CALIFORNIA JOB EXODUS?/2 M&S SETS FAST FASHION/2 WWWDomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • March 19, 2004 • $2.00 Beauty Rinse Cycle NEW YORK — Procter & Gamble Co. claims to have invented a new category to jump-start the lackluster personal cleansing market. Olay Moisturinse In Shower Body Lotion is a moisturizer designed to be applied in the shower, eliminating the usual after-bath application. P&G touts this as a beauty first. Moisturinse, which will arrive on mass retail shelves in June, could generate $35 million to $45 million its first year. For more, see page 11.

Kmart Back in the Black and Rumors Swirl About Its Future By Vicki M. Young and Kate Bowers over a Kmart-Sears merger, while characterized the news as the “first NEW YORK — Call it the Kmart surprise. also raising another critical question: signs” of the company’s efforts to With its first profitable quarter in Where’s the chief merchandiser? “build a professional management three years and a hot stock, Kmart Asked if Kmart’s first profitable team and establish the fundamentals Holding Corp. is back on the retail quarter in three years symbolized a for an effective and efficient retail radar, which reignited speculation turnaround, spokesman Jack Ferry See Kmart, Page 12 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY BRYN KENNY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 19, 2004 WWDFRIDAY M&S Set for Fast Fashion Beauty By Ellen Burney chief executive, said in a state- that needed particular atten- ment, “Per Una offers our cus- tion, although it noted that Per GENERAL BEAUTY: Procter & Gamble has concocted a body lotion that’s applied in LONDON — Marks & Spencer is tomers a clear choice of styles Una was one of the more suc- preparing for an injection of and ensures that we will always cessful collections. 11 the shower — and doesn’t wash off. youth serum. have something fresh and cre- As reported, the company Kmart’s first profitable quarter in three years put it back on the retail radar The retailer plans to build on ative to offer.” promoted Vittorio Radice, head 1 and reignited speculation over a Kmart/Sears merger. the success of its Per Una clothing Per Una is available in 160 of the home division, to the post line, with the launch of Per Una Marks & Spencer stores across of executive director for general A survey among California ceo’s reveals that 40 percent plan to move jobs Due, an edgy line for women in the U.K. and will be added to merchandise. 2 out of the state, calling it an “unfriendly” business climate. their late teens to early 30s. The another five stores in March. “We know we’ve made mis- Marks & Spencer is preparing for an injection of youth serum and plans to launch also will signal the store’s “They need to experiment in takes in our clothing area,” said 2 launch a younger line, Per Una Due clothing, building on its Per Una line. debut in the world of fast fashion, as the line will be refreshed and They are entering territory that is Profits for Charming Shoppes more than doubled to $10.1 million, or 9 updated every two months. 14 cents a diluted share, scorching Wall Street’s forecast by 6 cents. Per Una Due will be designed “fiercely competitive and occupied by SUZY: Preserving Venice from up on the roof...Brad’s tough spot...Pierce by the high-street legend George 4 and the next Bond flick...Hot spots in Vancouver, a.k.a. Hollywood North. Davies, who launched Per Una in companies like H&M, Zara, Topshop 2001 after founding the George Classified Advertisements...... 15 clothing line at Asda and building and Mango. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is the fashion retail chain Next. The [email protected], using the individual's name. first collection, which will bow on ”— George Wallace, Management Horizons May 6 in 65 M&S stores across the WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. U.K., will feature drainpipe developing their clothing range,” Sue Sadler, corporate press man- VOLUME 187, NO. 58. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional jeans, pleated miniskirts, slash- said George Wallace, ceo of the ager. “Vittorio is going to be ex- issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three detail T-shirts and accessories. London-based consultancy Man- amining where changes need to additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 A retro sports look will follow agement Horizons. “But they are be made, and how to make aspi- West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, later in the season with brightly entering territory that is fiercely rational products for our midmar- Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior colored bomber jackets, print competitive and occupied by ket customers.” Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- spaghetti-strap tops and Hot- companies like H&M, Zara, Top- In January, M&S saw clothing President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at Pants. Further branches are set shop and Mango. and footwear sales drop 3.3 per- additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. to open in September. “They are leaping into a value- cent, year-over-year, during the POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. Eager to build on Per Una’s driven territory — it’s a very 15 weeks preceding Jan. 10 — FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR “already considerable success to brave, ambitious experiment.” the crucial Christmas season — DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is reach a younger audience,” This month, M&S manage- with women’s wear the worst- required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production Roger Holmes, the company’s ment said clothing was an area performing area. correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND Nike Hits Its Stride CEO’s: Calif. TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE With 61% Net Gain Is ‘Unfriendly’ ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. By Vicki M. Young Europe, Asia and the Americas For Business In Brief regions were partly attributable NEW YORK — Thumbs-up for to currency exchange rates. Nike Inc. The company said worldwide By Nola Sarkisian-Miller ● KARAN MOVES: Anjali Lewis, formerly vice president of glob- The Beaverton, Ore.-based futures orders for delivery be- al marketing and communications at Donna Karan firm on Thursday posted a 61 tween March and July of $4.7 bil- LOS ANGELES — Call it a re- International, has been promoted to senior vice president. In ad- percent jump in third-quarter lion represents a 9.9 percent in- verse gold rush. dition, Aliza Licht, former senior public relations director, has earnings and shot up 181 per- crease from a year ago. Futures Nearly 40 percent of compa- been elevated to the new post of vice president of global public cent in income for the nine orders for the U.S., which record- nies in California plan to move relations. Licht continues to report to Lewis, who reports to months. ed its strongest gain in eight jobs out of state, according to a Patti Cohen, executive vice president of global marketing and In the three months ended quarters, were up 4.5 percent, study released by consulting firm communications at DKI. Feb. 29, income rose to $200.3 while Europe grew by 11 percent. Bain & Co. million, or 74 cents a diluted In Asia Pacific, orders jumped 23 Prepared for the California ● KOREAN GROWTH: The booming Korean apparel manufac- share, from $124.7 million, or 47 percent, while the Americas in- Business Roundtable, a nonprof- turing community in Los Angeles continues to grow. A building cents, in the same year-ago quar- creased by 11 percent. Some of it organization comprising chief dedicated to showroom and office space is scheduled to open ter. Revenues gained 21 percent the growth is attributed to cur- executives of the state’s business- May 1 at 600 East Washington Boulevard. Called the GS Mart or to $2.9 billion from $2.4 billion. rency exchange rates. es, the California Competitive- the Garment Supply Wholesale Mart, the 120,000-square-foot Philip H. Knight, chairman Don Blair, chief financial offi- ness Project study analyzed in- structure will offer between 500 and 1,000 showrooms, according and chief executive officer, said cer, said during a conference call terviews conducted with ceo’s to real estate agent Edward Lee. Unlike the apparel-focused San in a statement, “It was another that the company’s financial and senior decision-makers at 50 Pedro Wholesale Mart down the street, the two-story GS Mart great quarter for Nike. Top- and goals for fiscal 2005 were high- companies, ranging in size from will pursue vendor supplier tenants, like those who work in bottom-line results were again single-digit revenue growth, ex- those with revenues of $1.5 mil- trims, fabrics and accessories, along with service providers. driven by healthy consumer de- panding profit margins and in- lion to $90 billion. Their unani- “Sounds like it won’t be competition to us,” said Kee Kwon, mand for innovative products creased capital productivity and mous view of the state’s business property manager of the San Pedro Wholesale Mart, which is and the strength of Nike’s di- cash flow. Assuming a stable for- climate? Unfriendly. fully occupied with a waiting list. “Suppliers have been scat- verse portfolio of businesses.” eign exchange environment, he The study cites that the most tered in this industry, so this may help.” The GS Mart, a venture U.S. apparel revenues rose 7 said, the company believes it can likely jobs to flee the state are by Los Angeles-based Diamond’s Apparel owner Young Joo, is percent and represented $329.3 grow worldwide revenues in the those in “mobile sectors,” such about 15 percent leased, Lee said. million of total U.S. revenues, “mid- to high-single digits.” The as in engineering, computer pro- which increased 4 percent to company will invest in driving its gramming and manufacturing, ● ADIDAS SPONSORSHIP: While Adidas America is ending its $1.17 billion from $1.13 billion. business through marketing cam- including the apparel and tex- sponsorship deal with the U.S. Olympic Committee, parent com- The bulk of the balance of rev- paigns surrounding the Tour de tiles industry, where employ- pany Adidas-Salomon AG said Wednesday it was named an offi- enues comes from athletic France, European football cham- ment and the base of operations cial sponsor of the Athens 2004 Olympic Games. Under the footwear and equipment sales. pionships and the summer can be staggered. And, heading agreement with the organizing committee for the Olympic In the European region, which Olympics in Athens. For the first to cheaper labor countries isn’t Games, Adidas will provide uniforms for the Olympic workforce, includes the Middle East and quarter, Blair said revenue always the first choice: 60 per- including all volunteers and the Olympic staff, as well as uni- Africa, apparel revenues rose 19 growth will be in the “midteens,” cent of planned relocations are forms for volunteers and athletes in the torch relay. Adidas also percent to $284.1 million. Total with the quarter benefiting from within the U.S., including other currently outfits 21 national Olympic teams, including Germany, European revenues grew 36 per- the acquisition of Converse and Western states, such as Texas. France and Cuba, and works with individual athletes. cent to $880 million, up from favorable exchange rates. Indeed, apparel manufactur- $645.8 million. Apparel rev- For the nine months, income ing here isn’t showing signs of ● SHOW ME STORE: Belk Inc., the nation’s largest privately enues in the Asia Pacific region spiked up 181 percent to $640.6 growth. In the state, there were held department store company, will make its debut in the were up 30 percent to $150.1 million, or $2.38, from $227.8 84,700 apparel manufacturing Missouri market with the opening of a store in Branson in spring million, while total revenues in million, or 85 cents, a year ago. jobs as of February, a decrease of 2006. The Charlotte, N.C.-based retailer said the store, to be Asia grew 21 percent to $402.4 Revenues rose 14 percent to of 7,400 jobs from last year. located at Branson Landing, pending the negotiation and signing million from $331.6 million last $8.77 billion from $7.71 billion. Textile mills in California em- of a final lease, will offer leading brands of fashion apparel, ac- year. In the Americas, apparel Separately, Nike said it ployed 12,600 in February, down cessories, cosmetics, shoes and home goods, as well as exclusive revenues gained 21 percent to bought 754,900 shares of compa- by 800 jobs from February 2003. Belk private brands. With 66,000-square-feet of space, the $36 million, with total revenues ny stock for $53.6 million as part “The cost of doing business in Branson location will be about 10 percent larger than the aver- in the region rising 26 percent to of its repurchase program an- California is 30 percent higher age Belk store. $135 million. The gains in nounced in June 2000. Continued on page 12 ©2004 Elizabeth Arden, Inc. ©2004 Elizabeth Arden, Based on 4 weeks of consumer testing. *

