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Behind the Scenes

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cartographer. Special thanks (and nerdy hugs) OUR READERS to Irene Fernandez, for the loan of the Mac- Many thanks to the travellers who used book (and the comics) after the robbery and the last edition and wrote to us with for being generally awesome, along with Alice helpful hints, useful advice and interesting Clements. Finally, as always, thanks and love to anecdotes: Charlene Trestrail, Charlotte Sandes, Chris- Robyn, without whom I’d never have to got to tian Garcia, Eduardo Gallo, Emma Dagostino, , or very far at all. Kit Withers, Luigi Zeccardo, Mark Veale, Patti Tamara Sheward Elliott, Peter Biggs, Peter Felker, Scott Walton, William Leung A shower of hibiscuses and a whopping vinaka vakalevu to the indomitable and all-out wonderful Miri Sau, and to Lailanie Burnes, AUTHOR THANKS Kalo Baravilala, Michelle and Gary at Stoney Creek, Alex at Coconut Beach (we’ll pack the Paul Clammer rakija next time), Finau Bavadra, Tupou Moe- In Suva, vinaka vakalevu to Matt Capper of ofo, Rosie Titifanue, Bart at JMC in Savusavu, Talanoa Treks, Elia Nakoro at the Fiji Museum, the lovely Paulina (and Elizabeth!) at Bibi’s, and Merewalesi Nailatikau for some useful Kit Withers and the extraordinarily helpful and cultural insights. In Kadavu, thanks to Jeanne resourceful Viola Koch at Dolphin Bay. Fran- Maillard. At LP, Tasmin Waby was an under- gipanis and South Sea smooches to my two standing editor, and Diana Von Holdt a great crazy coconuts, Dušan and Masha. 243 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System

Sciences, 11, 163344. SCENES THE BEHIND

Cover photograph: Hawksbill turtle, . Dave Fleetham/Getty Images ©

Jealous. This guidebook was Assisting Editors Melanie THIS BOOK produced by the following: Dankel, Victoria Harrison, Amy This 10th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Tasmin Karafin, Jeanette Wall Planet’s Fiji guidebook was Waby Cover Researcher Naomi researched and written by Product Editors Grace Dobell, Parker Paul Clammer and Tamara Jenna Myers, Alison Ridgway, Thanks to Liz Heynes, David Sheward. The previous edition Amanda Williamson Hodges, Andi Jones, Lauren was written by Dean Starnes, Senior Cartographer Diana Keith, Karyn Noble, Kirsten Celeste Brash and Virginia Von Holdt Rawlings, Dianne Schallmeiner, Angela Tinson Book Designer Mazzy Prinsep ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 244

