Behind the Palisades

AN AUTOBIOGRAPHY

By George Simpson McTavish CHIEF TRADER Hudson's Bay Company

Published by MISS EVELYN GURD on behalf of her sister, the late Mrs. Lillian McTavish. widow of the author, Mr. G. S. McTavish.

Distributed by GRAY'S PUBLISHING CANADA BOX 718, SIDNEY, B.C. By Arrangement

Copyright 1963

COLONIST PRINTERS LIMITED VICTORIA, B.C.

GEORGE SIMPSON McTAVISH u.J u -> ~ u.J (/) u.J > f­ u <( z 0 :r:: (/) > <( f- (.) ~ z 0 (/) c.. ~ (/) u.J 0 0::: 0 u.J 0 FOREWORD

This book deals with salient features of the Hudson's Bay Company, expounds its fundamental principles of organization, and describes the internal working of the system. This done partly by the method of exposition, partly by giving illustrative examples, in the life and character of individuals, in character episodes and incidents.

A notable feature of the work is its contribution to geography, botany, meteorology, ethnology, dietetics, physchology (normal and morbid).

There is also running through the book a strong insistence upon the educational value of discipline, and along with this an exposition of the author's philosophy of life.

By MR. S. E. LAING, Late Superintendent of Schools, Manitoba. NON OBLITUS (Not Forgotten)

"Oft in the stilly night Ere slumber's chain has bound me Fond memory brings the light Of other days around me; The smiles, the tears Of boyhood's years The words of love then spoken; The eyes that shone Now dimm' d and gone The cheerful hearts now broken!"

-MOORE.

The aspect of external objects is a mysterious con­ ductor corresponding to the fibres of memory-it makes them awaken, sometimes in spite of ourselves; and when once this thread is touched, like Ariadne's, it leads into a labyrinth of thoughts, where one is lost in following that shadow of the past, which is called Recollection.

-DC.\IAS. TABLE OF CONTENTS Chapter Page I. A Preliminary ______------1 II. Fort Ch urchilL______7 III. Fort Prince of Wales______11 IV. Fort Prince of Wales-Hearne, La Perouse and Thompson______16 V. From Churchill to York Factory______21 VI. York Factory ------24 VII. Fort Bourbon-Nelson River-York Factory ------3 3 VIII. Ship Leaves-Fall Hunting and Other Experiences, Chiefly Mosquitoes______3 6 IX. Fall Incidents and Preparation______40 X. "Made Beaver" and Pro Pelle Cutem______45 XI. Indians ------4 8 XII. Discipline and Precautions______51 XIII. Discipline of Organization-Forethought- Conservation ------5 5 XIV. Winter's Work ______60 xv. December-Mail Time and Indians______63 XVI. Christmas ___ ------6 6 XVII. Bishop John Harden______7 4 XVIII. Letters ______------__ _ 7 7 XIX. Christmas and Mainly Dogs______80 xx. Packing at the Depot______8 3 XXI. Hunting and Side Trips______8 6 XXII. Spring-Hunting-A Medley of Experiences ------9 2 XXIII. Going up the Nelson After Whales______9 7 XXIV. General Review of Summer Work- Arrival of Annual Ship______101 XXV. 1881-Fall Goose Hunt and Mainly Swanson______IO 3 XXVI. Continuation of 18 81-Going to Churchill 10 6 XXVII. At Churchill______---- 113 XXVIII. Mainly Personal Conclusions, and Esquima ux ------__ 118 XXIX. Marble Island Venture-More Esquimaux ____ 122 XXX. To Marble Island______12 6 TABLE OF CONTENTS-(Continued) Chapter Page XXXI. Ouligbuck and Other Matters______13 3 XXXII. Marble Island ______------13 7 XXXIII. Homeward Bound ______------140 XXXIV. My First Walrus Hunt ______------14 3 XXXV. The W alms . . . Inter Alia______149 XXXVI. Trip to Marble Island and Closing In of Winter ------15 2 XXXVII. Solitude ------______15 5 XXXVIII. Fighting It Out______------160 XXXIX. George Lindsay's Wedding- Mrs. Spencer's Departure______164 XL. Fall ------16 8 XLI. The Wintering of the "Ocean Nymph" ______173 XLII. A Blade of Grass-Food for Critics ______177 XLIII. Spring and Summer, 1884- Dcath of Spanish______179 XLIV. Arrival of "Neptune" with the H.B. Expedition; and "Cam Owen"______18 2 XLV. Winter Again at the Factory ______187 XL VI. Captain Borden-Bucks Cold Ice______190 XL VII. Rev. Joseph Lofthouse's Wedding on the "Alert" and Reminiscences______194 XL VIII. A Hard Winter Trip with the Packet______197 XLIX. The Loss of "Cam Owen", 1886 ______204 L. Last Winnipeg Conference, 1887- Commissioner Wrigley ------2 0 9 LI. Main I y White Whales______210 LIi. Fort Occurrences, 18 8 7-8______214 LIii. Samples of Hun ting, 18 8 7______215 LIV. In Charge of Churchill______2 2 3 L V. Closing the Record-Transportation ______229 L VI. Good-Bye to the Old Life ______236 L VII. The Parting of the Ways ______239 L VIII. Paying One's Debts ______241 LIX. The "250th Anniversary of the H.B. Co. Celebration'' ------2 44 LX. Values and the Law of Compensation- The Reward______24 7 CHAPTER I

