EXCLUSIVE LOOK: FIRST SEAN JOHN STORE OPENS ON FIFTH/8 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • August 30, 2004 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Slip Service NEW YORK — Well, what is it, you ask? Coming from Betsey Johnson, it might be almost anything: a tunic, a nightgown, a disco dress or a beach cover-up. But the designer created this look specifically for her new lingerie collection, Betsey Johnson Intimates. She’s taken traditional pieces — panties, bras and slips — and zapped them with her zany imagination. Here, for example, a silk slip with lace trim. For more on the fun side of lingerie, see pages 6 and 7.

Giant, Peaceful Protest Clogs New York Streets, Siphons Retail Sales By Evan Clark and Cate T. Corcoran NEW YORK — Over 100,000 protesters marched through Manhattan Sunday, the eve of the Republican National Convention, decrying the policies of the Bush Administration and slowing retail sales to a trickle in one of the city’s major shopping districts. Apart from slim sales, retailers along the march, such as Macy’s, Gap and H&M, weren’t hurt by any physical damage. Employees from several stores stood in windows or on the sidewalk and took in the spectacle, led off by star power from the likes of Michael Moore, See Retail, Page10 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: KAT/SUPREME; MAKEUP BY LUCKY/JUMP; HAIR BY MICHAEL/SARAH LAIRD; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN LAIRD; STYLED BY MICHAEL/SARAH HAIR BY LUCKY/JUMP; MAKEUP BY ERICKSEN; MODEL: KAT/SUPREME; KYLE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDMONDAY Saks Hires Pair to Lift Private Brand, Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear GENERAL Over 100,000 people descended on New York Sunday, bringing retail to a Eskenasi Said Headed to Kohl’s Corp. 1 standstill as they marched through the city’s busiest shopping district. EYE: Photographer Larry Sultan talks “The Valley,” his book about the By David Moin apparel for private brand and store group’s private brand or- 4 pornography industry in California’s San Fernando Valley...a tasty scoop. product development. He was ganization has developed sever- NEW YORK — The Saks Inc. de- vice president of product devel- al brands, including Relativity, FASHION: Lingerie designers have captured the “Bleach Blanket Bingo” spirit partment store group pumped opment for Studio Works, one of Pursuits, Laura Ashley, and 6 with a bounty of two-piece suits and cover-ups, almost all in playful polkadots. up its private brand and product the group’s largest-volume pri- Ruff Hewn in women’s apparel In a major step to become a “global lifestyle brand,” Sean John will open its development team with two pro- vate brands, and for Brecken- and accessories; Consensus, 8 first store today at 475 Fifth Avenue in New York. motions to cover responsibili- ridge, a women’s brand intro- Cezani, RBM, and Ruff Hewn in ties previously held by Peggy duced earlier this year. men’s apparel; Jane Seymour Classified Advertisements ...... 17-19 Eskenasi, who sources say is in Eskenasi, formerly president and LivingQuarters in home; talks with Kohl’s Corp. of private brand and product de- URIT in children’s apparel, and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is Harris Mustafa, senior vice velopment for the group, Intimate Essentials in intimate [email protected], using the individual’s name. president of planning and oper- abruptly left Saks about two apparel. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 ations for private brand, and a weeks ago, triggering specula- Private brands comprise FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. 30-year retail veteran, has been tion she might be headed to about 16 percent of the depart- VOLUME 188, NO. 45. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three promoted to executive vice pres- Kohl’s Corp. Kohl’s declined to ment store group’s total rev- additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 ident of private brand and prod- comment on Friday. enues of $6 billion, but the com- West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; uct development. Since April, Kohl’s has been pany wants it to go higher to Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Steve Villa, another 30-year searching for an executive vice around 20 percent. The product Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- retail veteran, has been promot- president of product develop- development team for the 240 President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at ed to senior vice president and ment, which would be a new department stores that Saks Inc. additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. general merchandise manager position. operates under such names as POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. of ready-to-wear and intimate Two sources said they be- Parisian, Proffitt’s, McRae’s, FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is lieved Eskenasi already reject- Younkers, Herberger’s and required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new ed an offer from Kohl’s, but one Carson Pirie Scott was formed subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production of them said that Kohl’s came about seven years ago. Saks Inc. correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild back with a higher offer, which also operates Saks Fifth Avenue magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully she was entertaining. “The Enterprises. screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive Kohl’s rumor is hot,” said that Before joining Saks Inc. in these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED source, who added that he 2003, Mustafa was senior vice MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND heard Eskenasi was in the mar- president of business planning TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART ket for a fur coat, indicating she for Williams-Sonoma Inc. Earli- WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE might be headed to where win- er, he worked at Payless Shoe- ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. ters can be brutal. Kohl’s is Source Inc. and Target Stores. based in Menomonee Falls, Villa joined the Saks depart- Wisc., whereas Saks is based in ment store group in 1998 and MONDAY: Republican National Convention, New York Birmingham, Ala. earlier worked at Charming (through Thursday). Since its inception in Janu- Shoppes for four years and at WWDMAGIC, MAGIC, MAGICKIDS, ary 1997, Saks Inc.’s department Sears for 24 years. Fabric@MAGIC, THE WWIN SHOW, ISAM and The Edge, Las Vegas (through Thursday). Moda Moscow (through Wednesday).

TUESDAY: The Conference Board reports on August Specify TAC on your Tech Packs Consumer Confidence Index. WEDNESDAY: Tissu Premier textile show, Lille, France (through Thursday). & see the Savings! Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair (through Sunday).

THURSDAY: Japan Jewelry Fair 2004, Tokyo (through Saturday).

FRIDAY: The Labor Department releases the July em- ployment report. Premiere Classe, Prêt-à-Porter, Atmosphère d’Eté, Casabo Homme and Casabo femme, Who’s Next and Bijorhca, Paris (through Sept. 6). Bijoux fair, Milan (through Sept. 6). COMING THIS WEEK SATURDAY: Lyon Mode City and Interfiliere Lyon, Lyon, France (through Sept. 6). In Brief

● GRANOFF STEPS DOWN: Martin Granoff has resigned his seat on Kellwood Co.’s board, citing personal reasons, the firm said in a statement. “He has had a long and distinguished career in the apparel industry, and the insights he brought to our com- pany have been immeasurable,” said chairman and chief execu- tive officer Hal Upbin. Granoff joined the board in 1999 after Kellwood merged with Koret Inc., where he was vice chairman. The departure brings Kellwood’s board to nine people, seven of which are outside directors.

● NEW DIGS: Nordstrom said Friday that it is tentatively sched- uled to move into a new Salt Lake City home in 2007. The Seattle-based retailer signed a letter of intent with Bloomfield Hills, Mich.-based Taubman Centers to remain in downtown Salt Lake City as part of a major redesign of the Crossroads Plaza Mall and ZCMI Mall blocks. The redevelopment will include a new 124,000-square-foot location for Nordstrom, as well as the addition of other retail stores, restaurants, and living, office and hotel space. Nordstrom, which operates 149 stores located in 27 states, has been in its current downtown Salt Lake City store Production Locations: since August 1980, and will remain open during the construc- Bangladesh, Cambodia, Central America, China, tion. Taubman Centers, a real estate investment trust, currently owns and/or manages 31 urban and suburban shopping centers Dubai, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Israel, Korea, Mexico, in 13 states, with a new one in Charlotte, N.C.’s Northlake Mall, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Turkey, Taiwan, Thailand, USA, Vietnam slated to open in September 2005. APPAREL GROUP MAGIC BOOTH #ST30438

* Licensed Brand 212.944.1330 • jordachecorporate.com 4 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Daze in ‘The Valley’ LOS ANGELES — In 1998, photographer Larry Sultan had a Photos from the Larry Sultan porn-again conversion. He was commissioned to shoot the making of an adult film for a magazine and the set, oddly book, “The Valley”: “Boxers, Mission Hills.” eye® enough, was a house in the San Fernando Valley suburbs. “I walked through the garage,” recalls Sultan, on the phone from his studio in the San Francisco Bay area, “and found an ordinary house with a rather extraordinary scene taking place.” A porn production company had rented the house from its owner, a dentist, and it had all the trappings of suburban, house-proud taste. “What fascinated me was the banality of this oversize suburban home,” Sultan says, “and the transgressive quality of what happened when the owner left. I knew it was perfect for the kind of work I was interested in.” This, Sultan realized, was the American dream home, but the owner had been dislodged by an unruly “family” of sex professionals and the domestic fantasy had been displaced by one of unbridled sexual adven- ture. Over the next five years, Sultan returned to the San Fernando sub- urbs — the Silicone Valley of America’s multibillion-dollar porn industry — to photograph the comings and goings of Monica Mayhem, Michael J. Cox, Red Heaven, Alexandra Silk, Lexington Steele, Taylor St. Claire, Holly Hollywood and other stars of the porn industry. “I wasn’t interested in sex,” insists the photographer, who is married with two teenaged sons. “It actually took me a while to make pictures that weren’t overwhelmed by the pornography. I have a dislike of work that purports to be documentary but preys on the pleasure of naked bodies.” His work is the subject of a new book, “The Valley,” and a traveling exhibit that will be seen in New York starting Sept. 8 at the Janet Borden Gallery. There’s plenty of nudity, of course, but often the actual sex is glimpsed from an oblique, phantom’s eye perspective: A threesome of limbs tangle at the edge of the wall-to-wall carpet. A naked man stares out a kitchen window. What is he thinking about? And how did he get those red scratches on his sweaty back? “The Valley” explores a world many would find sordid. Even so, Sultan places himself squarely in the tradition of Northern California romanti- cists Minor White, Edward Weston and Ansel Adams, all of whom attempt- ed to convey the mysterious and the sublime through their pictures of the PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE STEPHEN WIRTZ GALLERY, SAN FRANCISCO, AND THE JANET BORDEN GALLERY, NEW YORK AND THE JANET BORDEN GALLERY, SAN FRANCISCO, GALLERY, OF THE STEPHEN WIRTZ PHOTOS COURTESY American West. The porn films he documents were all made in rented suburban houses and some of Sultan’s most moving photographs show no bodies at all. Instead, his camera scans interior vistas of carpeted staircases and vacant dining rooms. He finds accidental still lifes in a kitchen sink, or on the den floor, where a bottle of baby oil has been dropped next to a stack of schoolbooks. Sultan’s porn-star subjects were initially un- sure of what to make of such images. The usual role of a photographer on an adult film set is to snap close-ups of the actresses — called “pretty girl shots” — or to zoom in at the crucial moment. “They call for the still photographer when there’s a pop shot,” Sultan explains, “and when I wouldn’t run up and grab my camera, the di- rector would say, ‘What’s he doing?’” But as the cast and crew came to under- stand Sultan’s project, they took pains to help “Topanga Skyline it along. “When they figured out what I was in- “Hills” Drive #1” “Hills” Drive #1” terested in,” he recalls, “they would point out things like a dog barking or a piece of fabric in the backyard. Someone would say, ‘Call Larry!’” Only one shot depicts actual sex, and it was among the last taken dur- ing the project. Sultan made it after realizing he’d been so leery of shoot- ing sex that he had missed the purely sensual aspect of pornography. Although the subject matter of “The Valley” doesn’t have a direct precedent in Sultan’s work, it continues themes from the 1977 book “Evidence,” long considered a landmark in conceptual art and newly reis- sued by DAP. For “Evidence,” Sultan and his collaborator, Mike Mandel, sifted through the vast archives of government agencies and technology corporations and culled 55 photographs that narrate a dark and some- times hilarious attempt to control nature and build a brighter future. “ ‘Evidence,’ is about the attempt to control and the loss of control,” says Sultan. “The family is the height of attempting to control nature, and yet we make a mess of it. In porn work, you find the control and se- curity of family, but the hominess has been made uncanny. Something has been unloosened.” Sultan’s next project will take him back to the suburbs, this time around San Francisco, to examine the changes caused by Mexican and South American immigrants in the manicured enclaves of white America. “The overarching theme of my work is depicting how complicated suburban life has become,” Sultan said. “We project our dreams on sub- urban life, and we are constantly disappointed.” — Kevin West

HE LOVES THE NIGHTLIFE: Goya Foods heir ap- parent Andy Unanue, 36, who was ousted from EYE SCOOP his role as the company’s chief operating officer by two cousins earlier this year, is opting for a more glamorous vocation: nightlife impresario. Unanue recently purchased a former S&M club on West 13th Street, a few doors down from Spice Market. Aer, a swanky “Super Lounge” with a waterfall entrance and a Japanese garden, will open to the public late this fall. Private members will be able to access a downstairs area called Aether, which will have its own entrance as well as a business center. Both will serve Caribbean-inspired “Havenhurst” food. No word on whether Goya products will be used in the kitchen. WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 5 WWW.WWD.COM

latex sponges, Lipchic, cotton tissues, translucent lip gloss, face matte and sparkle — will retail for $75. A companion Brian Collie to Retire at BAA Bridesmaid Kit in a blue mesh bag with Fastlash, an eyelash LONDON — Brian Collie, group Michele Gay remarked. base coat to increase eyelash Fireworks Kit; LaFemme Lip comb, antishine gel, makeup re- retail director of BAA, which Prospective customers can log length; Alcone Derma Mini Glosses; an Alcone Cooler Pack; mover cloths, eyelash curler and runs the major U.K. airports and on and purchase newly assem- Palette Kit, a set of wax-based the Perfect Eyebrow Kit; the Lip Chic will retail for $40. All operates related retail space, bled cosmetics kits, which in- concealers, and Alcone Brush Neutral Set Powder Kit, and the will be available only on the will retire at the end of the year, clude the branded products man- Kit. There’s also Super Matte Eyeliner Kit are part of the 12- Web site. the company stated Friday. ufactured and distributed by Antishine Kit, which contains a month program. Alcone plans to use direct Collie, who has been with Long Island City, N.Y.-based Each set comes with step-by- mail to court new customers, as BAA for 12 years, was instrumen- Alcone, such as Ben Nye, Krylon, step instructions for application. well as an incentive plan for re- tal in fueling sales growth at BAA La Femme and Japonesque. Alexandra Gay claimed the price ferrals. Industry sources project — and transforming Britain’s air- An annual membership fea- BEAUTY BEAT points — kits retail for $24.95 per an influx of 10,000 new cus- port terminal lounges into luxu- tures a kit each month, and mem- month — are a result of Alcone’s tomers in the site’s first 12 ry shopping malls. bers get incentives, such as per- translucent oil-eliminating gel; ability to regulate costs as the months, with a membership re- “Brian has been the key player centage discounts. Non-members Alcone Tools Kit, featuring the manufacturer of the products. tention rate of 7 percent, which in establishing BAA as the world’s can buy on a per-kit basis. line’s “bread and butter” sponges In addition, the Bridal Must- is thought to be high for such a leading airport retailer, and we The annual program features and other makeup artist accou- Have Kit — a silver mesh bag venture. Twelve new kits have will be sorry to lose him,” stated the following kits: Fastlash trements, and the Alcone Lip containing Fastlash, an eyelash been pipelined for Alcone Mike Clasper, chief executive offi- branded kits, a core offering that Palette, which includes the Lip comb, powder puffs, makeup re- Beauty Club’s second year. cer of BAA. features a white polyester fiber Chic lipstick sealer. Additionally, mover cloths, antishine gel, non- —Stephanie Leigh LaCava Collie said the decision to step down was “purely person- al,” and he does not plan to seek any full-time executive position in the airport or retail indus- tries. Collie, who is also stepping down from the BAA plc board, said he’ll be working closely with BAA management to choose his successor. Over the past few years, BAA executives have come to think like retailers: They invented merchandising for summer fra- grances as a holiday category, and they launch fragrances much like traditional depart- ™ ment stores. Collie himself over- STYLEMAX saw the ambitious Heathrow Terminal 3 retail project, which was unveiled last summer. The SPRING 2005 $167 million plan transformed the terminal from a ho-hum OCTOBER 16-19, 2004 shopping area into a luxury goods mecca with stores includ- ing Gucci, Chanel, Hugo Boss and Ermenegildo Zegna. It also featured the first-ever airport MAC unit. When Armani Cosmetics debuted in London, it launched at Harvey Nichols — and at Heathrow’s Terminal 3 ex- clusively. “Our goal was to give fliers a reason to shop, with EXPERIENCE FASHION. stores on the way — but not in the way,” Collie said before Ter- OVER 4,000 OF THE NATION’S minal 3 opened. THE MERCHANDISE MART CHICAGO In the three months to June TOP LINES. 30, the U.K. airports business, including World Duty Free, re- EXPERIENCE CONVENIENCE. ported a rise of 11.2 percent in revenue to 498 million pounds, ONE EASY-TO-SHOP SHOW or $911.3 million, from 448 mil- lion pounds, or $819.8 million. FLOOR, DISCOUNTED HOTEL AND TRAVEL RATES Operating profit rose 15.5 per- cent to 164 million pounds, or EXPERIENCE EXCITEMENT. $300 million, from 142 million pounds, or $260 million. — Samantha Conti ATTEND LIVE FASHION SHOWS AND ENJOY OUR MARKET PARTIES Alcone Sets Web Club EXPERIENCE MORE. NEW YORK — Alcone, a manu- facturer and distributor of color NEW ACCESSORY AND cosmetics under numerous pro- CONTEMPORARY RESOURCES fessional brand names, wants to PREMIERING AT STYLEMAX make these items accessible to those outside the makeup artist ALWAYS GROWING community. ALWAYS NEW The firm has created Alcone Beauty Club, a membership- ALWAYS THE ULTIMATE EXPERIENCE based operation at alconebeauty- club.com. The site, which went THE MERCHANDISE MART, CHICAGO live in April, and the Alcone Beauty Club program, are on For discounted hotel and airline rates, track to generate first-year sales log on to our Web site or call Mart of $1 million. Travel Services at 800.528.8700. Sisters-in-law and founders Michele and Alexandra Gay are For more information or to register for hoping to capitalize on Alcone’s STYLEMAX, visit our Web site or call existing following among profes- 800.677.6278. sional makeup artists. “We want- ed to provide consumers with www.merchandisemart.com the tricks of the trade in the form of practical products they can’t find anywhere else,” 6 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

Beachy Keen NEW YORK — Remember Annette Funicello and Frankie Avalon’s beach romps? Well, lingerie designers have captured that Sixties spirit with a bounty of whimsical two-piece suits and charming cover-ups. And almost everything comes in playful polkadots. Bingo!

Felina’s nylon and Lycra slip and matching bra. WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 7 WWW.WWD.COM

Silk satin top from On Gossamer and Cotton bandeau Silk satin bloomers Damaris’ cotton and Lycra panties. and shorts from and nylon, polyester Morgenthal-Frederics sunglasses. My Sweet Cherry. and Lycra bra from Loungewear Betty. N; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN N; STYLED BY

Donna L’Oren’s nylon and Lycra spandex bra and briefs. DKNY towel. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: KAT/SUPREME; HAIR BY MICHAEL/SARAH LAIRD; MAKEUP BY LUCKY/JUMP; FASHION ASSISTANT: SARAH PERLMA SARAH ASSISTANT: FASHION LUCKY/JUMP; LAIRD; MAKEUP BY MICHAEL/SARAH HAIR BY ERICKSEN; MODEL: KAT/SUPREME; KYLE PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Sean John Store Driven by Profits, Not Puffery

By David Moin Building costs were kept down too, according to Greg Anderson of InSite Development, the project management firm that helped develop the concept and NEW YORK — Another designer temple? build the store. He said Sean John spent less than other Fifth Avenue stores, which The first Sean John store opening today at 475 Fifth Avenue could have been just he said cost a minimum of $1,000 a foot to build, but can go as high as $3,000. that, considering P. Diddy’s larger than life persona, and his dream to grow Sean The interior is monochromatic and undeniably men’s wear in character, with John, as he says, into a “global lifestyle brand.” cream and chocolate brown tones. The walls and fixtures are in Macassar zebra wood And it’s got a majestic entrance with huge slabs of Idaho travertine that flow into and shagreen, with champagne metal trims, brushed nickel hardware, frosted bronze the interior, a 22-foot wide window, and an inside inspired by P. Diddy’s apartment glass walls, and smoke colored acrylic panels. “It’s quintessential Sean John,” and lifestyle, not to mention the prestigious Fifth Avenue address. Soriano said. Yet Sean John, on the southeast corner of 41st Street across from the New York The entrance has two oversized glass doors, 10-feet-tall each, and just inside, Public Library’s famous lions, hardly falls in line with Fifth Avenue’s phalanx of de- there’s a long 60-foot corridor, which Soriano called a “runway.” It forms the access to signer flagships. In the 50s, designer flagships can be three to five times larger, far merchandised rooms on the right, about 100 square feet each, that flow like a gallery, more elaborate and costly in with areas for gifts, home decor, their design, and ego-driven. accessories, sunglasses and To the contrary, Sean John is men’s grooming products. The an unintimidating, easy-to-shop, left side of runway is merchan- 3,000 square feet of selling space, dised along the wall. driven by product development The store’s other major ele- and a strategy focused on attain- ment is the main shopping area ing profitability fast. The Sean to the left of the runway corridor. John team restrains from calling The store carries men’s wear, in- the store a flagship, and ego cluding Sean John’s sportswear, seems secondary to profit and outerwear, leather goods, acces- product. While there are plenty sories, furnishings, boys’ cloth- of photos of P. Diddy on video ing, and the higher-priced Sean sets and in the studio, they’re on John Collection for suits, ties, shelves above eye-level, as part shirts, home and grooming prod- of the backdrop. ucts. A great deal of merchandise “We want to give our cus- has been developed expressly for tomers a shopping experience the store, including exclusive like none they have ever had,” sunglasses, pillows, faux fur said Sean “P. Diddy” Combs, throws, iPod cases, grooming founder and president of Sean products, and dog clothing and John, which is currently about a accessories designed by Fifi & $400 million business at retail. Romeo of Los Angeles. Sean “We are excited about sharing John shirts and ties are produced our vision of the Sean John by Phillips-Van Heusen and lifestyle with the world. This Mulberry, respectively. store will provide a physical Premium denim starts at $100. presence for the brand and set Other exclusives are limited edi- the tone for the global expansion tion studded jeans, priced at of Sean John.” $250, faux mink throws with faux For any designer or manufac- suede trim priced at $895 and turer, entering retailing is always matching pillows, $205. a gamble, and Sean John’s loca- There’s a separate entrance tion, on a stretch of Fifth Avenue on 41st Street for slipping in virtually devoid of better fashion celebrity clients, who will get retailing, adds to the risk. whisked into a VIP room with a Between Saks Fifth Avenue on bar, and work with a personal 49th Street and Lord & Taylor on shopper. 38th Street, the only other fash- “We firmly believe in the ion stores are Ann Taylor, Fossil, lifestyle approach to retailing, Forman’s, Sisley, Zale, and The and part of that approach is non- New York Look. However, there’s apparel product, to complement plenty of foot traffic, fueled by our existing apparel lines we Grand Central Station, Bryant have developed several exclusive Park, the library and the vast of- product categories for the retail fice-worker population. stores,” said Jeffrey Tweedy, exec- Sean John, considering its utive vice president of Sean John. drawing power, could be the mag- Sean John plans to introduce net that pulls additional fashion women’s sportswear for fall 2005, retailers to the area, and there are and it’s possible that the Fifth signs that’s already happening, Avenue store will accommodate with Zale opening last week on the some women’s. If women’s get to southeast corner of 38th Street. point where it’s big with con- “We firmly believe this store sumers, Tweedy said Sean John will change the landscape be- women’s stores could be devel- tween 34th and 42nd Streets,” oped. said Charles Soriano, Sean John’s “If men’s is incredibly pro- vice president of retail. “It’s really ductive, why disturb that? Why the crossroads of the world. disrupt the success?” added There’s incredible local and Soriano. “Women’s is a very im- tourist traffic that will supply us portant component of a global with the sales per square foot we lifestyle brand. At this point, it is need. We want to create a buzz in difficult to say how much busi- this area, much like Jeffrey did in ness we will do in women’s.” PHOTOS BY JOHN CALABRESE PHOTOS BY the Meatpacking District.” Clockwise from top: The “runway” leads shoppers through a series of merchandise rooms; exclusive products; the Future stores, men’s or The retail game plan for Sean main apparel room, and the understated exterior logo. women’s, will be smaller than the John is “first and foremost to de- Fifth Avenue unit. Tweedy said velop a profitable, scalable business model, with a merchandising strategy, product they will likely contain around 3,000 square feet [gross] while Fifth Avenue has 3,500 strategy, and a real estate strategy that can extend itself beyond one door,” Soriano square feet. “Usually you read about designers opening 10,000 to 30,000 square feet. said. “Once we have this perfected, which we will, we will have the capacity to expand We are not interested in that,” Tweedy said. “We are interested in making money. The across the world. But first things first. We want to make sure we have this model right.” store has the best taste level, but we’ve kept sensible about the budget and being prof- Market sources said Sean John is seeking around $1,000 in sales per square foot at itable. We are rolling this out to be in the retail business. First in our thought process the location, which translates to about $3 million in annual sales. Soriano would not was to keep these things small.” comment on sales, though he did say, “We are planning to achieve sales per square Asked how aggressive the retail rollout will be, Tweedy replied, “We are not going foot comparable to competitors up the street on Fifth Avenue, and planning the store to be foolish. We will let the consumer create the demand for us. I’m not looking to be to be profitable in the first year or year and a half.” the Gap.” He said there is no concrete expansion plan. The site was also chosen because its rent is lower compared with Fifth Avenue in There have also been unconfirmed reports that a U.S. chain of 200 to 300 stores is the 50s, the prime stretch for fashion retailing. Rents on Fifth Avenue around 42nd envisioned, but Soriano said the only other definite store is in the Beverly Center in Street are anywhere from $150 to $200 a square foot for a corner location, whereas in Los Angeles for an April 2005 opening. A store in Garden State Plaza in Paramus, N.J. the 50s, they can be as high as $500 to over $1,000 a square foot. One source said Sean is in the works, and deals are pending in Las Vegas, Houston, Hawaii, and the San John received some free rent, possibly for a year, but Soriano would not discuss the Francisco area. Another Manhattan store is “definitely an option,” Soriano said. rent rate. Previously Steve Greenberg, of The Greenberg Group retail real estate con- “Again, it all hinges on the success of our Fifth Avenue store. It isn’t so much a time sultants, which has been working with Sean John, said the brand was paying a third of continuum as a profitability continuum. Once we reach certain financial objectives the rents seen along Fifth Avenue in the 50s. and achieved certain metrics, we will be able to expand.” Go Global.