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Bruckheimer, has been busy — and not just being a Hollywood wife. In April, “The Southern Belles of Honeysuckle Way,” the sequel to her best-selling novel, “Dreaming Southern,” will hit shelves across the country. The story follows a pair of Los Angeles-based sisters as they make their way back home to Kentucky. Faced with developers, a crime wave and the wear-and- tear of time, the girls shake off the delusion of Hollywood as they rejuvenate themselves with the virtues of small-town life, proving once again there’s no place like home. Home to Linda now is Los Angeles but the Kentucky native could not agree more — so much so that she has been busy buying and restoring nearly a whole town in Bloomfield, Ky. To celebrate her book, Mrs B. is planning a travel schedule that would rival any Hollywood promotional tour. In Los Angeles, Jerry Bruckheimer, along with Jeffrey and Marilyn Katzenberg, will give the first launch party for the author at L’Orangerie for several hundred of their friends. Then it’s off to Washington, D.C., where Lynda Carter and Robert Altman will welcome her, followed by a stop in New York, where Blaine and Robert Trump will celebrate her and the book at Elaine’s. The governor of Kentucky, Ernie Fletcher, is next to have her at a party in her home state, where the Bruckheimers will then host a soirée of their own, the chicest Kentucky Derby party maybe ever seen. Not that this has anything to do with anything, but Linda Bruckheimer is almost never seen if she’s not wearing Chanel. ● The chic blonde Ford sisters, Charlotte and Anne, real heiresses as opposed to the ersatz variety, were honored by the American Cancer Society as “Mothers of the Year 2004,” at a fine luncheon on the St. Regis Roof. ACS saluted the philanthropic twosome for “their remarkable leadership, tireless commitment and dedicated services to the community.” And rightfully so. Anyone who knows Charlotte and Anne knows no recognition could be more deserved. They are not only devoted mothers to their children, Elena (Charlotte’s) and Suzy Drew Barrymore Alessandro and Allegra (Anne’s), but doting grandmothers and By Aileen Mehle MARY HILLIARD WIREIMAGE; PRINCESS MICHAEL OF KENT BY BARRYMORE PHOTO BY “the best babysitters” to Catching Up With the Parties: It was a big, Not to be missed were Marchese and Charlotte, Callie, Alessandro, beautiful night on the St. Regis Roof, a Marchesa Alberto Berlingieri; Sybilla Clark; Annabelle and Eleanor. celebration for those who love glorious Kathleen Hearst; Mary McFadden; Alexis New York’s First Lady, Libby eye® Venice and want to keep it that way. Gregory; Countess Andrea zu Herberstein; Pataki,made the award Venetian Heritage was giving its annual Prince Dmitri of Yugoslavia; the John presentation and the co- benefit for friends and supporters, an early spring Heimanns, and on and on into the night. As chairmen — the sisters’ close serenade with handsome Thomas Hampson singing they say in Venice, it was a bella notte. friends — were Diana Feldman, gems by Cole Porter in honor of Her Serene Highness ● Tina Sloane-McPherson, Topsy Princess Marianne zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Sayn, known Drew Barrymore is making such good use Taylor and Melinda vanden to international society as Mani. After the concert, of the world’s seemingly endless new Heuvel. Proud members of the there was a dinner and dance in honor of Her Royal technology. Brainy Drew and a friend went Ford family were there to cheer Highness Princess Michael of Kent, Dr. Charles into a Victoria’s Secret boutique in California Charlotte and Anne on, including Princess Michael of Kent Ryskamp and Lee Thaw, recognizing their great last week with one of those cell phones that Princess Michael of Kent brother Edsel Ford II; his wife, contributions to the preservation and restoration of double as a camera, a present for Drew’s Cynthia; Elena Ford, and Joe Venice’s great monuments. Princess Michael was a 29th birthday. Drew then proceeded to try on the Rippolone. Edsel, who gives great speeches, said he striking figure in drifting black chiffon, Dr. Ryskamp sexiest lingerie the store had to offer while her friend was thrilled to be a part of it all, but now he regrets that wore a nondrifting black dinner jacket and Lee Thaw took pictures and e-mailed them to Drew’s rock star he will be the only Ford sibling who will never be a stood out in a fabulous azalea satin gown made just for boyfriend, Fabrizio Moretti, who plays with The Mother of the Year! Ha ha ha! That Edsel! her by Carolina Herrera. Strokes. Fabrizio, in theory anyhow, was then able to ● Patricia Patterson, also in drifting black chiffon, this tell his sweetie which underwear he wanted to see her Justin Timberlake just hit Vancouver to make his first one with beads, was the gracious chairman of the in that night. Help! big movie. He’ll play a reporter in “Edison” with Kevin evening, which brought out so many of those people ● Spacey and Morgan Freeman. Justin laid out $60,000 to you know or think you know all sitting down to a repast Pierce Brosnan, who turned 50 last May, may or may rent a house for two months to ensure privacy when his of risotto, rack of lamb and vanilla ice cream on top of not star in the new James Bond film due next year and girlfriend, Cameron Diaz, comes to visit. Vancouver is a crepes. “So yummy,” they all said between bites. tentatively titled “Everything or Nothing.” Will he be hotbed of what insiders now call Hollywood North. Everyone was there: Larry Lovett, who is Mr. replaced with a younger 007? According to the small Opus, the town’s sizzling new boutique hotel, has Venetian Heritage himself, with a palazzo in Venice to print in his contract, Brosnan was only “optioned” to housed such guests as Jason Priestley and Timothy show for it; Mrs. Donald Miller, the chairman of VH; make one more Bond film, meaning he would do it if Hutton, who are now making movies there. Others Trevor Traina of the San Francisco Trainas (he is producers still wanted him to. They will be hard- passing through of late include Jennifer Lopez, Cher and Danielle Steel’s son); Jane and Peter Marino; Doda pressed to find someone as successful as Pierce, who is Christina Aguilera. Catherine Zeta-Jones was in town Voridis, in from Athens in cream lace and the creamy one of the best Bonds ever and has played the role since recently filming a T-Mobile ad. Many of the stars have Voridis pearls; Kitty Carlisle Hart in a short confection 1995 and made millions at the box office. The star is made the quick trip to Whistler to go skiing, including that showed off her showable legs; Judy and Alfred said to be not unhappy at the probable prospect. Friends Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston, who are heating up the Taubman; Gale Hayman-Haseltine; Princess Firyal of say he has always felt that Roger Moore, who quit when slopes. Queen Latifah, Hilary Swank and her husband, Jordan in ruby red satin; Christine and Stephen he was 58, did one too many Bonds. Who will be the Chad Lowe, and Halle Berry, on her own, all checked in Schwarzman; the Honorable Anne Cox Chambers; next sexy spy? Jude Law, Christian Bale, Orlando the Chateau Fairmont, which sits right on the mountain Isabella del Frate Rayburn; Pierre Durand; Barbara de Bloom, Colin Farrell, Clive Owen or Hugh Jackman? Or making skiing in and out easy. Christian Slater and Seal Portago; Princess Alexandra of Greece; Daisy and Paul will Pierce go for it just one more time? jumped on Whistler’s heli-skiing choppers for the Soros; Carroll Petrie; Mario Buatta — and that was just ● ultimate powder skiing on glaciers 9,000 feet in the sky. the beginning. Linda Bruckheimer, the wife of megaproducer Jerry Yodeleeheehee! WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 19, 2004 5 Fashion Scoops Sawgrass Mills Expands for Designer Outlets A rendering of The Colonnade Outlets at Sawgrass. THE COUTURE STORE: Ina already had its field day with “Sex and the City” castoffs. Now Versace is getting into the act, having shipped over the couture gown worn by Sarah Jessica Parker in the next-to-last episode of the series, the one with 10,000 ruffles she wore while strewn across a bed in a Paris hotel. The dress was installed on Thursday just inside Versace’s Fifth Avenue flagship, where the store is entertaining a sale of the original sample, as well as taking orders for the custom-made dress. Although Versace has reportedly had more than 10 inquiries from potential customers, there was no word on just how many will go for the price — estimated at roughly $79,000. Just like at the shows, the original is expected to sell for about half that. PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY

DOUBLE TAKE: It would seem that Barneys has a stable full of muses in its offices. First, denim twins Chip & Pepper named a pair of jeans after fashion director Julie Gilhart — now, a model bearing a striking resemblance to Judy Collinson, the store’s executive By David Moin nated area featuring a concen- ing treatments will change as vice president and general tration of designer and high-end customers go from one shopping merchandise manager, graces the NEW YORK — The Mills Corp. is outlets. It’s possible similar ad- area to the next. While having a pages of its spring catalogue. getting serious about designer ditions would one day be consid- wide mix of retailers — more “Judy Collinson is our muse for outlets. ered for other locations, but the than 400, including Neiman the Barneys New York catalogue,” On Thursday, the real estate spokeswoman said Mills is cur- Marcus Last Call, Nordstrom said creative director Simon Doonan. developer unveiled a plan to rently not planning any others. Rack, Off 5th, Bed Bath & “It’s her brainchild, she gives birth to open a 110,000-square-foot addi- Sawgrass Mills, which Beyond and Target Greatland, as Atelier Versace is offering a couture it every season. She’s known for a tion — The Colonnade Outlets at opened in 1990, also said it will well as Legal Sea Foods, gown seen on “Sex and the City.” slightly severe intellectual personal Sawgrass — to its Sawgrass Mills be renovated. The company de- Wolfgang Puck Café, The style. [And in the spread], it’s as if shopping center in Sunrise, Fla. clined to specify how much is Cheesecake Factory and Regal Lana Turner and C.Z. Guest gave Judy a makeover. It’s the essence of Judy The Colonnade will feature being spent on the construction 23 Cinemas — it’s also challeng- with a little Lana and a little C.Z.” Mediterranean architecture, and enhancements. The renova- ing to see it all. From one end of fountains, restaurants and plazas, tion of the center begins this the mall to the other is approxi- and an undetermined number of week and will be completed by mately 1.5 miles. high-end and designer outlets in Thanksgiving. Plans for The The renovations will take an open-air setting. No tenants Colonnade were submitted to place after normal operating have signed leases yet, but dis- the City of Sunrise this month, hours to ensure minimal disrup- cussions are under way, accord- formally initiating the city’s 90- tion to shoppers. ing to a Mills spokeswoman. day approval process. Sawgrass Mills is at the cross- Sawgrass is considered Sawgrass Mills, opened in roads of West Sunrise Boulevard Florida’s largest retail and enter- 1990, will undergo an eight- and Flamingo Road, 10 miles tainment center. With Colonnade, month renovation involving re- west of Fort Lauderdale and 30 it grows to 2.3 million leasable placing sections of the floor and miles from Miami-Dade and square feet. carpeting, adding lighting to Palm Beach. Mills Corp., based Some Mills centers do have a common areas, painting com- in Arlington, Va., is a real estate few upscale outlets, such as Max mon areas, adding seating, re- investment trust that owns, de- Mara, Escada, Hugo Boss, St. modeling restrooms and food velops, leases, manages and John Knits and Tod’s, but courts and installing directional markets a portfolio of 27 retail Sawgrass Mills will be the first signs. To further make the mall and entertainment destinations in the portfolio to have a desig- easier to navigate, floor and ceil- totaling 34 million square feet. Jigsaw Bringing British Fashion to America By David Moin to mark their entry into the U.S. 9, a men’s wear retailer in For example, Hennes & Mauritz Chicago’s Bucktown neighbor- The real Judy Collinson and the Barneys New York catalogue version. NEW YORK — Jigsaw is coming launched its U.S. chain with a hood selling such brands as Jack to America. rousing opening on Fifth Spade and Paul Smith, has cho- RIDING WITH FORD: Ford Models has The London-based vertical Avenue and 52nd Street in sen the mart for its second loca- signed Tilda Swinton — she of the retailer of high-end women’s Manhattan. But Rosenfeld ex- tion, Rosenfeld noted. stunning cheekbones and current and girls apparel, sometimes plained, “Jigsaw always elects to Jigsaw is considered one of Viktor & Rolf muse. Turns out, the compared with Banana go to the neighborhoods where Britain's leading bridge retailers actress and Neal Hamil, Ford’s Republic, has signed leases to their customer lives, rather than and has about 40 stores in the executive vice president, share the open two boutiques in the the high-profile streets. I expect U.K., and a few in other countries same personal attorney, who Brentwood Country Mart, a they’ll grow regionally in Los such as Ireland, Holland and suggested she find proper high-end, intimate center in Los Angeles first, and then go to Japan. Recently, Jigsaw launched representation outside the Angeles with about 45 shops and other urban areas in the U.S.” Kew, a lower-priced line. Hollywood circle. Hamil, meanwhile, 30,000 square feet for retail. According to Edward John Robinson started is a big fan and signing her was a One of the stores will be a Atterton, president of Jigsaw in Jigsaw about 30 years ago. It no-brainer. “I’m kind of infatuated 1,500-square-foot unit for the the U.S., “Jigsaw has historically prospered by opening small with her,” he said. He’ll filter the Jigsaw women’s collection. The always grown very organically stores of up to 2,000 square feet proper advertising, endorsements other unit will be a 500-square-foot and very slowly and will do in major cities and towns in and editorial gigs for her. “I’m Jigsaw Jr. boutique for girls. Both things in a very measured way. Britain. Jigsaw took a major looking for Tilda to do a beauty or are seen opening in the summer We came to Los Angeles really step up in March 1996 when it some really groovy fashion or early fall, and are practically to feel out the U.S.” His sister, opened its 6,000-square-foot campaign,” he says. “With those adjacent, separated by a hallway. Belle Atterton, runs Jigsaw Jr. flagship on London’s New Bond shoulders, long neck and gorgeous James S. Rosenfeld, owner of The Brentwood Country Street. The privately owned legs, she’s a natural clothes hanger.” the Brentwood Country Mart, Mart, which features high-end company is vertically struc- Outside of the modeling world, Ford Tilda Swinton’s Ford promo card. disclosed the news about Jigsaw specialty shops and food pur- tured, meaning it maintains now reps model-turned-heartthrob Trent Ford, Olympic skier Jeremy Bloom exclusively to WWD on Thursday. veyors, is undergoing a renova- total control of design, manufac- and publishing heiress Lydia Hearst-Shaw, who just shot a cover and 16 Rosenfeld wears a second hat as tion and some remerchandising, turing, distribution and stores. inside pages with Steven Meisel for Italian Vogue. national director of retail servic- including new lighting and valet It doesn’t wholesale its line. Its es for the U.S. operations of parking with an expanded park- emphasis is on casualwear. EXECUTIVE SUIT: Stan Herman, president of the Council of Fashion Cushman & Wakefield. Richard ing lot. The center is two-thirds Some U.S. developers have Designers of America, is being honored Wednesday for his contributions Green, president of the Westfield leased, and stores average $750 been aware of Jigsaw and have to Career Gear, a charity that supplies interview-appropriate suits, shoes Corp., also owns part of to $1,000 in sales per square been trying to lure the brand and counseling to men who need help getting back into the workforce for Brentwood Country Mart. foot, Rosenfeld said. into their malls. The Rouse Co., various reasons, similar to women’s programs like the Bottomless Closet Rosenfeld projected that With its upscale and Early for example, has reportedly and Dress for Success. Also being honored at the event at the NASDAQ Jigsaw could post $2 million in American, New England appeal, been after Jigsaw for certain of MarketSite is Silverstein Properties for donating office space to Career annual sales with both stores the Brentwood Country Mart is its properties, including The Gear, which counts Brooks Brothers and Men’s Wearhouse among its combined. pulling in some quality but less- Village at Merrick Park in Coral major supporters. Usually, retailers from over- er-known retail tenants, aside Gables, Fla., and The Fashion seas pick high-profile locations from Jigsaw. Apartment Number Show mall in Las Vegas. 6 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 19, 2004 The Beauty Report

Chanel’s new Aqualumière lipstick line launches Beshlian Named Prescriptives VP in May. NEW YORK — Lisa Beshlian has been named vice president and national sales manager, North America, of the Prescriptives division of The Estée Lauder Cos. She will assume her new position on March 31. In her new role, Beshlian will lead all national sales activities and training for the brand, and will report to Lynne Greene, president, specialty brands, for Lauder. Beshlian succeeds Terry Darland, who joined LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton last month as senior vice president of marketing, sales and sales education for Christian Dior Perfumes Inc. While she had been at Lancôme since 1982, Beshlian began her career as a beauty adviser for the Lauder brand. At Lancôme, Beshlian was most recently field vice president of sales, southeast region, for the brand. During her tenure at Lancôme, Beshlian also held a variety of sales positions, including vice president of specialty stores and national accounts. “Lisa brings a huge depth and breadth of knowledge to her new position,” Greene told WWD Thursday. “I have always admired her professionalism and determination.” Greene and Beshlian have worked together in the past, when both were at Lancôme. — J.N.

