History of 's World

Item Type text; Article

Authors Aulabaugh, Betty; Hoff, Audrey

Citation Aulabaugh, B., & Hoff, A. (1993). History of Missouri's world. Rangelands, 15(2), 65-69.

Publisher Society for Range Management

Journal Rangelands

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Link to Item http://hdl.handle.net/10150/638929 RANGELANDS 15(2), April 1993 65

History of Missouri's World

Betty Aulabaugh and Audrey Hoff

MISSOURI BECAME A STATE in 1821,but its legacy actually began millions of years ago. Changes taking place over eons of time created a unique, diverse region directing theprogress of humankind. Missouri is an aver- age size state, 250 miles wide and 328 miles long. Referred to asanother Eden throughoutAmerican history and the "garden spot of theFar West" (Josiah Gregg), the statetook on aeuphoric existence amidst the developing nation. "The Bureau of Ethnologyof the federal govern- ment pointedout that nativeMissourians are strongerand taller than the nativecitizens of any otherState" (Williams 1904). By 1900 there was so much said about natural resources of Missouri (land, forests, rivers, mineral dep- osits)that a certainsmugness developed amongMissour- ians. This attitude went so far among Missouri citizens that it was believed they would do very well without the rest of the world. How did Missouri evolve? Its geology, history, and agricultureintertwine to createan interestingstory. What events occurred that established Missouri as the "great- est place on earth to live"? Missouri's Geology and Vegetation The Paleozoic Era, 500,000,000years ago, began with Missouri and the Ozark Highland submerged by seas advancing from both the Arctic and the Gulf. Layers of limestones, conglomerates, and sandstones formedfrom the diverse materials deposited by the seas. Because of this, Missouri is rich in fossilsthat includetrilobites, bra- chiopods, cephalopods (ancestors ofthe nautilus), sharks and lungfish,and crinoids ("stonelilies" used as beads by nativeAmericans). Glaciers were a powerful force in the shaping of Mis- souri land. Grinding and crushing of rock mixed with animaland remainscreated fertile soils dotted plant rich, 1. Limestone left fromPrecambrian seas have eroded with erratic Fig. deposits boulderswhile deposited glacial till formed to leave sinkholes like this, as well as other Karst topographic moraines. Rolling lands with wide, meandering streams features, throughout southern Missouri. became characteristic of north Missouri. Huge dust primarily responsible for the division of flora at the Mis- storms in brought wind-blown soil, bess, up to 70 feet souri River (Gleason 1923).The flowering dogwood, bald deep. These soils are responsible for the chocolate- cypress, and sassafras are examples of plantsthat are not colored rivers north of the and its nick- naturally found north of the Missouri River. Oaks domi- name, the"Big Muddy". South ofthe Missouri River rocky nate three-fourthsof Missouri'stotal forest lands (USDA soils are prominent, creatinga dendritic patternto rivers 1992). In southeast Missouri, a large number of species and streams where cherty limestone resisted erosion. remain along the Mississippi floodplainwithout moving Advancingand recedingglaciers from the north were into areas once occupiedby glaciers. Neithersoil condi- tions nor climate can be cited as an Authorsare researchassociate, Cool-Season Grass Breeding Project, Univ. explanation, merely of Missouri,Columbia, and retired Missouri historian,Columbia. the advancement of glaciers. There is more evidence of a shift in vegetation east-west as opposed to any farther 66 RANGELANDS 15(2), April 1993

Fig. 2. Trees andstreams, some quiet, some raging, crisscross the entire state.

south (Gleason 1923). The St. FrancoisMountain area in but it was rich in minerals. Missouri Upliftof the Rocky Mountains crea- thesoutheast is uplifted igneous rock became known as the "Iron Moun- ted the semi-arid region to the east, where Taum Sauk Mountain, the tain State" because of its iron, lead namelythe Great Plains,where moist- highest point in Missouri, sits at 1,732 (1798), coal, zinc (1872), and some ure-laden winds were restricted feet. Although it is vastly different silver. Oil was also discovered in the and changed plant species to grass from the mountain ranges, northwest area of the state (Nagel dominance.The prairievegetation, a Missourians are proudof their Ozark 1977). Strip mining of minerals result of little rainfall,was invaded by region. Fossils are not found in this brought forest destructionand ugly, deciduous forestthat advanced north area because of its volcanic origin, long-lasting scars to the landscape and west from the with in- creased rainfall. Missouri became ever-changing between prairie and woodland dominance, shifting as much as 300—400 miles east-west, while today prairies are mainly in north and west Missouri. Almost a third of the forests are found in the eastern Ozark Highland Region, and 85 percent of Missouri's forests are private land (USDA 1992). Deciduousforests migrated upstream on major rivers in north Missouri including the Grand, Chariton, and Salt. They showed an unexpected distribution with the largest stands originally found on the eastern side of streams. Prairie fires, driven by a westerly wind, gradually destroyed much of the forests on the western side. The periodof great forest migra- tion must have closed with theadvent of the Indian and directedfires (Glea- 3. Muchof north Missouri iscovered a terrain of fields son 1923). Fig. by rolling open interspersedwith large, spreadingoaks andadjacent forests. RANGELANDS15(2), April1993 67

became the "Gateway to the West" long before statehood. Migration routes of early man followed these rivers also used as first transporta- tion routes across our nation. Origi- nally part of the Province and sparsely populatedby the Span- . ish and French, Missouri remained mostly unexplored priorto 1762. Later St. Louis was established as a Fur Trade Center, 1780-1829, and pio- neers began hearing stories of the West's great "Shining Mountains". Lewis and Clark (1804), ZebuIon Pike (1805), Jedediah Smith (1821), Fre- mont (1842), departed from St. Louis in search of adventure. Missouri's fossil recordsrecorded beaver seven feet long—wouldn't 01' Jedediah have had atimewith him? Common Indian tribes were the Missouri and Osage, consideredto be the Plains Indians, while Eastern WoodlandIndian cul- tures southeast Missouri. Areas in occupied FIg. 4. northern and western Missouri are being restored to ta//grass prairie Settlers move West vegetation reminiscentof Missouri's landscapeprior to settlement,creating amosaic of began to by forest interspersedwith savannas. river travel and the town of Franklin became the first starting point of while railroadsspread into Missouri, mountainswhich have glades mixed many land journeys, since it sat at 1860, throughSt. Louisto St. Joseph, among forested vegetation. The the edge of the vast Plains. Traders Jefferson City, Rolla, Hannibal,and legendary Baldknobbers established began setting outby horseand packed Ironton. Minerals and coal werethen their reputation here. More erosion mules in 1821. At the sight of all the shipped by rail, increasing mining led to rock outcrops of sandstone silverWilliam Becknell broughtback, and Missouri's wealth. The railroad and porphyries in the St. Francois most ofthe town started rushing over ended dependence on river travel, Mountains creating beautiful shut- thetrail to increase theirown wealth, ins and clear streams that are which antiquated 's le- crystal thus the beginning of the Santa Fe gendary . nowpart ofthe National Scenic River- Trail. When families moved west, Karst topographycovers thesouth- waysSystem. This area hosts many transportationwas needed to move ern half of the "CaveState" with over float trips on warm, summer days householdsof goods—which brought 500 cavesdiscovered, plus sinkholes, and snowy, winter daysfor the more about the invention of the covered giant springs, and undergroundriv- adventurous outdoor enthusiast. wagon. At Franklin, vegetation be- ers. Unique animal species like the Earthquakescentered at New Mad- came prairie-likeas opposed to east- cavefish (Springfield area), blind rid rocked the Midwest during the ern woodlands, making it easier to salamanders, and various bat spe- winter of 1811—1812 and were the pull wagonsthrough these areas. In cies inhabit the subterrestrial envi- worst in recorded history. The Mis- 1828 the "Big Muddy" washed away ronment. Caves were an extremely sissippiRiver changed itscourse and most of the town and the starting important resource throughout Mis- flowed uptstream for a brief time, point moved to Independence, "the souri history. Some caves were in- also forming the Mississippi Low- general port of embarkation forevery habited by Ice Age hunters 20,000 lands in the "Bootheel".Originally a part of the great western and north- years ago, and it is believed agricul- vast wetlands area, it is now almost ern prairie ocean" (Missouri Project ture began 6000—7000 years ago completelydrained for rowcropping 1941). because of milling stones found in cotton and rice. Since the Santa Fe Trail traversed them Bat had (Williams1904). guano Missouri's to the southwest, the Oregon Trail also been mined for manufacuturing History went to the northwest.Settlers were gunpowder, a valuable commodity Missouri'snoted role in American on the move. Mormons moved west- during the Civil War. history is primarilydue to the Missis- wardalong the Iowa-Missouri border. A cycle of erosion in extreme sippi, Missouri, and OhioRivers which thundered along the southern Missouri created the "bald" originated from recedingglaciers at ButterfieldOverland Mail route leav- the end of the Ice Age. St. Louis ing St. Louisthrough Springfieldfor 68 RANGELANDS15(2), April 1993 places in the south. And, of course, lene, , took over (American neverregained agricultural dominance thefamed riders (1861) Heritage Magazine of History 1966). and its great urban migration began carriedmail from St. Joseph to points with the ReconstructionPeriod after west until theadvent of the telegraph Missouri's Agriculture the Civil War (Williams 1904). made them obsolete. The infamous Daniel Webster (1837) boasted that Between the settlers, late 1800's, Trail ofTears, movement of theChe- Missouri had "more mineral and agri- and the lumberindustry, early 1900's, rokee Nation to reservations, trav- culture wealth than any otherarea on the state was virtually denuded of its ersed southern Missouri along the earth....where the eastern forest and forests by the time Theodore Roose- now-established Highway60. In ad- western plains come together." "If velt established National Forests. dition to trails and roads, railroads you plant a tenpenny nail there at Many prairies had succumbed to the expanded across Missouri methodi- night, hit'll sprout crow bars by mor- plow, never to regain their original cally avoidingthe mountainoussou- nm" brought an influx of settlers. vitality.The Civil Conservation Corps theast Ozark region and just in time However,they shunned prairie regions planted massive areas of trees in for the Civil War. After the battle at and keptto the forests, whichresulted Missouri,leaving pre-forested areas Wilson's Creek, nearSpringfield,North in massive clearing efforts. There to re-establish themselves. and South uniformcolors were estab- wasa commonbelief that "corn won't Missouri'sagricultural profile was lished for the rest of the war. grow where trees won't" (Missouri constantly changing. In 1860, corn ChristopherColumbus brought the Project 1941). General T.A. Smith wasgrown in thenorthwest, tobacco first cattle to America in 1493, his and William Muldrow experimented and hemp grew along the Missouri second voyage. Everywherecolonists growing cornon separateprairie areas RiverBottoms, whilecattle and other and settlers went so did their cattle. of the state. This "produced a new livestockranged the rest ofthe state. Strong, solid Spanish cattle from era in the State, and eversince intel- By 1920, there was corn, wheat, to- Mexico interbredwith scrawnysettlers' ligentfarmers have regarded a prairie bacco, and cattle ranches. And in cattle creating the Texas Longhorn as the best in the world, provided 1960, corngrew throughoutthe north (American HeritageMagazine of His- they can procure at no great dis- with general farmingin the rest ofthe tory 1966). Southern Texas became tance, timber enough to fence it." state. home to about 5 million wild roaming (Wetmore, Gazetteer of MO, 1837) In recentyears, Missouri has been cattle during the Civil War, worth (Missouri Project 1941). the subject of vegetation restoration $3—4 per head.Prices rose to$40/head After 1860, almost half the land by Missouri Department of Conser- by 1865 in St. Louis and Texans were wascultivated, but the Civil Wardes- vation and Department of Natural motivated to round-up and drivethem troyed much of the farms, crops, Resources. Programs include resto- to the nearest railhead—Sedalia, livestock, and buildings. Corporation ration of prairies,savannas, glades, Missouri, establishing theSedalia and farming began and independent wetlands, and forests. Restoration BaxterSprings Trail. Between forests farmerswere swamped in debt from appears only as remnants between making it difficult to drive 250,000 machinery and transportation of agriculture; however, cooperation head and crossing settled land, this goods. Agriculture had become a between all entitiescreates more res- trail's history was limited to only a business and lostthe pioneer spirt of tored areas each year. year. The ChisholmTrail out of Abi- challenge and adventure. Missouri Large-sized, strongly built mules are characteristic of Missouri. For this reason, the British army sent its agents to the Western Continent to buy mules, establishing a distribu- tion centerat Lathrop, Missouri, send- ing out 115,000 mules. These mules afterserving with distinctionthrough- outthe BoerWar in South Africa, are one of the most importantfactors in developing agricultureof that region. The Russian army also purchased mulesfor theirwar with Japan (Willi- ams1904). Missouri'sfamegrewthrough- outthe world and having gained that recognition, St. Louis hosted the 1904 World's Fair where circumstances led to the "invention" of ice cream conesand hot dogs (Nagel 1977).

FIg. 5. Missouri is divided into fourdistinct geological regions which influence the vegeta- tion native to each area. The cities shown on the map were historically important to Missouri's development. RANGELANDS 15(2), April 1993 69

Conclusion Dunlop, RIchard. 1971. Great Trailsof the West, Abingdon Press, Nashville.320 pp. Many names, places, and events have gone unmen- Gleason, H.A. 1923. "Vegetational History of the Middle West", tioned in this story but all were important. Nevertheless, Annals ofthe Association of AmericanGeographers, Vol. XII. pp. 'the spirit of Missouri is the spirit of progress, tempered 39-85. conservatism" Conservative Missour- Missouri Writer's Prolect. 1941 Missouri:A Guideto the "Show-Me" by (Williams 1904). State, Duell, Sloan and Pearce. N.Y. 652 pp. ians are part of the state's heritageand continue notoriety Nagel,Paul C. 1977. Missouri:A BicentennialHistory, W.W. Norton of the "Show-Me"State. (Note: If pride seems to be ooz- & Company,Inc., N.Y. 205 pp. ing through the lines of this article, both authors are U.S. Dept. of Agric. Forest Service.1992. "Missouri Forest Resour- Missou ces, 1989: An Analysis", Forest Inventory and Analysis, North ri-born). Central ExperimentStation, St. Paul, MN. Bibliography Williams, Waiter. 1904. The State of Missouri:An Autobiography, Press of E.W. Stephens, Columbia, Missouri, 608 pp. American HeritageMagazine of History. 1966. The AmericanPictor- ial Atlas of United States History, AmericanHeritage Publishing Co., Inc., N.Y. 424 pp.

President's Notes (continuedfrom page 51) I am reminded of the situation where the prairie chicken saw an at the side of the nest. a the Society is a culmination of the beliefs of its egg Being good mother, she placed aggregate the back in the nest members. I hope you as individuals, believein at leastmost of egg where it hatched with the rest. The motherobserved the hatched the list I presented. As the we is a biodiverse newly chickwas differentfrom the rangeland manage rest of the brood. The chick was ecosystem, so is the Societyto which we belong.While we must larger, more stately and of differentcharacter. With the of the mother was appreciate all aspects of the ecosystem, our efforts are often guidance bird, it all of the chicks and the other concentrated on a few components. Thebeliefs presented here readily accepted by prairie chickens. He waslooked asa source of andwas are broad, and were intentionally not placed in any specific upon inspiration the However, that the bird was out scratch- order,hierarchy, or importance. The detail of each is subjectto protector. everyday in the hewould look andmarvel in awe atthe interpretationas to value and application. This is the way it is ing ground, upward overhead. As the he continued with the ecosystem we manage. Just as passive management eagles soaring daysprogressed to look andwished hetoo could soarwith the but will not work in the ecosystem, passiveness in the Society will upward eagles, his with the not bring the positive results we desire. Just as we developa recognizing position prairie chickenshe was con- tent toscratch in the dirt. Sincehe never tried his henever management plan to guideand prioritize our effortson the land, wings, knewthat hetoo could and soar with the You see the we are developing a Strategic Plan to prioritize our beliefs, fly eagles. bird thathad been found the chickenwas that lost efforts,and resources within the Society. Just aswe need quality egg by prairie an What the was that while input into a management plan, we need member input into the by eagle. eagleexperienced great- nesscould be thrust one, excellence mustbe achieved! He planningprocess of the Society. upon had done a lot of but was his block the best. We havejust published an excellent invited synthesis paper on good letting good biodiversity and have a on the Our membership is up, our attendanceat meetings is high, the completed symposium topic. interest individualsto work Hopefullythis will be ourspringboard for apolicy statement. We expressed by and assist with com- mitteefunctions is the best ever. We have established the have activetask groupsworking on the Futures of Range Man- pro- cess of and have it off the The Stra- agement Educationand Unity in Conceptsand Terminology. strategicplanning ground. Plan is a It is and The Wildlife Habitat Committee is workingto develop an SRM- tegic continuing process. dynamic requires book on wildlife habitat. The of the participation by all. Through the processour annual plans of published publication sym- work will with posium on livestockgrazing held in conjunction with AIBS is be developed sharper focus on the mission at hand, our supportfor educa- progressing smoothly. We have produced information and including rangeland management, tion, and research; ways to increase our sources of revenue sources of contact for small tract landholders. Technology which limit our a cause and to exert Transferis discussingways to provideinformation on riparian ability to pursue worthy management. The Conservation Reserve timelyprofessional leadership on rangeland management issues. Now isthe time for the the ofeach Program is developing a networkof activities within the sections Society, through "partnering" of us to be heard more than ever before. to increase involvement at the grassroots level. The Grazing effectively There is a lot to be done. and the executive Lands Initiative is under way. Coordinated Resource Manage- yet Congress branchhave toestablish a for us to This is ment has completed its training manual and has several new yet path evaluate. the on the scene in twelve I call training sessions planned. These are a few of the activities that greatestchange political years! on each of to assist in this I am certain that I will be will be ongoing this next year. you regard. some of and task forces or ad hoc Individualsdo make a difference!Most ofthe workpresented contacting you specifically be thus far was initiated individuals or of individuals committees may established topursue yet unknown activities. by groups I believe of recognizing the interdependence of each other, and Remember, thestrength the Societyis through its individual members and we can make a difference! thus informal partnerships. Individuals, (ratherthan individual- collectively Feel free to contact me, the Denver or the ism) concentratingon their strengthscan do muchfor the pro- Office, appropriate committee with ideas. fessionand Society. If a niche doesn't seem immediately appar- your ent at the level, don't overlook With your enthusiasm and insight perhapsit is possible to parent society your for and Section. Manygood ideas can, do, and should come from the hope harmony understanding regardingthe assessment, and useof the Do we dare Sections and flow through the Advisory Council. One such management, rangelandecosystem. soar with the Thank for the to serveas example which has helped substantiallyin the finances of the eagles? you opportunity President and I am to the Society is the CowboyCookbook your happy accept challenge—Gary Donart, President, SRM