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Continued from page one Retail sales came to a stand still as protesters Rev. Jesse Jackson and Danny Glover. The march went from 23rd Street up took to the streets Sunday, blocking the Seventh Avenue past Madison Square Garden, the site of the GOP conven- entrances of such stores as Macy's, H&M, tion, east on 34th Street past Victoria’s Secret, Banana Republic and Old Gap, Banana Republic and Victoria's Secret. Navy and down Fifth Avenue to Broadway and eventually to Union Square. Many in the protest, held under a hot sun and a cloudless sky on one of the most humid days of the summer, hefted signs that read “Bush lies, who dies? Bring the troops home now” and chanted slogans like “No more war,” while others carried what were meant to be caskets draped in American flags. Attendance estimates ranged from 120,000 to over 400,000. The protesters were organized by United for Peace and Justice, an um- brella organization with more than 800 member groups, including Historians Against the War, Punks For Peace, Queer to the Left, and the Brooklyn Society for Ethical Culture. The New York Police Department Sunday afternoon confirmed that there were some arrests, but did not yet have specific numbers. Reports of about 50 arrests came from various media outlets. There were about 300 convention-related arrests prior to Sunday. Solstice, the small, but usually busy sunglass store selling designer frames such as Chanel and Kate Spade on 34th Street was empty during the march and had three salespeople at the door. “Business was OK until it started. We’re having a 25 percent off ‘We Hate Bush Sale,’” joked one of the associates. “No, not really. We are hav- ing a sale, though.” H&M, usually packed with customers, was practically deserted in the early afternoon. The employees outnumbered shoppers, of whom there were a handful on the first floor. “It’s been like this ever since yesterday,” said a woman who was restocking pants. “[The protests] started yesterday. It’s going to be like this all week.” Convention Snapshot Victoria’s Secret was more lively, though there looked to be no more Monday: 10 a.m.-1 p.m. and 8-11 p.m. than 25 customers in the two-story flagship. A salesman was helping two Theme of the Day: Japanese women with makeup on the first floor. A woman shopper in her Fashion and Retail early 30s going down the escalator said, “I live here in New York. I knew Speakers and Agenda: about the demonstration. I don’t mind.” ● Morning session: New Steve Madden, the shoe boutique, was one of the busiest stores on 34th York Mayor Michael Street, with shoppers filling almost every corner of the small store and two Bloomberg. women making a purchase. “It was totally dead earlier today,” said a sales- ● Evening Session: former man. “It’s a little pocket,” he said, describing the sudden minicrowd. When New York Mayor Rudolph Giuliani and Arizona told the march was almost over, he said, “I hope not. I’m getting tired of Sen. John McCain. Bush.” ● Adoption of party platform. At Zara on 34th Street, a saleswoman and a security guard chatted with Rallies the policeman assigned outside the store. When the policeman left, the ● 11 a.m.: RNC Protest Bowl, AMF Chelsea saleswoman joined two of her associates in the back of the store. “There’s Piers Lanes, Pier 60, 23rd Street at the West nobody here. We love it. This is free money. We get paid to sit here and do Side Highway. nothing. No commissions, though,” said the saleswoman. ● Noon: March on New York: Still We Rise, Stephanie Doucette, manager at Intermix at 125 Fifth Avenue (between Union Square Park. 19th and 20th Streets) didn’t see much interruption. “It’s actually been ● 4 p.m.: March for Our Lives, Stop the War fine. Sundays aren’t a super crazy strong day. It’s a typical Sunday here. at Home, United Nations, East 45th Street The girls are so excited for fall, nothing’s going to stop them.” and First Avenue. Kim Zied, manager at Chelsea Jeans at Seventh Avenue and 23rd Street ● 7 p.m.: Fighting the Bush Agenda: Can we said the store would normally do about $1,000 of business by 11 a.m., but do better than “Anybody But Bush,” had only sold $10 worth of bandannas. Cathedral of St. John the Divine, 110th “I’m trying to make him [Zied] close early so we can march,” said Street and Amsterdam Avenue. Evelyn Corna, a sales associate at the store who was donning a sticker for Michael Moore Parties and Events the protest. ● Breakfast and fashion shows at Macy’s and The big question mark going into the march was whether it would end Bloomingdale’s. at Union Square, where it was scheduled to, or in Central Park, where or- ● 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m: Luncheon at J.P. ganizers were unable to obtain permission for a rally due to concerns Morgan Chase for “Women Run For Bush.” about damaging the grass. ● 1 p.m.: A Taste of New York in The Cellar at A small crowd of about 100 was at Union Square while the rest of the Macy’s Herald Square. march dispersed. Some protesters slowly made the journey to Central ● 5-7 p.m. Montblanc, 598 Madison Avenue, Park. A growing protest gathered on the Great Lawn by late afternoon with reception for the Ronald Reagan Library. over a thousand people holding banners and banging drums under the ● 6:30-8:30 p.m.: Private shopping and watchful eyes of the police. There were also reports of a communist group cocktail party at Cartier feting Rep. David in the park who took over a section of the lawn and spelled out “No” with Dreier. their bodies. ● 10 p.m.-1-a.m.: Bergdorf Goodman-Susan The war in Iraq was the single biggest complaint against the Bush ad- G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation benefit. ministration by the protesters, but it was not the only issue of concern. ● 7-10 p.m.: MTV’s Rock the Vote concert, Many had fiscal complaints, stressing that large tax breaks, coupled Central Park.

will be there for pampering. One attendee advised the staff she Fourth Street tonight through Wednesday. The play explores plans to stop by for a mimosa, but will skip the treatment. political morality and moral relativity. As the First Lady, Hunter New York Notes Exhale is playing both sides of the field, with plans to open reads Dostoevsky to the ghosts of Iraqi children. Cynthia Nixon a spa in Boston in December — with a month to spare before reads the role of an angel. NO PLACE LIKE HOME: Former President George H. Bush and the inauguration. Nixon is expected to be on hand later Monday night, when some of his kin are said to be staying at the Union League Moby, Lou Reed and Joan Osbourne jam at the Beacon Theater Club. Within walking distance of Madison Square Garden, the PARTY FAVORS: This week Republicans can wear their party on at Planned Parenthood’s “Stand Up for Choice” concert. Murray Hill spot is crawling with Secret Service. A Union their sleeve or blouse with Alex & Ani’s red, white, blue and League Club spokesman declined to comment, other than to black Swarovski crystal elephant pin. The Providence, R.I.- SAVE IT: Guests at Saturday’s RNC Media Welcome party at the say, “There is a lot of security.” based company shipped a few boxes of the $48 pieces to the Time Warner Center picked up coupon books for The Shops at The original New York location of the club was built in White House in time for the RNC. It is also available at Columbus Circle. Eileen Fisher, Calvin Klein Underwear, A/X 1859 as the home of Sir Winston Churchill’s grandfather; it Alexandani.com. Armani Exchange, Tumi, Tourneau, Equinox and Joseph Abboud stood at the corner of East 26th Street and Madison Avenue, But company founder Carolyn Rafaelian is not playing were among the companies that kicked in discounts and special but was demolished in 1966. The new location is at 37th favorites. She has also designed a version in the shape of a offers. Some were less generous than others. Williams-Sonoma’s Street and Park Avenue. donkey. Earlier this month, Chelsea Clinton was given one while gift certificate promoted its one-day in-store demos. dining at The Spotted Pig in Manhattan with her father. WAITING TO EXHALE: Florida Rep. Katherine Harris and about 50 KEEPING COOL: Diana Taylor, Mayor Bloomberg’s ladyfriend, is other female Republican politicians and heavy-hitters will ease NO COMMENT: Holly Hunter is waving off interviews about her taking the RNC in stride. The state banking superintendent into the convention Monday morning with spa treatments at pro bono portrayal of Laura Bush in Tony Kushner’s “Only We said she hasn’t made any special clothing purchases for this Exhale on the Upper East Side. Press is banned from the Who Guard the Mystery Shall Be Unhappy.” Her free readings week’s festivities. “It’s just another week in New York. New pedicures, so they’ll be dishing the dirt in private. Not everyone will be staged at the Manhattan Theater Workshop at 79 East York is a place that has lots of events all the time.” WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 11 WWW.WWD.COM New York Welcome NEW YORK — Party lines — political or social — are seldom what they seem, es- nt New York Protest pecially at a media-heavy Saturday night bash for 6,500. Several insiders at the Republican with the costs of the war, were draining funding from other areas, such as National Convention’s welcome party at education. The continuing migration of jobs to lower-wage countries, the Time Warner Center here proved which has decimated the domestic apparel manufacturing industry, was a that wit and tact will go a long way in key issue for labor leaders. the days ahead. “It’s known as Fashion Avenue because thousands of garment workers Asked if he had any last-minute ad- made their living before, here on this Avenue,” said Wilfredo Larancuent, vice for designers preparing for 7th on international vice president of textile and apparel union UNITE/HERE, of Sixth in the midst of the RNC, Mayor the starting point of the march. He spoke at a press conference just before Michael Bloomberg said, “I think it’s things got under way. going to be a great fashion year with Many fashion companies still have offices in the area, but few actually record-breaking crowds.” produce merchandise in the city. Fox News’ Greta Von Susteren was Among the throngs of the march, where many banged on drums and more direct when asked for a few tell- helicopters whirred overhead, Tex Snape, vice president of Local 331 of tale signs of New Yorkers versus UNITE, said, “Our future is with Kerry, not Bush.” U.S. jobs being shipped Washingtonians. “There are much more overseas are “taking bread from the people that live in this country.” conservative dressers in D.C. We’re the “We figure it’s time for a change and it’s time to give the next guy a ones asking directions. But we know all chance,” he said. “It can’t get no worse.” the names of the senators and politi- The crowd overall, though, was fueled by a general animosity toward cians, and can actually identify the peo- the Bush administration. ple in the convention.” “We’re here today because we’re really happy because the Republicans have only a few months left,” said Moore at the press conference. “We’re going to give them a nice smile and a wave as we go up Seventh Avenue here.” Someone from the crowd shouted, “We love you Michael Moore.” Rep. Charles Rangel (D., N.Y.), said it was an act of “chutzpah” for President Bush to bring the convention to the site of the Sept. 11th terror- ists attacks at the World Trade Center. “One day, somebody’s going to ask, ‘When the world went crazy, ... what were you doing?’” said Rangel. The marchers could say they were trying to bring some sanity, he added. Police officers at the march prepared for the worst, with a significant presence and, in at least some cases, with protective masks in case of a chemical attack from terrorists, but the worst never came. The threat of another terrorist attack, in what is now a heavily forti- fied city for the convention, did not dissuade the protesters. “My con- cerns are more about what the country might do,” said Nikki Morse, who came from Philadelphia for the protest. “Our national policies are what make us unsafe.” Ruth, another protester, called talk of a terrorist attack “fear prop- aganda.” PHOTOS BY KEITH SMITH PHOTOS BY For some demonstrators, just carrying a sign or wearing a sticker was Counterclockwise from top: At the Media not enough to express their grievances. Welcome party, Mayor Michael Bloomberg, Joe Treichel skated on in-line skates in front of the protest wearing a Larry King, Gov. George Pataki and Rudy mask with the face of President Bush with devil horns and black wings. He Giuliani. Bloomberg stirs things up, Don King found a receptive audience among the hordes of news crews, walking and a model in Time magazines. backwards in front of the march. “We dropped the ball,” said Treichel. “We didn’t go with world opinion, So, what is Larry King most looking we’ve isolated ourselves in the world.” forward to this week? “Ending it. It’s The crowd erupted into cheers as the march passed the Fashion hard to go to an event where you know Institute of Technology and people on top of a building across the street the outcome. It’s like going to the Super unfurled a 25-foot tall pink banner in the shape of a dress, with ruffles and Bowl and you know who wins. We’re all, that read “Bush Lied Fire Him.” looking for news and it’s mostly manu- Danny Glover Some didn’t necessarily want to march in the heat, but felt compelled to. factured here,” he said, “It’s fun and it’s “I’d like to be somewhere nice and air conditioned sitting down,” said a party. You get to see people in political Debbie, a secretary and puppeteer who declined to give her last name. circles gathered in one room. But it’s not She was prepared none-the-less for the walk, wearing a hat and sun- a news story — unless something hap- dress. “I’m just so completely appalled by this administration and this pens, and then you want to be there.” president. You cannot give an enormous tax cut and expect to support an A self-described “Republocrat,” Don overseas war.” King, in a star spangled jean jacket with The protesters had their own protesters along Seventh Avenue, with five oversized pro-Bush campaign but- signs reading “Right is right, left is wrong.” tons, said he will support the president Christine Mele, who was taking part in the counter demonstration, said, for four more years. Like Bush, he be- “[I’m] pro-Bush and anti-Kerry flip-flopper.” lieves Democrats “have to give black “I think it’s anti-American,” she said of the march. “I think it’s voters a sound basis of why you should communistic.” vote for them,” he said. There were others, though, not directly protesting against the “Martin Luther King told me both march, who were supporting the president in the run up to the conven- parties use black voters for a political tion. football. They promise us everything Mayor Michael Bloomberg and Governor George Pataki arrived at the and they give us nothing,” King said. Bryant Park Grill shortly after 1 p.m. on Sunday at a welcoming event for Russell Simmons’ and P. Diddy’s gay Republicans known as the Log Cabin Republicans. Both referred to voter registration campaigns earned their presence there as indicative of the city’s welcoming attitude toward points with King. “I think it’s wonderful. everyone. The more people we can register to vote “New York City, which I am responsible for, is open to everyone and you the better — regardless of who they vote will see that this week,” Bloomberg said as protesters were making their for,” King said. “People have died — way across West 34th Street, eight blocks to the south. “We welcome people black and white — for the right to vote,” from all over the world to express themselves. The only rule is you can’t King said. “Some have put their lives on take anyone else’s rights away.” the line for the question of freedom, Bloomberg has faced criticism for encouraging the Republican party justice and equality.” to stage its convention in the predominantly Democratic city. Following CNN’s Wolf Blizter noted the the nominal economic impact of the Democratic National Convention on Democratic National Convention has the city of Boston last month, there have also been questions of whether been held here five or six times, but this taxes raised by the activities of visiting delegates will offset the cost of is a first for the RNC. Asked about the security. Bloomberg noted in his speech that hotel occupancy is 13 per- irony of having the RNC in this largely cent ahead of what it was a year ago. Pataki added that staging the con- Democratic state, Blitzer said, “It’s iron- vention in New York also holds importance as an illustration of the city ic that New York has a Republican as a symbol of freedom. mayor and a Republican governor.” “We are going to have a great week and a great celebration,” Pataki As for his own staying power for the said, then teased the visiting delegates: “And at the end of that week, I week ahead, Blitzer said, “Pace your- hope you leave.” After a dramatic pause, he continued, “I hope you leave self. It’s like war. You want to make sure with a little more appreciation of the greatness of this city and the you have enough for the next day.” strength of Republican policies.” — Rosemary Feitelberg

PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE AND KYLE ERICKSEN THOMAS IANNACCONE AND KYLE PHOTOS BY —With contributions from Eric Wilson and Lisa Lockwood 12 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Innerwear Report Jaime Pressly: Let’s Make a Deal

By Karyn Monget WWD: “I really love lingerie. I’m someone who has to be in high heels and un- comfortable things all the time. You have to bear pain to be beautiful. I feel lin- NEW YORK — After a year hawking her pro- gerie is a big hassle. Pretty stuff is so uncomfortable. I hate built-in boobs. That’s prietary line of lingerie, actress Jaime Pressly why I wanted to design lingerie that is comfortable.” is on the prowl for a lingerie deal with a Pressly got the idea to do her own lingerie on the set of “Torque.” She said, major manufacturer. “I was this chopper girl and had to be laced into this black biker The 5-foot-5-inch bombshell, whose enter- suit that felt like a straitjacket girdle. I was sitting in wardrobe PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY tainment portfolio includes cameos this year and started sketching. How are you going to ride a bike without in biker thrillers like Warner Bros.’ “Torque” comfortable lingerie?” and TNT’s “Evel Knievel,” said she hopes to She declined to disclose sales figures of her intimate expand her lingerie business, which is pro- line. According to industry estimates, first-year wholesale duced in-house under the J’aime by Jaime volume is estimated at more than $500,000. The line is sold Pressly name, into an apparel and acces- to several hundred specialty and department stores. sories franchise. Pressly said she is negotiating a lingerie pact with That idea appears to be the flavor of the several “public and private” innerwear companies, day in the world of celebrity products be- and anticipates closing a deal before Christmas. She cause of the impact of high-powered names in would not identify the companies, but in an e-mail the intimate apparel arena, such as JLo to prospective licensors in June, the list of candi- Lingerie by Jennifer Lopez at The Warnaco dates included Sara Lee Corp., Kellwood Co., Group and Pamela Anderson Intimates at Tommy Hilfiger Corp., Bonjour Corp., Mecca Vandale Industries. And some believe that’s USA, NAP Inc. and Pegasus Investors. just the icing on the cake, with other enter- In the meantime, Pressly hasn’t wasted any tainment divas like Christina Aguilera and time broadening the scope of her ambitious Anna Nicole Smith shopping around for inti- fashion plans. Her company, J’aime mate deals. Productions Inc., has signed a licensing agree- In another celebrity-lingerie related devel- ment with Manhattan-based fine jewelry opment, “American Idol” judge and singer Jaime Pressly wears one maker Avianne & Co. to produce a collection of Paula Abdul has been commissioned by Sara of her loungewear looks upscale watches bearing the J’aime Avianne Lee Corp. to introduce the first tag-free bra col- and an oversized logoed name. The line will be introduced at major lection by Barely There on Sept. 8, the opening diamond necklace given to department and specialty stores for holiday day of Fashion Week here at Bryant Park. her by Avianne. Right: Pressly’s gift-giving, and will retail from $1,200 to $22,000 for dia- Pressly first launched her eponymous line cozy hooded cotton knit robe. mond-encrusted, “bling-inspired” watches, said Gabriel of lingerie and sleepwear in August 2003 at a Nektalov, an owner of Avianne. First-year wholesale party and fashion show for 2,500 guests at The Palms in Las Vegas. It was volume is projected between $4 million and $5 mil- featured as part of a formal fashion show in October 2003 during L.A. lion, said Nektalov, noting distribution will be ex- Fashion Week. Wholesale prices start at $10 for underwear and go to panded to 10,000 fine jewelry stores the second year. $100 for sleepgowns. After the first year, he expects wholesale volume As to why Pressly started out with lingerie and not ready-to-wear, she told will increase to $6 million to $10 million. He added the budget for a first-year marketing and advertising cam- paign, which will feature Pressly’s image in national print and out- door ads, will be close to $1 million. Pressly said she already has ideas for a multimillion-dollar ad campaign for her first lingerie licensee. However, she said she will most likely not be featured in her lingerie ads. “I don’t have a prob- lem doing a tasteful shot in lingerie as long as it doesn’t show too much skin,’’ she said. “But I don’t need to do the lingerie ads, either.” Assessing the fashion-celebrity union, Pressly, who has also gar- nered fame as a burlesque dancer in The Pussycat Dolls, a neo- cabaret girly revue in Hollywood that has featured celebrities such as Christina Applegate, Gwen Stefani and Alicia Silverstone, said breaking into the fashion business is “just as sleazy as the entertain- ment business.” “I grew up in the real Dawson’s Creek in Kinston, N.C., and have been on my own since I was 15. When I was a kid I wanted to go to FIT. But in the [entertainment] business I’m in, I’m around fashion all of the time and I absorb it,” Pressly said. “We’re very close to li- censing everything — lingerie, accessories, rtw and children’s wear. But that whole negotiating thing is such a bitch. The whole garment industry is very tricky and quite sleazy.” Regarding her latest acting project, Pressly said she is about to finish an independent film, “Venus in Vegas,” with Molly Sims and Danny DeVito. “I’m Tara, this girl in Vegas. She’s someone you’re not sure what she does. She dates men for the money, sugar daddies, but she’s not a hooker. People ask her how do you get all that bling, because they never see her go to work,” said Pressly, showing off an oversized lo- Belle Strapless Sheer Delights Aphrodite goed diamond necklace given to her by Avianne the morning the deal was consummated last Tuesday. GODD ESS

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EVEDEN INC. WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 13 WWW.WWD.COM Accessories Report Vuitton Denied Injunction Against Dooney & Bourke

By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — Score one for Dooney & Bourke, at least for now. Emulating certain design features doesn’t constitute trademark infringe- ment when it involves different trademarks or logos, according to a Manhattan federal district court judge who issued a rul- ing denying a request for a preliminary injunction by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton against Dooney & Bourke. The controversy cen- tered on LVMH’s famed Murakami designs, fea- turing the LVMH Toile monogram trademarks on multicolored patterns and styles for handbags and accessories. The ruling affects only LVMH’s request for a preliminary injunc- tion and has no effect on the law- suit filed by LVMH, which still has to be tried on its merits. “This ruling is upsetting. I spent considerable time with Takashi Murakami creating the Monogram Bailey Banks & Biddle’s Houston flagship (above) is the first to feature a seating area (inset). Multicolore for Louis Vuitton. To allow some- one to simply copy and profit from our creativity is frustrating and can dis- courage this kind of innovation Bailey Banks Bids Up in others,” said Marc Jacobs, artistic director By Holly Haber have duplication. We’re careful about who we partner for Louis Vuitton. with and how we allocate our space so we can make In the Dooney lawsuit, DALLAS — A prototype flagship in Houston cou- this co-branding statement the right way.” LVMH charged that the pled with an ad campaign launched last November “Bailey’s sales have improved this year, and it’s company had “knocked anchor a strategy to recast Bailey Banks & Biddle’s been one of the best-performing divisions at Zale’s,” off ” its Murakami designs image from a venerable bridal jeweler to a store observed William Armstrong, senior analyst with using similarly colored for all reasons. C.L King & Associates, a brokerage firm in Albany, overlapping monogram TURNER DAVID DOONEY BAG PHOTO BY At 7,700 square feet, the new store at the Houston N.Y. “They have more differentiated product in the initials on both white and Louis Vuitton’s Murakami bag, top; Galleria is nearly double the size of the average stores and have benefited from the overall trend black backgrounds. But Dooney & Bourke’s “It” bag, center; Bailey’s and carries a larger breadth of fashion styles that seems to be favoring luxury.” Dooney also used its own Burlington Coat Factory’s New York bag. in colored gems, as well as an expanded home and Zale’s sales rose 4.2 percent to $2.3 billion for the trademarked initials. gift area. Its softer, more residential decor features a fiscal year ended July 31, and comparable-store sales Judge Shira Scheindlin wrote in her decision, “This emulation seating area with cushioned armchairs and a coffee gained 3.9 percent. Fourth-quarter and fiscal-year of the certain features of the Louis Vuitton bags, however, does not table that displays semiprecious jewelry and Daum earnings will be announced Tuesday. The company reflect Dooney & Bourke’s intention to deceive customers into crystal ornaments under its glass top. announced in July its intention to buy up to $50 concluding that the product derives from Louis Vuitton.” “We want to take Bailey’s, with its 172- million of Zale common stock on the open The judge went on to note, “Louis Vuitton created a new look year history of great service, quality market, its eighth consecutive year of and now seeks to preclude others from following its lead. If Louis and value, and update it and pres- repurchasing stock. Vuitton succeeds, then it will have used the law to achieve an ent it to the target customer, who is With its neutral palette of cher- unwarranted anticompetitive result.” 35 to 45 years old,” explained ry wood, fawn suede and brushed She pointedly noted that LVMH had been unable to present Charles Fieramosca, president nickel, the Houston Galleria “any evidence” that the Dooney bag created confusion among of Bailey Banks & Biddle. “She store is what Fieramosca deems consumers. She also reasoned that granting LVMH a monopoly has changed over the years, and a “10th-generation” leap over a over all multicolored repeating monograms set against a black we need to tell her that we are smaller 3,000-square-foot proto- or white background would contravene one of the objectives of the store for her.” type unveiled last year at Las trademark law, which is “not to harm competition.” That’s why Bailey’s changed Vegas’ Fashion Show Mall. “We always felt that the claims by Vuitton lacked merit. The its motto from “World Renowned “The Houston store has state- bags are not the same. None of the elements on the LVMH bags Jewelers Since 1832” to “Where of-the-art fiber optics lighting, are on the Dooney & Bourke bags,” said Thomas J. McAndrew, Treasures Live” in a widespread ad lower-profile display cases and a attorney for Dooney. campaign in upscale fashion and softer palette so it would be all about “We disagree strongly with the ruling on our preliminary lifestyle magazines. Fieramosca is test- the jewelry,” he explained. “What we’re injunction motion. Moreover, we find it puzzling that the court ing billboards as well. trying to create here is a very high-touch reached this conclusion while at the same time noting the obvi- Bailey’s is the guild division of Zale Corp. in environment. ous similarities between our distinctive trademark and our Irving, Tex., a Dallas suburb. Spanning 31 states “The growth expectation is quite high for both competitor’s, and that ‘it could reasonably be inferred that and Puerto Rico, Bailey’s 109 stores are mostly of these stores,” Fieramosca asserted, though he Dooney & Bourke intentionally copied’ our world-renowned located in malls in the mid-Atlantic and Southeast declined to be specific. trademark and ‘intended to “ride on the coattails” of Louis and on the West Coast, plus Texas. He’s considering opening a similar unit next Vuitton,’” a spokeswoman for LVMH said. She added that When Fieramosca joined Bailey’s in April 2001, spring at King of Prussia Mall outside LVMH “will immediately appeal” the ruling. the chain’s only designer jewelry was a smattering of Philadelphia, where Bailey’s originated in 1832 as The latest ruling isn’t the first that LVMH has lost. In May, David Yurman. Fieramosca’s first move was to bring Bailey & Kitchen. a Manhattan federal district court denied a preliminary in color with Laura Gibson’s faceted semiprecious Bailey’s stores average 4,000 square feet and injunction request by LVMH against Burlington Coat beaded styles. Instantly successful, it was rolled out roughly $3 million in annual sales, he said. Houston Factory. That lawsuit sought to bar Burlington from selling a dramatically to all stores. Today, leading designer got the first big unit because it’s one of Bailey’s best line of beaded handbags featuring an “NY” monogram. resources include Yurman and Gibson as well as markets, with a total of five stores. LVMH is also appealing the ruling in the Burlington case. John Hardy and Roberto Coin. “Where we have the opportunity to take a larger The Second Circuit Court of Appeals has issued a stay of the “As important as bridal is to us, so is fashion, space in an established trading area that has the dissolution of the injunction, preventing Burlington from because today’s modern woman has a need for day- potential to justify it, then we certainly will do it,” selling the beaded bags until a final decision is rendered on into-evening jewelry,” Fieramosca noted. “It’s Fieramosca said. “We’re placing an emphasis on dis- the appeal. refreshing because it is luxury elegance. What we try tinctive merchandise and service, and doing it in a —With contributions from Ross Tucker and Emily Holt to do is develop our product mix carefully so we don’t warm and fuzzy, hug-your-customer kind of way.” 14 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW P/E (00’S) LAST CHANGE WWDCOMPOSITE STOCK INDEX VS. S&P 500 RETAILERS 39.46 23.07Abercrombie Abercrombie & &Fitch Fitch 13.0 66204 29.21 -1.27 33.98 16.20Aeropostale Aeropostale 27.2 40914 33.75 1.85 34.79 14.44American American Eagle Eagle 2 24.4 57513 34.40 0.29 31.43 20.47Ann Ann Taylor Taylor 13.9 42398 25.05 -0.28 24.33 14.48Bebe Bebe 21.7 5030 18.83 -0.07 5.97 0.97Bluefly Bluefly - 6158 2.17 0.41 S&P 500 17.95 5.94Bon-Ton Bon-Ton 11.9 2533 13.00 0.09 22.50 17.42Burlington Burlington Coat Coat 12.2 2191 19.47 -0.03 23.63 11.31Cache Cache 14.8 11932 13.31 1.69 25.50 18.65Cato Cato 13.4 2936 21.14 -0.36 22.24 9.18Charlotte Charlotte Russe Russe 17.7 31247 14.87 -2.06 9.19 5.09Charming Charming Shoppes Shoppes 11.9 22097 7.07 0.05 47.60 29.00Chico’s Chico’s FAS FAS 31.3 62042 42.51 -1.21 32.85 16.77Children’s Children’s Place Place 19.3 17298 20.52 0.58 44.14 29.47CVS CVS 17.6 53347 40.67 0.66 27.01 17.58Deb Deb Shops Shops 21.7 126 23.00 -0.79 24.98 13.80Dillard’s Dillard’s 26.8 68149 20.20 -0.71 WWD COMPOSITE STOCK INDEX 23.40 16.91Dollar Dollar General General 20.0 102780 19.42 0.67 18.72 12.74Dress Dress Barn Barn 49.6 1816 16.31 -0.38 94.13 50.43eBay eBay 87.3 439964 85.91 4.54 44.13 25.09Family Family Dollar Dollar 17.0 54608 26.63 -0.26 55.06 41.00Federated Federated 11.1 83018 45.00 0.40 27.59 15.80Foot Foot Locker Locker 14.8 42173 22.90 0.95 25.72 16.99Gap Gap 15.5 315740 19.29 -1.33 14.80 7.52Goody’s Goody’s 14.7 7593 7.67 -0.84 6/4 6/18 7/2 7/9 7/23 8/6 8/27 6.48 2.53Gottschalks Gottschalks 13.9 1712 4.80 0.66 19.58 7.20Guess Guess 31.9 4602 15.76 -0.64 5.25 0.00Harold’s Harold’s Stores Stores - 75 2.53 0.03 32.30 13.85Hot Hot Topic Topic 15.6 24835 15.38 -0.86 41.50 20.12J.C. J.C. Penney Penney 21.8 117275 39.35 -0.32 84.50 22.41Kmart Kmart - 73727 77.20 0.65 WWDSTOCK INDEX STALLS 65.44 39.59Kohl’s Kohl’s 25.8 122433 49.25 1.15 21.65 14.82Limited Limited Brands Brands 13.5 93236 20.20 0.21 NEW YORK — The WWD Stock second-quarter profits shot up 36.48 23.70May May Dept. Dept. Stores Stores 17.1 83024 25.01 -0.72 Index failed to sustain its rally 52.9 percent to $10.2 million 37.68 16.91Mothers Mothers Work Work 8.5 483 18.06 -0.09 59.70 39.88Neiman Neiman Marcus Marcus 13.5 4757 54.28 1.40 into a third consecutive week, on a 10.1 percent sales 46.30 24.52Nordstrom Nordstrom 15.9 91587 37.55 0.73 stalling at 1,073.77, or just increase, but investors were 25.78 17.25Pacific Pacific Sunwear Sunwear 16.5 52339 19.98 0.33 0.04 percent below last week’s looking to the future. The 46.56 31.71Regis Regis 17.1 17097 41.05 0.54 close of 1,074.17. company’s shares dropped 5.8 9.70 2.45Retail Retail Ventures Ventures 34.0 1390 7.28 -0.02 32.86 21.20Ross Ross Stores Stores 15.2 82096 21.25 -1.16 In the broader market, the percent for the week to $36.10 17.92 11.21Saks Saks 17.5 100536 12.14 -0.02 S&P 500 advanced 0.9 percent from $43.72 after Kellwood 56.06 31.21Sears Sears 3.9 95684 39.78 1.35 to 1,107.77 from 1,098.35. guided third-quarter earnings 17.46 12.14ShopKo ShopKo 12.9 14048 17.08 0.33 42.01 25.31Stage Stage Stores Stores 10.6 7706 32.71 0.51 Lowered guidance from a and sales well below Wall 18.96 5.09Stein Stein Mart Mart 34.7 10864 17.46 -0.12 couple of retail and wholesale Street’s forecast. Kellwood said 12.15 6.25Syms Syms - 127 9.85 0.14 heavyweights cancelled out lukewarm demand for apparel 39.82 26.00Ta Talbotslbots 14.4 17891 28.00 0.45 strong share performance by and delays in new marketing 47.40 36.19Tar Targetget 21.0 159627 44.94 1.13 26.82 18.71TJX TJX Cos. 15.3 100992 21.12 -0.18 other members of the WWD programs were partly to blame. 31.62 11.08Urban Urban Outfitters Outfitters 34.2 41282 30.90 1.20 Index, while the S&P 500 Meanwhile, Nordstrom Inc.’s 37.82 30.18Wa Walgreenslgreens 28.7 95149 36.64 -0.36 responded to an easing of oil stock was pulling in the other 61.31 50.50Wal-Mart Wal-Mart 24.3 344645 53.56 -1.09 12.50 0.69Wet Wet Sea Seal - 578772 1.21 0.36 prices to around $43 a barrel direction, improving 2 percent to 10.15 1.95Wilsons Wilsons Leather Leather - 18710 5.86 0.02 from almost $50 a week ago. $37.55 from $36.82 a week ago. 31.30 22.05Zale Zale 13.9 10251 27.22 0.49 But in the retail sector, Wal- The company’s announcement VENDORS Mart Stores Inc.’s stock weighed last week of a $300 million share 52.30 37.35Alberto Alberto Culver Culver 30.6 7013 48.16 0.24 46.65 30.67A Avonvon 14.6 61970 44.75 1.20 down the WWD Index with a 2 repurchase program appeared to 27.41 19.80Benetton Benetton 29.3 167 22.03 -0.12 percent drop to $53.56 from have the intended effect of 25.70 18.68Cherokee Cherokee 13.9 703 23.82 -0.17 $54.65 a week ago after the renewing Wall Street’s faith in the 47.45 26.63Coach Coach 29.1 74268 42.07 1.02 59.39 49.22Columbia Columbia Sprtswr Sprtswr 17.1 8193 54.65 0.17 retailer lowered its August same- company’s financial position. 34.60 22.48Del Del Labs Labs 16.9 4907 33.23 -0.95 store sales forecast. The world’s Tugging along with Nordstrom 23.94 15.90Elizabeth Elizabeth Arden Arden - 6873 21.00 -0.84 largest company said comps will was Barneys New York Inc., which 49.34 33.00Estée Estée Lauder Lauder 28.9 45344 44.02 1.27 29.44 15.87Fossil Fossil 17.7 16618 28.75 -0.35 now likely be flat to 2 percent looks to be in an enviable 12.00 6.32G-III G-III 7.7 157 6.99 0.15 instead of the previous outlook position. The company, which is 38.90 30.25IFF IFF 17.1 13604 38.48 -0.03 of a 2 to 4 percent gain. on the sales block, saw its shares 33.36 8.96Inter Inter Parfums Parfums 13.7 2646 12.05 -0.29 Wal-Mart partly blamed the add 2.5 percent to $20.60 from 40.00 29.30Jones Jones Apparel Apparel 14.4 43760 35.52 -1.71 45.10 32.26Kellwood Kellwood 13.0 30536 36.02 -2.31 impact of Hurricane Charley, $20.10 a week ago after the 37.39 26.11Kenneth Kenneth Cole Cole 17.0 2415 29.20 -0.85 which hit the Southeast states Chico’s stellar second quarter couldn’t company said it swung back to 38.90 32.09Liz Liz Claiborne Claiborne 14.0 30987 37.45 -0.07 in mid-August, causing the second-quarter profitability. 6.90 2.67Mossimo Mossimo 13.3 774 2.95 -0.02 prevent a drop in its stock. 17.97 10.08Movado Movado 14.8 1554 14.05 -0.13 company to temporarily close 75 Chico’s FAS Inc. also had a 78.56 55.07Nike Nike 21.2 41324 75.95 1.69 area stores. strong second quarter. Indeed, profits and sales grew 2.65 1.03Novel Novel Denim Denim - 152 1.26 0.09 Some analysts, however, said the cooler comps by double digits, but Wall Street’s darling found that 47.50 28.65Oxford Oxford 16.7 5576 42.34 1.58 may reflect moderating consumer spending habits investors are fickle: They traded down the company’s 29.95 20.41Perry Perry Ellis Ellis 11.6 5228 21.94 -0.01 20.10 14.10Phillips-Van Phillips-Van Heusen Heusen - 9227 20.08 0.60 going into the second half of the year, and a shift in shares 2.8 percent to $42.51 from $43.72 last 37.57 25.94Polo Polo Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 20.0 18634 36.55 -0.40 back-to-school spending, with hip, electronic gadgets week after Chico’s beat the consensus estimate by 25.16 14.70Quiksilver Quiksilver 18.6 12775 22.58 0.64 threatening to take market share from apparel. only a penny. 42.95 31.25Reebok Reebok 13.1 20240 34.42 0.45 3.93 2.03Revlon Revlon - 62057 2.65 0.13 As for the wholesale side, giant Kellwood Co. said —Dan Burrows 19.69 15.43Russell Russell 13.4 3137 18.02 -0.36 4.76 1.12Tarr Tarrantant - 10290 1.25 -0.19 18.25 11.68To Tommymmy Hilfiger Hilfiger 11.4 13159 13.70 -0.56 5.90 0.90Tr Tropicalopical Sprtswr Sprtswr - 4703 1.29 0.04 50.47 38.19VF VF Corp. Corp. 12.7 12913 49.02 -1.03 21.98 12.94Wa Warnacornaco - 14002 20.28 0.45 Belk Reports Net Up 67.4% in Qtr. Weekly % Changes NEW YORK — Belk Inc. reported vigorous profits “Effective execution of spring merchandis- WWDStock Market Index gains on strong sales in the second quarter. ing initiatives enabled Belk to take advantage (ending August 27) In the three months ended July 31, the of the upswing in consumer demand and real- Charlotte, N.C.-based department store operator ize outstanding comp-store sales gains and registered net income of $14.9 million, 67.4 per- gross margin results for the period,” said Tim Leading Gainers Close Change Belk, chairman and chief executive, in a state- Wet Seal 1.21 42.35 Men’s and women’s ment. “Expense management also contributed Bluefly 2.17 23.30 to our positive results.” Composite: Retailers: Vendors: 1073.77 1042.46 1248.20 Gottschalks 4.80 15.94 sportswear were identified Selling, general and administrative expenses Cache 13.31 14.54 dropped to 26.9 percent of sales from 27.5 percent in the prior-year period, despite rising by 6.7 per- Novel Denim 1.26 7.69 as top-performing cent to $144.2 million. merchandising areas. In the first half of the fiscal year, net income -0.41 -2.40 13.28 Leading Losers Close Change increased 67.8 percent, to $38.6 million from $23 Tarrant 1.25 -13.19 cent above the year-ago mark of $8.9 million. million, as sales rose 9.2 percent to $1.09 billion. Charlotte Russe 14.87 -12.17 Sales ramped up 9 percent to $536.4 million Comparable-store sales were up 5.3 percent. Goody’s 7.67 -9.87 from $492.1 million, while same-store sales Belk, which operates 225 stores in 14 Gap 19.29 -6.45 moved ahead 4.9 percent. Southeastern states, is the largest privately held Men’s and women’s sportswear were identi- department store company in the U.S. It disclos- Index base of 1000 is keyed to Kellwood 36.02 -6.03 closing prices of Dec. 31, 2002. fied as top-performing merchandising areas, as es its earnings because of public debt. was private label merchandise in general. — Arnold J. Karr WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 15 WWW.WWD.COM Victoria’s High-End Secret: Chantal Thomass

