The Switch is ON!

If you want the number one battery clock movement, the M81 and M81A are the logical choice.

Near Pure Accuracy! Proven Reliability! A Fantastic NEW Price! From CAS·KER CO. • 4,194,304 Hz Quartz Crystal Oscillator • Accurate to±- 1 minute a year (59°F to 77°F) • Operational Range 14°F to 122°F • Slide switch, exact to the second setting • Movement size: 80x60x 27 mm (3-1/8x 2-3/8 x 1-1/16 in.) • Runs over a year on a standard "C" cell

You will find the M81 movement in new clocks retailing at $100.00 and up. Volume production ,--11-w_o_Y_e_a_r_G_u_a-ra_n_t_e_e--,l for new clocks lowers the per unit cost of manufacturing and we pass the savings along to you.

Prices INCLUDE Polished Brass Finished Hands, Mounting Nuts, Hangers, etc. 1 or 2 @ •••••••••$8. 75 each 25@ $6.50each 3 to 9 @ •••••••••$8.00 each Hands included 10 to 24 @ •••••••$7 .45 each Add $1.50 per order for shipping to 48 states. Add 30 ¢each for second hands.

The M81 movement flaunts its quartz technology The M81A is the same as the M81 except that the with the second hand advancing at precise one second second hand, if used, advances continuously. intervals. We recommend that the M81A be used in all applications except those in which exhibition of the step second serves a purpose. Since the flow of power is continuous in the M81A, it delivers more than twice as much torque to the dial train. Copyrighted 0 .1 9 7 9 . Reproduction in whole or part without express written permiasion of the Cas·Ker Co. iB prohibited. OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE

VOLUME 3, NUMBER 2 FEBRUARY 1979

~ ... ORVILLE R. HAGANS 4 THE PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE

J. RUGOLE 6 WATCH ADJUSTMENTS February 15 through The Laws Under Ideal Conditions March 15 is FRED S. BURCKHARDT 10 THE ROCK QUARRY the AWl Membership Drive ..•..

HENRY B. FRIED 14 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS George Daniels

MARVIN E. WHITNEY 16 THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER Testing and Adjusting

OTTO BENESH 20 CLOCK CHATTER Work Control

Sign a new member today! SEAN c. "PAT" MONK 24 ESSENCE OF CLOCK REPAIR The English 30-Hour Long-Case See articles inside for details!! ARCHIE B. PERKINS 32 TECHNICALLY WATCHES Setting Bezel Jewels, Part 2

EXTRAS WILLARD BLAKLEY 36 AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN

Bench Tips...... 8 New Members ...... 28, 29 MILTON C. STEVENS 39 AWl NEWS Book Review ...... 30 News in the Trade ...... 42 J. RUGOLE 40 SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING New Prod'!-lcts ...... 52 Classified Ads ...... 53 Dates to Remember ...... 54 ORVILLE R. HAGANS 44 IN THE SPOTLIGHT A WI Bench Col-lrses ...... 55 Rare 17th Century Clocks Advertisers' Index ...... 56

Horologi.cal Times is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers Institute, Harold]. Herman, Editor, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Reprinting and Reproduction is prohibited without permission from the American Watch­ makers Insititute. Subscription, $30.00 per year, $4.00 per copy in the United States and $36.00 per year, $5.00 per copy outside the United States. Second class postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. Copyright@1979 by the American Watchmakers Institute. 6Jitorz"af Executive and Editorial Offices AWl Central P.O. Box 11011 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838 The foot bone is connected to the ankle bone, and the ankle bone is connected to the shin bone, and etcetera, etcetera, etcetera. And if the connections do not go all Harold J. Herman: Editor Thomas J. Herman: Managing Editor the way to the head bone, what will tell the foot bone Patricia Borger: Associate Editor what to do or in what direction to travel? LuAnn Martin: Art Director Now all of you out there who head this organization Michael P. Danner: Business Manager and pay your $30.00 per year dues to the American Mildred Howard: Circulation Manager Watchmakers Institute, should insure the thigh bone Lee Rothan: Circulation and hip bone. If all of that is insured, then you can help keep the foot bone on solid, level ground. And since Technical Editors: Otto Benesh Joseph Rugole two heads are better than one, we foot bones at AWl James H. Broughton Leslie L. Smith Central can serve you better if we increase the number Fred S. Burckhardt William 0. Smith, Jr. of heads. Joe Crooks James L. Tigner Paul Fisk Marvin E. Whitney Henry B. Fried The American Watchmakers Institute official member­ Orville R. Hagans ship drive is from February 15th to March 15th. Ewell D. Hartman Gerald G. Jaeger Sean C. Monk As you all know, to accomplish anything worthwhile Robert A. Nelson requires a little backbone. JOIN A NEW MEMBER!!! Archie B. Perkins

A WI Officers: (Membership application on page 56.) Orville R. Hagans, CMW, CMC: President Leslie L. Smith, CMW: 1st V.P. Joe Crooks: 2nd V.P. Karl Buttner, CMW: Secretary Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC: Treasurer

A WI Directors: Dorothy M. Aderman Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC Ewell D. Hartman, CMW Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW Donald W. Leverenz, CMW Charles H. Mann About the Cover Sean C. Monk, CMW Robert A. Nelson, CMW Marshall Richmond, CMW William 0. Smith, Jr. Pictured on our February cover is a wintery view of Loch Garry in Willard Blakley, CMW: Affiliate Chapter Direct, the Western Highlands of Scotland. Joseph Rugole, CMW: Research and Education Council Chairman

Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director

2 Horological Times/Febrnary 1979 JlilARSHALL-~WARTCHILD MONEY-SAVERS I MONEY-MAKERS {NOBODY---BUT NOBODY---UNDERSELLS US!)

Avoid stress and strain- use the 8 most-popular numbers, regularly 88¢-$1.05, now only POSTURE/COMFORT 65¢ each. Indicate quantity: BENCH CHAIR __392 Enjoy full-size, fully-cushioned 303 _343 _386 seat ... adjustable height-17 to 323 _ 357 _389 _393 20" .. spring-action padded back rest . complete 360° swivel. rest __ 384- .95 325 - .80 arms (removable) . smooth-rolling __ 344- .95 __387-1.18 __354- .95 __388- .95 covered ball-bearing casters. __ 395-1.05 $65 VALUE-REDUCED TO $42.50 ( ) Send #MSA-110 BENCH CHAIR(S)

For Convenience-as a safeguard- M-S CHECK CLAIM ENVELOPES

N! to~; - -- QUANTITY STOCK NO. SIZE COMPARABLES EVEREADY MALLORY OTHER Practical, businesslike, appreciated YOUR NAME AND ADDRESS HERE RW42 303 WS14 Timex A by all repairmen handling precious 357 10L14 Bulova 288 and valuable articles. Fill-in de­ tails, detach claim check, qive to RW44 301 WS11 TimexD customer. !~r.:• 101!17 386 Standard-size 3-l/8" x 5-l/2" RW47 384 WS10 envelope, strong paper. Clean per­ 10L125 forations for easy-tearing checks. Numbered in any thousand num­ RW48 309 bers to 99,999. Imprinted with 393 your name. (Sorry, no logos­ RW49 389 straight type copy only.)

RW51 387 W2 Bulova 214 We have our own presses-we save RW52 313 WH3 you money on check claim YOUR NAME envelopes. AND .t.DOR£SS HER£ RW54 354 10R11 SPECIAL BONUS, FEBRUARY RW56 343 WH4 Timex B & MARCH: $3.00/THOUSAND WH12NM Bulova 218 CREDIT-ALLOWANCE ON RW57 325 WH1 PRINTING ORDERS. RW58 323 WH6 Timexc DOUBLE-DUTY TRIPLE DUTY RW25 365 10L19 10L129 H782836 Buff Paper H780036 Buff Paper H782840 White Paper Identical numbers on envelopes, 59-{;ENTS EACH -NO MINIMUM -RAY.0-VAC DIGITRONIC · 59-{;ENTS EACH Identical numbers on claim checks, shop record In books of 25 TIMEX GENUINE ENERGY CELLS envelopes and claim check. Packed in boxes. Reg. $1.05-NOW ONLY 84¢ EACH __ A __ c __ F Prices per thousand, numbered, name imprinted __ B __ D __ H DOUBLE DUTY TRIPLE DUTY 782838 or 782840 780036 ORDER BY PHONE. TOLL-FREE. WEEKDAYS. 9 - 4. CHICAGO­ 1,000 (Min.) $34.75 $36.50 TIME: IN IlliNOIS - 800-972-3776. All OTHER STATES 5,000 31.27 32.84 (EXCEPT ALASKA. HAWAII) - 800-621-4 767 . ORDER BY MAIL 10,000 29.70 31 .20 - P.O. BOX 716. CHICAGO. ll60690. OR VISIT ONE OF OUR Specify numbering series wanted (1-1,000, for OFFICES. example, or 6,001-10,000) Quick credit to accounts well rated by either f!lARSHALL-~WARTCHILD Dun & Bradstreet or Jewelers Board of Trade 2040 Milwaukee Ave .. Chicago . ll60647 - 312/278-2300 Name ------1512 Commerce St .. Dallas. TX 75201 - 214-741-1454 Firm ------657 Mission St .. San Francisco . CA 94105-415-421-2153 Address ------

1425 Fourth Ave .. Seattle. WA 98101 - 206-682-6158 City-State-Zip------

February 1979/Horological Times 3 BY ORVILLE R. HAGANS, CMW, CMC, FBHI

This is the month our national membership campaign goes into full swing, February 15 to March 15, and from reports the en­ tire industry and profession are well prepared and started on MEMBERSHIP the program. It is hoped that each member and the affiliated groups will make this drive the largest ever promoted. Our profession is well on the way to greater accom­ To all members, committees, state associations plishments. We must have greater numbers in order to reach and guilds-please take note of the established and help those who are not with us- those who are com­ drive for membership February 15-March 15. plaining about the numerous obstacles in the profession­ those who have become disheartened and worry about the Our membership chairman, Vice Presi­ future but will not endeavor to seek guidance and counsel dent leslie L. Smith, and his committee have regarding how to cope with today and the future. made extensive plans to make 1979 the greatest Our forefathers of the profession had their prob­ drive and membership increase in history, which lems, just as annoying as ours, but they overcame them through will enable AWl to better serve you and expand counseling with others who knew there is nothing insur­ mountable if one has a sincere desire to improve himself as services. well as others. Wholesalers, states, guilds, schools-in Man can accomplish little without communicating fact, every facet of our industry-are being and counseling with others; therefore, it is up to each of us supplied with material for this exciting and to contact those who are not members to enlighten them of beneficial membership drive. the many services provided by AWl to its members. You know Every member should participate in this the value of membership, that is why you belong; that is why membership drive. If each of you would sign up you read, study, and profit from being an intricate part of AWI. If you do not take time to enroll those who are not one member, your national association would members, you are hurting yourself and the profession. We can­ become a much stronger and broader education­ not afford to ignore problems and non-members are a prob­ al institute. lem to themselves and our profession and you. No other organization in the profession I give many hours daily in behalf of your professional has the resources to match what you have Institute, and needless to say, I do not expect you to devote such time, but won't you please give your profession 10 or 15 created to improve the horologist. let's all put minutes a day in contacting non-members. forth an effort to accomplish its objectives. Should you have any ideas to improve our profession I also recommend that we not stop the won't you please drop a letter to me. We need and want ideas drive after 30 days-let's make it a 365-day of others. project-it's to your benefit. My greatest compensation is to see a reluctant person see the light and im prove his lot in li fe-it's a great satisfaction. AWl Central will assist you or your Try it, I am sttre you will like it-the personal satisfaction of group in every possible way. If you need guid­ helping your fellow man. ance or supplies, do not hesitate to contact them. ~~

4 Horological Times/Febrnary 1979 You could spend around $3000 for a digital promotional display. display multi-function rate .measuring in­ Pay $2000 or $3000 for a timer? Ridiculous. strument. Now that Citizen's CQT-101 is here. But it isn't necessary. Place your order with your material house The Citizen CQT-101 can measure not only or directly to Citizen Watch Company. For quartz watches (analog and digital) but also more information, write: Citizen Watch Co. of tuning fork and balance wheel watches with America, Inc., Service Headquarters, 12140 all the accuracy you need. W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90064 .. Its measuring range is from 0.01 second a Tel.: (213) 826-6541. day to ±399 seconds per day. To monitor various types of watches and clocks, you simply change the microphone. The CQT-101 is the only quartz timing in­ IZ We sell with you, not through you. strument you'll ever need. And even when it's not helping you build *Suggested retail. Price does not include shipping and mic­ rophone for mechanical watches. Sales tax additional in your service business, its attractive, profes­ California. sional look makes it in an effective in-store running in different positions. It is easy to see that when the watch is placed in any one of the pendant positions, the balance will stop sooner than if it is left to oscillate in dial positions. This means that the forces acting on the balance must have been either greater in number, or of greater in­ tensity, or both. Further experiments show that the force of gravity, of which we will have more to say later, also has an effect on the balance wheel if the wheel is out of poise. It is only effec­ tive when the balance is found in some vertical positions. If the balance wheel oscillates in one of the horizontal posi­ tions, the out of poise condition shows no effect on its per­ formance. There are still two other forces acting on the balance during normal operation of a watch. One of them is the un­ locking friction of the escapement, and the other is the im­ pulse itself. Let us briefly examine each of them separately. When the watch is wound a little, we observe that the pallet will always press against one of the banking pins. This action is necessary so that the pallet does not interfere with the free motion of the balance wheel before and after its engagement with the pallet. The force keeping the pallet pressed against the banking pin is known as draw and is achieved by fitting the pallet stones at an angle to the radial line passing from the l\~A\lr~Citi center of the escape wheel through the point of contact between the pallet and the escape ":'heel tooth. Although this A\l[)JJ IU~lr ~\IE~lr~ force is necessary for proper operation of the balance wheel, it is an interference to the balance rrtotion because the balance has to spend some of its energy to unlock the escapement. Because the balance wheel is forced to spend some of its energy (kinetic energy) on all of these forces acting against by Joseph Rugole, CMW it, the energy created during each successive vibration of the balance is smaller than the preceding one, and if it is not supplemented by an additional force, the balance will soon stop moving. This additional force is the impulse. Although THE LAWS UNDER IDEAL CONDITIONS the watch could not operate without it, it will be shown later that even the impulse is causing interference with the regulari­ Some readers will likely question the reasons for discussing the ty of the balance motion. ideal conditions under which a watch could operate, arguing , To summarize briefly, we have the elasticity of the that they are not obtainable, and even if they were, we usually hairspring and the impulse as two forces propelling the bal­ would not have or could not afford the time to create them. ance, and air friction, pivot friction, internal friction of the In this sense the argument is quite valid. However, when we hairspring, the force of gravity, and the unlocking friction, as want to understand why watches behave the way they do, the forces tending to slow down the motion of the balance. easiest and the most direct way is to compare the ideal to the Ideally, the balance wheel will maintain the most regular actual situation. motion when it is the least interfered with. Since it is not The branch of physics dealing with motion is called possible to achieve motion without interference, the regularity dynamics, and we will have to refer to some of the laws of of motion will then depend on the ratio between the kinetic dynamics to explain certain conditions existing in watches. energy created, and the energy necessary to overcome these One of the laws of dynamics states that if a body is in motion, interferences. (Kinetic energy will be further discussed later.) it will continue to move indefmitely unless there is some It is also essential that the forces effecting the balance be as force (or forces) acting on it in the opposite direction which constant as is physically possible. will cause it to slow down and stop. The balance wheel is a One of the most difficult tasks in mechanical watch­ perfect example for illustrating this law. Grasp the hairspring making is to achieve the minimum variation of amplitude for somewhere near the stud, suspend the balance on it and set all positions. According to Hooke's Law (Dr. Robert Hooke, it in motion. Lower the balance unit until the bottom pivot 1635-1703), the tension of a spring is proportional to the touches a hard surface, preferably glass, and observe it. Soon angle through which the spring is wound or deflected. Thus the motion of the balance, otherwise known as amplitude, if the angle is twice as large, the tension of the spring is also will diminish, and eventually the balance will stop moving. By going to be twice as large. This well known fact has very seri­ the law of dynamics mentioned above, there had to be some ous implications in watchmaking. We would normally expect forces acting on the balance to bring it to a stop. What forces that the watch hairspring would behave exactly according to were they? Basically three: pivot friction, air friction, and the Hooke's Law, but unfortunately, this is not always the case. internal friction of the hairspring. These three forces always Let me illustrate the problem by an example. act on the balance, and the larger they are , the sooner will If a balance wheel is turned to one side of the line they bring the balance to rest. There are other forces as well. of centers through an angle of 90°, there will be a certain When we place the balance wheel in a watch from which the pallet has been removed, we can experiment with the balance (Continued on page 23)

6 Horological Times/February 1979 ThisSeiko Technical Library can make you a Seiko expert.

The Seiko Technical Library contains every­ 4. Seiko Casing Parts List- How to identify thing you need to know about repairing Seiko and order casing parts such as crowns. watches. It's complete, very informative and gaskets, hands. dials, crystals, etc. easy-to-use. Our 4-volume set includes: Seiko has a nationwide network of 150 1. Seiko Watch Technical Guide- Useful rauthorized material distributors who are fully information outlining the disassembly !stocked with quality Seiko parts. Which means and reassembly of all basic Seiko movements. you'll have no difficulty getting the parts you 2. Seiko Watch Parts Catalog-A complete need whenever you need them-to repair breakdown of both men's and ladies' watch any model we sell. movements. Makes the identification and To get your complete Seiko Technical ordering of all Seiko parts simple and easy. Library, send your check or money order for 3. Seiko Watch Parts Interchangeability $15 .00 to: Seiko Time Corporation. Technical List-Save money on stock parts control Service Department. 555 West 57th Street. by knowing the relationships of parts New York, N.Y 10019. common to various Seiko calibres. SEIKQ

FebrualJ' 1979/Horological Times 7 BENCH TIPS

with Joe Crooks

Dren Duffy of Houston, Texas submitted this tip to restore Charles Mann of Tacoma, Washington sends us these three old antique center wheels on the dial side with hypodermic useful bench tips. needles. (1) In modern hunting cases, when a stem is broken I have found stainless steel hypodermic needles quite the pusher tube that activates the cover release spring is useful in the repair of antiques and old, badly worn watches. frequently lost. These are seldom available at material houses These needles come in a variety of sizes, are thin-walled, quite and most case tube assortments don't contain one long enough. elastic, tough and malleable. They take a fair polish and can Hobby shops usually stock metal tubing that is ideal for the be used as sleeves, bushings, and washers. purpose. It is simple to cut a piece to the desired length. The most common use I have found is for the repair (2) In many of these watches there are several of the lower center pivot on the center wheel. On old watches, places that permit dirt to enter the movement. One of these, this is a common problem and no center wheel staffs are the stem, can be improved. Most hobby shops have plastic available. The old pivot can be reduced, if necessary, until tubing in various sizes. By covering the portion of the stem there is no more shoulder for the cannon pinion to butt inside the pendant post and greasing the tubing inside and out against. A sleeve made of a hypo needle can then be stretched with silicone, much of the dirt is trapped that would otherwise over the center staff to form a new bearing pivot. By leaving enter the movement. Also, put silicone around the hinge spring the outside diameter larger than the original, corrections can on the front lid where it has a large opening into the move­ be made for wear on the lower plate. ment. If the worn pivot is resurfaced there is little or no (3) To center a chronograph sweep hand, press a shoulder for the cannon pinon to butt against. The new sleeve small amount of Rodico "One Touch" on the dial of a chrono­ can. be almost finished, drilled, broached or polished before graph or stop watch inside the "60" marker. By anchoring the being separated from the hypo needle. It should be made tip of the sweep hand in it, it is easy to zero in place while about 0.03 mm too small for the pivot so it can be squeezed pressing it on the pinion. or driven home securely and permanently. See the accompanying figures, before and after Send your bench tips to Jingle Joe Crooks, 265 N. Main repairs. Street, Mooresville, NC 28115. We will use them with your name and address.

