Peak Bouldering mechanical, photocopying written orotherwisewithoutprior ofthe permission page 137 -atthePlantation, Stanage. Photo: Mike Hutton copyright owner. A CIPcatalogue record isavailable from Library. theBritish All rights reserved.All rights ofthispublication may Nopart bereproduced, stored in a retrieval system, ortransmitted inany form orby any means, electronic, Cover: NaomiBuys onNotto Be Taken Away (V56C)- Printed inEurope onbehalfofLatitudePress Ltd. from sustainable forests andproduced according Some maps based on original sourceSome mapsbasedonoriginal data Distributed by Cordee (www.cordee.co.uk) We only usepapermadefrom wood fibre to ISO14001 environmental standard Published by ROCKFAX inMay 2014 Text, topos andcrag photography by and Adrian Berry Alan James Adrian Berry Action photography ascredited Alan James ISBN 9781873341 728 from openstreetmap.org All mapsby ROCKFAX Edited by Alan James www.rockfax.com © ROCKFAX 2014

South Peak Central Grit The Limestone Derwent Edges Burbage Valley Stanage Area Crags Northern Peak

Central Grit . The Limestone . Derwent Edges Burbage Valley . Stanage Area Sheffield Crags Northern PeakNorthern Climbing Information Logistics . Introduction Eastwood RocksEastwood Matlock Rowtor Rocks . . . . Eagle Tor Clifftop Boulder Cratcliffe . Robin . Hood'sStride Edge . Harland Rabbit Warren Area . Alport Blackwell Dale . Raven Tor . Rubicon Stoney . Gardom's . . Curbar Froggatt Moor . Houndkirk Millstone Area Burbage South ValleyBurbage Burbage SouthEdge. . Burbage North Burbage West Higgar Tor Stanage Far Right. Stanage Popular End Stanage Plantation Stanage HighNeb. Bamford . Bell Hagg . Rivelin Wharncliffe . Derwent . The Woolpacks Mills TorNew . . Hobson MoorQuarry Black Tor Tintwistle Knarr Tintwistle . Wimberry Destination Planner . . Circuits . Grades . Bouldering Climbing Walls . . Topos, MapsandSymbols Safety . Access . Accommodation, Pubs andShops Tourist Information, When to Go Acknowledgmentsand Advertisers ...... 434 426 424 406 404 402 388 378 356 368 365 360 272 348 290 338 322 346 272 268 252 234 200 416 376 178 218 192 180 164 160 126 310 102 108 374 274 114 110 96 90 88 80 68 65 62 56 51 40 38 34 32 30 28 24 22 20 12 18 16 14 10 4 Crag Index Problem Index Area MapandGeneral Index South Peak . Staffordshire . Contents Churnet ValleyChurnet . Shining Cliff Harborough Rocks . . Wolf Edge Gib Torr Newstones andBaldstones . Ramshaw . The Five Clouds The Skyline . (V6 Audrey Seguy grapplingwiththe roundedholdsonBeachBall 7A) -page254 -attheSecret Garden.Photo:Adrian Berry ...... Peak Bouldering . . 523 544 543 508 506 502 500 490 482 466 438 436 516 518 512 474 3

South Peak Staffordshire Central Grit The Limestone Derwent Edges Burbage Valley Stanage Area Sheffield Crags Northern Peak 4 Peak Bouldering Introduction

Northern PeakNorthern Bouldering means different things to different people. Some find joy in seeking out intense, hard problems in hidden locations, while others spend sessions with friends, working at their limits to tick mutual goals. Others have a more relaxed approach, ticking as many problems in a circuit as possible, just for the joy of movement and being in a beautiful location. Sheffield Crags Stanage Area Burbage Valley Derwent EdgesDerwent The Limestone Central Grit Staffordshire South PeakSouth

David Noddings climbing Crescent Arete (V2 5c) - page 134 - at Stanage Plantation Area. Photo: Alan James Introduction Peak Bouldering 5

With a variety of crags and easy access all this is possible in the Peak area. The main attractions are the extensive gritstone crags that stretch from Wimberry in the northwest, through the eastern edges and the central grit crags, and on to Staffordshire. The range and concentration of the bouldering is immense and varied, sometimes on the edges themselves, sometimes on the blocks dotted around Northern Peak and beneath the crag. As an additional attraction there is some intense limestone bouldering with fingery eliminates and powerful stamina traverses.

This book brings everything together in a massive 544 pages. There are 3394 distinct problems described on 66 separate crags (compared to 1600 problems on 38 crags back in the 1998 book). We have also included over 60 bouldering circuits which are Crags Sheffield pitched at a relatively low level with 17 dedicated to problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 43 circuits set at a harder level.

The book doesn't cover all of the bouldering on offer in the Peak - that would be almost impossible for a single book. Eliminates and combination problems are only included where they are popular, and sit-down starts tend to be mentioned as add-ons to most Area Stanage problems unless they are particularly significant. There are also plenty of small areas that there hasn't been room to include, but many of these are of only of minor interest.

This book has all you need to choose and find the best areas for you, and to get the most out of your visits. It has enough bouldering to last most people a lifetime. Burbage Valley Derwent Edges The Limestone The Central Grit Central Staffordshire South Peak 6 Peak Bouldering Introduction

Northern PeakNorthern Problem Names When we published the first Peak Bouldering Rockfax guidebook in 1998, we took the liberty of naming certain problems to aid navigation. Since then, a number of other guidebooks have been published, more new names have been introduced, and it has become apparent that it is essential to give every problem a name to avoid confusion between different information sources. In this book we have followed the convention of using the names Sheffield Crags established in previous books. Where there is a discrepancy, we have gone with the more common name and these have now also been updated on UKC Logbooks. If a problem has been documented for the first time in this book, we have made up a name for it. These names are generally descriptive ones only.

Stanage Area First Ascents Many of the problems in this book have been climbed for years and who did what first is impossible to establish. In the last twenty years more problems have been claimed by individuals and some of this information has been documented in other information sources although it is still relatively incomplete. The true record of exactly who climbed what, and

Burbage Valley when, is likely to never be achieved for bouldering since no one really knows. In this book we haven't included any first ascent information next to the problems. This information can be added to the UKC logbook record, which will become available for online 'app' versions of this book in the future.

Key Previous Guides Derwent EdgesDerwent Bouldering in the only really started being documented on its own right back in 1994 with Allen Williams's first book. Since then several dedicated books have followed, including the Peak Bouldering Rockfax of 1998. The BMC guidebooks to the Peak area have also started to include much more bouldering information. The Limestone We are very grateful to all those who have worked on previous guidebooks. The key books are listed below.

Bouldering in the Peak District - Allen Williams (OTE 1994) Peak Plus - Bouldering in the Peak District Vol II - Jason Myers (OTE 1995) Central Grit Peak Bouldering (right) - Allen Williams and Alan James (Rockfax 1998) Peak District : Bouldering Peak Bouldering Rockfax 1998 - Rupert Davies and Jon Barton (Vertebrate Graphics 2004) Peak District Bouldering - Rupert Davies, John Coefield and Jon Barton (Vertebrate Publishing 2011)

Staffordshire BMC Peak Area Guidebooks - Various authors (BMC 2004 to 2012)

Guidebook Footnote The inclusion of a climbing area in this guidebook does not mean that you have a right of access or the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of problems within this guide are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy of the description. The grades set in this guide are South PeakSouth a fair assessment of the difficulty of the problems. Climbers who attempt a problem of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that route. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors, publisher and distributors of this book do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety. 7B) -page381 -atRobin Hood'sStride.Photo: AdamLong Neil Kershaw palminghiswayup SlapBass Odyssey (V8 Introduction Peak Bouldering 7

South Peak Staffordshire Central Grit The Limestone Derwent Edges Burbage Valley Stanage Area Sheffield Crags Northern Peak 8 Peak Bouldering Introduction

Northern PeakNorthern The Rockfax website rockfax.com is a mine of useful information about climbing all over Europe. You can order all of our books and download many PDF MiniGUIDES and updates, which both complement the printed books, and cover new areas. It will also be the main place to look when we develop the smartphone app version of our guidebooks.

