GLUTTONY GUIDE TO VICTORIA BC

BaconIsMagic.ca TO SAY VICTORIA AFFECTED ME IS AN UNDERSTATEMENT. I LOVE THIS CITY.

Located on the southern tip It’s the healthiest of Vancouver Island. city in Canada, It reminds me of everything I loved about the cycling capital (not that I cycle) living by the water in the Maritimes. But and has the second most restaurants it’s just a bit better. per capita in North America – second But get there early, only to San Francisco. I stopped in at 11:15am and was able to And the weather! It has West Coast sit at a table overlooking the water but weather but only half the rainfall of in a span of ten minutes the joint was Vancouver. packed. It could be perfect. I’m so happy to share this guide to the spots I loved in Victoria and I hope it encourages you to visit this city. RESTAURANTS

10 ACRES

BISTRO + COMMONS + KITCHEN + FARM

CAN I TELL YOU HOW AWESOME LISA BOYLAN IS? he agreed to do this Facebook Live video with me where she teaches me how to shuck an Soyster. She was terrified to do it but I think she did an amazing job. Also she’s training for a charity boxing match – and she’s never boxed before. She’s a beast. Originally from Ireland, she’s been at 10 Acres for a year. 10 Acres is actually 3 restaurants: 10 Acres Bistro, 10 Acres Kitchen, 10 Acres Commons. Fortunately they are all in the same block. What makes this place special is that it has its own organic farm. I love meeting people who love their job and are inspired every day. After our video Lisa talked to me about how fresh produce was and that she’d never worked anywhere with such a strong connection to the farm. 10 Acres Commons also has a great happy hour 10 Acres that is 10pm to close with 1/2 price raw and cooked 611 Courtney St, Victoria oysters where Lisa and others shuck next to a DJ. (250) 220-8008 RESTAURANTS

AGRIUS

his restaurant makes all its own killer charcuterie in- Thouse and has an in-house bakery (called Fol Epi) – the bread is SO good. I almost posted a photo of just the bread, which normally I skip in a meal, because you CANNOT skip it. It seems that others love it as well, it was named Enroute’s #4 best new restaurant in Canada. The front of Agrius is a cafe to get bread, pastries, cured meat and sandwiches. At night you enter through the side for the open kitchen restaurant. I recommend sitting at the bar for the best view of the kitchen. Agrius 732 Yates St, Victoria (778) 265-6312 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS FISH HOOK KUNAL GHOSE is most well known for opening Red Fish Blue Fish, the recycled shipping container fish shop which warrants long lines in Victoria’s Inner Harbour. He recently opened a second location for Fish Hook, on the waterfront at Mermaid Wharf opposite Canoe Brewpub which has a different menu. This one takes a seafood spin on Indian Thali, and while it’s not a round platter, it does offer a number of cured, smoked, fried and pickled seafood. This is a great dish to sit out on the waterfront with a drink.

Fish Hook 407 Swift Street, Victoria (250) 590-6988 RESTAURANTS HANKS *A RESTAURANT I MANAGED TO POP INTO HANK’S AFTER DINNER AND JUST

BEFORE THE ENDED SERVICE. It feels like a Toronto restaurant, almost There are only two tables, one for 2 like the anti-thesis of west coast dining. people and another for four. Otherwise it’s bar seating around an open kitchen It’s not light and airy and calm. It’s cooking with induction burners. unapologetically small, dark, with Pearl Jam concert posters as artwork and music The menu is small, the food changes daily, blasting. It’s a food first philosophy and I and everything is made from scratch. love everything about it. Enough said. I immediately send Dave a video of the There’s no phone number, which is layout of the restaurant as I know he’s hilarious. You can’t book a reservation so always wanted a small restaurant like this. there’s no reason to call.

Hanks *A Restaurant 1001 Douglas St, Victoria RESTAURANTS La Taqueria

don’t often seek out Mexican restaurants in other cities and Iwas hesitant to visit La Taqueria but if you’ve been to a taqueria in Mexico you’ll sense the familiar aes- thetic from signage to tiling. It’s not all for show, many of the staff are from Mexico and the flavours are legit.

This isn’t the only location, they have four others in Vancouver. But don’t let this deter you. In Toronto we have a similarly well-known taco chain and they couldn’t be more opposite. At La Taqueria there is still a connection and respect to Mexico and they recently held a fundrais- ing promotion for the victims of the Oaxacan earthquake.