By Karyn Monget Widow with adjustable garters and $228 for a lace-up mesh bodysuit. NEW YORK — Victoria’s Secret is em- Regarding Victoria’s Secret’s view of barking on a new strategy with high-end Thomass, Anthony Hebron, director of French designer brand Chantal Thomass. communications for Victoria’s Secret and The $3.81 billion lingerie retailer its parent, The Limited Inc., said: “She’s began testing Chantal Thomass for hitting the big time. This is a good exam- Victoria’s Secret lingerie in 2002 at select ple of how Victoria’s Secret is using inno- units, and now plans to expand the saucy vation that not only comes from within, brand of highly embellished corsets, but also comes from outside as well. This bustiers, bras, panties and legwear from [Chantal Thomass] is [serving] that cus- 10 to 100 doors in September, said design- tomer who likes European design and er Chantal Thomass in a phone interview also wants the best in design and fabrics.” from her atelier in Paris. Bestsellers by Thomass include styles “My Parisienne collection for Vic- that feature lace corsetry and Guipure toria’s Secret has been selling extremely lace, and lined and push-up bras, he said. well at their top stores, including Herald A spokeswoman for the Sara Lee Square in New York and Washington,” Corp.-owned Chantal Thomass brand de- said Thomass. “Now, we’ll be shipping scribed the Chantal Thomass-Victoria’s fresh merchandise, styles and colors Secret partnership as a “very attractive every two months because of the demand. combination.” “It’s very funny that I am doing this for “They [Victoria’s Secret] want to have Victoria’s Secret because I’ve known them designer names to upgrade their image a long time, ever since I worked on acces- and have a different layer of offerings for sories, nightwear and robes for the other consumers,” she said. Victoria’s Secret fashion shows,” contin- In addition, Lucky Brand sleepwear ued Thomass. “I just love the store. For and underwear is being tested in the French people, Victoria’s Secret is very Victoria’s Secret catalogue and Web site strong because we have nothing like that for the first time, said Hebron. A select in France. I’m sure if they opened a number of styles by Lucky Brand for Victoria’s Secret store in France, people Victoria’s Secret include retro sleep would love it.” camis, retailing for $20, V-neck sleep T- The victoriassecret.com Web site shirts for $28 and knit pajama bottoms began selling Thomass’ lingerie in mid- for $30. Thongs are three pairs for $24. August, and the exclusive collection also Hebron acknowledged another up- is featured in a four-page spread in the scale European brand is being sold at current Victoria’s Secret catalogue for Victoria’s Secret stores — Vannina fall. Retail prices average $68 for a cross- Vesperini. However, for the time being, dyed balconette bra, $128 for an embroi- it’s “just at select stores.” He would not dered baby doll, $168 for a lace-up Merry Some saucy looks from the Chantal Thomass for Victoria’s Secret collection in the VS catalogue. elaborate. “the fox is back”

THE RETRO FOX TM

TM

by appointment only 1411 Broadway 29th Floor New York, New York 10018 tel: 212.221.8787 fax:212. 221.8717 www:TheRetroFox.com 16 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Tommy Turns to TV Tommy Hilfiger Corp.’s Stock 2004 By Sara James tion from his efforts to rebuild 500 by 9.7 percent year-to-date. his business, which has seen According to SEC filings, NEW YORK — As if the pres- better days. Over the last three Hilfiger’s stake in the company sure on Tommy Hilfiger to turn quarters, Hilfiger earnings have has remained unchanged since Share Price around his company wasn’t al- seesawed from profit to loss, last September’s proxy state- ready enough, his decision to while top-line results have been ment, in which it was disclosed become a TV personality has inconsistent. For the most re- that the designer owns 3,968,548 just ratcheted it up a notch. shares, or 4.4 percent of the Observers said Hilfiger is tak- Tommy firm’s outstanding stock. ing a huge risk with his decision Hilfiger Clearly Hilfiger doesn’t need to go on TV in the 13-episode mid- the money a TV gig will provide, season offering from CBS called although Trump only earned “The Cut,” which at first glance $50,000 an episode in “The doing traditional media.” show, compelling reality TV looks to be a hybrid of Bravo’s Apprentice’s” first season. As Scott Bedbury, founder of the doesn’t necessarily equate to a yet-to-air “Project Runway” and honorary chairman of Tommy brand development consultancy positive opinion of its stars. NBC’s “The Apprentice.” Sixteen Hilfiger Corp., the designer was Brandstream, agreed: “Frankly, And as Buckingham points contestants will compete for the the highest-compensated execu- there’s such a distrust of adver- out, if what’s in stores isn’t up to opportunity to design a collection tive at a U.S. publicly listed ap- tising these days. Back in the snuff, even the best-produced under the Tommy Hilfiger label, parel company in 2003. His $18.3 Fifties and Sixties, consumers show won’t translate into sales with Hilfiger presiding over the million salary — he took no believed anything companies for the Hilfiger label. “If the contest — and presumably utter- bonus — was enough to grab the said. Smart companies today are merchandise isn’t right, it defi- ing some variation of “You’re number-one spot on the list. Still, looking at content development.” nitely won’t work in favor of the fired!” to usher out the might- his compensation fell 10.8 per- To Gobé’s mind, entertainment brand,” said Buckingham. “He’s have-beens. During each episode, cent from 2002, due to lower U.S. and celebrity are cornerstones of going to get his moment in the guests will also serve on a Trump- sales in fiscal 2003. the Hilfiger identity, which is why sun, and it has to be the right style advisory board, critiquing cent quarter, ended June 30, the Some observers, like brand he likes seeing the designer make product at the right time.” contestants and offering up in- company reported a net loss of consultant Marc Gobé, view the a concerted effort to reestablish Several retail consultants dustry advice. $7.6 million versus last year’s reality TV venture as a poten- ties to the music industry and said Hilfiger’s reality show likely And though “The Apprentice” earnings of $17 million. Sales tially workable strategy for re- ground the brand back in the hip- won’t hurt the public’s image of was a ratings boon for NBC and fell 10.5 percent to $328.6 mil- connecting the brand with con- hop lifestyle. Hilfiger recently the Hilfiger brand, but the certainly took Donald Trump lion from $367.2 million. sumers. “I think Tommy needs tapped Beyoncé Knowles as the show’s success in boosting mer- from New York celebrity to Since the beginning of the cal- to regain some of the charisma face of the company’s new fra- chandise sales is not guaranteed. heartland household name, it endar year, the company’s stock he used to have,” said Gobé, grance, True Star, and in the “They’re certainly going to get didn’t stop his hotel and casino has fallen 10 percent, or $1.46, to president and chief executive September issue of In Style, more notoriety,” said Craig business from going belly-up. $13.20 from $14.66. Moreover, officer of Desgrippes Gobé and Hilfiger and Beyoncé appear in a Johnson, president of Customer Financial analysts said Hilfiger’s shares have substantial- author of “Emotional Branding” chummy six-page story set at the Growth Partners, a retail consult- Hilfiger’s shot at television star- ly underperformed the broader and “Citizen Brand.” “I don’t designer’s home in Mustique. ant firm. “The way I look at it, they dom could be a major distrac- market, lagging behind the S&P think you can do that by just “He walked away from that will get noticed, and they will get connection to celebrity for a a certain buzz the same way that while,” said Gobé, “first by losing Donald [Trump] has gotten it.” the connection with the music But Johnson is slightly skep- world, and second by creating tical, calling the reality show a communication and advertising “potential two-edged sword.” 1466 BROADWAY that looked like any other brand. “Is the buzz going to translate That was a mistake. You can’t be into any kind of top-line growth Ralph Lauren number two. You in the line?” he asked. “Just the AT 6 TIMES SQUARE have to be Tommy Hilfiger num- same way that The Donald’s got- ber one.” ten a lot of buzz, he [Hilfiger] How Tommy’s own rising real- has had a few financial difficul- ity star will affect the brand is de- ties at the same time, too.” batable. And, of course, produc- Richard Keim, managing part- tion values will be a major factor. ner at Kensington Management As Bedbury said, “It’s all in the Group, agreed with Johnson that IF YOU'VE GOT THE execution. If it feels forced, I the show will create a new source think consumers will reject it.” of attention. “The company cer- Brad Adgate, senior vice tainly can use a little help there,” president and corporate re- said Keim, noting that awareness search director of Horizon of the brand reached saturation Media, said, “It has to be inter- levels roughly two years ago when LOOK, esting, but if he can build him- “you couldn’t walk down the self as a celebrity, I think that street without seeing a sign say- THIS IS THE can only help the brand.” ing ‘Tommy Hilfiger.’” “Every once in a while you Kim Picciola, an analyst at get a reality show where people Morningstar, noted the company go, ‘Ewww, that’s not working,’” could see an increase in sales if said Jane Buckingham, presi- the merchandise showcased on dent of Youth Intelligence. “The the reality program reflects cur- PLACE. people who end up doing well in rent trends. “If it’s hot and fol- these types of shows, they’re not lowing fashion trends, then I SHOWROOMS FROM apologetic. Even if you hate think there’s a good chance them, you kind of like them. But they’ll see a pop in sales.” he’s certainly dynamic enough Additionally, she said, the 600 -5,000 rsf to build a huge brand. And he show could add a certain credi- runs in a world that people find bility to the brand as a whole. By Corner of Broadway & 42nd Street tremendously interesting.” showcasing Hilfiger’s talent with “The Cut,” which comes to what seems to be his personal, in New York City's rejuvenated CBS from Lions Gate Television hands-on approach, customers Times Square and Pilgrim Films and TV, will who have not looked at buying be Hilfiger’s second brush with the merchandise prior to the 7 day, 24 hour access reality TV. Daughter Ally was the show might find it appealing. Immedate availability star of MTV’s watchable but But Picciola noted that, at cringe-inducing “Rich Girls,” least in the case of Trump’s Prestigious tenant roster includes which drew 1.1 million viewers “The Apprentice,” “Trump real- in the 18-to-34 market for its ly benefited more than maybe L.E.I., a division of Jones New York, debut. In the New York Observer his business did per se.” Paris Blues, Quiksilver, Self Esteem, last December, Simon Doonan As a result, Tommy TV runs called the show “the mesmeriz- the risk of helping Hilfiger’s per- Ben Sherman, XOXO ing MTV reality sensation star- sona more than offering a boost to ring luggage heiress Jaime his company’s financial picture. For further information, please call Gleicher and Ally Hilfiger as the — With contributions from Richard Selig, 212-201-0260 two spoilt and endearingly re- Meredith Derby, [email protected] tarded Manhattan brats they ob- Jeff Bercovici and viously are.” Which just goes to Dan Burrows WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 17

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BUYER Communication with buyers on sales, LI based unique dressy dress mega order maintenance, and account retailer is seeking BUYER. Req min 3 maintenance. Candidate must be years retail buying experience. Must organized, team player, able to multi live in LI or Queens. Great opportunity. task and be proficient in Excel and Excellent salary and benefits. Call Marty Word. Please fax resume attn: or Helga at 631-420-0890 or fax resume Christine 212-768-3588 to 631-752-7785. DESIGN ARTIST Accounts Payable Graphic Artist F/T: Min 3yrs working Upscale sweater importer seeks exp’d in the licensing industry, experience person to grow with us. Reply fully. in designing T-shirts/ apparel/ accesso- FAX (212) 575-1781, Mr. Levine ries /&bedding preferred. We are a growing home textiles company located on Long Island and have many licenses Admin. Asst. such as NFL, NASCAR, Nickelodeon, Disney, Warner Bros. Illustrator/ Sales Dept. Freehand/Photoshop exp essential. Nationally known jewelry manufacturer Email resume: [email protected] seeks an organized, energetic individual to perform administrative functions for our Sales Dept. Excellent communica- Design Assistant tion, organization and follow-up skills Major apparel company is looking for amust. Computer proficiency required. an assistant to provide administrative You will support our sales team in support for a design team. Responsi- their day-to-day operations. Clerical bilities include revising and printing support, answering phones, coordinat- cads, boards and assisting designers Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. ing mailings, preparing spreadsheets with researching trims. Must know No Lot Too Big or Too Small. and customer service, are some of your Illustrator and be very organized. Call CLOTHES-OUT: day-to-day responsibilities. Fax resume 212-239-2766 (937) 898-2975 We offer a good starting salary and ben- efits package. Qualified candidates DESIGN For Space in Garment Center should fax or mail your resume to: ASST. DESIGNER DEPT. AA/Human Resources Entry level Asst. Designer position. Helmsley-Spear, Inc. FAX: (718) 349-4424 212-880-0414 Cool, contemporary men’s co. seeks cool, organized, high-energy, multi- For Space in Garment Center tasking indiv. Computer skills and flat JACMEL Jewelry sketching. Fax resume: 212-840-5537. Helmsley-Spear, Inc. CLOSE OUTS 30-00 47th Ave, LIC, NY 11101 212-880-0414 We Buy Men’s, Equal Opportunity Employer M/F Design Women’s & Children’s Showroom / Office / Retail ADMIN IMMED Belt Designer We find you space-best deal-no fee All Quantities DESIGNER-JEANS $70K Major Accessories firm seeks a talented Sublet 525 7th/ready WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY PRODUCTION $60K Belt and Small Leather Goods Designer. Garment Center Real Estate We are nice people to deal with TECH DESIGN-BOYS $45K Responsibilities will include design & Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 DESIGNER-CW $35K development of the company’s better P.S. Large Piece Good Deals ADMIN ASST $30’S lines & private label business. Industry Also HBA and General Merchandise. [email protected] experience required. Please E-mail all Showrooms & Lofts Call Rocky 800-762-5488 responses to: [email protected] Designer Assoc $65-$75K. Current exp. in pri- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS APPAREL STAFFING, LTD Designer Assistant vate label woven women’s casual or career Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Designer Junior Sweater Exp. Req. Bridge suit and separate house seeks sporstwear. Adapt better to bridge line to mod- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Designer Assoc. 1Yr + Sweater Exp. Design Director good organizer with strong sketching erate private label line. Strong knowledge of Designer Assoc. Newborn & Inf. Girl & Boys Pvt Label Company seeks a personable, ability responsible for first sample. woven fabrics. Preferable to hang w/ Liz Production Coordin. Import Knit Exp. creative and experienced individual to Minimum 5 years exp. Great benefits! Claiborne, Jones, Kellwood, Ann Taylor, Production Coordin. Bilingual Sportswear design womens woven apparel ranging Fax resume to Maddie: 212-869-5393 Talbots, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy Tech. Designer Sweater Bkgrd. Req. from casual to career. Must work closely Tech Designer C.N.S. Knits and Sweater Exp. with sales, product development and Other Listings @www.apparelstaffing.com or merchandising. Fabric knowledge fax resumes to: 212-302-1161 required. Please fax resume to 1411 B’way - 1 Year Sublease Asst. Operations Manager Shelley at 212-382-2421 Low Floor; 530 sq. ft. w/special bonus High volume accessory warehouse in Designer $100-$125K. Current exp in updated 1 Month Free Rent if can Attention Importers! Long Island seeks detailed oriented missy tops. Must hang w/ DCC, At Last, Style Occupy Immediately. Call: 212-719-3220 Looking for AL-CHEAPO CMTS, FOBS? person with strong computer skills. &Co,. Esxp in dealing w/ travelling to India + Can offer quality production, big quantity Proficiency in allocations, order entry, Europe.Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy out of Bangladesh. Pants, shirts, dresses, shipping, inventory control and EDI blouses, skirts. All our factories are Walmart knowledge. Must be a team player and Designer $65-85K. Current exp. in womens rated. Please email your inquiries for be able to work under pressure. underwear/ panties. Must hang w/ Berlin, the cheapest prices & deliveries. Please fax resume to: (516) 501-0416 Delta, Ariela, Innersecrets, etc. [email protected], [email protected] or Email: [email protected] Design exp on PC. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Designer $90-$100K. Current exp. in jr. PATTERN/SAMPLES Asst Tech Designer full-fashion sweaters. Trendy. Must hang Secaucus co. seeks Asst Tech Designer w/ Unique, Airport, One Step Up, Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast full-fashion sweaters; cut&sew knits. work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Coolwear, Weavers, etc. Photoshop/ Illus- Must have complete knwldg sweaters, trator. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy yarns, stitches. Must be exp’d in PATTERNS, SAMPLES, specing, fittings, patterns, grading, Designer $90-$110K. Current exp. in JR. Velour + Fleece sewing, sketching. Strong vendor cut & sewn updated fashion basics, primar- Rib + Jersey Lycra PRODUCTIONS comn & comptr skills: Word, Excel, ily active tops. MAC Illustrator/ Drake Fabrics All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Micrografx, PDM a must! 5 yrs exp. Phjotoshop. Import co, Broadway at 39th 718-389-8902 Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Fax Dir Tech Design: 201-866-0387 St.Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy 18 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

Designer - Freelance PAUL&SHARK Shipping/Receiving Clerk Domestic bottoms manufacturer is OPENING IN Responsible for all incoming and out- ROCAWEAR looking for a cool designer to freelance. going shipments. Knowledge of UPS & Hosiery/Accessories Please fax resume: 212-921-7817 SO. FLORIDA 12/03 Fedex a plus. Small business looking Account Executive Has openings for a Sales Manager and for a reliable, organized, and hardwork- DESIGNER Complete Sales Staff, Salary + Com- ing individual. Must be able to handle Leading Hosiery/Accessory Co. fast paced environment. Multi-tasking Jr. Sportswear Co., seeks strong indi- mission, Great Benefits Package. has an immediate opening for Please fax resume to 212-452-9861 a must. E-mail resumes to: vidual. Candidate must have at least 3 [email protected] an established Account Exec. years exp. in Jr. Market. Must be profi- Attn: Sal Cretella cient on Adobe, Photoshop & Illustra tor. with min. 3 yr exp. Candidate Excellent growth opportunity. TECH DESIGNER must have established relation- Please fax resume 212-869-2781. PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Sleepwear manufacturer seeks F/T ship with Dept Stores and Spec Attn: Cathy COORDINATOR Technical Designer with min. 3 yrs. Chains. Must be aggressive, Major apparel company seeks individual exp. Must have strong patternmaking Designer $$ open. Current excp. in with minimum two years experience. skills. Knowledge of garment construc- enthusiastic and detail oriented. newborn/ infant required. Knits & wovens. Responsibilities include approving lab tion and graded specs. Computer skills Must hang w/ Little Me, Ralph Lauren, etc. Send resume & cover letter dips, fabric and accessories. Individual amust. Excel, Word, Daywear experi- to HR fax 212-564-6135 or Mdtwn Lg. Co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy will review design worksheets and ence a plus. Must be able to follow coordinate information between design through from design sketch from e-mail [email protected] DESIGNERS department and production depart- sampleroom to final production with (1) Designer for Girls sizes 4-6X & 7-14. ment. Must have good organizational, overseas factories. Fax resume: Denim exp A+. communication and computer skills. 212-685-4341 Att: Keith (2) Designer for Girls sizes 4-6X & Fabric construction knowledge a plus. Tech Designer Womens woven tops $80K Boys 4-7 & 7-20. Fax resume (212)239-2766 Tech Disgner JR. tops, bottoms $80K MAGIC JEANS Fax Patti: 973-812-1731 Tech disgner Full-fashion sweaters $ 75K Tech disgner Kids Wear $BOE Sales Rep Designer to $100K. Current exp in mens Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency denim bottoms. Must have visited denim Production Assistant Required by fast growing Large childrenswear company is look- mills + washing facilities. Must hang w/Po- TECHNICAL DESIGNER - Prep. tech. denim mfr. Must have existing lo, DKNY, Guess, Paper, True Religion, Diesel, ing for a production assistant with 1-2 pkgs. for dsgns. Req’d: 2 yrs. Exp. in Lucky, Mavi, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy years experience. Responsibilities job, & exp. w/ Excel, Web PDM, accounts w/ girls/junior/large size include entering styles in the style Igrafix, Adobe Illustrator & buyers. Private label orders Designer to $135K. Current exp. in master, maintaining the style master, Photoshop. Resumes: Salant Corp. private label moderate woven women’s creating and following up with PO’s. 1114 Ave. of Amer. 36th Fl., NY, NY welcomed. All territories open. sportswear. Must hang w/ Kazu, Bonnie Individual must have excellent 10036. ATTN: Lystra Nottingham Excellent terms. and Norma, Yellowriver, J. Suzette, Ban- computer skills. ner Ind., FOB, Hi Fashion, CMT, Signe, Fax resume 212-239-2766 Please see us at WWDMAGIC burbank, etc. Exp on PC Illustrator/ TEXTILE DESIGNER/ Photoshop. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy CAD ARTIST SHOW Junior Booth #11934 Production Assistant Sleepwear/Daywear Co. looking for or E-mail: [email protected] Designer to $90K. Current exp. in better to Major apparel company seeks individual CAD artist/textile designer w/ strong bridge contemporary cut & sewn tops. Fashion with 1-2 years production experience. fashion background. Work closely w/ vision similar to Theory. Strong knowledge of Responsibilities include ordering, our merch & design staff, integrating Chaos Men’s Wear USA cut & sewn fabrics devel. Import co. Call 973- sending, and tracking price tickets. concepts & ideas to create & develop Chaos Men’s Wear is looking for quali- 564-9236 Jaral Agcy Individual must have excellent follow- prints, color-ways, presentation boards, fied independent sales professionals to up skills and be detail oriented. etc. Working knowledge of NedGraphics/ represent our European contemporary Designer Wanted Fax resume 212-239-2766 Fashion Studio software a plus. collection. Must posses strong con- Sweater Designer for Jr. Co w/ exp in Please fax resume to: 212-684-3295 tacts with majors and specialty stores. Import & Domestic & speaks Chinese. Production Coordinator For further information contact Chaos Email resume: [email protected] or Leading Import Manufacturer seeking Wash Technician $Open @(305) 651-5216 or fax your resume to fax to 212-398-5461 experienced Production Coordinator 5 Yrs. + denim wash/finish experience (305) 651-5431. for New York Office. Well established, Allen*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 E-mail- [email protected] 20 year old company offering a compet- [email protected] www.chaosmenswear.com DESIGNER itive salary, 401K great benefits. Magic Booth # DE3444 Please fax resume and salary WOMEN’S OUTERWEAR requirements to 646.304.8489 Well established fashion co with nation- Wharehouse Mgr Assist $40-$45K. Current exp al distribution seeks designer with 5+ in apparel or accessory co. Supervise 30. Pick Fast paced trend fashion Jewelry Co. years women’s outerwear/sportswear Product Manager to $100K and pack. Chargebacks. Able to dealw/ custom- seeks energetic & motivated Sales Person. experience. Needs to be familiar with Missy Mod/Better Spts, Prod./fllw-up ers & vendors. Computer skills a must. Central Must have experience in the contemporary outerwear fabrics and have strong abili- Allen*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 NJ loc. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy market w/strong relationships in Dept. ty to capture existing trends for moder- [email protected] & Specialty stores. Team player attitude ate to better market for branded wom- w/excellent communication skills and en’s line. Please e-mail resume in confi- PUBLIC RELATIONS presentation ability necessary. Great sal- dence to: [email protected] ary, commission & benefits with excellent Account Executive & growth potential. Fax / E-mail resumes to: FREELANCE Entry Level Asst. 732-345-9991 / [email protected] Sweater imptr. seeking talented indiv. Public relations agency is currently to design updated MISSY novelty seeking an account executive, special- T-shirt program. Please fax resume to: izing in men’s & women’s fashion, with (212) 947-6138 2-3 years experience, and an entry level fashion assistant. Candidates should be highly motivated with excel- GRAPHIC ARTIST lent communications skills. Competi- Major Accessories Co. seeks tive salaries & benefits are offered. experienced Graphic Artist/Designer. Email resumes to [email protected] Particular attn. to Jr. trends. Proficient or fax to 212-213-4790 in MAC and PC Systems. CAD and freehand illustration. Quick pace Juniors/Girls/Ladies w/deadline pressures. rebecca taylor Fax resume w/salary history to: Production Manager/Director - strong Headwear & Cold Weather Sales 212-244-5897-Attn: V/P analytical skills, technical construction HYP Hats seeks an honest, aggressive, knowledge, overseas exp., 5 yrs min. well connected Salesperson to sell custom exp., will manage a team of 10. & licensed headwear/cold weather acces- Graphic Artist Please email resumes to sories for girls, juniors, and ladies to mass Major apparel company is looking for a [email protected] or market retailers, particularly Walmart, graphic artist w/ experience in prints and fax (212) 302-3482. NO CALLS K-Mart and Target. Must have at least drawing bodies. Individual must pos- 5 years sales experience, and at least 3 sess strong graphic skills and must be years experience in dealing with these proficient with Illustrator and Photoshop. VP Marketing accounts. Merchandising ability, strong Fax resume 212-239-2766 Retail Managers We are a contemporary women’s (Reports to President) communication skills, and ability to boutique looking for management Montblanc North America build & maintain relationships a must. experience with a contemporary Can work from our New York office or IZOD Layette Designer fashion background. Candidate must Murray Hill, NJ from a remote location. Compensation & Hanging layette designer with 4 or more possess ability to sell, manage staff Opportunity for a strong benefits package will be competitive, and years experience in the better layette and possess creative skills. Located in leader to execute, adapt the working environment is incredible. business. Great opportunity, great brand Westchester and Fairfield counties. Email resume to: [email protected] and great benefits. Please send resumes There are no evening hours. Full and further develop the by email: [email protected] benefits. Performance based Marketing Strategy in a multi Lectra, a world leader of high tech incentives and competitive salary. solutions and related services to the sales channel environment. major industrial users of textiles, leather GREAT STUFF Substantial marketing experi- Jewelry Designer Fax resume: 914-723-0626 and other soft materials, is seeking Great opportunity is available for a cre- ence in luxury goods is key. candidates for the following positions: ative individual to join our design team. We develop and manufacturer Retail Planner $$ open. Min 2 yrs exp as PDM & Color Mgmt lines of better sterling silver jewelry. planner required. Either retail or whole- 2 Account Execs. Candidate should have BFA in Jewelry sale co background OK. For midtown appa- Montblanc Corporate Gift Solution Consultant Design or 3 + yrs. jewelry design expe- rel co. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy Based in our New York Office, the rience. Excellent sketching & techni- Tri-State (NY/NJ) and South- Solution Consultant will provide support cal drawing skills required. Fax re- east (GA/FLA). Responsibilities to the sales team with customer qualifi- sume / salary history (718) 609-2726 or RETAIL SALES include managing a territory, cation, preliminary project preparation email to [email protected] and presentation, implementation plan ANALYST developing Fortune accounts/ scoping and quantification. You must Apparel company seeks individual relationships and achieving have 5 yrs relevant exp in sales, pre- MANAGER - Cutting Dept. 5 years with knowledge of apparel business sales plan. Previous exp. in sales or consulting and a 4-yr degree. management experience. Knowledge and high volume accounts. Excellent 50% Travel. Email resumes to of stretch fabrics & Gerber systems. communication and computer skills. B2B, pharmaceutical and [email protected]. Reference job South Jersey. E-mail resume & salary Walmart/RetailLink exp. a must. financial institutions is key. SC081904 in the subject line. requireements to: [email protected] Please fax resume to: 212-239-2766 5-10 years sales experience. Business Manager OFFICE MANAGER Please email resumes to: Based in our New York Office, the Sales Assistant / Business Manager will sell projects Global Wise Development Ltd. [email protected] within a list of large apparel and retail Seventh avenue women’s apparel Customer Service Rep EOE accounts and technical textile accounts company is seeking an outgoing Established High End Packaging Firm using various combinations of Lectra’s computer literate individual to help seeks indiv experienced with retail very broad product and services portfolio. run the office and sales dept. Will coor- trade. Looking for enthusiastic indiv You must have 5-7 yrs relevant exp dinate between HK and NY office, familiar with retail boutiques, dept. and a 4-yr degree. 50% Travel. Email work with brokers/customs and be able stores, & corporate accts. Must possess resumes to [email protected]. Refer- to help assist sales with customers. good follow-up & communication skills. NATIONAL ence job BM081904 in the subject line. Please send resume and salary Customer service leading to account requirement in confidence to: executive. College grad preferred. SALES MANGER [email protected] or E-mail resumes to: SMALL LEATHER GOODS Business Developer Fax to 509-757-7814 [email protected] Based in our New York Office, the COMPANY Business Developer will initiate new Successful importer and sales activities in selected apparel and PATTERNMAKER SALES ASSISTANT manufacturer of men’s and retail strategic accounts through the 3-6 years experience. From first pattern Fast paced NYC ladies’ clothing co. ladies small leather goods use of inside sales techniques. You through production. Must have exp. seeks a sales assistant to support sales must have 2-4 yrs relevant exp and a 4- in knits. Must be able to work from exec. Responsibilities include filing, and accessories seeks year degree. Email resumes to designer’s sketch. Bilingual Chinese / sample requests, sending out national sales manager [email protected]. Reference job English. Please fax resume to: packages, and creating spreadsheets. with minimum of 5 years BDNY081904 in the subject line. 917-510-9448 Individual must be detail oriented, able to multi task and be proficient in experience in the industry. PRIVATE LABEL Patternmaker $60-$70K. Current exp. Excel and Word. Manage sales personnel Established $50 Million importer with in womens tops & bottoms, wovens & Please fax resume attn: throughout the US. Excel- factories in India, Pakistan, Bangla- Designer knits. Prouction patterns mostly. Christine at 212-768-3588 lent opportunity. NY based. desh and Middle East. Seeking an ASST. SWEATER DESIGNER DESIGNER Gerber exp. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy experienced salesperson to increase Contemporary sportswear company Current exp. in contemporary sportwear Top salary, benefits plus our Pvt Label sales with department seeks design assistant with min 3 yrs collection department store level SHIPPING MGR bonus. All replies in strict stores and other importers. We manu- import sweater experience. Must have required. Min 4 yrs exp, sketching Fast paced domestic & international confidence. facture knits and wovens for both men strong technical knowledge of fully skills & designing a complete collection, PAUL&SHARK mfr seeks highly motivated shipping and women. Great opportunity for the fashioned sweaters. Excellent computer conduct fittings, and full knowledge of Immediate part time Sales position for mgr. Computer literate & EDI capabili- Email resume to right individual. skills and flat sketching a must. domestic and European fabric market. a qualified sales person. ties a must. Immed. opening available. [email protected] Please send resumes to: Fax resume to Lynn 212-302-5763. Fax resume to Lynn 212-302-5763 Please fax 212-452-9861 Attn: Sal Cretella Fax resume to 212-947-1246 [email protected] WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 19 WWW.WWD.COM