Rockfax Route Database

Sheffield Crags The website is also the home of the Rockfax Route Database which contains a listing of every problem in this book, and most other Rockfax books as well - that's over 35,000 routes and boulder problems! Using this database you can vote on grades and star ratings, and submit feedback about the routes and problems. The data already received has been vital in the production of this guide - thanks to all those who have contributed. The current version of the Rockfax Route Database has been updated to reflect the descriptions of the routes in this edition of the book so you can start use it to keep everyone informed about any changes or your own opinions on grades, stars and the routes in general. Stanage Area Burbage Valley Derwent EdgesDerwent

The Limestone UKC Logbooks An incredibly popular method of logging your climbing is to use the UKClimbing.com Logbooks system. This database lists more than 276,000 routes, over 18,000 crags and, so far, users have recorded more than 3.2 million ascents! To set up your own Logbook all you need to do is register at UKClimbing.com and click on the Logbook tab. Once set up you will be able to record every ascent you make, when you

Central Grit did it, what style you climbed it in, who you did it with and each entry has a place for your own notes. You can also add your vote to the grade/ star system linked to the Rockfax database. The Logbook can be private, public or restricted to your own climbing partners only.

Using your Smartphone with this Book Staffordshire We plan to have a fully-functioning 'app' version of this guidebook available in the future, but until then, you can still use your smartphone to aid in getting to the crags. To do this you need to use a navigation app with the blue box coordinates that are displayed with the parking locations. Just enter the coordinates into your web browser, or navigation app, to take you straight from your current location to the

South PeakSouth parking. Since these coordinates are quite difficult to enter, we have included QR Codes on the maps. Using a QR Code reader app like Scan (for iOS) or Google Goggles (for Android) you can scan the QR Code and choose to open the result direct into the Google Maps navigation app on your phone. Jon Fullwood highuponChipShop Brawl (V7 page 116-atStanage End.Photo:Adam Long 7A+) - Introduction Peak Bouldering 9

South Peak Staffordshire Central Grit The Limestone Derwent Edges Burbage Valley Stanage Area Sheffield Crags Northern Peak Back cover flap cover Back Page 15 Page Outside back cover Outside back - Page 25 Page Page 23 Page Page 31 Page Page 17 Page - www.blackdiamondequipment.com 27 Designs - Page Beta Climbing betaclimbingdesigns.com cover - Inside front Mammut www.mammut.ch cover - Inside back Marmot www.marmot.com 19 - Page Entre-prise www.entre-prises.com Country - Wild www.wildcountry.com Multiple shops nationwide cotswoldoutdoor.com High Sports - Shrewsbury www.highsports.co.uk On - Rock Birmingham London, Guildford, www.rockonclimbing.co.uk Outside - Opposite www.outside.co.uk Guiding and Accommodation 29 - Page Outdoors Thornbridge www.thornbridgeoutdoors.co.uk Alpkit alpkit.com Outdoor - Cotswold Climbing Walls Walls Climbing 2 - Page Walls Awesome Liverpool, Stoke-on-Trent, Stockport, Dublin Sheffield, www.awesomewalls.co.uk - ClimbingCentres.co.uk Reading Harrogate, Manchester, climbingcentres.co.uk Shops Equipment ManufacturersEquipment Diamond Black We are grateful to the following advertisers for for advertisers following the to grateful are We their support guidebook. of this Acknowledgments and Advertiser and DirectoryAcknowledgments Peak Bouldering Peak

Alan James and Adrian Berry, March 2014 March Berry, Adrian and Alan James - I would like to thank Sam for accompanying accompanying for thank Sam to like Alan - I would to like also I would trip. a research me on many who mother Liz James my this book to dedicate in February 2014. passed away - I would particularly like to thank Audrey Audrey thank particularly - I would to like Adrian amongst numerous for, Veitch Seguy and Jamie with me Woolpacks the hiking up to other things, little to Thanks too would. when no other bugger of carrying the pleasure him all the way for Raphael and back. there Thanks to Sherri Davy for advertising, Stephen Stephen advertising, for Sherri Davy Thanks to Campbell and Duncan matters technical Horne for trips. research some fun crag for Thanks are also due to our proofreaders. In this our proofreaders. also due to Thanks are Jaimella case a very mention is needed for special skills at an her proofreading who offered Espley work to pleasure and has been a real stage early Chris has also been very diligent as Craggs with. Andy Ting, Rebecca to also grateful are We usual. their help. for Ripley Tom and Fullwood Jon Harris, The photographs in this book have come from a come from in this book have The photographs Hutton Long and Mike Adam of people. number their huge collections and to us access both gave of those brilliant used many images. have we Duncan Simon Rogers, Moss, Jamie Thanks also to Glasby, Tim Stuart McNeil, Christian Fox, Skelton, and Rushforth Bond, Daniel David Phillips, Paul their contributions. for Greenwood Rob We are extremely grateful to everyone who who everyone to grateful extremely are We of the documentation to has helped contribute the years. District over bouldering Peak in the whose original books Williams Allen Thanks to this one. for foundation an excellent provided us has been for information of A major source by which is maintained PeakBouldering.info Special mention Mueller. Robin and Cokell Gareth proofread who has diligently Robin is needed for the harder to corrections this book, making many particular. in problems As the biggest Rockfax ever, this book has taken has taken this book ever, biggest Rockfax As the have days Many assemble. to effort some quite the over rambling both authors spent by been document to rocks' of 'small green in search moors, many the to indebted are We and photograph. their bags and mats moved who cheerfully climbers and photos, uncluttered take us to for out of the way so (without their spotters) who pulled on others to the topos. inject a bit of action into could we 10 10 Northern Peak Sheffield Crags Stanage Area Burbage Valley Derwent Edges The Limestone Central Grit Staffordshire South Peak

Logistics 6A) - page 455 - Upper Peak Bouldering Peak

Tier Boulders at the Roaches. Photo: Alan James Tier Claire Carter on Joe's Arete (V3 12 Northern Peak Sheffield Crags Stanage Area Burbage Valley Derwent Edges The Limestone Central Grit Staffordshire South Peak 13

South Peak Staffordshire Central Grit The Limestone Derwent Edges Burbage Valley Stanage Area Sheffield Crags Northern Peak 1 6 5 Dec 3 8 8 Nov 6 7 12 Oct 8 7 15 Sep 6 11 19 Aug 6 11 20 Jul 9 5 17 Jun Tourist Information, When to Go to When Information, Tourist 6 6 14 May 3 6 10 Apr 9 3 8 Mar Mountain RescueMountain 6 1 10 Feb 6 1 9 Jan Bouldering Logistics Peak In the event of an accident requiring the assistance of Mountain Rescue: of Mountain the assistance requiring of an accident event In the Dial 112 and ask for ‘POLICE - MOUNTAIN RESCUE' - MOUNTAIN ‘POLICE ask for and Dial 112 Temperature ˚C Temperature

