend and “encour- Perhaps, it is this combination that tached Lolita with a older foreign man. age dialogue.” gave her the audacity to use a social “We don’t want to spell it out for you,” “I want to create designs taboo as inspiration for her design. says Liu.“It’s up to your imagination to relevant to Chinese society,” Together with the young Chinese pho- figure out the relationship between the she says. Liu is typical of tographer Quentin Shih, Liu has created people in the photos.” young upstart fashion de- a series of advertisements for Luvon fo- One can easily dismiss the Luvon visu- signers in China: Her par- cusing on the Chinese Lolita. als as sensational and attention grabbing. ents are in the real estate “As representatives of a new generation But Liu doesn’t need more media atten- business; she was sent to of artists, Ms. Liu and Mr. Shih are no lon- tion. She and her dresses have already Switzerland for high school. ger satisfied with visually striking works,” been featured in Chinese Vogue, and While on a school trip to the two said in a joint press statement. she is a designer favored by film celebri- out of the country. Today she prefers a Paris, she discovered Parsons Paris by ac- “Instead, they look to carry out a profound ties. Shih on the other hand has already wealthy Chinese man — her father’s age. cident. The fact that she could study fash- dialogue with their audience and encour- worked with Dior on several art projects. The Chinese name for Lolita is Er Nai, ion in English in Paris greatly appealed age them to deliberate and introspect.” It is a sign of maturity in a young fash- or, literally, “The Second Mrs.” to her. Later she graduated from Parsons Prior to this, Chinese designers have al- ion industry that designers like Liu are The lucky ones are well taken care of, New York and returned to China to start ways played safe, staying away from social inspired by the society and culture around with an apartment and a stipend, much her own label after working in New York and political controversies, or even having them, rather than fashion weeks that are like Camille in Dumas’ novel. Others de- for two years. Liu admits that she is 50-50 an opinion on social and political issues. thousands of miles away from China. Levi’s Seeks $1.2B in Dockers Sales JustFab Links With Abbey Dawn Line be reinstated. In addition to Levi’s By ARNOLD J. KARR and Dockers, the company mar- By RACHEL BROWN kets the Denizen brand, which was CHIP BERGH WANTS to get Levi launched in the Far East and is car- AVRIL LAVIGNE’S LATEST Strauss & Co.’s Dockers business ried by Target Corp. in the U.S. gig is with JustFab.com. back into 10-digit territory. Asked by an analyst if the com- The singer, songwriter and Bergh, who left Procter & pany was concerned about the budding beauty and fashion Gamble to become president and credit difficulties faced by Sears mogul next month will launch chief executive officer of Levi’s in Holdings Corp., a major Levi’s accessories from her brand September, said Dockers, once a account that has seen its vendor Abbey Dawn’s spring collection $1.2 billion business that’s now “a approvals interrupted by CIT on the online accessory sub- little bit more than 10 percent” of Group, Blake Jorgensen, Levi’s scription footwear and styling Levi’s $4.76 billion in annual rev- chief financial officer, indicated service owned by Manhattan enues, or about $476 million, has Levi’s carried its own paper on Beach, Calif.-based Intelligent “more than enough opportunity” the Sears account and wasn’t Beauty. After launching at to return to its peak sales level. alarmed by developments. In Kohl’s in 2008 and revamping in Avril Lavigne He indicated that the seeds for fact, the company’s provision for order to aim at boutiques about ROBB DIPPLE PHOTO BY such a revival already had been doubtful accounts at the end of two years later, the move online into a brand partnership was erate $50 million-plus in sales planted in Europe, where it is fiscal 2011 was $4.6 million, down reflects Abbey Dawn’s growing with Iron Fist, which, like in the next three years. presented and perceived as a from $7.5 million a year earlier. Web presence and marks a rare Abbey Dawn, is produced JustFab.com wouldn’t divulge “true lifestyle brand.” In the three months ended Nov. extension by JustFab.com be- by Los Angeles-based Blank sales projections for the Abbey He made the comments fol- 27, net income attributable to Levi’s yond its own label. Generation. The success of that Dawn accessories, but did dis- lowing the company’s release of fell to $44 million from $86 million Abbey Dawn’s accessory partnership gave the Web site close that the site overall is cur- fourth-quarter earnings, which fell in the prior-year quarter, with gross collection for JustFab.com will the confidence to pursue the rently registering $5.5 million in 48.8 percent on a 4.2 percent in- profit down 3.6 percent to $624 mil- consist of 12 shoe styles and five Abbey Dawn hookup. It doesn’t sales a month. It has more than 4 crease in revenues. While overall lion and gross margin down to 46.4 handbags, including four color hurt that Lavigne has proven million members and anticipates results were pulled down by the percent of revenues from 50.2 per- variations that will be exclu- she can attract a formidable selling in excess of 2.5 million San Francisco-based jeans giants’ cent in the 2010 period. A $34 mil- sive. “Overall, the style of Abbey online audience, with almost 30 shoes and bags this year. JustFab. inability to cover increases in cot- lion tax benefit boosted earnings in Dawn is rock ’n’ roll, so you see million fans on Faceboook and com raised $33 million last ton costs with corresponding boosts the final quarter of 2010. a lot of spikes and skulls and 3.9 million Twitter followers. September in a round of Series in prices, as well as by a shift to- Revenues rose to $1.34 billion, black,” said Lavigne. “They are Travis Anderson, chief A funding led by Matrix Partners. ward the discount channel in order from $1.29 billion, and were up on bold pieces. They make a state- executive officer of Blank Lavigne, 27, who recently to help control inventories, Bergh both a reported and constant-cur- ment. They are a lot of fun.” Generation, said Lavigne’s inked a deal with Sally Hansen said Dockers had “struggled” and rency basis in all three of the com- “Avril, I feel, is such a punk social media strength is trans- and has three fragrances with that stopping its “rapid erosion” pany’s regions. In the Americas, rock sweetheart,” said Kimora lating into building an e- Procter & Gamble Prestige, was among his top priorities. sales rose 4.5 percent to $807 mil- Lee Simmons, president and commerce customer base for said Abbey Dawn has grown “You need more than a one- lion, or 5 percent at constant cur- creative director of JustFab. Abbey Dawn. He said 40 per- up along with her. “It is geared brand portfolio,” he said. rency, while they were up 2 percent com. “She really has a dis- cent of the brand’s sales are toward an older age group. Price increases for the line, fo- on both a reported and constant- tinct look, feel, flair and style, currently online, but he ex- It started at Kohl’s. It was at cused on casual slacks, were met currency basis in Europe, to $306 and certain elements of that, pected that figure to increase a cheaper price point. The by resistance from consumers and million. Asia Pacific registered speaking from a design stand- to 50 percent within the next quality maybe wasn’t as good. retailers and were rolled back start- the largest increase, picking up 6 point, will cross over and reso- two years. Both online and at Now, it is a little higher price ing in November. Some core stock- percent, and 7 percent at constant nate with our members.” traditional retail, Anderson point and better quality, which keeping units within the assortment currency, to $231 million, despite a JustFab.com’s first foray forecast the brand would gen- makes me happy,” she said. had been discontinued and had to decline in revenues in Japan.