Jurlique Creates Men’s Collection NEW YORK — Jurlique wants to make its Jurlique for Men, which targets men ages 30 mark in the men’s category. Next month, the to 45 years old, ranges in price from $30 for the Australian treatment brand will begin 125-ml. shower gel to $65 for the 100-ml. face Chanel’s New Lips rolling out a collection of eight men’s prod- and body moisturizer. It has been in develop- ucts to its worldwide distribution network of ment for more than two years. “The market is some 5,000 doors. now right for it,” Wuttke remarked, noting that NEW YORK — Chanel is adding a little shine to its lip color business The new men’s line, called — naturally 95 percent of the herbs used in Jurlique’s full this spring. enough — Jurlique for Men, includes a foam- assortment of 250 products are grown on com- Aqualumière, the brand’s newest lipstick franchise, is intended to ing face cleanser, an herbal antioxidant pany-owned organic and biodynamic farms in give lips shine, hydration and protection, noted Jean Hoehn moisturizer, a face and body moisturizing lo- Australia. The Jurlique for Men deodorant, for Zimmerman, executive vice president of marketing and sales for fra- tion, a shampoo and shower gel, a condition- instance, contains witch hazel and sage and the grance and beauté for Chanel Inc. er, an herbal shaving gel, an shaving gel contains spilanthes for “We see this formula as a bridge between gloss and lipstick,” she herbal after shave and an antibacterial benefits, as does the said, noting that the new lip lineup will be Chanel’s sheerest lip- herbal deodorant. face and body moisturizing lotion. stick line. “It offers the high shine of a gloss, but the staying power “We have never serious- For antioxidant benefits, the line of lipstick.” ly marketed a line to men,” uses tumeric, green tea and Hoehn Zimmerman noted that Chanel’s lip category business is said Mark Wuttke, presi- grape seed extracts. Additionally, up 15 percent and its Glossimer lip gloss business is up 35 percent. dent of Atlanta-based Jur- Jurlique for Men employs a “We feel like we’re building on several strengths with this new lique USA Inc. “There’s lemon-scented tea tree oil. line,” she said. more and more demand Moving forward, “There’s The lipstick formula includes SPF 15, intended to protect for men’s skin care items the potential for another three against sun damage; shea butter, intended to moisturize, and a pro- today,” he added. “What or four men’s items in the fore- prietary “volume booster,” which is intended to thicken the dermis we’ve had is a catapult of seeable future,” Wuttke said. and give lips a plumped-up look. The product contains vitamins B interest from men [who Jurlique’s 5,000 doors world- and E as well. are] more aware of how wide include 75 freestanding The Aqualumière assortment will comprise 15 shades, each named they appear, their confi- Some of Jurlique’s new men’s line. boutiques, some of which began for an exotic locale — for instance, Portofino is a rich burgundy, dence in how they carry carrying Jurlique for Men earli- Acapulco is a bright pink and Ipanema is a refined beige. Each shade themselves and the health of their skin.” er this month. Sixteen of Jurlique’s freestand- will retail for $23. Jurlique for Men could generate first-year ing stores are in the U.S. and each of these The full lineup will be available in May in about 800 U.S. depart- retail sales in excess of $2 million in the U.S., units has anywhere between one and three pri- ment and specialty stores, as well as online at gloss.com and sepho- according to industry sources. Within the next vate rooms for facials and body treatments. ra.com. It will launch internationally at the same time. three or four years, men’s products could gen- The brand’s wholesale distribution network In the U.S., advertising breaks in May fashion, beauty and lifestyle erate between 15 and 20 percent of the in the U.S., which will receive Jurlique for Men magazines, including Allure, Elle, In Style, Jane and W. Advertising brand’s total sales, Wuttke noted, with much next month, includes about 150 resort, destina- for the lipstick will include spreads at launch; single-page ads sup- of that growth expected to occur in the U.S. tion and day spa doors — a number that’s down porting the product will also be placed in national magazines during Sources project that Jurlique’s total retail over the past 18 months from about 450 doors the second half of 2004, said Hoehn Zimmerman. sales will reach $222.4 million for the 12 due to retrenching efforts. During the contrac- While Hoehn Zimmerman declined to comment on projected sales months ending in June, up more than 35 per- tion, however, sales in the U.S. grew 200 per- or advertising spending for Aqualumière, industry sources estimated cent. Sales figures have been converted at cent, according to Wuttke. “The [doors] we’re in that the collection would do upward of $5 million at retail in the U.S. current exchange rates and are for Australia. do extremely well with us,” he said, adding, in its first year at counter and that about $2 million would be spent on About 7 percent of Jurlique’s total business is “we’re taking the U.S. very seriously.” advertising and promotion this year. generated in the U.S. — Matthew W. Evans —Julie Naughton PHOTOS GEORGE CHINSEE BY Essie Cosmetics to Launch New Nail Products Line NEW YORK — Essie Cosmetics founder Essie million at retail globally in their first year on counter. New items Weingarten has aspirations of nailing down more Weingarten is also keeping an eye on international beauty business this year. from Essie markets. Her products are currently available in Weingarten, who founded the nail care business Cosmetics. about 50 countries, including Japan, Canada, that bears her name in 1981, is laying the groundwork Australia and most of the nations of Europe and for expanding her already established international South America. The brand’s U.S. distribution cur- business — and also plans to add a line of ancillary rently includes more than 50,000 salons and spas, in- products for manicures later this month. cluding Bliss, Canyon Ranch and the Golden Door. The company is arguably best known for Ballet Internationally, the brand is sold through distribu- Slippers, a pale pink nail polish that is ubiquitous on tors. Although the brand has a Web site, it does not nail stations around the globe. But while the compa- feature e-commerce. ny produces upwards of 200 shades and introduces Japan, one of the first global markets for the new colors every 90 days, Weingarten is hoping to be- brand, continues to be one of its strongest interna- come equally well-known for her new line. tional businesses, said Weingarten, who also has aspi- The five-item collection includes Nail Wipes, $14, rations of expanding her Asian business into China. a container of tissues impregnated with polish re- moisturizer, and The Crystal File, $12, a crystal nail “I’d like to be in every country,” said Weingarten, who mover; Nail Pads, $10, lint-free pads intended to be file which is intended to keep natural nails from was recently named to Cosmetics Executive Women’s used in tandem with polish remover; The Nail splitting and peeling. 2004 Achiever Award list. “International nail busi- Corrector, $12, a tool that is designed to clean excess Although Weingarten wouldn’t comment on pro- ness is booming; the category is growing in impor- polish from the sides of nails during or after a mani- jected sales for the new products, industry sources es- tance globally. The world is getting smaller.” cure; The Cuticle Pen, $12, a cuticle softener and timated that the five new products would do about $10 —J.N.

8 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 19, 2004 The Beauty Report

Fred Langhammer, Aerin Lauder and Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne. German Market Seeks Some Sizzle

By Melissa Drier Germany, five years ago. We wanted to tell the consumer that they could go to a perfumery and FRANKFURT — In Germany, the price ain’t right. find something not to be found elsewhere. But it’s Faced with often brutal price competition and so sad that [the concept] is being diluted by some with margins suffering, the German beauty mar- makers,” said Schnitzler. ket is actively searching for new ways to shake What needs to change in the German fra- the nation’s consumers out of their bargain-hunt- grance market? “The fun has to come back,” he ing fervor. responded. “And from the trade side, the recog- As evidenced at Beauty World, the four-day nition that stores shouldn’t carry everything. Out trade fair that closed here March 8, manufactur- of 1,500 retailers, we have maybe 20 that carry ers are hoping to emphasize special events, our entire assortment.” niche products and services, instead of just spe- The fair in itself took on something of a niche cial or discount offers in the year ahead. character, due to the absence of the major inter- Cosmopolitan Cosmetics, one of the few big fra- national producers. For the first time, Beauty grance houses showing in Frankfurt, used the World ran concurrently with Lifetime (for the PHOTOS BY KEITH SMITH PHOTOS BY fair as a teaser platform for its Max Mara joint professional spa and wellness industry), venture fragrance to be launched later this year. Passione (personal accessories) and Cosmetica There was not a bottle of the new scent to be (for cosmetic institutes and beauty salons), as Bousquet-Chavanne seen, let alone a sample of the juice. Instead, opposed to the consumer goods fairs Paper World Cosmopolitan staged a Max Mara fashion show, and Christmas World in January. While the new, and retailers could fill out postcards, which modern halls were lauded, the prestige sector would ensure them more detailed information lacked critical mass in terms of key brands pres- Honored by Pratt about the new fragrance closer to the launch date. ent, and the positioning often left something to “People see so many products, and we wanted be desired. “It’s not good for someone making NEW YORK — Even a late-season snowstorm couldn’t dampen the to show them that fragrance is also about fashion. toothpaste to be placed next to a prestige fra- jovial mood at Pratt Institute/Luxe Pack Monaco’s 15th annual Art It’s lifestyle,” said managing director Jurgen Vater. grance,” a top executive remarked. of Packaging dinner, held Tuesday night at the University Club. “The industry needs a bit of entertainment, Exhibitors also generally complained about The event grossed more than $300,000 for the Marc Rosen and the perfumeries also need to find a way to light traffic. “The customers aren’t here to see,” Scholarship for Graduate Package Design at Pratt Institute. entice consumers into their stores. They don’t go said the sales manager of a leading European skin “I know that I am preaching to a converted audience here when into a perfumery on the weekend to see 4,000 per- care brand. Over at the American pavilion, Jim I say that great design indeed helps create the essential emotional fumes, but rather to see what’s new or get advice Bellm, vice president of sales for mass merchan- connection with consumers,” this year’s honoree, Patrick Bousquet- — all things that have nothing to do with price.” diser Belcam, said, “the majority of people are Chavanne, a group president of Vater also pointed to the German market’s price very dissatisfied. We’ve been one of the lucky ones. the Estée Lauder Cos., told the sensibility as one of its biggest problems at the We saw Wal-Mart Germany and Target Australia, group. “Long after she leaves moment. “The price marketing is extreme, and but the show’s been very slow. At the ICRM in our stores, it is not only the for- it’s not specific to fragrance or beauty. You see it Barcelona, we saw 55 retailers in two days, and mulas, but the full experience in travel, housewares — Germany has become an that’s much more productive than standing here of the packaging, that speaks endless bargain paradise.” and talking to people in the booth next door.” volumes about a brand’s style, Frank Wittek, sales manager for Clarins Nevertheless, the Frankfurt Fair reported attitude and quality. Design and Germany, agreed. “The German end consumer that 23,000 trade visitors had attended the joint packaging is indeed what has become very price- oriented. It’s different fairs. Comparable attendance figures were not makes the product come alive.” than in England, where it’s service that counts, or available, as this was the first time the fairs were Fred Langhammer, presi- in Benelux, where the focus is on quality. In held in this configuration. dent and chief executive officer Germany, it’s only price. People want to get Regardless of the fair’s unorthodox mix, one of the Estée Lauder Cos., con- almost everything for 9.99 [euros, $12.39 at cur- trend that couldn’t be missed was the rise of nat- curred. “Packaging makes the rent exchange], which of course is impossible. So ural-oriented skin care products for both per- difference between a product there’s a lot of pressure on margins, which are fumerie and salon sales. that’s nice to have and a prod- declining,” he said. “We’re normally at shows oriented to salons, uct that’s a must-have,” he said. But you can’t give up on a market the size of but we thought as the fairs are [now] united, Langhammer joined Pierre- Germany, he quickly added. Clarins is trying to Beauty World could be an entree for us with the Yves Maisonneuve, president Marc Rosen and buck the trend with interesting new products, perfumeries,” said Decleor’s brand manager of Luxe Pack Monaco, and Liliane Montevecchi special offers like gifts-with-purchase or co-op Carey Pepper. Thomas F. Schutte, president of event marketing. “Invite consumers to the per- “At first, we thought it would be good to be sur- Pratt Institute, in presenting Bousquet-Chavanne with the award. fumery, treat them with champagne, entertain rounded by big brands, but as the big brands Bousquet-Chavanne also credited fellow Lauder executives — in them with a magician or whatever,” said Wittek. aren’t here, we find the perfumeries are interest- particular, John Fling, vice president of global design; Roger “Perfumeries must be more than bottles on a ed in us,” he reported. Decleor is distributed by Caracappa, senior vice president of global packaging development, shelf. You sell beautiful illusions when you sell Shiseido in Germany, and the aroma-cosmetics and Peter Lichtenthal, senior vice president of global marketing — in fragrance. Beauty is a dream game.” specialist has been growing its German business helping shape the future of design for the brand. “You are going to see “We need new fun things, not just the norm,” at a steady double-digit pace, “though we started some dramatic concepts and designs from the Estée Lauder brand,” stated Thomas Schnitzler, managing partner of at a low level,” he acknowledged. promised Bousquet-Chavanne. Nobilis, Germany’s largest independent perfume There was also a separate Nature Cosmetics Rosen and Bousquet-Chavanne had worked together at distributor and a leader in so-called niche scents. area housing brands like Dr. Hauschka and Santa Elizabeth Arden earlier in their careers, and the always-affable With fun in mind, Nobilis set up miniskirt-clad Verde, plus the fair featured newcomers like the Rosen referenced their shared experience in his remarks, saying girls spraying the new FCUK fragrance in the fair’s H2O live from South Africa. Although oil and he was pleased to have been recognized by Estée in her autobiog- entry halls, whereas the company’s stand was water presumably don’t mix, the hydro skin ther- raphy as a competitive player, even if she only dissed him as the more oriented to its premium and core businesses. apy range blends pure mineral water, extracts “other designer from Elizabeth Arden.” “We started the premium concept, targeted at from the fruit of the olive tree and/or extra virgin “Even to be dismissed by Mrs. Lauder was an honor,” he cracked. 100 to 120 high-quality perfumery doors in cold-pressed olive oil. — Julie Naughton First Lady Joins Avon at Breast Care Center NEW YORK — First Lady Laura Bush The Avon Foundation Breast Cancer visited the new Capital Breast Care Crusade has supplied more than $300 Center last Tuesday, an outgrowth of million to research and care organiza- the Georgetown University’s Lombardi tions. “Until the disease is eradicated, Comprehensive Cancer Center. The Avon remains committed to the fight CBCC was made possible through a against breast cancer and to partnering $1 million start-up grant from the with organizations and programs world- Avon Foundation. MedStar Health, a wide to ensure all women receive parity nonprofit, community-based, health- in medical care regardless of economic care organization, is Lombardi’s clini- Dr. Jeanne Mandelblatt, Andrea or social circumstances,” said Andrea cal partner in the effort. Last week, Jung, Laura Bush, Dr. Richard Jung, Avon’s chairman and chief execu- Avon announced another $500,000 Pestell and Kathleen Walas. tive officer. donation to CBCC. Jeanne Mandelblatt, professor of The CBCC offers comprehensive health exams, in- medicine at Georgetown and director of the CBCC, said structions on giving breast self-exams and one-on-one the partners in the project, “share a vision for the District meetings with health educators. Mammographies are now of Columbia that no woman in need of breast care servic- provided at MedStar’s Washington Hospital Center, but es is left behind. At CBCC, we will not turn any woman the CBCC will soon have on-site mammography services. away, regardless of insurance or financial status.” WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 19, 2004 9