Loose Cannon Pinion Hypodermic Needle ~ Wornpivot Cannon Bearing Sleeve Worn Corrected Shoulder

Main plate Main plate Center wheel Center' wheel pinion

8 Horological Times/February 1979 Febrnary 1979/Horo/ogical Times 9 l

Basic Gemology for the Repair Shop by Fred S. Burckhardt

In any store that has a large volume of repair work, with A drop of epoxy at the girdle of the stone where it touches the hundreds of jobs passing through the shop each month, it is prong will help prevent some loss. Make it a habit to look imperative that the people taking in the work be familiar with these over carefully and advise the customer of potential the different kinds of jewelry and the stones they may con­ trouble. tain. A few quick checks are all that is necessary when looking over an article. Some of the major trouble spots are Taking in jewelry for repair should be done in such listed below. a way that customers will have no questions or complaints Prongs and settings-be sure to check all prongs to see when they return fo.r the article. As an illustration, let's say .a if they are worn, broken, bent or cracked. On wedding sets, customer leaves a rin g to be sized and you quote the price of where the two rings are constantly rubbing together, check $12. 50 to do the job. Wh oever does the sizing finds a prong for wear on the shanks and the underbezel. You'll find some broken off and retips it, increasing the price by $5.00. When rings where the underbezel is completely worn through. the customer comes in to pick it up and you hit him with a If the shank has worn thin, recommend a new half or charge of .$17.50, instead of the quoted price of $12.50, full shank, especially if the customer wants the ring sized. If you're going to have an unhappy customer on your hands. not, you'll have to live with it because they'll keep bringing it Regardless of what you do, you'll end up losing money, a back to have it straightened or to be resoldered when it cracks. customer, or both. If you would have looked the ting over Anytime you take in a ring with a bent shank, always check it would hav_e saved what is usually a very unpleasant ex­ for any cracks around the shank and the top of the ring. perience. Let's be honest about it, in a case like tltis, you can't Quite often, this will cause the settings to spread and the blame the customer if he complain s. stones will be loose. It can also be just the opposite-the settings can be squeezed together and possibly break a stone. Checking jewelry for repair is the same as checking The same thing could occur when a ring is to be made a lot a watch or clock. There are certain things to look for in larger or smaller. If you are not sure, check with the jeweler order to give an accurate estimate. We know there are parts in or you might end up having to pay for some additional labor timepieces that can wear or cause trouble. The same is true or stone replacement. with jewelry. Over the years you learn to look for certain Rings with stones that set up high on four prong set­ things when taking in a repair job, whether it be a ring, brooch, tings can also cause some difficulty. The long prongs will have bracelet, earrings, or any other piece of jewelry. All rings, for very little strength. The stone will keep coming loose or if instance, have similar characteristics which make it easy to given a blow it will pop out of the setting. Here again, you will spot some things that could cause problems. For example, the have to live with the job unless you recommend the addition princess or pagoda rings, purchased in the Far East, can be of more prongs, heavier prongs or a support or brace connect­ very troublesome. They have several tiers of small stones set in ing the prongs to give them more strength. a cluster style. The prongs are very lightweight and there is no Fraternal rings with applied emblems may have to way to keep the stones from coming out. A blow or catching a be resoldered or the emblems may need new tubes. Look at prong on an article of clothing will bend the prongs and loosen the enamel to see if it is chipped or cracked. Eastern Star the stones. They are a constant source of trouble both for the rings with stones in the star points should be carefully checked. customer and jeweler. It's best to advise that there is no guarantee against the loss of stones, even if they are replaced. (continued on page 12)

10 Horologi.cal Times/February 1979 Expand your diamond knowledge ... make diamond ' presentations with professional skill and confidence. NEW• Your increased knowledge of diamonds helps you become a "UaSt recognized professional. It lets you buy and sell stones with c~ ' confidence and gives you a competitive edge that increases • your sales and profits. COIDpre ensive The DIAMOND COU~SE t~aches you how to h buy, sell, grade and apprmse d1amonds. You learn aiDOD how to evaluate and demonstrate clarity, color, cut and finish. di d And how these key factors affect diamond value. ra ng LEARN NEW DIAMOND GRADING SYSTEM g di Your Diamond Course features major improvements in diamond grading procedures and techniques. Assignments

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t ~ - ~ ~= --= ~- _J G:IA Gemological Institute of America Nonprofit educational headquarters of the Jewelry Industry. 1660 Stewart Street, P.O. Box 2110 Dept. HT-2 9 Santa Monica, CA. 90406 Please send my free GIA home study catalog ... plus a free plastic diamond weight estimator.

Name 1 I I Address 1 I City State __ Zip ___ : L------J February 1979/Horological Times 11 THE ROCK QUARRY (continued from page 10) If it can be made ... we can Pendant loops are another problem. The chain acts make it. If it can be re­ like a saw blade and in time it will cut through a loop. The paired ... we can repair rough surface could cause the chain to get caught and the it. If it can be sized, pendant will end up on the side of the neck instead of in the altered or improved front. in any way, our workmanship will Make sure all stoneS' are tight. Anytime there is a guarantee you sat­ loose stone bouncing around in a setting, it can cause a lot of WE isfied customers. damage to the prongs and the seat. It's like the dry pivots on a watch rubbing against the jewels. The metal pivots will be We are experts in cut or worn off. A diamond or any hard stone will cut or wear design, investing, away the metal because it is a much harder material. Eventual­ DOlT casting, finishing, ly, the stone will cut through the prongs or will wear away the and diamond set­ seat of the setting to such a degree, the whole setting may have ting. to be replaced. The condition of the stones is the most important ALL We are YOUR shop thing to check on any piece of jewelry. Take special notice ... to do your stone of any chips, cracks, abrasions, blemishes or inclusions. Nine­ setting, remounts, re­ ty-nine percent of all customers think they own what they pairs, sizing, engraving call a "perfect" stone. I'd like to have a dollar for each time and special order work ... I've been told this by a customer. Stones of this quality are with our pledge of fine few and far between. In fact, whenever a stones looks that fine, we'll check it to make sure of its identity. Make a note of workmanship, quick ser­ anything you find wrong with the stones, tell the customer vice and fair prices! and write it on their receipt. If you overlook something and find it after they leave the store, call them before you do anything to the article. Otherwise, they can say it was dam­ e NELSON & NELSON, In(. man:fc~::~~!!.:;'en@ aged while you were working on it and you'll be liable. Don't e SUITE 610 PLYMOUTH BLDG . 6TH & HENNEPIN AVE. MINNEAPOLIS. MN 55402 @ kid yourself, this happens, and if you get caught in a situation like this, it may end up costing you more than you make in a month. This is why it is so important that you have a complete understanding with the customer as to the condition of his jewelry before you accept it for repair. L.A. CLARK In some cases the stone or stones may have to be removed before any repair work is done. This could necessitate the replacing of prongs that may break or a stone that may be damaged. The stones may already be fractured or have a DELIVERS: cleavage and the only reason they stay together is because of the settings. When removed, they could fall apart. It's rather difficult trying to piece a stone together so it can be reset! It GENUINE AND BESTFIT MATERIAL also chokes you up when you have to replace a stone that was EQUIPMENT· TOOLS ·SUPPLIES already broken, especially when you have to pay for it. FINDINGS ·SUNDRIES On the repair ticket describe the article as completely TO as possible to protect yourself. In case of a mix-up in the shop , a minimum amount of time will be lost finding the correct RETAIL JEWELERS piece. It's very embarrassing handing the customer the wrong piece of jewelry! WATCH & CLOCKMAKERS In the case of stones, unless you are absolutely sure MANUFACTURING JEWELERS what kind of stone it is, write on the ticket "red stone," "blue stone," green stone" or whatever. Or say, "customer says the stone is a ruby, sapphire, emerald." This will protect you as long as you don't call it by name, only by color. If you do the same day! call it a ruby, or whatever, and it's damaged in the course of repair, you may have to replace it with a genuine ruby, even it write for information it was a piece of glass, because that is what you said it was. Never take the customer's word for the kind of stone it is. L.A. CLARK COMPANY Most times they don't know themselves. 1417 FOURTH AVENUE, SEATTLE, WA 88101

601 PEYTON BLDG., SPOKANE, WA ~201 These are just a few of the more common problems SINCE 1926 that you'll run into most every day and will cover about eighty percent of the jewelry repair jobs. As far as the other,

12 Horological Times/February 1979 more specialized tasks, if you don't know how to handle them, ask someone who does or refer them to another shop. Don't try to be an expert about everything. Admit it if you don't know something. In all these years, I've yet to meet anyone who knew all there is to know about this business. It's better t?we.rt ,. to say you don't know than it is to botch up a repair on a piece of jewelry that belongs to someone else. electroplating Always treat the customer's jewelry with respect. You may think the piece is a real dog, but to him it is some­ -c:JCD thing special. I remember a woman telling me that a clerk in D) C) another store told her the ring she had was a piece of junk and wasn't worth repairing. It so happened that her husband, who no was recently deceased, gave it to her for their anniversary. She ~::J may or may have not known its value, but regardless, to her it was worth a lot more than its monetary value. There are many 1»0 people who can't afford the finer jewelry. There's no excuse to be callous with any customer and cause hard feelings because If you are just getting started in cc3 of your own personal opinion. If you don't want to do the electroplating the SWEST Economy Electroplating Package provides you CD'< job, just politely recommend it not be repaired and explain with everything you need for a com­ you don't think you could do a good job with it. plete plating operation including step-by-step il­ lustrated directions all at a very compact price. Find Finally, when a customer comes in to pick up a repair out how simple it is to do your own plating. job, be sure tell him to bring it in every so often so you can We offer in addition to our Economy Package a com­ check to make sure it is okay. Each time they return for prehensive line of anodes, solutions, machines, steam this service, it could mean an additional sale for you! 0 cleaners, ultrasonic cleaners, hot plates and everything for perfect plating. Write or call for our free brochure on electroplating.

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February 1979/Horological Times 13 ' .

. . Questions and Answers

by Henry B. Fried CMW CMC FBHI

George Daniels

Q. I have heard of a man in England who makes watches Gennan Chime Clocks entirely by himself. I believe the name was Daniels. I would Q. Could you please supply me with any information on a like to know more about Mr. Daniels and his watches, and also grandfather clock movement with Westminster chime? The how to obtain technical information on his watches. clock is made by the K. Jemple chime clock company, of Germany. I would appreciate any information on setting up Dwight McCartney the strike after rebusting, cost, etc. If you have any informa­ Enumclaw, Washington tion on Westminster chime clocks made by Seth Thomas, please send it also. Thank you for your time and prompt reply. A . George Daniels has been making watches In the Breguet style for the past years. These are very expensive and he no Ceylon R. Leitzel longer sells them, keeping them for his own. His book, The Millersburg, Pennsylvania Art of Breguet should tell you much of his work and his skills which indeed are considerable, to say the least. . Articles on Daniels have appeared in the Jewelers A. To my knowledge, no literature is available on setting up Circular, The British Horological Journal and many other the strike and chiming mechanism of your K. Jemple grand­ publications. One of the watches that Mr. Daniels made is father clock made in West Germany. But let's see if we can now owned by Mr. Seth Atwood, curator-owner of the Rock­ help with a brief run-down on the basic principles involved in ford Clock and Watch Museum at Rockford, fllinois. most chime clocks of German origin. In the long .run, I be­ lieve you will find this approach better than trying to mem­ orize the small but multiple variations adopted by the dif ferent manufacturers in order to get around each other's patents. The striking in these clocks is controlled by the usual rack and snail device, while the chiming is gcverned by a locking plate with four notches in its rim for the four quarter Wheel Cutt.ers hours, similar to an ordinary striking count wheel which is notched for the twelve hours. The locking plate is set-screwed Q. I have recently purchased a wheel cutting engine. I would to the upper pivot of the third wheel, which extends through like the names of suppliers where I can purchase ready-made the front plate. The lower pivot of the thzrd wh.eel extends wheel cutters for clock gears and pinions. through the back plate, and to that is set-screwed a driving wheel that transmits power to the chiming pin barrel. Ben Bowen Although the term locking plate is applied to the Monticello, Florida round disk with the four notches we have just described, the plate is really a counting device to detennine which quarter A. For wheel cutters write to Smith's Industries Ltd. (Hobbs will be chimed. Th e chime train is actually locked by the & Cutters Unit), Princess Elizabeth Way, Cheltenham, Glos fourth wheel. Sometimes the locking is accomplished be­ GL51 9LE, England. The cutters they sell are the Berners tween plates by a pin in the wheel striking an intercepting Epicycloidal tooth form. Also try these businesses, listed lever. But more often in the newer clocks tl?.e upper pivot in the AWl Sources book: William A . Phelps, 4106~ Glenway of the fourth wheel extends through the front plate, to which Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio 45206 or Fabrique De Praises, A . is set-screwed a locking cam fitted with a pin that is inter­ Musitelli, Fleurier, Switzerland. Involute cutters may be had cepted by the locking lever. The warning pin is between plates from the Boston Gear Works, 151 Lafayette St., New York, and fitted to the fifth wheel. New York (they at one time did market gear cutters). (continued on page 47)

Have a question? Get an answer by sending it to Henry B. Fried, Questions and Answers Department, Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Please enclose a self-addressed stamped envelope.

14 Horological Times/February 19 79 Get a 0/o Waterproof seal everytime

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February 1979/Horological Times 15 THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER© 1979

by Marvin E. Whitney CMCCMW TESTING AND ADJUSTMENTS . A chronometer which has been properly cleaned, lubricated, • without mechanical defect and with satisfactory balance mo­ Bringing the chronometer to time is done in the same tion will not satisfy the navigator or ship's captain if it is not manner as is done with a watch. Chronometer balances are running to time. The adjustment often requires a number of fitted with two large meantime screws or timing weights. When tests and retouches before a satisfactory performance is the chronometer is brought to time with these large timing achieved. weights, it is very difficult to turn the screws a very small Adjusting a chronometer does not stop when the amount for fine timing. So some instruments are provided instrument is brought to time. Adjusting also involves a de­ termination of the isochronism and temperature compensation. Isochronism is an important phenomenon, for after a period of time the oil tends to thicken, so that the amplitude of the balance is reduced. If the isochronism is poor to begin with, the rate will change considerably after a few months. Although the effect of temperature has been greatly reduced by the appearance of the self-compensating balance, many chronometers are fitted with the split bimetallic balance. Thus, to be able to determine the thermal coefficient or com­ pensation error, an oven and cold box are necessary. Regulation comprises two areas: timing and rating. Timing is bringing the chronometer to time after it has been repaired. Rating is the observation and comparison of the variation of the daily rates after being adjusted to tempera­ tures. The daily rate of a chronometer is determined by the amount of time it gains or loses in 24 hours. A perfect rate is one in which the gain or loss is exactly the same each 24 hours. A good rate is one in which the gain or loss is nearly the same every day. A poor and unacceptable rate is one in which the gain or loss varies from day to day, such as gaining one day and losing the next. Although a small daily error is preferable, the navigator's greatest concern is that the daily variation is constant. After the chronometer has been repaired, it can be brought to time by placing it on a watch timing machine. Since the chronometer beats 14,400 vibrations (4 beats per second), it will read or print out the same pattern as that of a 14,400 beat watch. If the chronometer has a zero rate, it will 14,400 beat print four lines of dots straight up the tape. Should the lines "0 ut of beat" pattern Zero rate pattern slope to the right, the rate is fast-if the slope is to the left, the rate is slow. If the escapement is slightly out of beat, the Figure 1. lines will be "paired off." See Figure 1.

16 Horological Times/February 19 79 with an additional pair of vernier screws which aid in achieving SELL. .. a much closer timing adjustment. One complete turn, in or out on opposite pairs of these screws, and sometimes con­ *FAST SERVICE FOR A PROFIT siderably less, is all that is required to bring the chronom­ *QUALITY WORK eter to time. It is not only necessary that these screws be DENVER DIAL turned in opposite pairs, but also that they are turned an equal Div. United Tool Material Co. amount. 307 University Building Denver, Colorado 80202 If a timing machine is not available, the daily rate can be determined by checking the dial reading of the chronom­ eter against the WWV time signal. Thus, it is quite easy to determine the dial error, the difference between exact time Do You Know and that indicated by the chronometer. Since the chronometer WATCH/JEWELRY REPAIR AND STONE SETTING second hand advances in one-half second increments, the dial Tuition: $30.00 per month error is best recorded to the nearest one-half second. Fully Accredited - Individual Instruction Determining the rate (that is the gaining or losing 28 Years of Service to Industry rate) of the chronometer is done by calculating the difference KILGORE COLLEGE of the dial error between successive readings. It is customary 1100 Broadway, Kilgore, Tex. 75662 - Ph. 214-984-8531 to regard gaining instruments having a plus (+) rate, and losing instruments having a minus (-) rate. In some of the National Testing Laboratories the opposite practice is gen­ erally followed , i.e., a gaining instrument is regarded as having a minus (-) rate, and a losing instrument as having a plus ( +) KEYSTONE MAINSPRING LUBRICANt rate. light-medium-heavy (Medium most popular) If the readings are taken at the same time each day, 8 oz. bottles $5.00 each postpaid within a few minutes of each other, no correction is necessary. CLOCK PIVOT OIL (CPO) 2 oz. bottles $5.00 each postpaid Furthermore, if the readings are made at the same point on the Any combination of 3 for only $13.00 dial each day, the effect of any graduations error in the dial KEYSTONE SALES, L TO. or eccentricity of the second hand is negligible. 7250 TELLER ST. ARVADA, CO 80003 Even when the rates are recorded daily, it is generally necessary to average the rates for the period to arrive at the mean daily rate of the chronometer, because of the fractional errors occurring which are not discernible when reading to only the nearest half second. See Figures 2A and B. Under "remarks" notations are made of any unusual circumstances, Need high temperatures in tiny places? such as forgetting to wind it, change of temperature, stopping The amazing Little Torch is so tiny hydrogen. pro~ne. natural gas or and resetting, etc., which could be used in identifying the It can throw a tlame of 6300'F. Mapp. lt"s avallable with five tips causes of any fluctuations in rate. through the eye of a needle. II sol- renging In si ze from one large ders. brazes. welds and heats with enough to weld 16 ga. steel to one In addition to the mean daily rate, two other regula­ exacti ng precision in the smallest small enough to weld .002" coppe r tion factors have to be considered. They are the mean devia­ places: uses oxygen and acetylene, wire. For free brochu re write to: tion of rates for all periods and the largest difference between any two daily rates in the same period. These two factors are important in determining how well a chronometer performs. A steady rating chronometer, which is most desirable, will show a low figure for mean deviation of rate and for the largest difference between two daily rates in the same period. After the instrument has been brought within the desired regulation tolerances, its temperature compensation performance is checked. Temperature compensation is deter­ mined by calculating the difference (algebraically) between the mean daily rate at one test temperature and the mean daily rate at another test temperature. In testing for temperature compensation, the chro­ nometer is run for several days at each of three temperatures, 55°F, 72~°F, and 90°F. The tests are conducted in tempera­ ture controlled cabinets in which the temperature is constantly maintained. At the Naval Observatory the temperature cab­ inets were so constructed that the maximum difference in 0 Please phone me with more information. 0 Please send free illustrated "Little Torch" Brochure. temperature between any two points in the test cabinets was o Please send free Findings Booklet. ±2°F. Each cabinet was provided with a temperature recorder, the measuring element of which was located in the air stream NAME passing across the instruments on test. ADDRESS ------The testing cabinets were placed in a room where the CITY ------STATE __ ZIP ______temperature was maintained at 72 ~ °F with no more than a ±2° temperature variation during any 24-hour period. The ESSLINGER & CO. DEPT HS humidity of the test room was maintained at 40% so the dew 333 SIBLEY ST. • P.O. BOX 43561. ST. PAUL. MN 55164

February 19 79/ Horological Times 17 TIMEPIECE WORK RECORD - U.S. NAVAL OBS ERVATORY OPftAV- 29-1 , 1

a ....__ -·9• //} , · Jt/ <1

OAILY RATE OtV I ATION REMARI"~ DATE. +ER~~R F ST • GA I N lN G IFR OM AVERAGC TEMPERA TURt I dej]YStPO<~ts I (UnY .• ~~I ,.~to~""'nc~ - SLOW - LOS lNG DA. ILY RATE '"ad•. dc , l //- /__.,, ..-a. .5-i> - -- ·7-£>

4 7'"9 LJll ·-1-.:S.t:JO "'· 2£> .<:"' +//. .-Ll +l" _.;;) " :>.o ~".J. !-:I .I"~ ,1-M. ' "', ..... , ...... ,P;,.~q~-1------

/ / +4 DIJ . ., -5.·-""' I I lr./.3.0D l'l .:~:~: I!1 /o ••1 .11., i" ~ . t:l!l.!!l ,}111111 111 · ~ =~ '"

19 ,._/-1·. s·' - - I ~-..- ";: ~ .r '"' 00 r .. .=;o "of'C' I I ~I r .' 7 . oc ;-./,LJtJ lJ. /D ~ z r /H.OD r .oo 4· C> I Figure 2B..:. Nardin No. 5112 rate when it was ..?.3 -r ( Y~ LO .,.../, {)t) " 0 I first received by the Naval Observatory new. ~4 +.2D <) .... / . "" "· 0 ! Ill! Note the closeness of the two rates (new vs r-.,:!)·~ -c:; 0 liD I ~ overhaul). The Observatory instruments were AVERAGE r' (. / IJ o. /6 I I only tested at three temperatures (900F, 72J':!OF, 550F) while the new Nardin was Figure 2A. Repaired Nardin No . 5112-rate after it was tested at four-320C=90.60F, 180C=64.40F, returned from service and overhaul. 11 OC=51.80F, and 40C=390F point was at all times below the lowest specified test tempera­ and -adjusted and that the cross circulation of the air in the ture, 55 ° F. This insured that when the instruments were re­ cabinets caused the instruments to respond rapidly to any moved from the lowest temperature test cabinet into the room temperature change. A test conducted without a settling down for winding and observation, they we re not subjected to con­ period seems more practical, anyway, for no such settling densation of moisture in the atmosphere. period can be tolerated under service conditions, where tem­ Although this is the ideal arrangement and most perature aboard ship will possibly vary continuously. repairmen would not have such equipment and facilities, it On foreign chronometers, the temperature compensa­ still should not deter one from testing a repaired instrument's tion is accomplished by moving two weights on the rim of the temperature compensation qualities. For example, a refrigera­ balance, the weights being held in place by small screws which tor can be used for the cold test, since it can be set at 55°F, bear against the inside surface of the rim. while a thermostatically controlled oven cabinet can be con­ Changes in temperature affect the timekeeping quali­ structed without too much effort and both will do a com­ ties of a chronometer in many different ways. These qualities mendable job. are no different from those that affected the old split balance After each temperature change, the chronometer is formerly used in watches. allowed to settle down for a period of 24hours to permit the When a chronometer is to be adjusted for tempera­ instrument to adjust itself to the new temperature. Although ture, it is run for several days in each of the aforementioned thjs was the practice followed at the Naval Observatory in a temperatures and its rate compared with a time standard. If number of tests conducted on what the Observatory classed as the chronometer loses in heat (90°F) and gains in cold (55°F), high grade instruments (Hamiltons, Mercers, and Nard.ins), the the weights are not carried far enough to produce the required settling down period was unnecessary, since the tests showed effect and it is said to be undercompensated. This is remedied rather conclusively that a high grade instrument would respond by moving the weights toward the free end of the rim. This immediately to a change in temperature. This was attributed will result in a greater compensating effect because in moving to the fact that these instruments were very well constructed the weights nearer to the ends of the rim, the weights must