Average Min Temp (˚C) Temp Min Average Average Max Temp (˚C) Temp Max Average Average Rain Days/Month Rain Average Constabulary. If in any doubt request Derbyshire Police Operations Room. Operations Police Derbyshire doubt request If in any Constabulary. Derbyshire All mountain rescue incidents in the Peak District area fall under the responsibility of the responsibility under fall District area in the Peak incidents rescue All mountain The best website for finding bus information is www.traveline.info bus information finding for The best website District is reasonable. The best website for finding train information is www.thetrainline.com. information finding train for The best website District is reasonable. public transport, and train stations are marked on the maps. Bus coverage for the Peak the Peak for Bus coverage on the maps. marked transport, are public stations and train descriptions are written assuming you are using one. Certain crags are accessible using accessible Certain are crags using one. are assuming you written descriptions are Getting Around car and the approach in this book is by access most of the crags to The easiest way foliage can choke some of the grit areas but good conditions can also usually be found. good conditions can also usually but some of the grit areas can choke foliage where there may well be a cooling breeze, although midges can be a problem. In the autumn the a problem. although midges can be be a cooling breeze, well may there where shade can usually be found on certain crags, or a trip to the higher moorland boulders is in order is in order on certain the higher moorland or a trip boulders to be found crags, shade can usually perfect conditions when the crags and ground dry out and it isn't too hot. Once the summer arrives, the summer arrives, Once dry hot. and ground out and it isn't too conditions when the crags perfect More information and other travel tips are at www.visitpeakdistrict.com tips are and other travel information More Spring can offer and wet. green are and north-facing walls boggy underfoot is horribly the ground - 13 Market Place. Tel: 01335 343666 01335 Tel: Place. Market - 13 Ashbourne if bouldering awkward circuit leisurely more can make on gritstone, problems the harder ideal for - Rykneld Square. Tel: 01246 345777 01246 Tel: Square. - Rykneld Chesterfield while conditions, Crisp winter of the year. something on most days Bouldering can offer Peak - Market Place. Tel: 01538 483741 01538 Tel: Place. Leek - Market Go to When - Old Market Hall, Bridge Street. Tel: 01629 816558 01629 Tel: Hall, Bridge - Old Market Street. - Pavilion Gardens. Tel: 01298 25106 01298 Tel: Gardens. - Pavilion - Surrey Street. Tel: 0114 221 1900 0114 Tel: Street. - Surrey Sheffield - Victoria Street. Tel: 01457 855920 01457 Tel: Street. Victoria - to include in these pages. include in these pages. to look at the Tourist Information Offices. They contain much more information than it is possible it is possible than information more much contain They Offices. Information Tourist look at the all. In an emergency it could be a while before help arrives in these very remote locations. in these very remote help arrives could be a while before it emergency In an all. Offices Information Tourist a take or need some accommodation, short day do on a wet are about what to If you of ideas as the moors of Kinder and Derwent where coverage can be intermittent or not available at not available or can be intermittent coverage where of Kinder and Derwent as the moors coverage across the major networks. The exceptions are isolated and exposed places such exposed and isolated are The exceptions the major networks. across coverage Many of the crags described in this section of the book have reasonable mobile phone reasonable described of the crags have section of the book in this Many Mobile Phones 14 14 Northern Peak Sheffield Crags Stanage Area Burbage Valley Derwent Edges The Limestone Central Grit Staffordshire South Peak

Tel: 0115 9576890 0115 Tel: Tel: 01743 231649 01743 Tel: Tel: 01629 812231 01629 Tel: Tel: 01433 651936 01433 Tel: Tel: 0161 2364123 2364123 0161 Tel: - page 11 Outside - page www.outside.co.uk Shrewsbury, SY1 1XJ SY1 Shrewsbury, Bridge Street, Bakewell Bridge Street, High Sports 23 - page cotswoldoutdoor.com cotswoldoutdoor.com cotswoldoutdoor.com Main Road, Hathersage Main Road, www.highsports.co.uk Oxford Road, Manchester Road, Oxford Castle Buildings, Nottingham Buildings, Castle - page 15 - page Outdoor Cotswold - page 15 - page Outdoor Cotswold 15 - page Outdoor Cotswold Accommodation, Pubs and Shops and Pubs Accommodation, 45 Mowbray Street, Sheffield. Street, X - 45 Mowbray Crag Sheffield. - Hill Street, Go Outdoors Hathersage. - Main Road, Go Outdoors Hope - Mytham Bridge, Hike ’n’ Hitch Valley. Buxton. Place, - Market Royle Jo Lane, - Kinders Station The Crag Greenfield. More shops listed at - shops listed More www.ukclimbing.com/listings Climbing Shops Climbing There are numerous Youth Youth numerous are There Bouldering Logistics Peak 5b) - page 125 - on the Buckstone

www.yha.org.uk Hostels in the Peak District, check out out District, check in the Peak Hostels Roaches and the Newstones. Roaches - in near the The Rock Birchover. - directly below Rowtor Rocks in Rocks Rowtor below - directly The Druid approach to Raven Tor. Raven to approach The Angler’s The Angler’s - passed on the Rest Middleton. - on the main road in Stoney in Stoney The Moon - on the main road - parking area for Birchen. for Hood Inn - parking area Robin Froggatt. - above the parking area for for the parking area - above The Grouse The Fox House - near Burbage South. The Fox Greenfield. The in - on the main road William King of your day. A few are listed below. below. listed are A few day. of your where you can discuss the highs and lows lows can discuss the highs and you where make great locations for an après-climb pint an après-climb locations for great make blessed with many fine hostelries which which fine hostelries with many blessed experience for many. The Peak District is The Peak many. for experience Pubs are an integral part an integral of the climbing are Pubs www.ukclimbing.com/listings Pubs www.peakdistrictonline.co.uk - Hostels Youth accommodation are: accommodation Useful websites for different types of different for Useful websites to very plush - www.ukcampsite.co.uk to throughout the area, from small and basic small and basic from the area, throughout Accommodation scattered campsites many are There Samuel James-Louwerse climbing Buckstone Groove (V1 below Stanage. Photo: Alan James 16 16 Northern Peak Sheffield Crags Stanage Area Burbage Valley Derwent Edges The Limestone Central Grit Staffordshire South Peak

Cover flap Cover

- Major shop - Cafe - Lead routes - Bouldering › fi — ‡ fi›‡— fi›‡— fi‡— fi›— fi— fi›‡— fi— fi›— fi‡— Manchester. Tel: 0161 230 7006 0161 Tel: Manchester. Large dedicated climbing centre dedicated Large St Benedict’s Church, Bennett Street, Bennett Church, St Benedict’s www.manchesterclimbingcentre.com Climbing Walls Climbing Manchester Wall Wall Manchester Mason's Place Business Park, Chaddesden. Mason's Place Business Park, theclimbingunit.com The Climbing Works Sheffield. London Road, Little www.climbingworks.com The Depot Nottingham. Street, 4 King Edward theclimbingdepot.com Sheffield The Edge, Sheffield. Street, John www.sheffield-climbing.co.uk Sheffield The Foundry, Sheffield. Street, 45 Mowbray www.foundryclimbing.com Nottingham Climbing Centre Climbing Centre Nottingham Noel St, Nottingham. 212 www.nottingham-climbing.co.uk Climbing Over Rock Manchester. Street, 45 Julia rockoverclimbing.com Race Rope Mill, Upper Hibbert Marple.Goyt Lane, www.roperace.co.uk The Climbing Unit Page 2 Page Page 2 Page Page 2 Page fi— fi›— fi›— fi›‡— fi›— fi›‡— fi—