America women’s outerwear in a license with Utex Fashion Group. Bunin, who had his own ready-to-wear collection for men Mossimo CFO Resigns Fashion Scoops and women until folding a couple of years ago, will design a new men’s outerwear collection for the Perry Ellis brands in a license with Aberdeen Sportswear. The line is launching for spring 2005, according to Rachel Barnett, who joined PEI as Over Disputed Résumé president of licensing a month ago.

LOS ANGELES — Mali Shrinivas, who has served as FASHION ACE: Serena Williams is looking to hit a few fashion chief financial officer of Mossimo Inc. for the past six shows while she is in New York for the U.S. Open this week months, has resigned after his credentials were ques- and next. “I want to go to the Calvin Klein show,” said the tioned in a published report. PHOTO BY FRANK CONNOR tennis ace, who was at Niketown last Friday to show off the “He’s had a fairly short tenure, so it’s a bit of a sur- new bold denim and mesh looks by Nike that she will play in prise, but there’s been a cloud of speculation regard- at the Open. “I love fashion week and I definitely plan to stop ing his background,” said Rommel Dionisio, senior eq- by a few shows. I think Nike has to get a fashion show.” uity analyst at Roth Capital Partners LLC in Newport Serena, a budding fashion designer who often sports bold Beach, Calif. looks on the court, said she was actively involved in designing Santa Monica-based Mossimo, which designs cloth- the new looks, which also include a leather jacket, a black T- ing in the U.S. exclusively for Target Corp., is search- shirt with Swarovski crystals and black knee-length boots ing for a successor, according to a press release. The Reese Witherspoon wears Chanel Fine Jewelry in “Vanity Fair.” made of performance materials. Although Williams pulled out company did not explain why Shrinivas departed. SILVER SCREEN: It isn’t only the costumes that are eye-catching in of the Olympics citing injuries, she said she feels good now Shrinivas, 43, was hired as cfo on Feb. 6 after Focus Features’ movie “Vanity Fair,” which opens this week. On and is ready for the Open, which gets under way today. “In Manny Marrero stepped down. A Mossimo company top of all her 19th-century finery, Reese Witherspoon’s character this collection I am comfortable press release said Shrinivas worked for a now-defunct Becky Sharp sparkles in Chanel Fine Jewelry throughout the film. and I feel like a rock star.” Swedish children’s clothing company, Dynarc AB, with Pieces picked for the movie, which was directed by Mira Nair, Meantime, Belgian tennis more than 600 stores worldwide and revenue of $650 include the “1920” lariat necklace of 330 diamonds, a player Kim Clijsters won’t be million. The Wall Street Journal reported in May that Burmese ruby and a South Sea pearl; the “L’air” necklace competing in the U.S. Open this Dynarc is a telecommunications networking company featuring 14 oval rubies and 3,387 diamonds, and the “La year, but that hasn’t stopped her that filed for bankruptcy in 2001. Pluie” necklace and earrings of cascading diamonds and pearls. from hobnobbing around town. Calls to Mossimo founder Mossimo Giannulli and This isn’t the first time Chanel has made its way into movies. Clijsters popped into president Edwin Lewis were not returned. Shrinivas In 1931, Sam Goldwyn picked Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel to dress Bloomingdale’s SoHo last could not be reached for comment. studio actresses. The designer traveled to Hollywood for the Thursday night to help launch the Mossimo has run into soft demand at retailing. The assignment, outfitting the likes of Gloria Swanson, who wore a new retro-inspired Fila U.S. Open company reported that income for the second quarter Chanel suit for the film “Tonight or Never.” Collection. “I am a little sad I ended June 30 fell by 45.4 percent to $1 million, or 6 won’t be playing this time, but I cents a share, from $1.8 million, or 12 cents, in the PERRY LANDS ANOTHER NAME: Perry Ellis International is will be watching carefully,” said comparable quarter. Revenues were down 9.5 percent continuing its campaign to build a team of notable designers, Clijsters, who was last year’s to $6.2 million from $6.9 million. recruiting those who have had their own labels in the past but were runner-up to fellow Belgian From February 2003 to October 2003, Shrinivas was not able to get by on their own. The company signed Jason Bunin to Justine Henin-Hardenne. Clijsters a senior manager with Deloitte Consulting, now part of come on board on Friday in addition to creative director Jerry Kaye; Kim Clijsters in Fila pulled out of the Open in late Deloitte & Touche in Los Angeles, which the account- Patrick Robinson, who is in talks to move from its women’s wear at Bloomingdale’s in July citing a wrist injury, which ing company confirmed. licensee to the corporate office, and William Calvert, who is SoHo last Thursday. also forced her to miss the

— Nola Sarkisian-Miller designing its new Perry Ellis, Perry Ellis Portfolio and Perry Ellis STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY French Open and Wimbledon.

Showroom Sales SALESPERSON Fast paced, contemporary, multi-line show- ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE BEN-AMUN ACCESSORIES room seeks aggressive and energetic sales- Well known NY fashion jewelry & ac- person. Must have 1-3 yrs exp in the con- An exciting entrepreneurial opportunity now exists in New York. Lee Jeans cessory co seeks team player in order temporary market with strong relation- to grow our business. Must be detail ships w/ department & speciality stores. Sal. + is looking for a salesperson with a minimum of 3-5 years sales exp. to oriented with strong follow-up skills. commission. Fax resumes to 212-382-1021 Peace Rocs™ LICENSING DIRECTOR launch their Lee Premium denim line in the US. Responsibilities include Good salary & benefits including travel. Fax resume & cover letter to Showroom Salesperson Retro/Urban up-scale line of fashion "Gold Medal" Winner developing & managing the sales of Women’s and Men’s Lee Premium 212-944-9625 or E-mail to: shirts /trucker/baseball caps in better 917-575-7491 or 718-543-3099 [email protected] Direct mfr from China seeking experi- fabrics and trims for mens/boys/ladies lines within key department & specialty stores: participating in trade shows, enced Jr. woven bottoms salesperson and girls sizes seeking account execu- to run NY showroom. Excellent salary, tives with strong specialty stores base conducting in-store seminars. Travel is a must. Excellent analytical & incentives & health ins. Please fax in NY/MA/PA/FL/IL/CO/TX/NV and CA. Sales Rep resume, account list and references to Please send all resumes to: communication skills needed. Established relationships with retailers JUNIORS KNIT TOPS/MEN’S T’S (626) 333-6391 Attn: Larry. Box#M 1076 needed. BA/BS required. Excellent benefits and compensation. Salary Domestic manufacturer is looking for c/o Fairchild Publications an aggressive, motivated Sales Reps commensurate with experience. Please fax resume & salary history to: Cecile & Jeanne 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl with following in the screen print, New York, NY 10001 212-830-8223, Attn: VP of Sales embroidery and resort retail markets. SALES ASSOCIATES In-stock program, private label and A European leader in fashion jewelry, custom cut capabilities. Established is seeking exceptional, highly motivated territories. VA, NC MD, DE, DC, PA, Sales Associates for Full or Part Time W. NY, W. VA, IL, MO, TN, MS, MI & floor positions at its exclusive Manhattan New England. Fax resume: 954-627-2509 boutiques. Must have a minimum of three years sales experience in fashion retail, high-end preferred and have excellent customer communication skills. SALES REP Email: [email protected] Canadian Mfr./Importer of ladies’ medium price career sportswear is seeking an Seasoned Sales Executive with experience selling est’d. Sales Representative. Please Fax Exciting Jewelry beauty products to Mass Market customers wanted or E-mail your credentials to: Experience 514-383-3767 / [email protected] Borealis, a unique Nolita Jewelry for Senior Sales position focused on growing our Gallery specializing in one of a kind designer fragrance business in key mass ac- Sales Rep - L.A. pieces seeks an exp’d sales pro for Fast growing co seeks an aggressive, either PT or FT positions. Room for counts. This position is based in Miami. exp’d sales rep w/ est’daccts & rel w/ growth. Salary + commission. major retailers & specialty chain stores Fax resume to: 917-237-0154 Qualified candidates may submit resume to: to handle our girls/jr’s knit tops div. Great oppty & excellent bene for the LA PERLA [email protected] or fax (305) 818-8024. right person. Exp’d people need only Seeks Full-Time Sales Associates for apply (min 5 yrs). Fax res: 323-846-1936. its new Boutique on Madison Ave. Min- DFW/EOE/AA imum of 4 yrs. strong retail experience. Sales Reps Needed Fax Resume to Sarah @ (212) 459-3413 Anew junior denim label is in search of highly motivated sales reps with existing Retail - Asst Manager nationwide junior accounts, to sell fash- Upscale stationery and gifts store in ion jeans for immediate delivery. Please NYC seeks candidate to assist in daily Fax or E-mail all resumes to: operation of the store, managing 2-3 Sales Manager 212-684-3288 / [email protected] employees. This is an entry level retail The BRYANT PARK HOTEL (catering opportunity. Some retail exp. required. to Fashion Clients) seeks an experienced SALES! SALES! SALES! Great benefits! Please E-mail: Sales Manager to focus on the Fashion [email protected] Industry. The ideal candidate must have Established, rapidly growing SALES DIRECTOR manufacturer seeking: at least 3-5 years experience working Retail Sales UK designer fashion company seeks a with high-end Fashion Market clients. Sales Director with extensive exp. in Hotel experience a plus. Excellent presen- *Energetic team player with some F/T and P/T the women’s ready to wear market. tation & communication skills required. sales and production experience Candidate must have strong relation- Must be high energy and creative. We Experienced sales associates wanted ships with specialty stores and dept offer competitive benefits and salary. *Chain, department, specialty store for a better women’s boutique located stores. Candidate should be a highly Fax resumes to: 212-642-2113 and natinoal brand contacts a plus in Westchester County. Competitive motivated team player with strong salary and benefits for full time. communication and management skills. THE BRYANT PARK HOTEL Salary will commensurate Advancement to management if you Please fax resume to: 646-602-2892 or 40 West 40th Street, N.Y., NY 10018 experience/contacts. Email: demonstrate the necessary skills. E-mail: [email protected] www.bryantparkhotel.com [email protected] Fax Resume to: 914-723-0626 Brunch with Dad. A pink suit. Perfection.

TM

A KELLWOOD COMPANY PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: LIA BISHOP/ELITE; HAIR BY DENNIS AND MATEO, BOTH FOR WARREN TRICOMI MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP BY ROANNA AND MATEO, BOTH FOR WARREN TRICOMI MANAGEMENT; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE WWD WWDMAGIC MAGIC bonny be and cottonskirt. Objects’ cottonvoileshirt category, Necessary from thecontemporary girly silhouettes.Here, calls forprettyprintsand Spring Isn’t shelovely? lle Section II 2 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

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WWDMAGIC INSIDE managing editor, special reports Dianne M. Pogoda 40 28 40 associate editors, special sections Libby Estell Jennifer Hirshlag sportswear/ready-to-wear market editor Antonia Sardone west coast market editor, fashion Melissa Magsaysay art director Andrew Flynn associate art directors Antonio Aguiar Kim Svitic designers Kara Hasson Mandy Lee Amy LoMacchio Danilo Matz copy chief Steven Hillman deputy copy chief Peter Sadera copy editors Deborah Boylan, Doug Hennemeyer, Lisa Kelly, Maureen Morrison president,wwdmediaworldwide Edward J. Menicheschi 4 scene: From Botox to burlesque, cuisine to culture, check out the latest Las senior vp,group publisher Vegas has to offer. Ralph Erardy 8 show business: The Sourcing Zone aims to link up supply chain fashion manager partners; Microsoft teams with MAGIC to promote its retail software. Gus Floris 10 vendor spotlight: Celebrity launches are taking center stage associate publisher,sportswear at WWDMAGIC. Vanessa Mahlab 14 retail spotlight: Specialty-store owners are trolling the aisles in associate publisher,accessories search of runway trends. Alix Michel 16 accessories: Vendors in this ever-more-crowded market are mapping associate publisher, their own paths to success. innerwear/legwear/textile 20 junior/young contemporary: Despite pressure from mass retailers, Joel Fertel designers are staying focused on young women’s fashion needs. associate publisher,technology 24 fashion: Spring is all about geek-chic, a preppy-meets-nerdy look. Tia Potter 26 contemporary: New and novel looks spur sales in this increasingly senior account manager,west coast competitive category. Deborah Dembo 28 in·dex: Hot contemporary lines look to build their brands without production manager sacrificing their independent ideals. Michele Leung 32 junior accessories: Vendors are working overtime to produce the novel looks teens love. production coordinator 36 the edge: Contemporary retailers are looking to the edge to spice up Leigh Roderick their merchandise mix. photographers 40 sportswear and dresses: Doubts about the economy aside, sportswear Thomas Iannaccone Donato Sardella and dress makers are looking to grow. 44 thegallery: Designers continue to debate consumer preferences for models Brandise/Q Models pieces or outfits. Kaitlyn Rightmeyer/Elite 46 outerwear: Coats of many colors are driving business in this increasingly Kate/Nous competitive market. Lia Bishop/Elite Veronica K/Elite 48 resort/swimwear: Americans are traveling again, and buying new wardrobes to take along. hair and makeup 52 casual lifestyle: Alexis Benveniste/Celestine The clothes may be relaxed, but the casual market is Dennis/Warren Tricomi Management serious business. Mateo/Warren Tricomi Management 56 calendar: A guide to everything going on inside the MAGIC Marketplace. Roanna/Warren Tricomi Management Arlene Silver/Celestine

Correction: Karyn Schneider is the apparel licensing director at United Media, which has partnered with JEM Sportswear's fashion assistants Awake division to produce a Vintage Peanuts line based on the classic comic strip by Charles M. Schulz. Schulz’s last name Taylor Price and Schneider’s first name were spelled incorrectly, and the relationship between United Media and JEM was mischaracter- Leigh Thornton ized in a story on page 27 of the WWDMAGIC preview supplement, published Aug. 16. Tracy Toole SHOWROOM 212 302 0798 WWDMAGIC BOOTH 13701 4 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

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WWDMAGIC SCENE desert delights A sampling of the newest diversions Las Vegas has to offer.

THE END OF THE LINE What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas. So if you’ve been dying to try Botox or collagen injections but were afraid someone might find out, here’s your chance. Skinklinic, the second location of the New York City medi-spa, offers a complete menu, including microdermabrasion (from $125), an alpha and beta peel (from $125), collagen replacement therapy (from $600) and Botox injections (from $400). All procedures are performed by a specially trained staff of registered nurses, nurse practitioners and physician assistants overseen by a medical director. Not sure if you’re brave enough to take the plunge? Go for a light glycolic treatment (from $125). This facial is said to smooth fine lines, stimulate collagen production and improve skin texture, and your post-peel glow is guaranteed to last through the end of your Vegas visit. Skinklinic, Mandalay Place, 3930 South Las Vegas Boulevard, 702-632-3300. Open Sunday through Thursday, 10 a.m.-11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m.-midnight. — J.L.

IN A FIX What do you get when you combine a slick space with a classic American menu and extra-long dining hours? Fix Restaurant & Bar, nightclub owner Andrew Sasson’s new dining hot spot at Bellagio Hotel & Casino. The 142-seat space designed by the Los Angeles- and Berlin-based design firm Graft Labs uses Costa Rican Padouk wood for the floors, tables, banquettes and undulating ceiling. There is nary a tablecloth in sight. “The premise was to bring a fun dining, as opposed to a fine dining, option to Bellagio,” said Oliver Wharton, restaurant director. “When I first met with Andrew, I said I didn’t want to do a restaurant with tablecloths and he said, ‘Neither do we.’” Executive chef Brian Massie’s accessible menu is chock-full of quick snacks like roasted tomato soup ($9) and yellowtail sashimi ($15), shareable plates like the Ultimate Shell (Maine lobster, tiger prawns, seasonal crab, market oysters and clams for $40 to $120) and main courses like roast chicken with smoked mash ($24). Service till 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday nights means you can get your fix into the wee hours. Fix, Bellagio Hotel & Casino, 3600 South Las Vegas Boulevard, 702-693-8400. Open Sunday through Thursday, 5 p.m.-midnight; Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m.–2 a.m.. — Jennifer Laing

SPECIAL DELIVERY In a city where pampering is the name of the game, shopping from your hotel room should come as no surprise. At the Hard Rock Hotel and Casino, lingerie can now be ordered via room service 24 hours a day from the casino’s Love Jones lingerie shop. If you’re too busy, or shy, to stop by the actual store, this lingerie shop has got your number. Store creator Suzi Joi Kiefer, a former lingerie model, makes sure to stock the shop with high-end lines from designers such as Cosabella, Dolce & Gabbana and Eberjey, providing “everything for the girly-girl and the crazy vixen.” The room service menu features nine choices, with prices that start at around $18 for fishnet stockings. And don’t think you can’t see what you’re paying for: The menu has a photo of each piece. A sample of items available includes a Kama Sutra Love Essentials Kit, complete with honey dust, oil and feather duster in a gift box ($35); four-inch, clear-heeled marabou slippers in red or black ($38); rabbit fur handcuffs in red or black ($40), and a two-piece marabou-trimmed baby-doll style nightie with matching G-string in red or black ($46). They don’t call it Sin City for nothing. Love Jones, The Hard Rock Hotel and Casino, 4455 Paradise Road, 702-693-5007. — Christine Galea

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WWDMAGIC SCENE desert delights

STRIP TEASE Inaugurated with a performance by Carmen Electra and inspired by the speakeasy style of 1920’s burlesque, Treasure Island’s Tangerine is the first indoor/outdoor nightclub on the strip. This venture, a partnership between Treasure Island and the powerhouses behind Coyote Ugly Bar & Dance Saloon at New York New York, and Bikinis Beach & Dance Club at the Rio, is decked out in shades of orange in keeping with the club’s name. But the real treat is the outdoor terrace. Open daily at 3:30 p.m., the 3,100 square feet patio overlooks Treasure Island’s Sirens’ Cove and offers great views of the Strip and the hotel’s famous pirate battle. During the day, sip a signature Tangerine mojito or Tangerine margarita on the patio while listening to a live steel drum band. At night, party to DJs spinning house, rock and dance indoors and out. As if that wasn’t enough to entertain, Tangerine is the first local club to bring a bit of old-school burlesque back to the Strip. Professional dancers perform in the lounge four times a night, while a live three-piece band plays along. Tangerine, Treasure Island, 3300 South Las Vegas Boulevard, 702-212-8140, tangerineclub.com. Patio hours: 3:30 p.m.-4 a.m. daily. Lounge hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 9 pm.-4 a.m. Burlesque shows: 10:45 p.m., midnight, 12:45 a.m. and 1:45 a.m. Cover charge: $20 for men, $10 for women; free for hotel guests. — C.G.

Tangerine’s outdoor patio.

“Flush”Flush by byPeter Peter Alexander, Alexander, 1994, digital inkjet on gampi.

BRIGHT LIGHTS, BIG CITY Kees van For proof that Las Vegas culture is PLEASURE SEEKING Dongen’s 1907 not an oxymoron, check out the Dongen’s 1907 Hedonism, it seems, can also be highbrow. Peter Alexander exhibit at the oil painting, “The Pursuit of Pleasure,” on view through January Godt-Cleary Gallery. Red Dancer. at the Guggenheim Hermitage Museum in The AVenice, Calif., native, Venetian Resort-Hotel-Casino, features works from Alexander first gained fame as a such artists as Chagall, Degas, Manet and Picasso. But member of the Light and Space don’t let the title fool you — there isn’t anything and Finish Fetish movements of naughty here. the 1960s, two minimalist art Images of leisure in Western art from the 16th trends that emphasized bright, century through the 20th century are broken out into light-filled objects and geometric four themes: “Music and Dance,” “Celebration and forms. But it wasn’t until Café Society,” “Gaming and Sport” and “Flirtation and Alexander switched gears in the Romance.” The 37 works represented include Rodin’s mid-Seventies that he discovered sculpture “Romeo and Juliet” and Rubens’ pastoral his true passion: interpreting “Landscape with Rainbow,” from the collections of the classic landscapes with a twist. Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation in New York, the One work might be created State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg and the entirely from pieces of velvet, Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna. another from glitter. On display at “The exhibit was designed with Las Vegas in mind,” Godt-Cleary are a collection of says Dan Shewman, spokesman for the Guggenheim sparkling grid-like L.A. cityscapes Hermitage Museum. “People come to Las Vegas to and images of severely cropped spend their leisure time in a variety of ways...similar to Las Vegas landmarks to test your those depicted in the four themes.” knowledge of Strip geography. The Guggenheim Hermitage Museum, The Venetian Godt-Cleary Gallery, Mandalay Resort-Hotel-Casino, 3355 South Las Vegas Boulevard, Place, 3930 South Las Vegas 702-414-2440, guggenheimlasvegas.org. Open daily, Boulevard, 702-632-9378. Open 9:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Admission: $15 for adults, $12 for Sunday through Thursday, seniors and Nevada residents, $7 for children 6-12 and 10 a.m.-11 p.m.; Friday and free for members and children under six. Saturday, 10 a.m.-midnight. — J.L. — C.G.