18 Horological Times/Febrnary 1979 travel a greater distance in or out in relation "to the center of Hamiltol} fitted its chronometers with two sets of the balance when it is exposed to temperature changes. The timing weights. One full turn of the larger weight was eqwil to rate of the chronometer at the gooF temperature will then be approximately 40 seconds per day, while one full turn of the increased (fast) because the free ends of the rim toward vernier weights equalled about 2.8 seconds per day. which the weights have been moved will move toward the Hamilton in using the conventional type of balance center of the balance wheel and thereby reduce the wheel's screws was able to compute the effect various screw changes moment of inertia. would have on temperature compensation, and, thus, designed If the opposite occurs, the chronometer is said to be a table showing temperature compensation corrections re­ overcompensated and the weights must be moved toward the sulting from the movement of screws about the periphery of solid end of the rim. Hence, the motion of the rim inward and the balance wheel. The chart is very simple to use, once it is outward being the greatest at their free ends, and the further understood. See Table 1. back the weights are moved, the less the inward or outward The balance arm is made from invar, which has movement will be. So from the above we can see that at some negligible thermal expansion. The rim is stainless steel, having point between the two extremes, the rate will be the same in a relatively large expansion. The theory of the adjustable com­ the cold as in the hot temperature. pensation feature is, of course, that by grouping the balance After the weights have been moved, the chronometer screws closely about the ends of the arm, the chronometer can is tried again for the same length of time, and so on, until it be caused to rate faster at gooF than at 55°F. By grouping runs the same in both temperatures. the screws about the portion of the rim at right angles to the Even after the chronometer is compensated to keep arm, the chronometer can be caused to rate slower at gooF time at the two extreme temperatures, the rate will be dif­ than at 55°F. Hairsprings were chosen .which. would cause the ferent at the mean or 72~°F. This error is known as the error to fall within the range of adjustment of the balance "middle temperature error'·' and has given adjusters con­ wheel. siderable trouble for years. In most cases when the rate is the It seems obvious that if the screws were grouped same at the two extremes, it will be slower than the mean, that closely about the ends of the arm and the instrument rates is to say, the chronometer being regulated at the mean tem­ slower at gooF than at 55°F, no further adjustment is possible perature will lose as the temperature increases or decreases. except by selecting a different hairspring. If all hairsprings So, if the rate is made the same at the mean and one of the could be made exactly alike, there would be no.necessity for extremes, the other extreme will show a minus (-) rate. an adjustable compensation balance, since this balance is not At the Naval Observatory the instruments with split intended to compensate for an error in the spring, but to give bimetallic balance were rated as closely as possible at the two a small range of adjustment to take care of slight differences extremes which generally produced a gaining rate at the mean between hairsprings. This is considerably different from the temperature from two to four seconds per day. purpose of the usual bimetallic balance wheel. As we know, one of the greatest achievements in the Since no two balances are necessarily provided with horological field was Hamilton's chronometer balance and the same screws in the same positions, it is not possible to hairspring assembly. The design of this assembly achieved a make a simple chart showing what can be done to correct a stability of rate with very minimal isochronal and temperature compensation error of, say, two seconds per day faster rate at compensation errors that were previously thought to be not gooF, than at 55°F. In order to make a correction, it is neces­ obtainable. sary to observe which screws can be conveniently moved in the The balance is probably one of the most novel fea­ desired direction about the rim and choose a move which will tures of the Hamilton chronometer. Where most balances reduce the observed error to nearly zero. As an example of the before employed the split bimetallic balance, Hamilton used way in which this system is used, the following examples are a solid, uncut type of wheel which was fitted with the con­ cited. Figure 3 shows the position of the numbered balance ventional type of balance screws that were moved either screw holes. · toward or away from the spoke of the wheel when making Chronometer #24, when tested at gooF and 55°F, temperature adjustments. was found to rate-2.21 seconds per day at go°F, and +1.56 The stability of rate was amazing. No running-in seconds per day at 55°F, having what is usually referred to as period was necessary, nor was there a need for a settling down as a minus (-)error since it rates slower at gooF than at 55°F. period between tests at the different temperatures. When The chart states "+ corrections: The rate at gooF compared "uncorked" after shipment, it assumed its original rate within with that at 55°F is faster after the screw change than before." a few hundredths of a second. Thus, a minus correction indicates the rate at g0° compared For the most part the temperature errors were well with that at 55° is slower than before the screws were moved. within a half a second and the middle temperature errors were nonexistent. On occasions, all chronometers on test would (continued on page 48) show a minute change in rate and all in the same direction. After a thorough analysis of this phenomenon, it was found that invariably it was associated with a decided change in barometric pressure.

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February 1979/Horological Times 19 comebacks, stoppers, or other problems (which no one ever has) with the just-finished work should get top priority over all other work. Because you have been paid for a job is no reason to let corrective measures slide along. The only ex­ ception I use is when there is too long a schedule of com­ plicated time consuming pieces such as reconversion from anchor to verge escapement, replacing missing pull repeat works, etc. It gives you a break to slip in a job that is less taxing, but again, that should be one near the top of the list of OTTO BENESH CMC pieces to be worked on. The schedule should be visible and can be a sheet of paper with the category headings and changed from one column to the next by adding and crossing out or it can be on a blackboard or a bulletin board. My own system is on five pieces of galvanized iron plate painted black (Figure 1). Old business cards were cut to make slips with the customer's name, date received, and in some cases, the item (or job number, if you use it). These slips are placed on the plates in chronological order and are held on by pieces cut from mag­ netic sheets. This makes it easy to move the slip from one category to the next. Such a system will give you a constant up-to-date inventory of all the work and the status thereof also is of assistance in scheduling pick-ups and deliveries and can reduce many separate trips.

''"l~t~ 1979 ~tittTTE~'' ©

(all rights reserved by the author)

WORK CONTROL i. Most of the shops I have visited both in the United States and l:ii!J . Europe are poorly organized to handle, among other things, , ;.., fill . . ~- _... the paperwork part of managing the business, be it repair or •. restoration. This comment does not refer to the bookkeeping/ accounting portion of the business. One of the questions I usually ask is, "How do you determine how much to charge for your work?" The answers (or many times, just blank stares) are enough to make you Figure 1. wonder how they remain in business. Let us take a look at some of the items that are within the scope of what is usually Another of my rules is that pendulum controlled called paperwork management and some of the economics of clocks must be delivered and checked out at their operating the shop. They, of necessity, will be from my personal view­ location. This eliminates calls that merely require adjustment point and are not to be considered as a panacea for all the ills for beat. Again, there are exceptions, such as when your of watch and clockmakers. My viewpoint is slanted toward customer is a collector with the knowledge of how to set a restorations, but it can be applied to repair work and be just clock in beat. But, generally, this policy saves many a head­ as useful. ache. The first item that is needed is a system that enables Any system you adopt must be tempered with com­ you to control the work that is passing through the shop. It mon sense and there is no use in setting up a method that can be divided into five basic categories: takes more time to operate than it does to do the work. If 1. Work to be picked up the work can be accomplished in less than, say a week, the 2. Work in shop (to be worked on) most that would be needed is an inventory so that you can 3. Work in progress control "first in first out" and if this visible, it helps keep 4. Finished work you on the track. Most industries have visible production 5. Work for delivery or customer pick-up boards that are based on similar breakdowns but usually much Work brought into the shop by the customer im­ more detailed. mediately falls into category 2 and the other groups are self­ While this will help in controlling the work, it will not explanatory. With the initiation of some system such as this, help when the customer has a clock that has not been running one general rule is adopted and that is from the old adage, for years, and says she is not in a rush, but would like to have "First in first out." This should be the goal and any deviations it as she is having a party on Friday. from it should be as few as possible. Of course, any of the The next thing that is necessary is to know your 20 Horological Times/February 1979 shop hourly rate, and while there is much written on the sub­ ject, there is little evidence that it is much used. Yet this is the very heart of a successful operation and can literally make or break you, and many people have no idea of what it costs to keep a shop running for an hour. While this is important for shops doing large volumes of business, it is just as important for the one-man shop. While, as we said, much has been written on the subject, let us review it once more and deter­ Wholesale Jewelers - Jewelers' Supplies mine what is needed so that you can determine your rate and thereby set your prices correctly all the while, keeping it as 2030 WEEMS ROAD- P. 0. BOX 445 simple as possible. It should not take anyone more than a TUCKER, GEORG lA 30084 couple of hours to do the job. ,. • h Georgia- 1-800-282-9220 Let us begin and take a look at what we should do. 'Jc 1ep one The fust thing is to make a list of all the things that go to Out of state - 1-800-241-9081 making up our fiXed expenses- those items that cost money whether we do any work or not. They are such things as QualitY- Crystal Fitting rent salaries of workmen (including your own rate of pay), utilities, advertising, bookkeepers, accountants, equipment We give prompt fitting service for (usually based on the yearly depreciation from tax returns) regular stock crystals; specials re­ other tools books, magazines, membersltip in horological quire more time. You will find our organizations. Every item should be listed and the cost thereof set down. It can be done on a yearly or monthly basis or even prices are competitive for the per­ a combination of the two. When all these costs have been formance we give. gathered, then you should decide how much profit you wish to make on your investment. All jobs are returned by UPS, unless registered Consider that in the bank on a six-month certificate of $10,000 value you can get 8% or more return and this mail is requested. requires no work on your part. So you will determine if you For your convenience we can supply FREE want 10%, 20%, 30% or whatever you would like, but remem­ mailing cartons. ber there are limitations and you cannot be too far from the general trend of prices in your area. What happens in Maine, CHECK HERE FOR YOUR SUPPLY 0 Michigan or California is only of general interest to you unless you happen to live in one of those areas. If you cannot earn your hourly shop rate, you should get out and go into some­ thing else. There is no sense in earning, say $7.50 an hour in your own place, if you can go to work in another shop or line of business and earn $10.00 an hour, unless your love of It's about tiiDe ... horology is so great that you willing to work for substandard wages. When you have all the costs collected, do not skip The Digital ~ small items. Remember that anything skipped is eating into your profit. Add up the number of hours worked by you and Electronic your staff and by this is meant direct salaried labor. Do not add hours for outside workers, such as accountants, lawyers, or those who do work on a piece basis or contract as it were. Watch Divide the total dollars of cost by the number of hours worked Thm M. Hyltin and you will have your hourly shop rate. This is what you will Formerly of Texas Instruments have to charge a customer for each hour spent on a job. An acquaintance of mine worked a normal 40 hours U 4 pp .. ill us, 6 X 9, $!9 95 at his shop and worked 2 to 4 hours at home in the evening as well as time on Saturday and Sunday, but he did not add these It's about time someone wrote a complete, non­ hours to his total and when he finally did, his hourly rate technical guide to help you keep up with the digital dropped significantly as well as his return on his investment. watch revolution. Here, in this one book, you'll find all Be honest with yourself, you will be the winner and not the you need to know about how they work, how they're loser. By now you must have guessed how easy it is to designed, and how to repair them. You really can't afford adjust this once it has been established. You can add the rate to he without this handbook, written by one of the of inflation or cost of living increases as a percentage directly original developers of electronic watches. to your hourly rate and thereby always be current. I would Horological Time8 suggest that you make this increase no more often semi­ P.O . Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 annually. res, please rush me '~The Digital Electronic Watch.'' I am enclosing $2 I .4 !i (cost $19 .9 5 plus $I .50 for postage) U.S. funds only. Please Having established our hourly rate, let us put it to allow approximately 4 weeks for delivery. Price subject to change. use. If the rate is, say $50.00 an hour, and it takes three hours Name ------to complete a job, the charge is $150.00 plus any material Address ------___ ZIP _____ used. Material used-this is another area that can stand a bit City ------State of discussion. The usual method seems to be double the cost DPpt. BK-1

Febrn.ary 1979/Horological Times 21 of material. This is not a good system for either you or the estimate as to the cost of making calendar ring (internal teeth), customer. Small cost items cannot recover their cost, and the 24-hour wheel, its stud, the ring rollers and roller screws. expensive items are far in excess of the cost in obtaining them. As your library of job times grows so does your ability to figure costs. I should point out that the majority of my work What do you think 'it costs you to call or write a material is on a time basis; the customer gets a ballpark estimate, house and order, say a staff for a Font 60? If you double the upon request, and if anything develops that will make a major cost you will be losing money. So you should establish a min­ change in the estimate, the cust omer is contacted before pro­ imum cost for your time to call, order, receive and pay for the ceeding. In some cases, the cost is under the estimate and there item. Whether it is $2.00 or $5.00 will be determined by your is nothing nicer than a customer whose bill is less than antici­ hourly rate. Conversely, suppose you send a grandfather pated. clock dial for refinishing and the bill is $1 00-should you arbitrarily charge $200? It would better to set a sliding scale of a minimum charge and then from $26 to $50 double the minimum charge and from $51 to $75 triple it and all over this four times the minimum, plus, of course, handling and postal charges. Now back to putting the hourly rate to actual use. In my shop I have found the easiest way to keep track of time on a job is by use of what are known as "Rally Timers." They come in two models as illustrated in Figure 2.

Figure 3.

I will close this article with a few hints that have been useful to me. 1. Tag all pieces that are separated, e.g., the case, the pendulum, the movement. Not only does this help you in avoiding lost time in matching up the parts, should any­ thing happen to you, but it will be of great assistance in Figure 2. getting the right pieces to the owners. 2. Plastic dish pans, which are inexpensive, make You will note that the one is divided into 60 seconds to the excellent receptacles for movements, enabling you to keep minute, while the other is divided decimally 100 seconds to everything together, assembled or disassembled. The job the minute. Either model is good. They both accumulate time worksheet will also fit in the pan. by minutes and up to 12 hours and can be stopped and started 3. A rack for hanging tagged pendulums can be put without disturbing the already accumulated time. They are up using nails in a board. A loop of cord will hold the pen­ relatively inexpensive and an extremely useful piece of equip­ dulums. Have you ever looked at half a dozen pendulums and ment for a shop doing other than run-of-the-mill type work. wonder which one goes with which movement? This can be done also by noting time on a piece of paper 4. Don't take the winding keys. That way you using your regular clock or watch, but you are less likely to never will lose one. forget to start and stop the timer than to keep track by other 5. When you bill your customer, whenever you can, means. Another advantage is that elements of a total job can look up the maker and give the history on the bill. It does be timed and the worksheets can be kept for future reference wonders for your reputation. as to how long an operation took, and then used as an estimate 6. Never let paperwork management get to the for a future similar operation. It can also be used a check that point where it is overwhelming-use common sense and keep you are working at optimum speed. Nothing in the above is it in control-use it-don't let it use you. D meant to eliminate having certain set prices for routine clean and overhaul jobs that you have checked out for time. It is perfectly all right to set a fiXed price for an American strap movement or a French clock with a "Paris" type movement. As the American movement can vary from zero to a dozen or more bushings, should it all cost the same? My method is to Call an advertiser include up to four bushings with the clean and overhaul and then charge for all bushings over that amount. This type of HE'S HELPING US of breakdown can be extended to other similar operations. Figure 3 shows examples of job sheets which are from actual work, but have been set in a darker medium for photographic HELP YOU. purposes. I wonder how many can give a reasonably close

22 Horological Times/Febrnary 1979 of the balance could be performed at the same time as the short ones. This could only happen if all of the energy of WATCH ADJUSTMENTS the hairspring were spent on motion of the balance without (continued from page 6) any of it being used on overcoming friction and other forces. The second point established was that this cannot be achieved because of losses of power on friction and other causes so that short amplitudes generally tum out to be faster amount of energy stored in the hairspring. If it is turned than the long ones. This point, I am sure, will be disputed by 180°, the amount of energy so stored will be exactly double. many watchmakers because everyone working at the bench This corresponds with Hooke's Law. Let's examine now what even for a relatively short time can cite hundreds of examples happens when the balance is released. If we mark a point on where watches after a thorough servicing and proper lubrica­ the balance, deflect the balance say for 90° and then release tion, turned out to do just the opposite. The long arcs of mo­ it, that point will travel close to 180°. During the first 90° of tion, in most cases, show a faster rate on the timing machine motion the balance will accelerate until it reaches the mid than the short ones. And to make matters perfectly con­ point, i.e, the line of centers. From that point on, it will begin fusing, those of you who think that way are just as right as slowing down (decelerating) until it stops on the other side. those who think that Hooke's Law works more or less the way If the watch was of standard beat (18,000 vib/second), the I have described it above. I could have stopped here and leave total motion will have been accomplished in 1/5 second. Let you wondering for another little while, or have you rush to the us now deflect the same balance for 180°. The point marked nearest library in search of a solution in various horological on the rim of the balance will now have to travel exactly twice books and magazines. Perhaps it is better if I attempt to the distance as before. If it is to travel twice the distance in explain the problems a little further and save you some of that 1/5 second, the balance must achieve twice the velocity it had precious time of which we always seem to be in short supply. in the first instance. In order to do so, the force that propels it (the energy stored in the hairspring) must be doubled. Which way a watch behaves depends on several Hooke's Law tells us that it does, and therefore we should factors. I have mentioned the quality of the watch as one have no problems. More precisely, we would not have any reason, but under certain conditions even the highest quality problems if all of the energy of the hairspring were used on the watch, in good mechanical condition could show short ampli­ undisturbed motion of the balance, i.e., if there were no other tudes to be faster than long, or to be slower than long. Which forces to oppose the force of the hairspring. But we know that of the two it will be will depend on how much the watch is some of the energy of the balance is spent on overcoming the wound, i.e., how large is the amplitude of the balance wheel. forces opposing the balance motion as stated above. Because A comparable watch of lesser quality, or in poorer state of of that, the net energy to propel the balance twice the distance repair could probably perform the same, but the reversing in the same 1/5 second is not exactly double as it should be, but point would be at a much higher amplitude. Watches of poor somewhat smaller. How much smaller than necessary it will be quality almost always show long amplitudes faster than short, will depend basically on how well the watch was made, and and to explain why this happens in both situations, we must closely related to it, how well it was serviced by the watch­ look to the hairsprings for solutions. The hairspring does not maker. always and under all conditions perform the same way. It is This problem is, however, much more complex than possible to manipulate it in such a way that the energy neces­ the simplistic example I have used to explain it. Let me sary to propel the balance is either slightly larger or slightly try and elaborate on it a little, hoping to enlighten some smaller than needed to make short and long arcs of equal practicing watchmakers who do understand a substantial duration. This difference in energy, however, is limited, so portion of the problem, and not to confuse too much those that only watches of good quality, i.e., those which require a who did not give the subject too much thought. In the latter very small amount of kinetic energy of the balance to be spent case I am mainly thinking of the great number of students in on friction, can be adjusted. Closely related to this is another horological schools who might take an interest in reading this limitation, namely that the minimum amplitude of the balance article and use the information as the basis for further studies must be in most situations greater than 360° in order to be as well as for practical application of the information to their able to achieve the practical adjustments necessary for proper everyday bench practices. operation of most watches. Fortunately these adjustments I have thus far tried to establish two main facts are possible with overcoil (Breguet) hairsprings as well as with about watch performance: first, that under ideal conditions flat hairsprings, although not with as much precision with the watch should behave according to Hooke's Law of springs. the latter. If it did so, most of the problems of watch adjustments would I mentioned earlier that the ability of a watch to be not exist because all fluctuations of the amplitude of the adjusted depends to a large extent on the ratio between balance wheel would be perfectly compensated by an im­ kinetic energy created by the balance, and the amount of mediate reaction of the hairspring. Under those ideal con­ that energy spent on overcoming various frictions and other ditions the operation of the watch would look something disruptions. This point will be further explained in de•aiJ like this. When the watch is slightly wound, the mainspring later because it has been responsible for considerable changes would be bent through a smaller angle than when fully wound. in designs of watches in the last 20 years or so. Those of you It would deliver a certain small amount of power to the whose interest may have been aroused about the multiple escapement, which would cause a small amplitude of the problems and factors entering into watcb adjustments will balance wheel. If it were wound a little more, or even fully, just have to bear with me until my rumblings on the subject the mainspring power would be greater, resulting in greater bring all the facts into proper perspective and a better under­ impulse, and consequently greater amplitude of the balance standing. D wheel. But increasing the amplitude of the balance wheel also correspondingly increases the force of the hairspring because it bends it through a greater angle, so that larger amplitudes

February 1979/Horological Times 23 Essence of Clock Repair by Sean C. "Pat" Monk CMW

Part XXXXIII

THE ENGLISH 30-HOUR LONG-CASE (circa 1850)

This clock was originally a rope-operated mechanism. Perhaps the main purpose in dealing with this clock is that its like OOPS!! WE GOOFED!! is met not infrequently by clock repairmen who do not know what to do about the replacement of the original "rope." No linen, flax, hemp, nylon, or other substitute seems to On page 25 of the December 1978 issue, we neglected be obtainable to replace effectively the original driving rope. to print the accompanying legend to Figure 3 in This clock, whose movement is shown in the accom­ Sean C. (Pat) Monk's article on the Ansonia Long­ panying figures, is of the English long-case, 30-hour, hour­ Dropped Octagon Hour Strike. Our sincere apologies strike variety. As mentioned, the clock was also of the rope­ to Mr. Monk and our readers. operated variety, but we converted it to a ladder-chain drive for the reason mentioned. The single ladder chain (originally rope) is wound over two main wheels (time, or "going" and strike) and is one continuous loop supporting a pulley with a single iron weight attached to it to supply the driving power to both time and strike trains. Inasmuch as the chain supplies motive power to both the going and strike trains via the weight, only one main­ taining ratchet is employed. This ratchet is on the strike side (right hand side of Figure 1, looking at the front plate).