La Taqueria 766 Fort Street, Victoria 778-265-6255 RESTAURANTS

Nourish Kitchen and Cafe

could rave about this place all day and night. Nearly every local nodded when I told them I loved it there, it’s a quiet Ifavourite amongst many. I LOVED the harissa carrots that were a new addition to the menu – so much so that I went back to eat them again and begged for the recipe (coming soon!). Not surprisingly Nourish caters to vegan, veget arian and gluten-free diners, but also offers meat. This heritage home from 1889 is in James Bay and is the embodiment of conscious eating. With an emphasis on holistic nutrition the food focuses on enhancing nutrient density and bioavailability.

Nourish Kitchen and Cafe 225 Quebec St, Victoria 250-590-3426 RESTAURANTS

lthough OLO is not new, it’s widely considered one of the best restaurants in Victoria BC. Locals love it and it’s easy to see why. The interior is stun- Aning, the food is local and seasonal and the ser- vice is friendly without feeling insincere. And the cocktails are interesting, instead of wine I ordered the Bitter Booch with housemade kombucha with amaro. Farm to table at its heart. The name means “hungry” in chinook jargon and the restaurant uses classic techniques to share food that highlights the ingredients. It’s simple and delicious. OLO

OLO 509 Fisgard St, Victoria (250) 590-8795 RESTAURANTS The Ruby (On Johnson)

don’t do brunch. It’s just not my thing. I know cooks hate it because they partied too hard on Saturday night and are suffering Sunday morning. I don’t like waiting in line. Also, I Idon’t like paying other people for breakfast food. Friends don’t even ask me out for brunch anymore because they know the answer is no. I forgot that when I visited The Ruby on Saturday at noon, that technically was brunch. But they have a menu for brunch haters like me. I was skeptical when they told me the most popular item was the chicken and waffles, an item that seems to be on every menu in Canada right now. But I quickly put the sassy judgemental attitude to the side when I ate it. They aren’t just slapping KFC on Eggos with a side of Aunt Jemima. They use farm fresh chickens (never frozen) that they brine and then dry rub. The chicken was fantastic with the spicy maple syrup and the smoked tomato sauce on the side was TO. DIE. FOR. If I lived in Victoria I’d make an exception for brunch every once in a while if people were eating The Ruby 642A Johnson St, Victoria at The Ruby. (778) 265-8750 RESTAURANTS Rebar he kind of restaurant that everyone recommends but no one mentions that it’s mostly Tvegetarian. Everyone loves it so they don’t consider it one of the best vegetarian restaurants in Victoria – just a restaurant.

The menu features a few dishes with fish for pescatarians, as well as eggs for brunch, but it’s primarily vegetarian. But nowhere do they claim to be vegetarian, simply serving modern food.

Rebar 50 Bastion Square, Victoria (250) 361-9223 RESTAURANTS

Willie’s Cafe and Bakery

ou cannot explore the best restaurants in Victoria BC without starting the day Y off right. Willie’s Cafe and Bakery is the oldest bakery in Victoria BC and also offers an extensive eggs benedict menu. I chose the Tofino – in house smoked wild salmon, cream cheese, crispy capers, spinach and hollandaise. They use local, organic ingredients for their Willie’s Cafe all-day breakfast and all-day lunch. and Bakery 537 Johnson St, Victoria (250) 381-8414 VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN RESTAURANTS IN VICTORIA

ne thing you can be sure continent. There’s a large vegetarian of on the West Coast is and vegan population, and most that there will be plenty of omnivore restaurants offer many great vegan and vegetarian meatless options. options. Victoria was no different. O Many omnivores choose vegetarian and However, Victoria has the highest vegan often. So while visiting I thought vegetarian food sales per capita on the I would too, here are my favourites. VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN

BE LOVE modern, upscale vegan restaurant, with the A exception of local free- run eggs offered at brunch. I popped in for a raw ZLT (zucchini bacon, lettuce tomato), with honey-mustard cashew mayo on house made almond pumpernickel.

I LOVED IT! No, it didn’t taste like bacon but it had the smokey, sweetness as well as the texture. It’s considerably more expensive than other options but a great atmosphere and menu options for an evening out. Let’s face it, vegans shouldn’t be relegated to only eating at less expensive buffets.

