International Journal of Tour Guiding Research

Volume 2 Issue 1 Article 7

2021

The Tangible and Intangible Heritages of Iranian Nomads: the Touristic Potential of Pastoral Nomadism

Hossein Noroozi University of Milano, Bicocca, [email protected]

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The Tangible and Intangible Heritages of Iranian Nomads: the Touristic Potential of Pastoral Nomads

Hossein Noroozi University of Milano, Bicocca [email protected] Iranian people have a rich and significant history of nomadism and are still in contact with this ancient practice. The purpose of this research is to investigate and evaluate the Iranian nomads’ culture from a touristic and aesthetic viewpoint. The literature shows that well-known cultural tourist attractions possess particular characteristics to become a successful and sustainable product / destination. In this paper, we argue that Iranian pastoral nomads, from a geographical, social, cultural, and artistic perspective, have numerous peculiar characteristics which are attractive to international tourists. Internationally, while the sociocultural frameworks of nomadic societies are at risk of extinction when confronted with factors like globalisation, Nomads and nomadic lifestyle in , seems to be less exposed to cultural, economic, and social changes. Fortunately, the main foundations of nomadic life in Iran, based on mobility, free movement and self-sufficiency are still practiced. Iranian nomadic tribes migrate seasonally twice a year, the phenomenon being called Kooch - the most fundamental characteristic of nomads in Iran. We present an argument that Kooch and other nomadic activities are potential tourist products. Twice a year, these pastoral nomads move their ambulant houses and all their equipment, which has been designed in an extremely artistic and skilful way. This unique journey of mobile heritage makes Iranian nomads attractive to the eyes of outsiders. The potential symbiosis between nomadic heritage and tourism offers a genuine opportunity for the development of sustainable tourism. Key Words: Iran, nomads, tourism, attraction, pastoralism, destination, culture, stakeholders

Introduction and where do they live? What makes Iranian nomadic life attractive for outsiders? Are Iranian nomads Hearing the words nomads or nomadism, many and their culture sufficiently attractive to develop questions arise in our minds. Questions like: Who sustainable tourism? How would tour guides work are nomads? What is nomadism? Does nomadic with these fascinating people, to develop appropriate life still exist in the 21st century? Ethnologists and tourism in a sustainable and meaningful way. anthropologists have been working in this field for many years and have found definitive results to these Nomadism is a way of life and human existence that questions. This paper looks closely at the pastoral is connected with permanent regular movements of nomads of and the , and people between different locations. A nomad is a in particular Iranian nomads; it looks closely at the person with no settled home, moving systematically Iranian nomads, their culture and history, which from place to place as a way of obtaining food, finding is still very prominent today. This is where more pasture for livestock, or otherwise making a living. questions arise again: who are the Iranian nomads Since the distant past, there have been numerous This research was supported by Professor Elena and varied forms of livelihood patterns based on Dell'Agnese. I have had the pleasure of working with her different types of rural and nomadic livestock in all in preparing this paper and during my Master's studies at parts of Iran and there is a large portion of livestock the University of Milano-Bicocca. feed and feeding resources in the fields. Three forms Professor Dell’Agnese has provided much insight and of nomadism can be distinguished: nomadic hunters expertise that greatly assisted my research.

