Conservation Landscaping for Healthy Streams Navigating the Water Audit Project Approval & Rebate Process

Contents Purpose of this Guide ...... 1 Assessing the Property ...... 2 Locating, Sizing & Shaping Your Landscape ...... 5 Understanding & Amending Soils ...... 8 Native Plants ...... 10 Create a Planting Plan ...... 12 Installing Your Project ...... 12 Establishing & Maintaining Your Landscape ...... 14 Glossary...... 16 Resources ...... 17

2013 Conservation Landscaping For Healthy Streams

Purpose of this Guide

Conservation Landscaping for Healthy Streams is intended to assist participants of Blue Water Baltimore’s Water Audit Program in completing the Conservation Landscaping Project Approval Form and qualifying their project for the conservation landscaping rebate. The rebate is available for both residential and nonresidential properties within the four watersheds located in and around Baltimore City: Gwynns Falls, Jones Falls, Herring Run, and Direct Harbor. The Water Audit Program will provide a rebate for qualified projects based on the square footage of the new landscape. No rebate will exceed half the cost of a project. In order to receive a rebate, residents must register for the program and have their property assessed by Blue Water Baltimore before the project is installed. A Project Approval From must be submitted 2 weeks prior to starting your project. Upon project approval, there may be changes required to ensure that the project meets the program standards. These changes must be incorporated in order to qualify the project for a rebate. For up-to-date incentives, to register for the Water Audit Program, or to complete forms, visit www.bluewaterbaltimore.org.

Blue Water Baltimore created the Water Audit Program to assist residents in reducing the negative impact their properties have on the natural environment. Of particular concern in the Baltimore area is the water that runs off of hard (impervious) surfaces such as roofs and roadways. In urban settings, even “green” spaces such as yards and parks can generate this runoff because of soil compaction. This runoff, or stormwater, carries trash, chemicals, sediment, and heat into our streams. Stormwater is conveyed directly to local streams and the Chesapeake Bay without being treated. By converting some (or all) of your yard to conservation landscaping you Digging Deeper will protect the health of your local streams, the Baltimore Harbor, and the Chesapeake Bay. This guide covers the basic information and steps you will Because the primary goal of the Water Audit Program is to reduce the amount of pollution in our urban streams and the need to complete the Water Audit Chesapeake Bay, the rebate standards place a particular Project Forms. See the References emphasis on reducing runoff. In other contexts, an emphasis section at the end of this on different conservation landscaping practices may be document for additional guides warranted. This guide is not intended to be an exhaustive guide to conservation landscaping practices. and more in depth texts.

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Assessing the Property

Before you begin choosing plants, you must first evaluate your property and choose a location for your conservation landscape. To ensure that your project qualifies for a rebate, the location must measurably reduce runoff from your property. Typically, a landscape that reduces runoff is located downhill from impervious surfaces such as rooftops or patios so that it intercepts and absorbs runoff. You will need to consider your use of the space, existing landscaping, and other site conditions during the planning process. Evaluating your site conditions will help you to select the best spot for your landscape as well as select the right plants.

Throughout the course of planning your project, you’ll want sketch your site. Begin with the property line and building footprints. You can draw by hand (it doesn’t have to be museum worthy) or begin with an image generated by a mapping service of your choosing. Both Baltimore County and the City of Baltimore have mapping websites (see Resources for web links). You may also choose to download a base image using other mapping tools such as Yahoo or Google Maps. A site sketch is required when you complete your Project Approval From.

Property line and building footprint of a single Aerial image of the same single family family home. Image taken from Baltimore home in Baltimore County taken from County’s ‘My Neighborhood’ mapping website. Google Maps.

Now that you have basic information about your site, you’ll begin taking an inventory of other property characteristics that will impact your conservation landscape.

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Are There any Trees on Your Property? It can be challenging to perform landscaping work under trees without damaging them. Roots from most tree species extend beyond the canopy edge. At a minimum, your landscape should therefore be located outside of the tree’s dripline (see image at right). On your site sketch, mark the trees to show the edge of the canopy. An aerial image such as the Google Maps image on the previous page will include your trees (if it is a recent image and no trees have been planted or removed since the image was taken).