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WWDMAGIC SHOW BUSINESS microsoft’s magic act Software giant’s sponsorship deal is designed to sourcing zone dazzle smaller retailers. By Michelle Dalton Tyree

SOFTWARE GIANT MICROSOFT IS REACHING OUT TO THE MORE THAN 3,300 COMPANIES eases the way exhibiting at MAGIC, and is partnering with the trade show to help peddle its Microsoft Business Solutions Retail Management System software. Although Microsoft has dominated the word processing sector with popular New seminars and services are designed to help software packages like Microsoft Office, it has yet to become the go-to name link supply chain partners. among small and midsize retailers looking to set up point-of-sale systems. “It’s been a highly fragmented market and relatively underserved,” said Brendan O’Meara, general manager of retail management solutions at Microsoft. “It’s a category that we believe is just now about to boom, and MAGIC is one of the important industry associations where merchants attend, listen to, respect and look for recommendations on how to run their business.” After acquiring the product from Sales Management Systems in 2002, Microsoft has been updating, building out and rebranding the software. It has seen 60 percent growth in sales in the last year alone, with about 20,000 installations nationwide. Apparel retailers account for one-quarter of the business. Among current users are Madison Carlsbad Village, based in Carlsbad, Calif., selling handbags, luggage, jewelry and accessories; the sports shops for the Golden State Warriors, based in Oakland, Calif., and Action Performance Cos., based in Concord, N.C., a retailer of racing collectibles and apparel, including NASCAR merchandise. The category, which has previously been dominated by proprietary POS solu- tions such as electronic cash registers and PC-like cash registers, is now ripe for growth, said O’Meara. “What’s changed is that PC economics have made it more cost-effective for smaller retailers,” he said. According to O’Meara, retail software accounts for 10.8 percent of overall soft- ware spending in the U.S.; accounting software comes in second at about 8.5 percent. Microsoft data shows that small and medium-size retailers in the U.S. spent about $2.4 billion on pack- Sourcing experts Peter aged and custom software in 2003. M. McGrath and Julia Unlike accounting software, however, Hughes will speak at retailers aren’t able to pick up a version of the POS software at a big national the Sourcing Zone computer chain and be ready to ring on Aug. 31. on Aug. 31. up sales at their stores. The product, which will be available for sale and MAGIC ATTENDEES WILL BE ABLE TO NAVIGATE THE GLOBAL SUPPLY CHAIN A demonstrated at kiosks in the grand bit easier, thanks to two new initiatives in the show’s Sourcing Zone. lobby at MAGIC, is sold only through The Sourcing Hub, a 3,000-square-foot presentation by MAGIC, is designed to facili- Microsoft’s licensed partners and requires tate networking, communication and commerce between apparel buyers and producers. a fair amount of customization and The Sourcing Zone Summit, a series of daily seminars, aims to educate and communicate handholding — at least initially. The critical factors, trends and the latest advances affecting the industry’s global supply dynamics. price starts at $1,200 for the basic Peter M. McGrath, senior vice president and director of product development, trend software. However, the typical installa- and quality sourcing for J.C. Penney Co., is slated to deliver a keynote address Tuesday tion price with software, hardware and at 11:45 a.m. at the Las Vegas Convention Center, Room N254 on the second floor above setup included will run retailers an the North Hall. average of $5,000 to $6,000. More Microsoft will promote its point-of-sale After McGrath’s presentation, MAGIC organizers will host a news conference with customization and additional store software system at MAGIC. leaders from the American and European fashion, financial and sourcing industries, of- locations to service also drive up the cost. fering insight into the challenges and opportunities facing the fashion industry. Sourcing Mike Nicholson, vice president of Maryland-based POSitive Technology, one of experts include Julia Hughes, vice president of international trade and government rela- the partners for the product and among Microsoft’s largest providers of retailer tions for the U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles and Apparel; Emma Ormond, inter- solutions, said the software is ideal for retailers with one to 100 stores. national trade consultant for PricewaterhouseCoopers; Peter Craig, trade commissioner “[This program] is not for the Victoria’s Secrets of the world or larger chains,” he of the Embassy of Mauritius; Brenda Jacobs, an attorney representing clients before the said. “We’ve been able to take our expertise and bring it to small-to-midsize retailers.” Office of the U.S. Trade Representative, the U.S. Department of Commerce and other Although the product requires initial setup from one of Microsoft’s partners, agencies, and David Birnbaum, who is developing a program with the United Nations to once it’s up and running, sales assistants can learn to ring sales in about five min- teach fabric and trim sourcing to garment factories in developing countries. utes, according to Nicholson. The center of the Sourcing Hub features four information desks: “We make the machine meet the users’ needs,” said Nicholoson, whose com- ● The Global Sourcing Information Center allows attendees to learn about exhibitor pany helps set up cash registers for small mom-and-pop stores and big tourist profiles and seminar information and handles overall Sourcing Zone inquiries. attractions alike, as well as such high-volume sports franchises as NASCAR, which ● The Sourcing Executives Desk lets attendees schedule show floor tours and find have limited time to train seasonal employees. more exhibitor information. POSitive Technology will work with Microsoft in the Grand Lobby at MAGIC ● The Interpreter Service Desk provides translation services in Korean and throughout the show to promote the new software and will offer a special to retailers: Mandarin Chinese for retailers and exhibitors. $189 a month to get started, which includes all hardware, software, installation and ● The Fabric & Trend Information Desk offers information about fabric@MAGIC and training. There will also be a drawing to give away one complete retail package. arranges floor tours of the show. This is not the first time technology and apparel have intersected at MAGIC. The Sourcing Zone at MAGIC, located on the first level of the South Hall, represents Online auction site eBay will partner with the trade show for the fifth time, and will the apparel industry’s supply chain and its commerce. MAGIC created this show sector to have multiple kiosks and advertisements, as well as its own seminar series to pro- provide branded and private label apparel marketers the ability to source, research and mote its online store options for retailers. fulfill their product and production needs. It also provides an environment where contract “Some of the smaller companies are learning the importance of introducing manufacturers can present their production capabilities to this purchasing community. technology into their stores,” said a spokeswoman for MAGIC International. “Their More than 350 exhibitors, of which approximately 240 are new, from more than 35 aim is to ease retailers onto the technological superhighway.” countries are on hand, representing the chain of supply for the entire apparel industry. How “super” retailers want to go is up to them. Microsoft’s program can be The Sourcing Zone is the largest marketplace in the Western Hemisphere servicing the configured to operate on PC-based handhelds as a personal shopping tool, which production and supply sides of the apparel industry, according to MAGIC officials. sales assistants could use to check inventory as well as to ring up customers from Meanwhile, fabric@MAGIC brings together domestic and international suppliers of anywhere in the store. fabric, trim, leather, suede, fiber and new design technology. But the biggest advantage, said O’Meara, is really in harnessing customer infor- Now in its third season, fabric@MAGIC includes 109 exhibitors, 84 of them new, from mation to help personalize the shopping experience, an advantage more nimble, 13 countries, up from 63 exhibitors at last February’s edition. smaller retailers have over the mega-chains. Further bolstering fabric@MAGIC, the Fabric & Trend Information Desk at the “We’ve created it as a tool kit that enables [store owners] to leverage that Sourcing Hub is offering spring 2005 trend forecasts for $50, providing an accurate rep- strength,” O’Meara said. “They [can gather] preferences, purchase history and pro- resentation of upcoming trends. vide a higher level of service, whereas the larger national chains take a lot of time Mannequin displays on the fabric@MAGIC floor, as well as at key points throughout to roll out a new POS system.” the MAGIC Marketplace, highlight cutting-edge fabric and trims from the show’s And providing relevant industry resources to the smaller retailers is exactly what exhibitor base. the partnership is designed to do. “This is an important first event to be working Finally, the American Trend & Color Committee’s Spring-Summer 2005 Trend on together,” agreed O’Meara, who said he hopes to bring “awareness through a Seminar, sponsored by the International Fashion Fabric Exhibition, will be presented at trusted adviser.” all seminar venues at the show.

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WWDMAGIC VENDOR SPOTLIGHT the stars of the show Celebrity lines are making a scene at WWDMAGIC.

By Kristen Carr OK, so she’s not quite a celeb herself, but as the daughter of WHETHER PILOTED BY A BEVY OF BLONDES WITH THEIR OWN REALITY glam-o-rama romance author Jackie Collins and the niece of TV shows, a teen songstress or a male rapper who’s behind some very women- actress Joan Collins, Tiffany Lerman does have a certain friendly denim, celeb lines are threatening to steal the limelight at WWDMAGIC. amount of Hollywood cred. “[The show] is obviously a reflection of what’s going on in the marketplace, Lerman’s line of diaper and cosmetics bags, called Chester and there are just more celebrity lines out there than ever before,” said a MAGIC Handbags, will feature honeysuckle and sweetpea prints, as spokeswoman. “Companies have seen the success of celebrity-powered lines well as multicolored stripes and Fifties-inspired florals and in the streetwear market, so now people in other categories are launching graphics. Silhouettes range from a basic makeup bag at $11 them as well.” wholesale to a vinyl and nylon diaper bag that packs bottles, The spokeswoman said she’s confident that star-powered lines have a cosmetic bag and a changing pad, among other goodies, already proven to have staying power. “Sean John, Phat Farm, JLo…those into a compact 12-by-13-inch frame, at $62 wholesale. are all formidable powers in the apparel industry, and that’s showed “In terms of cosmetic bags, there was nothing between people that celeb lines aren’t just a fad. We haven’t reached the saturation really expensive French froufrou ones and those cheap point yet. People assumed we have, and we haven’t — we’ve just seen lines drugstore numbers,” said the Los Angeles-based Lerman, with a broader reach.” whose line is six years old but is only just now making it to Vendors using the show as a launchpad say WWDMAGIC has certain star WWDMAGIC. “We’re ready for a show now. I can fulfill qualities of its own. demand at a quicker pace and am more prepared.” “MAGIC serves as a great platform for exhibitors to showcase their brands. There are a number of key buyers, media and industry insiders and influencers on-site throughout the duration of the show,” said Randi Shinder, president and founder of Dessert Beauty, Nicky Hilton will Jessica Simpson’s cosmetics line, which bowed at A new line competing for the hearts and WWDMAGIC’s February edition. celebrate the launch wallets of Teen People readers is actress- Here’s a roundup of the celebrity lines — and in of her Chick by Nicky singer Mandy Moore’s T-shirt collection, some cases the celebs themselves — slated to be on the Hilton line with a Mblem. Wholesale priced from $26 to $32, it show floor. party at The Palms. features silhouettes from standard short- sleeved crewnecks to ribbed V-necks to a daring scoopneck, in colors like dusty With 2 Nicky Hilton, girl-around-town and, it must be noted, former Parsons and rose, wine, cucumber, berry and basic Love, Fashion Institute of Technology student, will introduce her Chick by Nicky primaries. Some of the Ts feature sprin- Hilton collection, featuring turquoise-stitched dyed denim, cherub-printed klings of Moore’s favorite song lyrics by Mandy minis and oxford shirts and various layering pieces, including mesh tanks, such artists as Cat Stevens, Carly Simon, Moore is chiffon hoodies and the odd chain-mail top. Janis Joplin and Marvin Gaye, some of designing The contemporary-leaning junior collection, co-produced with New York- whom Moore pays tribute to on her latest a T-shirt and Hong Kong-based licensing firm Ben Bin, wholesales from $25 to $150. album, “Coverage.” line called Nicky herself will host a party at Skin at The Palms Hotel & Casino tonight from Mblem is already sold at Canal Mblem. 9 p.m. to 2 a.m., perhaps with a certain even more notorious sibling in tow, and Jeans and Lounge in New York, is expected to appear at a 2 p.m. press conference today in N254 at the Las Kitson and Fred Segal in Los Vegas Convention Center. Angeles and Active Endeavors in Chicago. Parent company 2 Love enlists celebrities to design limited- edition T-shirts, with a percentage “She’s the dream buxom blond,” said Chris of sales going to the star’s charity of choice. Detert, marketing director for the Los For Mblem, 10 percent of proceeds are bene- Angeles-based Von Dutch Co. and the de fiting the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society, an facto spokesperson for reality starlet organization dedicated to funding cancer

Anna Nicole Smith, who is launching her research and education. INTL/WIREIMAGE LINDA MATLOW/PIX GEORGE PHOTO BY JUSTIN KAHN/WIREIMAGE; BOY AGE; HASTIE PHOTO BY first apparel line with Von Dutch. Called Tex-Sex — “a play on Tex-Mex” and a reference to Smith’s hometown of Mejada, Tex. — the line is strongly denim-based, with a focus on rhinestones Christa Hastie, a former and studs, fake fur, velvets and pink — “very much the castmate of “Survivor: Anna Nicole kinds of details you’d expect Anna Nicole to be Pearl Islands,” will Smith will be interested in,” Detert said. Expect skin-baring tanks tackle the wilds of Las on hand to and camisoles to match the denim. Vegas with her Christa promote her Smith herself will be on hand from 1 to 3 p.m. Hilda contemporary new Tex-Sex today, Tuesday and Wednesday, said Detert, and plans dress line. Hastie has lineline fromfrom for a party and a news conference were in the works been sewing all her as of press time. life, but her hobby came in particularly Von Dutch. handy when she whipped up outfits for herself and fellow survivors using a sewing machine and fabric won during one of the show’s challenges. Pamela Anderson will launch a junior-oriented version Now, several of Hastie’s ex-castmates of her signature contemporary line, the Pamela will repay the favor by modeling her looks Collection, which bowed at MAGIC in February. “We’ve at a party to be held at the Las Vegas Planet accomplished being in stores like Planet Blue, Lisa Hollywood, Wednesday from 8 to 11 p.m. Klein and Kitson, and now we’re ready for a different, The dresses are made mostly from more mass market,” said Anna Rudy, creative director crinkled silks and a triple-weave chiffon, for the Los Angeles-based Pamela Collection. with plenty of floral prints, pinks and The junior line, priced about a third less than the fuchsias. Silhouettes are often strapless or contemporary collection, will primarily target spaghetti-strapped, with low waists and department stores. “People assume that the line’s what Hastie called “feathers” — narrow going to be spandex with rhinestones all over it, but panels of fabric extending down the skirt. then they find it’s not at all what they expected,” Rudy “I love ‘Lord of the Rings’ and fantasy-type said. The junior line’s emphasis is on well-fitting, ForFormmerer things,” said Hastie. “The line is very flowy, low-cut denim in acid washes and knit tops that lend “Survivor”Survivor almost fairy-like, as though you’re walking themselves to layering, such as T-shirts, camis and Pamela Anderson is contestant through a forest.” hoodies in white and in complementary shades of launchinglaunching aa juniorjunior Christa Hastie The dresses wholesale between $50 and mango, pink, green and aqua. Anderson will also lineline underunder TheThe now designs $180, and Hastie is aiming for distribution launch the Pamela Anderson Intimates line of vintage- Pamela Collection dresses under in such stores as Nordstrom, Macy’s and inspired lingerie at MAGIC. as well as Pamela the label Neiman Marcus. Anderson Intimates. Christa Hilda. BAUMGARTNER PHOTO BY GREGG DEGUIRE/WIREIMAGE; NELLY PHOTO BY JOHN SHEARER/WIREIMAGE; JESSICA SIMPSON PHOTO BY THEO WARGO/WIREIM JOHN SHEARER/WIREIMAGE; JESSICA SIMPSON PHOTO BY PHOTO BY GREGG DEGUIRE/WIREIMAGE; NELLY PHOTO BY BAUMGARTNER

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WWDMAGIC VENDOR SPOTLIGHT the stars of the show

Bubbly chanteuse and reality TV star Another celebrity relative with a not-quite-brand-new line: Jessica Simpson will unveil her Taste Chiara Hardaway, niece of Stevie Wonder, will present her collection from Dessert Beauty. The Lula B. collection of mostly tie-dyed jersey-knit cotton T-shirts fragrance, body shimmer powder and in various silhouettes. Wholesale prices run from $18 for a lip gloss are based on her fave flavors: solid ribbed tank to $28 for a long-sleeved tie-dyed shirt. Tahitian vanilla, white chocolate, “I really wanted to put a fresh, modern spin on tie-dye,” coconut cream, apricot and honey. The said Hardaway. Spring looks include rhinestone-studded T- merchandise will be sold via shirts, a polo dress, a ruffled miniskirt and Seventies-style dessertbeauty.com, as well as through jogging shorts. The year-old Los Angeles-based line is sold in Sephora, Nordstrom, Frederick’s of specialty boutiques and department stores, including Tres Hollywood, Ulta, QVC and Holt Jolie in Los Angeles, Fred Segal in Santa Monica, Calif., and Renfrew. Henri Bendel in New York.

The other bad Boy in the bunch is George O’Dowd, better known as Boy George. He is launching three mostly unisex collections — B-Rude, Really Rude and Rude Core. The line is mainly T-shirts, some with graphics of Boy George in drag or masquerading as an evil clown, that are designed, silk-screened and hand-dyed by BG himself. Miniskirts, some spattered with paint and/or sequins, feature confrontational sayings like “You Should Have Said Christine Baumgartner will That A Long Time Ago” and “I Just Don’t Love You Anymore.” receive help promoting her The line’s antifashion underpinnings are summed up by a Cat Bags line from crimson wool miniskirt with a green appliqué that commands fiancé Kevin Costner. “Don’t F***ing Tell Me What To Wear.” Wholesale prices were not available at press time. Cat Bags, a collection of funky but functional The London-based line’s appearance in the edge at laptop computer cases from Christine MAGIC marks its U.S. launch, and Boy George, with Baumgartner, is a reverse play on the well-trodden notorious club kids Richie Rich and Annette Lapore along route from celebrity to handbag designer. Bag for the ride, will DJ in the edge Lounge Tuesday afternoon designer Baumgartner became a red carpet Jessica Simpson’s to promote the effort. regular after stepping out with husband-to-be Taste collection Kevin Costner. Now, her famous fiancé will be by for her Dessert her side when she launches her line of colorful beauty line will fake fur cases at WWDMAGIC. officially bow at WWDMAGIC.

Nelly’s Apple Bottoms line of curve-hugging denim is set to relaunch at MAGIC.

Chart-topping rapper Nelly will herald the return of Apple Bottoms, a denim collection that garnered great industry buzz for its superior fit for women with lush figures, but suffered from distribution problems. Sixty new styles are bowing at MAGIC, many of them tracksuit- based active groupings in bright colors. In addition to the brand’s staple denim jackets and jeans, there are snug cotton and Lycra spandex “catsuits,” cotton and Lycra paneled miniskirts trimmed in satin ruffles and shiny polyester-blend baseball jackets with a figure-hugging cut. Wholesale prices range from $13 for T-shirts to $41 for jeans. A reality series on a yet-to-be-named network that will chronicle the search for an Apple Bottoms spokesmodel will be officially announced at the show, and an accompanying party is in the works, as is a live interview with Nelly via satellite. FoFormerrmer Culture Club “We want the public to know about the line, not just people inside the trade,” said a frontman Boy George spokeswoman, noting the company wants to get the word out that it is Nelly’s line, “but also will DJ in the edge to that it’s a really good pair of jeans, and fashionable, too.” support the U.S. debut of his collections.

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WWDMAGIC RETAIL SPOTLIGHT trend trackers Specialty store owners are shopping WWDMAGIC with a list of runway-inspired trends in mind.

By Anamaria Wilson Silicon Valley, I have to be careful of the trends,” she said, adding that even the ubiqui- THE TRICKLE-DOWN EFFECT OF CATWALK tous flower and brooch embellishments won’t trends rages on. Designers sent a phalanx of necessarily fly with her customer. über-feminine looks down the runways for fall, San Jose’s conservatism is also an issue and retailers have narrowed down their with pricing. “When I go to MAGIC, I always favorites. For spring 2005, specialty store owners look for something new and watch my price across the country have come to WWDMAGIC points,” Levine said. in search of fashion trends that run the gamut In women’s, Levine said she is focused on from vintage-inspired print dresses and skirts items across several categories, including to shrunken jackets, tweeds and Western wear, sweaters, accessories, shoes, skirts and pants. along with seasonal staples like denim and Ts. “I am just really item-driven. Skirts have been Retailers agreed that WWDMAGIC is the big. I am going to do lots of skirts. They’re nice, place to get a read on what the mass merchants easy items to wear, whether dressing up or are selling for spring and fall. They are throwing on flip-flops.” focusing on small vendors that may not have a Dresses are not on the agenda, she noted. large presence in department stores, and they Instead, “I want a great bottom that can fit a lot are looking to pick up new vendors for the of women. I hate to put an age on our customer, ever-expanding knit and denim categories. but they’re generally 30 to 60 — but it’s really Coming off a robust spring and surprisingly more of an attitude. My customers are always profitable summer, most are optimistic about looking for great jeans. I have done great with selling spring 2005. Lucky, and Indigo Palms jeans have [done well Jaye Hirsh, owner of Los Angeles boutique in women’s.]” and online operation Intuition, carries a wide Summer Forrest, owner of Hub, a men’s and range of goods, from $300 Ugg Australia handbags women’s contemporary store in Denver, is look- to $12 Havaiana flip-flops. But at WWDMAGIC, ing for a new denim line at MAGIC this year. value-oriented items top her list. “I’m so tired of all the originals right now,” “My customers are really looking to us for Forrest said. “I’m looking for something that’s trend and fashion, but also for value,” she said, different. Something that will stand out.” noting that she will keep an eye out for vintage- The majority of the store’s offerings are inspired, textured and appliquéd T-shirts. “My from strong contemporary brands such as T-shirt business is huge right now. We are proba- Diesel, Miss Sixty and G Star. “At MAGIC we go bly selling 50 pieces a day online at a $25 price to pick up little lines to fill in the floor,” point.” Armed with a 300 percent uptick in busi- explained Forrest. ness, thanks to the launch of Intuition’s online While she is waiting to see if shoppers operation one year ago, Hirsh is prepared to will pick up on the pastel color trend, she’s write orders for denim and accessories à la definitely nixing miniskirts, keeping her Ralph Lauren’s Americana fall season or silver- focus on denim and outerwear. “We’re very and-turquoise concho belts and cuffs. denim-heavy, but I’m also looking to do light “This whole Western thing is going to trickle spring jackets like tweeds, but with a twist,” down,” she said. “Our red cowboy boots from she added. Fr ye are already selling.” Sharon Michie, owner of Shaz, a boutique in Ruthie Miller, the women’s buyer at Fort Myers, Fla., classified her tastes as run- American Rag, which has two locations in Los ning toward the classic and the feminine. Her Angeles and San Francisco, said she attends women’s offerings are made up mainly of MAGIC to get a pulse on the industry. dresses, blouses and skirts — no jeans, no Normally, she breezes through the edge trousers. “This is a dress shop. People come to streetwear show “for kitschy things” and looks me looking for party dresses for church and for T-shirts at WWDMagic. fund-raisers,” explained Michie. She does the bulk of her buys in New York At the show, she’ll be looking for retro- and Australia, but “If I see a great poncho, I’ll inspired skirts and dresses, and beautiful buy it,” she said. “I go to see what the main- slips to line the sheer silk georgette dresses stream is doing.” she carries. She eschews trendy items and For spring, Miller has an eye out for sexy, disposable clothing, opting instead for classic girly silhouettes, fashion denim and items to pieces. “fill in” the merchandise mix. Michie is also on the hunt for smaller cloth- Women have been picking up feminine, sexy ing vendors. “At MAGIC, there’s always a mix of dresses, vintage prints and florals at big companies and little companies, which I Undercover’s two stores in Los Angeles and tend to gravitate toward,” she explained. “With Santa Monica. Owner Adam Shaffer is taking the smaller ones, you can strike a deal. They that as a cue for spring 2005. “I will be looking won’t turn around and sell to another shop two for interesting colors and a mix of those inter- doors down.” esting colors,” he said, noting he will snap up Bill Hallman owns three eponymous stores dresses for day, denims, cottons, twills and jerseys. in the Atlanta area and carries such contempo- “It seems customers are taking more rary brands as Yana K., Paper Denim & Cloth, chances and wearing more prints, oranges, James Jeans and C&C California. At MAGIC, purples, greens and yellows.” Hallman typically searches for his more imme- While at MAGIC, Shaffer is planning to diate seasonal needs. court vendors from Asia, India and Latin “In terms of what I’ll be looking for in the America that generally offer better prices than coming seasons, it’s definitely newness and their European counterparts. “People are still freshness, which we’re sort of lacking,” said watching what they spend,” he said. “I don’t The fall 2004 collections from (clockwise from top right) Michael Kors, Hallman. “I want to get more sweet and sexy think we’re totally out of this recession.” Tuleh, Peter Som and Ralph Lauren have trickled down for spring. looks going at the same time, like with lacing and At Billy Martin’s, the three-unit chain that beading. Also, great accessories like hats, bags sells primarily Western wear, “We will be looking for boots, belts, buckles, really and jewelry to sort of fit into that whole trend.” cool things that go with Western wear, but are not necessarily Western,” said Hallman is particularly enthusiastic about vintage looks. “I’m really going big Enda King, manager of the Billy Martin’s store in Sunset Plaza in Los Angeles, into Forties-inspired pieces,” he said. “It’s such a great look, because you can which is currently being remodeled. dress it up or down with denim, and it can be street-smart or savvy chic. It’s sort He said Western wear is on “a new run this season. A lot of people are doing it.” of versatile, which I think people like.” Robin Levine, owner and buyer of Details, a contemporary women’s and men’s — With contributions from specialty store in San Jose, Calif., said, “Since we are in a conservative area, in Kristin Young, Los Angeles, and David Moin, New York ORS PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; SOM PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; LAUREN AND TULEH PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT AND TULEH PHOTOS BY GIANNONI; LAUREN GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO; SOM PHOTO BY ORS PHOTO BY K Jessica Simpson Jessica

When Jessica Simpson wears denim with LYCRA®, she gets a wicked fit. And we get a wickedly exciting denim campaign for LYCRA® this fall. This year, we’re even more committed to driving consumer interest in jeans with LYCRA®. For a very good reason. The brand that brought you comfort in denim, now brings you the future of fit in denim, with a soon- t o-be-announced, breakthrough innovation. To find out more about the next generation in denim, contact Libby Neuner at 302.999.4004. is a registered trademark of INVISTA for premium stretch fibers and fabrics. stretch for premium of INVISTA trademark is a registered ® 2004 LYCRA © 16 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

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WWDMAGIC ACCESSORIES

In an increasingly crowded market, accessories firms have developed their own formulas for success.

By Emily Holt

IN SPITE OF THE ECONOMIC AND POLITICAL WOES OF THE PAST few years, the accessories market has been booming, as evidenced by the 84 new accessories resources exhibiting at WWDMAGIC this week. One reason for this is that today’s fashion-savvy but budget-strapped cus- tomers are more anxious than ever to hop on the latest trends, and often the most cost-effective way to update a wardrobe is with an of-the- moment bag or brooch. “It’s all the time — even when the market is depressed, people still buy jewelry,” said Janet Winchell, chief execu- Kipling’s nylon bags. tive officer of jewelry brand Bella Sole, “but it has to be within the right price point.” She noted that her pieces in semiprecious stones and crystals, which wholesale from $3 to $450, perform well in part be- cause of the strong trend in color, but also because of their broad price range. The success of the acces- sories market, however, could be considered a double-edged sword: As it becomes a higher- volume category, more designers are drawn into the market, driving up competition. And these days, it can take they’re being more rigorous. It will take longer to get very little to compete. With goods, but we’re prepared.” the growing presence of digi- Dorfman Pacific Inc., the Stockton, Calif.-based headwear tal cameras at trade shows, company, increased its storage depot to 275,000 square Winchell noted, “The stuff is feet in order to increase its in-season inventory. being copied and made before “We are jumping on trends much quicker,” said the show is even over.” Art Gardner, senior vice president of sales and Still, she conceded, “There is marketing. He added that pink, blue, red and room out there for everybody — purple are important colors right now, and it just depends on who you are men’s wear fabrics like tweed and styles like targeting. You have to work closely fedoras will be popular. with your buyers to get a sense of what people want.” THE COLOR OF MONEY Handbag company Hobo International in LISTEN UP Annapolis, Md., plays up practicality to attract buy- Kira Prazak, office manager of New York- ers. For holiday and spring, double-frame wallets can based brand Carolina Amato, agreed that also be carried as a clutch, and some have drop-in straps listening to retailers is the best way to stay that turn them into shoulder purses. ahead. The company manufactures shawls, Though color is an important element in the collection, Martha Above right, Seasonal ive instincts wraps, ponchos, gloves, hats and scarves Radford, a designer for the brand, is looking a step ahead. that wholesale from $18 to $200. Whispers’ crystal “It’s incredible how color is driving the business. We felt that Ponchos are a key accessory for fall going bead and rhinestone strongly a year ago, but we don’t see any sign of that letting up,” she into spring, and Carolina Amato will offer belt; below, Sun N said. “But for spring we’re looking at a more sophisticated neutral them in velvet and silks for holiday and linen Sand’s beaded cotton color palette, because we think there’s a customer who’s tired of and gauze for spring. But with such a trendy beach bag. screaming brights.” product, how does a firm make sure that its Maintaining price points is also a concern style stands out for buyers? among vendors. “You have to be consistently “Our shape is different than any other working at keeping your prices at the shape,” Prazak said. “It’s open at the sleeves, bridge level,” Radford continued. “You and the long triangle silhouette have to look to further sourcing and come draws attention away from the up with a great idea and find a way to do waist. We also use unique de- it for less.” Hobo bags wholesale from

tit tails like buttons and bows.” $29.50 to $85. Another factor that Prazak said puts the company ahead is NAME RECOGNITION its flexibility with deliveries. Los Angeles-based brand Surly Girl

e “We’re able to offer closer deliv- works the celebrity angle to hold its eries, and we don’t mind holding own in the increasingly crowded mar- deliveries for three months,” ket. Britney Spears took three bags on Prazak said, adding that about half her short-lived European tour, and of the firm’s goods are produced Nicole Ritchie, Kathy Hilton and domestically, and half overseas. Rachel Hunter have been seen with “Retailers are buying closer to the bags as well. “[Having celebri- delivery dates because they’re not ties wear your bags] helps sell, sure what’s going to happen, mostly especially here, where the for financial reasons, but also for boutiques have seen everything,” political reasons, with what’s going on said designer Alison Muh. mp in the world these days.” Muh, a former investment banker, tries to sustain a signature INVENTORY CONTROL look in the collection, which whole- International security has increased, sales from $65 to $200. “You want to be but most companies have anticipated able to look across the room and not see a this and don’t foresee major problems big logo stamped all over the bag, but still be with goods being held up in Customs. able to tell whose it is. If I spend $400 on a bag, I want “Security is tighter, but it’s smoother,” people to know which brand it is,” she said. Prazak said. “It’s more organized, because Continued on page 18 co PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY

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WWDMAGIC ACCESSORIES Jeanne Simmons’ acrylic poncho for Hat Shack.

Continued from page 16 Colors like hot pink, black and turquoise play prominently throughout, and silhouettes are focused on larger totes and briefcase styles for career-minded customers. Rhinestone buckles jazz up the pieces, and an evening collection is in the works for holiday. Still, Muh has noticed retailers are buying closer to deliveries, which she thinks works to her advantage, as all her bags are made in Los Angeles. “The fast turnaround helps us stay competitive,” she said. “Everybody wants it yesterday.” However, Audree Halasz, designer and owner of Dutchy Bags in San Francisco, is actually looking to start manufacturing abroad so she can continue to offer affordable products. “I’m looking to get things made overseas. Being able to keep my price point down but still offer funky high-end bags will be a key aspect,” she said. Her wholesale prices range from $50 to $145. Halasz will add 12 new styles to her collection for spring, bringing a total of 18 to market. WWDMAGIC will be the first major trade show for Dutchy Bags, which is named after Halasz’ father’s child- hood nickname. TAKING CARE OF BASICS At Kipling North America, continued growth is all about finding a bal- ance between the basics people need and the trendy items that drive purchases among both buyers and consumers. “It can’t all be fashion and it can’t all be basic, so what’s the magic mix?” asked Georgia Grant, vice president and general manager of Kipling. She added that although stores bought immediates dur- ing the August market week in New York, “They come to MAGIC Liquid Metal black looking for spring direction.” leather and metal bag. The brand will offer bags from $18 to $90 wholesale in bright colors like pink, turquoise and lime green. Key prints will be nautical motifs and a muted camouflage. Grant said it’s important to work closely with buyers to help support their basics busi- ness, but also to encourage them to feel confident with more fashion looks. “Our challenge is how to get retailers to display that [mix] optimally so the customer sees there’s new product and comes back into the store.” When the main floor is full with product, as it is these days, competing for customers is a challenge. But Grant is confident in Kipling’s ive instincts strategy. “One, stay true to the customer base, and don’t abandon them for the next trend. Two, make sure how you interpret the trends is going to follow the brand,” she said. “Color and print direction should stay true to what your brand means. Don’t lose yourself in a trend, because when the trend is over, your

tit bottom falls out.” e mp

Donald J. Pliner’s leather bag and Lodis LA’s leather wallets. elastic mesh and leather sandal. co “the fox is back”

THE RETRO FOX TM

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by appointment only 1411 Broadway 29th Floor New York, New York 10018 tel: 212.221.8787 fax:212. 221.8717 www:TheRetroFox.com 20 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

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WWDMAGIC JUNIOR/YOUNG CONTEMPORARY junior achievement Despite pressure from low-price chains, designers are staying focused on the needs of young women.