Index

A birds 207, 13 caves culture 11, 96, 182, 195, Abaca 69-70 collared lory 32, 13 Sawa-i-Lau 11, 137, 11 211-18 accommodation 28, 31, 42, frigatebird 72 Snake God Cave 102-3 currency 16 222, 223, see also Kadavu 183 cell phones 16, 227 customs regulations 110, 160, 222-3, 230 individual locations silktail 161 charter services 231 cycling 231 language 236 birdwatching 13, 20, 32, 207 Chaudhry, Mahendra 204 Levuka 140 action sports 32 Kadavu 183 children, travel with 18, Nadi 57-8 activities 32-4, see also 169 35, 41-4 individual activities blackbirding 200-1 57 Adi Senikau 22 Bligh, Captain William Christianity 198-9 D air travel 229-30, 230-1 120, 197 churches & cathedrals dance 215-16 airlines 229, 230-1 Bligh Passage 37, 39 48, 49 dangers 39, 43, 226-7, 234, airports 56, 65, 229 Blue Lagoon 135 Holy Trinity Cathedral 93 see also emergencies animals 44, 206-8, see also Blue Lagoon, the (film) Naililili Catholic Mission decompression 39 individual animals 136-7 101-2 Denarau Island 65-9, 66 architecture 15, 216-17 boat travel 230, 231-2, see Naiserelagi Catholic accommodation 67-8 Mission 105 area codes 17 also individual locations activities 66-7 Roman Catholic Arovudi 147 MV Lomaiviti Princess drinking 68 151, 187, 232 Cathedral 93 arts 214-15 food 68 Yasawa Flyer 24, 127, 231 Civa Pearl Farm 169 ATMs 226 shopping 68 books 194, 208, 213 climate 21-3, 16 Australian Polynesia sights 66-7 Company 200 Bouma National Heritage climate change 195, 210, Park 177, 210 229 tourist information 68 tours 67 Bounty Island 118-19 Cloud 9 123, 38 B travel to/from 69 budget 17, 30-1, 119, 223 Cloudbreak Reef 115, Ba 110 12 Bukuya 112 dengue fever 224 backpacker resorts 222 collared lory 32, 13 Bula Festival 22 Des Voeux Peak 171 Bainimarama, Frank 194-5, Colo-i-Suva Forest Park bure kalou 218 91-2, 210 disabilities, travellers 202, 204-5 with 228 bus travel 232-3 colonial architecture 15, 217 Baker, Thomas 199 diving 9, 19-20, 32, business hours 226 constitution 204 bargaining 227 36-40, 38 consulates 223 bark cloth 214 182-3 cooking courses 66-7 basket weaving 215 C Korolevu 80-1 coral 208, Bau 102, 200 Cakobau, Seru Epenisa 142, 9 Lomaiviti Group 139-40 Coral Coast Scenic Bauan 200 146, 163, 198, 200 Mamanuca Group 115 Railway 74 Beachcomber Island 119 calendar of events 21-3 Nananu-i-Ra 106 costs 40 beaches 18, 42, 137, see also camping 31, 220, 222 Pacific Harbour 83 couchsurfing 31 individual locations cannibalism 76, 196-7 Savusavu 154-5 credit cards 226 bêche-de-mer 198 Caqalai 148 Taveuni 167-8 cruise ships 230, 232 Beqa 86-7, 22 car travel 233-4 Yasawa Group 127 cruises 34, 115-17, 127-8, see Beqa Lagoon 83, 15 Cast Away (film) 122 also drinking, see individual Castaway Island 123 locations cuisine 213 cathedrals, see churches & drinks 29-30, 31, 41-2 cultural shows 43 cathedrals drua 163

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 245 E gay travellers 223-4 honeymoons 18, 34 162-3 economy 195 geology 206 horse-riding 33 Koro 149 electricity 223 glossary 240-1 hotels 222, see also Korolevu 80-2 embassies 223 Graveyard of Kings 188 accommodation Koro-Ni-O 110-11 emergencies 17, 238-9, see Great Astrolabe Reef 183 hot springs Korotogo 78-80 also safety Great Council of Chiefs Nukubolu 161 Korotogo region 75 language 236-7, 238 202 Sabeto Hot Springs 69 Korovatu Beach 166 INDEX environment 206-10 guesthouses 222, see also Savusavu Hot Springs Koroyanitu National environmental issues individual locations 154 Heritage Park 69-70,