Nivea Carves Out Distinct Position Almay Unveils NEW YORK — Consumers got a first glimpse of Creme, it is adding a night lotion in 8.4-oz. and 13.5- Nivea’s fresh brand message last week in TV spots for oz. sizes, for $6.99 and $9.99, respectively. Key ingredi- new Visage face care products in which the tag line, ents include vitamin F, a fatty acid found in grape “Inspired by the Way Skin Works,” made its debut. seed oil said to have a renewing effect on skin; vita- Its Second Act Susan Savoie, vice president, Cosmed marketing min H, known as biotin, an ingredient used to restruc- for the Beiersdorf division, said that Nivea is seizing a ture and strengthen the upper layers of skin for mois- NEW YORK — Almay is bright-eyed and nearly naked position in skin care not currently occupied by any ture retention and elasticity, and ceramide, to help again. major mass brand. That is, talking about a healthful form a barrier against moisture loss. The Revlon-owned, hypoallergenic brand is following direction in skin care. “The consumer is really becom- Also new to the body range is Silky Shimmer Lotion up the 2003 introduction of Nearly Naked and Bright ing concerned with for Medium to Dark Eyes with offerings that include a touch-pad blush, eye how products work Skin. Since its launch shadow and waterproof mascara, all due out in July. and how good they are in 2002, the shimmer Kevin Kells, vice president of marketing for Almay, for you,” said Savoie. lotion had been avail- noted that the new products are designed to provide “a “Nivea is going to step able only in a light to fresh, natural vital look. It’s not going to be something out with a very wholis- medium shade. A 6.8- that’s over-the-top or transforming — its about enhanc- tic approach.” She oz. bottle is $6.99. ing the beauty that is there.” He noted that both Nearly added marketing ef- On the heels of Naked foundation and the Bright Eyes collection were forts will stress that it launching the mass among the top 15 products in the mass market for 2003; is a brand “consumers market’s first antiaging the new launches are intended to build on that success. can feel safe using.” treatment for men with Nearly Naked Touch-Pad Liquid Blush, the only In 2003, Nivea’s its Nivea Revitalizing such product on the market, is a lightweight formula U.S. retail sales Lotion Q10, the brand is that contains vitamins A and E and botanicals. Priced reached $180 million adding Fresh Cooling at $9.79, it comes in four shades: Bare Pink, Peach Au for the franchise that Shaving Gel, Oil Control Natural, Berry Nude and Revealing Raisin. The sheer includes face, body Face Wash and Oil formula is immersed in a sponge and applied lightly and men’s products. Control Lotion. with the fingers or can be built up for more color. “One Savoie declined to pro- The shaving gel, vide details, but said in noted Savoie, gives men Nearly Naked blush, eye shadow 2004 the brand expects a product offering the and Bright Eyes mascara. to accelerate sales. refreshing feel of an af- “We have been grow- tershave while they PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY ing in double digits for Nivea Renewal Night Lotion, Silky Shimmer Lotion and Nivea for Men shave — but without the last five years and Fresh Cooling Shaving Gel, Oil Control Lotion and Oil Control Face Wash. the sting of alcohol. The it will be dramatically item features menthol more than that, particularly in face care.” and vitamins E and F, to moisturize and maintain skin As reported, the Visage collection is getting a pack- balance. A 7-oz. can is $2.99. aging makeover and has been infused with four new Oily skin is a condition found in 45 percent of men, items: an antiaging treatment called Multiple Results, according to Nivea data, so the face wash is designed to and three moisturizers, Simply Glowing and All Around meet that need. The deep cleanser removes dirt and ex- Protection, the latter in cream and lotion versions. cess oil and prevents clogged pores. The soap-free foam- Industry sources estimate $50 million is being spent on ing gel formula is also said to leave skin without residue. the relaunch, which lands in stores this month. Meanwhile, the Oil Control Lotion features ingredients But there’s more. In May Nivea is bulking up some to absorb oil and reduce shine without blocking pores. other areas of its business. The 5-oz. wash and 2.5-oz. lotion are priced $5.99 each. To complement its Nivea Body Night Renewal — Laura Klepacki of the big areas where you can make a real mistake putting on your cosmetics is in blush — it really Ricky’s Opens in South Beach shouldn’t be that dif- ficult,” said Kells. “It NEW YORK — Ricky’s has gone South. actually should be the The New York-based emporium of finishing touch, beauty and novelty items opened its first bringing a little life store outside New York City this month, into your look. So in the South Beach section of Miami. The Nearly Naked with split-level shop contains 2,700 square the touch pad is the feet of selling space on street level and perfect place for us to 1,100 square feet on the mezzanine. go with that.” It Todd Kenig, an owner of Ricky’s comes in a twist-off Urban Groove, said the company now compact, with white operates 10 stores in Manhattan, and the branding on a clear one in Miami. But there will be more ex- top. A shade-matched Elaine Irwin Mellencamp pansion before the year is out with store foil is used to seal the product. “We’re also going to move that back through to the Nearly Naked fran- chise,” noted Kells. Now, Nearly Naked foundation has a pearlized top and the customer matches her shade through the card. It will adopt the new packaging to make shade matching easier for customers. For the eyes, Bright Eyes Shimmer Pearls Eyeshadow retails for $7.50 and comes in a lilac pot with a clear cover, revealing nine color pearls inside. There are four compacts with three shades in each: Born To Be Ricky’s South Beach store window, left, and the main level. Bronzed, Dawn’s Early Light, Violets Are Blue and Over The Rainbow. Bright Eyes Waterproof Mascara, which count expected to climb to 18 to 20. Four sites are on board for retails for $7.50 and comes in black and black/brown, is a Manhattan, and a second for Florida — in Coconut Grove. tear-proof, humidity-proof formula that applies smoothly There will also be the unveiling of a new concept this summer and evenly to lashes. It also features a patented dual- with Lil Ricky’s, a children’s spot at 74th Street and First sided brush with shorter bristles on one side to coat lash- Avenue. “We will sell everything we sell for adults, only it will be es, while longer bristles lift, refine and separate. miniaturized,” said Kenig. “It will be cosmetics for kids.” A party Executives did not divulge sales projections but in- room will allow children to dress up in a range of costumes to be dustry sources estimate that retail sales for the Nearly offered at the store. Naked franchise, which includes the foundation and Meanwhile, Ricky’s South Beach maintains the essential ele- blush, could be as much as $14 million; the Bright Eyes ments of the New York stores, but adds a tropical flavor, and re- Collection, which consists of liner, shadow (cream and flecting the eclectic population, sales skew in different direc- the pearls), mascara and waterproof mascara could tions. “In New York we sell a lot of women’s wigs, in South Beach reach as much as $28 million. we sell a lot of men’s wigs,” noted Kenig. The launches, as well as existing Nearly Naked and For the opening, windows on one side of the store showcased Bright Eyes products, will be supported by television T-shirts with long, sheer sleeves covered in tattoos, and, on the and print advertising. Ads will feature the brand’s new other side, blue-themed merchandise. spokesmodel, Elaine Irwin Mellencamp. — L.K. —Kristin Finn PRODUCT PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PRODUCT PHOTO BY 10 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 19, 2004 The Beauty Report

An NFL- Bath and hair items themed on Disney princesses. licensed men’s line.

Critical Mass By Faye Brookman PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY Beauty Licenses Flourish NEW YORK — Britney, the Bratz and now the Browns. Gift sets carry suggested retails of $5.99 to $24.99. of the beauty event in Barcelona. Originally intended as Licensing is heating up the beauty category as mar- DeGaetano hopes to build an integrated marketing solely an international show, word of mouth reached keters look to established names to ignite sluggish fra- strategy where the beauty products are tied into U.S. retailers and suppliers, which asked to attend. grance and cosmetics sales. events such as Disney on Ice. Disney has more than The end result was a mixture of U.S. retailers Two of the latest deals are from New York Boom 300 licensees for its princesses that are expected to learning about foreign suppliers and international LLC, which is offering National Football League gift haul in more than $1.4 billion in the next three years. marketers getting a chance to target American mer- sets and Disney Princess gift sets and open stock items Boom is also offering its services to build propri- chants. The meeting provided U.S. companies the to mass merchants. etary bath brands for mass merchants. But DeGaetano, chance to view international stores such as Carrefour Boom LLC, which develops products for who previously worked at a company that created and upscale European perfumeries. Abercrombie & Fitch and Limited, Too, knows the im- products for Bath & Body Works and Victoria’s Secret, Bowlus estimated the breakdown in attendance was portance of brand development. “With a good license, admitted it could be a challenge. “Sure the margins about 70 percent European and 30 percent U.S. firms. you don’t need to create that awareness,” said Art are better with private label, but you have the constant “It was a learning experience and something we DeGaetano, president and chief executive officer of need to make it fresh and new, which can be hard in should continue to pursue,” said Kathy Steirly, vice the New York-based firm. mass market stores,” he said. He believes Boom’s ex- president of beauty marketing for Eckerd. On the sup- The NFL collection is available in all 32 team logos. perience in specialty stores gives the company the ex- plier side, Thomas Winarick, executive vice president Kits include a leather-like zipper bag with a 2-oz. pertise to translate the freshness into mass marketing. of Prestige Cosmetics, said it helped manufacturers cologne spray, a deodorant stick and a football soap Boom’s retail sales exceeded $80 million at retail better understand the complexities of European re- with a suggested retail of $24.50. last year and the company expects to double its corpo- tailing. Prestige has secured footage in Boots, the According to DeGaetano, the kits had already been sold rate business thanks to expansion into the mass mar- U.K.’s premier drugstore chain. to midtier department stores so the company has a grip on ket during 2004. Bowlus addressed the issue of whether the timing of what team logos sell best in particular markets. The men’s ● ● ● the show siphoned off top buyers from the February area had been somewhat overlooked in the mass market Efficient Customer Response Management held its EPPS gathering in Dallas, held the week prior to the and DeGaetano hopes this opens up both day- in and day- first International Beauty Efficient Promotion and Barcelona event. He said that in the future the schedules out opportunities as well as holiday gift options. Planning Sessions meeting last month in Barcelona. would not be as close, especially now that he sees de- At the other end of the spectrum, Boom is the new More than 250 representatives of companies such as mand from U.S. retailers. “We would not have scheduled licensee for Disney Princesses. Retailers have identi- Ahold, Delhaize, ASDA, Walgreens, Target and CVS at- them that close and we won’t in the future,” he stated. fied princess themes as one of the hottest areas for tended the four-day event. ● ● ● girls under eight years of age, fueled by upcoming film According to ECRM president Charles Bowlus, the CLARIFICATION events such as “Ella Enchanted” and Hilary Duff ’s gathering was a success and he said he hopes to stage Although Markwins International has the licensing “Cinderella Story,” as well as stores like Club Libby Lu more category shows abroad. “We will probably ex- rights for Bratz beauty products in mass market stores, where girls have princess parties. pand with health and beauty care and grocery,” said Fira Cosmetics is the cosmetics licensee for the pistol- The Disney Princesses — Cinderella, Snow White Bowlus. Already, another beauty care show is planned hot doll property in department and specialty stores. and Sleeping Beauty — are featured on bath, shampoo for November, most likely in Paris, he added. Fira will start shipping its products this May. This was and cosmetics items priced between $2.49 and $3.79. “We had the biggest retailers in the world,” he said unclear on page 9 March 12.