The limbs and roots of nearby trees may influence your conservation landscaping plan. Keep in mind that this influence may vary by tree species. For example, maple and birch trees tend to have extensive and shallow root Root zone and dripline of a typical systems which will be damaged if you till the soil and because they are water tree. Source: Connecticut loving, will soak up the water that your landscape plants may depend on. Agricultural Experiment Station; Trees also cast a shadow, influencing light conditions. http://www.ct.gov/ Conservation landscapes below tree canopies will not qualifty for a financial incentive if there is a more appropriate location on the property for a project. If you must place your landscaping under or near an existing tree, minimize damage to the existing root structure by avoiding the use of heavy machinery and by not tilling over or cutting roots. It is also important not to bury existing roots beneath thick layers of soil or mulch since tree roots depend on air to survive. When working close to existing trees, Blue Water Baltimore recommends that you consult a certified arborist before beginning work to ensure that healthy trees remain healthy.

Do You Have any Existing Landscaping? Take an inventory of the existing plants in your yard so that your conservation landscape can complement your existing landscape. Consider how tall they grow, when they bloom, how much water and sunlight they need, and the soil conditions they prefer. If those established plants are thriving, select new plant species with similar characteristics such as soil pH requirements. For example, if you have a bed with acid-loving plants like azaleas or roses that is doing well, you may consider native blueberries or winterberry hollies for your conservation landscape rather than trying to plant a species that prefers neutral soil. On your site sketch, mark the location of existing landscaping. You do not need to identify each species.

If the area you have identified for your conservation landscape includes an invasive species, you may need to take drastic action to eliminate the existing vegetation before you plant your project. Invasive species that are particularly difficult to eliminate are running bamboo and English ivy. For tips on how to identify and best eradicate invasive species, see the Resources section.

Other Site Conditions You will need to gather other information such as sun exposure, utilities, slope, and impervious surfaces such as sidewalks and driveways.

Your site will fall into one of the broad categories: full sun, partial sun/partial shade, or full shade. These categories are determined by the number of hours of daylight in your selected location. Note the time that sunlight first hits the location and then when the area returns to shade. The total time in sun may be

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interrupted due to a tree that only casts a shadow during certain parts of the day. Keep in mind that sun exposure varies throughout the year due to the tilt of the earth and dropping of deciduous tree leaves. The best time to measure sun exposure is on a sunny day between the beginning of May and the end of July.

 Full sun: at least six hours of direct sunlight per day  Partial Sun or Partial Shade: between three and six hours of direct sunlight per day  Full Shade: less than three hours of direct sunlight per day

Always call MISS Utility to have utilities marked before you plan the landscape to be sure that you do not plant trees directly over utility lines. Call MISS Utility at 811 or visit www.missutility.net. This is a free service for residents. Utility conflicts are primarily a concern for trees and digging. When digging, be sure to avoid any buried wires and refrain from digging deep with heavy equipment around buried pipes.

The direction and how steeply your yard slopes, are important pieces of information. Slopes greater than 12% will not qualify for a rebate unless they are terraced and there is not a more appropriate location on the property.

Measure your slope: Measuring slope. Source: University of Wisconsin-Extension 1. Pound stakes into the ground on the uphill and sides of the area where you are considering installing your rain garden. The stakes should be about 10-15’ apart. 2. Tie a string to the uphill stake where it meets the ground, then to the downhill stake. Make the string taught, but not tied so tight that you won’t be able to adjust it. 3. Using a string (line) level adjust the string on the downhill stake until the string is level. 4. Measure the width (distance from the uphill to downhill stake along the string). 5. Measure the height from the ground to where the string is attached to the downhill stake along the stake. 6. Divide the height by the width than multiply by 100 to calculate the slope.

On your site sketch, mark the following:

 North, using a north arrow  Sun exposure  Utilities, both above and below ground  Slope

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Locating, Sizing & Shaping Your Landscape for Maximum Stormwater Reduction

Proving Stormwater Reduction Well-placed conservation landscaping will improve the health of your watershed by absorbing runoff from a surface such as a lawn, roof, patio, or driveway. In order to receive a rebate through Blue Water Baltimore’s Water Audit Program your project must measurably reduce stormwater. The burden of proof that the landscape will reduce the runoff created by the landscaped area itself and by other portions of the property will be on you or your landscaper. It is important to understand what areas are draining to your new landscape so that you can make sure your landscape is sized and shaped in a way that will intercept this runoff. Each site is unique and will need to be evaluated individually.

Placement Select a site that is downhill from lawns, patios and rooftops. In urban environments, where properties tend to be smaller, finding an appropriate site may be a relatively easy process. Larger properties, however, may have multiple ideal locations. No matter the size of the property, try to select a location with the greatest water interception and infiltration opportunity. Your site sketch will help you to select the ideal location for your conservation landscape.