E-L  209 206-10 etiquette 219-20 Kuata 128-30,  H I 129 events, see festivals & Hauʻofa, Epeli 213 iguana iguana 178 events health 224 immigration 228, 229 exchange rates 17 L language 238 independence 202-5 Labasa 163-5, 164 hibiscus 219 Indian architecture 216-17 Lakeba 190 F Hibiscus Festival 22, 50, indigenous peoples 196-7 Lake Tagimaucia 171 families 18 95, 22 Indo-Fijian culture 12 landmarks Fara Festival 188 highlights 6-7, 8-15, 6-7 Indo-Fijian people 212 Cobra Rock 165-6 festivals & events 21-23, hiking 10, 20, 33 inland sports 44 International Dateline 171 50, 22 Kadavu Group 182 insurance 224-5 Navatu Rock 105 Fiji Regatta 124 Nananu-i-Ra 106 International Dateline 171 landscape 206-10 Hibiscus Festival 22, 188 internet access 225 language 16, 235-41 50, 95 Suva 93 internet resources 17 Bauan 200 South Indian Fire- Taveuni 10, 169-70 island tours 34 Fijian 235-7 Walking Festival 95 Hindu temples 48, 12, 48 islands 28-35, 206 Fiji-Hindi 237-9 Fiji Labour Party 203 Mariamma Temple 95 iTaukei culture 211 Lapita people 196 Fiji Museum 88-9 Naag Mandir Temple itineraries 24-7, 94, 24, 25, Lau Group 46, 187-91 Fiji Regatta Week 23 165-6 26, 27, 94 accommodation 180 ‘Fiji time’ 118 Sri Krishna Kaliya activities 187 Fijian Alliance Party 202-3 Temple 108-9 climate 180 Fijian language 235-7 Sri Siva Subramaniya J diving 180 Fijians 211-12 Swami Temple 56-7 J Hunter Pearls 155 Fiji-Hindi 237-9 historic sights jungles 44 highlights 181, 181 film 194 Grand Pacific Hotel 93 tourist information 189 tours 187 fire-walking 50, 87, 95, Lautoka Sugar Mill 109 K travel seasons 180 216, 22 Momi Guns 72 Kadavu 29, 39, 46 travel to/from 189 fish 208 Parliament of Fiji Kadavu Group 182-7, 184 179 fishing 32 92-3, 13 accommodation 180, Kadavu Group 183 Tavuni Hill Fort 76-7 184-6 Lautoka 107-10, 108 Malolo Lailai 124 Udreudre’s Tomb 105 activities 182-3 accommodation 109 Mamnuca Group 117 Wairiki Catholic climate 180 activities 108-9 Pacific Harbour 83-4 Mission 171 diving 180 drinking 110 Taveuni 169 Wasavula Ceremonial food 186 food 109-10 Site 163 Floating Island 166 highlights 181, 181 entertainment 110 history 196-205 flying foxes 206-7 tourist information 186 nightlife 110 colonial period 201 food 29-30, 31, 41-2, 224, travel seasons 180 sights 108-9 European 197-200 see also individual travel to/from 186-7 tourist information 110 locations independence 202-5 travel within 187 travel to/from 110 frigatebird 72 indigenous peoples kava ceremonies 198, travel within 110 196-7 212, 11 Lavena Coastal Walk hitching 234 kayaking 33-4 176, 10 G HMS Bounty 120 galleries, see museums & Kadavu Group 183 legal matters 225 holiday rentals 31 galleries Mana 128 legends, see myths & holidays 226 legends gardens, see parks & Kingsford Smith, Charles gardens homestays 31, 43, 222 100 Leleuvia 148-9 lesbian travellers 223-4 246 Levuka 15, 140-6, 144, 15 Musket Cove Marina 124 Momi Bay 72 Nananu-i-Ra 106-7, 104 accommodation 143-5 Royal Suva Yacht Club money 16, 17, 226-7 Nanuya Lailai 135 food 145 93, 95 monoliths 166 Nanuya Levu 136-7 history 142 Vuda Point 70 motorcycle travel 233-4 Nasilai 101-2 shopping 145 Waitui Marina 155 Moturiki 148, 141 Natadola Beach 72-4 sights 141-3 marine life 208, see also museums & galleries 43 national parks & reserves