Be Love 1019 Blanshard St, Victoria (778) 433-7181 VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN

onsidered one of the best vegetarian restaurants in CVictoria, it was recommended by everyone. Located in the Market Square Courtyard, it has been around for over 25 years. A well priced buffet, it’s also vegan but you’d never know – especially as there is a full selection of ice cream available. I tried the tom yam soup (amazing) and a bunch of different items from the buffet – some I liked better than others but that is normal with any buffet. GREEN CUISINE

VEGETARIAN Green Cuisine 560 Johnson St #5 RESTAURANT (250) 385-1809 VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN

Venus Sophia Tea Room

ocated in Chinatown, Venus Sophia is Victoria’s only vegetarian tea room and it’s family-run. Most people who come into Venus Sophia would have no idea Lit’s a vegetarian tea room. You don’t miss the smoked salmon or tuna sandwiches when you have amazing mushroom and caramelized fig sandwiches. Everything is made from scratch on site daily. Many tea rooms will make the sandwiches but bring in pastries. It’s received international accolades from everyone from Conde Naste Traveller to the Globe and Mail. Gluten-free friends, they can accommodate you too!

Venus Sophia Tea Room 540 Fisgard St, Victoria (250) 590-3953 VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN

his vegan butcher was a must-visit item on my list. T It’s so good that meat eaters are flocking here to try plant-based dishes like vegan poutine, burgers with flax mayo and house made “cheez.” I loved the jackfruit “ribs” and even the rice paper bacon but the tempeh bacon was a tough sell. Half the customers are omnivore and I’m not surprised as the food is tasty. THE VERY GOOD BUTCHERS

The Very Good Butchers 1701 Douglas St, Victoria 250-465-1542 CRAFT BEER IN VICTORIA CRAFT BEER IS EXPLODING IN BRITISH COLUMBIA, WITH THE NUMBER OF CRAFT BREWERIES GROWING

50 90 145 2013 2015 2017

There are lots of great pubs that brew their own beer and bars dedicated to curating craft beer. Here’s where I explored one afternoon with craft beer expert JOE WIEBE. CRAFT BEER

CANOE BREWPUB

THIS JUST MAY BE HOME TO THE BEST PATIO FOR VICTORIA CRAFT BEER.

anoe Modern brewpub is housed in a restored historic building that looks out onto the waterfront. The interior is stunning with wood Cbeams and exposed brick. If you have a group of five you can book a tour and guided beer tasting of their small batch beer.

Don’t skip out on the food. The kitchen suggested the chicken curry, which I thought was an odd pairing for beer but it turned out to be a delicious Thai curry.

Canoe Brewpub 450 Swift St, Victoria (250) 361-1940 CRAFT BEER GARRICK’S HEAD PUB

ALTHOUGH LOCALS TELL YOU It has the largest selection of craft and import TO AVOID GOVERNMENT STREET beer with over 50 beers on tap. THIS IS AN EXCEPTION. Not all are local, you’ll find some from the West Coast and if you like a good ole fashioned mass arricks Head Pub is in a historic produced beer they have that too. building from 1867. The main room Food is as approachable with burgers and noodle feels like an airy casual pub and the dishes. I highly recommend the Aussie burger back is reminiscent of its history, complete with beets and a fried egg. And don’t Gcomplete with a stone fireplace. skip the beer battered fries.

Garrick’s Head Pub 1140 Government St, (250) 384-6835 CRAFT BEER

PHILLIPS BREWING AND MALTING

n 2001 Matt Phillips worked in the industry but PHILLIPS IS ONE at age 27 he wanted his own business. OF THOSE EPIC INo bank would give him a loan so he funded the venture completely from a number of credit cards. STORIES THAT He brewed in a tiny apartment without windows, where he also lived. EVERYONE Now he has one of the hottest breweries in the city (in an actual commercial brewery) with its own LOVES TO HEAR. malting facility and is opening his own tasting room. You’ll find Phillips all over the city. The brewery is very active and hosts a summer concert series.

Phillips Brewing and Malting 2010 Government St (250) 380-1912 CRAFT BEER

SPINNAKERS GASTRO BREWPUB o hear that a chef in Victoria is sourcing 100% isn’t unusual until you discover her T restaurant has over 300 seats. In addition to making local beer, cider, choco- lates, vinegars and probably much more. It’s also the oldest brewpub and was pivotal in changing brewing regulations so that craft breweries could compete. If you have time get the chocolate truffle and paired beer flight. I didn’t have time but I’d Spinnakers love to do it. 308 Catherine St (250) 386-2739 CRAFT BEER

UNBELIEVEABLY, THE BEER LIST AT THE DRAKE CHANGES DAILY.

he Drake curates a menu from the Service is similar to Europe and New Pacific North-West and staff really Zealand/Australia where you order at the bar. know their beer. If you also get food they’ll bring it out to you.