Shape of Your Landscape Depending on the existing slope where the landscape will be installed, you will want to either mound or recess your new landscape. You will need to be able to describe how your landscape reduces stormwater when you complete your Project Approval Form.

You will want to mound your landscape when the location of the new landscape has a slope of 5-12%. The raised landscape will intercept runoff and increase water infiltration into the ground. The uphill edge of the landscape should have a 3:1 slope, meaning that for every 1” high the top of the landscape is from the original height of the ground, the edge of the slope should be 3” wide. The top of the landscape should be at least 2’ wide and flat. The downhill slope should be 3:1 also, but may be 2:1 depending on space available.

You will want to recess your landscape when the location of the new landscape has a slope of less than 5%. Recessing your landscape not only reduces runoff but reduces irrigation needs, thereby conserving potable water resources, as well as saving you time and money.

Regardless of slope, you’ll want your landscape to follow the contour of the land. This means that it will run along the same horizontal plain or across a hillside.

If you are planning a conservation landscape for a steep slope, consider terracing. Terrace steps should be no more than 30 inches in height unless a retaining wall is installed. Steep slopes should not be left with bare soil or expanses of exposed mulch because the material is likely to erode during rain events. An eroding landscape will add to our stormwater problem rather than reduce it. Conservation landscapes on steep slopes will not qualifty for a financial incentive if the slope is currently fully vegetated or if there is a more appropriate location on the property.

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Sizing Your Landscape You’ll need to determine the square footage draining to your landscape to complete the Project Approval Form. This information will also help you to decide how big your landscape should be. If there is more than one potential location, calculating the drainage area will also help to select the site that has the greatest stormwater reduction potential. Begin by measuring the lawn and landscaping that slopes towards the desired location, then measure the impervious surfaces. Your landscape will need to be at least 200 square feet or 10% of the area draining to the landscape, whichever is larger.

To calculate the overland runoff (runoff from the lawn) you can take the width of your proposed landscape and multiply it by the length to the nearest impervious surface. Keep in mind that this may include yards that are not your own. Always look beyond your property lines to find out where the water from your neighbor’s yard is flowing to. You won’t need to get it down to the square inch, but it is important to be as accurate as possible. With the naked eye you should be able to find the highpoints and calculate the drainage area.

To calculate impervious runoff, look at rooftops, driveways, patios and other hard surfaces. If those surfaces drain to the proposed site, then you’ll need to include them in your calculations. When in doubt, observe your site in the pouring rain. Nothing is more telling that watching the water run to make sure that you are accurately calculating the area draining to your landscape.

For this example, the proposed landscape is going to be in the front yard, to the east of the sidewalk and just north of the street. The landscape will intercept runoff from beneath a tree, lawn from two properties, and 1,000 square feet of rooftop.

Once you’ve determined the area draining to your project site, you’re ready to finalize the size of your new landscape. Use this equation to determine an appropriate size for your conservation landscape:

(___sq.ft. impervious area + ___sq.ft. pervious area) x .10 = ____sq.ft. conservation landscape

Example: (1,000 sq.ft. + 1,000 sq.ft.) x .10 = 200 sq.ft.

Now that you have an appropriate size for your landscaping project, you’ll want to determine the outline of your new landscape. Property lines, trees, utilities, or other site characteristics will guide this, as you won’t want to landscape below tree canopies, above some utilities or on your neighbor’s property. Your landscape should also be at least 10’ from a building foundation and 5’ from any property line.

Beyond those restrictions, your conservation landscape should be at least 5’ by 5’ at any given location in the landscape. This requirement ensures that there is enough porous or amended soils to intercept the runoff from uphill areas. In small yards, exceptions can be made, but you’ll need to take steps to be sure that your landscape is not washed away in large storms. For example, you may need to consider a retaining wall or landscape edging.

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Property image with existing conditions as well as drainage areas and a location for the proposed conservation landscape. Includes all relevant information with the exception dimensions and distances.

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Understanding and Amending Soils

Soil Characteristics and the Benefits of Healthy Soils Soils tend to fall into that ‘out of sight, out of mind’ category. We often only take note when there is a problem such as erosion, standing water or unhealthy plants. However, healthy soils provide critical ecosystem services such as filtering pollution as well as providing a growing substrate and nutrients for plants. Soils that can effectively absorb rainfall keep our streams flowing during dry weather and prevent pollution.