INDEX INDEX individual species tourist information 145-6 Fiji Museum 50, 88-9, 209-10, see also marine Lieutenant Colonel Sitiveni marine reserves, see 203 reserves; parks & also national parks gardens Rabuka 203 Levuka Museum 142 & reserves; parks & Bouma National Heritage ,L-P Likuliku Lagoon 19 music 215-16  gardens 2 Park 177, 210 literature 194, 208, 213 myths & legends  Namena Marine Reserve Colo-i-Suva Forest live-aboards 37 38, 154, 38 bure kalou 218 Park 91-2, 210 lizards 207 Waitabu Marine Park Dakuwaqa 182 Koroyanitu National local transport 234 177-8 Gavo Passage 149 Heritage Park 69-70, Lomaiviti Group 29, 30, 37, markets 48, 213 Sacred Islands 115 209 39, 46, 139 Handicraft Market tagimaucia 173 Sigatoka National accommodation 138 (Nadi) 64 Udreudre 107 Park 75-6 activities 139-40 Handicrafts Market ura-buta 162 Waisali Rainforest Reserve 161 climate 138 (Levuka) 145 vilavilairevo 50, 87, highlights 139, 139 Makers & Growers 216, 22 Native Land Trust Board 200 140-7 Market 70 Wasavula Ceremonial Nausori 101 sights 138 Nadi produce market 62 Site 166 Navai 110-11 travel seasons 138 ROC Market 99 yawa 189 Navala 10, 111-12, , travel to/from 140 Suva Curio & Handicraft 10 19 Market 99 Navilawa 70 London Missionary Suva Flea Market 99 N Navini 120 Society 198 Naag Mandir Temple 165-6 Suva Municipal Market Naviti 131-3 lovo 50, 50 Nabalasere 103 91, 49 Navua 86 Lovoni 146, 147 Nabouwalu 167 Viseisei craft market 70 newspapers 225 Nacula 135-6 masi 214 nightlife 48, see also M mat weaving 215-16 Nadarivatu 110-11 individual locations magazines 225 Matacawalevu 133 Nadi 45, 56-65, 58, 60, northern 190 Malolo 123-4 Matagi 179 62, 64 nose flutes 215 Malolo 123-4, 2, 19, 38 Matamanoa 122 accommodation 52, Nukubolu 161 59-62 Malolo Lailai 124-5, 44 Matei 174-7, 175 activities 56-7 Mamanuca Group 9, 28-9, measures 225 climate 52 O 30, 37, 45, 113-25, 116, meke 50 drinking 63-4 ocean sports 44 2, 8-9 Melanesians 196 events 59 opening hours 226 accommodation 113, 121 Milaap Project 216 activities 114-17 festivals 59 Ovalau 29, 30, 46, 140-7, military coups 201 141 climate 113 food 52, 62-3 Moala Group 46, accommodation 138 food 113 187-91, 191 nightlife 63-4 activities 139-40 highlights 114, 114 accommodation 180 shopping 64 climate 138 Sacred Islands 115 activities 187 sights 56-7 highlights 139, 139 travel seasons 113 climate 180 tourist information 64-5 sights 138 travel to/from 117-18 diving 180 tours 57-8 travel seasons 52 tours 140 travel within 117-18 highlights 181, 181 travel to/from 65 travel seasons 138 Mana 120-2 tourist information 189 Naigani 147-8 travel to/from 140 manta rays 15, 131, 208 tours 187 Naisali 71 maps 225 travel seasons 180 Namena Marine marinas travel to/from 189 P Reserve 38, 154, 38 Copra Shed Marina 155 mobile phones 16, 227 Pacific Harbour 82-6, 83 Namenalala 162 Denarau 66 modern architecture 217 accommodation 84-5 Namosi Highlands 13, 86 Modriki 122 activities 82-4 Namotu 125 food 85