By Sarah Jenks Rubber Doll’s striped THE JUNIOR AND YOUNG CONTEMPORARY MARKETS ARE ALL ABOUT cotton and nylon sweater. providing trendy and individual looks at prices these cash-strapped consumers can afford. As mass retailers such as Wal-Mart, Target and Kmart try to woo teens with rock-bottom prices on private label and exclusive brands, many of the junior and young contemporary resources exhibiting at WWDMAGIC are standing their ground with unique, quality clothes at competitive prices. “The key to staying ahead in this business is knowing who your target market is and giving them what they want, but with your personal style and flare. Young people easily adapt to trends, but it’s a matter of keeping up with their constant change,” said Tiffany Carter, owner and designer of Beverly Hills-based young contemporary resource April & Mae. “You have to change before they do by intro- ducing one or two great trends in your line per season and mixing it with classic styles and basics that will keep your sales flowing.” CHEAP BUT CHIC Carter saw a keyhole in the market for lingerie-like apparel that could also be worn out of the house. “Loungerie is what I like to call it,” she said of the mini terry robes and satiny cami sets that wholesale from $42 to $80. Grind Although thousands of similar items are sold Queen’s at mass retailers, Carter feels that juniors cotton and would rather wear her original butterfly logo. spandex “They are still into labels and will pay for it,” tank and she said of her line, which sells in Los cotton Angeles area boutiques such as Blue denim Violet. “Wal-Mart and Target are great for skirt for add-on items and layering pieces, but I Dark don’t think that their strong presence is Horse. going to hurt small boutiques. Boutiques will always be ahead of what’s happening in fashion and that’s where the young market wants to be,” she said. New York’s Rubber Doll prides itself on providing juniors with innovative tops that, with whole- sale prices of $9 to $16, are well below boutique prices. “Our customers are looking for a product with no duplication and we provide that,” said co- owner Steven Oshatz. Among the looks Rubber Doll is bringing to WWDMAGIC are a white nylon top with horizontal pink and lime green mesh stripes, ribbed cuffs and an off-the-shoulder competitive prices, therefore ribbed collar, as well as a soft making stylish clothing more ramie-cotton hooded, zip-front accessible to even more cardigan in two-tone pink with women,” said Tara Hannert, side pockets that is designed spokeswoman for BCBG to be worn as an accessory Max Azria Group. rather than for warmth. With wholesale prices Oshatz expects the spring that range from $42 for collection to do well. “We have shirts to $109 for novelty had great success at WWD- jackets, To The Max will use MAGIC. We always manage to a national advertising cam- pick up new business there, and paign, Web site and direct mail to find our business is up 60 per- target the modern woman and win cent during the past year,” he David and her discretionary dollars. said. The line is available at Goliath’s “Our customers are major department stores and cotton tank modern, savvy women who junior specialty chains, including and cotton will go to mass retailer stores Gadzooks, Parisian, Macy’s West and spandex to save money on certain and Nordstrom. top and skirt. household items,” said Hannert. “The money they AGING GRACEFULLY save by shopping at these stores affords In an effort to grow with its cus- them to shop at higher-end stores for tomer, former junior resource To clothing and accessories — the categories The Max, a division of BCBG Max that they prefer to spend their money on.” Azria Group, has repositioned To The Max is sold in department itself as a young contemporary line stores including Marshall Field’s, targeted at the 20- to 45-year-old cus- Dillard’s, Dayton Hudson, Macy’s, tomer who is fashion-conscious but Burdines and Nordstrom. financially conservative. The changes include more sophisticated styling and GROWTH STRATEGIES higher-grade fabrics. Los Angeles-based Mighty Fine has “To The Max’s goal is to give the under- charted steady growth in sales over served consumer superior fashion at Continued on page 22 PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY

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WWDMAGIC JUNIOR/YOUNG CONTEMPORARY junior achievement

Continued from page 20 the past year. “Back-to-school is meeting our expectations and we expect Soundgirl’s cotton a strong spring season,” said Patty Timsawat, vice president of opera- hoodie and shorts. tions for Mighty Fine, which produces licensed apparel featuring Peanuts and Disney characters that wholesales from $11 to $13 under the Doe brand. Part of Mighty Fine’s success can be attributed to its diverse range of accounts. “We sell to boutiques, national specialty retailers and depart- ment stores, providing styles that are well suited to our customers shop- ping at each of these retailers,” said Morgan Ward, licensing manager for Mighty Fine. The Doe line is available at Kohl’s, J.C. Penney and May Co. stores and doeworld.com. RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT It’s Our Time, a $65 million-plus knitwear and denim division of Fashion Avenue Knits, has used information to its advantage in this fast-changing market. After researching trends, shopping extensively in the United States and Europe and benefiting from product development efforts in its private label business, It’s Our Time has added cut-and-sew tops and denim to its previously sweater-focused line. Wholesale prices range from $5 for a top to $15 for a sweater and $20 for bottoms. The cut-and-sew division, in particular, is growing quickly, and company sales “could reach over $70 million” in the next year, said Todd Resnick, vice president of sales. The company is expanding into trade shows, co-op advertising and charity sponsorships to help build the brand name. “We do a lot of co-op advertising with stores like Burdines, Macy’s, Dillard’s and Maurice’s, where we participate in their advertising campaigns as well as in their in-store promotions, either as an event or a [point-of-sale] giveaway,” said Resnick. It’s Our Time has turned to novelty in the form of new pastel shades and casual tops with smocking and sparkles in a bid to create a sought- after look that will give shoppers a reason to buy. “As long as videos, movies and celebrities emulate trends, then the junior customer will look to the specialty and chain arenas for the slightly edgier or trendy styles,” Resnick said.

West Coast Choppers’ cotton tank.

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WWDMAGIC TRENDS

From juniors, From young Mudd’s cotton contemporary, sweater and Hard Tail’s American Apparel’s cotton top, and cotton top, and from juniors, from streetwear Volcom’s square pegs at MAGIC, Harlow’s cotton shorts. Right now, it’s hip cotton denim jeans. to be square. And designers at MAGIC are working a slightly preppy motif that’s a little bit geeky — plaids, tennis sweaters and lots of layers. WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 25

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From young contemporary, MELISSA MAGSAYSAY E; STYLED BY Skecher’s cotton blazer, and from streetwear, Op’s cotton halter and Maui and Son’s cotton denim skirt.

From juniors, Rip From juniors, Curl’s cotton knit Hot Kiss’ wool tube top and sweater, and YMI’s cotton from streetwear, denim jeans, and Stussy’s, cotton from designer tank and shorts. contemporary at MAGIC, Ben Sherman’s cotton blazer. PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA; MODEL: BRANDISE/Q MODELS; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY ARLENE SILVER/CELESTINE; FASHION ASSISTANT: TAYLOR PRIC TAYLOR ASSISTANT: FASHION ARLENE SILVER/CELESTINE; SARDELLA; MODELS; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MODEL: BRANDISE/Q DONATO PHOTOS BY 26 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

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WWDMAGIC CONTEMPORARY novelt y

Mica’s silk shops dress with jeweled A continuous stream of new looks aids cash flow brooch. in the contemporary category.

By Georgia Lee NOVELTY, FASHION AND CONSTANT NEWNESS HAVE BECOME COMMON CURRENCY for players in the contemporary category. With color, fresh silhouettes and vintage graphics giving women a reason to buy, vendors are reporting increased sales over last year. Lines are also reaching out to new markets, introducing new products and divisions with more sophisticated upper-end product to set them apart from mass- market resources. Lit Jeans’ cotton For the fast-paced, highly competitive demin skirt. category — and the fickle contemporary consumer — brand-building strategies are also a must. Companies are employing creative marketing plans, from grassroots campaigns to celebrity product placement, to build brand awareness. BRAND AND DELIVER At French Connection U.K., sales of women’s apparel, which accounts for 35 percent of the total men’s and women’s sportswear line, in- creased 20 percent over last year, according to Dina McCaffrey, vice president, wholesale, for the London-based global company. Novelty and color have driven sales, along with quick reaction and replenishment of strong sellers, said McCaffrey. Skirts, always a big category for French Connection, have been especially strong this year, as consumers have embraced them. McCaffrey said skirts will continue through fall, in longer pencil shapes and tweeds, and into next spring, in feminine pleated and embellished styles. Color will also be important through spring 2005, but in more muted earth tones rather than last year’s brights. With established online sales and a catalogue distributed in Europe, French Connection will test its first U.S. catalogue this fall. The company is also working to grow its French Connection U.K. line, a group of logo-driven sportswear and denim marketed under the controversial acronym FCUK. “Specialty stores have loved it, but because of the possible dyslexic reading of the name, department stores have been more afraid of it,” said McCaffrey. “It’s be- come our biggest challenge, getting department store distribution [of FCUK].” Along with traditional advertising, the company is expanding its grass-roots campaigns, including street marketing teams, ads on city buses and tie-ins with movies, celebrities and music, such as its participation in MTV’s “Rock the Vote.” FASHIONABLE ICONS The same sort of strategy applies at Catch a Fire, a sportswear line designed by Cedella Marley, daughter of the late reggae legend Bob Marley. The New York company hired a public relations firm six months ago, solely for prod- uct placement with celebrities and musicians. Since then the line has re- ceived editorial coverage in Glamour, YM and the forthcoming Suede, and celebrities such as Ashlee Simpson and Carmen Electra have been seen wearing the clothes. The line began in 2002 with Bob Marley-inspired T-shirts ($15 wholesale) and now in- cludes vintage concert T-shirts from the company’s archives. T-shirts are 40 percent of the collec- tion, which has expanded to include more denim, sportswear and jackets, some in leather or tweed, that wholesale for up to $200. “We’re going after a higher-end, sophisticated customer, and urban stores are crossing over and trading up,” said Karen Greenberg, manager. “Jackets, many with leather or floral patches, have be- come as successful as the original T-shirts.” Sportswear and jackets maintain the musical message. Pockets and linings often feature Bob Marley’s image. Iconic images are also the foundation of Awake, a licensed sportswear division of JEM Sportswear in Los Angeles. With Disney and vintage Barbie licenses for sportswear, the company will also launch sportswear with characters from the classic comic strip Peanuts. Like its other licensed product lines, JEM’s Vintage Peanuts line is a high-end presentation. Specialty Indian and Egyptian cotton is used, with novelty in vintage-inspired washes, embroidery and treatments WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 27

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such as heat seals. Wholesale prices run $18 to $40. “We have to be trend-right, and offer unique features not found in mass markets,” said Jeff Marine, Petit Pois’ nylon president of JEM Sportswear. “We have to keep new and fresh, and offer the fashion and quality to set us top and skirt. apart from lower-end product.” EXTENDED REACH Brand identity and brand extension — through the unconventional process of an apparel line spawned by cosmetics — is the keystone of Femme Arsenal, New York. Launched five years ago as a cosmetics line, Femme Arsenal has expanded to include an apparel collection for spring 2005. Parent company Marc Ecko Enterprises, which bought the line in 2002, produces what began as a small fleece group in 2003 and has expanded to 40 styles, including outerwear, tanks, skirts and pants. A new French terry group, lined with cotton jersey, includes short-sleeved hoodies and dresses, with graphic print details. The collection wholesales from $22 to $45. The line mixes luxury design and street influences with irreverent takes on iconic designers, such as a Chanel-inspired fleece blazer lined in leopard print. Unexpected applications include bandeau tops that double as belts and reversible print/solid tube skirts. Sales are expected to double from $1 million in 2003 to a projected $2 million this year, according to Jessy Klein Fofana, director of operations. Lifestyle branding, or presenting all categories unified under one brand, is an idea that works especially well for the company’s 200 specialty store accounts, which include Fred Segal in Los Angeles. Some smaller specialty stores can present the brand in complete display vignettes, said Fofana. The message of the line as “the thinking girl’s brand” targets women 17 to 32 who also appreciate brands such as Miss Sixty or Diesel, she added. As part of the brand extension, the original cosmetics line is also growing, with the spring 2005 intro- duction of a “lifestyle/wellness” brand. Accessories, including bags, hats and socks, which retail from $30 to $300, are also part of the lifestyle concept.

Cyrus’ viscose and nylon tops.

LaVie Boheme’s rayon and nylon tank and cotton sateen skirt for InGauge. PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY 28 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

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WWDMAGIC IN. DEX avalue proposition In•dex vendors compete by sticking close to the principles on which they were founded.

By Sarah Jenks Left: Love Ady’s cotton top and THE IN•DEX PAVILION AT WWDMAGIC WAS CREATED TO SET CERTAIN CONTEMPORARY cotton skirt for vendors in a class of their own. Participants are expected to be up-and-coming, hot or relatively new Necessary fashion-forward companies. As such, in•dex vendors, including TNA, Bat’s Daughter, 2 Love and Objects. Here: BCBGirls, have more basic concerns than economic issues, the impending quota-free era and the November election. Of utmost priority to them is Bat’s Daughter’s how to produce fresh and innovative styles at competitive prices and get silk chiffon dress. their name and product out in the market without sacrificing the indie spirit of a small operation. A NEW NICHE TNA is not a new kid on the block, but the swimwear company has successfully created and maintained a line of original, unconstructed bikinis that have been hot sellers. “We are seven years young with no parent company,” said Lisa Lozano, owner and designer for TNA, “and we have had record-breaking sales this past year.” Lozano founded TNA based on a long-held belief. “Back in the Nineties, bikinis were irrelevant and ignored in the fashion world. Everything was neon, floral and padded. Simple, unconstructed bikinis in beautiful colors did not exist,” she said. So she created itsy-bitsy bikinis, which average around $52 wholesale. They generated some buzz around Los Angeles and were featured in Vogue, and “after that, TNA hit the ground running.” To keep its name and look top-of-mind, TNA distributes a slick annual catalogue to its retailers, including Barneys, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Victoria’s Secret and Saks Fifth Avenue, and has a corporate showroom at the New Mart in Los Angeles. In addition to its advertising efforts, TNA also gets regular editorial coverage, thanks in part to a celebrity following that includes Elle MacPherson, Jessica Simpson, Gwyneth Paltrow and Paris Hilton, among others. Lozano also credits the com- pany’s “great relationships with magazine editors and stylists who call us for photo shoots.” MAX-IMUM EXPOSURE BCBGirls, from parent company BCBG Max Azria, is launching at WWDMAGIC. Founded 15 years ago by Max Azria, BCBG was named for the Parisian phrase “bon chic, bon genre,” meaning “good style, good attitude.” “I founded this in ’89 with the guiding principle of offering women designer clothing at affordable price points,” Azria said. Under the BCBG Max Azria umbrella, Azria has extended this philosophy into several labels, in- cluding women’s ready-to-wear, swimwear, footwear, accessories and fragrance. BCBGirls started as a fragrance before branching into accessories and, now, sportswear. “The addition of a full sportswear line [transforms] BCBGirls into a youthful, hip and energetic brand appealing to a body- conscious, fashion- and celebrity-driven consumer,” said a spokeswoman for BCBG Max Azria Group. The spring line is a Seventies urban look blended with rich bohemian influ- ences to complement several denim washes, she said. “The BCBGirl is trendy, fun and ener- getic. She loves to express her personality by playing with her clothes.” Although the line has a range of fabrics, from washed, distressed silk to canvas and signature knits, the average price will remain competitive, in keeping with Azria’s founding principle. Wholesale prices range from $43 for a basic knit top to $153 for a novelty jacket. Company officials would not predict sales figures. To market the BCBGirls sportswear line, the company is turning to national advertising campaigns and direct mailings. “Direct mail will play an integral role, with look books being mailed to potential customers at key accounts,” said the spokeswoman. The company is also focused on getting editorial coverage in top fashion and lifestyle magazines, and plans to launch a Web site in the fall. “BCBG Max Azria Group will also use its strong relationships with Hollywood to position the brands on brand-appropriate personalities in young Hollywood,” she added. As for the impact of a still-sluggish economy, she said that when consumers’ confidence is down, the company believes shoppers are more Continued on page 30 OVE ADY PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; BIG BLUE/JONAH CROWE/BAT’S DAUGHTER/GASP PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY DAUGHTER/GASP CROWE/BAT’S THOMAS IANNACCONE; BIG BLUE/JONAH PHOTO BY OVE ADY L WWW.LTBUSA.COM L TB SHOWROOM 499 SEVENTHAVE NY NY10018T:212.868.2330 MAGIC BOOTH #DE5523 MAGIC BOOTH 30 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

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WWDMAGIC IN. DEX Gasp’s silk and spandex camisole avalue with brooch. proposition

Continued from page 28 likely to gravitate toward brands that, like BCBGirls, offer a high-end con- temporary look at affordable prices. BCBGirls will be in such stores as Marshall Field’s, Dillard’s, Burdines Macy’s and Nordstrom. STAR POWER Fairly new to the scene but already on the in crowd’s lips is the Sherman Oaks, Calif.-based 2 Love. Founded by president Kristi Kaylor-Schwartz and chief executive officer Matt Schwartz in June 2003, 2 Love is known for its love-themed, celebrity-designed T-shirts. Inspired by their own romance, the couple formed 2 Love to share the good vibes with shoppers. The line is now sold in more than 500 stores nationwide and is on the path to becoming a multimillion-dollar company, said Kaylor-Schwartz. The company continues to add lines, such as the new Mblem brand designed by singer-actress Mandy Moore. The company has been careful to grow within the con- fines of its mission — “2 Love who you are…2 Love what you do…2 Love your style…2 Love others” — and use it as a key element of its marketing initiative. The celebrity-designed T-shirt line, Spread the Love with 2 Love, which donates a percentage of the proceeds to a charity of the star’s choosing, has raised significant funds for charities, includ- ing Step Up Women’s Network, a nonprofit organization dedicated to strengthening community resources for women. “Having celebrities’ designs not only has given 2 Love an edge and insight into trends, but has also generated extensive publicity and awareness of the brand,” said Kaylor- Schwartz. Big Blue’s For the 2003 Emmy Awards, 2 Love supplied gift bags for cotton pants the celebrity hosts, honorees and award winners. For addi- and jacket. tional exposure, 2 Love partnered with Macy’s, NBC, “Will & Grace” and GE for the “More Love with 2 Love Sweepstakes ‘Will & Grace’ Adventure” in which a winner and his/her valentine won a trip to Los Angeles, a Macy’s gift certificate and a meet-and-greet with the cast and crew of the sitcom. In addition to its celebrity Ts, 2 Love also produces sexy thermal layering pieces like a lightweight cap-sleeved T or tank top. The brand is available at Macy’s West, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom and specialty boutiques such as Fred Segal and Kitson in Beverly Hills. It wholesales from $22 to $34. GOOD AND GIRLY Bat’s Daughter grew out of a need facing many college grads today — finding an appropriate suit for job interviews. Angela Batinovich, president and ceo, found that in her post- collegiate shopping adventures, she could never find a line of clothing that suited women with a love for all things girly, while still looking professional. With an educational and familial background in business (her father is also an entrepreneur), Batinovich decided to start Bat’s Daughter, beginning with a fall 2004 collection. So far, “Sales have been incredible with over $150,000 worth of orders, without a sales rep or showroom,” she said. Bat’s Daughter is available at Big Drop and Blush in New York, Rabat in San Francisco, Moselle in Santa Monica and the Garnet Room in Los Angeles. Wholesale prices range from $60 to $295 for the spring collection of flirty dresses, trenchcoats and suits. Instead of advertising, Bat’s Daughter is focusing on public relations and has retained the services of InkPR Group in Los Angeles. There has already been interest from trade magazines and consumer magazines such as In Style, Allure and Glamour. Alicia Silverstone also requested a few pieces after attending a small pre-Oscar party Bat’s Daughter held in a hotel suite. Plans for a spring fashion show are now in the works. Bat’s Daughter is currently produced in Los Angeles from fabrics sourced in Europe, an expensive choice that Batinovich made with quality in mind. “We cannot rely on ‘cheap labor’ to produce the high quality of garment that our customers expect for the price they are paying,” she said. “Eventually, not many domes- tic manufacturers will be able to compete with overseas production prices and we will have to explore other options.” Jonah Crowe’s lace top and cotton pants. VISIT US AT MAGIC BOOTH # WS 16506

CANADIAN HEAD OFFICE: TRIBAL SPORTSWEAR INC. Te l.: 514-322-5337 Toll Free: 1-888-584-4225 Customer Service Toll Free: Tel.: 1-888-584-4225 UNITED STATES: TRIBU INTERNATIONAL INC. Te l.: 212-944-6940 Toll Free: 1-800-208-2860 Customer Service Toll Free: Tel.: 1-888-584-4225

UNITED STATES SALES REPRESENTATIVES: N. DAKOTA / S. DAKOTA / NEBRASKA / IOWA / UPPER-MICHIGAN / MINNESOTA / WISCONSIN Steve Barger Co. Inc. 1-800-848-4912 ext. 2892. CALIFORNIA / NEVADA / ARIZONA / HAWAII Lee Smith & Connie Smith Sales, Inc. San Francisco,Tel: 925-240-0684. Los Angeles,Tel: 213-629-3570. OREGON / WASHINGTON / ALASKA / N.IDAHO Judy Billings, Sales Tel: 206-706-1763. MISSOURI KANSAS Gary Hagenbach & Co.,Tel: 816-880-3777. OKLAHOMA / MISSISSIPPI / ARKANSAS / TEXAS / LOUISIANA / MEXICO Jerone Albritton,Tel: 903-577-7299. VERMONT / MAINE / NEW HAMPSHIRE / MASSACHUSETTS / CONNECTICUT / RHODE ISLAND Christine Pekar Charlie Stebbins,Tel: 207-787-3508. N. CAROLINA / S. CAROLINA / VIRGINIA / S.WEST VIRGINIA Lee Miller, Tel: 336-674-5748. GEORGIA / ALABAMA / TENNESSEE / KENTUCKY Tom Falkner,Tel: 615-373-0055. WISCONSIN / NEBRASKA / UPPER-MICHIGAN Steve Barger Co. Inc., Tel / Fax: 563-452-4130. FLORIDA Tom Stein and Associates,Tel: 561-533-0310. ILLINOIS / OHIO / LOWER-MICHIGAN / INDIANA Hans Behr Nancy Leonard, Associate,Tel: 312-836-0346. NEW MEXICO / COLORADO SOUTH IDAHO / MONTANA UTAH / WYOMING Ron Elledge,Tel: 208-938-1139. NEW YORK STATE / NORTH NEW JERSEY Jerry & Lenni Flomberg,Tel: 718-591-7576. PENNSYLVANIA DELAWARE / MARYLAND / SOUTH NEW JERSEY / WASHINGTON D.C. / NORTH WEST VIRGINIA Joel Scudder,Tel: 215-628-8886.

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WWDMAGIC JUNIOR ACCESSORIES

extra effort Accessories makers are working harder to produce the novelty their market demands.

By Kavita Daswani “We want these girls to be able to come in with their allowance and find some- thing,” she said. WITH AN ECONOMY THAT IS STILL IN RECOVERY mode; retail accounts that have either shut down, cut back on orders or are slower to pay; escalating pro- COST CONTROL duction costs; knock-offs of their newest products, and a mar- For other vendors, increasing profitability by lowering production costs has be- ket that is saturated with every type of junior accessory, come a new priority. vendors said they have to try harder than ever to keep “So far, things have been OK this season — it hasn’t been great, but it’s not business buoyant. terrible either,” said Seana Pedelaborde, owner of A Mano LLC in Berkeley, Exhibitors in WWDMAGIC’s junior accessories Calif., which makes bags and jewelry. A number of her accounts have gone category are aware of the challenges they face in out of business, and that, combined with what she called “a market flooded 2005. But to counter all that, they know they need to with bags,” has made for some challenging months. come up with products that nobody else has and “But it’s a question of always doing something more original or better,” that all the retailers want. she said of her bags, which wholesale at $10. “In the end, the difference between what you pay and what you can sell Above: Hello Kitty charms, NOVELTY NEWS it for is the most important thing for survival,” she said. While her “If you have merchandise that’s different, they will bracelets, pendants, production is currently concentrated primarily in Mexico, she is buy,” said Michael Datz, president of Waltham, Mass.- buttons, rings and considering exploring China as another option, where produc- based Trendy LLC. “If not, they’ll pass you by.” keychains from Winky & tion costs might be lower. A producer of costume jewelry in the $1 to $3 Dutch. Here: Faith Knight’s wholesale range, Datz said that recent offerings of crystal beaded choker. LOTS OF LINES leather and dyed cotton items, and those embellished Other companies are doing more radical things such as with stones and shells, have fared well so far among launching entire new categories. At Top Trendz, a maker his accounts, which include specialty stores as of headbands and jewelry in Bayshore, N.Y., a new ready- well as majors. But he conceded that business has to-wear line is being unveiled to complement the acces- been soft compared with last year. sories — anything, said president Corey Glassberg, to give “People aren’t spending as much money. Gas is business a boost. expensive, and while our business on the islands has “We’re hoping the economy will take a turn for the bet- been good, in the United States, it’s been a little soft.” ter,” he said. “It’s been a slow summer, but business is Datz said he manages to keep production costs low — starting to take off again.” most of his manufacturing is done in China, Indonesia, Like other vendors, he said it’s important to “be on the Philippines and Greece — but he said the key was to top of what’s the next hot thing.” His latest offerings come out with new products all the time. will include accessories made from brightly colored “The juniors are the ones who spend money, and if you have nylon that junior customers can braid to come up with something different, the business is always there. But retailers different color combinations. Many items also are stud- are paying slower, and they’re just not reordering as much as they ded with rhinestones or accented with jeweled hearts, did last summer,” he said. stars and flowers. Valia Glytsis, vice president of marketing for High IntenCity, a “When you’re original and not copying what every- maker of jeweled charms based in Fair Lawn, N.J., agreed that a one else is doing, it helps the stores, which want items cornerstone of the category is novelty. Although the Hello Kitty and that don’t look like the same, old, regurgitated thing,” said Disney charms continue to do well, the company is preparing to Glassberg. “They want things that are packaged differently, and launch a line of “trend-focused jewelry.” that are innovative and exciting.” His offerings range at whole- “[For] anything that tweens are wearing, we want to be the source that they sale from $24 to $120 a dozen. turn to,” Glytsis said of the line’s necklaces, bracelets and hair accessories. “Everyone copies everyone in this business, but specialty “We’re looking to become a lifestyle accessory brand for these girls.” stores have to be thinking outside the box, as well. They can’t just Glytsis said that both retailers and end-consumers want as much choice as possi- stick with one item, which is why we have to be constantly improv- ble, so new collections will offer a variety of color stories, metals, beads and stones. Continued on page 34 ITH KNIGHT/FAD TREASURES PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE TREASURES PHOTOS BY ITH KNIGHT/FAD FA

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WWDMAGIC JUNIOR ACCESSORIES Charm It’s crystal, metal and ribbon charm extra effort necklace.

Continued from page 32 ing and keeping customers excited,” he said. “Because even if the economy is poor, if the product is right, they’ll buy it regardless.” Fad Treasures’ metal buckle with leather belt. CLASSIC CHARM That said, old favorites continue to work well when given a tweak, as is the case with the Hello Kitty and Disney charms from High IntenCity. New York-based Winky & Dutch, a jewelry maker, said that its vintage-styled Hello Kitty and Elvis Presley accessories have been doing solid business. “Our products are unique and well known, so people come and look for us,” said Trisha Cluck, execu- tive salesperson for the line, which includes rings, barrettes, key chains and wristbands for less than $20 wholesale. The collection also extends to an older demographic with items such as ashtrays. “We have themes ranging from children to sort of X-rated,” she said. “But the look is punk rock and vintage at the same time, which appeals to funky stores and boutiques. It’s a very specific market,” said Cluck. LIGHT A CANDLE But the comparatively flat market isn’t bad news for everyone. Hay House, a Carlsbad, Calif., publisher of self-help books and inspirational cards, has branched out into products such as scented candles and other gift items skewed to 18-year-olds and older, and is showing at MAGIC for the first time. Danny Levin, the company’s director of business development, said that, when the economy is suffering, people turn to companies like his. “We deal with a lot of spas and specialty gift stores, and overall, things have been phenomenal,” he said. Hay House has used the recognition value of best-selling self-help authors and combined those with what he called “gift-able formats.” Soy candles scented with essential oils that wholesale for $7.50 are doing well at high-end spas and gift boutiques, and Levin said there are plans in the works to expand into clothing boutiques. Over the past several years, he said, he’s seen consistent double-digit growth. And while last year that came down to “a high single-digit” increase, he conceded that was better than what a lot of other companies were facing. “It’s been very good for us. Part of what happens when the economy gets bad is that people start to reevaluate what’s important to them in their life.” put a lid on it A hat giveaway help buyers head off unwanted attention. TRADE SHOWS CAN BE TEDIOUS, ESPECIALLY WHEN EVERYONE BEGINS TO SOUND like a broken record. Dozens of times a day, buyers must repeat which trends they need and how large, or small, their budget is as vendors flip through their collections piece by piece. But headwear licensor Hyp has turned a major trend, the trucker cap, into a solution. The company created hats with a plastic display window and inter- changeable cards with sentiments including “No new vendors,” “I need mark- down money,” “Out of business cards” and “Already have dinner plans.” Intended to be given to 50 buyers at WWDMAGIC, the concept is sure to keep conversations short and sweet. “These are things we’ve heard from buyers over the years at trade shows,” said president Howard Levy, adding that the idea was originally meant to be a convenient way for retailers to display their show badges. But with the addition of the phrase cards, the hats have become a unique way “to save buyers’ time by helping them to avoid frivolous conversations.” The hats come in black and white with cards in an array of colors. For now, the run of 50 will be only for buyers at the show, but Levy would like to bring the concept to the consumer market for fall. Hyp licenses headwear, cold weather gear and socks for Mudd, Disney, Caribbean Joe and It’s Happy Bunny, but Levy could not say under which brand he plans to produce the caps, which would be sold with 10 interchange- able cards. “[The hats are] something that’s great for ID cards, or hunting and fishing licenses. But we’re taking it one step further and will be playing on whatever the hottest graphic trends are.” — Emily Holt Visit the Microsoft exhibit in the Grand Lobby at MAGIC August 30-September 2, 2004

Finally, point-of-sale made simple!

Keeping your eye on the big picture while still making sure every detail is handled to perfection: it’s the magic formula for retail. Microsoft® Retail Management System helps secure your competitive edge, increase profitability, plus so much more! • Increase POS and operating efficiencies • Automate inventory tracking • Flexible reporting • Track customer history • Manage employee information • Execute promotional pricing changes • And much more!