Tel: 01782 341919 01782 Tel: Tel: 0114 244 6622 0114 Tel: Tel: 0161 494 9949 0161 Tel: Bouldering Logistics Peak Garter Street, Sheffield. Garter Sheffield. Street, fi›— www.awesomewalls.co.uk Sefton Road, Stoke-on-Trent. Stoke-on-Trent. Road, Sefton The Engine House, Stockport. Stockport. The Engine House, Large dedicated climbing centre. dedicated Large Large dedicated climbing centre. dedicated Large with some leading lines. Bouldering wall Awesome Walls Walls Stoke Awesome

Awesome Walls Walls Sheffield Awesome

Awesome Walls Walls Stockport Awesome Kilnworx Climbing Centre Climbing Centre Kilnworx Burslem. Street, Wycliffe kilnworx.org High Street East, Glossop. High Street Centre Glossop Leisure Camp Street, Salford. Street, Camp broughtonpower.wetpaint.com Centre Recreation Broughton St. James Church, . Church, James St. www.alter-rock.co.uk Rock Alter Climbing Centre Audley Nantwich Stoke. Road, peakpursuits.co.uk www.ukclimbing.com/walls/ More information and more walls are on the UKClimbing website at on the UKClimbing website are walls and more information More in the winter months, the climbing walls above are well worth considering. worth well are considering. above the climbing walls months, in the winter If you are rained off in the Peak, or if you just want to top up your power power up your top to just want or if you in the Peak, off rained are If you 18 18 Northern Peak Sheffield Crags Stanage Area Burbage Valley Derwent Edges The Limestone Central Grit Staffordshire South Peak

20 Northern Peak Sheffield Crags Stanage Area Burbage Valley Derwent Edges The Limestone Central Grit Staffordshire South Peak Peak Bouldering Climbing Information Mike Hayes onSpiderCrack(V5 6C+) -page263 -atOwler Tor. Photo:Paul Phillips 21

South Peak Staffordshire Central Grit The Limestone Derwent Edges Burbage Valley Stanage Area Sheffield Crags Northern Peak

Somewhere over the rainbow is a crag that I climbed on. Photo: Adrian Berry www.thebmc.co.uk Access British Mountaineering Council, 177-179 177-179 Council, Mountaineering British M20 2BB. Manchester, Burton Road, 445 4500 0161 4878 Fax: 0870 010 Tel: Web: [email protected] Email: Parking described parking book have in this All the crags with GPS been indicated which have areas Please maps. and QR codes on the coordinates is one thing If there use these parking areas! it is landowners, that annoys all others above by someone’s blocked their drive/field having you In one or two involve parking cases may car. spending some money. British Mountaineering Council The popularity of bouldering in recent years has The popularity years of bouldering in recent especially erosion seriouscaused some ground use The increased problems. under popular this down of bouldering slow mats has helped the where still some areas are there but erosion ago a long time disappeared of grass last blade a dusty/muddy is pit. is left and all that brushing have of chalk and vigorous Overuse on grit especially the rock, also had an impact on layer or the surface is soft the rock where crags has been wornaway. this? can stop we ways any there Are to ways are there not but probably ultimately Well it so that the and minimise the erosion down slow areas. time and different over impact is spread - Use less chalk. problems. on low even - Use bouldering mats, with plastic brushes. brush the holds gently - Only the popular paths. from - Don't stray Erosion BMC RAD app Peak Bouldering Climbing Peak

If you do encounter problems then contact the then contact problems do encounter If you representative. and Conservation Access BMC problems discuss any to happy always are They stage at an early involvement the BMC’s and often a into it escalates can defuse a situation before serious access dispute. Access arrangements can change and we we can change and arrangements Access use the BMC you when unsure, that, recommend Access Regional Database the up-to-date what check to situation is. - RAD here can check You thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ app from the BMC RAD or install app store. Android iOS or your In general all that is required to maintain this this maintain to all that is required In general a leave to Try behaviour. access is reasonable only take it; found shape than you place in better and abide by footprints; only and leave pictures the Country Code. The majority of crags in this book have been been The majority have in this book of crags lucky to are and we years many on for climbed all of nearly to access almost unrestricted enjoy there cases a few In in the book. the problems of nesting because be temporary restrictions may These arrangements. approach or special birds, by or indicated in the text, covered are details the crags. to approach signs on the 22 22 Northern Peak Sheffield Crags Stanage Area Burbage Valley Derwent Edges The Limestone Central Grit Staffordshire South Peak

24 Peak Bouldering Climbing Safety

Northern PeakNorthern Part of the enjoyment of bouldering comes from experiencing the same pleasure of moving over rock as climbing longer routes, but without the encumbrance of gear and the dangers associated with roped climbing. That's not to say that there are no dangers. Indeed, it often seems that climbers are more likely to receive minor injuries Sheffield Crags from bouldering than any other branch of the sport. Knowing how to moderate these dangers by landing safely, using mats correctly, how to spot properly and knowing your limits are the keys to staying safe.

Stanage Area Landing Safely When landing it is all about correct use of your legs. A thick bouldering mat may give five centimetres of compression to reduce the impact of landing - your legs give you ten times that, but only if you bend them. Aim to land with your legs Burbage Valley slightly bent and squat down to absorb the force of the fall through your leg muscles. If the idea of jumping off onto mats from a couple of metres up makes you nervous then it is a good idea to practise this by jumping off from gradually greater heights when attempting a particular

Derwent EdgesDerwent problem. Being relaxed mentally will allow you to avoid tensing up physically and possibly injuring yourself when you fall.

Bouldering Mats Bouldering mats (or pads) have gone a long way

The Limestone towards making falling from boulder problems safer and dramatically increasing the popularity Mike Langley on Hourglass Left (V4 6B) - page 146 - at and difficulty levels achieved in the sport. They Stanage. Because the edge of the mat is directly under the soften the impact, can be used to level uneven climber, the upper mat probably creates more of a hazard than it landings and protect from awkward blocks and removes. Photo: Adrian Berry other obstacles. Bouldering mats are not a guarantee of safety - to Landing Zone

Central Grit An uneven or sloping landing zone can make start with you have to actually land on one. Even even the shortest of problems dangerous. the biggest of mats is unlikely to cover all the Creating a level base to place your pad will possible landing sites and, the higher you climb, significantly decrease the likelihood of injury. the wider the potential landing area becomes. This can be done by using other smaller mats, If you are using multiple mats it is usually wiser or rucksacks or nearby small blocks. A common to cover a wider area, paying attention to joining

Staffordshire awkward landing is where the edge slopes away up the edges - landing on the edge of a mat is a under the crag. In these cases there is little you recipe for an ankle injury. Try to keep the landing can do apart from engage good spotters. area flat and resist the temptation to put one Snowballing - One of the best ways to level out more mat in the middle which might present a a landing zone is to wait until there is a snow further edge. For highball problems, multiple pads drift under a buttress. In these conditions you ‘stacked’ on top of each other is commonplace but can carve out a level platform for your mats. This watch out again for edges and keep the landing South PeakSouth can be so effective that there are some problems area flat. Falling onto a stack of pads two to three that have only ever been 'snowballed' above a deep will reduce the impact, but is a smaller target drift and await an ascent in more conventional area with a dangerous big edge if you half land on conditions. your 'stack'.