So if you aren’t sure what to get Like much of Victoria the food is local, Tyou can tell them what other beer you like seasonal with lots of veggie and vegan and they’ll offer a sample. options.

The Drake Eatery 517 Pandora Ave (250) 590-9075 COCKTAILS IN VICTORIA AREN’T JUST OLD FASHIONEDS AND NEGRONIS. YOU CAN FIND THOUGHTFUL AND INTERESTING USES OF LOCAL AND INTERNATIONAL INGREDIENTS. And everyone has a story of how that cocktail was named. The best cocktails in Victoria aren’t just lim- ited to bars, but restaurants in Victoria have full bar programs. I loved the Bitter Booch at Olo with house- made kombucha with amaro. The Chilled Happiness at Nourish uses ampersand gin, bella rosé, lemon, happy wellness syrup made with Silk Road tea. At Agrius I tried several cocktails and loved them.

COCKTAILS IN VICTORIA COCKTAILS

CLIVE’S CLASSIC LOUNGE

DON’T LET ITS LOCATION IN A HOTEL DETER YOU.

n fact, most of the hottest cocktail bars in Victoria are adjoined to a hotel. But this lounge is legendary and staff take cocktails Ivery seriously ensuring they are always well balanced. Order the Rise and Shine and thank me later.

Clive’s Classic Lounge at the Chateau Laurier 450 Swift St, Victoria (250) 361-1940 COCKTAILS

THE FAIRMONT EMPRESS Q BAR

ocals will tell you that as a rule you should stay off Government St. Yet, there are a few exceptions like Garrick’s Pub to drink craft Lbeer in Victoria, and the Fairmont Empress Hotel. I visited for one specific reason. The Fairmont partnered with Victoria Distillers to create a signature gin. It’s a vibrant natural indigo colour because it uses butterfly pea blossom. On its own the gin is stunning. But they discovered when this gin is mixed with tonic it turns lilac. Magic show? Science experiment? Sure it’s a novelty but this gin is also really good and worth the show. The Q Bar also serves a Q-1908 signature cocktail to celebrate the centennial of the Fairmont Empress Hotel, which is a beautiful lavender gin sour. Luckily you can buy the Empress Gin and make this gin sour recipe at home.

Q Bar 721 Government St (250) 389-2727 COCKTAILS he new hot spot in town, the barman here, Shawn Soole, was previously at Clive’s FOXTROT and Little Jumbo and is well known in town. TFTW is located in the Hilton hotel, the theme is 1950’s TANGO Los Angeles with spins on classic drinks using local ingredients like Silk Road Tea.

If you’re a whisky fan this is the place to go as the WHISKY menu changes often and features rare bottles and obscure regions. They also feature a guest bartender BAR (FTW) series with talent from around the world. There’s good reason to go often.

FTW at the Hilton Doubletree 722 Humboldt St (250) 940-3126 COCKTAILS

LITTLE JUMBO

SOME DESCRIBE IT AS A BAR AND OTHERS WOULD SAY IT’S A RESTAURANT..

or the last five years it’s been considered one of the best spots for cocktails and new Canadian Ffood. Each cocktail reads like a story; the Witch in the Woods reminds me of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale as I need to drink a potion to keep her away. And it’s hard to choose, by prose or by ingredients?

Another bonus point: reservations accepted here.

Little Jumbo 506 Fort Street, Down the Hall (778) 433-5535 COCKTAILS

VENETO TAPA LOUNGE

’ve stayed in many hotels with a bar but few were visited by locals. Yet Veneto at the Hotel Rialto is B-U-S-Y during happy hour and full of Ilocals. Veneto dares adventurous guests to choose a spirit and taste (sour, sweet, savoury, tart) for a surprise. As a result, I needed to try all the options over several days. My favourite was Brian’s Sunny Side of the Street, and loved that it included pisco.

Oh how I miss pisco sours in Peru.

Veneto Lounge at the Rialto Hotel 1450 Douglas St (250) 383-7310 COCKTAILS BE LOVE

VEGANS LIKE COCKTAILS TOO!

here’s so much vegan and vegetarian food in Victoria. The most Tmodern vegan restaurant is Be Love (although they do have eggs in some of the brunch dishes). While the non-meat eaters rave about the food, it also has a separate bar that everyone loves. You don’t need to eat at the Be Love bar, you can just pop-in for a drink.

Some Be Love cocktails take a healthy spin with spirulina or bull kelp. Yet others are more whimsicle like the Majik Margarita above with jalapeno infused hornitos plata tequila, cointreau, fresh lime juice, blue majik and turbinado sugar.