introducing its first fragrance, a unisex eau de BIG APPLE BATH: Christopher Stanley, who Metropolitan Pavilion, attracted 2,000 CEW cologne called Asprey Purple Water. The scent launched bath and body care brand Tipton members who were on hand to test and TOPNOTES features olfactory accords of citrus and spice and Charles in 1996, has created New York Soap, a evaluate which products should be awarded will be priced at $215 for a 300-ml. bottle. 33-item collection of vegetable-based bath, body most innovative across 23 categories. The FINAL BOW: Martin Gras, a senior perfumer in Asprey Purple Water is expected to launch in late and hair care products, including soaps, bath results of their evaluations will be presented Paris at fragrance supplier Symrise, has spring at the company’s stores in New York and salts, body balms, shampoos and a conditioner. at the 10th annual CEW Beauty Awards retired. Gras had been with the company and Beverly Hills, as well as at its planned store on The collection, which divides products into four ceremony on May 21 at The Waldorf-Astoria. Dragoco — the firm that merged with London’s Bond Street, slated to open April 28. scented groups — Pomegranate, Apricot-Basil, Haarmann & Reimer to form Symrise — for Creamsicle and Acqua Blue — ranges in price MARTHA ON THE LIPS: Too Faced has created a 23 years. During his career, he created such CARTHUSIAN EXPANSION: Carthusia, the from $7.50 for bar soap to $20 for body scrub. limited-edition lipstick, named Save Martha, scents as Cerruti 1881 pour Homme, fragrance collection produced on the Italian in support of the domestic diva. The shade is Lapidus pour Homme, Bleu Marine for Pierre island of Capri using the same traditions as the TRISH TANNING: Air-Brush Tanning is now champagne mixed with pink and brown and Cardin and Boudoir for Vivienne Westwood. Carthusian monks, will introduce two being offered at the Dr. Ronald Sherman/Trish retails for $15. It is available at toofaced.com. fragrances in the U.S. this spring. Carthusia is McEvoy Skincare Center. A skin technician PARFUMS DE COEUR MOVE: Roy Sowers has launching Aria di Capri, a fruity-citrus blend for sprays on the Trish McEvoy self-tanning PUREBEAUTY BUILD UP: Purebeauty has added resumed the position of vice president of women, at Barneys New York in April. formulation, which is available in light, another eight lines to its upscale merchandise sales for Parfums de Coeur. Sowers had held Additionally, Carthusia is launching its first medium or dark, from head to toe, providing mix. StriVectin-SD, 24/7, B. Kamins Chemist, the post from 1990 until 1999, when he men’s fragrance in the U.S. — Carthusia an instant bronze tint that’s formulated to Passport, Lola, Z. Bigatti, I.C.O.N. and Enjoy moved to Florida. Since then he had Uomo, a mix of rosewood and kelp notes — at stay on the skin as a tan develops within now can be found at the company’s 60 stores. remained with the Connecticut-based Barneys in May. Both scents will come in 50- eight hours. The color is designed to look “As always, we’re excited to share these company as regional sales manager. Sowers ml. versions for $58 and 100-ml. versions for natural and to last up to five days. It is new lines with our customers,” said Elaine Mac succeeds Robert Carlino, who left in January $90. There are 12 Carthusia scents in all, four available in a half-body treatment for $50 or Neil, vice president and general merchandise for a sales position with Puig, N.A. Sowers, of which are currently distributed in the U.S. for the whole body, which costs $100. manager. “StriVectin, B. Kamins and 24/7 are who reports to Mark Laracy, president, will by Intertrade Europe, a division of Padova, highly desired by our clients and we are remain in Florida and travel as necessary to Italy-based Herbarium. Carthusia’s limited BEST IN BEAUTY: Cosmetic Executive Women committed to delivering upon our promise to the company’s headquarters. U.S. distribution network of 50 doors includes hosted the 2004 Beauty Awards Product provide them with the most exciting, most Barneys, Takashimaya, Aedes de Venustas, Exhibition and Demonstration on March 11. unique and most effective beauty products for LUXE SCENT: British luxury label Asprey is Louis Boston and Studio at Fred Segal. The event, held for the first time at the their ever-changing regimen.” WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 19, 2004 11 The HBA Report

P&G’s Olay Moisturinse The Silk powder and Ups Shower Experience cream duo.

By Andrea Nagel 6-11, where posters revealed clinical GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY results, visuals and graphs of Moisturinse NEW YORK — Showers aren’t just about to members of the medical community. getting clean anymore. It was there that doctors also learned Procter & Gamble, the beauty behemoth how Moisturinse works. According to that’s figured out how to keep lipstick on all Mehboob-Khan, a “high internal phase” day (Cover Girl Outlast), and how to technology is meant to allow the formula to consistently reinvigorate the world’s best deposit petrolatum — the product’s key selling shampoo (Pantene), has now moisturizer — on the skin without washing concocted a body lotion that’s applied in it away. A delicate balance of emulsifiers, the shower — and doesn’t wash off. such as hydroxy ethyl cellulose, is Adil Mehboob-Khan, vice president, designed to ensure the proper amount of global personal cleansing for P&G, is stickiness and tackiness so that bullish on the success of Olay Moisturinse Moisturinse will survive the rinsing and In Shower Body Lotion, the name of the toweling off stages of showering. new formula, not only because it creates a The personal cleansing business is new segment in personal cleansing, but very segmented, with Dove as the market because Olay is eager to bring innovation leader. But Olay’s reputation, which to the stagnant personal cleansing carries with it a skin care authority, has category, quite like it has in skin care. garnered its fair share, too. Olay’s market “Personal cleansing is a very solid share in personal cleansing is at a 5 point Kanebo Aims for Silky Beginning business, but it has not had particular share, according to Ted Keegan, P&G’s innovation,” Mehboob-Khan said. U.S. marketing director, with the company NEW YORK — Despite the $3.33 billion aid The personal care business is approxi- experiencing double-digit growth in 2003 package Kanebo is receiving from Japan’s Quick mately $200 million to $250 million in mass due to bar soap sales and Olay’s new shea government-run Industrial Revitalization Radiance is outlets, which includes body lotions, body butter body wash. What Moisturinse can Corp. for its indebted cosmetics division, designed to washes, beauty bars, exfoliating scrubs and do for Olay’s market share, as well as the Kanebo Cosmetics USA Inc., based in lighten dark moisturizing mists. Moisturinse looks to industry, looks positive. Manhattan, is forging ahead with the inter- spots by 75 generate $35 million to $45 million in first- “The beauty of this product is that it national launch of two new products. percent. year sales, according to industry sources. has no base. It doesn’t cannibalize existing There’s Quick Radiance, designed to Lotions, as good as they are, he ex- business. It is incremental,” Keegan said. diminish sun spots and dark melanin by plained, have drawbacks. Indeed, Moisturinse creates a totally 75 percent with a blend of apricot pulp ex- “A lot of people have dry skin, but only new category, one that competitors are tract and wheat germ extract. Quick half use a lotion every day. Some people already looking to bank on. Radiance is meant to be applied after find the routine too burdensome,” “We are pretty confident by seeing cleansing and before moisturizing and is according to Mehboob-Khan. some of the patent activity from the gentle enough to be used twice a day. One insight is that once a woman is usual suspects that we will be ahead for The second product, Silk, employs a out of the shower she is out of her quite a while,” said Keegan. special and rare silk from the district of sanctuary, so the compliance for lotion While creating a new category presents Koishimaru, a village called Usui-mura in usage is not as high as it could be. some benefits, challenges are also on the the Gunma prefecture, located northwest P&G spoke with more than 3,000 women horizon. The first is getting consumers to of Tokyo. The silk, until now, has been and found that the shower was an oasis to understand the product. In explaining used exclusively by members of Japan’s many women. Eight out of 10 of these usage to consumers, P&G will likely imperial family. Kanebo has been given women described themselves with dry skin compare Moisturinse to a hair conditioner, permission by the family to utilize this silk but only 43 percent said they moisturized. but for the body. Body washes, therefore, in an exclusive cream and powder duo. “Many walk out of the shower and are like body shampoos. Packages already “Skin will begin to look like silk,” said forget to do it or become too busy,” said express this message. Sonia Turner-Guillemin, chief trainer and Wendy Brackett, an Olay senior scientist. According to industry sources, a $45 sales officer for Kanebo Cosmetics USA. “This brought us to think about using the million to $50 million TV, print and public After moisturizing, the cream is applied, shower to capitalize on moisturizing.” relations advertising effort will help followed by the powder; the latter should In addition, P&G research found support Moisturinse’s June launch to be applied only at night. consumers believe their skin is most food outlets, mass marketers and drug- Silk launches internationally in June, receptive to nourishment when it is stores. In-store programs, such as and Quick Radiance appears in all coun- warm and wet. And 92 percent of derma- displays, look to reach consumers as they tries beginning in July. Osamu Ishikawa, tologists agreed. enter beauty sections of stores and steer president of Kanebo’s Cosmetics USA, who Dr. Wendy Roberts, a clinical professor them toward the personal cleansing aisle, was appointed in January, expects that and dermatologist in private practice in where Moisturinse will be merchandised, sales of the two products could reach $510,000 their first year on shelves. He added that Rancho Mirage, Calif., was one investi- adjacent to Olay Body Wash. while the company’s cosmetics division is establishing a new firm with the IRC in May, gator participating in P&G’s 14-day Early sales results of Moisturinse have doing so would not affect Kanebo’s U.S. market, which is about a $5 million business. Moisturinse study. Dr. Roberts said she been promising. P&G has been selling Kanebo maintains a select distribution in the U.S. — it’s only offered in 25 doors, includ- found that “Moisturinse [extra formula] Moisturinse on Olay.com since February. ing Takashimaya, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue outlets and Barneys New York in performed superior to the traditional out- On Feb. 8, more than 1,600 units sold in 48 Beverly Hills and Manhattan. of-shower body moisturizer after 14 days hours, four times as much as P&G The company will debut its first advertising stint in the June issue of W magazine, a sis- of use applied once a day.” estimated. Olay Moisturinse is available in ter publication of WWD. Ads will feature Silk, which retails for $130; Quick Radiance retails Dr. Roberts also attended this year’s extra dry and normal-to-dry formulas and for $55 for a 2.5-oz. bottle. American Academy of Dermatology will retail for $4.99 for a 8.4-oz. container — A.N. conference in Washington, D.C., from Feb. and $6.99 for a 15.2-oz. container.