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 247 shopping 85 prawns 162 Savusavu 154-61, 156 Suva 13, 45, 88-101, 53, tourist information 85-6 public holidays 226 accommodation 156-9 89, 90-1, 13 tours 84 activities 154-5 accommodation 52, 95-7 travel to/from 86 drinking 160 activities 93, 95 Q climate 52 parks & gardens, see also Qamea 178-9 food 159-60 marine reserves; drinking 98-9 Qarase, Lasenia 204 nightlife 160 national parks & shopping 160 entertainment 99 INDEX reserves sights 154-5 events 95 Flora Tropica Gardens R festivals 95 154 tourist information 160 Rabi 163 travel to/from 161 food 52, 97-8  P-T Garden of the Sleeping radio 225  Giant 69 travel within 161 history 88 Rainbow Reef 167, 9 nightlife 98-9 Parliament of Fiji 92-3, 13 Sawa-i-Lau 11, 137, 11 Rakiraki 104-6, 104 passports 228, 229 sharks 15, 40, 182, 15 shopping 99 Ratu Sir Kamisese Mara Beqa 83 sights 88-9, 91-3 pearl farms 202 Civa Pearl Farm 169 Yasawa Group 127, 129 tourist information Ratu Sir Lala Sukuna 99-100 J Hunter Pearls 155 shopping 227, see also 200, 203 travel seasons 52 Peckham Pearl Farm 169 individual locations Ratu Udreudre, 107-8 travel to/from 100-1 Peckham Pearl Farm 169 language 237 reefs 206 travel within 101 petroglyphs 161 Sigatoka 75-8, 75, 77 Cloudbreak 115, 12 walking tour 94, 94 phonecards 227 Sigatoka Sand Great Astrolabe Reef 183 Dunes 75-6 Suva Municipal Market photography 220 Great White Wall 167 Silana 147 91, 49 planning Rainbow 167, 9 silktail bird 161 swimming 42 budgeting 16-17 Restaurants 115 smoking 225 calendar of events 21-3 Shark 40 Snake God Cave 102-3 children, travel with 41-4 Vuna 167 T snakes 207 tabua 197 Fiji basics 16-17 religion 195, 218 snorkelling 9, 19-20, 32, 14 tagimaucia 173 highlights 6-7, 6-7 reserves, see national Kadavu Group 182-3 Tasman, Abel 197, 198 independent travel 35 parks & reserves Lomaiviti 139-40 internet resources 16-17 resorts 28-30, 222, see Tavarua 125, 8-9 Nananu-i-Ra 106 itineraries 24-7, 24, 25, also accommodation, Taveuni 10, 29, 30, 39, 46, Savusavu 154-5 26, 27, 94 individual locations 167-79, 168, 10 Kadavu 46 responsible travel 40, 209 Snake Island 148 activities 167-9 Lau Group 46 restaurants 213, see Taveuni 167-8 electricity 167 Lomaiviti Group 46 also food, individual Somosomo 170-3, 172 Tavewa 133-5, 134 locations Mamanuca Group 45 southern Lau islands 191 Tavoro Waterfalls 177 Restaurants Reef 115 Moala Group 46 south Indian fire- Tavua 112 Rewa Delta 101 walking 50, 87, 95, Nadi 45 Tavuni Hill Fort 76-7 romantic getaways 18, 19 216, 22 Ovalau 46 taxis 234 Rotuma 188 South Indian Fire-Walking telephone services 16, 227 packing list 17 Festival 95 rugby 48, 99, 195, 48-9 temples 48, 12, 48 Suva 45 South Sea Island 118 Rukuruku 146-7 Mariamma Temple 95 Taveuni 46 Speight, George 202 Naag Mandir Temple tours 35 spirit houses 218 165-6 travel seasons 16-17, 21-3 S sports 195, 217, see also Sri Krishna Kaliya Vanua Levu 46 Sabeto Mountains 69 rugby Temple 108-9 Viti Levu 45 Sacred Islands 115 Sri Krishna Kaliya Temple Sri Siva Subramaniya safety 39, 43, 226-7, 234, 108-9 Yasawa Group 45 Swami Temple 56-7 see also emergencies Sri Siva Subramaniya Plantation Island tickets 229-30 Resort 125, 44 sailing 20, 230, 232, see Swami Temple 56-7, time 16, 118, 227 plants 208-9 also cruises 12, 48 tipping 226 politics 194-5 Mamanuca Group 115-16 Sunset Strip 78-80, 79 Toberua 102 Polynesians 196 Suva 93, 95 surfing 12, 20, 21, 34 Tokoriki 122-3, 49 population 195 Taveuni 169 Kadavu 183 ‘Tom Hanks Island’ 122 postal services 226 Yasawa Group 128 Mamanuca Group 115 tourism 195 pottery 214 sandalwood 198 Nadi 58 248 tourist information 227, highlights 151, 151 W wildlife 103, 169, 206-8 see also individual travel seasons 150 Wadigi 123, 2 wildlife reserves locations travel to/from 151-3 Wainikoroiluva Waterfall Colo-i-Suva Forest tours 34, see also travel within 153-4 84, 13 Park 91 individual locations VAT Refund Scheme 223 Wainunu Bay 167 Kula Eco Park 78 traditional architecture 216 Vatusila people 199 Wairiki Catholic Mission 171 Yadua Tabu 167