Figure 3 .

(a) fan (f) hammer wheel (b) warning wheel (g) main wheel (c) locking hook (h) crutch (d) warning hook (i) count hook (e) count wheel Figure 1.

24 Horological Times/Febrnary 1979 Count t" """~i4o-hook (h) I. WI Of~~ & ~~N~ 607 S. HILL ST.· SUITE 820 LOS ANGELES, CALIF. 90014 (213) 626-1471 unt wheel (j) Memo to rated jewelers. Friction pla[e

I Count wheel drive pinion (I)

Pillar plate-..-llill'-"! [::J ~~!!~~~'!;~ollege

Pillar post ------COURSES OFFERED IN: • Watch Repair • Jewelry Repair • Clock Repair • Diamond Setting • Clock Making • Photo-Chemical Milling • Jewelry Engraving Figure 2. Components working off common steel arbor (f) For more information, write: William 0. Smith Jr.. Director of Horology Parkland College 2400 West Bradley Champaign, Illinois 61820 We have a name of J. Nash of Chilton(?) on the dial. Nothing in G.H. Bailie's Watchmakers and Clockmakers of the World commits this name to any specific clockmaker. However, the dial is classically English, done in fine oils, The look that impresses! the corner pieces depicting four summer pastoral scenes, very peaceful looking. The entire dial does indeed set the clock in a peaceful mood. A curiosity about the dial is that while it l~tii!~3;wJ;Ii DELUXE FINGER and certainly is the original (everything lines up, dial feet, etc), it is holed for both going and strike. Moreover, two false wind RING GAUGES in MATCHED SET

A luxurious set to suit the profes· sional image, in simulated leather case with plush interior. Close tolerances assure extreme accuracy of fit. SET CONTAINS: Individual gold finished ring gauges from 1 to 15 by half sizes to U.S. Standard. Also in­ cludes ring stick grooved to handle regular and stone set rings. Graduated from 1 to 15 by quarter sizes to U.S. Standard . .. No. 24-530-Shipping Wt. 1 lb. 4 oz. $26.25

5 S WABASH AVE & CHICAGO ILL 60603 Figure 3. C• DVORKIN CO. 312/726-8678

Febrnary 1979/Horological Times 25 Figure 4. Figure 5.

arbors are set on the front clock plate and these two wind in Figure 2. The freeing of this gate from the arrest pin on arbors line up with the two dial holes. The clock, of course, the warning wheel (next to the fan , or fly) allows the warning is wound by pulling up the weight by means of the chain wheel to turn during the warning period. A similar sequence (originally rope). The exact reason for the clock being supplied has been previously described in our past articles. At the with two false wind arbors and the dial drilled accordingly is end of the warning, the brass pin on the warning wheel will open to conjecture. again come to rest against the gate. Chain link replacement of the original rope, the In Figure 2, at the same time as the minute wheel latter being either severely frayed or missing, seems to be the pin e lifts the tail b and the warning occurs, two other levers only effective medium. However, the chain must be care­ on the common steel arbor f running between the two clock fully and correctly gauged. The chain link we found to be pillar plates, are tilted and begin to come into effect. These effective on our old clock is one of brass content measuring two levers are the locking lever g and the count hook h. The %" between link centers. This particular chain effectively locking lever has a hook cut at its extremity. We have tried spans the sprockets of both the going and strike main wheels. to show this in the sketch, where one will see it engaged in This measurement, of course, may vary with other 30-hour a recessed slot in the second strike wheel. As the common long-case varieties and the ladder chain gearing should be steel arbor f is tilted, this locking lever is freed from the measured for individual clocks. Ladder chain measurements recessed slot. We should mention that this recessed slot is should be checked and new chains fitted to concur so that the actually cut into a brass rim behind the second strike wheel chains will roll over the main wheel sprockets without slippage. itself and we have depicted this in the sketch. Now, when the As mentioned, when the single iron weight is wound locking lever becomes detached from the recessed slot by the up by pulling the chain, the action provides motive power to tilting of the common steel arbor, the second strike wheel is both the going and strike trains. We must emphasize this. free to turn, allowing the strike train itself to turn. The second The strike operation commences from the main strike wheel being meshed with the hammer (pin) wheel c strike wheel (right hand side of Figure 1, looking at the dial). the latter comes into operation. The pins set around the inner The strike main wheel carries with it a drum with a series of perimeter of the hammer whect are now employed to kick sprockets evenly spaced around its perimeter. Incidentally, the hammer. However, there is a further operation and that a similar sprocketed main wheel is also used for the powering is the freeing of the count hook h. As mentioned, this is of the time train (left hand side of Figure 1 looking at the set on the common s eel arbor[, so that when it is turned, the dial). count hook set on the outside of the back clock plate, is now Figure 1 shows the clock with the front plate, por­ employed. At the extreme high point of the lifting of the tions of the strike mechanism, including the steel strike flirt minute wheel pin e which is, or shouJd be, exactly at the hour a, tail b, hammer wheel c and the hammer d itself. A single and, after the warning is completed, the count hook becomes steel pin e on the minute wheel can also be observed in the freed from the count wheel j. The turning of the count wheel figure. itself is effected via a driving gear k set irnmedjately behind the Just before the hour, the tail b is raised by the count wheel and permanently attached to it. This driving gear minute wheel pin e. The strike flirt a, being on the same axis is shown in both Figure 2 and Figure 3, where the eoun.t also begins to lift. The left end of the flirt passes through a wheel has been removed and reversed for clarification of slot in the fron t clock plate and is formed into a gate shown its gear. 26 Horological Times/February 1979 The count wheel driving gear is driven directly from the strike train main Quartz Movements wheel, via its driving pinion l shown in Figure 2. At Transistor Prices! After the count hook is freed from the count wheel and the latter is #450( allowed to rotate via the power supplied from the main strike wheel, the count hook continues to ride on the count wheel periphery until its hook drops into the next appropriate slot cut into the edge of the count wheel. Almost simul­ taneously, the mechanism is arranged so that the locking lever g again falls into the IN QUANTITY* deep slot behind the second strike wheel and the strike is arrested. The number of hours struck is dependent upon the distance between the slots cut into the count wheel. There are Our Lowest Price Ever twelve such slots; the shortest distance * For A Quality Quartz between them is for registering the hour of one; the longest such distance pre­ Crystal Movement. cedes the striking of twelve o'clock. As mentioned, the second strike wheel is meshed with the hammer wheel, * Extremely Accurate and as the hammer wheel rotates, its pins ( One Minute Per Year) (see Figure 1) kick the hammer to strike a metal gong at the top of the movement. In the photos, only the gong's supporting * Comes Complete With post is shown. The hammer itself is Hour-Min.-Sec. Hands. tensioned by a vertical steel tension spring. The count wheel (see Figure 4) Fully Warranted For is set in position on a separate brass * arbor attached permanently to the back One Year. plate. It is frictioned against the latter by 2 13/ 16" X 2 7 / 16" X 1 1 / 8" a triangularly shaped friction plate and is Replacing Clock Movements Has Become More locked against it with a brass locking pin. The tension between the count wheel and Than Just Another Customer Service .... It Is A Very its locking plate should only be such to Profitable Business ! Take Advantage Of The Low Prices prevent slippage. If too tight, it could That Our Volume Purchasing Affords You. Check Your cause stoppage of the clock. The friction Stock Now and Use The Order Form Below. plate can be adjusted for tension by slight bending...... Figure 3 shows the count wheel removed from the clock, showing its driving wheel or gear, on the reverse side. ~ Esslinger & Cb. The latter is driven by the count wheel .. .. P.O. BOX 43561 St. Paul, MN 55165 driving pinion, as mentioned, and shown TOLL FREE NO . 800/ 328-9366 IN MINNESOTA 800/ 392-0317

in photo and sketch. I~------· Figure 5 shows the detail of the CARTON OF 25 PRICED@ 56.50 Ea.- 1 OR 2@ $8,75 adapted ladder chain in its position on 3 TO 9@ 57.75- 10 TO 24@ 57.25 the sprockets of the strike main wheel Please Send Movements As listed Plus $1.00 For Delivery drum. The steel pendulum leader and __ # 450 Quartz Battery Movements @ ----­ crutch can be seen on the right, pen­ -- Check Here For Free Illustrated Clock Booklet dulum removed. Our mechanic, "Scotty" Jack NAME Dawson, performed the miracle of sub­ stitution of the nonreplaceable cord for COMPANY ------­ the ladder chain. The ladder in this case measures exactly 14'' between the link ADDRESS chain centers. The ladder coincides exact­ CITY STATE __ ZIP ___ ly with the distance between the sprocket centers. 0 MAIL TO ESSLINGER & CO. P.O. BOX 43561 ST. PAUL, MN- 55164 !..------.! Febmary 1979/Horological Times 27 ....__·-=-- -· - ·: .. 1~

We may not have said it lately ... But we still ...

Salute New Members!

tiElf ~()lJ~SElf ... J()lfl f1

28 Horological Times/February 1979 HANSON, Walter E.-Baltimore, MD HORNE, Dwight A.-Hyannis Port, MA HUNT, Frank E., Jr.-London, OH JACOBSEN, Donald--Minneapolis, MN JULIEN, Claire D.-Lancaster, PA ARNETT, Robert W.-Bath, NY KASPER, Kenneth A.-Saginaw, MI ARNHEIM, Craig S.-Palatine, IL KILPATRICK, Alfred-Jacksonville, FL BEYERS, Earl E.-Mobile, AL KINDIG, Robert W.-Newport Beach, CA SCHEIMAN, Irving H.-Brooklyn, NY BOERSCHINGER, Philip W.-Billings, MT KNIGHT, James-Perris, CA SCHOFIELD, C.A.-Montreal, Quebec BOSSE, Michael I.-Cincinnati, OH LANCASTER, William K.-Miami, FL SPIEWAK, Richard-Buffalo, NY BRAUNER, Lonnie-Killeen, TX LANSING, Robert-Oneonta, NY TAMUL, Joseph I.-Morehead City, NC BROWN, Arthur L.-Memphis, TN LAY, Kenneth R., h.-Cincinnati, OH THOMPSON, George R.-Newark, OH CARPENTER, Donald H.-Coventry, RI LEE, Dulen-Beale AFB, CA TITTLE, Earl-Jonesboro, TN CASEY, Eugene H.-Leesburg, FL LESTER, Gary-Quincy, IL TUROK, John-Anoka, MN CASSELL, Ben-Duncanville, TX LOCKRIDGE, John H.-Brookville, IN VARGAS, Manuel V. Sanchez-Ponce, PR CLARKE, Daniel I.-Mobile, AL LYTTLE, George-Spring Lake, MI WATERS, Robert W. -Owego, NY CREECH, Ernest L.-Memphis, TN MADISON, David S.-Port Orchard, WA WATSON, Harlon-Nashville, TN EDWARDS, Maria S.-Seattle, WA MADISON, Thomas L.-Port Orchard, WA WHATLEY, Jennie-Westminster, CO FIFER, George J.-Oak Creek, WI MARTIN, Priscilla-Fort Worth, TX WILLIAMS, Fred-Cincinnati, OH FLETCHER, John M.-Rockville, MD McELHINNEY, Luke-Woodside, NY WILLIAMS, G. Scott-Paris, TX FORGEY, M.E.-Glendale, CA MONTGOMERY, William-Clearwater, FL WINN, Larry-Greenville, SC FREY, Steve-Apple Valley, MN MOTT, J.R.-So. Ashfield, MA WITTMANN, Theodore P.-:Jackson Heights, NY GOODALL, A.-Chatham, Ontario MUZYKA, Eileen-Reinholds, PA WOLFSON, David-Bayside, NY GOWER, Fred E.-Qualicum Beach, BC OLDHAM, Richard-Madison, WI YATES, R. Martin-Hamilton, Ontario GREENE, Clifford R.-Denver, CO ORSO, Howard-Mobile, AL ZETROUER, Lester C.-Palatka, FL GREGORY, Brent-Henderson, KY PIATT, Gene-Omaha, NE ZIEROTH, Elmer A.-Durham, CT HALE, Julie A. -Anchorage, AK PRIMAK, Arthur-Miami, FL ZINT, Thomas N.-Lawrenceburg, IN HARGIS, Eagar M.-Freehold, NJ PRITCHARD, Lewis-Denver, CO RIFKIN, Virginia-Denver, CO ROBINSON, Harlin R.-Dallas, TX RODRIQUEZ, Domingo-Humacao, PR ROWAN, James J.-Quincy, IL SANDLER, Miles F.-Kansas City, MO SAUNDERS, Ken-Paris, TX

flEW mEmEE~! ~======~ February 19 79 /Horological Times 29 ·rwln CITY SUPPLY I Serving the industry since 1921 \ BooK REVIEW LARGE STOCK OF OLD AMERICAN AND DISCONTINUED SWISS PARTS by H enry B. Fried FULL LINE OF GENUINE MATERIALS LOWEST PRICES ON BATTERY CLOCK The Banjo Timepiece: An In-Depth Study of the Weight MOVEMENTS Driven Banjo Clock, by Chipman P. Ela. Fryeburg, ME, lWIN CITYWATCH SUPPLYCO. Carriage House, 1978. $28.50. 200 pages, 319 figures. 425 Hennepin Ave. Minneapolis, MN 5 540 I This is the only book which deals exclusively with that typ­ (612) 339- 5577 ically styled American clock, the banjo, tenned after its rough shape. Simon Willard of Grafton, Massachusetts, one of a ' family of gifted clockmakers, is credited with its introduction. PARIS TEXAS COLLEGE The book's author, Chipman Phillips Ela, is a restorer of such LEARN JEWELRY TECHNOLOGY GEMOLOGY FOR THE JEWELER clocks. Hundreds of such clocks have passed through his shop WATCH REPAIRING JEWELRY STORE OPERATION and hands. He has studied each clock, catalogued it and has "" The most comprehensive training program for the retail jeweler in America .. traveled the country searching out others. Mr. Ela holds a BA • State Sup pu rt~d • Non-Profit lmtitutio n • Lu"' Tui1i un Rates • No Our-Qi'·S latc Tuition (har~c degree from Brown University in Massachusetts, and now • Journeymen lnsuu~.:~urs • Quarterly J.::nrollmcnf D ate~ • I ina nc ial Aid Available to L:.l igiblc Stude nts resides in Freyburg, where he operates the Carriage House • St:Hc and I c dcr<..~\ Approved l'or Handicapped Antique Clocks business. • Singk or Ma rried S1 udc nt H ousi n~ Available • (ourSt.'\ Approved for Veteran'" Tr;..inin~ WRITE FOR MORE INFORMATION This book shows the thorough efforts which Mr. Ela COURSES OFFERED AS CERTIFICATE COURSES: has used to research and compile the information within its WATCH REPAIR JEWELRY REPAIR STOllE SETTING GEMOLOGY FOR THE JEWELER Horology or Jewelry Technology can lead to an Associate Degree lrom Paris Texas covers. Banjo clocks of over 53 distinct makers are shown and College and/or to a Bachelors Degree at several participating Unive rsitie s. discussed, with their distinct features shown by photographs. PARIS TEXAS COLLEGE Division of Horology, There are sketches with his nomenclature of each part of the Jewelry Technology case. Identifying features are provided of the various makes PARIS, TEXAS 75460 and Gemology of movements and cases by photographs and sketches. A short chapter on "Authenticity of Banjos" discusses fakes, put­ togethers, unmatched movements and cases, winding holes and various details which reveal the clock's lineage to the expert. Movements of the Willards, Simon and Aaron, Jr., Support the Elnathan Taber, Cummens, Abbott, Samuel Whiting, Curtis, Sawin, Wilder and others are shown, as are details and descrip­ tions of the whole clock. A 30-odd-page chapter on "Comparisons" between AWl- ELM TRUST clocks and their significant features, cases and case parts, dials and hands, movements, pawls and clicksprings (case) side­ Scholarship Program arms, chimneys and bezels is both in chart form and with wheel train counts. Significant differences between makers, case individualities and measurements are listed in chart by form. The characteristic differences in dials and hands are also charted. Six pages in this chapter show sketches of 4 7 types of Sending your old pawls and click springs,, indicative of each maker's style. While they do illustrate the differences, it is regretful that the author had not taken more pains with these illustrations instead of watch batteries the freehand sketches of one, mildly put, who is not an accomplished artist.

to the "Chimneys" and case tops, ftnials, too, are likewise illustrated and are almost ' fm gerprint" identification for the AMERICAN collector, as much as the setting parts of watch movements are for identification purposes. Profiles of bezels are both photo­ WATCHMAKERS graphed and sketched in a like manner. Throats and box frames are pictured accompanied with discussions of the differences of the various makers of INSTITUTE such clocks. Also, a short section on troubleshooting and repairs reflects good advice and procedure . To the person intent on collecting, repairing or identifying these fine American clocks, this book should prove

30 Horological Times/February 1979 an invaluable guide and despite some shortcomings, is still a valuable addition to the library of the collector-repairer of American clocks. The photographs of the clocks and movements, although in focus, appear as though they were printed through a hazy lens cover. Although the author apologizes for the on­ Color Coded for the-spot photography taken at times under poor conditions, FAST and EASY Double Shoulder Regular "the emphasis necessarily was on showing details and con­ Fitting... struction features not on elegant photography." Yet due to o OUTSIDE OF LID IS A DECAL TO EXACT SCALE SHOWING COLOR CODING AND unclear photographs, some construction and dial features NUMERICAL SIZE OF EACH LENGTH OF BAR USED IN THE KIT. o INSIDE THE LID IS A GRID SHOWING LOCATION AND BAR NUMBER OF EACH and other details remain obscure. SIZE. THE NUMBER OF SPRING BARS OF EACH LENGTH INCLUDED IS DETER­ MINEO BY THE DEMAND FOR EACH SIZE. Like many first effort technical authors, Ela has Refills - $3. 75 per 100 Zebra Bars succumbed to the temptation to coin or define terms, some­ thing best left to the lexicographer. Ela specifically defines USE OF CURVING SPOONS Kit Series No. 300- 36 Com­ "timepiece" as a "weight driven regulator which does not WHEN NEEDED, partments with 1,000 Zebra Insert longer bars between larger spoons, strike" although elsewhere in the book he quotes a tablet shorter bars between smaller spoons and press Bars Gauge and Curving evenlytoinsurethepropercurvedeslred in an Aaron Willard, Jr. "striking clock", "putting up the Tool...... • each $44.95 timepiece." Webster's and various other dictionaries agree alniost to the word for "timepiece" as "any instrument that Kit Series No. 100- 18 Com­ partments with 750 Zebra Bars, measures, indicates or records the progress of time, especially JUST A PUSH OF THE THUMB! NO NEED TO STOCK CURVED Gauge and Curving Tool a clock or watch." Likewise the term "verge" is used when SPRING BARS...... each $34.95 perhaps the term "anchor" might be a better description. The term verge actually refers to (again quoting Webster) "the With this kit and use of the gauge and curving tool, any unskilled spindle of a balance wheel especially in an old-fashioned person in the store can come up with the co"ect spring bar in a minute or less. vertical escapement" (emphasis mine). Although some clock­ makers refer to the American recoil anchor escapement as a JEWELRY SUPPLY CORP. verge, it is an incorrect carryover from the verge escapement in NIAGARA which the pallet flags are part of and midway on the verge Ellicott Square Building staff. Buffalo, New York 14203 In the description of the Willard striking "timepiece" Phone: (716) 853-5000 the author notes that, "the plate thickness varies between .090 and .102 cm."This is equal to about 1/25 of an inch, rather thin. Perhap the same in inches might have been meant. Despite these occasional shortcomings, this is a definitive work providing for the greatest part, authoritative references and guidelines to anyone seriously interested in ~w~~~ these clocks. ~~~~(!)~~w from CAS-KER THE MOST CONVINCING ESEMBL-0-GRAF LIBRARY DIAMOND SUBSTITUTE 28 Volumes, Pittsburgh, 1955. Chronograph re­ YET CREATED! pairing is made easy by the fully-illustrated, Step­ by-Step disassembly and assembly procedure. Each slim volume is used as a tool right at the bench. If you have never repaired a chronograph, these Cubic Zirconia Diamond books will show you how. If you are familiar with Hardness 8.5 10 chronograph repair, the library will enable you to Refractive index 2 .2 2 .41 7 Dispersion 0 .0 6 0 0.044 save time. Specific gravity 5 .4 3.5 2 28 Volumes ...... $200.00 Chemistry zro2 Y 2 o 3 c (Hamilton 500 Manuals free while they last with the King of purchase of the Esembl-0-Graph Library) Zirconia CAS-KER CO. Write E.O.G., P.O.Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Drawer A Cincinnati Phone P.O. Box 2347 Ohio 45201 [513] 241·7074

February 1979/Horological Times 31 bridge or plate on the cement brass, and to provide a place to spread more shellac on the cement brass which provides more holding power for the plate or bridge. Before using this cement Technically brass, it should be cleaned well in clean denatured alcohol. This helps make the shellac stick to the cement brass better. The bridge or plate that is to be shellacked should also be WATCHES cleaned in denatured alcohol. The best type of shellac to use is orange shellac in stick or flake form. IICIGIOOIIIIIICJCIIIOIIIIIIOIIOIIIOIOIOIOOIO To shellac up a bridge or plate, an alcohol lamp is used to heat the cement brass. Then, while the cement brass is hot, the shellac is applied to the face of the cement brass. Only a thin coating is needed. Now, while the shellac is still melted, the bridge is placed against the face of the cement

by Archie B. Perkins, CMW (all rights reserved by the author)

SETTING BEZEL JEWELS ©1979 Part 2

Figure 1. Anyone possessing a watchmaker's lathe can use two indispen­ sable methods in replacing bezel jewels. These two methods are the use of cement brasses and the face plate. Although cement brasses may be considered an obsolete fixture for the lathe by some watch and clock repairmen, they are still an important item for the lathe since this is considered to be one of the best ways to true items up in the lathe. Some watch and clock parts are so irregular in shape that it is very difficult, if not impossible, to chuck them up true other than by the use of cement brasses. Cement brasses are less expensive than some of the other methods, and they can be made by watch and clock repairmen with very little experience or effort. Cement brasses were used almost exclusively before the split chuck was invented by Charles S. Moseley about 1859. Although the split chuck was a revolution in methods of chucking up round items, this did not obsolete the cement brass, since the split chuck did not always run true and was not well suited to chuck irregularly shaped parts. Figure 2.

