GRACE AND FRANKIE’S SAN DIEGO The artsy burg of La Jolla, , deserves all the attention it gets.

BY DIANE ANDERSON-MINSHALL

’m sitting in a restaurant cuddling on La Jolla, a jewel of California that’s Sea Cave. A wooden staircase leads 145 with my co-pilot, fully aware that, at art-centric, LGBT-friendly, chic and steps down a manmade tunnel to the this moment, I’m one of the most affluent, but accessible. It’s a wonderful only sea cave here you can access by I privileged people in the country, spot for romance and water adventures, land. Like all of the 200,000-year-old seated at San Diego’s Marine Room such as snorkeling with baby leopard sandstone and rock caves, the mineral watching the crashing surf wash over sharks in the waters of La Jolla Cove, the deposits, kelp, and vegetation make for the dining room’s floor-to-ceiling only place in the U.S. to do so. There are a carpet of amazing colors and windows. It’s not the customers tours—both kayak and snorkel—to the fossilized shells. The cave, which is a (romantics and local power players are area’s ecologically preserved waters and huge hit with kids, was named “Sunny both in attendance) or the food (though caves, and you can see the sharks (as well Jim” by Frank Baum, author of The if you go, don’t miss the delicious as yellowtail, garibaldi, and rays) from Wizard Oz, who thought the cave opening Absinthe Butter Basted Lobster Tail and your kayak. The Birch Aquarium at the bore a resemblance to a 1920s cartoon the Mayan Spice Chocolate Dome, Scripps Institution of Oceanography, character of the same name. On your long Domaine Canton Ginger Crème Brûlée). offers their own snorkel tours too. climb back up the stairs, reflect that it Actually, it’s about the location. Staying on the beach at La Valencia took two Chinese laborers two years to Being able to witness a safe oceanic Hotel, you can literally walk out your build the tunnel using only picks, shovels, engulfment was spectacular. The Marine door and dive in. Known as “The Pink and buckets (to move the rock). Room, opened in 1941, is known for Lady,” La Valencia is an enchanting, rose- After a lovely but too-short stay at La being on the finest beach in La Jolla, a colored Mediterranean-style oceanside Valencia, we moved to Grande Colonial section of San Diego that has been made resort that is pet-friendly—a rarity with Hotel, the more than 100-year-old more famous by the hit Grace and a hotel this swank. The Café la Rue European-style hotel once favored by Frankie. The show—about two older (Bistro + Bar) inside the hotel takes the Hollywood legends from Groucho Marx women in San Diego whose husbands European experience up a notch with to Charlton Heston. Many actors fall in love and come out as gay—features terrazzo floors, Venetian plaster continue to stay there, because of its lesbian icon and feminist ceilings (think Paris in the ‘40s), and al privacy and proximity to famed La Jolla activist coming to terms fresco dining. (The Watermelon Fresca Playhouse, which has incubated 28 with their aging bodies, elder sexuality, with Xicaru Mezcal and the Pink Lady productions that later ran on Broadway and their agency in life. cocktails are both divine; Chimichurri (earning 35 Tony Awards), and dozens Even though the show’s famous Steak is one of the best I’ve had.) more that have enjoyed international beach house is actually located in From the historic La Jolla Cave Store, fanfare. Founded by La Jolla native

Malibu, Grace and Frankie shines a light we visited the world famous Sunny Jim Gregory Peck, the Playhouse remains a RITTERMAN SCHOLTZ PHILIPP

52 THE ADVOCATE OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 2017 LA JOLLA TRAVEL

attraction. My funded by private donations. favorites Many amazing queer artists have included a been among those featured, Stone Fruit including Catherine Opie and Salad (with Mark Bradford. purslane, “What’s interesting about this burrata, collaboration is that the leaders blackberries, of our arts organizations have charred come together to create an cucumber, and outdoor exhibition that makes peach artwork accessible to a larger vinaigrette), an audience, 24 hours a day, seven extensive days a week,” said California global cheese congressman Scott Peters. He’s course, and an right. After our walking tour, we From far left: top attraction for LGBT travelers Alaskan halibut (with fava beans, drove around marveling at the One of La Jolla’s chanterelle mushrooms, and a cosmopolitan art on display in famous murals and Hollywood heavyweights. by John (Between Nov. 7 and Dec. 10, you corn dashi emulsion). Between this relatively small city. Baldessari, La can see the world premier of the hotels, the food, shows, and Intimate, sophisticated, bold, Valencia Hotel, SUMMER: The Donna Summer shopping, La Jolla offers a adventurous, and California mel- kayaking La surprisingly sophisticated low—the words could describe La Jolla Cove, Musical, by director Des McAnuff Grace and and choreographer Sergio Trujillo, experience for a beachside resort. Jolla as much as they do Grace Frankie on the the Tony-winning team behind We spent our final morning and Frankie. As Fonda and Tom- beach, and The Jersey Boys.) absorbed in a walking tour of the lin, the titular heroes of the show Birch Aquarium Murals of La Jolla, commissioned prepare for yet another season at Scripps The Grand Colonial is lush, by the Athenaeum Music & Arts (Netflix has renewed a fourth sea- and what was once Peck’s Library and the La Jolla son for 2018), I’m going to get to father’s pharmacy inside the Community Foundation. During La Jolla as much as possible hotel (back when pharmacies the guided tour, curator Lynda before the rest of the country real- had soda fountains and ice cream Forsha shares the history of each izes what a gem it is. parlors) is now one of the best mural, introducing the artist and restaurants in San Diego, hands inspiration behind each image. down. NINE-TEN’s farm-to- The Art Advisory Committee, table focus on seasonally fresh comprised of the heads of the ARMCHAIR items pays off here—every egg major visual arts organizations TRAVELING Check here before you book. feels freshly plucked from a in La Jolla, first commissioned chicken’s nest. artists Roy McMakin and Kim MarineRoom.com Lunching socialites and aging MacConnel to adorn local Nine-Ten.com fashionistas swig martinis with buildings in 2010. Subsequent LaValencia.com shopping bags by their sides (from CafeLarueLaJolla.com artworks have been printed on LaJollaByTheSea.com the Rodeo Drive-style shopping vinyl and installed on billboard- LaJollaPlayhouse.org and beauty salons nearby), but like structures. Each work is on MuralsOfLaJolla.com “Mercy of the Chef” prix-fixe view for a minimum of two TheGrandeColonial.com

COURTESY LA VALENCIA (LA VALENCIA); DENNIS MILLETTE/SANDIEGO.ORG (KAYAKING); MILLETTE/SANDIEGO.ORG(KAYAKING); DENNIS VALENCIA); (LA VALENCIA LA COURTESY FRANKIE) & (GRACE MOSELEY/NETFLIXMELISSA )AQUARIUM); (BIRCH WARNEKE GENE menu dinners are the main years and has been generously

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