26 Peak Bouldering Climbing Safety

Northern PeakNorthern Spotting Can you have too many spotters? Eve Lancashire There is an art to spotting well that is usually being well supported on Cleo's Edge (V2 5c) - only learned through experience. The objective page 212 - at Burbage North. Photo: Alan James of spotting is to reduce the risk of injury to the climber. However the first rule is to make sure you're not going to get hurt yourself. Sheffield Crags There is a point above which spotting is merely an act of encouragement, and that point is probably a lot lower than many people think. You might feel the emotional need for a spot on highball problems, but if you fall from a good

Stanage Area few metres up, your spotters won't be able to do anything (and will probably scatter - if they've got any sense). The point at which a spot is no longer effective depends on the relative size of the spotter and the climber. A general rule of thumb is that, if the climber is beyond reach,

Burbage Valley he/she is beyond spotting and it is more useful to adjust the positions of the mats than to try to spot. You may still be able to deflect them from blocks and obstacles.

In terms of technique, it is important to note Derwent EdgesDerwent that you're not trying to catch the climber. The aims are to keep them upright so they can land on their feet as much as possible, and to direct them towards a soft landing and away from hazards like rocks and tree stumps. To do this you need to be able to react rapidly to The Limestone the falling climber. Having your hands almost in contact with the climber is ideal - and if they need reassurance you can tap them with your fingers so they know you're there. Take care to keep your thumbs out of the way to avoid injuring them when fielding the climber. Central Grit Where you place your hands on their body depends on the steepness of the problem. The steeper the problem the higher up the back you need to spot and on a horizontal roof problem you will want your hands level with arms up. The instinct is to maintain balance

Staffordshire their shoulders. On vertical or slabby problems, and prepare for impact by lowering your arms there's not much point in trying to grab the and sticking our elbows out - elbowing your climber's sides - they will slide straight through. friend in the face is not a good way to replay This leaves only one place to grab - the bottom. them for caring for you.

It is a good idea to communicate whether you In situations where you want to prevent

South PeakSouth wish to be spotted before setting off rather than someone from running/rolling off down a hill, getting into a panic when high up and yelling consider using a spare bouldering mat as a for spotters. When you fall into the trusty arms sort of shield to stop them without causing you of your spotter, do them a favour and keep your injury.

28 Peak Bouldering Climbing Topos, Maps and Symbols

Northern PeakNorthern Topo Key Route Symbols

Descent A good problem which is well worth climbing. (where 1 required) 2 A very good problem, one of the best on the crag.

Sheffield Crags 3 A brilliant problem, one of the best in the Peak. Powerful climbing; roofs, steep rock, low lock-offs 3 p or long moves off small holds. Traverse Sustained climbing; either lots of hard moves s (including on slabs) or pumpy traverses. Fingery climbing with significant small holds on the

Stanage Area f hard sections. 4 A highball problem or one with a bad landing. 2 Actual h Route A long reach is helpful, or even essential, for one 5 (HVD) r or more of the moves. 6 Burbage Valley 7 o A dynamic move is required. Problem Sit-down start required at this grade. Approach featured more w prominently on Graunchy climbing. Wide cracks or thrutchy moves a different topo k (not specifically for hand and fist cracks). Technical climbing. Not used in this book since Derwent EdgesDerwent t most of the problems are technical. Map Key Rounded climbing. Not used in this book since Trees Scale g most gritstone problems have rounded moves. Crag Symbols A crag page Angle of the approach walk to the boulders with approximate time. The Limestone S GPS Coordinates of parking Approximate time that the boulder/face is in the B Roads E direct sun (when it is shining). Additional Town/village parking The boulder can offer an option when the weather QR code for * is bad. Shelter from wind or a sun-trap. smartphone navigation The boulder is exposed to bad weather and will Train map for scan Central Grit station $ catch the wind if it is blowing. Track @ The boulder suffers from seepage. A Roads Campsite ! The boulder may offer dry climbing in the rain.

Staffordshire The rock can be green and dirty after prolonged A boulder on another page Scale page & rain. Deserted - Currently under-used and usually quiet. Less good problems or a remote area. Quiet - Less popular sections on major areas, or A boulder Footpath good areas with awkward approaches. South PeakSouth page Busy - You will seldom be alone when conditions Minor unclimbed Wall are good. Good bouldering and easy access. boulders Crowded - The most popular sections of the crags Buildings which are always busy when in condition.

30 Peak Bouldering Climbing Bouldering Grades

Northern PeakNorthern There are three recognised grading systems Bouldering Grades for bouldering - the V Grade, starting at VB, V0-, V0, V0+, V1, V2, to V14; the Font 6A, 6A+, 6B, 6B+ 8C Font UK Grade, written , ... to V Grade Technical (with a capital letter to distinguish it from Grade the similar looking sport grade); and the UK Grade Sheffield Crags Technical Grade, written 4a, 4b, 4c, 5a, 5b, 5c. These three systems are an attempt to VB 3 4a measure the overall difficulty of a problem 4b and none of them takes into account the V0- 3+ danger level of a highball problem, or one 4c with a bad landing. This similarity means that V0 4 Stanage Area the grades can be easily converted from one 5a system to the other. V0+ 4+

The V Grade is popular in the USA and V1 5 5b at climbing walls in the UK and has been 5+ 5c

Burbage Valley used in a number of previous bouldering V2 guidebooks in the UK. The Font system was 6A established in the mecca for boulderers - V3 6A+ 6a Fontainbleau - and is popular amongst the 6B majority of keen boulderers but suffers from V4 6B+ inconsistencies in the lower grades. The UK 6C

Derwent EdgesDerwent 6b Technical Grade is familiar to those who go V5 6C+ traditional climbing but has also been used historically to grade boulder problems in the V6 7A Peak District, and in places like Southern Sandstone in the UK. V7 7A+

The Limestone 7B In this book we have taken a new approach V8 which aims to appeal to everyone by giving 7B+ 6c two grades for every problem. You can V9 7C choose which system you want to use and we have standardised the conversions, V10 7C+ although this has left some subdivisions

Central Grit in the Font grade (e.g. V4 can be 6B or 8A 6B+). For lower grade problems (below V3 V11 7a 6A) we have used the UK Technical Grade 8A+ instead of the inconsistent Font Grade since V12 most British climbers getting into the sport 8B understand and use UK Technical Grades as V13 Staffordshire part of their trad climbing. V14 8B+ Colour Codes The problems are all given a colour-coded V15 8C dot corresponding to a grade band. The colour represents a level that a climber and the climber doesn't need to worry about South PeakSouth should be happy at, hence boulder problems the protection, although obviously some tend to be technically harder than the highball problems can be extremely serious. equivalent coloured trad routes because the See page 32 for information on the Circuit length of the climbing tends to be shorter Colour-codes.

32 Peak Bouldering Climbing Circuits

Northern PeakNorthern Bouldering circuits have long been popular amongst people wanting to get a lot of climbing done across an area. They are used as training, or just familiar routine circuits practised by frequent visitors. They can also be a great way to sample an area the first time you visit, and this is where the pre-defined circuits in this book come in.

We have included 60 circuits mainly in the easier grade range. These have been Sheffield Crags sub-divided into Green (up to V0+ 5a), Orange (up to V2 5c) and Red (up to V5 6C+). There is some variation in difficulty level between individual circuits, particularly the Red zone where, for example, the two Red Circuits at the Roaches are significantly easier than the those at Froggatt or in the Churnet. Each circuit has a tick box for when you manage to complete it.

The circuits are indicated using the a 'C' 8 Wall Past Slot. . . . #¢1Ω V0+ 5a Stanage Area symbol by the route name (see right) and are The far left-hand side of the slab. designed to be easily followed in numerical order. They vary in length and problems can appear on two circuits (as above) since there is some overlap, especially the Orange problems.

Burbage Valley The colour of a circuit indicates its level of difficulty, rather than reflecting the colour of problems included. All the Red Circuits contain some easier Orange problems, and all the Green Circuits contain a few Orange V0+ 5a problems. Orange Circuits can include problems of all three colours.