INDEX INDEX train travel 74 Vidawa Rainforest Trail 177 Waisali Rainforest Wilkes, Charles 124 transport 229-34, see also Reserve 161 windsurfing 12, 22, 106-7 individual locations vilavilairevo 50, 87, 216, 22 Waitabu Marine Park 177-8 women travellers 228 language 237, 239 village homestays 31, T-Y 34, 43 Waitavala Water Slide 14, woodcarving 214  travel seasons 21-3,

,171  see also individual village life 18-19, 48, 211, 14 WWII 203 locations 219-20, 5, 11, 19, 47 Waiyevo 170-3 visas 16, 228 Wakaya 149 travel to/from Fiji 229-30 Y Viseisei 70 travel within 230-4 walks yachting 20, 128, 230, 232, Treasure Island 119-20 Viti Levu 28, 30, 37, 45, Lavena Coastal see also marinas trekking, see hiking 52-112, 54-5, 58 Walk 176, 10 Denarau 68 Triangle, the 89, 91 accommodation 52 Suva 94 Lautoka 110 turtles 208 climate 52 Vidawa Rainforest Levuka 140 Trail 177 TV 225 Coral Coast 74-87 Suva 93, 95 Wasavula Ceremonial eastern Viti Levu 101-7 Yanuca (island) 87 Site 166 food 52 Yanuca (village) 74 U waterfalls highlights 53, 53 Yanuca Lailai 148 Uciwai Landing 71 Savulelele 103 Lautoka 107-10 Yaqeta 133 Unesco World Heritage Tavoro Waterfalls 177 Lautoka area 110-11 Yasawa 137 Sites 141-7 Wainikoroiluva Waterfall Nadi 56-71, 58 University of the South 84, 13 Yasawa Flyer 24, 127, 231 Nausori Highlands 111-12 Pacific 92 Waitavala Water Slide 171 Yasawa Group 9, 29, 30, 37, Rakiraki area 110-11 45, 125-37, , Uprising Festival of Music, waterparks 66 126 8-9 Dance & Lights 23 south of Nadi 71-4 accommodation 113, 121 Waya 130-1, 129, 33 ura-buta 162 Suva 88-101 activities 127-8 Wayasewa 128-30, 129 travel seasons 52 climate 113 weather 16, 21-3 travel to/from 56 food 113 V websites 17 travel within 56 highlights 114, 114 vaccinations 224 accommodation 35 western Vitu Levu history 126 Vanua Balavu 189-90 birdwatching 32 56-71, 58 tourist information 128 Vanua Levu 29, 30, 39, 46, honeymoons 34 volunteering 132, 228 travel seasons 113 151-67, 152-3, 47 travel advice 226 Vomo 120 travel to/from 128 accommodation 150 weddings 34 Vuda Point 70 travel within 128 climate 150 weights 225 yawa 189 diving 150 wi-fi 225

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 249 NOTES 250 NOTES NOTES  251 NOTES NOTES  252 NOTES 253 NOTES 254 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 255

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Dublin, Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Paul Clammer Paul has contributed to more than 25 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, and has worked as a tour guide in countries from Turkey to Morocco. In a previous life he may even have been a molecular biologist. When his aid-worker partner was of- fered a job in Suva, he leapt at the chance of being based in Fiji for an extended period, even when Tropical Cyclone Pam threw a spanner in the works. Follow @paulclammer on Twitter for updates from the road.

Tamara Sheward Despite a hearty dislike of heat and humidity – not to mention that pesky mango allergy – Tamara not only lives in the tropics, but enjoys travelling them extensively. While researching this book, she rode in 41 boats, six aeroplanes, umpteen rattly open-air buses and one submarine; alas, no similar tally was kept on kava consumption. In addition to writing about Fiji, Tamara has covered a miscellany of countries for Lonely Planet, including the Samoas, Serbia, northern Australia, Bulgaria and Russia.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Ltd CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 10th edition – December 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 214 1 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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