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Publication: WWD 12 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 19, 2004 Kmart Posts Profit in Qtr. Remembering Jack Sheinkman By Evan Clark giant J.P. Stevens & Co. in the Continued from page one Julian Day, president and “At this point, comp sales Seventies. organization.” But that team ap- chief executive officer, told Wall aren’t terribly significant. The NEW YORK — Family, friends Janet Shenk, special assis- parently won’t include a chief Street Thursday that, “by giving question is: Are they building on and former colleagues of Jack tant to the president of the merchant for now — Ferry careful thought to the processes the business?” he said. “If they Sheinkman gathered Wednes- AFL-CIO, recalled Sheinkman ended months of industry spec- of sourcing, logistics, pricing, in- can show improving sales month day to remember him as a fiery as he helped organize delega- ulation by saying the search for ventory management and in-store to month, they have a chance of labor leader and human rights tions to the turbulent El one is on hold. presentation, we have signifi- turning this thing around.” advocate. Salvador 20 years ago, noting he Meanwhile, Kmart’s fourth- cantly improved the profitability He would like to see Kmart Sheinkman, who died of was “completely undaunted by quarter results gave Wall Street of our market basket. Our store make two moves quickly — pneumonia in January at age 77, the circumstances.” something to chew on. Kmart, associates and store managers renegotiate its Martha Stewart was the last president of the After “interrogating” ambas- which operates more than 1,500 are committed to continuous im- license for more favorable terms Amalgamated Clothing & sadors, generals and other offi- stores, said for the fourth quarter provements of customer service. and hire a chief merchant. Textile Workers Union. He re- cials on the plight of the local ended Jan. 28, income was $276 Likewise, our employees based Overall, Whalin said holiday tired in 1995 when the ACTWU workers, Sheinkman maintained million, or $2.78 a diluted share, at headquarters are dedicated to 2004 will be a do-or-die for and the International Ladies that style of questioning and his against a $1.1 billion loss a year supporting improvements in the Kmart. “I think they are on the Garment Workers Union merged composure when armed guerril- ago, or $2.13. Sales fell 25.8 per- store experience.” right track, but they are moving into UNITE. las stopped a delegation he was cent to $6.33 billion from $8.53 The ceo also noted that Kmart’s slowly and this is an unforgiving While several at the memori- leading. The group eventually re- billion. Same-store sales for the inventory investment has been business to move slowly in,” he al described Sheinkman’s pas- turned safely. period fell by 13.5 percent. “prudently managed throughout noted. “They’ve got to make it sion, he was also remembered as Speaking on behalf of the Investors applauded the re- the year, ending the fiscal year at happen in the next three quar- a family man who cared deeply family, Sheinkman’s younger tailer’s results by sending the a level below $3.3 billion, a reduc- ters and they’ve got to go into hol- for the condition of workers brother, Shepard Sheinkman, stock up 6.9 percent in trading on tion of more than 25 percent rela- iday ready.” everywhere. described his brother as some- the Big Board to close at $37.06, tive to the prior year on a compa- The retailer said in its annual William Englander, former at- one who wielded power, but up $2.38. The stock reached a rable-store basis.” report, or Form 10-K, which it torney for the Textile Workers never abused it. new 52-week high in intraday He added that the company filed with the Securities and Union and a friend of Sheink- “You can’t be a leader with- trading, hitting $39.31 a share. has significantly strengthened Exchange Commission on Thurs- man’s since childhood, said the out understanding the uses and Regarding Martha Stewart’s its cash position through im- day, that it has more than $23 bil- labor leader got his start early, misuses of power,” he said. “He conviction, Kmart said in a gov- proved inventory management, lion in annual sales and more organizing his first strike at the was very purposeful, a very seri- ernment filing there’s been no cash flow from operations and than two million customer visits a tender age of 10. ous guy.” adverse impact on its Martha receipts from sales of surplus day. Among its top proprietary In protest of some long-forgot- However, Sheinkman said his Stewart-branded goods business. real estate. At yearend, Kmart brands are Martha Stewart Every- ten wrong by a science teacher, brother had “a sweetness about On the merchandise front, the had $2.1 billion in cash and cash day, Joe Boxer, Jaclyn Smith and the kids in Sheinkman’s class, in him.” retailer has been busy. In the last equivalents and had not bor- Thalia Sodi. The company said in unison, produced newspapers No matter how well the six months, Kmart has brought rowed under its credit facility the filing that a disproportionate and began reading when the brothers, who shared a room, on two Gap Inc. veterans — Lisa other than for letters of credit. amount of revenues and operat- teacher went to the board. were getting along on a particu- Schultz as senior vice president Richard Hastings, credit ing cash flow are generated dur- That first effort wasn’t a spec- lar day, Sheinkman remem- and chief creative officer, and economist at Bernard Sands, ing the all-important holiday sell- tacular success, though, and the bered, “When the lights went John Goodman as chief apparel said there “is so much misunder- ing period, with fourth-quarter students eventually put away out, he would reach out his officer, both new positions that standing about what is a compa- sales representing 28 percent of their papers to placate their hand to me and I would hold his will apparently fill the “mer- rable-store sale. Does it directly same-store sales in fiscal 2003. angry teacher. and he would say ‘Goodnight.’” chandise vision” quotient cus- correlate to net profit? No, not at While much has been written Sheinkman was more suc- Other speakers at the memo- tomarily supplied by a chief mer- all. Kmart’s comps might be about the recent conviction of cessful in his later battles, in- rial, held at 31 West 15th Street chant. Schultz works from the re- down, but the company is gener- Martha Stewart and its potential cluding a groundbreaking coop- and featured a video of tailer’s new Manhattan design of- ating more dollars from the impact on her brand, Kmart said eration agreement signed be- Sheinkman, were Rev. David fices, set to open Monday at 111 sales. The liquidity that Kmart in the SEC filing, “To date, we tween the ACTWU and San Dyson, Homi Patel, Noel Eighth Street. has means it is not going any- have not experienced any signifi- Francisco-based Levi Strauss & Beasley, Harry Katz, Marvin Outside apparel, Kmart also where anytime soon. “Possibly, cant adverse impact from this Co. in 1994. He was also instru- Rich, Ezra Cornell, Robert has recruited broadly from re- one day down the road, Wal-Mart matter on the sales of Martha mental in the union’s efforts to Kaplan, Michael Black, William tail ranks, bringing in former will hurt them terribly, but for Stewart Everyday brand products. organize the Southern textile Gould and Bruce Raynor. Sears, Carrefour and Home the next 20 months, this retailer Although product sales have not Shopping Network executives. is not going anywhere.” been significantly affected by past Ferry characterized the re- Hastings said Kmart “is not events, the company is not able to tailer as working on basic block- going to blow through $2 billion in determine the potential effects ing-and-tackling operations — 60 days. The retailer has the same that these events may have on the Study: Calif. CEO’s Plan for instance, widening the aisles Kmart name, but it is a totally new future sales of its Martha Stewart and waxing the floors to create a culture with new management.” Everyday brand products.” brighter, airier store. The economist, who recently In a matter related to Stew- As for the firm’s “green logo” chatted with Kmart officials, art’s firm, Martha Stewart Living To Take Jobs From State stores, Ferry said their role is noted that the company’s focus is Omnimedia, the lawsuit filed by more “laboratory” than prototype. on carving out a niche as an eth- Kmart against a subsidiary of Continued from page 2 egger, who has pledged to build Kmart operates five such nic merchandising discount de- Omnimedia over a dispute in than the average Western state — and retain jobs in the state. Last concepts, in White Lake, Mich., partment store, paying close atten- how royalty rates are calculated and as a result, California is los- week, he unveiled the California a Detroit suburb, and four oth- tion to basic, high-margin goods. — Kmart is seeking to reduce ing ground to other states,” said Commission for Jobs and Eco- ers in Peoria, Ill. Asked about Does he think Kmart is out of royalty payments by $4.5 million Jeff Melton, a partner at Bain & nomic Growth, a nonprofit organi- significant innovations in these the woods? to $47.5 million from $52 million Co., during a recent presentation zation dedicated to promoting doors, Ferry said the stores have Walter Loeb, a retail consult- — is still progressing. of the study to the board mem- California products and keeping shorter, broader aisles and con- ant of the firm that bears his The company was silent about bers of the Los Angeles County employers from leaving the state. venience foods in back, which name, isn’t so confident about the status of a federal investiga- Economic Development Corp. Among the 24 members of the makes for easier replenishment. Kmart’s future. “The quarter’s tion surrounding the circum- Hitting jobs the hardest is the commission are Gap Inc. chair- Meanwhile, the scuttlebutt ac- results disguise the true momen- stances of its bankruptcy that state’s regulatory environment, man Donald Fisher. tivity in the financial services tum at Kmart. One year from was started by the U.S. Attorney’s deemed the most “costly, com- Meanwhile, the governor is community ticked up Thursday as now it will be a different story. Office in Michigan, with the as- plex and uncertain” in the na- conducting almost daily meet- the retailer’s results renewed The numbers are good because it sistance of the Federal Bureau of tion. The study reports that ings with employers, labor speculation over a possible reflects the [ridding] of old in- Investigation, suggesting it was California enacted 15 statutory unions and legislative unions to Kmart-Sears merger, which some ventory when it came out of still in progress. Kmart did refer- changes to labor rules yearly be- encourage state lawmakers to say would be led by Ed Lampert, bankruptcy,” Loeb pointed out. ence in its filing the 10-K filed tween 1992 and 2002. That rate is pass his workers compensation founder of ESL Investments and Outside of cosmetic changes, last year for fiscal 2002, which four times the average for all reform package by March 31. chairman of Kmart Holding Corp. retail consultant Therese Byrne had more information about the states and three times the aver- Not all industry observers pre- ESL Investments, along with said she has yet to see meaningful, nature of the investigation and age for New York. dict gloom and doom for the state, Third Avenue Trust, bailed Kmart coherent change in infrastructure Kmart’s own stewardship review. To compete more effectively, especially in the apparel sector. out of bankruptcy and owns more — specifically personnel, sourcing For the 39-week period, dur- the study encourages the state to “The study doesn’t get into the than 50 percent of the retailer’s and IT, a Kmart Achilles’ heel for ing which Kmart operated as a reduce its cost gap of doing busi- heart of consumer products, common stock. Lampert is also decades. Without that, she said, successor firm to the one that ness here. Measures include where you can’t move jobs to Ala- the largest stakeholder of Sears. Kmart’s operations are akin to a filed for bankruptcy, income was overhauling the state’s burden- bama because the industry base This won’t be the first time specu- “Hollywood set.” $248 million, or $2.52 a share, some workers’ compensation sys- isn’t there,” said Ilse Metchek, ex- lators have put the two firms to- “It’s fake retail, like Mont- against a loss of $1.78 billion, or tem, supporting the referendum ecutive director of the California gether in a marriage. It’s impor- gomery Ward before they went $3.50, last year. Sales fell by 23 on the mandatory health care Fashion Association. “Even with tant to note that, of the eight under. They are still the old percent to $17.07 billion from law and reforming California’s outsourced jobs, we haven’t lost board members of Kmart, aside Kmart in that they think they can $22.17 billion, while comps de- overtime law that requires pay- the design rooms, the distribution from Lampert, two work for ESL do without systems,” she said. clined by 9.5 percent. ment of overtime after eight centers — what we’ve lost is the Investments and one is with George Whalin, ceo of Retail For the year, incorporating hours in a day compared with 40 manufacturing process.” Third Avenue Management. Management Consultants, was the same 39 weeks and the $862 hours in a week to permit more Metchek notes that the state According to an investment willing to cut Kmart slightly more million loss sustained during flexibility in work schedules. In in 1994 accounted for 10 percent banker, one reason a deal hasn’t slack. He warned against overem- the 13 weeks ended April 30, most other states, overtime is of apparel distribution in the happened yet is because “Kmart phasis on the 13.5 percent comp- 2003, operated by Kmart’s pred- paid after a 40-hour work week. U.S., a number that has risen to still has too many stores in not- sales drop because pre-bankrupt- ecessor firm, the discounter In their favor, businesses have 23 percent currently. “We’re so-great locations.” cy comparisons are inexact. posted a $614 million loss. an ally in Gov. Arnold Schwarzen- doing something right,” she said. WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 19, 2004 13 Media Wet Seal Sags on Soft Sales BACK ON THE RADAR: By Jennifer Weitzman In guidance, the company said there It’s (almost) are early signs of improvement in both MEMO PAD alive. NEW YORK — Capping off a year that divisions. Still, management said it an- Sources saw its executives turn over quicker ticipates a loss from continuing opera- close to the cryonically frozen Radar magazine than its clothing, The Wet Seal Inc. said tions in the first quarter of between 54 said founder Maer Roshan has at last reached a late Thursday that its losses ballooned cents to 59 cents a share, a far cry from tentative agreement for the long-term funding he in its fourth quarter. Wall Street’s forecast for a loss of 21 has been seeking for the past two years — “As our financial results indicate, cents, excluding Zutopia. Wet Seal said approximately $20 million from a pool of the fourth quarter was another difficult it estimates the loss from the Zutopia investors, with the lead investment said to have quarter,” Peter Whitford, chief execu- discontinued operations for the quar- originated overseas. At press time, it appeared tive officer, told investors on an after- ter to range between 15 cents and 20 that the investors in the consortium organized to noon conference call. “Our perform- cents a share. purchase New York Magazine, who had expressed ance was clearly unacceptable.” In 2003, the firm reported a loss of interest in Radar — Mort Zuckerman, Harvey The contemporary retailer, which is $47.3 million, or $1.59 a diluted share, Weinstein, Donnie Deutsch, Nelson Peltz and based in Foothill Ranch, Calif., and op- compared with a profit of $4.2 million, or others — had not participated. erates a fleet of 605 stores under the 14 cents. Sales for the year tapered 12.3 Roshan declined comment, but sources said he Wet Seal and Arden B. nameplates, percent to $517.6 million from $590.3 mil- reached the deal Monday, and he was overheard said its losses mounted to $17.8 million, lion, while comps withered 16.4 percent. that night at a book party for India Hicks excitedly or 60 cents a diluted share, for the Joseph Deckop, interim chief finan- telling guests “I have money!” In recent weeks he three months ended Jan. 31. Results in- cial officer, said the sales decline reflect- also told potential contributors that he planned to clude a loss of 15 cents a share from ed merchandise that was “too holiday relaunch the magazine in September, with regular the soon-to-be-discontinued Zutopia specific and didn’t provide enough tran- publication to follow. Whether Roshan will be able operations. Excluding Zutopia, which sitional style.” In addition, he said, the to reassemble his original team is unclear, as most Laetitia Casta on the cover of French Glamour. the retailer said it will sell or close by company was not prepared with enough have moved on since being put on hiatus last Glamour used it first in 1998 and they went the end of the first quarter, the net loss sweaters and outerwear in January for Memorial Day. But he is in serious talks with former from 150,000 to 250,000 copies in a year. was $13.4 million, or 45 cents, which is the cold weather in much of the nation. Talk publisher Lee Rosenbaum (who also consulted There’s no reason France can’t do the same.” ahead of consensus estimates of 48 On the other hand, he said, Arden B. fin- on Radar’s original business plan) to join the Suberbielle expects French Glamour to turn a cents. Last year, the firms reported a ished the year on a high note. magazine as publisher. — Greg Lindsay profit in two years. — Robert Murphy loss of $5.6 million, or 20 cents a share Allan Haims, president of the Wet and 15 cents on a continuing basis. Seal division, said early spring mer- GLAMOURAMA: Condé Nast France’s launch COAST TO COAST: While Time Out New York Overall sales depleted 8.1 percent to chandise has performed in-line with ex- Thursday of French Glamour was no low-key president Cyndi Stivers is racking up the free air $143.1 million from $155.6 million, pectations, noting the stores will be re- affair. Four television commercials directed by miles from her frequent jaunts to Chicago, and while same-store sales declined 9.9 freshed with a wider assortment of Ellen Von Unwerth are currently airing during while her staff is celebrating their National percent. Gross margins as percentage spring and summer offerings that will prime time in France, making the young Magazine Award nominations (including one for of sales from continuing operations be dressier. He also said he expects to women’s title the first of its genre to capitalize general excellence), sources close to the plunged 910 basis points to 16.7 per- do well in bottoms, especially with on new laws freeing publishers to push magazine said the home office in London is busy cent of sales from 25.8 percent. miniskirts and denim. magazines on TV. Prisma Presse was the first to sketching the next phase of expansion: Time Out launch a magazine — its television listings Los Angeles. biweekly Tele 2 Semaines — via small screens Time Out Group executives have quietly in France in January. begun looking for a financial partner in L.A. who Two-thirds of Glamour’s $8.5 million, or 7 can play the part of the local, silent investor that Pennsylvania Governor million euros, promotion budget is being William Louis-Dreyfus (father of “Seinfeld” star funneled into TV, with the remainder allocated to Julia) did for TONY and financier Joe Mansueto events, billboards and posters, said Didier will for the Chicago version launching this fall. Suberbielle, president of Condé Nast France. “Do we have feelers out there? Sure,” said Nixes Sweatshop Goods “Television was a boon [for Prisma],” he said. “It TONY publisher Alison Tocci. “I don’t feel that should be equally great for Glamour.” we’re significantly more involved with it than By Scott Malone in an advance copy of his comments. French Glamour is the latest version of the before. But we definitely want to be there.” According to a draft of the order pro- title to take on the Continent, after blockbuster Complicating things, one source said, is the NEW YORK — Pennsylvania Gov. vided to WWD, it holds that “the public launches in Britain, Germany and Italy. Base group’s desire to stay clear of any Hollywood- Edward Rendell was expected to sign interest requires that the Commonwealth circulation in France will tally 160,000, with a derived fortunes, to prevent the magazine from an executive order Thursday evening use its stature and leadership as a market full page of advertising costing $18,300, or being drawn into internecine conflict among the establishing an “Anti-Sweatshop participant to promote fair treatment of 15,000 euros. Condé Nast France is owned by studios, with advertising suffering as a result. Procurement Policy” for all apparel the workforce and the elimination of Advance Magazines, which also owns WWD. Los Angeles, along with Chicago and, to a and other uniforms bought by the state. sweatshop conditions.” “The target reader is urban and she’s a luxury lesser extent, San Francisco, have long been The order mandates that the state will In a statement, UNITE president client,” said Suberbielle. “We’re in a class of our targets for the Time Out Group. Stivers developed only buy apparel — as well as laundry Bruce Raynor said, “Now, other munici- own with the title. No other magazine in France an editorial strategy for Los Angeles several years services — from vendors that pay the palities and public authorities in is geared to the 20-to-35 set. The competition is ago, but its dissimilarities to New York (the legal minimum wage in the country Pennsylvania, and throughout the nation, either teenager or over 30. Biba and driving, as opposed to commuting culture being where they are located or a rate of pay should follow Gov. Rendell’s lead and Cosmopolitan come closest and their average one) were deemed more challenging than that’s at least the equivalent of the coun- adopt policies that make sure that our reader is over 30.” Chicago. Stivers, who returned a call from Los try’s poverty threshold. It also requires tax dollars do not support sweatshops.” Glamour stuck to a mini format — the same Angeles (“It’s a total coincidence,” she said) said the state to publicly disclose the names In September, New York Gov. George used for the title in Italy, Germany and Britain her plans were so tentative she had never and addresses of all apparel and laundry E. Pataki vetoed a similar proposal. He — and a low newsstand price of $1.83, or 1.50 committed them to paper. contractors with which it does business. called it “well-intentioned” at the time, euros. “The price is attractive but the editorial is But with Time Out Chicago’s launch team The order does not apply to uni- but said he was concerned with “serious very luxe,” said Suberbielle. about to be announced, the group’s attention is forms produced for the state by in- technical flaws.” Also that month, he ap- The first issue counts 100 pages of already turning elsewhere. mates in the state correctional system. proved a bill allowing public colleges advertising amid 200 pages of editorial, “I have a sense that once Chicago is up and It also does not require the state to buy and school districts to turn away bids including how-to columns on food, decoration, running, the floodgates will open,” Tocci said. “I from U.S. manufacturers. from sweatshop vendors even if they dressing and, of course, love. “It has a real think we’ll have more interest and inquiries from “There is no justifiable reason why were the lowest bids. practical side,” said Suberbielle. “The small investors about rolling out versions in other the government should purchase goods In 2002, New Jersey Gov. James E. format [8.8 by 6.8 inches] is our plus. Italian cities.” — G. L. from any company that violates our wage McGreevy ordered that the state’s uni- and workplace safety laws,” Rendell said forms be made in the U.S.