Determine if Soils Need to be Amended It is important to understand the infiltration capacity for each particular project area. Therefore you will need to test the soil for its level of compaction and infiltration rate. The results of these tests will help you determine whether amending the soil in your particular project location is necessary to improve infiltration. Many Baltimore yards have soil with high clay content and have been compacted by parking pads or heavy machinery, so it is likely that your conservation landscaping project will require soil amendments in order to qualify for a rebate through the Water Audit Program.

You will also want to test for pH and nutrients. You won’t need this information for the Project Approval Form, but it will be useful to determine if your soils should be amended for a reason other than infiltration capacity. More information about soil testing is available in the Resources section of this document.

Test for Compaction – The Screwdriver Test Specialized equipment is needed to get a truly accurate estimate of soil compaction. For the purposes of the Water Audit Program, you can use low-tech qualitative observations to decide if your soils fall into one of two broad categories: compacted or not compacted. Blue Water Baltimore recommends that you use the screwdriver test. If you use another test method, describe on the Project Approval Form.

1) When soils are moist, insert a 6” or longer screwdriver into the soil. Be sure that the soil is neither saturated nor dry. This test should be repeated at several locations, in the area you intend to plant. 2) Keep a record of your test results so that you can fill in the Project Approval Form correctly. A. If you can push the screwdriver completely into the ground just using your arm strength, then the soil passes. The soil is not compacted. On the project approval form you will write “passed.” B. If you cannot push the screwdriver completely into the ground just using your arm strength, then the soil fails. The soil it is likely compacted. On the project approval form you will write “failed.”

Test for Infiltration – Percolation or ‘Perc’ Test A percolation test is used to determine how effectively soil can absorb water. Ideally, a percolation test will be performed when the ground is saturated, just following a significant rain storm. Test in multiple locations if the proposed site spans areas with significantly different characteristics or if the project covers more than 250 square feet.

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1) Dig a hole 18” deep and 12” in diameter. 2) Fill the hole with water. 3) Return after an hour or two and fill it a second time. 4) If it has not rained at least half an inch in the past 24 hours, repeat Step 3 two more times. 5) Check the hole several times over 24 hours after the last filling of the hole. 6) Note how many hours it takes for the water to drain. 7) Keep a record of your test results so that you can fill in the Project Approval Form correctly. A. If the water drained within 24 hours, then the soil passed the percolation test. On the project An empty percolation test hole approval form you will write “passed” as well as the number of hours the hole took to drain when it asks for the percolation test results. B. If there is still water in the hole after 24 hours, then the soil failed the percolation test. On the project approval form you will write “failed” when it asks for the percolation test results.

What Your Test Results Mean If your soil passes both tests, you will not need to amend your soils. This means that you can grade and eliminate current ground cover without bringing in soil amendments or tilling. Tilling healthy soil will destroy its existing structure. If the existing soils pass the tests and your pH and nutrient soil tests or landscaping professional indicates that soil amendments are needed for the plants to thrive, top-dress rather than till when amending soils.

You will need to amend your soil if it fails one or both of the above tests. This will happen prior to planting.

How to Amend Your Soils In most cases, adding approximately 3” of compost and incorporating it into the soil to a depth of 9” will adequately increase the ability of your soil to infiltrate water. Any project on which the existing soils fail either of the soil tests outlined in this manual must be amended to this extent. Two options for amending your soil are as follows:

1. Remove three inches of the existing soil. Replace the removed soil with one of the following amendment options: a. 30-50% compost, and 50-70% low-clay content topsoil, well mixed b. 50% aged hardwood mulch and 50% compost, well mixed Incorporate into the soils below to ensure that soils are improved to 9”. OR 2. Do not remove soil, but add 2” of aged shredded hardwood mulch and 2” of compost, then incorporate to a depth of 5-6” of existing soil, giving you 9” of amended soils.

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In almost every case, the best soil amendment for improving drainage is one high in organic matter such as compost. Adding organic matter improves the structure of the soil, thereby increasing the availability of water, air and nutrients for plants. Blue Water Baltimore uses Leafgro, high-quality compost produced from grass clippings and leaf waste in Montgomery County, Maryland. If using mulch as a soil amendment, be sure to use aged hardwood varieties, not raw woodchips as they rob the soil of nutrients as they decompose. If your soil has small rocks, leave them in place because they provide soil structure, prevent compaction, Blue Water Baltimore staff amending soils. and improve infiltration capacity. You will probably want to remove large rocks and boulders as they will impede the mixing of soils, whether mixing by hand or using a tiller. More on amendment incorporation techniques see “Installing Your Project” section.