A Preliminary

in L GEORGE SIMPSON McT A VISH left school birthday, Stro1:1~ess, Orkney Islands, shortly after my fifteenth which belonged and Joined the good ship "Prince of Wales", Moose Factory, to the Hudson's Bay Company, and sailed for James Bay, the southern part of Hudson Bay. care in the The Hudson's Bay Company exercised great and mates on selection of their Captains, retaining the masters to the Hudson pay all the year round, although the voyage the retention Bay lasted only five or six months-thus ensuring of capable ice navigators. "Prince of Captain Henry Bishop was in command of the vessel with her Wales" a 500 ton barque, a three masted rigged. His foremast square rigged, and mizen mast schooner after year b" name was a familiar one in Stromness, as year for his ship, paid his annual visit, took in fresh provisions the residents recruits for the Hudson's Bay Ports, entertained of the Company on board, and upheld the hospitable traditions an agreeable of Adventurers. An experienced ice navigator with and goodwill of manner, fond of a joke he had the confidence came in contact his employers, and the respect of all who ever or sailed with him. Hudson's In 1878 there were two vessels bound for the Moose Factory Bay, the "Prince of Wales", Captain Bishop, for barque, Captain - and the "Ocean Nymph", a smaller Nymph" McPherson, bound for York Factory. The "Ocean reached Hudson got away before us, and it was not till we The ice in the Straits that we saw and "spoke" to her again. in due time the Straits was not particularly obstructive and Mr. Samuel K. anchor was dropped outside Moose River. came on board Parson, the officer in charge of Moose Factory lightened in the for letters. manifest, etc. The Cargo was too shallow to schooner "Martin" as the Moose River was for the "Prince permit a nearer approach than the roadsteads of Wales". 1 Dr. Haydon and Donald Gillies, an apprentice clerk, left the ship here, and loading the furs collected from Little Whale River, Fort George, Rupert's House, Albany, etc., with all diligence we took on for the return trip. Mrs. Harden, wife of the Bishop of Moosonee, with her two sons, Dr. John Horden, Jr., Bertie and her youngest daughter Beatrice, two little girls, Agnes Cotter and Georgie Parson also accompanied her, bound for the old country schools. The return trip to the English Channel was uneventful. We reached London in October, and scattered to our different homes. On the 29th October, 1878, I entered John S. Copeland's law office as a temporary adjunct thereto, my voyage to Hudson Bay having taken less than four months. The friendships formed in that time have ever been a source of grateful remembrance and cheer during the loneliness of years. George Harvey was on board on the return trip. We corres­ ponded till his death in Lo<; Angeles, November 6th, 1926, but before he died we had the supreme happiness of meeting each other at Los Angeles in August, 19 26. After several months excellent training in Mr. John Copeman' s Law Office I decided to return to Canada; the Agreement I signed with the Hudson's Bay Company on the 18th June, 1879, embodied what the Honorable Company expected from its servants, also the remuneration for their services. If it re~ds rather a one-sided bargain in the year 19 2 8, and was not worth legally the paper it was engraved upon, as John S. Copeman informed me, when I proudly showed him the all-important document, yet every man performed his duty to himself religiously carrying out his obligations to the letter. On the other hand, the value derived from one's services cannot be gauged by mere pounds, shillings and pence, as will be shown later. The board "according to the custom of the country" was something, if meager at times, and this must not be over­ looked, that we were supposed to be fed and housed. The Agreement was witnessed by an old schoolfellow, Arthur Robertson, who was the chief clerk in the National Bank of Scotland, and who later became Secretary to Mr. Wrigley, Chief Commissioner in Canada, at Winnipeg. In the same bank was another schoolfellow, James I. Loutit, and I mention him as we three settled down :finally in British Columbia, and fought all our battles over again at each other's :fireside in Victoria and Vancouver for many years. till I alone was left.