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Publication: WWD 14 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 19, 2004 Lane Bryant Paces Charming Qtr. WTO Officials Wary By Jennifer Weitzman broader product offerings. “What introduced an activewear line we wanted to be able to do is tell and broadened its intimates sec- Of AFL-CIO Petition NEW YORK — Improvements at the customer what great prod- tion by introducing a yoga and Lane Bryant, the most promi- ucts we have in the store,” said spa collection. By John Zarocostas Part of the union’s reasoning nent of Charming Shoppes’ trio Gayle Coolick, director of in- As reported, Charming in filing the complaint with the of businesses, along with cost vestor relations, “and that we Shoppes, which trails only Gap GENEVA — Trade officials and U.S. Trade Representative was controls ignited the plus-sized have great new, clear offerings and Limited Brands in apparel lawyers working at the home of that, while WTO rules say little on specialty retailer’s bottom line that she hasn’t seen in many volume among U.S. specialty the World Trade Organization labor standards, U.S. law does. In in the fourth quarter. years. It’s a real story and a real stores, last Friday said for the here said the tariff requests in the some ways, the case could be seen Profits for the retailer, based turnaround in Lane Bryant.” three months ending May 1 that Section 301 petition filed Tuesday as a test within the U.S. of in Bensalem, Pa., more than Still, Dorothy Lakner, an ana- diluted earnings per share are by the AFL-CIO would not be sup- whether domestic law trumps doubled to $10.1 million, or 9 lyst with CIBC World Markets, projected to be in the range of 11 ported by global trade rules. rules imposed by outside systems. cents a diluted share, which said Lane Bryant’s performance to 12 cents, considerably higher The petition charges that At the WTO’s 1999 summit in scorched past Wall Street’s fore- in the quarter was disappoint- than the 8 cents a share the com- China unfairly pushes down costs Seattle, former President Clinton cast by 6 cents, according to ing, citing a casual business, pany reported in last year’s first by systematically violating work- called on the organization to First Call. Results represented a which is an important element quarter. Wall Street’s current ers’ rights, thus driving down make core labor standards part 161.6 percent increase over of spring and summer sales, that first-quarter estimate is 12 cents. wages. The result, the petition of every trade agreement and year-ago profits of $3.9 million, hasn’t been performing well. Sales for the period are forecast claims, is essentially an unfair subject to sanctions. The propos- or 3 cents. Last year’s results in- Meanwhile the retailer’s to be $585 million, a 3.7 percent export subsidy that the U.S. al was strongly opposed by devel- clude a pre-tax restructuring other divisions, Catherine’s Plus gain over year-ago revenues of would be free to oppose. oping countries and contributed credit of $3.5 million, or 2 cents. Sizes and Fashion Bug, showed $564.3 million. Same-store sales, “From a WTO perspective, this to the collapse of the meeting. Sales for the quarter tapered softness. Catherine’s, which has meanwhile, are forecast to grow off 2.6 percent to $585.6 million 466 stores, posted flat fourth- in the low- to mid-single-digits, from $601.2 million while same- quarter sales of $75 million along much improved over last year Workers rights are not covered by store sales declined 1 percent. with flat comps. For Fashion when they declined 6 percent. “ By division, Lane Bryant proved Bug, which has 1,051 doors, sales In 2003, the retailer reported World Trade Organization rules. to be the workhorse with sales fell 10.8 percent to $257 million earnings of $40.6 million, or 35 increasing 6.3 percent to $251 in the fourth quarter from $288 cents a diluted share, including Moreover, the WTO prohibits million from $236 million in the million in the prior year with an $11.5 million, or 6 cents, pre- same period last year, and comps declining 4 percent. tax expense related to its cost- unauthorized retaliatory tariffs. comps showing a 1 percent gain. Following a disappointing reduction program. Results re- — Brendan McGivern, White” & Case Dorrit Bern, chairman, chief performance with declining versed a year-ago loss of $2.8 executive and president of comps starting in the second million, or 1 cent, which in- complaint is extremely problem- In December 1996, trade min- Charming Shoppes, told investors half of 2002 and extending cludes costs related to an ac- atic. Workers rights are not cov- isters agreed during a WTO sum- on a morning conference call that throughout much of 2003, man- counting change. ered by World Trade Organization mit in Singapore that the Inter- there are plenty of profit and mar- agement implemented a number Excluding the change and in- rules,” said Brendan McGivern, national Labor Organization “is gin opportunities at Lane Bryant. of merchandising and marketing cluding a $4.8 million, or 2 cent, trade counsel at the Geneva of- the competent body to set and Management said it will alter changes throughout the past pre-tax restructuring credit, earn- fices of the U.S. trade practice of deal with these standards. We re- Lane Bryant’s marketing plans year, including expanding its ca- ings were $46.3 million, or 39 White & Case. “Moreover, the ject the use of labor standards for by transferring some of its direct- reerwear with more mix-and- cents. Sales for the 12 months de- WTO prohibits unauthorized re- protectionist purposes.” mail pieces into magalogues and match separates and offering creased 5.3 percent to $2.29 billion taliatory tariffs.” A European Union official, highlight its improved and more styles. The company also from $2.41 billion in the prior year. Similarly, Alejandro Jara, who spoke on condition of an- Chile’s WTO ambassador, said onymity, acknowledged that “there’s nothing in the WTO to while he considered job trans- justify such action.” fer an inevitable consequence A WTO dispute panel in De- of globalization, Section 301 is cember 1999 ruled that unilateral “quite a flexible tool” for an ad- action by the U.S. under Section ministration that chooses to 301 “against other WTO members wield it. Still, he asserted du- is — under U.S. law as it now ties would be a violation of stands — formally precluded.” trading rules. Morgan Stanley Luxe Report: On No Profits in China Just Yet PARIS — China may one day To date, male-focused design- rival Japan as a bonanza for lux- er brands, including Hugo Boss, ury firms, but profits for most Ermenegildo Zegna and Given- Time brands are at least five years chy, are dominant in ready-to- away. wear; Louis Vuitton in leather That’s the view of Morgan goods; Omega and Rolex in Stanley luxury analyst Claire watches, and Cartier in jewelry. Kent, whose team recently visit- Kent characterized Burberry, ed Hong Kong and China to Richemont and Swatch as taking evaluate prospects for luxury, a more aggressive stance in China pronouncing it no catalyst to than Bulgari, Gucci and Hermès. boosting sales and thus raising Describing Chinese luxury her cautious view on the sector. consumers as no different from In a report issued earlier this others around the world, Kent The news you The news online at 12:01am EDT month, Kent said lower-end pro- nevertheless noted they favor 6 continents, 11 bureaus, 203 ducers are better placed to capi- highly identifiable products over need before you talize on newfound wealth in discreet ones. What’s more, reporters for unmatched coverage China, whereas luxury players women tend to focus on hand- take your first Search the previous five issues of WWD online should view current investments bags initially, whereas small 24/7 access on your desktop, anytime, anywhere as “a brand-building exercise.” leather goods and jewelry are meeting. Kent said Hong Kong re- less appealing. mains the best short-term bet However, she noted that chal- for luxury players as Chinese lenges for luxury players in- consumers with means gravitate clude widespread counterfeiting toward the lower prices and bet- of leather goods, watches and ca- ter selection there. sual sportswear, and import du- The Morgan Stanley report ties of up to 35 percent on some arrives at time when many products. Go to WWD.com brands — from Giorgio Armani As for production, the report to Prada — are pushing into noted that most luxury players China. Kent said the prospects with a tradition of craftsmanship first. insider. authoritative. global. for a firm’s success depend not should resist development there, only on entering the market but it’s an option for more af- early, but “how direct its in- fordable luxury brands such as volvement is in the market.” Burberry. WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 19, 2004 15