How much soil amendment should I buy? If you are amending soil with 3” of amendment, multiply the project square footage by .25 to get the cubic feet of needed material. You can use the same equation to calculate the volume of mulch needed. Buy at least one extra bag so that you can add extra amendment to each planting hole.

Use this equation to calculate your soil amendment volume:

_____sq.ft. of landscape x .25 = ____cubic feet of amendment

Example: 200 sq. ft. x .25 = 50 cubic feet

Native Plants

Native plants are a key component of conservation landscapes. They are superior to non-native plants in their ability to host attractive wildlife and support valuable beneficial insects and pollinators. They are adapted to local soils and climate and are better suited to reduce the amount of polluted stormwater.

Many native plants, especially herbaceous (not woody) meadow plants, have extensive root systems. These roots facilitate the infiltration of water into the ground. A portion of the root system dies back each year, creating pores for air, nutrients and water to move through the soil. These deep roots also allow native meadow grasses and wildflowers to withstand periods of drought. Typical lawn grasses have root systems only a few inches long. Our native ornamental switchgrass, in contrast, has roots that can extend nearly ten feet deep. Conservation landscapes utilizing native plants tend to require less maintenance than lawns and non- native landscapes because they do not need to be mowed and, once established, rarely need to be irrigated, treated for diseases, or fertilized.

A list of some of the native plants recommended by Blue Water Baltimore is on page 11. These plants have been identified as readily available and easy to establish in the Baltimore region. You may use this list as you are creating your planting plan, however it is not exhaustive. For more plants, see the Resources section.

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Site Conditions Groundcovers Perennials & Grasses Shrubs

Antennaria plantaginifolia Asclepias tuberosa Ceanothus americanus Plantain-leaf pussytoes Butterflyweed New Jersey tea Cerastium arvense Baptisia australis Comptonia peregrina Field chickweed Wild blue indigo Sweet fern Phlox subulata Echinacea purpurea Hypericum densiflorum Moss phlox Purple coneflower Dense St. John’s wort Sporobolus heterolepis Panicum virgatum Ilex glabra Prairie dropseed Switchgrass Inkberry holly Sun to Partial Sun Vaccinium angustifolium Penstemon digitalis Myrica cerifera Lowbush blueberry Foxglove beardtongue Southern bayberry & Dry Penstemon laevigatus Morella pensylvanica Eastern smooth beardtongue Northern bayberry Rudbeckia fulgida Photinia melanocarpa Black -eyed Susan Black chokeberry Schizachyrium scoparium Rhus aromatica Little bluestem Fragrant sumac Solidago rugosa* Vaccinium corymbosum Wrinkleleaf goldenrod Highbush blueberry Symphyotrichum laeve var. laeve Smooth blue aster

Chrysogonum virginianum Conoclinium coelestinum Cephalanthus occidentalis Green & gold Blue mistflower Buttonbush Phlox stolonifera Chelone glabra Clethra alnifolia Creeping phlox White turtlehead Sweet pepperbush Sun to Partial Sun Eupatorium dubium Cornus racemosa Joe-pye weed Gray dogwood & Moist Lobelia cardinalis Itea virginica* Cardinal flower Virginia sweetspire Lobelia siphilitica Ilex verticillata Great blue lobelia Winterberry holly Monarda didyma Physocarpus opulifolius Beebalm Ninebark

Carex appalachica Aquilegia canadensis Hamamelis virginiana Pennsylvania sedge Eastern red columbine Witch hazel Shade to Partial Shade Heuchera americana Chasmanthium latifolium Rhododendron atlanticum American alumroot Northern woodland oats Coastal azalea & Dry Sedum ternatum Dryopteris marginalis Rubus odoratus Mountain stonecrop Eastern wood fern Purple flowering raspberry Eurybia divaricata Viburnum acerifolium White wood aster Maple-leaved viburnum

Asarum canadense Mertensia virginica Clethra alnifolia Wild ginger Virginia bluebells Sweet pepperbush Tiarella cordifolia* Osmunda cinnamomea Ilex verticillata Shade to Partial Shade Foam flower Cinnamon fern Winterberry holly Phlox divaricata Osmunda regalis Lindera benzoin & Moist Woodland phlox Royal fern Spicebush Pachysandra procumbens Tradescantia virginiana Viburnum dentatum Allegheny spurge Virginia spiderwort Southern arrowwood Viburnum prunifolium Black haw

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Create a Planting Plan

Now that you know more about your site, and have selected a location for your landscape, you are ready to draw up your planting plan. Use the site plan that you’ve already completed to determine the landscape location. A planting plan will help you to visualize your finalized landscape and budget for the number of plants needed. A planting plan is required for the Project Approval Form.