Some different sized cement brasses are illustrated in Figure I. The brasses are usually threaded to screw into a screw chuck made for that purpose. Sometimes the shank of the cement brass is tapered to fit the tapered center chuck. When this is the case, there is a pin placed in the side of the tapered shank of the cement brass that goes into a slot cut in the taper chuck. This prevents the cement brass from turning in the taper chuck. To set a jewel with the use of a cement brass, first select a cement brass of the proper size, large enough to support the complete bridge or plate. This cement brass is placed in the lathe, and with the aid of a slide rest, is faced flat and true. Then with a graver or cutter in the slide rest, graduated diameter circular grooves are cut into the face of the cement brass. These circular grooves serve two purposes: to help in the centering of the Figure 3.

32 Horological Times/February 1979 ~~------,------J~-'--" I e

8 c lRLc Dl

Figure 4.

brass with the jewel bezel facing outward. With the aid of a dangers of an open flame , an electric hot plate can be used piece of pegwood, press the bridge flat against the cement to heat the alcohol in the beaker or pan. brass. Adjust the T-rest up close to the bridge with the T Another method used in setting jewels in watch parallel to the face of the cement brass. Now, with the aid of plates and bridges is the use of a face plate. The face plate is a pointed pegwood that fits the cavity for the jewel in the illustrated in Figure 5. It is a flat plate mounted on a chuck bridge , proceed to true up the bridge with the point of the that fits into the lathe head. (The plate has three clamps that pegwood in the jewel cavity of the bridge and resting the peg­ are adjustable in slots in the plate.) This allows different diam­ wood on the T-rest. Reheat the cement brass, and, while the eter watch plates and other items to be chucked up. Also going lathe is turning, true up the cavity in the bridge. The pegwood through the center of the chuck and face plate is a pump should be held in position in the cavity until the shellac cools center which is used to help center up an item being chucked and hardens. See Figure 2 for a bridge and Figure 3 for a plate. up in the face plate. This center is adjusted in and out in the Now use the back of a jewel bezel burnisher to open face plate by a rod that fits through the hole in the draw-in the bezel for the new jewel. Then place the new jewel, with a spindle of the lathe and screws into the end of the pump little oil on it, into its hole. Then use the face of the bezel burnisher to burnish the bezel onto the beveled corner of the jewel while the lathe is turning clockwise (as you are facing the work), as shown in Figures 4D and 4E. After the jewel is burnished tightly into the cavity, reheat the cement brass with the alcohol lamp to remove the bridge. To remove the shellac from the bridge, it can be soaked in denatured alcohol. To remove it faster, it may be boiled in denatured alcohol in a boiling out pan, or better yet, in a pyrex beaker or test tube. Caution : This is very hazardous as the alcohol can ignite during the boiling process. If the alcohol should ignite in the boiling out pan, it can be smothered out by placing the cover of the boiling out pan over the pan. If you are using a beaker or test tube and the alcohol ignites, it can be smothered out by placing something flat that won't burn over the open­ ing of the beaker. To help avoid the ignition of the alcohol, one should use the least possible amount of alcohol in the pan or beaker and a very small alcohol lamp flame. To avoid the Figure 5.

February 1979/Horological Times 33 screw for leveling the jaw of the clamp on the item being clamped, and h is the face plate. Before a face plate is used, it should be checked to make sure it runs true. Place the face plate into the headstock of the lathe. Now set the T-rest close to the edge of the face plate. Then turn the lathe slowly by hand and see that the light space between the face plate and the T-rest shows no deviation. Now set the T-rest close and parallel to the face of the face plate. Now turn the lathe head slowly to make sure that the face plate runs true in the flat. It is more important for the face plate to run true in the flat than in the round since the clamps are adjustable in the round but not in the flat. Now check the truth of the pump center by adjusting the T-rest close to the center and turning the lathe slowly by hand. The center must turn absolutely true and have a true sharp point. If a face plate doesn't run true, the first think to check is the beveled seat on the chuck and its seat in the end of the lathe spindle. The beveled seat on the chuck may have metal shavings imbedded in it or dirt on it, there could be dirt in the lathe spindle. After cleaning these surfaces, the face plate should run true. If it doesn't, chances are it has been dropped or mistreated and is in need of repairs.

THE COMPANY 13750 Neutron Road • Dallas, Texas 75234 CALL Nationwide Texas only TOLL-FREE! 800-527-4722 800-492-4104

Figure 7. To use the face plate, place it in the lathe head. Now place the watch plate to be worked on between its jaws, with the hole to be worked on near the center of the face plate. Now with the aid of the adjusting rod, push the pump center outward toward the hole in the watch plate. Re­ adjust the clamps until the pump center goes into the hole and is centered with the hole, then clamp the plate tight. To ob­ serve the point of the pump center, look through one of the peep holes in the face plate from the back side of the plate as in Figure 6. Figure 6. Now, to make sure the hole in the plate runs true, center. The three clamps that hold the work are constructed use the following procedure. Set the T-rest of the lathe so as shown in Figure 4A. the T is parallel to the watch plate and at a distance of about Figure 4A shows the construction of the face plate. 5 mm from the plate. Take a piece of pegwood and sharpen Part a is the face plate 9b is the clamp, cis the pump center, it to fit into the hole being checked and trued. Cut a flat side d is the chuck that the face plate is mounted on , e is the on the pegwood where it will be resting on the T of the T-rest. adjusting rod for the pump center, f is the guide pin for the Now place the pointed end of the pegwood loosely into the pump center. This pin works in a slot cut lengthwise in the hole in the plate, letting the flat side of the pegwood rest on pump center which prevents the center from turning while the the T-rest. The pegwood should be level with the lathe bed. adjusting rod is being screwed in and out of the pump center. If it is not, adjust the T-rest so it will be level. Figure 4B shows a watch plate fastened in one of the Now turn the lathe head slowly and observe the three clamps of the face plate. Figure 4C shows an exploded blunt end of the pegwood. If it remains still and doesn't move view of the same clamp. Part a is the outside jaw of the clamp, up and down, then the hole runs true. If the end of the peg­ b is the inside jaw of the clamp, c is the clamp bolt, d is wood moves up and down, the plate needs adjusting in the the clamp screw with knurled head, e is the washer for the face plate. The method used to do this adjusting is illustrated clamp screw, f is the te_nsion spring which spreads the jaws as in Figure 7. To adjust the plate in the face plate, use a piece the clamp screw is loosened, g is the height adjusting clamp of clock pegwood or boxwood with small hammer. When the

34 Horological Times/Febmary 1979 SAVE 5H! MAKE 135°/o

Figure 8. end of the pegwood goes down, this means the plate is high in the face plate and must be staked down with the wood and hammer. Repeat this procedure until the pegwood remains still when the lathe is turning slowly. Recheck the clamps for tight­ ness and recheck the truth by observing the end of the peg­ wood. Now the jewel bezel can be opened with the back of the bezel burnisher, the new jewel can be inserted into the hole, and the bezel burnished over onto its beveled edge with the face of the bezel burnisher. See Figures 4D and 4E. Another good use for the face plate is in uprighting pivot holes. If a pivot hole in a bridge is out of upright with the one in the plate, the hole can be centered up in the plate, For just $99, here's what you get: and the bridge then attached to the plate (Figure 8). Now with 37 Accutron"' cells. Cost $1 .23 each, suggested retail $2.95 each. Your Profit: $63.64. the aid of the slide rest and boring tool, bore out the damaged hole in the bridge until it is true. This will make it upright with 44 assorted solid state and mercury cells. Cost $1.23 each, suggested retail $2.15 each. Your the hole in the plate. On the other hand, if the hole in the profit: $40.48. plate is damaged, place the bridge on the watch plate and 20 gaskets. Cost FREE, suggested retail $1.50 place the watch plate in the face plate centering up the good each. Your profit: $30.00. hole in the bridge. Then remove the bridge from the watch You can make $233, a clear profit of $134 on a plate. Now the hole in the plate can be bored out true and $99 investment. PLUS whatever you choose to upright with the one in the bridge. This is a good method to make on labor. And there's more. 5 case openers, 2 case wrenches and 1 LED battery spring for your be used when a 7-jewel watch is being up-jeweled to a 17 jewel own use. watch. Most important of all , you get the new Bulova Since two different methods of chucking up watch Power Cell Replacement Guide, the most complete, plates have been discussed in this article, some may wonder illustrated service manual in the industry. You 'll know which genuine Bulova power cell to use, how which method has the most merit. Consider the following many you 'll need and where and how to insert them. points. Cement brasses may be considered obsolete by many, You 'll also know which Bulova power cell to use for but they are still needed, especially when restoring antique nearly every make and type of watch your cus­ watches. The face plate is a very important attachment for the tomers bring in . lathe, but it is much more expensive than cement brasses. The It 's the best guide written , and exactly what you'd expect from the people who give you the most face plate is better adapted to certain types of jobs than tested, most reliable batteries made. cement brasses. A plate is held more securely in a face plate than on a cement brass since the shellac does not always hold The Bulova"' Power Cell well and is affected by the heat build-up while the watch plate is being worked on. When the work is shellacked up on a Replacement Case cement brass and later removed, there is a need to remove the A name you know on a power cell you can trust. shellac from the work which takes time. This is not needed when using a face plate. 0 ~ - - c:nt:t ~o-: :;hor:-e;;-B-:lo: ~at eri;Sale:-D:r:u~ r~r:~ - - ~ this coupon now to : Bulova Watch Company, Material Sales 1 I Division, 62-10 Woodside Avenue, Woodside, N.Y. 11377. I l Send me Bulova Power Cell Replacement I Buy•Seii·Hire·Relocate• 1 Case(s) at $99 each . : 1[ Firm Name I Address------Learn•Find 1 City State __ Zip l I I Classifieds in Horological Times help you do I My Jobber's Name is I what you want to do! I ~~~

February 1979/Horological Times 35 AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN

by Willard Blakley cMw

AWI members, by the time you read this article, most of you will know if you are going to remain members of AWI or not. Anytime we have an increase in dues, we seem to lose a few members. I ask that you take a few minutes to make at least two phone calls. You can call a doctor or lawyer and fmd out how much their annual dues are. Our membership dues in AWl are like a gift. I have been asked about the dues increase. The best answer I can give is suggest that you look around and see what is being done for you by AWl and you will have the from all around answer. If we are to maintain the standard we have set in the ASSOCIATION the past few years, it is a must that we raise the dues. If any of you have a copy of the old AWl News, take a few minutes and compare it with our current publication, Horological Times. I believe you will be surprised at the change that has taken NEW YORK place. The AWl News was good in its time, but we have def­ initely made progress in this field. HSNY's first meeting of 1979 was held on January 8 at the Hotel Americana. New officers for this year are President, AWl has so many things to offer its members. If you Howard Levy; Vice President, Geoffrey Levy; Executive have dropped out of AWl because the dues are now $30.00 a Secretary, Alvin Rudnick; Recording Secretary, Aaron Ren­ year and not $25.00, you have made a mistake and I hope you nert; Treasurer and Financial Secretary, Peter Davis; Sgt. at will reconsider. If AWI or Horological Times has helped you Arms, Victor Hull; and Trustees, Julius Grenetz and Irving on one job alone in time, this would almost pay your dues for Albert. The Executive Committee is composed of Jack Klass, the year. You members in other countries, I urge you to tell Ben Matz, Morton Silver, Harry Fisher, and Aaron Cohen. your fellow watchmakers what AWI has to offer. The Horo­ The Executive Committee has chosen two AWI logical Times needs to be in the hands of every watchmaker. Bench Courses for presentation this year. Members who wish AWI can help all watchmakers have a better job and a better to take advantage of this opportunity should choose and con­ way of life. Sometime ask that watchmaker who has been tact either President Howard Levy or Vice President Geoffrey working at the bench some 40 or 50 years how much AWl Levy. These are Repair of the ESA 9362 and ETA 940111 could have helped him to repair and to better understand all Swiss Quartz Analog Watches and Introduction to Solid State the watches he has to repair. Watch Repairing. In addition to these courses, Bulova Watch We cannot begin to thank AWl instructors who take Company is continuing its Field Training Program on re­ their time to put on the workshops. They work hard and we pairing Bulova SMQ models. can learn much from them. AWl members get a better price for the bench courses than nonmembers. Let's face it, mem­ bers have everything to gain. Membership in AWl doesn't cost, it pays. IOWA If I can be of any help to you in answering questions about AWl, please feel free to write or phone me. If I can't In September the Iowa Jewelers and Watchmakers merged answer your questions, I will find out the answers, and write and now operate as one association, the Iowa Jewelers and back to you. I do believe in AWl and will work to do whatever Watchmakers Association. The 1978 convention/trade show I can to help it continue to grow. We have something very was a huge success, with attendance up over 167 from last large and something very good to offer you for a very small year. Jewelers and watchmakers from all over Iowa were in price. attendance. A Board Member/Salesman brunch was held in Think about AWl and if you haven't already done September. At this meeting, the salesmen requested that the so, get that check in the mail today for membership in AWL convention/trade show be in September, so it has been sched­ uled for September 22-23, 1979, in Des Moines. Two hundred twelve jewelers, watchmakers, sales­ men and store personnel attended the Saturday evening ban­ quet/dance. Many lovely gifts, donated by the salesmen and

36 Horological Times fFebrnary 19 79 firms were given away during intermission and recipients of SINCE 1877 the two one hundred dollar bills were Mrs. Irv Palm of Red BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL 147 N. Duke St. Lancaster, Pa. 17602 Oak and Arnold Wenell of Laurens. Offers you the most comprehensive courses in Watchmaking and Repairing Clockmaking and Repairing Jewelry Repairing and Stonesetting Engraving NEW JERSEY Send for free brochure An Equal Opportunity Facility Watchmakers Association of New Jersey held its 39th annual dinner dance in November at the San Carlo in Lyndhurst. This gala social even traditionally closes out the year for U.S. HEADQUARTERS FOR ALL SCHATZ PARTS NJWA. PARTS FOR THE NEW 400 DAY ELECTRONICS Planning for 1979 was begun at the December meet­ ALSO FORKUNDO ELECTRONIC ing of the Board of Directors. Joseph Barbieri, program chair­ GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE man, has been asked to try repeating the more successful 7760 FAY AVENUE events of the past year. LA JOLLA, CALIFORNIA 92037 In particular, members expressed enthusiasm for the panel discussion program which gave Jersey watchmakers a chance to hear from service department representatives of DON'T TURN AWAY ORIENT leading manufacturers. WATCHES FOR REPAIR. WE CAN The panel brought together Mitch Adler of Bulova, SUPPLY MOST PARTS FOR ORIENT. Joe Barbieri of Caravelle, Marty Berzon and Al Rudnick of Omega, Ira Green and Jack Schecter of Seiko and Lou Zanoni HELP US TO PROCESS YOUR ORDER CORRECTLY THE FIRST TIME BY INCLUDING ALL OF THE FOLLOWING of Zantech. Members submitted whatever questions they liked INFORMATION: to this panel, and the answers gave a good indication where policies and products differ and what problems are common A- MOVEMENT CALIBER NUMBER. to the entire industry. Getting all these men together on one B-ALL NUMBERS FROM BACK OF CASE. night was probably Joe Barbieri's neatest trick of the year. C - COLOR OF CASE. For openers in 1979, Barbieri invited back two KILB & COMPANY always popular speakers: Henry Frystak, instructor for Bulova 623 N. SECOND ST. field training services, who spoke at the January 9 meeting, P.O. DRAWER 8-A and Don DeWolfe ofPortescap on February 13. On January 28 a bench course was given in the MILWAUKEE. WI 53201 Newark area, offering yet another opportunity to keep abreast of new developments. This all-day seminar was taught by Bill Biederman of AWl and featured both the ESA 9362 Analog and the ETA 94011 Analog. KIENZLE CLOCK MOVEMENTS Battery Operated (1.5v) QUARTZ (4.1943 Megahertz) • Standard 12 Hour • 24 Hour • Day Date • 1/2 Hour Strike • Insert Movement (also as comp . fit-up) • Mini Pendulum • Pendulum (8, 10, 12, 14, 18, 21 ")

ELECTRONIC (5 Hz.-36,000 pr/hr) • Standard 12 Hour • 24 Hour • Bell (1 Strike Per Hour) • Pendulum (8, 10, 12, 14, 18, 21") Watchmakers Association of New Jersey officers All Kienzle clock movements are self at the 39th annual dinner dance, L to R: Emil Ches­ starting, with sweep, 17.5 or 22mm (.689 sari, Trustee; Joseph Barbieri, Vice President; Bernard or .866") center shaft. Movements are Berthoud, Membership Chairman; Walter Riegler, complete with fittings . President; Alex Kast, Treasurer; and Joseph Cerullo, Kienzle manufactures and services a com­ plete line of Movements, Automobile Clocks, Secretary. Timers, Wall and Desk Clocks and Watches. Immediate Delivery. Contact your local supplier. If not available, call or write: NORTH CAROLINA KIENZLE TIME CORP., INC. The Coastal Plain Guild in cooperation with the NCWA and 3334 Commercial Ave., Northbrook, Il l. 60062 AWI sponsored a seminar on Bulova Quartz analogs and Phones: 312/564-1707 Telex: 72-4461

February 1979/Horological Times 37 LCDs on October 15. On November S, NCWA sponso~ed an On Sunday, March 4 the Watchmakers Association AWl seminar, instructed by Bill Biedennan. The seminar of Pennsylvania, AWl, and Seiko Time Corporation will covered three watches: the ESA Quartz 9362 analog, the ETA sponsor a program in Sewickly, Pennsylvania. The bench Quartz 940111 analog, and the ESA Quartz 942711 LCD course will cover repair of the ESA 9362 and ETA 940111 chronograph. The seminar was free to members of the NCWA Swiss quartz analog, with Bill Biederman as insturctor. The and was held at Wayne Community College. This seminar was program is a "doubleheader," and the featured second half will repeated on November 7 in Charlotte at the Holiday Inn. be a slide , film and lecture program entitled "The Digital Explosion," presented by Jack Schecter, manager of Technical GEORGIA Services of Seiko.

The Georgia Watchmakers and Jewelers Guild adopted a FLORIDA price list as a guide at its November meeting. The intent was to establish a fair and reasonable charge to the customer for Material dealers, educators, manufacturers' representatives repairs done in the highest standards of the craft. and lecturers gathered at the Florida State Watchmakers Con­ The Guild meets every first Monday of the month vention in Orlando for a successful event. (excluding holidays) at Sambo's Restaurant in Decatur. AWl immediate Past President James Broughton was the instructor of the Citizen bench course; Marvin Whitney, PENNSYLVANIA AWI Treasurer, lectured on marine chronometers, their history and repair; l&R's Tom Lange told about the "new" for The Delaware Valley Watchmakers Guild is barely one year watchmakers; along with Henry Frystak of Bulova Watch old, and has grown unbelievably in its first busy year. Eight Company; Incabloc's Francis Hatchell; Tom LaRose, material concerned and dedicated master watchmakers met in January dealer; Dennis Tracey of Mallory Battery Company; Joe 1978 and formed a guild. By the time of the November Liebman, FSWA Past President, showing how gears are cut; meeting, there were 50 members-an increase of over 500% Henry Livesay, material dealer, brought his own CPA, who in the 10 months of existence. During this time they became informed the attend.ees of the importance of accounting; and a guild member of the Watchmakers Association of Penn­ Paul Crom demonstrated gear cutting. The convention was sylvania, were chartered through them by the State of Penn­ a two-day affair, with ladies treated to Sea World and a shop­ sylvania and affiliated with the AWI. ping spree.

FSWA Officers: Paul Finne, Exc. Secretary; Kenneth Tom Whitney, Don Leverenz and Clint Aderman, Past Heitz, President; George Hoyt, Vice President; and convention chairman. Presidents of AWl. Paul Wilson, Treasurer.

Scenes from Florida

Francis Hatchell, Joe Liebman, readying his gear Marvin Whitney lncabloc representative. cutting slide program.