2 I was assigned to the "Ocean Nymph", Capt. John McPherson, of whom an amusing description as mate, is given in Isaac Cowie's "The Company of Adventurers". Isaac Cowie left Stromness in 1867, bound for York Factory, and the record of his voyage although twelve years earlier, shows the continuity of service so characteristic of the Hudson's Bay Company's accomplishment to pick and keep their employees whether on land or sea, in the persons of Captain Bishop, McPherson, and even the old Bosun Aitchison, who were still on deck literally. Capt. Bishop must have had over thirty years' experience in navigating Hudson Strait and Bay, and with other Captains his name was a household word in Stromness. It was a simple duty and a great pleasure to make a call on the "Prince of Wales", and the warmth of the greeting I received, though I was only a boy, still keeps its remembrance fresh of faithful friends and capable gentlemen who have long since crossed the bar. The names of these later Vikings, Captains James Heard, Bishop, McPherson, Hawes and Barfield, are mentioned to pay a tribute to that body of silent, patient, persevering, hardy workers who sailed the deep, and braved the danger in the shape of ice, inhospitable rocky and low shores, imperfectly charted, far from home and friends unheralded, but appreciated by a few outcasts from civilization. Their rugged tanned faces seen once a year was salvation from isolation, manna to the soul, weary and hungering for a friendly face, cheerful word of greeting, and news from the outside world. Strict disciplinarians they needed to be when danger threatened, and knowledge was power. They were not unkindly, far from it. Warm-hearted, perhaps a little brusque in manner in some cases, they had the confidence of men and could be relied on. What more can be said in their honor? The sailing ships have ceased to call at Stromness, the! last place of call before leaving for the Hudson Bay, the old order has changed, and like many another chapter in the history of the Adventurers, has given way to avenues for speedier connection and development. The "Ocean Nymph" was a smaller vessel than the "Prince of \Vales" and her cabin accommodation was not so good. However as the only passengers were the Reverend George S. Winter and his newly wedded wife, assigned by the Church Missionary Society for duty among the Cree Indians at York Factory, we were not overcrowded on this occasion. Once