If you are including trees in your landscape, plant your tree so that a significant majority of the mature canopy and the entire trunk will remain on your property. Trees with a mature height of less than 25 feet may be safely planted under overhead utility lines, while taller trees should be planted at least 20 feet from the lines. Whenever possible, plant canopy trees on the southeast and southwest corners of the house to provide shade for the building during the summer months.

When selecting plants for your landscape, be sure to take into account their mature size height and width as well as recommended planting distances. To obtain a rebate, perennials must be planted no farther than 8- 12” on center, the plant list must be at least 80% native by number and cannot include any invasive species.

To determine the number of plants, begin by calculating the total number of perennials you would need if they were to be the only perennials in the landscape. You’ll need between 1 to 2 plants per square foot. If you’re not sure how to do this on your own, there is a plant spacing calculator in the Resources section.

When including shrubs, you can omit one perennial for each square foot that will be occupied by larger plants. For example, a mature blueberry that is 4’ wide will take up about 12 square feet, so subtract 12 perennials from the planting plan. Planting densely may cost more up front, but it will save you from many extra hours of weeding and it ensures that the landscape will be reducing runoff immediately. For more detailed directions on creating a planting plan, see the Resources section.

Installing Your Project

Eliminating Turf Grass There are three physical (non-chemical) ways that Blue Water Baltimore suggests for removing turf grass: sheet mulching, sod cutting, and tilling. Select the method that is best for you based on your site conditions, timeline, and budget.

Sheet Mulching (also known as the “Smother and Cover Method” or “Lasagna Composting”) is the most natural and inexpensive way to kill turf grass. This method requires a minimum of two to four months, the longest time period in comparison to the other methods outlined herein. Sheet mulching requires few resources and takes advantage of organic matter that may have been built up by existing vegetation. This is a good option if you start a project in the spring or fall and plan to finish the project the following fall or spring, respectively. This method is best in locations where you are planning to mound your landscape to intercept runoff and the soils pass both the Screwdriver and Perc Tests.

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Place a decomposable physical barrier such as wet newspaper or cardboard over the grass or weeds. Alternate layers of compost, grass clippings, or mulch, three to four inches thick with layers of cardboard. Starved for light and air, the unwanted plants will die. After 3-6 months, dig planting holes through the top layers and plant.

Use of a sod-cutter is the quickest of the three methods outlined herein. Gas powered and manual sod cutters are available for rent from many hardware stores and equipment rental businesses. Removing the turf altogether eliminates a good portion of un-germinated weed seeds and may minimize future weed pressure on your conservation landscape. This method will result in a slightly recessed area for your new landscape, which in locations with a slope of less than 5% is ideal for stream-friendly conservation landscaping. This method is best in locations where you are planning to recess your landscaping or where you know you will be tilling and amending the soils.

Eliminating turf grass with a rototiller or by double digging are methods which are time and labor intensive. One benefit to these techniques is that no soil or organic materials are removed from the site. Double digging is the process of loosening two layers of soil and replacing the top layer with the bottom layer and vice versa. Tilling or digging conserves the organic matter in the topsoil but also preserves the weed seeds. This method is best in locations where you are planning to mound your landscaping and where you know you will be tilling and amending the soils.

Erosion Control While you are installing your project, prevent exposed soil from washing away. Cover the site and all exposed soil with tarps when you are not working. Place straw bales or silt fencing downhill from the site to prevent the soil from washing away and becoming a pollutant.

Avoid Compaction Avoid compacting your soil so that your plants remain healthy and your landscape maintains its ability to absorb rainwater. Reduce the likelihood of compaction during the installation phase by laying down boards in a way that allows access to the project area but distributes your weight over greater areas of the soil. Ideally, boards should be 6-8” wide and at least 4’ long. You can also reduce compaction over the lifetime of your landscape by placing stepping stones strategically throughout your landscape.

Planting Students planting at a Blue Water When planting, place the plant into the soil so that the top of the root ball or Baltimore City School project. soil in the pot is level with the surrounding soil. If in doubt, plant higher rather than lower, as plants will settle. Add extra soil amendment to the planting hole to give your plants an extra nutrient boost as they are getting established. Avoid covering the stem with soil or mulch, as it will damage the plant.