38 Horological Times/February 1979 AvV; techrHc t b:...:;:ec"ns AvV. i~ot line AW oench coun:es AW i horological time~ AW I musevv: AW employrnent service AWl films and slides AWl ad assistan.ce AWl library AWl homes :Jdy AV\! certi~ication AWl federal liason AWl schoiarshtps AWl awards

AWl NEWS

Back in the forties, when I was in my teens, there was a very new policy. Eve~tually a policy similar to ours was found. popular song whose lyrics advised that "You've got to accen­ However, it too contained the clause of cancellation upon tuate the positive and eliminate the negative." I suspect those "proper" notification, the same clause which had hurt us in of you who are of my vintage remember it. In AWl there have the CNA plan. In addition, this plan was weaker in other areas been many positives to accentuate, but occasionally a negative of protection than our original plan. A vote of our policy does arise. It's one of these negatives that I feel compelled to holders turned the newly offered plan down by a margin of report on this month. more than three to one. In July 1972, AWl embarked on an insurance plan for AWi members which offered income protection in the event Soon after the "hassle" over the reduction of the they became disabled. AWl's Good and Welfare Committee disability coverage in our policy, the regional manager of CNA worked diligently for several years to come up with a plan that wrote me as follows: "Milt, as I have indicated to you in the they felt was a suitable one. During the course of their activ­ past, I owe you or more aptly put, I owe your merribers a ity, the Good and Welfare Committee reviewed several dozen favor, and as soon as I can improve this program at no increase proposals. Finally in June 1972 they presented a plan written in premium, I will most assuredly do so." We were not sure by the Continental Casualty Company Division of CNA just what form this "favor" would take, but felt sure our mem­ Insurance, Chicago, Illinois. The Board gave its approval bers would benefit from it. You can imagine our disbelief and and the program was offered to our membership. disappointment when in October of 1978 we were informed The plan operated quite satisfactorily for four years. that effective January 1, 1979, CNA would not renew cover­ It was well administered and claims were fairly settled. Then in age for those members who were covered under the sub­ July of 1976, we were informed that our policy in its original standard portion of our insurance program. This insurance form would not be renewed. They offered a substitute policy company certainly had a strange way of paying a "favor." which changed the length of payment for disability due to We again appealed with little hope of success to the accident from life, to five years. The only explanation for this Insurance Board of the ·state of Ohio. They didn't surprise us action, "Unfortunately current underwriting policy of the when they refused to help us in this situation. An appeal to Company does not permit continuation of the plan as it is now CNA management brought this response from William J. written." Incredible when you realize that the claims experi­ O'Keefe, Assistant Vice President of CNA in Chicago. "It is ence for our group policy was good during this period of time, unfortunate that there are instances when a book of business and the company was making money from the plan. At that or a product line must be cancelled. Perhaps even in your time I made an appeal to the Insurance Board 'of the State of business, certain types of watches can no longer be econom­ Ohio. One almost would have thought the representative of ically produced or properly serviced." What Mr. O'Keefe the Ohio Board was on CNA's payroll, the way he went to failed to consider is the human and moral issues involved. great lengths to convince me that the Insurance Company was They have been collecting premiums from these policy holders well within their rights to change the terms of the coverage. In for six years; during this time the policy holders felt secure in fact, he pointed out that this action was standard policy of all their future and felt that protection would be theirs through­ insurance companies, and sound business. _out years to come. Little did the policy holders or AWl know After we were forced to accept this lesser coverage, that just as soon as our members reached the position in life the Good and Welfare Committee again began a search for a when some of them would be ready to call upon the protec-

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tion they had been paying for, the company would arbitrarily It is a characteristic fact of human condition that there are cancel the policy. always more issues and problems in our existence than we can Mr. O'Keefe's statement left little doubt that it was possibly deal with at one time. Thus we are forced to make just a matter of time before the other segment of our protec­ choices of preference and bring some sort of order into our tion plan would become economically unsound (in the eyes of affairs. I once read somewhere that no matter how little time the company) and this portion of the plan would also be we have to do things we want to or have to do, we must terminated. We choose to withdraw our support of the entire always reserve some time for planning. If we fail to do so, program at this time so that the rest of our members would most of those pressing things we have to do will not be done, not be paying for "protection" that there was little likelihood or will not be done on time. The choices and the planning are of being available when the need occurred. also two important ingredients in the life of an organization lt is true that the discontinuance of our group in­ such as AWl , and it is evident that they are being used to the surance plan affects only about 1% of our total membership. fullest extent. That among other reasons, is why this organiza­ My reason for devoting so much space to this issue is because tion is so vibrant and progressive. I feel there is a lesson to be learned from this experience, one The Directors of AWl made a number of choices at that we and our insured members, learned the hard way. In­ the annual meeting and one of them was to elect Les Smith surance plans of this kind are of little value unless there is a as Vice President. I am sure that Les has to do a lot of plan­ clause which forbids the insurance company from terminating ning to make most of his time divided between his responsi­ or changing a policy when 'current underwriting policy of the bilities to his business, the AWl, his seminar schedule, and company does not allow continuation of the plan." We strong· his private life. One of his decisions, or if you wish, his choices ly recommend that Affiliate Chapters who contemplate, of preference, was to devote most of his time and effort during or have, a similar group plan be aware of what "protection" the months of February and March 1979 to a very intensive can really be expected from these large insura,nce companies. membership drive. I have been informed that his planning is so Similar caution is recommended for individual members for thorough that it leaves no stone unturned, and the REC mem· policies they may contemplate purchasing. ber schools are his prized targets for a potentially large number This entire experience leads us to the conclusion that of new AWl members. Thls is not surprising because Les it must be an accepted practice for insurance firms to write knows as well as we do that in order to keep an organization this kind of "protection" to collect premiums until data from in step with progress and changes in the society, it must be their sophisticated computer systems indicate that members of constantly infused with new blood. Although it seems that this particular group are approaching the age when they will some of our leaders never age we cannot expect them to begin to use the protection for which they have been paying. carry such large responsibilities forever. To register a student The insurance companies then either change the terms of the as a new member of AWI is to achieve iwo outstanding ac· coverage or cancel the policy, whichever best serves the needs complishments: to introduce that student to an invaluable of the company. source of infonnation and assistance by the most competent AWl is a lot wiser from this experience and will and most devoted group of experts in the field and to give refrain from embarking on another insurance adventure unless this organization some small financial assistance in the form of such a program truly benefits the membership as well as the a membership fee one·third ~ts normal rate as well as a new insurance firm who offers it. potential for growth and prosperity. Ideally, and this should be our objective, we should enroll every student, not so much for ours, but for his own benefit. I am confident tha,t not DON'T GET LEFT BEHIND!!! many schools will have much of a pioblem achieving this objective. In fact, some of tl1em will not be able to partake Join us aboard the in this campaign, because all of their students are members Horological Tour already. As far as I know, the Milwaukee school, under the to Europe able leadership of Gerald G. Jaeger, enjoys this honorable distinction already and I believe that they will be shortly Call AWl Central (513-661-3838) today for details. joined on this honor list by many others. How many. others

40 Horological TimesfFebrnary 1979 SCHOLASTICALLY PRICING: ~WATCH/CALCULATOR BATTERIES 1-29 cells 30-59 cells $.75 $.70 SPEAKING • Patented seatm~ pcoomlOh•IP prevent leakag~ •Pre-tested and 60 or more guarantee~ • For watc~es ca,cutators in quantities ana newsol1d state mmla\unzedapphca\IOnS • Cl\o1ceolmanu'actuers worldwide by Joseph Rug ole CMW Chairman, Research and Education Council s:&s 915 OLIVE ST. ST. LOUIS, MO 63101 1-800-325-7090 NO CHARGE MISSOURI will join them will depend largely on how much you as a mem­ CALL 1-800-392-7741 ber believe in the mutual benefits between AWl and the stu­ dents, and how good a sales job you can make to convince 95% OF YOUR BATTERY NEEDS WILL BE COVERED those who might hesitate a little. BY THE NUMBERS BELOW In this era of unending inflation I can see no other commodity on the market at such a reasonable price as stu­ USE THIS HANDY ORDER FORM dent membership in AWI. 301 303 323 343 357 386 389 390 392 393 Tempus fugit! I BATIERY: rUANTITY : I Name ______

STUDENTS COMPLETE GEMOLOGY PROGRAM I Address------AT PARIS TEXAS COLLEGE LC!~ ______State Zip ::JI

Eighteen students representing nine states received graduation certificates Monday, Dec. 4., for completion of the second Final Edition three-month program in professional gemology at Paris Texas College, according to Orlando Paddock, director of the pro­ ill- &trllu Wimr.a gram. A grant from the Texas Education Agency enabled the college to establish the intensive program in gemological Volume 1. Number 1. February 1979 training. The first class was graduated in April, and the second GOODNEWS class began in September. PHC-THE PERFECT UNBREAKABLE Graduating in the second class were Jay I. Antis of REPLACEMENT CRYSTAL FOR GLASS GENEVAS •.• Crowley, La., Nancy A. Boswell of Vicksburg, Miss., Paul Gary American Perfit Crystal Corp. in co-operation with Stella N.Y. Carriere of Church Point, La., Geri Hamilton of Arlington, of Holland introduced the NEW PHC crystal last month to Va., James F. Hamilton of Fredrick, Md., Jimmy D. Havins of watch material wholesalers from coast to coast... the popularity Manor, Tex., Shawna D. Hensley of Gatesville, Tex., Janice of Hunting Case watches has increased the demand for replace­ Hickman of Wellston, Okla., Delbert E. Hughes of Wichita ment Geneva style crystals. However, since the glass Geneva crystals are no longer available in all sizes, the PHC has been Falls, Tex., Chari Jarnagin of Anadarko, Okla., Jason Jarnagin designed to conform to the glass crystal in size, shape and of Anadarko, Okla., Andra K. Johnson of Iowa Falls, Iowa. height. Other graduates were Thomas R. Johnson of Iowa At the present time the following \4 sizes are available: Falls, Ronald Mayer of Louisville, Ky., Kim O'Shaughnessy of Portland, Oregon, Richard A. Saxen of Stuart, Iowa, Angela 23-26% (120/-1215!) Ht.7 Smith of Jonesboro, La., and Stacy G. Stutzman of Amarillo. 44-47% (180/-1815!) Ht.7 Speaker for the graduation ceremony was Bobby R. 48-49 (190/-195) Ht. 5 Walters, vice president for instructional affairs. Purpose of the more sizes will be forthcoming. program is to prepare graduates for accurate identification, PHC-1 asst. \4 dz. ea. size ( 108 crystals) $92.00. grading, appraisal of gemstones, for use and care of laboratory Each in a labeled container for the entire line, plus a equipment, for successful merchandising and ethical trade conversion chart for the ligne to the American system. practices, and for craftsmanship in the execution of bench­ Refills ...... $10.00/dz . work. Order today from your watch material supplier Assisting Paddock as instructor is Malcolm D. Heuser. Both instructors are graduates of the Gemological Institute of CRYSTAL COMPANY America. 653 11TH AVENUE Paul Clayton is chairman of the college's Division of (§) Horology, Jewelry Technology and Gemology. NEW YORK, NEW YORK 10036

Febrnary 1979/Horological Times 41 New& In The Trade

Focus·· on Vibrograf Machine Division of PORTESCAP U.S. Eighteen months after its acquisition of the ·watchmaster Pr.oducts Group from Bulova, the Vibrograf Machine Division of Portescap U.S. is rolling full steam, with new products, new offices and an expanded network of Service Stations. Located away from the crowds, the new Vibrograf facilities are just outside the New York City limits in a modem industrial park complex in Lake Success, New York, with such neighbors as Cannon, Michelin, Olympus and American Airlines. But as impressive as the surroundings are, the location was selected more for utility than beauty. The ~0,000 square foot facility is all on one level,with its own loading dock that opens onto 6,000 square feet of warehouse, service, quality control and manufacturing areas. An additional 4,000 square feet serves as administra­ tive offices, and conference and demon­ Portescap U.S. Vibrograf Machine Division's new 10,000 square foot facility (6 Ohio stration facilities. "The physical location," Drive, lake Success, New York) brings all the firm's operations-manufacturing, quality according to Joe Presti, Operations control, inventory, shipping, administration-under one conveniently located roof. Manager, "is ideally suited to our air shipment policy on all Vibrograf installa- assures us, and the customer, that nothing tion to the factory service at Lake Suc­ tions." was missed the first time around, and that cess, there are ten authorized facilities Under this program, all equip­ no damage took place during the initfal across the U.S. And, since all Vibrograf ment is air shipped to the airport nearest shipment," says Presti. sales people are technically trained, they to a customer's location, where it is held According to Presti, "It's this serve as a mobile service-team, capable for pick-up by the local factory salesman. little extra QC check, on top of a basical­ of performing minor adjustments in the "This procedure allows for a J;Ilinimum of ly well-engineered product, that keeps field. To back up the field sales force and handling and delay," according to Robert our warranty service to a ininimum" the repair stations, Portescap keeps an McClancy, V.P. and General Manager. Tumaround time on warranty service is inventory of parts valued at over a quarter "We always know exactly when a ship­ usually no more than five days. In addi- of a million dollars. ment is to arrive and when our man can But the key to a satisfied custo­ pick it up. This way our technical sales­ mer starts with delivery of the initial men can set up an appointment with a order. ln. this area too, Vibrograf is well customer that they know they can keep.,· prepared. The inventory level on new Once the quipment is at the products is kept at about half a million airport, the Vibrograf salesman picks dollars. "This," according to McClancy, it up, installs it, checks it out and demon­ "enables us to ship a customer's order strates it for the customer, to be sure he within a matter of days." knows exactly how it operates. "Even With their recently concluded the simplest equipment is handled this arrangement to serve as sole distributor way," according to McClancy. "It's for the replacement market of VARTA­ these little details that set us apart chron watch batteries in the United from other companies." States, Mexico and Canada, Portescap has Something else that sets the Vibrograf operation apart from most set up their own battery storage facility, companies, in any industry, is their dual where they maintain 90-day supplies quality control program. All equip­ of the full V ARTAchron line. This secure ment is inspected at the factory before section of the warehous·e enables the it is shipped to Lake Success, and each Joe Presti, Operations Manager for Portescap storage of batteries at ideal temperature piece is checked again just prior to ship­ U.S. Vibmgraf Machine Division reviews . and humidity ranges to prolong shelf ment to a customer. "This procedure latest inventory control sheets. life. Combinmg the controlled-envirou-

42 Horological Times/February 1979 E-QUIPMENT TRAINING PARTS Many parts are available through Zantech Learn how to repair Digital Watches from * M odules - LED and LCD- most types TEST LED & LCD WATCHES Louis A. Zanoni. President of Zantech. * Qu artz Crystals * Night Lights for LCD * Trim Caps Private and group lessons are available. The * Push Buttons mini course is an intensive training program * Switch and Battery Contact s Co nductive Rubber Sheet which int~oduce s you to the fundamental * *. Con ductive Silver Epoxy operation of the watch and some methods of making the repairs.

Course Includes:

Phase #1 Review of t he structure and components of both the LED and LCD modules

Phase #2 M ethods to test and determine w hich components "WIRE-BOND .001" CONDUCTJVE The Zantech Digital Watch Module Tester, have fai led SILVER EPOXY REPAIR KIT Model 800, is a versatile. precision instrument Wire-bond conductive epoxy .001 15 a tw o pa rt designed to eliminate the guess work in the Phase #3 silver filled. electrically conductive epo~ry , which trouble shooting of all electronic digital Methods to make repairs. which includes a solder­ hardens at room temperature a few hours after watches. The instrument is a necessity for in g and desoh:Je ring of quartz crystals. switch con­ mixing. Its very l'!tgh electrocal conductovltv and watchmakers interested in setting up a tact s, etc .. and methods of repai ring broken wire­ putty like properties make It suitable for repa1nng DIGITAL WATCH SERVICE CENTE.f'l. bonds with conductive silver epoxy fine broken w ires, such as the integrated circuit wire-bonds of a solid state watch. the coil and The Zantech 800 provides test capability to Phase #4 motor wires of electronic watches. and any other analyze the individual functions of a quartz Repair of your problem watches and modules broken w ire or sold er joint. small or large . watch module - current drain, displays, night $19.95 plus $1.00 shipping lights, integrated circuits, batteries, etc. SEND FOR APPLICATION ZANTECH, Inc., 13 Greentree Road, Trenton, New Jersey 08619- Phone: (609) 586-5088

ment storage system with well-planned inventory levels and a FIFO (First In First Out) stock procedure aSsures VARTAchron customers of the freshest power cells possible. Summing up Portescap's philoso­ phy, McClancy states, "Wf!c look at ourselves as a service-oriented operation, despite the fact that we are manufacturer. We strive to develop new instruments and tools that are in tune with the latest needs of the watch repair and jewelry industry, as well as the technical service required to keep our customers abreast of the latest technological advances." McClancy went on to note that John Hager, Supervisor of QC and Repairs, helps set up quality control test line for the in putting the company's philosophy into new Vibrograf MU-700. Every unit of every model is checked out before it is shipped to the customer. action, Vibrograf ·is introducing six products for 19 79. These include the Vibrograf MU- Joe Presti (right), Operations Manager, can often be found 700, a unique Multi-Function Tester that in the repair department getting first-hand input on any measures the rate, beat and amplitude of warranty problems that may come through. Here he goes all mechanical watches, as well as the rate over a point with John Sierra, one of Portescap's long-time of all other types of watches, including technicians. quartz and electronic; the Reno test Quartz Generation Multimeter, with numerical LED display for measurement and verification of all electronic func­ tions in quartz crystal components; a new and improved microphone watchholder for the Vibrograf M-80 Digital Quartz Analyzer; the Portescap SC-1 Steam Cleaner, the most advanced, and compact (continued on page 50)

February 1979/Horological Times 43 ------~~

CMW CMC FBHI

RARE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY CLOCKS from Various European Collections

Figure 1.

44 Horological Times/Febrnary 1979 Featured this month are four rare seventeenth century clocks from various European collections. A very rare early seventeenth century English hori­ zontal table alarm clock by Christian de Welke is shown in Figure 1. This clock is in a cylindrical gilt-metal case , sup­ ported on four lion feet and engraved with strapwork enclos­ ing hunting scenes, and with a small hinged door for observa­ tion of the fusee . Above this is the bell enclosed by a dome pierced and chased with flowering scrolls, winged heads and melusines, surmounted by the horizontal dial with a pierced alarm rose carrying the pointer for the chapter ring which has Roman numerals from I to XII and touch pins. The movement has columnar pillars, fusee and barrel, pierced barrel for strik­ ing, and a plain barrel for the alarm. The cock is superbly pierced and chased with a standing figure of Neptune and the foot with entwined figures of dolphins, the top plate also with locking plate, ratchet and click adjustment, and inscribed around the circumference is "Christianus de Welke St. Martins le Grand at London me fecit." It is SW' in diameter, circa 1620 and from theW. Hoey Caitiff Collection. Christian de Welke was admitted to the Blacksmiths' Company in 1628 when he described as a "Polander." He was a petitioner for the incorporation of the Clockmakers' Com­ pany. An early German drum-shaped table clock is featured in Figure 2. It has an astrolabe dial, in its original leather case, the gilt-metal case plain except for mouldings at the shoulder and foot. The horizontal dial has a double-twelve hour band in arabic numbers. In the center there is an astrolabe with a revolving rete, iron hand with fleur-de-lis terminal. The movement, entirely of iron, has the early type of slender fusee, and an unusually large balance wheel with a regulator on a moving arm. The mainspring has a ratchet and click set up ; the contemporary case is of brown morocco gilt, decorated with bookbinder's rolls and small tools. The clock measures 4W' in diameter and is from the mid seventeenth century. The astrolabe dial is made for the latitude of Toledo and probably was made in Germany for export to Spain. The bookbinder's tools are of a type associated with bindings made for Pietro Duodo, Venetian ambassador to Henry IV. Figu re 3 shows an extremely rare early seventeenth century silver and parcel gilt pilla r dial of cylindrical shape engraved with the signs of the zodiac. The cylinder is formed of a number of parts which screw into each other. At the base is a watch of single hand catgut fusee type wi th a landscape engraved in the center of the gilt dial, the top plate with decorative ratchet and pierced cock is stamped ' G. K.V.," Figure 2. and engraved at a later date " London.' Next is a compass with hinged gnomon , then a pounce pot and in kwell. The main part of the cylinder is fitted with ·scientifi c and other instru· gram "E.A.B." enclosed by a pierced and domed cover for use ments, including a pair of scissors frn ely engraved with Re· as a ·pomander. Contained . in _a contemporary leather case, naissance motifs, a combined fork and -pen, a knife, spoon, a richly tooled and-gilt, the clock is 6 1/8" high, circa 1600-1620. pair of dividers, and the gnomon for the cylinder dial. Above It is from the Sneyd Collection, Keele Hall. this is a compartment probably intended for scent with A Thomas Tampion month striking long-case clock screw-on lid inscribed probably at a later date with the mono- is shown in Figure 4. The 10" square dial has a matted center,

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February 1979/Horological Times 45 calendar aperture, finely chiselled cherub head spandrels and is signed "Tho. Tampion Landini fecit." The movement has latched plates throughout and an outside locking wheel. The clock is contained in a simple walnut case; the door has shaped panels of burr-wood and a pendulum aperture. The hood has spirally-turned pilasters and a scroll cherub head cresting. It measures 7' 1" high, circa 1680. A copy of Tampion's rare equation table is pasted on the door. D

Figure 3. Figure 4.