3 again, with cargoes and passengers aboard, the good ships "Prince of Wales" and "Ocean Nymph" saluted and sailed through Hoy Sound, bidding adieu to the "Old Man of Hoy". and meeting the swell of the Atlantic on her way back to Canada. The "Ocean Nymph" could roll, so much so that some of thei sailors were sea-sick for a day or two, as we struck a little bad weather after leaving Stromness. We lost sight of the "Prince of Wales" and had a fair run till we came to Cape Farewell, the South Point of Greenland, when we experienced a following howling gale. We entered Hudson Strait on the 25th July, 1879, and passed through the Strait on the 5th August. This corres­ ponded nearly with the time of the previous year, when the "Prince of Wales" entered 27th July, and passed through on the 5th August. On both occasions there was not much ice to contend with, and by taking the Northern side of the Strait we became practically free from observation. One night, while somewhat becalmed near the upper Savage Islands a couple of Esquimaux came to the ship in their Kayaks. A Kayak is a narrow sealskin covered canoe, coming sharply to a point at both ends, the frame-work being of bone and wood strips ingeniously put together, with only one aperture whereby an occupant could insert himself. They are so light and buoyant that an inch or two of water is sufficient to float them. The length varies from sixteen to twenty feet, and width from twenty to twenty-four inches, and rounded on the bottom, so that keeping one's equilibrium requires much practice. The double bladed paddle acts as a balancing pole on the out-rigger principle of South Sea canoes, besides being the means of propulsion. An Esquimaux balancing himself in his Kayak on the crest of a huge white curling breaking wave is a beautiful sight, it is done so perfectly, amid alarming conditions as they upset so readily. Preparations were made to receive the Esquimaux and do a little trading. First a gang plank was lowered over the ship's side, just above the water and close enough to the Kayak. The "Bosun" was chosen trader, from his supposed knowledge of dealing with the Esquimaux, and the first proceeding was to placate the savage with hard biscuit and molasses, after having rather unceremoniously lifted him out of his Kayak on to the gang plank. Axes, knives, tobacco, and a few other articles were then lowered to the "Bosun" and the trading began by

4 the "Bosun" calling out "Chimo", the Esquimaux word of greeting and friendliness, inserting his arm in the Kayak through the manhole and taking whatever things he could locate. In this case the principal "returns" were walrus tusks, with a few white fox skins. The trade was a lopsided proposition, as the Bosun, with every "Chimo" and keeping a wary eye on the Esquimaux should danger threaten, extracted the contents of the Kayak. Meanwhile the Esquimaux, busily employed in absorbing biscuit and molasses to his soul's content smiled amid his luxurious repast at the equally stout old Bosun, and viewed the exchange of articles with favour, thinking, possibly, that he was getting the best in value. Be it said that the ship did not take advantage of the Esquimaux, silent, unless for the sound of delighted mastication, acquiescence in trade, but adhered to the old motto "Pro pelle Cutem", "Skin for Skin", or in modern paraphrase "Dollar for Dollar". When the Esquimaux entered his Kayak at midnight and paddled away in the Arctic twilight, he was apparently satisfied. supremely happy at having the opportunity to get rid of his walrus tusks, and to acquire the more highly prized steel articles in exchange. This was my first experience of a primitive trade with the Esquimaux. and if complete satisfaction on both sides was any augury of success, then my introduction had an auspicious beginning, and was an example of the results of fair dealing. It was rather unkind, however, to frighten the Esquimaux as we did, by sending up a rocket, though in honor of their visit. The increased speed of their Kayaks showed their anxiety to get away as fast as possible, from this fearful thing which hissed. emitted fire, and made such a noise in explosion in the heavens. While we did not, comparatively speaking, encounter much ice, there were sufficient quantities to demonstrate the dangers of navigation, excite the feeling of awe and admiration when approaching an ice field, especially in the evening when the sun's setting rays added glory to the pinnacles and different formations. Hudson Bay vessels were strengthened to meet and force their way through ice floes, and to withstand the pressure. Combined with the skillful knowledge of the officers, the handling of the ship excited admiration, as the "Ocean Nymph" was forced into the floes with backed foreyards to lessen the first impact. Standing 0111 the ice-bridge which 5 extended beyond the sides of the vessel, the officers could see clear ahead and make their calculations with wider vision, aided by the reports from the man in the crowsnest, where altitude gave greater advantage in detecting the lanes of water in the ice pack. The variations of movements through the ice field cannot be described in detail, but the spectacle of fighting one's way through against the forces of Nature, leave indelible impressions. Some very large icebergs were seen and a wide berth given them. A polar bear or two, and seals were also sighted on the .floes, but were unmolested owing to distance and the difficulty of approach. Grampus whales showed their massive forms occasionally, the vibration of their sounding being easily notice­ able on our ship. The sea was dead calm without a single ripple, and we could see fathoms in its crystal depths. There was an upper breath of wind, however, which just filled the sails, and the sight of the "Nymph" gliding through the placid water of the Straits, with hardly a ripple in her wake, and the white clouds of canvas from Royal to main sails drawing to the full showing the beautiful curves and bellied outlines, made a memor­ able spectacle from our small boat. It conveyed the supreme conception of the Argosies which made Britain what she is from maritime conquest. It was a lone barque on a lone sea, with God's sunlight to guide and glorify its existence.