~ 63 ~ Noroozi & Dell’Agnese The Tangible and Intangible Heritages of Iranian Nomads and gatherers, pastoral nomads, and non-sedentary starts. people whose economic activities focus on tinkering and trading. However, this research is only concerned While the term nomad is used in many instances to with pastoral nomads in Persia (Iran). refer to a form of travel, tourism or event activity that is transitory in nature (Steenjacobsen (2010) refers Nomadic life in Iran has a long tradition, and to fleeting or nomadic tourism; Richards and Wilson nomads have always played an important role in (2004) highlight the backpacking, global nomad; the country’s history. Examining the Olga (2020) discusses various aspects of the ‘digital reveals that without studying the history of Persian nomad’ and Ningrum and Mustika align nomad and Nomads, it is not possible to know the history of rural tourism), there is a burgeoning literature on Iran properly. According to the results of Iran’s ‘nomadic tourism’ as related to nomadic people (see Planning and Budget Organization studies, in 2008 Wong, Ma & Xiong (2020) who discuss the sporting the population of Persian Nomads is more than 1 events of nomadic peoples in Inner Mongolia as million and the nomadic tribal population covers nostalgic cultural events; Tiberghien, Bremner & about 59 percent of the total land area of Iran. The Milne (2018) who discuss the the commodification tribes of Iran have maintained a diversity of cultures of nomadic culture in in the context and forms of social and political organizations. The of , or Tenzin, Mee-Udon and numerous motives for nomadism in Iran include: Prampesit (2019) who discuss ‘homestays’ with nomadic people in Bhutan). • It is the preferred form of subsistence • It maintains cultural and ethnic independence Nomadic tourism includes engaging with the nomads’ migration practices, their cultural and • It resists outside interference behavioural aspects, living models, traditional • It is a way to avoid war or ethnic hostility economic activities, artefacts in addition to • It is the only lifestyle known and is compatible visiting nomads’ residences, and experiencing a with peoples’ view of themselves nomadic life – perhaps for an extended period of time. Considering this scope of nomadic tourism, • No single area provides sufficient resources all we can discuss numerous reasons and examples year around of the high potential which nomadic tourism in relation to Iranian pastoral nomads. To explore It is not possible to claim that nomads can live as this claim we can analyse the economic, socio- they used to thousands of years ago and maintain cultural, ethnographic, and geographical aspects of their livelihoods through the management of their Iranian nomadic lifestyle with an emphasis on their livestock. Nomadism as a way of living is now at housing, costumes, rituals, art, and Kooch (seasonal risk, thus, it is time to look at nomad tourism as a migration) which are the main characteristics of viable supplementary economic activity. Time is Iranian pastoral nomads which could be linked with short if the nomadic way of life is to be sustained. tourism. Above all else, animal husbandry is the most fundamental activity of Iranian nomads. When Nomadic Tourism in Iran exploring the activities of all nomadic people, it is Nomadism and tourism are two entirely different important to not neglect the importance of livestock traveling processes. Tourists, as a mobile group, are because if the nomadic activities are not livestock- always coming and going. This transience is one of based, the nomadic lifestyle will collapse. the basic criticism about the tourists – particularly their careless and exploitative engagement with local In this paper, we investigate the implications and society and landscape. Nomads are also defined by potential for implementing nomad tourism in Iran, travel and mobility, but nomadism is very different. contingent on a wide variety of factors, including Where the act of nomadism ends, the ‘sightseeing’ environment, society, culture, and economy at

~ 64 ~ International Journal of Tour Guiding Research Volume 2(i) 2021 each level of the tourism system. As stated, nomad dispersed across the country, but they are mostly tourism in a rural setting is the subject of a growing concentrated at the heart of Iran’s major mountain literature, reflecting interest amongst academics range of Zagros from the north-west to the southern and industry practitioners from both the public and coast (Figure 1). The distribution of nomad tribes in private sectors. There is some evidence of this trend the geographical area of Iran is not static and perhaps in Iran where the is attaching increased some areas that used to have a large populations of importance to nomad and rural tourism and has nomadic tribes in the past are reduced today due to launched several initiatives. However, little research the rapid growth of urbanization or the conversion has been conducted in general and particularly there of lands to industrial, or ‘static agricultural use. is an absence of insights within a local community Accordingly, distribution of tribal Iranian nomads context. by province can be classified as follows:

The Nomads of Iran A: Nomad tribes in the west and south-west of Iran B. Nomad tribes in the north-west of Iran In recent research, the ethnic categorization of nomadic Iranian tribes is generally based on present C. Nomad tribes in the north-east of Iran conditions rather than historical origins, since for D. Nomad tribes in the east and south-east of Iran example many tribes which are today regarded as Kurdish or Turkish were in past times described E. Nomad tribes in the centre of Iran. as Lor or Lak, and vice versa. Iranian nomads are

Figure 1: Distribution of Nomadic Population in Iran

Iranian Nomadic Affairs Organization, 2008

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Multiculturalism (ethnic and tribal diversity) Figure 3: Bakhitary nomad man Iran has a varied population that includes different ethnic groups; each group expresses its unique identity with its own language, tradition, and clothes. Multicultural in nature, ethnic and tribal diversity is an important element in nomadic tourism. The tribes of Iran have maintained a diversity of cultures and forms of social and political organisation. Recognising this diversity, observers have classified them in a variety of ways, for different purposes. In official or historical documents, and some recent accounts taking the perspective of the state, tribal groups are often listed by ethnic affiliation, that is, by language and/or supposed origins.

The more powerful, numerous and best-known nomad tribes are connected in large confederacies, led by powerful chief dynasties such as the Bakhtiary and Qashqai. None of these major groups were/are Khalil Qolami, Mizan News Agency

Figure 2: Iranian Kurdish nomad girl Figure 4: Iranian Turkmen nomad girl

Nasrollah Kasraian, Pinterest Nasrollah Kasraian, ghalam- mou gallery

~ 66 ~ International Journal of Tour Guiding Research Volume 2(i) 2021 exclusively pastoral nomads, and their chiefs are tent. The most common type of tent used by nomads not merely leaders of nomads but have legitimate in Iran is the ‘black tent’ (constructed of of sources of pastoral wealth and power. They depend woven goat hair stitched together), which is known not only on livestock but also possess agricultural from Mauritania to . These portable houses land and commonly own city-based trading houses. can be considered as an accommodation facility for Less powerful groups have always been more nomad tourism, and are both a rare and unique type focused in their engagement with the state at only of housing. From a touristic perspective, a closer a regional level, but several on occasion have taken look at the nomadic house reveals that there are a stance, and ranked politically alongside the major numerous unique varieties, which offer a range of confederacies. Other tribal groups in Iran have had aesthetic sensations to tourists. no centralised political structure, being diffusely organized and having no prominent leadership. Tents must be carefully distinguished on technological Briefly, the main nomadic tribes of Iran by ethnicity grounds from ‘huts,’ though they share certain are: Kurd (Figure. 2), Lor (Figure 3), Turk, Baluch, impermanent and portable characteristics. Both Turkmen (Figure 4), Arab and Fars. the fixed hut and the portable yurt consist of roofs resting on walls, which precisely delimit the living Housing space (Figure 5); In eastern Azerbaijan and Ṭaleš on one hand, and in Fars, Sīstān and Baluchistan, A Čādor ‘tent’, is a portable dwelling, characteristic and Bašakerd, on the other, there are dwellings of a of certain nomad groups. It consists of a canopy type intermediate between the tent and the hut. They of cloth or skin supported by upright posts and consist of frames made of branches and covered anchored to the ground utilizing pegs and ropes. The with woven goat hair (Figure 6). word čādor refers to both the canopy and the entire

Figure 5: A group of Shahsavan nomadic women next to a Yurt

Farshad Farajollahi, TabrizLinks

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Figure 6: Black Tent

Ahmad Sabouri, Mehr News Agency

Although huts are utilised nearly everywhere in Nomadism for tourists. Traditional ceremonies and Iran, in forms that can complement or substitute for traditional have always been some of the other types of dwellings, the territorial distribution most characteristic features of nomadic groups since of the yurt and the tent seems to follow ethnic lines. ancient times in Iran and recently these have begun The yurt is found among the Šāhsevan, Turkman, to be seen as tangible tourist attractions. We note western Aymaq, Uzbek and Kirghiz tribes, while the how the different peoples from different tribes with tent is mainly used by Kurd, Lor, Baluch and Pashtun their substantially different lifestyles and cultures nomads, in additon to the Afšār and Qašqāʾī, tribes. are introducing themselves as Iranian and belong to This type of unique ‘architecture’ is influenced by a unified country. Traditionally this is mostly marked many factors such as culture, ethnicity, environment, in women’s clothing; it is easy to identify which economy, history, art, creativity, religion, and so on. region or tribe the person belongs to, based on the Those who are looking to engage with nomadic colourful fabrics, embroidered patterns, decorative peoples from a tourism perspective need to be both or the style of their hijab. educated and informed about these delineations of society, and the viability of utilising these cultural Tribal ceremonies are performed mainly as groups structures for tourist accommodation. and with the participation of all members of a community - men and women, young and old. In Weddings, costumes and rituals tribal societies, a celebration such as a marriage not only links two individuals and their families, it also Many aspects of culture and heritage make Iranian takes place within a broader context. Importantly a nomads and nomadic zones unique with various wedding creates relationships between and within aesthetic aspects supporting the destination value of

~ 68 ~ International Journal of Tour Guiding Research Volume 2(i) 2021 tribes and is an important social device to connect Arts and crafts and unite groups. The celebration nomadic tribal Hand crafted products reflect the historical, social, wedding ceremonies, has roots in thousands of years and cultural characteristics of the producer. Thus, of history and culture, they are joyful, spectacular they can be an important factor of culture and and praiseworthy events (Figure 7). Wedding civilization, thus emerging as an important factor celebrations, typically last 7 or 8 days, but can to attract tourists. The creative arts and the tourism sometimes last for 20 or even 40 consecutive days of industry interact with each other in many ways and celebration involving dance, circle songs and music can develop in a symbiotic and sustainable manner. (Figures 7-9). In nomadic culture, art and crafts are typically The combination of ancient attractions within a quite simple and functional, but, typically based on pristine natural environment is beyond compare; centuries of tradition. The most characteristic feature beautiful traditional costumes worn by colourfully of Persian nomadic craft work is the production of adorned women, inspired by nature, orchestrate artistic woven products. the movement of men and women with coloured Gelim: A Gelim or Kelim is a kind of flat-woven fabrics to create a harmonious atmosphere (Figure carpet created by settled and nomadic families, 9). Persian Nomads usually marry within their own primarily but not exclusively, for covering household cultural group, thus, maintaining their unique culture items and furnishing the interior of dwellings. Gelim and traditions in terms of lifestyle and ceremonies. is a term used in Persian-speaking parts of West Asia, Attending an Iranian nomadic wedding is a unique especially in Iran, for large tapestry-woven textiles, experience for visitors and tourists. also referred to as kelim in the Turkish speaking parts

Figure 7: Traditional ceremonies - Bakhtiari nomads, south west Iran

Massoud Raisi, Irna News Agency

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Figure 8: Marriage ceremony - Qashqai Nomads, , south of Iran

Amin Berenjkar, Mehr News Agency

Figure 9: Marriage ceremony - Kurd nomads of Khorasan Shomali, north east of Iran

Peyman Hamidipur, Tasnim News Agency

~ 70 ~ International Journal of Tour Guiding Research Volume 2(i) 2021 of West Asia. Created mostly by women who have and minor changes are made within the framework of an eye for design and a great sense of colour, Gelims the customs in the area. Persian nomads, especially are prized for their rich colour, diverse designs, their Qashqais and Khamseh tribes, are more involved masterfully controlled weave structure, and their in this art than other groups, and the villagers who fine texture. live along with these tribes also produce carpets and other handicrafts. Qashqai Gelims are famous and Gabba: Gabba are hand-woven pile rugs of coarse highly demanded not only in Iran but also around the quality and medium size (90 x 150 cm or larger) world due to the originality of the beautiful patterns, characterised by an abstract design that relies colours, and the excellent quality of the texture. upon open fields of colour and a playfulness with geometry. This kind of rug is common among the Kooch (seasonal migration) tribes of the Zagros (Kurdish, Lori-speaking ethnic groups, Qašqāʾīs). A Gabba is basically the rug of a The word Kooch (Kuch / Kuch / Koch) comes single person, usually a woman, who uses it when from Turkish dialect, and derives from the word travelling from place to place to carry her hearth, for moving, in particular, the moving of a group mašk (goatskin sack for carrying water), loom, from one place to another. Kooch (Transhumance, cradle, etc. (Figure 10). Seasonal Migration) is the act of moving with livestock between summer pasture (Yaylaq) and In Iran, and particularly in Fars province, a major winter pastures (Qishlaq) in search of grasslands for part of the production of nomadic rugs and carpets the livestock. The freedom or necessity of movement is undertaken by nomadic women and girls (Figure through a vast, barren, and beautiful landscape can 11). Nomads don’t usually use maps or patterns for be of major interest in the development of nomad carpet or rug weaving. Designs are often used that tourism. have been passed down from previous generations,