Visit the Microsoft exhibit in the Grand Lobby at MAGIC August 30-September 2, 2004. You’ll learn more about how Microsoft Retail Management System enables you to serve customers effectively, maintain tight control over processes and performance, reduce costs and keep pace with larger businesses. www.microsoft.com/businesssolutions/pos

© 2004 Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved. Microsoft is a registered trademark of Microsoft Corporation in the United States and/or other countries. 36 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

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WWDMAGIC THE EDGE crossing over

In an effort to boost sales, contemporary retailers are taking a walk on the wild side by shopping the edge at MAGIC.

By Michelle Dalton Tyree Anarchtee’s cotton T-shirt. THE EDGE, WHICH BEGAN IN 1998 AND HOUSES A MIX OF GOTH, rock-, street- and fetishwear, has always been considered a fashion incu- bator for emerging and underground companies that don’t want to risk being seen as “sellouts” by graduating to the more mainstream show areas. But the secret is out among contemporary retailers, which are casting a wider net over the offerings at the edge. “Retailers are realizing that they have to keep their product mix fresh when they’re struggling for the same consumer dollar,” said a spokeswoman for MAGIC International. “They’re looking for something cool and edgy and funky to add to their contem- porary pieces.” Fraser Ross, owner of Kitson, the Los Angeles “It” boutique, said that he shops the edge in search of unique T-shirts and accessories. “It helps you put your mixture together and look edgy. It’s like going to the East Village in New York.” THE CONTEMPORARY CONUNDRUM But conversely, as more mainstream retailers look to add alternative pieces to their offerings, it becomes harder for those companies to stay true to their roots. “I think business is just tough out there,” said Drew Vernstein, president and chief executive officer of Lip Service, the Los Angeles-based manufacturer considered to be one of the granddaddies of Goth- and fetish- wear. “There’s a lot of players now, and the look that Lip Service pioneered [has become] very mainstream.” Companies such as Lip Service now cater both to the fashionable fetishists as well as their core lifestyle customers. Vernstein, who sells to 400 specialty retailers, also manufac- tures for Hot Topic, the City of Industry, Calif.- based trendy teen chain. The chain sells a toned-down version of Lip Service’s designs made just for Hot Topic, and has brought the look into the mainstream. This is both good and bad for Vernstein, who said that increased competition from other companies has kept him on his toes. Hot Topic is considered by Vernstein to be the sartorial version of training wheels for teens who will eventually graduate into the more hard-core punk- and fetishwear bou- tiques. “The problem is that Hot Topic grew big and took that look into malls, which eroded the boutique stores,” he said. “The good thing is that Hot Topic’s customer is younger than in the boutiques.” Lip Service’s wholesale prices range from about $25 up to $200, and Vernstein said that business has been mostly flat, with low-double-digit growth. One challenge he hasn’t had to deal with is the end of quotas. Until recently, most of the products were manufactured in the United States. Now, he is doing more production in China, but said that it hasn’t been an issue. “It seems like quota is much more of an issue for people doing super- massive quantities,” said Vernstein. “We find an agent, and they have the whole quota thing worked out.” MAGIC’s spokeswoman agreed that for the bulk of the edge’s exhibitors, quotas are a non-issue, primarily because they typically produce smaller quantities. Also, the focus is less on the dollar than staying true to the lifestyle, art, music and political issues of the day — particularly in a pres- idential election year. “[The election year] will just give them more ammu- nition for their sense of humor,” she said. “They’re always really on top of what’s going on, and we’ve been careful to keep the companies in there who belong in there so they don’t feel the pressure to conform in this Lip Service’s cotton top very corporate setting.” and cotton and lace skirt. Continued on page 38 TRIPP/MEOW/ANARCHTEE/LIP SERVICE PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY SERVICE TRIPP/MEOW/ANARCHTEE/LIP

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WWDMAGIC THE EDGE crossing over

Continued from page 36 NEW KID IN TOWN ▲ Tripp NY’s cotton knit shirt. Meow Design’s For newcomers like Scott Hebert, owner and designer of Tucson, cotton top Ariz.-based Brooklynallstars, it’s the perfect atmosphere to ease and skirt. into the business. Hebert is a graduate of the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles and will be exhibiting at the edge for the first time. He said that he’s mainly going for the exposure. Hebert, who explained his style as an amalgam of other styles, said that his line is best described as “hip-hop-meets- Goth-meets-contemporary.” “The edge is for people who don’t stick with the norm,” said Hebert. “They decided to throw me in there because they said I sounded kind of different.” The designer, who is already getting e-mails from distribu- tors in Japan interested in selling the T-shirts, polos, skirts, cuffs and hats that he offers, said that he would be happy to come away from the show with a few new accounts. “I’d love to get a few stores and get a few international accounts,” said Hebert. “I definitely want to make a good impression there.” Store owners such as Kitson’s Ross are on the prowl for exactly these types of young, undiscovered companies. “We’re totally into finding someone new, we’re not into finding what anyone else has,” said Ross. A SOFTER EDGE For Andre Burgos, owner of Gargoyles boutique in New Orleans’ French Quarter, the key to staying afloat post-9/11 was actually to tone down the offerings at his store to reach the customers that were not so niche. “We were more leather and Gothic, and we [switched and] went to more club and streetwear,” said Burgos. “Now we have a better-quality customer of all ages.” Kitson’s Ross agreed that it’s a delicate balance between choosing pieces that are edgy enough to appeal and those that will alienate. “Everyone wants to stay young, but [the edge] is sometimes too young, and that can be a problem,” he said. “They have to make it more commercial than far out.” Paul Frank got his start at the edge, and MAGIC officials said it’s important for emerging brands to have a trade show venue as well. “But when they go on to another level and [reach] a different distribution, we move them out,” said a spokeswoman. So with all of the more mainstream retailers now shopping the edge, does this mean that it’s no longer, well, edgy? Said the spokeswoman, “It’s still edgy and staying true [to its concept]. If anything, it shows how retailers are going outside the box.”

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WWDMAGIC SPORTSWEAR & DRESSES dressing boom Despite lingering doubts, sportswear and dress vendors are planning for growth.

By Rusty Williamson Vendors are making cautious growth plans by offering a broader assortment of products, including new styles and A RETAIL REBOUND AND A RECOVERING ECONOMY ARE HELPING TO PUT new categories, stepping up the fashion quotient with sportswear and dress firms in a more optimistic mood, despite concerns about the im- trendier collections to appeal to misses’ customers who pending election, ongoing war and a constant push to stand apart from the competition. crave a contemporary edge and revving up customer serv- ice with a diverse range of marketing tactics, such as color- ful catalogue-style line sheets, Internet initiatives and Tori Richard’s floral silk and intensified customer service programs. spandex dress. Right: Patricia Wolf’s brown suede jacket and SORTING THINGS OUT polyester and Lycra spandex top. Broader assortments are helping designers branch out and target specific customers. “You need a highly diverse prod- uct line to grow and focus on different niches within the com- pany and fully service a diverse marketplace. We continue to grow the line each year with a collection that can dress a woman for work, a cruise or a New Year’s Eve party,” said Jeff Belluck, regional sales manager at Joseph Ribkoff, a Los Angeles-based dress and sportswear company that is planning sales volume gains of at least 10 percent in 2005. Wholesale prices range from $39 for a top to $160 for a three-piece dressy ensemble. At Nina Austin, a formalwear company based in City of Industry, Calif., giving cus- tomers a choice is a key part of the growth strategy. “We’re offering a range of new styles for spring to appeal to a broader range of women, from age 20 to 55 and up. We believe in a diverse product range and catering to niche needs of women, from prom dresses to contemporary mother- of-the-bride,” said Sahar Rokhsar, principal. “We have at least five groups within each seasonal collection. It’s one of the ways we’re growing business.” Wholesale prices for the line range from $79 to $139. At Von Saken, a Los Angeles-based sportswear firm, growth is all about giving customers a fresh crop of looks each season. “We’re always adding to the line, and for spring the newness includes more knits, including scarves, more cut-and-sew styles and adding accessories such as pendants to our sweaters,” said Joel Martinez, sales manager. “Newness is a way to excite buyers and bring energy to the collection.” FINDING THE FASHION EDGE Muse, the New York-based dressmaker, plans to boost business this spring by closely following the fashion trend toward feminine dressing. “For spring, we’re doing more jacket dresses and styles that are younger and hipper, such as halter dresses with built-in bra cups,” said Kathleen Kelly, designer. “Women really want to stand out and seem to be getting tired of overly casual styles. They want to look pretty, and we’re continuing to respond. We’re even adding pendants and jeweled embellishments to some of the dresses for a really complete look.” Wholesale prices for the spring collec- tion range from $78 for a jacket to $150 for a jacket and dress ensemble. Color and luxurious fabrics are key to keep- ing trend-conscious customers happy at Nina Austin. “Women are really asking for more color, and we’ve expanded our palette to include a wider range of brights. We’re also using more sophisticated fabrics, including silk burnouts and rayon georgette,” said Rokhsar. Even the decidedly less dressy Nomadic Traders, a resortwear specialist in Berkeley, Calif., is upping its fashion quotient with a more vibrant color palette; updated trendy prints such as batiks, embroidery and beading, and sophisticated fabrics such as silk georgette, silk and linen in fashion prints, explained Len Shemin, co-owner with his wife, Anna Shemin. Wholesale prices range from $17 for a tank top to $47 for an embellished dress. Continued on page 42 PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY With SAS, the leader in business intelligence software, and Marketmax, a division of SAS, the leader in merchandise intelligence… Imagine always knowing your customer’s next move. Then stop imagining.

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WWDMAGIC SPORTSWEAR & DRESSES dressing boom

Continued from page 40 MARKETING MANEUVERS Apart from their designs, vendors are also reaching out to new business with wholesale expansion into new domestic and international markets, Internet ini- tiatives and compelling marketing collateral such as colorful catalogues and user-friendly line sheets. InGauge Design Group, a New York-based moderate and better sportswear, related separates and dress company that launched in August 2003, is expand- ing with an intensified wholesale outreach across the United States, with showrooms in all major regional markets, said Uri Israel, co-owner of the company. InGauge also has a new Web site, which its sales reps use as a selling tool. The site includes virtual line sheets that reps can show retail buyers, as well as order forms that can be completed online and zapped to the fulfillment source, enabling speedy delivery to retailers. InGauge produces under four labels: La Vie Boheme (fashion-forward casual sportswear), Modern Curves (updated misses’ casualwear aimed at women over 35), Prima Bella (trend and novelty fine-gauge rayon sportswear) and M.T.W.T. 9-5 (career-related separates). Wholesale prices for the most part range from $28 to $69. Von Saken is another firm looking to cover the regional markets. “We’re always looking to find new accounts and expose our collections to more stores by expanding into new wholesale territories. We just opened in Atlanta and are currently looking for a Midwest representative,” Martinez said. Joseph Ribkoff has sales forces in Europe, Asia and elsewhere worldwide, a presence Belluck said is key to delivering solid cus- tomer service. “We’re always open and looking for new territo- ries for expansion. Staying in tune with stores’ needs is para- mount to our growth,” Belluck explained. “We are seeing very strong increases, thanks in part to our intense approach to cus- tomer service, whether we’re dealing with a single-unit store or a multiple-unit specialty chain.”

Ravel’s cotton and spandex shirt.

Berek’s rayon and cotton sweater with ribbon bow.

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WWDMAGIC THEGALLERY collectors’ items Do women want pieces or outfits? The debate continues for vendors in thegallery.

By Evan Clark IN ADDITION TO MARKETING DIVERSE COLLECTIONS, THE 10 OR SO vendors in “thegallery,” a pavilion situated in the sportswear and dress category at WWDMAGIC, each have their own business flair. Some are offering consumers full collections while others are slanted toward items. However, each vendor is retaining a laser focus on the styling of its goods and, for the many who have moved manufactur- ing overseas, on managing faraway production. COLLECTIONS VS. ITEMS Just as the fashion pendulum swings from more casual to dressy and back again, so do consumers’ appetites for entire looks versus that perfect item to spice up their wardrobe. But vendors looking to stay ahead of the curve see the consumer headed in dif- ferent directions on this. Or perhaps it’s that consumers are looking to different lines for different things. “I’m seeing a return to outfits — people wanting to buy three, four, five pieces that intermix,” said vendor and retailer Judy Phillips. “You can item them to death.” Phillips operates 10 J. Phillips better specialty stores and is co-owner of Spanner USA, which distributes the Canadian-designed sportswear line of the same name in the United States. “I have a pretty affluent customer base that’s pretty savvy and pretty trendy,” she added. There are some who feel differently, though. “The market’s very item-driven and that’s where we’re going,” said Laurie Ratner, national sales manager for the Alberto Makali tops division. “It’s not about suits anymore. It’s not about collections. It’s really more item-y. “I hear from my retailers that customers come in and they’re just browsing and they’re not looking for anything specific,” she said, noting the customer ends up picking up one item. “I don’t think they’re shopping for collections anymore. They’re just updating their wardrobe.” THE OTHER SIDE OF THE WORLD On the glitzy front end of the business, hot trends strut down a runway that stretches from Milan and Paris to New York and Los Angeles, but the back end of the busi- ness, production and sourcing, has also become a global enterprise, with much of the action happening in Asia, half a world away from the showrooms. With lower labor costs, huge capacity and improving quality in the Far East, most firms have moved at least some production to the continent and have had to figure out how to make the long-distance relationship work. Ted Dziena, vice president of U.S. sales for contemporary firm Conrad C, said the firm does about 60 percent of its production in Asia, a percentage that has increased lately. “We’re implementing better systems within the company to have better quality control as well as more hands-on people to watch our business overseas,” he said. “You have to have that or else you’re really putting your life in someone else’s hands. When you’re here and everything’s being done over there, you have to have eyes and ears over there.” INCREASED EXPOSURE Muse Apparel’s silk halter dress. Citrine, a Montreal-based marketer of dresses and related separates, wants to get its name into the minds of consumers — and generate a 20 percent sales increase. In addition to the consumer marketing effort, the company is also solidifying “Citrine’s media budget for 2005 is $1 million,” said Mitchell Hops, chief exec- the brand image it presents to buyers, relocating to a new showroom in New York. utive officer of J.S. Group, which owns the name. “We will be placing ads on taxi- “Citrine has moved to the new showroom to create a home that is more reflec- cab tops and bus shelters and in national and international magazines. The tive of the attitude of the collection, which is to dress the modern, fashion-forward Citrine brand is in constant growth.” woman,” he said. “The showroom’s clean lines and modern looks reinforce this feeling, along with giving additional space to house the growing collection.” Citrine’s lilac halter dress. The showroom is also designed to make buyers’ lives easier, with space to relax, check e-mails and make phone calls. THE BOTTOM LINE Sales and marketing and sourcing are all vital elements for any manufacturer, but the bottom line for fashion vendors really is the appeal of their product. “Our business this past spring has been the best it’s been in probably the last eight years,” said Matt Sirota, division president at better dress firm Maggy London. Sirota owed much of that success to the product. “We’ve been very on-trend this season with our colors and our classifications,” he said, adding that feminine suit- ing was a particular success. No matter how great a look, though, one hit does not a fashion empire make, so the secret is not just being on-trend, but also being diversified. Sirota described the dress firm as two-dimensional, going after an updated, classic customer with Maggy London, which has an average wholesale price of $64, and a more modern clientele with London Times, which wholesales for $29 to $44. Retailers have also become more demanding, while retaining a willing- ness to spend more for a product if it helps set them apart and satisfies their shoppers. Donna Morgan, fashion director of her signature dress line, said department stores have become more particular as of late. “They’re really looking to update and to offer the customer a little bit more interesting variety,” she said. “There seems to be a little less emphasis on price and a little more on quality and having the right trends.” MUSE PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE MUSE PHOTO BY

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WWDMAGIC OUTERWEAR Jean Guise’s leather jacket by Tanatar the red coats American Corp. are coming Color and other innovative tanning techniques are driving a competitive outerwear market.

By Kavita Daswani BLACK LEATHER JACKETS ARE OUT, AND INNOVATIVE TANNING processes are in. So say exhibitors in the outerwear category at MAGIC, who maintain that the brilliant colors and textures that are being seen in the rest of the fashion main- stream have crossed over into the realm of outerwear, and that cutting-edge innovations only help the bottom line. “Black leather jackets are dead,” said Jeff Adler, senior vice president of Adler Leather, a 50-year-old company based in Sylmar, Calif. “In the past, if you were sitting with inventory in just black, it was worth gold. Today, it’s almost worthless. It’s not what the consumer is looking for, and retailers know that.” Because outerwear as a category has become so competitive in recent years — with not just an increasing number of companies joining the fray, but also big fashion brands producing large volumes of shearling coats and fur-lined parkas — vendors said the only way to stay ahead is to provide a luxurious look at an accessible price point, and continue to create new tanning processes for leather. HIDE AND SEEK “You have to have a keen eye for leather skin trends,” said Adler. “Styles will always be more or less the same, so the key is to always find the cutting-edge tanning process.” This year, that happens to be marbleizing, a technique whereby leathers are given a two-tone look. That, and putting out things like junior-inspired rabbit coats in shades of pink and red that wholesale at $49, have helped Adler Leathers achieve a 20 percent growth in sales in what is otherwise seen as a lackluster year for the industry. “Retailers want quality, and are not interested in those cheap furs that lose hair,” said Jun Li, owner of Los Angeles-based Funky East Design Inc. “Also, a variety of color is important — bright green, pinks, light coffee. As long as we give retailers color, in furs like fox and rabbit, business is great.” The Funky East collection wholesales from $165 to $1,100; Li said she manages to keep costs down by using European fur but doing the dyeing and bleaching in China, to create “American, do as few as 10 pieces in a particular style. She follows the ladylike styles” at reasonable prices. trends — fox fur and some mink in fashion colors like red, pump- kin, pink and beige for the upcoming season — but keeps prices AN EARLY WINTER accessible at $100 to $250 wholesale. Linda Richards, president of the eponymous New York-based coat maker, said heightened competition simply means having to HOT SELLERS accelerate the whole process. Some vendors are seeing sales spike in unlikely places, such “[For] anyone who has merchandise in their stores early, it’s as Orange County in California. going to sell,” she said. “The better customer is already shopping “We’re bouncing off a brilliant year so far, and have already in advance of the season.” been getting reorders, even if the season has only just begun,” Richards said most of the production of her line — which said Peter Jacobson, president of L.A.-based Creative wholesales from $209 to $740 — is done in the United States, Concepts, which represents top French brand Rizal in the Italy and South America, the latter of which she describes as United States. “an up-and-coming territory” for fur and leather production. “The reorders have ranged from Orange County to “People want luxury fibers,” she said. “Wool alone is not the mountaintops [in the] off-season, so we’re quite good enough anymore, and it has to be infused with cashmere, excited about the current season.” angora, llama, alpaca — something luxurious and interesting.” He attributed his solid business to the fact that “the Richards predicted a major trend developing out of better product always sells,” citing a year-over-year upholstery-weight tapestries and jacquards. increase of about 30 percent in sales in recent years. “Coats are becoming more and more of an accessory,” However, he also said that it was crucial to stay a she said. “The trench made such a big impact for spring, and step ahead of the trends. I just feel that now people expect more of a spring coat — “Our fall line will have all the latest trends: and we have to give them something new and exciting.” leopard, fun fur colors like pinks and baby For fall, Richards is going heavily into luxury with rich blues, and lots of white throughout,” he said. fabrics, fur trims and lots of cashmere. “As a coat manu- The entirely French-made line doesn’t come facturer in the better/bridge category, I feel like we have cheap: While leather and suede coats for to be the innovator. In Europe, we’ve been seeing some spring range at wholesale from $100 to $250, printed trenchcoats, which I think we’ll start seeing his top-of-the-line Astrakhan and mink furs here. We’ve just introduced a jacquard paisley Lurex are priced at wholesale between $700 and outerwear piece. We’ve taken the trench, which was $5,000. so important for spring and fall, and given it a “Business has been good, and it looks like November delivery,” she said. “Those coat depart- this year is promising, but the market is get- ments need an injection in November and December.” ting competitive,” said Candan Yurdakul, vice Other vendors are aiming for a different con- president of New York-based coat maker sumer; they say it’s all about knowing who your cus- Tanatar. “Every day, more people are getting tomer is. Alice Jim, president of New York-based into the category.” Prodi International Inc., said her business works Yurdakul said his collection is made in Turkey and is focused pri- because she keeps minimum orders extremely low, marily on lightweight shearlings in beige and earth tones, as well as keeps prices reasonable and focuses on volume of out- slim-fitting silhouettes. His collection, which he sells under private put. Her factory in China’s Hubei province, with its 1,000 label to department stores, wholesales for between $700 and $800. employees, can produce some 400,000 jackets a year. He agreed that red appears to be a standout color for the season. “We have our own designers, and because we have Autumn “I think you have to stick to your quality, and keep the products our own production facility, even small orders are fine,” Shearlings’ as high-end as possible,” he said. “If the customer appreciates she said, adding that she has occasionally been asked to perforated the quality, they’ll keep coming back.” suede jacket. PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY For more information, please contact Karyn Schneider at United Media • 200 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10016 • Phone 212-293-8667 Fax 212-293-8550 Come see us at MAGIC, Jem Booth #15206 48 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

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WWDMAGIC RESORT/SWIMWEAR holiday cheer An uptick in Americans’ vacation travel has been good for the swim and resortwear business.

By Kristin Larson Skechers’ nylon and COMING OFF A STRONG FALL SELLING SEASON, RESORT AND spandex bikini for swimwear companies from Warnaco and XOXO to Michael Simon and Christina America. flip-flops maker Havaianas maintain bright outlooks for the upcoming resort and spring seasons. Companies said that despite the war, the upcoming presidential election and concerns relating to the euro, con- sumers are traveling and buying vacation clothing. Indeed, 68 percent of United States adults traveled for business or pleasure last year, according to the Travel Industry Association of America, which also expects leisure travel to grow by 3 to 4 percent this summer. Manufacturers expect this positive momentum to continue and are upbeat about their prospects. “We feel extremely optimistic about the 2005 season,” said Lana Todorovich, vice president of branded sales at Warnaco Swimwear, which includes Anne Cole, Anne Cole Locker, Nautica, Choice Calvin Klein, Cole of California and the newly launched Anne Cole Studio. Next July, the company also plans to launch Michael Kors for the 2006 cruise season. “There are two reasons for our optimism: We are coming off a successful season, and our retail performance is strong. The number one retailing style in the country was the Anne Cole dot camikini. It was a top performer the minute we shipped it in November, and we continued shipping it through June.” HIGH HOPES Banking on the success of the camikini, Todorovich said the company will feature similar styles at Anne Cole for 2005. “We’re coming off a very big success,” she added. “On the NPD report, we had six out of 10 top- performing styles for spring ’04, and that’s current retail sales.” A second priority at Warnaco, Todorovich said, is to work on man- aging each brand and to maintain focus and differentiation between diverse product categories. “We are a diversified company, and I like to think of us as a swimwear mutual fund,” she said. “We were top- performing last year because of the talented and innovative people working at the company and our business strategies. I believe we’re ready and poised for growth.” Echoing that upbeat vibe, U.S. Gottex president Linda Sassoon said Gottex is also positioned well for 2005, and the company has high hopes for the next cruise and spring season, she noted. “We’re seeing significant increases of anywhere from 25 to 50 percent on the opening cruise orders,” Sassoon said. “People are traveling, and there’s no indication that people are reacting to terrorist threats and the economy.” In terms of its swimwear collection, Sassoon said the company has gotten a great reaction to the collec- tion and that it’s being reflected in the orders. “I’d say we’ll end up about 20 to 25 percent ahead this season,” Sassoon said of Gottex, which has a strong presence at retail in the Southeast, on the West Coast and in the Northeast. “It’s going to be a healthy increase over last year, and it’s a func- Havaianas’ tion of the product. People are starting to see plastic that business is turning around. People are getting flip-flops. back to their earlier routines of travel. We’re looking to be in a very good position now.” Sassoon added that, at WWDMAGIC, the compa- ny would like to open some new accounts and is focused on new specialty store accounts that might be adding swimwear to their assortments. NOVEL IDEAS Following a business transition that commingled swimwear with its sportswear collection, things look positive now for Michael Simon. “Two years ago, we had a fantastic, novel swim collection, and today’s chal- lenge is that you just need more of that,” said designer Michael Simon. “Swim has been injected into our clothing collection, and we’re offering swim, but now it works together with the collection sportswear.” Simon said that his product tends to be a fun impulse buy that doesn’t seem to be affected much by bigger, weightier issues such as the economy, elections or the euro. He expects 2005 growth of at least 20 percent over the company’s current $25 million in sales. Continued on page 50 PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY Your bottom line requires superior global transportation

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WWDMAGIC RESORT/SWIMWEAR holiday cheer

Continued from page 48 “Business now is good,” Simon said. “As a company, we’re much more updated. If you’re going to swim the English Channel, don’t bother with our swimwear. At the pool and afterward, that’s where we come in.” Simon said his goal for WWDMAGIC is to show the full collection, and by doing that, he believes the product will sell itself. “I have no money goal [for the show],” he said. “We are targeting bou- tiques, though.” Havaianas public relations and marketing manager Angela Schutt said the company is expecting to have a great turnout at WWDMAGIC. It’s the first time the company is exhibit- ing at the show, and the brand hopes to increase business and expand the line into more chil- dren’s retail locations. Havaianas, which means “Hawaiian” in Portuguese, was founded in Brazil in 1962. The company has seen a positive sales streak for 2004 and expects the same upbeat trend to continue into resort and spring. “There is a following for the brand, and it’s really taken off the past year,” said Schutt. “In the XOXO’s nylon and past, flip-flops were worn pretty much on the beach, and now they’ve made the crossover to city spandex bikini for streets and have become a necessity in your closet. Since the brand features a diverse color palette, Christina America. people are buying them in multiple pairs to match all their outfits.” STORMING THE BEACH A bright forecast for resort and spring is also on the menu at XOXO, whose sell-throughs have been “well above average,” said Kitty Blincoe, creative director of the brand. “The regular sell-throughs are 3 to 4 percent, and we were selling at 10 to 13 per- cent,” Blincoe said. The company has two swimwear lines now, one a bit younger and the other a bit more sophisticated. Blincoe said the company decided to feature two different lines in order to attract more department store business. “Right now our business has increased since last year significantly,” she said. “We’re looking forward to maintaining our specialty and boutique business and reclaiming our place in the department store world. I think business will be good, and the reaction has been strong for spring ’05; I would say we’ll proba- bly do at least a 20 percent increase.” At Oleg Cassini Sport, vice president of sales and merchandising Amy Kahn expects business to increase from $25 million in estimated sales for 2004 to $100 million in estimated sales for 2005. “Detail-driven, colorful items are what our consumers want,” said Kahn, “And more and more women are looking for easy-care casual clothing with an updated look.”

Hatley’s kitty print cotton pajamas.

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WWDMAGIC CASUAL LIFESTYLE

Usindo’s rayon Oleg Cassini’s Non Fiction’s skirt and rayon cotton tank cotton top and Lycra and cotton and pants. spandex top. terry skirt.

not-so-easy living Inspiring growth in the casual market is serious business for vendors.

By Evan Clark Nina Tolentino, president and designer of A Touch of Class Clothing, a con- temporary casualwear vendor, places great importance on “taking care of your VENDORS IN THE CASUAL LIFESTYLE SECTION AT WWDMAGIC MIGHT BE customers on a one-to-one basis.” selling clothes with laid-back styling, but they take their businesses seriously. That personal touch, plus prompt deliveries, are key to building a lasting rela- Many are zeroing in on customer service, hoping to grow by treating their cus- tionship, she said. tomers right. This focus is also aiding some with their expansion to larger chain Treating the retail customer well also means ensuring the quality of the goods stores, which often require more attention than the local mom-and-pop boutique. being shipped. Others are also expanding with new product categories. “We don’t just take the merchandise from the hanger and dump it in a box and Pricing, too, continues to be an issue, with companies taking advantage of low- send it on to our customers,” she said. cost labor and production overseas. Tolentino also looks to get a leg up by being ready to meet retailers’ orders. “We cut the goods, even if it’s a new style, before we market it,” she said. “If I SERVICE WITH A SMILE go to MAGIC and write the orders, my staff can ship tomorrow. There are going to The clothes might be the most vital part of the fashion business, but given the com- be a lot of customers who want merchandise now.” petitive environment, customer service is another pillar that many firms lean on Needle & Threads, a novelty knit and related sportswear firm, has had to ramp for an added advantage. Continued on page 54 PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY

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WWDMAGIC CASUAL LIFESTYLE not-so-easy living

Continued from page 52 that they’ve grown to love,” said Martin Klein, executive vice president of sales for up its customer service as it expands, said sales executive Stewart Fruman. Kaktus Inc., a related separates, activewear and misses’ firm. “From a computerization standpoint, we’ve introduced new programs in the sys- “We’ve actually brought pricing down because of the fact that we’re taking advan- tem,” he said. tage of where we produce overseas and passing it on to the consumer,” he said. The applications give the sales force access to more information about orders to Kaktus produces its goods in eight Asian countries and sells its tops and bottoms answer customers’ questions more efficiently. “They have much better control of at average wholesale prices of $8 to $15. what they’re doing,” Fruman said. Deanna Farrell, owner of Deanna Farrell Designs, which markets Cha Cha san- dals and casual resortwear, said she was trimming back her prices. For instance, a THE PRICING GAME camisole dress wholesales for about $19, while a rayon poncho goes for as low as Giants like Liz Claiborne Inc. and Kellwood Co. have leveraged huge investments in $9.50. “My price points were $2 to $3 more per item,” she said. “In order to reflect a technology and global supply chains to reduce prices, forcing smaller firms to sharpen more moderate price point, I shopped for better production abilities that were able their prices as well. to give me a better quality, but at a more reasonable price,” said Farrell. “We’re giving back to the consumer, through the retailer, the lower price points All of the firm’s production is done in Indonesia.

Rico Hand Knits’ cotton wrap top.

Aurora Coat

NATURAL. AUTHENTIC. WOOLRICH.