No Black Circuits have been included mainly because there are very few climbers that Derwent EdgesDerwent operate at a high enough level to actually complete a Black Circuit. Of course the circuits in this book are only guidelines and you can make up your own, or combine and extend the included circuits.

Circuit Problems VB 4a V0- 4b V0 4c V0+ 5a V1 5b V2 5c V3 6A V3 6A+ V4 6B V4 6B+ V5 6C V5 6C+ Page The Limestone 25 Wimberry Green Wimberry 23 Wimberry Orange 40 25 Wimberry Red 15 Woolpacks Green Woolpacks 70 24 Woolpacks Orange Central Grit 22 Stanage End and High Neb Red 116 Stanage High Neb 13 Buckstone Causeway Green 125 13 Buckstone Causeway Orange 26 Plantation Green Stanage Staffordshire 39 Plantation Orange 132 Plantation 30 Plantation Red Stanage Popular 20 Stanage Popular Red 162 20 Stanage Far Right Green 165 Stanage Far Right 24 Stanage Far Right Orange

South PeakSouth 22 Stanage Far Right Red 167 20 Higgar Tor Green Higgar Tor 20 Higgar Tor Orange 183 17 Higgar Tor Red Gardom's North Roaches Lower Roaches Upper Burbage South Burbage North Millstone Area Burbage West Robin Hood's Curbar Edge Curbar Field Harborough The Skyline Newstones/ Baldstones Ramshaw Cratcliffe Froggatt Circuit Churnet Birchen Baslow Stride Valley Problems 24 31 29 29 20 25 24 30 30 25 20 20 26 20 25 25 20 22 20 30 30 29 35 32 19 15 13 19 15 18 19 15 16 17 16 16 12 13 17 17 18 11 Burbage South Valley Green VB 4a Birchen Three ShipsGreen Roaches Lower Green Roaches UpperGreen Burbage North GreenBurbage North Harborough Green The SkylineGreen Newstones Green The Stride Green Cratcliffe Green V0- 4b Mother Owler Area Orange Curbar Edge OrangeCurbar Edge The SkylineOrange Curbar Field Green Pinnacle Orange Gardom's Orange North Burbage South Valley Orange V0 4c Newstones/Baldstones Orange The Stride Orange Ramshaw Orange Roaches Lower Orange Roaches UpperOrange Burbage North Orange Burbage North Burbage West Orange Burbage West Curbar Field Orange Curbar Field Cratcliffe Orange V0+ 5a V1 5b Newstones/Baldstones Red Burbage North RedBurbage North Roaches Lower Red V2 5c Roaches UpperRed Baslow Red Edge The SkylineRed Gardom's Red North V3 Millstone Area RedMillstone Area Burbage South Valley Red Curbar Edge RedCurbar Edge 6A Froggatt Red The Stride Red Ramshaw Red Cratcliffe Red V3 Churnet Red Birchen Red 6A+ V4 6B V4 6B+ V5 6C V5 6C+ Page 492 485 521 513 468 455 380 441 392 390 342 341 326 324 313 309 303 284 276 258 236 202 198

South Peak Staffordshire Central Grit The Limestone Derwent Edges Burbage Valley Stanage Area Sheffield Crags Northern Peak 40 51 56 62 65 68 80 90 96 126 160 164 102 110 114 180 192 200 218 234 252 268 274 291 310 322 338 Page Summary An extensive boulderfield spread across a steep hillside. Excellent Excellent hillside. a steep across spread boulderfield An extensive and cold. can be exposed but circuits, for A complex jumble of boulders with some interesting problems. Out Out problems. interesting with some boulders of jumble A complex be busy. to and unlikely of the way An exposed hillside with some fine isolated boulders. Quite remote remote Quite boulders. fine isolated hillside with some An exposed be busy. to and unlikely vertical and some good traverse quarryA roadside with a famous problems. urban in a very sheltered and traverses problems Some hard wall. one ever-dry with setting set of beautiful moorland boulders and exposed A very remote rock. soft in and some A long walk formations. and rock A long on the beautiful moors. formations wild rock and Remote good when in condition. in, but walk A few small areas spread along the edge in a wooded setting. setting. the edge in a wooded along spread small areas A few grades. in the higher Mostly in Mostly along the main edge. dotted problems Some quality hard dry days. and good for winter setting a wooded One of the most extensive areas in the book with many brilliant in the book with many areas One of the most extensive busy. Usually long circuits. and some great problems starts on the and boulder problem A combination of short routes Edge. section of Stanage busiest of the main along the continuation dotted small areas Lots of great circuits. Some excellent edge. A north-facing edge on the outskirts of Sheffield. Nothing of any of any Nothing A north-facing edge on the outskirts of Sheffield. access. and easy quick but quality, great worthwhile a few but bouldering, A beautiful edge with limited problems. harder of areas with a number section of Stanage The most remote good circuits. A few out. spread well which are Some great bouldering spread around the small edge of the tor. the small edge of the tor. around bouldering spread Some great bad.. Some of the landings are circuits. Good for East facing, class problems. top bouldering and a few Good hard in the warmer months. in the afternoon shade so it offers plenty edge with bouldering of on the edge itself and An excellent Good circuits. below. on the blocks Not problems. with some qualityShady northwest-facing crag hard and some very bad landings. circuits good for with some brilliant boulders around One of the best boulderfields good. when conditions are busy Always circuits. and great on problems and hard Millstone, above blocks Some good natural the quarried edge itself. north-facing a short, shady, minor locations - one offering Two middle of the moor. in the edge and the other a lone block and main crag area the wooded on problems Some good hard above. on the boulders and easier offerings along the edge and some brilliant and locations spread Several below. in the field popular boulders grade a bit of lower Quite block. A small edge and isolated highball/soloing. it is mostly but bouldering on offer harder with some isolated areas good concentrated Three in between. problems Hard bouldering on the edge and an easy circuit on the blocks on the blocks circuit bouldering on the edge and an easy Hard above. Rain Dry in ! ! ! ! ! Seepage Wind $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ * * * * * Sun U U U U U R U U Y } R } } U U R R R U } } T E E E W W Faded symbol means that only some of the bouldering is sheltered / suffers from seepage / is dry from in the rain / suffers bouldering some of the is sheltered means that only symbol Faded 1 min 20 - 40 min 2 - 23 min 10 - 25 min 10 - 25 30 min 15 - 19 min 90 min 15 - 30 min 10 - 16 min 10 - 11 min 5 - 25 min 10 - 20 min 8 - 18 min 6 - 15 min 8 - 15 min 1 - 20 min 3 - 30 min 5 - 22 min 5 - 25 min 15 - 20 min 5 min 3 - 5 min 12 - 20 min 10 - 20 min 5 - 15 min 12 - 15 min 5 min Approach S F S G S S A A F F S S S S F F F F F F S F A F F F S - 3 2 6 1 2 2 2 11 11 14 13 14 76 14 12 17 17 13 25 36 36 44 25 31 40 39 7A to 8B+ 7A to V6 V13 to 7 5 11 10 10 15 15 12 15 12 13 19 15 18 23 24 28 61 37 36 25 45 26 35 36 35 20 6A to 6C+ 6A to V3 V5 to 7 9 7 4 9 2 3 16 17 16 28 27 33 34 60 23 44 31 29 23 53 26 20 28 50 29 66 V0+ V0+ V2 to 5a to 5c/6a 5a - - 1 5 6 1 5 8 3 9 6 7 2 5 9 9 1 10 12 16 27 28 23 21 28 33 23 up V0 to Easy to 4c Easy