Figure 10: Weaving Gabba with dafe, kerkit or shaneh

Ehsan Kamali, Mehr News Agency

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Figure 11: Two Iranian nomadic women weaving Gelim in a nomadic tent

Mostafa Gorban Movahed, Isna Agency News

This movement is the very epitome of a nomadic Thus, Kooch happens every year. Each tribe always lifestyle. In summer, groups move to higher pastures takes the same migratory route (called IL-Rah), and where the weather is cooler, and in winter they they have their own pastures in which no other tribe come down to the lower valleys. Persian Nomads can stay. They set up their tents in the same places as usually go to the same pastures every single year. the previous year. These sites are called ‘Javargah’ The bigger families have their own pastures and and are marked by stones. nobody else is allowed to camp in their pastures. Kooch varies in length and can be up to 300 km, The smaller families join together to do Kooch, taking from one to six weeks to complete. The for example, brothers or cousins do the journey nomads who have big flocks are the wealthy ones together. Sometimes, in families with small children with more facilities, and they typically travel the or heavily pregnant women, only the nomad men longer routes while doing Kooch. By contrast, those and the livestock undertake traditional Kooch, while who are less fortunate choose the shorter routes the family move in cars. and they usually undertake their migration later in Nomadic seasonal transhumance or Kooch is a the season (Figure 12). Through nomadic tourism, technique of population movement which is done visitors can socialise with these migratory families to accomplish a variety of goals. Changing location during this phenomenon and learn the fundamental in search of grasslands and moving in groups along techniques of the annual travel. ancient nomadic paths which are trodden by feet and hooves for thousands of years, are two of these goals and are outstanding characteristics of nomadic life.

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Sustainable and responsible tourism in organised, could be very fragile – particularly due to nomadic areas the confrontation between urban and rural cultures.

Recently, sustainable tourism in rural settings is the Iran has a substantial nomadic and rural population subject of a growing literature, reflecting interest which represents approximately 29% of the total. amongst academics and industry practitioners from These peoples live in 64,000 villages and settlements both public and private sectors. This is definitely (Iran’s Statistics Centre, 2011), where the principal the case with nomadic tourism in Iran. The negative sources of income are agriculture, fishing, and experience of many unplanned tourist destinations animal husbandry. The economic importance of and the success of local and regional planned tourism has been recognised and valued by the locations demonstrates that tourism development Iranian government and Iran’s Tourism Organization should be based on a planning process that engages (ICHTO). There is some evidence of a trend in with local stakeholders. Thus, for nomadic tourism, Iran where the government is preserving authentic there must be a balance of communication between cultures, using tourism strategies as a tool. Thus, the nomads as hosts and the tourists as guests. In nomadic and rural tourism have become priorities nomadic tourism, the tourist seeks to gain a pure in national tourism policies and are highlighted experience, and the nomads who welcome them in Iran’s Tourism Development and Management seek to share their daily life and ancient culture. Master Plan (1998–2000). Alongside this, other Consequently, tourism in nomadic and rural areas short-term, medium-term, and long-term strategies in Iran, if not extremely carefully planned and have been identified that profess a commitment to sustainable development.

Figure 12: Map of summer and winter pastures

Encyclopedia Iranica (Scholz, Schweizer)

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Recognition of Nomadic People Nomadic Tourism