46 Horological Times/February 1979 The first quarter pins of the Westminster chimes are QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS easily recognized, since they are placed on the barrel in a diag­ (continued from page 4 7) onal line, which plays four notes on a descending scale. Four other pins on the same descending diagonal line are used to In setting up the train of one of these modem clocks play the last bar of the third quarter. In setting up the pin the warning wheel should be positioned with its warning pin barrel to begin the first quarter, either one of these groups about 180° from the warning lever, but the exact position is may be used. not critical. The rest of the train may be assembled between plates without regard to synchronization. On the striking side, take up a little on the strike All of the modern chime clocks that I have seen have mainspring and let the train run until a point of the star wheel a selfcorrecting mechanism that automatically corrects the drops off the strike lifting lever. While holding the train from striking and chiming should it get out of step through letting turning, rotate the gathering pallet until its locking shoulder the clock run down, moving the hands too rapidly past a locks against the strike locking lever. With a hollow punch chiming or striking position, etc. This is accomplished by lightly drive on the pallet for a test run. Of course, if the strike having the chime train lock itself at the end of the third locks on a pin between the plates, this adjustment has already quarter either by the locking lever making a deeper lock than been taken care of before the plates were pinned together. ordinary, or by having a second lever ( selfcorrecting lever) Take up lightly on the chime mainspring. Turn the drop into place for a double lock. This occurs, as I say, at the hands for a check on both the chime and stn"ke. If necessary end of the third quarter, regardless of what the hands may make final adjustments wherever needed. To conclude, make show. And the train will remain locked until the hour, when it certain that all settings are secure. will clear itself. You asked for information on Seth Thomas chime Fixed to the back of the cannon pinon are four let­ clocks. The No. 124 has a locking plate, selfcorrecting mech­ off pins or lobes, which release the chiming on the hour and anism basically similar to the modem German types we have quarters. One of them is taller than the others, and it is only been describing. However, the No. 124 is an earlier model and this longer lobe that has sufficient height to unlock the chime has more of the controlling mechanism between plates rather train after it has been deep or double locked at the end of the than on the outside. third quarter. The assembly of let-off lobes and cannon pinion, incidentally, is usually friction fitted to the center Also, the synchronizing of the fourth and fifth wheels post, and before it is driven into place it must be turned so before the plates are pinned together is quite critical. The lock­ that the tall lobe will let off the first stroke of the hour as the ing-warning pin is on the face of the fifth wheel, while the self minute hand points to 12 o'clock. correcting pin is on the fourth wheel. At the end of the third On the striking side, note whether the train is locked quarter, the selfcorrecting lever drops down into the path of between plates by a pin in the locking wheel. If this is so, then this pin, although the actual locking at this time is done by the in setting up the strike train the star wheel must be so meshed regular locking lever intercepting the locking pin in the fifth with the fourth wheel that the strike lifting lever will have just wheel. Now, the fourth and fifth wheels must be so syn­ dropped from one of the star points as the train locks. chronized that when the train is released for the warning run at the next quarter, the correcting pin (fourth wheel) must But if the locking takes place outside the plates on a reach the correcting lever before the locking pin (fifth wheel) shoulder of the gathering pallet fitted on the extended upper reaches the locking lever. Otherwise, in the event the chiming pivot of the fourth wheel, then no synchronization ofany of the is out of step, the train will not be locked by the selfcor­ train wheels is necessary, except to see that the warning pin on recting lever and held until the next hour position. the fifth wheel is positioned roughly 180° from the warning The Seth Thomas Sonora chime clock has no self lever, as was done on the chiming train. correcting device at all and is quite primitive in design, having When the plates have been pinned together, and all a completely separate movement for the chimes that is con­ parts assembled on front and back plates, final adjustments nected to the going and striking movement only by a let-off for striking and chiming can be made. Turn the center arbor lever. until the let-off lever drops off the tall hour lobe of the let-off But a detailed description of this and other Seth cam. Turn the chime locking plate until the pin riding on its Thomas chimers is beyond the scope of a letter. What is hoped rim drops from the highest lobe and rests in the center of the is that enough of the basic principles applying to these mech­ hour notch. Tighten the set screw. Turn the chime side locking anisms has been given to enable you to analyze the different cam until its locking pin locks against the shoulder of the lock­ models yourself. The Modern Clock by T.R. Robinson, availa­ ing lever. Tighten the set ~crew. ble through the A WI Library, has a very good section on mod­ Now, on the back plate turn the driving wheel on the ern English chiming clocks, which are not too different from extended pivot of the third wheel until the pins on the chime the German. barrel are in a position to have just completed chiming the (Answer provided by James L. Tigner.) fourth quarter and are ready to begin the first quarter. Tighten the set screw.

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February 1979/Horological Times 47 In order to note the effect of moving several pairs THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER of screws, the net result is obtained by adding (algebraically) (continued from page 19) the tabular corrections for each movement of the screws. The timing weights and vernier timing weights should not be moved from the holes numbered one (1) and two (2) respec­ The chronometer balance #24 originally was "screwed up" as tively so the result of moving these is not included on the follows: table. 0.050" high pair screws in #5 holes Tables 2 and 3 are only useful after the hairspring or 0.050" high pair screws in #6 holes the balance wheel has been changed and are of little use to the 0.1 00" high pair screws in #7 holes repairman since these parts are difficult to come by. The tables 0.060" high pair screws in #8 holes are included for your general information, and should you 0.060" high pair screws in #9 holes have use for them, they will aid one in more quickly bringing After studying possible combinations of screws which the instrument to time. Both tables contemplate replacement may be moved, it is found that satisfactory results could be of screws and washers at the same holes from which they were achieved by moving the 0.1 00" high pair of screws from removed. Rough timing is accomplished by: #7 holes to #11 holes. See Table 1A. The table shows that the 1. Screw the large and vernier timing weights to a middle position and start the chronometer. 2. Count the balance oscillations for one or more Rim (stainless steel) minutes. The count should be 240 oscillations per minute. , Iffast or slow, remove the balance assembly. 3. Convert the error into minutes per day. Regulate by making the necessary screw and/or washer changes accord­ ing to Tables 2 and 3. 3 4. Poise thE; balance and replace the balance assembly. 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 until the instrument 4 times to within two minutes per day. Then bring to time with 3 the timing weights. 5 2 The isochronal test may be made anytime while the instrument is on test at 72"-°F or room temperature. The rate is the difference between the 12-hour rate and one-half the 24-hour rate.

Standard balance screws Day Error Rate

Timing weight------__.~ 5 38.60 - Vernier timing weight -----' 12 hrs 38.66 +0.06 6 38.72 +0.12 Dif. 12 hrs & Figure 3. Hamilton balance wheel with 24 holes. ~ 24 hr rate 0.00

"-(24 hr rate) = 0.06 - ( 12 hr rate) 0.06 - 0.00 correction to be expected from this move is +3.75 seconds to correct the observed error of -3.77 seconds. The move, as can be seen, would result in nearly zero temperature compensation A B error for this chronometer. APPROXIMATE LO­ APPROXIMATE LO­ CATION OF ZERO CATION OF ZERO Chronometer #987 was found to rate +3.06 seconds POINT WHEN COR­ POINT WHEN COR­ per day at 90°F and -1.93 seconds per day at 55°F, for an RECTION IS MADE RECTION IS MADE FOR A FAST RATE FOR A SLOW RATE error of +4.99 seconds. Chronometer balance #987 originally AT 1-1/STURNSOF AT 1-1/STURNSOF was "screwed up" as follows: MOTION. MOTION. 0.050" high pair screws in #5 holes 0.1 00" high pair screws in #6 holes 0.090" high pair screws in #10 holes 0.040" high pair screws in #11 holes 0.060" high pair screws in #12 holes After studying possible combinations of screw changes, it was found that the following changes could be made (See Table lB):

Screw height Correction 0.060" from #12 holes to #7 holes -3.28 seconds/day 0.090" from #10 holes to #8 holes -1.82 seconds/ day 0.040" from #11 holes to #12 holes -0.12 seconds/day

Thus there is a net correction of -4.98 to correct an error of +4.99 seconds. The above moves should result in nearly zero Figure 4. Rate corrections at 1-1/8 turns of motion for a temperature compensation error for #987. Hamilton chronometer.

48 Horological Times/February 1979 Table 1 . Table of Temperature Compensation Corrections for Hamilton Ship's Chronometer* Table 2. Hamilton's Screw Change Equivalents (for pairs of screws). Corresponding to Changes in Balance Screw Positions.

One Pair of Screws Moved: Head Height of Balance Screws - Measured in Inches SCREW CHANGE EQUIVALENTS Hole: Ha l<>: 0.120 0. 10.0 o.o9o·· 0.080 0.070•• 0.060 0 .050 0.040 (For Pairs of Screws) 12 to 11 -1.69 -1.41 -1.10 -0.79 -0.66 -0.53 -0.32 -0.12 12 lo 10 -3.55 -2.96 -2.55 -2.14 -1.90 -1.67 -1.27 -0.91 Approximate Approximate -4.99 -4.16 -3.67 -3.17 -2.85 -2.54 -2.00 -1.51 Head Height1 ln.* Minutes per Day -5.89 -4.91 -4.37 -3.82 -3.46 -3.09 -2.46 -1.89 :::: w 0.100 to 0.080 16 ...!1...!2.....1 -6.19 -5.16 -4.60 -4.04 -3.66 ®-3.28 -2.62 -2.02 !!...!2....L •1.69 •1.41 •1.10 •0. 79 •0.66 •0.53 •0.32 ~ 0.100 to 0.060 34 11 to 10 or 3 to 4 -1.86 -1.55 -1.45 ·1.35 -1.24 -1.14 -0.95 -0.79 0.100 to 0.050 43 11 to 9 0 3 to 5 -3.30 -2.75 -2.57 -2.38 -2.20 -2.01 -1.68 -1.39 11 to 8 3 to 6 -4.20 -3.50 -3.26 -3.03 -2.80 -2.56 -2.14 -I. 77 0.100 to 0.040 50 11 to 7 -4.50 -3.75 -3.50 -3.25 -3.00 -2.75 -2.30 -1.90 0.080 to 0.060 16 10 to 12 +3.55 •2.96 +2.55 •2.14 +1.90 •1.67 +1.27 +0.91 0.080 to 0.050 25 10 to 11 o r 4 to 3 +1.86 +1.55 •1.45 •1.35 •1.24 •1.14 +0.95 +0.79 10 to o r 4 to 5 -1.44 -1.20 -1.11 -1.03 -0.95 -0.87 -0.73 -0.60 0.080 to 0.040 34 .!.!!..!.Q_!\ or 4 to 6 -2.34 -1.9' -1.68 -1.55 ~ -1.42 -1.19 -0.98 0.060 to 0.050 6 10 to 7 -2.64 -2.20 -2.05 -1.90 -I. 76 -1.61 -1.35 -1.11

9 to 12 •4.99 +4.16 •3.67 +3.17 +2.86 +2.54 •2.00 ·1.51 0.060 to 0.040 13 9 to 11 or 5 to 3 •3.30 •2. 75 •2.57 +2.38 +2.20 +2.01 +1.68 •1.39 0.050 to 0.040 7 9 to 10 or 5 to 4 •1.44 •1.20 •1.11 +1.03 •0.95 •0.87 ... o. 73 +0.60 9 to 8 or 5 to 6 -0.90 -0.75 -0.70 -0.65 -0.60 -0.55 -0.46 -0.38 9 to 7 -1.26 -1.01 -0.96 -0.87 -0.80 -0.74 -0.62 -0.51

8 to 12 •5.89 •4.91 +4.37 +3.82 •3.46 .3.09 +2.46 +1.89 8 to 11 or 6 to 3 •4.20 +3.50 +3.26 +3.03 -2.80 •2.56 +2.14 +1.77 8 to 10 or 6 to 4 •2.34 +1.95 +1.82 +1.68 •1.55 •1.42 +1.19 +0.98 Table 3. Hamilton's Washer Change Equivalents (for 8 to 9 or 6 to 5 •0.90 +0.75 •0.70 +0.65 •0.60 +0.55 +0.46 +0.38 pairs of washers). 8 to 7 -0.31 -0.26 -0.24 -0.22 -0.21 -0.19 -0.16 -0.13 WASHER CHANGE EQUIVALENTS 7to1 ~ -6.19 +5.16 +4.60 •4.04 +3.66 +3.28 +2.62 +2.02 (For Pairs of Washers) .:!.12....!.... A +4.50 ®•3.75 +3.50 +3.25 -3.00 +2.75 -2.30 +1.90 *Part number in catalog. Washer Daily 7 to 10 +2.64 +2.20 +2.~5 +1.90 +I. 76 +1.35 +1.11 +1.61 Thickness Time Effect Difference Combinations 7 to 9 +1.26 +1.01 +0.96 +0.87 +0.80 +0.74 +0.62 +0.51 Inches• Min Sec Min Sec Inches Min Sec 7 to B +0.31 +0.26 +0.24 +0.22 •0.21 +0.19 +0.16 +0.13 0.002 I 10 0.002 + 0.003 3 4 44 *Corrections are shown in seconds per day. Plus corrections 0.003 I 54 0.002 + 0.004 4 28 compensate for minus rates, and vice versa. Plus corrections: 1 24 the rate at 9 0 F. compared with that at 55 F. is faster after 0.004 3 18 0.003 + 0.004 5 12 l 6 the screw change than before. 0.006 4 24 0.002 + 0.006 5 34 2 6 **Equivalent screw heights for 0 .0 9 0 in. and 0.0 70 in. are 0.008 6 30 0.003 + 0.006 6 18 2 obtained by screw and washer combinations. See Tables 2 0.010 8 30 0.002 + 0.008 7 40 and 3.

The rates were recorded at each of these motions. The correction is generally obtained by setting up or letting The tolerance was 1.5 seconds between 1 1/8 and 1 1/2 turns, down the mainspring-making the motive force stronger or preferably faster at 1 1/8 turns. weaker and thereby changing the balance motion. If the chronometer was found to operate outside the On most of the Hamiltons tested at the Naval Ob­ 1.5 tolerance, corrections were made by shifting the hair­ servatory the isochronal error was found '')hardly ever exceed spring, thereby changing the position of the impulse jewel a few hundredths of a second. In fact, on many of those tested when the balance is at rest. Figure 4 shows how the adjust­ over a range of balance motion from approximately three­ ment is done. In A if the chronometer rate were faster at fourths to one and a half turns-seldom showed an isochronal 1 1/8 turns than 1 1/2 turns, the hairspring was turned slightly error exceeding one second, a very remarkable feat. in a counterclockwise direction. If in B the chronometer was In testing and adjusting the Hamilton for isochronism, found to be slower at 1 1/8 turns than at 1 1/2 turns, the the balance motion was observed at 1 1/8, 1 1/4, 1 3/8, and hairspring collet was turned slightly in a clockwise direction. 1 1/2 turns. These motions were obtained by varying the Next month, we will discuss setting up the English or power by either setting up or letting down the mainspring. Earnshaw type of detent escapement. D

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February 1979/Horological Times 49 NEWS IN THE TRADE (continued from page 43)

steam cleaner in the industry; the Vibro­ graf GD-50 Gradoscop, for instant measurement of amplitude on all balance wheel watches; the Cyclotest Auto­ matic Winder for positional testing of all watches, and for winding and testing of automatic watches. For the future, McClancy notes that Portescap will continue to look for areas in which they can better serve their customers, such as was accomplished with Sufficient inventory levels are maintained at all times at the distribution arrangement worked out Portescap, with a value level of around $500,000 for new for V ARTAchron batteries. equipment and about $250,000 for spare parts. Conference facilities also double as a demonstration room, A well planned inventory of VARTAchron watch batteries with all Vibrograf equipment in working order. At this meet­ is kept secure under careful temperature and humidity ing, Robert McCiancy V.P. & General Manager (left) and control. This assures customers of the longest possible Joe Presti, Operations Manager (center), go over advertising shelf·life. plans with Sol Stern, President of Portescap's advertising agency. Keeping track of a field sales force of 13 and a network of ten service stations is no simple task. At Portescap it takes a Robert McCiancy, Vice President & General Manager, Portes­ staff of four administrative secretaries to keep it moving cap U.S. Vibrograf Machine Division, juggles pipe, phone, smoothly. coffee, and paperwork on a typical day.

GEORGE O'BRIEN FORMS OWN HOME States, Europe and the Far East. Among his major innovations FURNISHINGS/DECORATIVE were the introduction of Elsa Peretti to Tiffany, development ARTS/DESIGN FIRM of the highly successful Drabware dinnerware by Wedgewood, and the designing of the distinctive "T" clip pen and Tiffany George O'Brien, vice-president and design director at Tiffany lighter. In addition, he designed and supervised photography, & Co. for the past 12 years, has opened his own firm, George as well as developed copy for ads and the annual Tiffany O'Brien Design Consultants, at 166 East 63 Street, New York. "Blue Book" catalogue. He was also engaged in the design of "The new company will specialize in design and innovative interior store displays-including table settings in development in the fields of decorative arts and home fur­ modern and antique home furnishings environments. nishings- from inception to manufacturing and retail presenta­ tion,' stated Mr. O'Brien. He added that the company will Prior to joining Tiffany, Mr. O'Brien had been Editor design and produce quality catalogues and provide complete of Home News for the New York Times, Modern Living product photography services for its clients, as well. Editor of Playboy, Assistant Editor of Home Living at Look While at Tiffany, Mr. O'Brien was responsible for Magazine, and had written The New York Times Book of many very successful product innovations as head of design. Design and Decoration, published by Straus and Giroux. These spanned the product categories of jewelry, watches, He also contributes articles regularly on home furnishings clocks, silver, china, crystal and stationery in the United and design trends for numerous major magazines.

50 Horological Times/February 1979 JACOBY-BENDER ELECTS NEW MANAGEMENT TEAM

Jacoby-Bender, Inc., one of the coun­ try's foremost manufacturers of fine men's and women's jewelry and watch attachments, announced today the naming of a new executive team to direct the company's activities. Elected to Chairman of the Board was Leonard Klaver, formerly President, who brings to his new position 25 years of experience at Jacoby-Bender where he has served in executive sales and production positions. Elected President and Chief Leonard Klaver Paul Horowitz Jerry Hahn, Sr. V.P. Executive Officer is Paul Horowitz, for­ Chairman of the Board President, C.E.O. Advertising and Merchandising merly Executive Vice President in charge of sales and marketing. Mr. Horowitz joined Jacoby-Bender in 1966. Elected Senior Vice President in charge of Advertising and Merchandising is Jerry Hahn, who for the past two dec­ ades has guided the company's adver­ tising, packaging and display programs. Bob Siegel, formerly South Eastern Regional Sales Manager, has been named National Sales Manager. Mr. Siegel brings close to 30 years of sales experi­ ence to his new managerial position and as one of the best known and most ex­ perienced executives in the jewelry in­ dustry, Mr. Siegel is expected to add a new degree of personalized selling to J a­ Hugh D. Sherman coby-Bender's direct selling sales force. The new executive line-up at Jacoby-Bender reflects a streamlined management team that combines youth with the Risk and Insurance Management and experience. The company's new BULOV A ELECTS VICE So~iety of New York. marketing plan of selling direct to the PRESIDENT ' He resides with his family in retail jeweler was initiated and imple-. East Meadow, N.Y. mented by this same team. In their new capacities, a more vigorous marketing and merchandising plan wil,l be directed Isidore Roberts, 58, who first joined toward developing new products and Bulova Watch Company, Inc., (NYSE) in promotions for the retail jewelers with 1941, has been elected vice president­ SHERMAN PROMOTED AT ~onstant emphasis on quality, originality, credit of the company by the board of HAMILTON and service. directors. "Because of his wide experience Mr. Hugh D. Shen;nan has been promoted at Bulova, Mr. Roberts is eminently to General Manager, Clock Division, at RJA REACHES OUT qualified for his new responsibilities," Hamilton Watch Co., J. Paul Zanowski, Sol E. Flick, chief executive officer, the company's Executive Vice President, As part of its expanded program to in­ commented. has announced. Mr. Sherman moves into his crease communications with its mem­ Mr. Roberts, a graduate of the new position from Director of Product bers across the country, RJA's Executive City College of New York, will con­ Committee met in Phoenix recently dur­ tinue to serve as assistant treasurer and Manag~ent-Clocks with responsibility for short and long term clock marketing ing the Arizona Jewelers Association will be responsible to Seymour H. Lesser strategtes. 1978 Convention. who was recently elected vice presi­ Mr. Zanowski reported that Mr. "The purpose of scheduling our dent-finance and treasurer. Previously, Sherman's new responsibilities encompass meeting 'at that particular time and place," Roberts was for many years Bulova's clock factory operation, purchasing, quali­ comments RJA Chairman Michael D. general credit manager working directly ty control. and product management. Roman, "was to give members of the with the company's 20,000 retail jewelers Sherman joined Hamilton in Committee a chance to meet with and in the United States. listen to the ideas of members at a local 1974 as Manager of Market Research level. We plan to create many more such During World War II, Mr. Roberts after receiving his MBA degree from "grass roots" communications on an served for more than five years in the Northeastern University, Boston. In 19 76 informal basis in order to give RJA great­ U.S. Air Force, principally with the 9th he was appointed Director of Market er individual input than ever before. This Air Force in Europe. He is a member of Research, and in 1977 became Director plan will keep RJA posted on what's the Jewelry Division of the New York of Product Management-Clocks at Ham­ on the local jeweler's mind, and will help Credit Group and of the National As­ ilton, the position he held until his us help every member." sociation of Credit Men, and is affiliated, recent appointment. 0

Febmary 1979/Horological Times 51 line, includes seven new timepieces for the active man. What­ ever the activity-sailing or swimming-the new Seiko sport timepieces can withstand it. All are water-tested to 100 m (300 ft) and feature instant day/date calendars, Seiko's ex­ clusive "Hardlex" mar-resist crystals; luminous hands and NEW PRODUCTS markers, and screw-type locking crowns. Among the leading models in this new series are FJ109M and mate FJ110M. Bold, contemporary styling-with 10 stimulated rivets set around the bezel-is stainless steel model FJ109M, with white dial, at $225. At $275, its counterpart, model FJ110M, has a SEIKO INTRODUCES 29 MEN'S ANALOG yellow bezel, two-tone adjustable bracelet, and gilt dial. QUARTZ WATCHES Another attractive look is found with model FJ121 M. It features bold, easy-to-read, full numerals, on a black dial. Twenty-nine new high quality analog quartz watches for men At $185, it also offers an adjustable matching bracelet. are among Seiko's largest introduction of quartz watches in Three of the new models in the "FG" series of ultra­ its history. thin dress timepieces have water-resistant cases. Included are Twenty-four of these models can run for five years models FG019M, in stainless steel, with a white textured dial, without battery replacement, resulting from Seiko's achieve­ at $225, and FG022M, in yellow top/stainless steel, with a ment in the manufacture of a quartz watch movement which brown textured dial, at $275. Both also have adjustable sharply decreases the battery energy-level required. matching bracelets. Model FG016M, also water-tested to Seven are part of a new Seiko "Sports 100" series, 100 ft, features a radiant gilt dial set in a beautiful matching designed especially for the rugged active lifestyles of today's case and bracelet. It retails at $295. Two non-water resistant American men. The additional five analog watches are from models in this series are models FG014, in yellow top/stainless Seiko's "FG" series of ultra-thin day/date quartz timepieces. steel back case, with gilt dial and brown Iizard strap, at $195, The suggested retail prices for this "FG" group range from and model FG021, in stainless steel, with interesting blue pat­ $175 to $295. tern dial and black lizard strap at $175. The 5-year battery life analog quartz watches in the All of the new Seiko timepieces are available for im­ "FJ" and "FK" series offer unique multi-shaped cases and mediate delivery through Seiko's nationwide network of crystals, and colorful dials. Masterpieces of styling and design distributors. are embodied in models FK051 M and FK052M. Both time­ pieces have eight decorative mountings on the bezel and fea­ ture adjustable matching bracelets. In addition, model FK- 051M has a blue-gray dial, and is $195; and model FK052M, in yellow top/stainless steel back case, with a rich deep red SWESTINTRODUCESJEWELRY dial , and adjustable bracelet, retails at $250. MARKING PLIERS

Swest, Inc. has added to its line of products for the jeweler a jewelry stamping plier which makes karat stamping a quick and easy process. The plier has 4 interchangeable dies-1 OK, 14K, 18K andSterling-which slip into the lower jaw. The sta':'p imprints the metal with surprisingly little pressure, and the handy tooi eliminates the need for hammers and punches or large bench-top stamping tools. For further information and price contact Swest, Inc., 10803 Composite Drive, Dallas, Texas 75220, 431 \sam Road, San Antonio 78216 or 1725 Victory Boulevard, Glendale, California 91201.