Warehousing & Disrtribution DESIGNER Personal service from a Public Warehouse. Couture design house seeking evening Convenient B’klyn. location. All Services wear designer with 4-5 years exp. Must (Ticketing, Pick & Pack, EDI, etc.) have sketching and technical knowl- TURN YOUR UNWANTED Garments, Accessories, Novelties. edge about couture garment SENIOR PRODUCT MANAGER Your back office okay. construction Fast growing beauty brand seeks an CLOTHING and Call Bob Harris @ 917-681-7389 Fax resume to 646-472-0982 indidivual with at least 5 years Prestige Cosmetics Industry experience. Interna- ACCESSORIES INTO CASH tional expertise a must. Only qualified Asafashion executive you probably have DESIGNER applicants will receive a response. acloset full of clothing and accessories Large Intimate Apparel Co. Great Package For the Right Person! that you no longer wear. So why not Seeking a creative, motivated Designer E-mail resumes: [email protected] turn it into some real cash? DoubleTake with Bra & Panties experience. Product is the country’s premiere upscale con- is distributed to mass merchants, mid- signment boutique and because we have Award Winning Designer tier, and Dept. Stores. Strong sense of thousands of customers with an insatia- Men’s Wear Co. with top retail accounts color, trends, follow through, sketching ble appetite for designer fashions, you’re seeks working capital financing. Please skills, and garment construction knowl- guaranteed to get the greatest return. E-mail to: [email protected] edge req’d. Team oriented with proven Call Liz (973-564-6464) now to arrange organizational and interpersonal skills. for a free pick-up and before you know Minimum 2 years exp.. E-mail resumes to: it you’ll be getting your checks. [email protected] Designer NYC Home Gift Decorative Company DENIM SALES EXEC is currently looking for energetic Hot junior denim line seeks Salesper- designers and team players with a son with 5 years experience and fabric and paper background. This proven track record. Excellent compen- person will be responsible for design- sation package for right person. Please ing a wide variety of paper collections fax resume: 212-944-2055 from concept, final art to production layouts. Must have a flair for color, coordinates, and repeats. Production Judith Ripka Companies Bryant Pk Duplex 1100, 2000, 4500 FT. and graphic experience a plus. Some Seeking the Best in Class!!! 20 Ft Ceilings - Great Windows/Views travel may be required. Must be savvy Unique opportunity to join a team of Sales SoHo-Sublet Penthouse 2000 FT in photoshop and illustrator. This Pros at a flagship Madison Ave. Location. Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 position will be reporting directly to 3+ yrs. of luxury sales exp. req’d. with the Creative Director. polished presentation/exceptional commu- RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 Please fax resume to 212-686-3593 PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. nication skills and proven track record. 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 Designer to $100K. Current exp. in woven Strong client following a must. Excellent (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 missy sportswear. Must hang w/ Liz benefits package & high income earning www.resumesforfashion.com Claiborne, J Crew, Ralph Lauren, Tommy potential available. Cosmetic or fashion Bahama, etc. Better dept. storre level fash- exp. is a +++++ Please fax resumes ion vision required Call 973-564-9236 Agcy to Theresa at (212) 244-4560 NEW YORK SALES REP Development Manager Aggressive Salesperson for Road & Show- WARP KNITS room work. Dealing in Eveningwear. Major SE Company seeks experienced, Must be exp’d. & have own contacts. innovative Warp knit expert to manage Good compensation. Fax or E-mail to: key business area. Must be able to analyze, 212-725-9373 / [email protected] design, cost, and develop new fabrics, determine profitable opportunities, work SALES ASSISTANT directly with customers, and coordinate with sales group. Computer knowledge Oleg Cassini & travel required. Please reply to: Fast paced women’s apparel company Broadway Box#M 1035 looking for sales assistant to work and 1411 BROADWAY c/o Fairchild Publications communicate with accounts and other 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl executives. Must be extremely organ- IMMEDIATE OCCUPANCY New York, NY 10001 2500 Sq Ft in 7500 Sq Ft ized and computer literate. Hours 8:30 Hi Tech Installation. -5:30P.M., Salary mid 30,000’s. Fax re- Move In cond Showroom & Office. Draper sume to: 212-947-8750 Att: Greg. Hi Floor, Sensational Views Required for first patterns and supervision BELOW MARKET RENT of sewing first samples. Min 5 years CALL Joseph 212-819-0900 exp. Great opportunity. Fax: 212-382-3623

For Space in Garment Center GRAPHIC ARTIST Leeward International Inc., seeks Helmsley-Spear, Inc. experienced artist for licensed character 212-880-0414 children & Jr. sleepwear. Must be Boutique Salesperson proficient in Photoshop & Illustrator. Upper East Side Designer Women’s Email resume to [email protected] Boutique is seeking experienced sales- Showrooms & Lofts or fax: {212} 869-3938 person. Qualified candidate should BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS have a minimum 5 years upscale sales Great ’New’ Office Space Avail experience, outstanding communica- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Int’l. Fashion Agency tion skills, and be committed to cus- 3 POSITIONS AVAILABLE tomer service. Weekends required. MBA / CPA / Accountant (3-5 years exp.) Some mgmt experience and bilingual Fax resumes to: 212-343-0819 aplus. Please submit resume & salary requirements by fax to 212-734-2123. JIL SANDER RECEPTIONIST/SALES ASSISTANT Corporate office seeks energetic person with strong communication and organi- zational skills. Will maintain showroom 254 West 35th Street and assist wholesale department. Showroom / Light Manufacturing Please fax resumes to: (212) 447-9696 7,000 - 7,500 sq. ft. Owner: 212-860-0020 MIAMI High Fashion Retail office seeks. exp’d., organized person to work w/vendors, DESIGN ASST A/P, & handle admin. tasks in buying RETAIL PLANNER Seeking design asst with min 1 yr. dept. BS deg. pref. Fax to: 305-669-9557 exp. Must have sketching exp. Some Min. 5 yrs. Exp. In Buying, pattern and technical knowledge is re- SALES REP WANTED Planning at Dept. or Chain quired. Must be able to work in a fast PR REPRESENTATIVES Established Embroidery & Trim Firm Strs. Strong Excel skills with paced environment. Luxury Fashion PR Firm seeks seeks Sales Rep in N.Y., Chicago, Miami, Fax resumes to 646-473-0982 Sr. and Jr. Reps for immed. openings. and Texas. Fax resume to: 213-623-6612 working knowledge of Sr. candidates require signif. exp. with press. Word, Power Point. Exp. In PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT & DESIGN Fax resumes: 212.265.5379 Women’s Belt Mfr. Assortment, Shop, Margin Classic with a twist, moderate in price, Plng. Retail math knowl- BAGS Receptionist/Admin. Asst. uncompromising in quality. Looking edge a must. Excellent com- Weare seeking a unique person with Accessory co. seeks indiv. w/ comp. skills for strong sales pro. Territories open. experience, integrity and take charge (Excel) & basic acct. & inventory exp. Fax resume 239-403-8058 or Designer for Music Video munication and interperso- Call Kathi Kilburn 1-866-kk-belts Fashion Designers with 4-8 outfits needed. personality, in the manufacturing process Fax resume to: (212) 868-5965 Hot & Sexy (but Classy) Spring look nal skills with a strong work of cosmetic bags, backpacks, tote bags, outfits! Please mail photos to: Austown Designer ethic. Production plng. Exp. etc. We sell to the low priced discount P.O. Box 12396, Austin, TX 78711 a4yr. Deg. In Bus. Based trade, private label, fragrance and cos- or E-mail catagog: [email protected] Goldluck International metic industry. Must be aware of the GREAT OPPORTUNITY for EXPOSURE! in our Manhattan office, a fashion bag market trends, through (USA) Corp. great opportunity with one magazines and shopping retail. Should Leading Int’l silk necktie co. seeks of the largest and most sta- have a pulse on European trends as self-motivated, creative, and well. Will work directly with China fac- ble apparel companies. tories to establish the most competitive market-oriented designer with 5-7 Fax resume, with salary his- pricing. You should be able to negotiate yrs of necktie design exp. Solid tory, to VP Planning at 212- for the best prices. Heavy e-mailing to exp with silk and computer savvy factories and speaking directly to facto- 868-7935. ries to get your ideas across. Must have a must. Fax/Email resumes to: extensive knowledge of bag construction, 212-448-9288 or [email protected] different material selections and cost Pattern - Production - Samples Apparel Staffing differences, bag specifications, etc. You See Career Openings should know how to develop a product Full - Fast - Quality to fit a budget. Must be extremely organ- Admin/Sales ---- Access co seeking @ www.apparelstaffing.com 212-575-1001 Fax Resume To (212) 302-1161 ized, detail oriented and have excellent detailed oriented individ. w/ strong or- communication and project management ganizational & followup skills. Ability skills. Need to have a handle on numerous to muti-task. Computer literate. 2-3 yrs projects running at the same time. Will exp. Benefits. Fax to: 212-779-9761 Buyer - Golf Apparel Immediate opening for an Apparel work with a small staff to help assist in PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Buyer of Men’s and Women’s clothing. designing, organization of outstanding PRODUCTIONS Admin Since 1967 Prior experience a must. Prior Golf projects, timelines, new projects, pre- Industry experience and private label production, production samples, etc. All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. W-I-N-S-T-O-N Will develop working relationships direct- Call Sherry 212-719-0622. experience a plus. Send Resume and APPAREL STAFFING Salary Requirement to: ly with sales staff and customers. Must [email protected] be a team player and be able to leave DESIGN*SALES*MERCH your "ego" at the door. Knowledge of ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION or 212 Murphy Rd Hartford, CT 06114 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, No Phone Calls will be accepted. drawing and preparing bag specifications (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 for factories. Excel, Adobe Photoshop PRODUCTIONS &Illustrator. Laid back atmosphere. Samples and patterns full servcie shop Allocation/Customer Service Data Entry Clerk All replies held in strict confidence. E-mail to the trade. Fine fast work. Senior level. NJ location Entry level. NJ location your resume with salary history to: 212-869-2699. Please fax Patti: 973-812-1731 Please fax Patti: 973-812-1731 [email protected] 2004 WWD BEAUTY CEO SUMMIT ISSUE To WWD a dve Make sure you’re in the issue r read by the best minds in beauty. tis BEAUTYBIZ e c a ll S ara NEW h M ur Issue Date: May 7 phy, P Close: April 6 ub lis he r, W W D B ea ut y B iz , a t 21 2/ 630 - 46 Our Speakers: 56

Kip Tindell Bernd Beetz William P. Lauder Susan D. Kronick The Container Store Coty Inc. The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. Federated Department Stores Inc.

Harald Stolzenberg Juvena International AG & Jean-Paul Agon John Demsey Laboratoires La Prairie L’Oréal USA Inc. MAC Cosmetics

Nicholas V. Perricone Susan Arnold Marc S. Pritchard N.V.Perricone M.D. Ltd. The Procter & Gamble Company The Procter & Gamble Company

Robin R. Burns Darlene Daggett Jack L. Stahl Robin Coe-Hutshing Victoria’s Secret Beauty QVC Inc. Revlon Inc. Studio at Fred Segal and Intimate Beauty Corp.

Leslie A. Blodgett Jo Horgan Matthew Malin Ellen Rodriquez James Wei Plus: MD Beauty Mecca Cosmetica Malin & Goetz Inc. Kenneth Cole Productions Avon Products

David Collins Jane Hertzmark Betsy Olum Glen T. Senk Dan Wieden Scout Productions Hudis of Beauty Bank Sephora USA LLC Anthropologie Wieden+Kennedy

Artur Grynbaum Sonia Kashuk Maria Renz Jane Terker Call for specific Amazon.com O Boticario Group Sonia Kashuk Professional Cradle Holdings Ltd. program information Makeup at Target

FairchildSummits. Call 212-630-4772 or e-mail [email protected]