Visit us online at www.woolrich.com. Or call 1-800-995-1299, ext. 660 for a dealer representative in your area. WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 55

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“The market today is a lot more competitive. The big discount stores and the definitely will buy things that are unique, less basic,” she said. department stores are constantly on sale, and I sell to a lot of specialty boutique Icelandic is also continuing its push into more versatile year-round fibers. shops and surf shops,” she said. “It’s very key for a specialty store to be able to shop Tsonga, a shoe firm that’s showing at WWDMAGIC, is expanding as well — into the market and find things at a price that they can bring in and do a nice markup on handbags and apparel stores. and still have things that are different from the department stores.” “We launched a line of handbags this month, which is what a lot of our customers Mark Wexler, vice president of sales for India Bali Imports, noted that the market have been asking for,” said Claire Lindsay, president. Tsonga specializes in fashion- was squeezing more fashion into the lower-priced arena. able but comfortable shoes. “I see better fashions coming in at moderate price points,” he said. “Price is still Last year, the company began marketing its goods to apparel stores and has going to be important; people are still looking for value.” tripled its apparel customers each season, Lindsay said. Expanding beyond specialty stores into some larger doors has been a good move STRETCHING OUT for Needle & Threads, said Fruman. Vendors at WWDMAGIC are also looking to expand by attracting new customers. “We’ve branched out into moderate department stores,” he explained. “It’s “We are looking to new channels, looking to broaden our horizons beyond the worked out very well.” After just a year, the move has helped the firm nearly triple market niche we carved out for ourselves,” said Kristin Quigley, vice president of its volume. sweater firm Icelandic Design. Working with bigger, more demanding retailers, though, required some additional The firm, which has a specialty-store base, is looking to move into catalogues and effort. That’s why the firm has beefed up its customer service. more sports and outdoor stores. “To get them is so difficult. Losing them is so easy,” said Fruman of the depart- “The consumer is being choosy about where she’s going to spend her dollars, but ment stores.

Women’s Career and Casual Sportswear for Urban Living

CORPORATE HEADQUARTERS: COLLECTION CONRAD C INC. 9320 St. Laurent Blvd., #200 Montreal, QC H2N 1N7 Canada Tel: 514.385.9599 (U.S.A.) 1.800.561.4416 www.conradc.com

NEW YORK TED DZIENA 485 7th Avenue, #406 New York, NY 10018 Tel: 212.967.8181

DALLAS RAY RAK Tel: 214.749.4810 Cell: 214.914.1111

ATLANTA JEFFREY SCHECHTER Tel: 404.577.4717

MID ATLANTIC REGION BUTLER COHEN ASSOCIATES Tel: 856.429.2502 Cell: 856.287.4447

MID WEST THOMAS J. SLADKY Tel: 563.556.0864 Cell: 312.543.9486 56 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

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WWDMAGIC CALENDAR the magic marketplace An insider’s guide to the ins and outs of MAGIC.

REGISTRATION HOURS Aug. 30–Sept. 1: 7:30 a.m.–6 p.m. Sept. 2: 7:30 a.m.–12 p.m.

EXHIBIT HOURS Aug. 30–Sept. 1: 8 a.m.–6 p.m.* Sept. 2: 8 a.m.–4 p.m.* *the edge opens at 9 a.m. daily

VENUES MAGIC Men’s apparel and accessories Central and South Halls

WWDMAGIC Women’s apparel and accessories North Hall

MAGIC kids Children’s apparel and accessories South Hall, Level 1

fabric@MAGIC Domestic and international fabric and trim South Hall, Level 1

the edge Alternative trends and lifestyle South Hall, Level 2

SHOW OFFICES • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N251 • South Hall, Concourse, Room MS219

FOOD SERVICES Complimentary Continental 40 YEARS AND STILL IN FASHION Breakfast • Served daily in the Grand Lobby, Central Hallway and South Hall. Some classics were meant to last… The Woolmark trademark is one of the most Sponsored by PJ Salvage. globally recognized symbols of our time, and it’s now 40 years since it was introduced as the international symbol representing garments made from Pure New Wool. Special Lunch Program The Woolmark Company works with leading manufacturers, brands and retailers the $5 lunches will be avail- world over to ensure that the Woolmark still stands for everything it did back then - able to exhibitors and Quality and Excellence in Wool. retailers at designated NY Office 1-646-756-2535 locations within the exhibit halls.

www.woolmark.com TRANSPORTATION MAGIC Express WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 57

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Intra-Venue Shuttle Service tours of the show floor and translation serv- Monday, Aug. 30, 7–11 p.m.: Shimmer Complimentary shuttle service between ices in Korean and Mandarin Chinese for MAGIC International and Lycra present an show halls. retailers and vendors, as well as news on opening night charity event, with special • Aug. 30–Sept. 1: 8 a.m.–6:30 p.m. trade legislation initiatives, technology, soft- musical guests Maroon 5. Tickets: $60. All • Sept. 2: 8 a.m.–4 p.m. ware and more. proceeds benefit the Partnership Against • South Hall, Level 1 Child Abuse. All-white attire suggested. For Gold Lot Shuttle Service tickets or information, call 218-723-9792, visit Transportation available between the EVENTS MAGIConline.com or stop by the Will Call Central Hall and the Gold parking lot. Sunday, Aug. 29, 8 a.m.: desk located in the Grand Lobby. • Aug. 30–Sept. 1: 8 a.m.–6:30 p.m. MAGIC International President’s Club • Poolside at the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino • Sept. 2: 8 a.m.–4 p.m. Golf Invitational MAGIC International and Walters Golf pres- Tuesday, Aug. 31 Hotel Shuttle Service ent this invitation-only event, held at Bali 9 p.m.–2 a.m.: Community Available between select hotels and the Hai Golf Club with an 8 a.m. shotgun start. MAGIC International and Hoop Dreams LVCC. For more information, call 818-227-4126. Sportswear present Community with special • Aug. 30–Sept. 1: 7:30 a.m.–6:30 p.m.* • Bali Hai Golf Club guests Guru, with DJ Doo Wop, Slum • Sept. 2: 7:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m.* Continued on page 58 * Shuttle service ceases 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.

Airport Shuttle Service Hourly trips from the convention center to McCarran Airport. • Sept. 2: 9 a.m.–5 p.m.

SHOW AMENITIES Buyer Resource Center Staffed by the MAGIC Women’s Career and Casual Sportswear Retail Relations team, for Urban Living this new addition helps buyers shop the show floor. • Grand Lobby

International Business Center International guests can register, network and speak with representa- tives from the U.S. De- partment of Commerce. Attendees and exhibitors can convey their interest in conducting business in other countries. Translation services available . • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N258

Prayer Room A quiet place for spiritual reflection and meditation. Aug. 30–Sept. 2: 6:30 a.m.-6 p.m. • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N264

President’s Club Lounge, sponsored by Walters Golf Attendees can relax or conduct meetings in the lounge and enjoy compli- mentary buffets and busi- ness services. • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N250

Press Club Members of the media can register for the show, file CORPORATE NEW YORK ATLANTA MID WEST stories, gather exhibitor HEADQUARTERS: TED DZIENA JEFFREY SCHECHTER THOMAS J. SLADKY th information and dine. COLLECTION CONRAD C INC. 485 7 Avenue, #406 Tel: 404.577.4717 Tel: 563.556.0864 9320 St. Laurent Blvd., #200 New York, NY 10018 Cell: 312.543.9486 • North Hall, Mezzanine, Montreal, QC Tel: 212.967.8181 MID ATLANTIC REGION Room N255 H2N 1N7 Canada BUTLER COHEN ASSOCIATES Tel: 514.385.9599 DALLAS Tel: 856.429.2502 Sourcing Zone Hub (U.S.A.) 1.800.561.4416 RAY RAK Cell: 856.287.4447 This is a new resource www.conradc.com Tel: 214.749.4810 that offers exhibitor and Cell: 214.914.1111 seminar information, 58 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

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Continued from page 57 Village, The Pharcyde and F.I.L.T.H.E.E. information, visit MAGIConline.com. The WWDMAGIC Accessory Design Series Immigrants. Sponsored by Hoop Dreams • Rain at the Palms Hotel & Casino • North Hall Lobby Sportswear, Rock the Vote, Rehab Records, Red Bull, Boost Mobile, Earth Tones SPECIAL FEATURES eBay Information Kiosks Trading Co., Mixwell USA and the Palms The WWDMAGIC Mannequin Trend Exhibit Visit eBay’s kiosks or attend one of its semi- Hotel & Casino. Admission is limited; early • North Hall Lobby nars for everything you need to become a arrival is strongly recommended. For more successful eBay seller. • Grand Lobby and Room N263

Vespa Giveaway Wish Licensing and The Crystal Group present three one-of-a kind The World’s Largest Garment and Textile Sourcing Show themed Vespas, sponsored Las Vegas Hilton • Aug. 29 - Sept. 1, 2004 by DIC Entertainment (Strawberry Shortcake), Hasbro Inc. (Twister) and VespaUSA. Each custom- designed bike will be showcased at the MAGIC main entrance. A Vespa ET2 will be given away to three different registered buyers who enter the sweepstakes. All entries must be completed by 10 a.m. Wednesday, Sept. 1; the drawing will be held on the Grand Lobby Stage Featuring 300+ full-package apparel factories from over 45 countries at 3:15 p.m. that after- noon. • Grand Lobby Stage

Academy of Art University Graduate Fashion Design Display View works from San Francisco’s Academy of Art University Graduate Fashion Show 2004, held in May. Pakistan featured as Focus Country • North Hall, Level 1

Experience the strength of Pakistan’s apparel production Escase Hole-in-One Contest Shoot for a hole-in-one in a golf simulator for a chance to win a Chrysler Crossfire at the Escase booth (CA5747) in the T: 626.636.2530 Casual Lifestyle area. Bringing the F: 626.636.2536 • Central Hall, Casual Lifestyle E: [email protected] 24 Seven World to You Visit the 24 Seven booth to learn about this staffing resource for the fashion and retail industries. Enter to win a green iPod REGISTER ONLINE NOW Mini and fill out a quick survey for a $5 Starbucks www.asapshow.com card. • Grand Lobby

PRODUCED BY CYBER MERCHANTS EXCHANGE SHOW LOUNGES An OTCBB listed company, ticker symbol “CMEE”. Copyright reserved 2003 Disney Lounges Located on the show floor, 4349 Baldwin Ave. #A, El Monte, CA 91731 each Disney lounge will feature distinct themed WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 59

WWW.WWD.COM environments. In the Grand Lobby of the Aug. 30-Sept. 1: 11 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. SEMINARS LVCC, see the new collaboration between Sept. 2: 11 a.m. Monday, Aug. 30 Disney and Harley Davidson. The front en- • Grand Lobby 10 a.m.: Globalization in the trance of the North Hall will feature Disney Fashion Industry SNAP watches. In the South Hall, within the MAGIC Presents StyleFile Spring 2005 Presented by Cherish International. Hosted Active Lifestyle category of MAGIC, Disney Aug. 30-Sept. 2: 12:30 p.m. by Victor Kim, Cherish International and returns with the latest Vintage Mickey fash- • Grand Lobby Greg Lorber, Lorber Industries. ion trends. Visit the lounge on Level 1 for a Speakers will discuss aspects of the non- sneak preview of the latest Disney Couture WWDMAGIC Presents StyleFile quota era of 2005, global competition and fashion line. Spring 2005 opportunity. • Grand Lobby, North Hall, South Hall, Aug. 30-Sept. 1: 2 p.m. • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N253 Level 1 • Grand Lobby 10 a.m.: Get More Out of Your Inventory: DNR Lounge MAGIC kids Presents the Best of Learn to Sell on eBay Stop by to pick up the latest issues of DNR Spring 2005 Presented by eBay. and catch up on all the current news. Aug. 30-Sept. 2: 9:30 a.m. This seminar will provide an overview of • Grand Lobby • Grand Lobby Continued on page 60 the edge Lounge An energetic spot to eat, drink or chill and watch DJs spin. • South Hall, Level 2 1412 Broadway, Suite 1108, New York, N.Y. 10018 • 212-840-3838 in•dex Lounge, sponsored by Zink Magazine Enjoy a contemporary lounge environment and MICHAEL PERRY ATLANTA sip cocktails at the cash 404-681-1945 bar while listening to BUTCH SMITH groove-laden beats. CAROLINAS • Central Hall, Designer 910-892-6540 & Contemporary SHERRY GARNER FLORIDA Nickelodeon/Comedy 251-980-6865 Central Lounge DOUG HILFICKER CHICAGO View upcoming adult 847-692-4778 styles for Nickelodeon’s PENN ASSOCIATES “SpongeBob SquarePants” NEW ENGLAND and Comedy Central’s UPSTATE NY “Chapelle’s Show,” “Reno 800-700-3497 911,” “South Park” and PAT NICHOLS “The Man Show.” Meet DALLAS 210-805-9061 Isaac Hayes, the voice of Chef from “South Park,” JOHN FRESH MID-ATLANTIC during a postcard-signing 610-696-3017 on Tuesday, Aug. 31, from LIZ SCARFF 10-11:30 a.m. and again JACKSON, MS from 1-2:30 p.m. 601-957-1501 • South Hall, Level 2 SUE SOMMERS PUERTO RICO 787-727-2313 URB Magazine and Boost Mobile Lounge Meet and greet members of both the URB and Boost Mobile teams in their chill lounge area. Soak in daily doses of live DJs, cocktails, graffiti art created on the spot and an in-person URB fashion shoot. • South Hall, Level 2

Von Dutch Kids Lounge Weeplay and Old School Clothing present Von Dutch Kids Lounge, located with- in MAGIC kids. Come relax and check out the latest kids’ fashions by Von Dutch during daily fashion shows at 10:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m. and 3:30 p.m. • South Hall, Level 1

FASHION SHOWS Pulse: Men’s and Women’s Trend Collections 2005 60 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

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Continued from page 59 eBay and will walk vendors and merchants the Plus-Size Customer 12 p.m.: Fall-Winter 2005-06 Trend-Right through the selling process step by step. For Presented by Global Purchasing Group. Issues for Men’s Wear experienced sellers, the seminar will cover Hosted by Mercedes Gonzalez. Presented by Color Portfolio. Hosted by Carol advanced listing techniques and how to set This seminar shows you how to create a Meek. up your own store on eBay. friendly, sensitive and responsive atmos- A focused presentation of key trends, prints, • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N263 phere for the emerging plus-size market. silhouettes, fabrics and colors for the sea- • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N253 son. 12 p.m.: How to Service, Market and Sell to • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N259

1 p.m.: Get More Out of Your Inventory: Learn to Sell on eBay Encore presentation. • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N263

2 p.m.: What’s Next for Spring 2005 & Forward — Women’s Trends Presented by The Doneger Group. Hosted by David Wolfe. Wolfe takes a look at the forces driving fashion: lifestyle patterns, con- sumer profiles, marketing directions, colors, fabrics and design trends. • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N235

2 p.m.: Fall-Winter 2005-06 Trend-Right Issues for Women’s Wear Presented by Color Portfolio. Hosted by Carol Meek. A focused presentation of key trends, prints, silhou- ettes, fabrics and colors Take control of your tag and label supply chain ® for the season. When we built Check-Net, with our global logistics platform. • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N253 were we thinking Retailers, brand owners, and vendors agree: with 30 service bureaus and on-line data management, 2 p.m.: Better Fit, Today! speed, Check-Net® gives you more control over global ticket — Implications From the SizeUSA National Sizing and tag production. You can get woven labels, care labels, Survey control, hang tags, and much more—all through one source. Hosted by Tim Curran, Plus, get real-time updates on every order. Verify item manager, contract services, or TC2. accuracy and shipping status to reduce error and speed Key findings from TC2’s value? up delivery. Settle invoices electronically for more National Sizing Survey, efficient processing. And do it all via a secure web site SizeUSA, will be re- viewed, and data analysis you can access 24/7. tools will be discussed. YES. • South Hall, Level 1, Yes. We can customize a program just for you. You can Room MS 111 be confident that your tag and label supply chain is under control with Checkpoint. Visit checknetdemo.com to 3 p.m.: Get More Out of learn more, or call us at 1-800-257-5540, ext. 3293. Your Inventory: Learn to Sell on eBay Encore presentation. • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N263

4 p.m.: Faster Fit, Confidence. To do more. Automatically — 3D Body Data to 2D Patterns Hosted by Kimberly D. Munro, manager, product Product Identification . Shrink Management . EPC/RFID Solutions development services, TC2. WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 61

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Learn how TC2’s research initiatives to au- 8 a.m.: How Stain Protection and Other set up a buying plan to ensure leaner, tomatically generate 2D patterns directly Easy Care Benefits are Improving Apparel better-balanced, faster-turning inventory from 3D body scan data can enable earlier Presented by INVISTA. Hosted by Lisa with fewer markdowns and a positive cash flow. fit consensus. Pfrommer. • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N259 • South Hall, Level 1, Room MS 111 Stain protection and other easy-care bene- fits that meet consumer needs by repelling 10 a.m.: Gutsy: Spring-Summer 2005 4 p.m.: Youth Predictive — spills and releasing ground-in stains are Forecast Spring-Summer 2005 becoming more important in apparel. Presented by The American Trend & Color Presented by The Doneger Group. Hosted by • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N259 Committee. Hosted by Lisa Mainardi. David Wolfe. Sponsored by the International Fashion Fashion takes a tongue-in-cheek approach 10 a.m.: Open-to-Buy Planning: “How Much Fabric Exhibition. for spring-summer 2005 with witty trends Should I Buy?” Mainardi, director of The American Trend that capture the imagination of the youth Presented by OTB Retail Systems. Hosted by & Color Committee, which represents the market. Color, fabric, print and pattern di- Mort Haaz. opinion of more than 25 industry experts, rection, in addition to key silhouettes, will This 90-minute workshop will detail the will provide a comprehensive forecast of be highlighted within each trend. needs, benefits and workings of the open- the season’s top picks for colors, trends, tex- • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N235 to-buy process. Retailers will learn how to tures and silhouettes. Continued on page 62 4 p.m.: Retail 101: How to Open and Run a Successful Retail Store Presented by Global Purchasing Group. Hosted by Mercedes Gonzalez. Topics include buying, re- tail math, industry terms, merchandising and dis- plays, your sales team, op- Luxurious. Lustrous. Lasting. erations, technology and customer service. The cotton for fashion. • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N259

4 p.m.: Marketing and Selling Online: Virtual Showrooms — Applications in Today’s Industry Presented by Fashion Business Inc. and Apparel Link. Hosted by Arnie Wachman and Kelly Rose, Apparel Link. Designers and fashion mar- keters will learn how the Web can be used to give fashion creators direct, real-time control over their creative vision online by integrating the Web’s infor- mation delivery capability with traditional sales chan- nels. Retailers and fashion merchandisers will learn how to keep up with fashion information be- tween major markets by using virtual showrooms. • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N253

Tuesday, Aug. 31 7 a.m.: Is eBay Right for Your Business? An Overview of the eBay Platform and Services Presented by eBay. Representatives from the eBay clothing, shoes and accessories team will provide an overview of the business and discuss various selling options for businesses of all sizes. This breakfast ® seminar is reserved for exhibitors and manufac- turers only. www.supima.com •North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N263 62 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

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Continued from page 61 • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N253 participants to ask specific questions and • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N253 12 p.m.: Viewpoint: Men’s European Design discuss exclusive topics. 10 a.m.: Sourcing Outlook for 2005 — Collections, Spring 2005 • South Hall, Level 2, Room MS 216 What Will Retailers Expect From Their Presented by The Doneger Group. Hosted by Suppliers? David Wolfe. 1 p.m.: Get More Out of Your Inventory: Presented by Peter McGrath, chairman, J.C. A front-row view of men’s European design- Learn to Sell on eBay Penney Purchasing Corp. er shows in Milan and Paris, covering the Encore presentation. The elimination of the quota system opens most important details in color, textiles and • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N263 the door for a new approach to sourcing, as designs from the world’s leading designers. well as changes in the long-term relation- • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N235 2 p.m.: Organic Fiber: Why and How to Use ships between retailers and vendors. Hear It in Your Apparel Line firsthand what will be required from major 12 p.m.: Fall-Winter 2005 From a West Presented by The Organic Trade Association. retailing companies. Coast Point of View Hosted by Sandra Marquardt, Organic Trade • South Hall, Level 1, Room MS 111 Presented by Fashion Business Inc. and Association; Anne Gillespie, Agility Design Options. Hosted by Fran Sude, Design Consulting; Pam Stubenbord, Green 10 a.m.: Get More Out of Your Inventory: Options. Source/The Source; Marci Zaroff, Under the Learn to Sell on eBay Color and trend for adult, junior, contempo- Canopy; Mara Engel, Organic Works Encore presentation. rary, young men’s and home fashion mar- Marketing. • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N263 kets. The seminar will address the market for • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N259 organic-fiber apparel and challenges and 12 p.m.: Trend-Spotting: Spring 2005 opportunities for manufacturers and buyers. Presented by Global Purchasing Group. 12 p.m.: Sports Illustrated On Campus • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N253 Hosted by Mercedes Gonzalez. Presented by Sports Illustrated On Campus. This seminar will cover how to find the next This relaxed and engaging panel of college 2 p.m.: Brand Cohesion 2 hot trend, based on sales, current events students from around the country will Presented by The Gale Group. and the fashion cycle. provide a unique opportunity for audience Continued on page 64

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Continued from page 62 South Hall, Level 1, Room MS 111 international political economy, University of Brand Cohesion 2 is an extension of • 3 p.m.: Get More Out of Your Inventory: California at San Diego. February 2004’s Brand Cohesion Panel. Learn to Sell on eBay Recent developments in the apparel industry Using case studies and visuals, panelists Encore presentation. have created demand for sources of supply from national brands and publications will • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N263 with high labor standards. This seminar will discuss branding and image-building in a discuss ways that brands, vendors, govern- competitive marketplace, defining and un- 4 p.m.: Women’s Wear Trends for Spring- ments and civil society can collaborate for derstanding the market, maintaining credi- Summer 2005 and Fall-Winter 2005-06 mutual rewards. bility, cross-promotional ideas for brands Presented by Worth Global Style Network. • South Hall, Level 1, Room MS 111 and retailers and the importance of integrity Hosted by Barbara Kennington, creative in your message. director. 4 p.m.: Gutsy: Spring-Summer 2005 North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N259 • The presentation of women’s wear trends Forecast for spring-summer 2005 and fall-winter Encore presentation. 2 p.m.: Outlook for Sourcing: 2005-06 will feature highlights from the cur- • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N259 U.S. and E.U. Perspectives rent global retail scene, St. Tropez and Ibiza Presented by Julia K. Hughes, vice president, high summer resort reports and the Paris Wednesday, Sept. 1 international trade, United States Association couture fall-winter 2004-05 shows. To 8 a.m.: Women’s Wear Trends for Spring- of Importers of Textiles and Apparel, and receive an invitation to these seminars, Summer 2005 and Fall-Winter 2005-06 Emma Ormond, international trade consult- e-mail [email protected]. Encore presentation. ant, PriceWaterhouseCoopers. • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N253 • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N253 This seminar will review current and pro- 10 a.m.: Get More Out of Your Inventory: jected sourcing trends for imports in the 4 p.m.: Compliance as a Competitive Learn to Sell on eBay United States and the European Union. Advantage Encore presentation. Speakers will highlight new suppliers and Presented by Tamsin Randlett, senior direc- • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N263 the factors that will affect changes in sourc- tor, government affairs, Gap, and Richard ing after quotas are eliminated. Feinberg, consultant, Gap, and professor of Continued on page 66

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Continued from page 64 and what new skills will be required for both buyers and suppliers. 10 a.m.: Open-to-Buy Planning: • South Hall, Level 1, Room MS 111 “How Much Should I Buy?” Encore presentation. 12 p.m.: From Flash to Cash: Practical Legal Aspects of Protecting, • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N259 Promoting and Profiting From Your Trademark Presented by Dowd & Marotta LLC. Hosted by Raymond J. Dowd and 10 a.m.: Fall-Winter 2005-06: Women’s Wear Forecast Daniel C. Marotta. Presented by Peclers Paris North America. Hosted by Stephanie This seminar will discuss the ins and outs of trademarks, licensing Meyerson. and publicity. Preview the trends for fall-winter 2005-06 in the women’s wear mar- • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N253 ket, including the influences, color palettes, fabric directions and key items for the season. 12 p.m. Fall-Winter 2005-06: Men’s Wear Forecast • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N253 Presented by Peclers Paris North America. Hosted by Jayne Mountford. 10 a.m.: Full-Value Sourcing in the Post-2005 Era Preview the trends for fall-winter 2005-06 in the men’s wear market, Hosted by David Birnbaum, ceo, Third Horizon Ltd. and author of highlighting the major influences, color palettes, fabric directions “Birnbaum’s Global Guide to Winning the Great Garment War.” and key items for the season. Birnbaum will introduce full-value sourcing — the new model for the • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N259 post-2005 era; how factories must restructure to meet the challenges; how sourcing must change to take full advantage of the free market, 12 p.m.: Gutsy: Spring-Summer 2005 Color, Trend & Silhouette Forecast Presented by The American Trend & Color Committee. Hosted by Lisa Mainardi. Representing the opinion of more than 25 industry ex- perts, Mainardi will present the season’s top picks for men’s, women’s and children’s trends in an interactive slide presentation. • South Hall, Level 1, Room MS 111

1 p.m.: Get More Out of Your Inventory: Learn to Sell on eBay Encore presentation. • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N263

2 p.m.: How to Build an Effective Marketing and Advertising Campaign Presented by Chic Streets. Hosted by Julie Oriola. Learn how to build your business without having to rely on traditional advertising and marketing, whether just breaking into the business or an already estab- lished neighborhood favorite. For more information, visit chicstreets.com. • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N253

2 p.m.: Men’s Wear Trends for Spring-Summer 2005 and Fall-Winter 2005-06 Presented by Worth Global Style Network. Hosted by Barbara Kennington, creative director, WGSN. This presentation of men’s wear trends for spring- summer 2005 and fall-winter 2005-06 will feature highlights in retail trends, denim updates, the Ibiza Continued on page 68 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 67

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You’ve Got The Order... Are You Sure You’ll Get Paid? Sterling Factors: Serving Businesses for 75 Years! •Protects your receivables •Puts cash back into your cash flow •Opens letters of credit to bring in product ...and we do it all as part of Sterling National Bank! Sterling wants to be your financial partner. For your own pieceof mind, Contact: explore the possibilities by calling one of our relationship managers. For Factoring call Stanley Officina, For Asset-Based Lending call Robert Schnitzer, President Vice President Sterling Factors Corporation at 212-575-4413 Sterling National Bank, at 212-575-4446

STERLING FACTORS CORPORATION FDIC STERLING NATIONAL BANK NYSE: STL 500 Seventh Avenue • New York, NY 10018 • www.sterlingbancorp.com OUR DOORS ARE OPEN ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP 68 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

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Continued from page 66 This seminar presents a legal and business Rosa Whitaker, president and chief executive high summer resort report, and the Paris perspective on the potential hazards of the officer, The Whitaker Group, co-chair, AGOA 3 and Milan men’s wear runway collections quota-free era and how to avoid them. Action Committee; Peter Craig, trade commis- for spring-summer 2005. To receive an invi- • South Hall, Level 1, Room MS 111 sioner, Embassy of Mauritius, and tation, e-mail [email protected]. Rajaonarivony Narisoa, ambassador, • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N259 3 p.m.: Get More Out of Your Inventory: Embassy of Madagascar. Learn to Sell on eBay The United States government recently 2 p.m.: 2005: What Could Go Wrong Encore presentation. extended the African Growth and (and How to Make It Right) • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N263 Opportunity Act to continue to develop Presented by Brenda Jacobs, attorney, Sidley trade between Sub-Saharan Africa and the Austin Brown & Wood LLP. 4 p.m.: AGOA: Sourcing in Sub-Saharan Africa Continued on page 70 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 69

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LICENSED / COPYRIGHT HANDBAGS, T-SHIRTS & ACCESSORIES

ASD: 8/15 - 8/19 Marilyn Monroe ™ # S1729 - S1731 Lower level Betty Boop ™ New York Gift: 8/15 - 8/19 I LOVE LUCY ™ # 1220 - 1236, 1321 - 1337 The Honeymooners ™ Magic WWD: 8/30 - 9/2 # JA14433 REX ™

Copyright © 2004 Marilyn Monroe, Betty Boop, I LOVE LUCY. All rights reserved. Licensee: Rhinestone Express Tel: 213.749.8808 www.rex-la.com 70 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004

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Continued from page 68 United States. The seminar will address the just-renewed trade legislation and describe the benefits and opportunities for sourcing in the region. • South Hall, Level 1, Room MS 111

4 p.m.: Kids’ Wear Trends for Spring-Summer 2005 and Fall-Winter 2005-06 Presented by Worth Global Style Network. Hosted by Barbara Kennington, creative director, WGSN. This presentation will focus on kids’ wear retail, denim, streetwear, and tween/teen influences and inspirations, plus a look ahead to spring-summer 2005 and fall-winter 2005-06. To receive an invita- tion, e-mail [email protected]. • North Hall, Mezzanine, Room N259

Thursday, Sept. 2 10 a.m.: Full-Value Sourcing in the Post-2005 Era Encore presentation. • South Hall, Level 1, Room MS 111

12 p.m.: C-TPAT and Supply Chain Security Recommendations Presented by Wayne Kornmann, supervisory supply chain specialist, U.S. Customs and Border Protection. The Customs-Trade Partnership Against Terrorism (C-TPAT) is a joint government-business initiative designed to strengthen overall supply chain and border security while facilitating legitimate, compliant trade. To date, more than 6,500 companies have partnered with U.S. Customs Border Protection, making it the largest, most successful government-private sector partnership to arise out of 9/11. Kornmann will help clarify C-TPAT, as well as supply chain security recommendations for the U.S. market. • South Hall, Level 1, Room MS 111 spreeTHE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO SHOPPING FOR KIDS

November 2004: Holiday Close: September 24

From the publishers of WWD Children's Business, spree is the ultimate shopping guide for fashion's future trendsetters. Be sure your most important retailers and consumers make the right choice this holiday season.

Bonus Distribution: qualified consumers through Macy’s West.

For more information on advertising in Spree or WWD Children’s Business, please contact Michelle Brown, publisher, at 212-630-4666, or your sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide®