ProjectsFoot of >the Month > Serger Style T-shirt

This month we are featuring a serger project using the serger blind foot. Learn a fast, flat method of constructing a classic T-shirt. The serger makes quick work of stitching together this easy knit garment and the blind hem foot makes a quick and neat looking hem finish.

Materials and Supplies  Brother 3/4- Serger with Blind Hem foot Note: Model 1034D is featured in this project.  Serger Manual for your model machine.  Three cones of serger thread to closely match fabric. New, size 70 or 80 needle as per manual.  T-Shirt with separate neckband.  Fabric and notions as per pattern.  Basic notions for cutting and sewing, including a wash out marker or pencil, and ball point .

Fabric and pattern tips: Be sure to follow the Featured Accessory pick a knit guide on the pattern so your knit has Blind Hem foot for Serger enough stretch. A knit with a little bit of body your serger manual to see if this foot is included works best for this technique. This sample features with your machine accessories or is available as an option. knit with a small percentage of . With lighter weight knits the blind hem will show a bit more and require more tension adjustments. Purchase approximately ¼ yard of extra fabric for testing stitches and for adding a deeper hem allowance to sleeve and bottom hem. Pre-shrink fabric before cutting and sewing.

Instructions for Creating the T-Shirt

1. Prepare the pattern using the following Featured New Look pattern #S0190/6445 is sized for Tweens. Select a similar pattern sized for adults if you choose. modifications to make it suitable for this serger method of construction.

 If pattern has curved begin by using a ruler to straighten bottom hem of T-shirt front, back, and sleeves. Add to each hem as necessary so hem allowance equals a total depth of 1¼-inches. This pattern is a product of Company Inc. and Brother International Corporation makes no representations or warranties regarding such products.

Designed exclusively for you from the Brother Education Department ProjectsFoot of >the Month > Serger Style T-shirt

Tip: Most T-shirt patterns have a small hem allowance for standard stitching. A wider, straight hem is better when using the blind hem foot. You can leave the pattern as is when sewing a standard hem with a . Figure #1

 Check all allowances against the pattern and any excess so that each seam has a ¼-inch allowance. This pattern has a of 5/8-inch on all major seams with 3/8-inch allowance at the neck. Be sure all corresponding seams are trimmed to ¼-inch.

Tip: Using the left needle on a serger produces a seam that is very close to ¼-inch wide. While it is possible to trim excess seam allowance as you serge, trimming the pattern beforehand makes your pattern “serger ready” and speeds up the entire construction process. As you construct the T-shirt, serge each seam by

running the fabric layers through the machine with the serger blades barely skimming the raw edge.

all pieces using with layout. Mark all

notches and other match marks with a wash out marker in place of cutting or snipping notches. Figure #2

2. Set up serger with one needle in the left position. Thread machine for a three thread wide stitch. Begin with standard settings for a balanced three-thread stitch. See Figure #1. Make note of the balanced stitch settings at the beginning so you can refer to them when it is time to serge your actual T-shirt seams. 3. Prepare to hem sleeves and bottom hems as follows: Fold and thoroughly press 1¼-inch deep hems on T-shirt front, back, and both

sleeves, pressing to the wrong side as you would for a normal hem. See Figure #2.

Designed exclusively for you from the Brother Education Department ProjectsFoot of >the Month > Serger Style T-shirt

Figure #3

4. Set stitch length for the longest possible. Replace standard serger foot with the blind hem foot. In this example the serger is set for a tension similar to a flatlock serger stitch. This type of setting changes the tension so the blind hem stitch can be pulled flat. Tension numbers will vary slightly but in general the needle tension is very loose, the upper looper is at an average setting, and the lower looper is relatively tight. See Figure #3 for an example. In this example the left needle is at zero, the upper looper is at 5. Cut a remnant of fabric to use for testing the four, and the lower looper is at seven. stitch by folding and pressing the fabric as you did in step 3. To stitch the blind hem, fold the Figure #4 fabric a second time, this time folding so that the outside of the hem touches the right side of the shirt, with a scant ¼-inch of the raw edge extending on the right. Place pins perpendicular to the hem with the wrong side of the fabric up. Do not press this second fold or it may leave a crease on the right side of your fabric. To stitch the hem, adjust the wheel on the blind hem foot so the adjustable guide follows the fold, and the needle barely pierces Figure #5 the folded edge. See Figure #4. On the side facing up, the stitch looks balanced. See Figure #5. On the opposite side the needle thread will form “V” shaped stitches. See Figure #6.

Tip: Moving the guide closer to the blades will allow the needle to catch more fabric. Moving the guide further away from the blades will Figure #6 allow the needle to catch less fabric. Have a catcher handy and make absolutely sure your pins are removed a good distance before you reach the serger blades.

6. Stitch T-shirt hems using method described above, watching the guide as you stitch and slightly skimming fabric that extends beyond

the blades. Without stretching, take care to Note: These examples are stitched with contrast thread for better smooth fabric behind the foot as you stitch. visibility.

Designed exclusively for you from the Brother Education Department ProjectsFoot of >the Month > Serger Style T-shirt

7. After stitching, open out hem and pull gently to Figure #7a flatten the stitch and smooth the fabric flat. Outside of T-shirt Inside of T-shirt Press hem from the right side. See Figure #7a and #7b. 8. To finish the shirt, set up serger for a three thread, balanced stitch, using the left needle for a seam approximately ¼-inch wide. Note: These examples are stitched with contrast thread for better 9. To finish, serge T-shirt seams in the order listed visibility. below, serging all seams with right sides together. Figure #7b

 Serge each shoulder seam and press toward back.  Serge center back seam for neckband. Press flat in any direction. Fold band in half with wrong sides together and press lightly.  Serge band to , matching all pattern marks and stretching band to fit.

 Serge sleeves into armholes. Press seam away Note: Hem shown in Figure #7b is stitched with matching thread. from shoulder.  Serge side seams from one hemmed edge to Figure #8 the other. See Figure #8.

Tip: Be sure to carefully match the armhole seams and hems. Use pins or special sewing clips to keep the edges together. If using pins, you will want to pin perpendicular to the seam on the top side. Remember, it is very important to remove all pins before you approach the blade area on the serger. You can also consider using special wash out fabric glue or tape to secure edges together as you stitch.

 Press hems toward back of garment. down loose seams at sleeve and bottom

using a few small hand stitches to keep them flat. You are finished! Enjoy!

Designed exclusively for you from the Brother Education Department