Be Love 1019 Blanshard St 778-433-7181 EMPIRE DONUTS

nlike cupcakes, donuts have not gone out of style. Melanie Laverick once worked in a restaurant and decided she was ready for something new. You can Utaste her culinary prowess with a diverse offering classic, yeast or cake donuts along with holiday specials.

These are the kind of donuts that will make you fall in love with pastries again. Empire Donuts 736 View St, Victoria (250) 415-8105 HEY HAPPY COFFEE

here are SO many great coffee shops in Victoria and I didn’t get to visit enough of them because I had Tswitched to tea.

But I did pop into Hey Happy and it was just as good as locals promised.

Hey Happy 560 Johnson St, Victoria (250) 590-9680 SNOWDON HOUSE aura Waters’ gourmet gift shop will make your head spin with possibilities. The shop is a one- of-a-kind show on its own with so many different Litems from cider bread to brie toppers. But the absolute must buy items are her fir products that she makes from her former Christmas tree farm. You won’t find anything else like this, her sparkling fir essence or fir vinegars. They are incredible.

Snowdon House 1890 Mills Rd, North Saanich (250) 658-3419 EMPRESS 1908 GIN

ictoria Distillers latest collaboration with the Fairmont Empress hotel is a gin with an indigo V hue that turns violet when tonic is added. You can buy it in the city centre, also Victoria Distillers is located just outside the city in Sidney and has a retail store and bar.

Empress 1908 Gin 9891 Seaport Pl, Sidney (250) 544-8217 SILK ROAD TEA

lthough I never would have considered I’M A TEA BELIEVER. myself a “tea person” this place may change my life. I spoke with founder, If you like tea or are curious it’s worth coming in. ADaniela Cubelic about tea, how to switch from Staff are so down to earth and sometimes they have coffee and the benefits of drinking various tea. workshops at their tea bar. I also bought some of their face care products from their organic spa and it has transformed my Silk Road Tea habitually dry skin. 1624 Government St (250) 382-0006 SEA CIDER FARM AND CIDERHOUSE

hile it’s not located within city limits, Sea Cider is worth the drive for one of the most dynamic Wciderhouses in North America.

An organic orchard experimenting with cider apples, I’ve never had such a diverse tasting of ciders. Styles range from traditional German- style to others that incorporate champagne yeast. Grab a charcuterie board and stay a few hours to enjoy the orchard view.

Sea Cider Farm and Ciderhouse 2487 Mt St Michael Rd, Saanichton (250) 544-4824 Walk Off Your Meal

NOT ONLY IS VICTORIA CANADA’S THE MOST WALKABLE CITY BY FOOT BUT IT’S ALSO THE CYCLING CAPITAL AND, NOT SURPRISINGLY, THE FITTEST CITY IN CANADA.

There is so much to see and do. A few notable walks are:

Scenic Marine Drive Westsong Walkway Beacon Hill Park Many people drive this route This is an easy 2.4 km The most ambitious walk as for the most picturesque (1.5 mi.) paved path from the park is huge. It’s a short Pacific Ocean views. If the the “Blue Bridge” by walk and there are some weather is good you can the Songhees totems hills but also so much to see. follow this path around the through the harbour to the Notably, Winston Churchill southern coast of the city. West Bay float homes. It’s all planted a tree here in 1929. It’s a popular spot for cyclists flat but if you want to burn and joggers. There’s also an extra calories run up the 100- off leash dog park. step staircase. Where I Stayed HOTEL RIALTO

n press trips a hotel will host you for free. Hotel Rialto hosted me for 4 nights while Oon my search for the best restaurants in Victoria BC and I liked it so much I paid for two more nights on my own.

I love smaller hotels and this is a new- ish (2009) hotel with only 52 rooms and it is close to everything. It’s a restored 1912 heritage building and the “Old World Italian with hints of Chinese influence” decor might seem a bit kooky but it pays respect to its original builder Chinese merchant Lim Bang.

What I really love about this place is that they have a genius way to get people to opt out of maid service every day. If you choose to forego it, they give you a $10 credit to Veneto Tapa Lounge. So smart! I opted out the whole time. I’m tidy enough and can make my own bed.

Hotel Rialto 1450 Douglas St, Victoria 250-383-4157 THANKS FOR READING!

his guide was created in partnership with Tourism Victoria. I Thope it helps you plan your travels in Victoria. I loved the city so much you just might find me there!

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Ayngelina

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