FG019M FK051M

A new dimension has been added to the "FJ" series via faceted crystal models FJ107M and FJ108M. Model FJ- 107M, in stainless steel , with blue dial, will retail at $185. Its mate, FJ108M, in yellow top/stainless steel, with brown dial, is priced at $235. Both models feature adjustable matching bracelets.

The newly-introduced "Sports 100" series-designed to expand the Seiko 5-year battery life analog quartz watch

52 Horological Times/Febrnary 1979 For Sale-Timing Machines, Watchmaster Timers Vibrograf Timers. Factory rebuilt. All ma­ chines guaranteed. Terms available. Also CLASSIFIED ADS available Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Machines. Write Vibrograf sales representative Robert Regulations and Rates Swensgard, 2630-A Jett Hill Road, New Rich­ mond, Ohio 45157. Or phone (513) 553-2113. Ads are payable in advance $.35 per word, $.45 per word in bold type. Ads are not Territory: Southern Indiana, Kentucky, Michi­ commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price gan, Ohio, Tennesee, and West Virginia. lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance. SITUATIONS WANTED I HOROLOGICAL TIMES; P. 0. Box 11011; Cincinnati, Ohio 45211; (513) 661-3838 I January graduate, Bulova School of Watch­ making (also C.A.T.) seeks position repairing watches in North Jersey or N.Y.C. Please contact Steven Sarafconn, 210 Howland Ave., ~~----T_n_E__ T_R_A_o_E_sM __ A_N __ --~1 L(______F_o_R __ s_A_L_E------~' Paramus, N.J. 07652 (201) 845-6929.

Reprint, Kendrick & Davis Co.'s, 1910 catalog Electronic Watch Repair. We repair ALL Experienced watchmaker seeking employment section of "Staking Tools & How to Use Electronic Watches, solid state, step motor, in store or trade shop. Watch school graduate, Them," 100 pages with detailed line drawings, tuning fork, etc., for the trade. Latest test CMW and licensed in the State of Kentucky. $3.50 copy, postpaid. R & S Company, Box equipment. Darrell Archer Electronics, 4240 Have good electronic knowledge and possess 31, Lebanon, N.H. 03766. E. Sternberg Rd., Fruitport, Mich. 49415. own tools. Would prefer Greater Cincinnati area but will consider relocation elsewhere. In­ Derbyshire Webster-Whitcomb (WW) 12" Lathe. Pulsar Watch Repairs. Complete repairs on all terested parties can reply c/o Horological Just completely factory restored including L.E.D. Pulsars except calculators. Leo G. Times, Dept. SW201, P.O. Box 11011, Cin­ renickeling at cost of $500.00. Includes new cinnati, Ohio 45 211. Kozlowski, 55 E. Washington Street, Chicago, Boley hardwood collet box, 10 collets, 2 II. 60602, 312-236-8052. brasses, 2 centers. Current new price $1,235.00. Sell for $650.00 firm. Emery Brittenham, 7250 Wheels, pinions, barrels or whatever, repaired Teller Street, Arvada, Co. 80003. (303-421 WANTED TO BUY or made new. Repivot arbors. Parts made to -6844 eves). I I order. Send sample for free estimate. On all Wanted: American, foreign high grade pocket watch parts, inquire first. Complete repair shop, tools and materials of watches or movements. Will buy individually Brass, rod & tubing cut to your deceased watchmaker. Selling as unit. Perfect or quantity. Describe condition and price. length. Small orders welcome. SASE for price way to get a total workshop at a low price. Dick Ziebell, P.O. Box 427, Ipswich, Mass. list. Ken Leeseberg, Ken Way Inc., 311 Chest­ Only $1,495.00. Write Clocks, 101 N. Colum­ 01938, 617-356-5756. nut St., Addison, Illinois 60101. bus St., Alexandria, Va. 22314. Cash for Vol. I, No. I of this magazine. Ken DIAMONDS-Direct from cutter. GUARAN­ Law, P.O. Box 2145, Prescott, Az 86302. Trade Watch Repair. First quality work at TEED-lowest price-best quality anywhere. reasonable prices. Send for price list: Tick Send for free price list. FL DIAMOND COM­ WANTED TO BUY: GOLD, DIAMONUS, Shop, P.O. Box 793, Litchfield, MN 55355. PANY, 800 17th Avenue West, Bradenton, WATCH CASES (any condition), jewelry, scrap FL 33505. gold, school rings, gold coins, watches, plati­ Trade work wanted. I have the new Ultrasonic num, silver, silver coins, etc. Ship insured/ Watch Cleaner and Vibrograf timer. 36 years ESEMBL-0-GRAF LIBRARY in 28 volumes, registered mail. Check by return mail. Shipment at the bench on watches. Clayton Toombs, Pittsburgh, 1955. Chronograph repairing is held intact for your acceptance. THE RARE 53 West Ave., Arkport, New York 14807. made easy by Step-By-Step procedure. Each METALS MINT, 800 17th Avenue West, small step of removing and replacing each part Bradenton, FL 33505. and making adjustments is clearly illustrated. IMMEDIATE CASH for precious metal scrap. COMPLETE WATCH REPAIR SERVICE. No concentrated s1udy is necessary. Write Highest prices for bench sweeps, buttons and Expanded latest equipped shop. Prices on EOG, PO Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. sprues, watch and optical scrap, etc. Request request. HOWELL WATCH REPAIR, 25 East Refining Purchase Schedule. Dept. A4, SWEST, 12th, Room 301, Kansas City, MO 64106. Metal Cutting Lathes, Bench Mills, Drillpresses, INC., 10803 Composite Drive, Dallas, Texas (816) 421-7206. Unimats, Maximats, Catalog L, $1.00. Wood­ 75220. turning Machinery, Lathes, Planers, Band­ saws, Combination machines. Catalog , $1.00. Pearl and Bead Restringing. All types. Fast ser­ Precision Tools, Inch or Metric, Aluminum, MISCELLANEOUS vice. Jean A. Gruenig, P .0. Box 12007, Colum­ Brass, Steel, all shapes. Miniature Screws, Taps, bus, Ohio 43212. I Drills, Saws, Collets. Catalog T, $1.00. Camp­ I Digital Watch Service Training. Zantech, Inc. bell Tools, 1424 Barclay, Springfield, 0. 45505. offers training and instruments for servicing all Digital Watch Repair. Specialists in digital types of digital watches. Course includes watch repair for the trade. Eight years of ex­ Oockmakers' Buying Guide. New 80-page Sec­ diagnosis of watch malfunctions and repair perience in digital watch design and service. ond Edition lists over 1000 spare par'ts and methods, including techniques in wire bond Zantech, Inc., 13 Greentree Rd., Trenton, repair services available from over 400 sup­ repairs using silver epoxy. Louis A. Zanoni, N.J. 08619 (609) 586-5088. pliers. $5 postpaid. 30-day satisfaction or Zantech, Inc., 13 Greentree Rd., Trenton, N.J. refund. Box 171-T, Bronxville, NY 10708. 08619 (609) 586-5088.

February 1979/Horo/ogical Times 53 ======c

______.....,o_11TES To REMEMBER~------======c FEBRUARY 2-3-JC-K/MGI lnentory Management & Control Seminar, Atlanta, Georgia. 14-23-RJA-NYU, 39th Annual Program in Retail Jewelry Store Management, NYU, New York, New York. 4-6-Tampa Gift, Jewelry & Housewares Show, Curtis Hixon Convention Hall, Tampa,Fiorida. 16-17-JC-K/MGI Sales Management & Motivation Seminar, Dallas, Texas. 4-7-Southern Jewelry & Gift Show, Hyatt Regency Atlanta, Atlanta, Georgia. 18-20-Fourth Cleveland Gift Show, Engineering & Scientific 7-8-JC-K/MGI Financial Management Seminar, New York, Center, Cleveland, Ohio. New York. 18-23-Dallas Spring Gift, Jewelry & Housewares Show, 9-1 0-JC-K/MG I Sales Management & Motivation Seminar, Dallas Market Center, Dallas, Texas. New York, New York. 24-25-Minnesota Retail Jewelers Association 75th Annual 11-13-Western Spring Jewelry Show, The Showplace, San Convention & Upper Midwest Jewelers Trade Show, Francisco, California. Radisson South Hotel, Bloomington, Minnesota.

11-14-RJA Spring International Jewelry Trade Show & Con­ 25-27-Tenth Wisconsin Gift Show, Red Carpet Expo, Mil­ ference, Americana & New York Hilton Hotels, New waukee, Wisconsin. York, New York. 25-March 2-New York Gift Show, New York Sheraton 14-15-JC-K/MGI Inventory Management & Control Seminar, Hotel & New York Coliseum, New York, New York. Dallas, Texas.

Saving yaur HOROLOGICAL TIMES® ' Well~ if yau are~~~

we have the answer for protecting and organizing your magazines. This leather-look binder holds 12 issues (that's one volume) and is "an attractive addition to any library, office or home. No longer will you have to search for that March '77 issue, or wonder if the January '78 went out the door via the last paper drive. All issues can be inserted as you receive them. If you are interested in organization, send a check or money order in the amount of $6.95 to: HT BINDERS P.O. BOX 11011 CINCINNATI, OHIO 45211 Allow 3 weeks for handling and delivery.

54 Horological Times/February 1979 MARCH 4-6-Eighth Michigan Gift Show, Long's Convention Center, AWl Lansing, Michigan. Bench 11-13-Third Ohio State Jewelry Show, Neil House Hotel Ballroom, Columbus, Ohio. Courses

11-13-97th Ohio State Gift Show, Veterans Memorial Bldg., Columbus, Ohio.

16-19-California Jewelers Association Annual Convention, DATE COURSE LOCATION Hotel Coronado, Coronado, California.

19-24-Discovery Week, JC-K/MGI Seminars on Advertising & Sales Promotion, Inventory Management & Control, February 4, 1979 D Phoenix. AZ Sales Management, Sarasota, Florida. February 11, 1979 G Tucson, AZ February 12, 1979 G Albuquerque, NM APRIL February 18, 1979 D Fort Lauderdale, FL February 25, 1979 E 3-4-JC-K/MG I Advertising/Sales Promotion Seminar, San Antonio, TX Washington, D.C. February 25, 1979 G Chicago, IL

7-1 0-American Gem Society Conclave, Shoreham Hotel, Washington, D.C.

22-24-Traverse City Gift & Souvenir Show, Skateworld Con­ vention Center, Traverse City, Michigan. March 4, 1979 G Pittsburgh, PA March 4, 1979 F Atlanta, GA 22-25-lsrael Jewellery & Giftware Fair, Hilton Hotel, Tel Aviv, Israel. March 4, 1979 D Norfolk, VA March 11, 1979 E Richmond, VA 27-28-JC-K/MGI Financial Management Seminar, Chicago, March 11, 1979 c Decatur, AL Illinois. March 11, 1979 G Washington, DC March 11,1979 F Boise, Idaho 28-29-Watchmakers Association of Ohio, Quarterly Board March 18, 1979 F Cambridge, OH Meeting, Marriott Inn, Cleveland, Ohio. March 18, 1979 D Indianapolis, IN 29-30-JC-K/MGI Advertising & Sales Promotion Seminar, Chicago, Illinois.

April1, 1979 DON'T GET LEFT BEHIND!!! E Omaha, NE April 1, 1979 Join us aboard the D Dallas, 'T'X April 22, 1979 D Baltimore, MlJ Horological Tour April 22, 1979 c Minneapolis, MN to Europe April22, 1979 G Iowa Call AWl Central (513-661-3838) today for details. April 29, 1979 D Clare, MI April 29, 1979 E Quincy, IL

LEGEND May 6, 1979 E Perryburg, OH May 6, 1979 D Portland, OR Symbol Course Usual Instructor May 6, 1979 F St. Louis, OR May 6, 1979 c Boston, MA A Reading Meters J. Jaeger May 6, 1979 G Denver, CO c Citizen J. Broughton May 20, 1979 D Okmulgee, OK D Seiko L. Smith May 20, 1979 F Kansas City;, KS E Intro. Solid State R. Nelson F Bulova SMQ H.Opp Additional programs will be scheduled as requests are G ESA W. Biederman received and new programs are developed.

February 1979/Horological Times 55 Rdverti5et5' Index KANSAS CITY SCHOOL OF WATCHMAKING .. 40 AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE ..30, 31 KEYSTONE SALES ...... 17 KIENZLE TIME CORP ...... 37 B.B. CRYSTAL ...... • ...... 41 KILB AND CO ...... 37 J. BOREL GROUP ...... 15 KILGORE COLLEGE ...... 17 BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL .....••...... 37 BULOVA ...... ••...... 35 S. LA ROSE ...... 19, 39, 45, 47,49

CAS-KER CO ...... Inside Front Cover, 31 MARSHALL-SWARTCHILD CO ...... 3 CITIZEN WATCH COMPANY OF AMERICA .....5 L.A. CLARK CO ...... •...... •...12 NELSON & NELSON, INC ...... 12 NEST CO ...... 13, 41 DENVER DIAL ...... 17 NIAGARA JEWELRY SUPPLY CORP ...... 31 C. DVORKIN AND CO ...... •.25 PARIS TEXAS COLLEGE ...... 30 ESSLINGER AND CO ...... 17, 27 PARKLAND COLLEGE ...... 25 EUROPEAN WATCH, CLOCK AND JEWELRY PORTESCAP, U.S •...... Inside Back Cover FAIR 1979 ...... 9 EWING BROTHERS ...... 21 SEIKO ...... 7 SWEST, INC ...... 13 GEM CITY COLLEGE ...... 40 E & J SWIGART CO ...... Outside Back Cover GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA .... 11 THE GOULD CO ...... 34 TWIN CITY WATCH SUPPLY CO ...... 30 GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE ...•..•...... 37 I. WIDESS & SONS ...... 25 JENSEN TOOL ...... 40 JEWELMONT CORP ...... Outside Back Cover ZANTECH, INC ...... •...... 43 ~--J~i(l ___ Fi---rfEW--m E-mEE-~-, --, I Date ______I NEW MEMBER : I I Name ------I Street ------HOROLOGICAL TIMES included with I membership I City/State

Zip SUBMITTED BY: Payment enclosed for: Name ______One year regular membership $30.00 One year student membership $10.00 Street ------City/State AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE Zip P.O. Box 11011 Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 School L------56 Horological Times/February 1979 Introducing The Incredible Portescap Vibrograf M-80 Digital Quartz Analyzer!

"THE ULTIMATE TIMER FOR TESTING ELECTRONIC AND ELECTRIC WATCHES:'

The Vibrograf M-80 is an excellent investment. TESTS ALL KNOWN FREQUENCIES OF INTEGRATED SOLID STATE CIRCUITS. Its technology is so far advanced that it is at WATCHES. They insure long, trouble-free life, ease and the outer limits of the state of the art of Measures the accuracy of quartz base accuracy of operation. testing watches today. movements employing digital LED or LCD displays, with analog stepper motor ISMQI or TEMPERATURE COMPENSATED Its accuracy is many times greater than tuning fork. Tests the accuracy of all tuning COMPONENTS. Maintains the Vibrograf "M-80" quartz that of the most sophisticated quartz watches fork and conventional balance wheel watches now being made. IM-80 crystal standard crystal at precise frequency. The quartz crystal as well. oscillates over 8 million times per second to is 8.64 MHZ with a degree of accuracy of give the M-80 astonishing accuracy.) 1x10-7. Yet its push button efficiency and easily A SMALL UNIT FOR A BIG JOB! readable display screen make it amazingly The easy-to-care-for Vibrograf "M-80" is simple for you or any of your personnel to conveniently compact. The all-metal cabinet operate. measures only 9~" wide, 4" high, 8~" deep. And for viewing ease, there's a built-in tilt L stand . + . Lln _7 AN EXCELLENT INVESTMENT! I UNIQUE MICROPHONE HOLDER The "M-80" technology is so far advanced sec/day ELIMINATES SPECIAL PROBES AND that it will prove to be the only quartz timing ITS THIS EASY! ATTACHMENTS. machine you'll ever need. Two year guarantee. Press the matching button on the "M-80" The Vibrograf "M-80" microphone for the type of watch or clock to be incorporates capacitive coupling capability for Portescap U.S. measured. Position the watch on the unique picking up radio signals of quartz crystals. Its microphone holder. Check the display screen to inductive coupling capability will monitor the VIBROGRAF MACHINE DIVISION determine the plus or minus rate in seconds magnetic field produced by the indexing of 6 Ohio Drive West, Lake Success, New York 11040 (516) 437-8700 per day. The "M-80" is capable of measuring stepper motors in analog and tuning fork errors as small as 1!10Dth 1.011 of a second per watches. And its acoustic crystal will pick up day for all quartz watches. conventional balance wheel movements. incabloc®O WHY WAIT ..... We've got the ... (SEIKO] parts you want in stock ....

JEWELMONT®.. ~ CORPORATION • _I Box 1404 Minneapolis, MN 55440 Call Toll Free 800-328-0614

NOW IN ITS lOOTH YEAR ... QUEEN CITY ••• the E. & J. Swigart Company has, since its founding in 1879, been one of the largest of pure SEMINARS material houses in the continental United States, offering Now in its sixth year, and with attendees over the full lines of Swiss and American watch materials and 800 mark, we are currently sponsoring in a sepa­ batteries, including genuine materials from such factories rate location at 34 West 6th Street in Cincinnati, as Seiko, Citizens, Bulova, Girard Perregaux, Omega, five day seminars in jewelry making and repair. longines, Wyler, Zodiac, Rolex, Hamilton, Elgin and other Equipment used is the most modem available. popular brands. Seminars are as follows:

We also carry full lines of tools and supplies for the jeweler 1. A primary five day class in ring sizing, assem­ and watchmaker, as well as regular and jewelry findings, bling heads and shanks, prong rebuilding, stone clock materials, watch glass, bands and straps, optical setting, plating, and related functions. Classes are : goods, packaging supplies, tags, job envelopes, and bags, limited to six to permit personalized instruction. imprinted on our own presses. Findings used are 14K die struck. The majority of our sixty-six employees have been with us 2. Five days of advanced jewelry work for those for periods of twenty years or more, giving us an expertise who have attended the primary seminar. which is unique in a complex and highly technical business. We invite you to try our stocks and service. 3. Five day seminars in casting rings, pins, and pendants by the lost wax process. Wax modeling, Catalogue and Ordering Material Available on Request carving, and design.

THE E. & J. SWIGART COMPANY WRITE FOR BROCHURE 34 West 6th Street Cincinnati, Ohio 45202 (513) 721-1427 The E. & J. Swigart Co.