In 1980, the Ministry of Iran established a permanent The main tourist products offered in the various Nomadic Affairs Organization. The Nomadic Affairs nomadic areas are as follow: Organization of Iran has two main responsibilities: • Migration tours (Kooch tours) with nomads first, to study the status of nomads, revive indigenous • Visiting nomadic villages traditions and cultures, study livestock issues, • Accommodation with nomads ensure the security of seasonal migrations, and • Mountaineering tours in nomadic areas work on social and health services; • Walking tours along ancient paths secondly, cooperation with other relevant organisations, ministries, and executive bodies In Iran there are multiple actors and competitors that are responsible for providing appropriate external to the tribes themselves, and the government services to the nomads. influenced agencies, who are involved in these nomad tours. These can be divided into 4 categories: In the Fifth Development Plan of Iran, Article 114 a. Local guides who individually attract tourists and mentions the need to preserve the traditional, ethnic, organize tours; tribal and national culture and create facilities for the development of the tourism industry in the country. b. Groups that intend to create a platform to connect In order to do this, the government is obliged to local guides and tourists; allocate funds and facilities to establish centres for c. Researcher groups that hold nomadic tours part- the preservation of nomadic and culture. time; Accordingly, memorandums of understanding d. Agencies that include nomadic tours in their have been signed between the Nomadic Affairs overall tours (these tours are generally classic Organization of Iran and the Tourism Organization Iranian tours that meet nomads for one or two for the growth and development of the tourism days). industry in the different nomadic regions of the country. Between the different categories of stakeholders it is vital, going forward that there is a high Some nomadic areas only have minimum facilities level of communication, collaboration and for production and livelihood and are supported by consultation. Successful Iranian models aimed at the Iranian Nomadic Affairs Organisation, in addition the implementation of sustainable and responsible to support from other national executive agencies tourism according to global standards, demands such and assistance programmes. These fragile nomadic consultative engagement. These various groups have areas are in the process of developing infrastructure. undertaken their activities rather successfully to date However, these areas and groups are not capable of and function with acceptable feedback. But, there is implementing complex tourism plans. Although, a need to consider sustainable development models many nomadic tribes have the capacity to implement in the future of nomad tourism in Iran. Fundamental such strategies, due to their scale and the more to this is the role played by the organisations and complex nature of their basic infrastructure. Among individuals who act as mediators between the tribal the various groups, the Qashqai and Bakhtiari tribes groups and the tourists. have changed less than others – this is due to the pristine and inaccessible nature of their habitat in the The tour guides who promote and operationalise the southwestern region of the . various elements of nomadic tourism, need to be fully aware of the potential environmental, economic

~ 74 ~ International Journal of Tour Guiding Research Volume 2(i) 2021 and social results of the various interactions between Due to the rapid growth of modern societies and tourist and host, and must suitably plan for the changes in living conditions, Iranian nomads mitigation of any negative impacts have turned to agriculture, horticulture, handicraft products, and tourism as complementary economic The development of nomad tourism is not limited to activities. Their survival strategies have shaped the plans mentioned in this paper. It is much wider, their existence, preserving a unique lifestyle with deeper, and needs to be studied, investigated, and a multitude of adaptations between nomadism, commented on by experts. All of these actions call ruralism, and urban life. Despite the difficulties of for the comprehensive engagement of all the centers the nomadic life of these tribes in Iran, the simplicity and communities that play a role in tourism in Iran, and lucidity of their lifestyle make them attractive in and the nomadic world. We argue that the challenges the eyes of outsiders. regarding the sustainable development of tourism in Iran’s nomadic areas are transnational in nature In recent decades there has been a substantial and trans-institutional in solution. They cannot diversification in international tourism destinations, be addressed by individuals, government(s), or and many developing countries like Iran have institution(s) acting alone. They require international registered phenomenal growth in tourist arrivals and communication and creative collaborative action receipts. There must be a balance of communication between all stakeholders - individuals, , between the nomads as host and the tourists as international organisations, corporations, guests. In nomadic tourism, the tourist seeks to gain universities and NGOs (Noroozi 2021). a pure experience, and the nomads who welcome them seek to share their daily life and pure culture, Conclusion without having to change. For this reason, tourism in nomadic and rural areas has enormous potential, A nomad is a person with no settled home, moving but, if not very carefully planned and organised, the systematically from place to place as a way of ‘product’ could be very fragile. The relationship obtaining food, finding pasture for livestock, or between such disparate urban and rural cultures, otherwise making a living. Iranian nomads maintain need not be one of conflict or destruction, but with a diversity of cultures and forms of social and suitable planning, the differences and contrasts political organisation which should be considered between these worlds, could be leveraged to the as a potential capacity in the development of benefit of both cultures. nomadic tourism. According to the Iranian Nomadic Organization, there are 17 important tribes with a population of over 2000 families. In the main, animal husbandry is the most important activity of these Iranian nomads up to the present day.

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