Circuits 36 37 92 24 22 54 68 30 28 35 21 96 36 78 84 88 80 54 29 94 118 112 110 154 136 165 225 Problems Rivelin Curbar Baslow Birchen Derwent Froggatt Bamford Black Tor Black Wimberry Gardom's Bell Hagg Higgar Tor Higgar Wharncliffe New Tor Burbage West Burbage Millstone Area Millstone Burbage NorthBurbage The Woolpacks

Tintwistle Knarr Tintwistle Houndkirk Moor Houndkirk Stanage Far Right Stanage Far Stanage High Neb Stanage Plantation

Burbage South EdgeBurbage Hobson Moor Quarry Hobson Moor Stanage Popular End Stanage Popular Burbage Burbage South Valley

Northern Peak Northern Sheffield Crags Sheffield Burbage Valley Burbage Stanage Area Stanage Derwent Edges Derwent Destination Planner Destination 34 34 Northern Peak Sheffield Crags Stanage Area Burbage Valley Derwent Edges The Limestone Central Grit Staffordshire South Peak Derwent Edges Burbage Valley Stanage Area Sheffield Crags Northern Peak Burbage South Valley Burbage Stanage Popular End Hobson MoorQuarry Burbage SouthEdge Stanage Plantation Stanage HighNeb Stanage Far Right Houndkirk Moor Tintwistle Knarr The Woolpacks Burbage North Millstone Area Burbage West New Mills Tor New Wharncliffe Higgar Tor Bell Hagg Gardom's Wimberry Black Tor Bamford Froggatt Derwent Birchen Baslow Curbar Rivelin Problems 225 165 136 154 110 112 118 24 37 36 92 80 88 84 94 29 54 78 36 96 21 35 28 30 68 54 22 Circuits

Easy to4c up to V0 up 23 28 27 21 23 33 28 16 12 10 2 7 1 9 9 5 6 9 3 8 5 1 6 5 1 - - 5a to5c/6a V0+ to V2 V0+ 28 20 26 53 23 29 66 29 50 31 23 60 34 33 27 28 44 16 17 16 3 2 7 9 9 7 4 V3 to V5 V3 6A to6C+ 35 26 45 25 36 20 35 36 37 61 28 24 23 18 15 19 13 12 15 15 12 15 10 10 11 5 7 V6 to V13 V6 7A to8B+ 31 25 36 36 39 40 25 44 13 17 17 12 14 76 14 13 14 11 11 2 2 2 1 6 3 2 - F F F F F F F F A F S F S S S S F F A S S G A S F S S Approach 5min 12-15min 5-25min 5-22min 3-30min 1-20min 5-15min 8-15min 10-20min 12-20min 3-5min 5min 6-15min 8-18min 10-20min 5-25min 15-20min 10-11min 10-16min 15-30min 90min 15-19min 30min 10-25min 2-23min 20-40min 1min Faded symbol means that only issheltered some ofthe bouldering /suffers in therain from seepage /is dry W W E E E Y U U R U U U U U } U R R R U T } U } } R } Sun * * * * * $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ Wind Seepage ! ! ! ! ! Dry in Dry Rain Good for circuits. Someofthelandingsare bad.. Some great spread bouldering around thesmalledgeoftor. edge. Someexcellent circuits. Lots ofgreat smallareas dotted alongthecontinuation ofthemain busiest sectionofStanage Edge. routesA combinationofshort andboulderproblem onthe starts problems andsomegreat longcircuits. Usually busy. One ofthemostextensive areas inthebookwithmany brilliant which are well spread out. A few goodcircuits. The mostremote sectionofStanage withanumber ofareas harder problems. A beautifuledgewithlimited bouldering, but afew worthwhile great quality, but quick andeasy access. ofSheffield. edgeontheoutskirts A north-facing Nothingofany a wooded setting andgoodforwinter days. dry hardSome quality problems dotted alongthemainedge. Mostly in Mostly inthehighergrades. A few smallareas spread alongtheedgeinawooded setting. walk in,but goodwhenincondition. Remote andwildrock formations onthebeautifulmoors. A long and rock formations. A long walk inandsomesoft rock. remoteA very andexposed boulders setofbeautifulmoorland setting withoneever-dry wall. Some hard problems andtraverses sheltered inavery urban problems. withafamousA roadside quarry traverse andsomegoodvertical and unlikely to bebusy. An exposed hillsidewithsomefineisolated boulders. Quite remote of theway andunlikely to bebusy. A complex jumble ofboulders withsomeinteresting problems. Out for circuits, but canbeexposed andcold. An extensive boulderfield spread across asteep hillside. Excellent above. Hard onthe edge andaneasy bouldering circuit onthe blocks problems inbetween. Three goodconcentrated areas withsomeisolated harder onofferbouldering but itismostly highball/soloing. A smalledgeandisolated block. Quite abitoflower grade popular boulders inthefield below. Several locationsspread and alongtheedgeandsomebrilliant and easierofferings ontheboulders above. Some goodhard problems onthewooded area andmaincrag edge andtheotheraloneblock inthemiddleofmoor. Two minorlocations-oneoffering shady, ashort, north-facing edgeitself.the quarried Some goodnatural blocks above Millstone, andhard problems on and great circuits. Always busy whenconditionsare good. One ofthebestboulderfields around boulders withsomebrilliant good for circuits badlandings. andsomevery hardShady northwest-facingcrag withsomequality problems. Not on theblocks below. Goodcircuits. An excellent ontheedgeitselfand ofbouldering edgewithplenty so itoffers shadeintheafternoon months. inthewarmer Good hard andafew bouldering top classproblems. Eastfacing, Summary Page 338 322 310 291 274 268 252 234 218 200 192 180 164 160 126 114 110 102 62 56 51 40 96 90 80 68 65 35

South Peak Staffordshire Central Grit The Limestone Derwent Edges Burbage Valley Stanage Area Sheffield Crags Northern Peak 350 356 360 365 368 416 424 426 438 466 474 374 376 378 388 402 406 482 490 500 502 508 512 516 518 Page Summary Technical eliminates on polished limestone in a handful of in limestone on polished eliminates Technical taste. everyone's too Not crag. on this historic locations Often in a sun-trap. traverses and some difficult problems Hard when flooded. in the winter inaccessible The rock in the Peak. and traverses problems Some of the hardest times. at other A sun-trap in winter. wet often is polished and generally They problems. hard with a few walls roadside Three dries although one section quickly. some seepage, from suffer of highballs in a lovely - one vertical wall venues contrasting Two problems. powerful with some cave location, another steep Two small crags on the northern edge of the town of Matlock. on the northern small crags of Matlock. edge of the town Two only. good highball problems A few in problems hard Mostly valley. small edges in a picturesque Three amongst some dense vegetation. Six and the edge. bouldering on boulders Superb and extensive the grades. and quality across circuits excellent with Roaches the locations above beautiful and exposed Several circuits. and problems some good hard be Can including one brilliant locations boulder. isolated A few with the Roaches. combined easily An isolated edge with a small set of mid-grade problems. Never Never problems. a small set of mid-grade edge with An isolated be combined with Harland Edge. Can a beautiful setting. and busy Never problems. a small set of mid-grade edge with An isolated Warren. be combined with Rabbit Can a beautiful setting. and busy this small around scattered boulders of varied A beautiful cluster a long day. Plenty for edge with some good circuits. some quality and problems with lower-grade A superb boulderfield of the main crag. bouldering area and wooded on the edge hard A either side. walls and prow with a good steep A small crag some of high quality. but set of problems, limited A few the moor. and edges around of blocks small clusters Several high-quality problems. rock some fascinating with location on a small tor A great bouldering. hard Excellent and carvings. formations An east-facing edge with a few good areas in the mid and high good areas edge with a few An east-facing grades. bouldering spot with good on the two edges and An excellent east-facing. Mostly range. the grade across quality problems crag. east-facing on a small, high-quality problems A few Isolated bouldering on a short edge in four separate sections. sections. bouldering on a shortIsolated separate edge in four One has some lower-grade crag. near the areas contrasting Three highball slabs and walls. very hard offer slabs and the others in Mostly edge with short and problems. A nice limestone routes grades. the lower set of decent problems. with a limited area A small sheltered bouldering hard offering crags set of small sandstone A wooded and traverses. Rain Dry in ! ! ! ! ! ! Seepage @ @ @ @ @ @ Wind $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ * * * * * * * * * * * * * Sun U U U U U U U Y } } } U U E E E E E E E W W W W W Faded symbol means that only some of the bouldering is sheltered / suffers from seepage / is dry from in the rain / suffers bouldering some of the is sheltered means that only symbol Faded 2 min 3 min 25 min 20 - 24 min 10 min 1 min 10 - 15 min 10 - 15 min 10 - 20 min 2 - 20 min 10 min 1 min 2 - 12 min 2 - 4 min 3 - 30 min 25 - 40 min 10 - 15 min 2 - 10 min 10 min 1 - 5 min 5 min 8 - 18 min 2 - 4 min 4 - 10 min Roadside Approach A A A A S F A F G G S F F S H F F A F S S S S A F - - 6 1 6 5 1 9 4 3 11 11 11 17 13 14 39 24 25 23 26 29 37 24 44 7A to 8B+ 7A to V6 V13 to - 8 2 5 8 7 6 6 7 9 9 9 2 10 18 17 19 20 22 28 27 24 70 23 51 6A to 6C+ 6A to V3 V5 to - - 5 8 6 9 4 6 5 6 5 5 4 10 12 15 18 16 14 18 24 28 93 20 27 V0+ V0+ V2 to 5a to 5c/6a 5a ------4 1 1 4 3 1 1 3 11 11 16 17 15 52 up V0 to Easy to 4c Easy

Circuits 18 18 15 15 10 16 76 27 31 31 24 66 92 72 78 66 28 55 27 47 52 32 26 114 252 Problems Stoney Matlock Gib Torr Rubicon Cratcliffe Ramshaw Raven Tor Raven Wolf Edge Wolf Alport Area The Skyline Shining Cliff Black Rocks Black Amber Valley The Roaches Stanton Moor Stanton Harland Edge Harland Rowtor Rocks Rowtor Rabbit Warren Churnet Valley Churnet Blackwell Dale Blackwell Clifftop Boulder Clifftop

The Five Clouds The Five Harborough Rocks Harborough

Robin Hood's Stride Robin

Newstones Baldstones Newstones

Central Grit Central The Limestone The Staffordshire Southern Crags Southern Destination Planner Destination 36 36 Northern Peak Sheffield Crags Stanage Area Burbage Valley Derwent Edges The Limestone Central Grit Staffordshire South Peak Southern Crags Staffordshire Central Grit The Limestone Newstones Baldstones Robin Hood'sStride Harborough Rocks The Five Clouds Clifftop Boulder Blackwell Dale Churnet Valley Rabbit Warren Rowtor Rocks Harland Edge Stanton Moor The Roaches Amber Valley Black Rocks Shining Cliff The Skyline Alport AreaAlport Wolf Edge Raven Tor Ramshaw Cratcliffe Rubicon Gib Torr Matlock Stoney Problems 252 114 32 26 27 55 28 66 52 47 72 92 78 24 31 31 27 66 76 10 16 15 18 15 18 Circuits

Easy to4c up to V0 up 52 15 17 16 11 11 1 3 3 4 1 1 1 4 ------5a to5c/6a V0+ to V2 V0+ 27 20 93 28 24 18 14 16 18 15 12 10 4 4 5 5 6 5 6 9 5 6 8 - - V3 to V5 V3 6A to6C+ 51 27 23 70 24 28 22 20 19 17 18 10 5 2 8 6 7 2 9 7 6 9 9 8 - V6 to V13 V6 7A to8B+ 37 24 29 26 23 25 24 39 44 14 13 17 11 11 11 6 1 6 3 9 1 5 4 - - F A S S F A F S F F S G G S F A F S A A A F H A S Approach Roadside 4-10min 2-4min 8-18min 5min 1-5min 10min 2-12min 2-10min 10-15min 25-40min 3-30min 2-4min 2-20min 10-20min 10-15min 1min 10min 1min 10min 20-24min 25min 2min 3min 10-15min Faded symbol means that only issheltered some ofthe bouldering /suffers intherain from seepage /isdry W W W W W E E E E E E E U U } } } Y U U U U U U U Sun * * * * * * * * * * * * * $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ Wind @ @ @ @ @ @ Seepage ! ! ! ! ! ! Dry in Dry Rain excellent circuitsacross andquality thegrades. Superb andextensive onboulders bouldering andtheedge. Six amongst somedensevegetation. Three smalledgesinapicturesque valley. Mostly hard problems in A few goodhighballproblems only. Two edgeofthetown ofMatlock. smallcrags onthenorthern formations andcarvings. Excellent hard bouldering. A great locationonasmalltor withsomefascinating rock problems.high-quality Several smallclusters ofblocks andedgesaround themoor. A few limited setofproblems, but someofhighquality. A smallcrag withagoodsteep prow andwalls eitherside. A hard ontheedgeandwooded area bouldering ofthemaincrag. A superbboulderfield withlower-grade problems andsomequality edge withsomegoodcircuits. for Plenty alongday. A beautifulcluster ofvaried boulders scattered around thissmall busy andabeautifulsetting. Can becombinedwithRabbit Warren. An isolated edgewithasmallsetofmid-grade problems. Never busy andabeautifulsetting. Can Edge. becombinedwithHarland An isolated edgewithasmallsetofmid-grade problems. Never location, anothersteep cave withsomepowerful problems. Two contrasting venues wall -onevertical ofhighballsinalovely suffer from someseepage, quickly. althoughonesectiondries Three roadside walls withafew hard problems. They generally is polishedandoften wet inwinter. A sun-trap atothertimes. Some ofthehardest problems andtraverses inthePeak. The rock inaccessible inthewinter whenflooded. Hard problems andsomedifficult traverses inasun-trap. Often locations onthishistoric crag. Nottoo everyone's taste. Technical eliminates onpolishedlimestone inahandfulof and traverses. A wooded setofsmall sandstone crags offering hard bouldering A smallsheltered area with alimited set ofdecentproblems. the lower grades. routesA nicelimestone edgewithshort andproblems. Mostly in slabs andtheothers offer hard very highballslabsandwalls. Three contrasting areas nearthecrag. Onehassomelower-grade edgeinfour separateIsolated onashort bouldering sections. A few problems high-quality ona small,east-facing crag. problemsquality across thegrade range. Mostly east-facing. An excellent edgesand onthetwo spotwithgoodbouldering grades. An east-facing edgewithafew goodareas inthemidandhigh combined easily withtheRoaches. A few isolated boulder. locationsincludingonebrilliant Can be some goodhard problems andcircuits. Several beautifulandexposed locationsabove theRoaches with Summary Page 365 360 356 350 518 516 512 508 502 500 490 482 474 466 438 426 424 416 406 402 388 378 376 374 368 37

South Peak Staffordshire Central Grit The Limestone Derwent Edges Burbage Valley Stanage Area Sheffield Crags Northern Peak