Request a Rebate Once your project is installed and invoices are paid, it’s finally time to request a rebate! Be sure that there is no exposed soil or potential erosion problem. Your project will be inspected to ensure all standards were met before your check is processed. You can expect to receive your rebate check 2 months after the request is received by Blue Water Baltimore.

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Establishing & Maintaining Your Landscape

Irrigation Irrigate immediately after planting and mulching your new landscape. Typically, one to two hours of watering is sufficient, however the time needed may depend on your water pressure and the size of the area you are irrigating. Periodically check the soil moisture below the mulch layer. The ideal depth of moisture is to 4”.

During the first year or two, between April and October, water your landscape regularly. Approximately once or twice a week during dry periods will suffice. When precipitation is less than an inch a week, consider irrigating. When in doubt, check the moisture of the soil at around 4”. If the soils are moist, you do not need to irrigate. The ideal time to irrigate is early morning, between 5:00 and 7:00 am. Watering at this time of day minimizes loss to evaporation and reduces the likelihood that your plants will suffer from mold and fungus which thrive in cool moist environments. After 1-2 years, once plants are established, you will only need to irrigate during extremely dry or hot periods of weather.

Mulching & Fertilizing Mulching is an important part of helping your landscape thrive. Mulch conserves soil moisture, reduces the number of weeds, helps prevent erosion, keeps plant roots cool, breaks down to build soil, and provides winter protection. Use organic and natural mulches, rather than dyed, rubber or other synthetic mulch materials.

To obtain a rebate, you must mulch a finished conservation landscape with 2-3” of aged shredded hardwood mulch. Remember not to apply the mulch adjacent to plant stems. More densely planted landscapes will require less mulch. As your landscape is getting established, mulching may be required once every one or two years to suppress weeds and build soils. A mature conservation landscape needs minimal mulching, particularly if expired plant material is allowed to decompose in place.

In an undisturbed ecosystem, nature provides a constant supply of mulch and fertilizer in the form of leaves and fallen branches. Therefore, it is best to leave leaf litter and stems where they fall in your landscape. The decomposition of these materials adds nutrients and organic content to the soil. Leaf litter also serves as a blanket for the soil and plants during the winter, protecting them from harsh weather and fluctuating temperatures.

If compost has been used to amend the soils, it will serve as a nutrient base for new landscapes, eliminating the need for additional fertilizer application. Many native plants thrive in low nutrient soils, giving them a competitive advantage over weeds. In many cases, if a plant appears to be under stress it will likely be harmed – not helped – by fertilization. Furthermore, the excess application of fertilizer by homeowners is a leading cause of pollution in the Chesapeake Bay. If fertilization is needed, use natural slow-release fertilizers such as bone meal, cottonseed meal, kelp, greensand, or composted garden manure. You may also top-dress your landscape with leaf compost or another soil amendment. Whenever you top-dress or fertilize, be sure to minimize erosion and runoff. Organic matter and nutrients are good for plants, but they are also primary culprits in the degradation of our streams and the Chesapeake Bay, so be sure to apply them in a responsible manner. Before applying any fertilizer to any landscape, including lawns, Blue Water Baltimore suggests that

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homeowners test their soil for nutrient levels and/or consult with a gardening professional. More information on soil testing can be found in the Resources section.

Plant Substitutes and Additions As your landscape matures, you may identify areas that would benefit from the addition of an existing or a different species of plant. Many native plants can be propagated by splitting the root mass; others should only be spread by seed. Research your plants before propagating to ensure success. If you move, add, or transplant your plants, be sure to do this during the spring or the fall followed up by generous watering.

Weeding Your conservation landscape will need to be weeded periodically. The more weeds removed in the first two years, the less weeding you will have to do in the following years. Over time your plants will grow and spread, shading out the weeds. Mark your plants if you are not familiar with them to avoid accidentally pulling them out. To minimize weeding over the long term, plant more densely. It may add time and cost to plant more densely when your project is installed, but more densely planted landscapes will shade and out-compete weeds sooner, minimizing the need for extra work in years to come.

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Glossary

BMP or Best Management Practice- a method, process or technique which is most effective in achieving an outcome Berm- A constructed barrier of earth Contributing Drainage Area (CDA)- An area that from which water will flow to a certain point of interest (to a downspout, into a rain garden, etc.) Conveyance- A means of transport or flow; conveyance systems can be natural (streams, rivers and wetlands) or constructed (downspouts, pipes and channels) Grade or Slope- expressed as a percent; determined by dividing vertical rise over horizontal run then multiplying by 100 Impervious- Unable to let water pass; impervious surfaces include driveways, parking pads, and sidewalks Infiltration- Absorption or passage of liquid through a filtering medium (such as soil) Invasive Species- A plant or animal that is non-native or alien to the ecosystem and whose introduction causes harm to environmental and human health Mulch- Covering an area of ground to prevent erosions and weeds; Mulch can also provide insulation for soil and plants Native Plant- A plant that has evolved in a particular ecosystem over thousands of years without influence from people; many plants are native to the Chesapeake Bay watershed, and the plants we recommend are native to Maryland’s Coastal Plain and Piedmont regions On Center (o.c.)-Description used for plant distances; this distance is measured from the center of one plant to the center of the neighboring plant Overland Drainage- Water flowing over the surface of the ground due to saturation (soil is unable to absorb any more water) or the presence of impervious surface Percolation- The movement of fluids through a porous materials or filter Perennial - A plant that may die back during winter months but returns year after year Pervious- Able to let water pass through; pervious surfaces include landscaping, gardens and turf Soil Compaction- Occurs when soil particles are pressed together, reducing the ability to absorb water; Compaction is common in the Baltimore region given the high clay content in the soil and modern construction techniques Stormwater-The water that runs off of impervious and pervious surfaces; the leading cause of water pollution in urban areas Swale- A shallow ditch in landscape to convey water Top-dressing- The application of one inch or less of soil amendment to the surface of the ground where it will be slowly incorporated into the existing soils by the actions of invertebrates such as earthworms

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Resources

Mapping Resources Plant and Landscaping Resources

Baltimore County “My Neighborhood” Arbor Day Foundation http://myneighborhood.baltimorecountymd.gov/ Right Tree, Right Place City of Baltimore “City View” http://www.arborday.org/trees/righttreeandplace http://cityview.baltimorecity.gov/ /righttree.cfm

Google Maps https://maps.google.com/ Conservation Landscaping Guidelines: The Eight Essential Elements of Conservation Landscaping Yahoo Maps http://maps.yahoo.com/ Chesapeake Conservation Landscaping Council http://www.chesapeakelandscape.org/

Yard Certifications & Recognition Programs Plant Invaders of Mid-Atlantic Natural Areas National Park Service & United States Fish and Bay-Wise Certification Wildlife Service A program of the Maryland Master Gardeners. A http://www.nps.gov/plants/alien/pubs/midatlanti Master Gardener will come to your property, c/midatlantic.pdf assess many characteristics, and then rate them, giving your yard a score. Plant Spacing Calculator www.mastergardener.umd.edu http://www.landscapecalculator.com/

Backyard Habitat Certification Program Home and Garden Information & ‘Send-a- A program of National Wildlife Federation. Question’ Includes checklists to ensure that your yard has all University of Maryland Extension Service the essential elements and resources for wildlife. http://www.hgic.umd.edu/index.cfm www.nwf.org/CertifiedWildlifeHabitat/

Maryland’s Wild Acres Native Plants for Wildlife Habitat and A program of Maryland Department of Natural Conservation Landscaping: Chesapeake Bay Resources. Encourage landscapes across the State Watershed that maximize wildlife benefits and United States Fish & Wildlife Service stewardship. This is not a certification program. http://www.nativeplantcenter.net/ www.dnr.state.md.us/wildlife/Habitat/WildAcres/ Measuring Slope http://raingardenalliance.org/right/slope

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Soil Testing and Amendment Resources: Estimating Soil Texture

Colorado State University http://cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/214.pdf

Natural Resources Conservation Service Technical classification of soils http://soils.usda.gov/technical/classification/ Understanding soils http://soils.usda.gov/ Hydrologic Soil Classification http://www.cpesc.org/reference/tr55.pdf

Guide to Texture by Feel http://soils.usda.gov/education/resources/lessons/tex ture/

Wilderness Site Restoration

United States Forest Service http://www.fs.fed.us/t- d/pubs/htmlpubs/htm06232815/page04.htm

University of Maryland

Soil Maintenance Guide http://www.hgic.umd.edu/content/soil.cfm Soil Amendments and Soil Testing Laboratories http://www.hgic.umd.edu/content/documents/hg 42_002.pdf http://www.hgic.umd.edu/content/SoilTesting.cf m

Mulching for a Healthy Landscape Clean Water. Strong Communities. Virginia Tech http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/426/426-724/426-724.html

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