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6 CHAPTER II

Fort Churchill

The run across the Bay to Fort Churchill was pleasant though uneventful, and on the 10th day of August, 1879, we sighted the bleak rocks which guard both sides of the Churchill River. A wooden beacon forty feet high augmented by a thirty foot pole on Battery Point, indicated the river's entrance, and the near end of our voyage. The Reverend G. S. Winter and his wife were especially excited over the event, and watched the arrival of the sailing pilot boat with some doubts, as during the voyage Captain McPherson had been at great pains to impress on them the blood and scalp seeking tendencies of the Cree Indians and Esquimaux. Hence when the pilot boat came alongside they were almost afraid to look over the side, as a flight of poisoned arrows was the least, Captain McPherson told them, they could expect by way of reception. However they were there to give up their lives if necessary, so, to their credit they braved the situation and peered over the side. The first man they saw in the barbaric land they had come to, was Robert Bell, Bachelor of Science (Can tab) LLD., I.S.0.M.D., etc., etc., connected with the Geological Survey of Canada, and many other learned societies. When Mr. John Spencer, the officer in charge of Churchill climbed the rope ladder and reached the deck, we were introduced to him, and he in turn introduced us to Dr. Bell. Both gentlemen had long beards. and were of fine appearance, though their clothes exhibited traces of camping out proclivities and service. George McPherson, a Shetlander, was the only other white man in the small boat, the balance of the crew being of varied nationalities. All hands clambered out of the small boat, and climbed on deck, and the boat was then fastened astern. With the ruins of old Fort Prince of Wales on our starboard, and Battery Point on our port, the "Ocean Nymph" was piloted by George McPherson to her berth opposite a whale-oil

7 refinery summer station. The anchor dropped to our great content, though the surrounding country was rocky, bleak, almost treeless and uninviting. Mr. John Spencer, during the process of unloading goods from London, reloading furs. whale oil, etc., invited us to Fort Churchill four or five miles farther up the river from the whaling station and vessel anchorage. The name of Fort Churchill is very imposing, indicating a defensive place. A more dilapidated hamlet could hardly be found anywhere. Originally built, after the capture of Fort Prince of Wales about 1782, it is situated at the foot of a rocky prominence, and had wooden pickets as stockades, surrounding the few houses in an oblong shape, enclosing probably less than two acres of ground. An idea of the size of the place can be visualized when the buildings are numerated. They were all of one storey because of the scarcity of wood, the limit of trees being only forty miles Northward. The master's house, carpenter shed, packing room, powder magazine (stone walls with lead covered roof), two little cabins of one room each, a house for married people divided in three or four sections, the trading store ( also lead roofed), and the provision shed. A small blacksmith shop about eight or ten feet square completed the establishment. To this list can be added a small galvanized church, the property of the Church Missionary Society, the gift, popularly attributed, of Baroness Burdett-Coutts. The wood pickets or stockades showed altered conditions as they were no longer used for protective purposes. The two ends and north side of the oblong which were standing might as well have been used for firewood for all the good they were. Probably the knowledge of the powder magazine and guns inside the fort made the pickets or stockade formidable to the aboriginal by induction or suggestion. Anyway the pickets were only a tale of bygone days, collecting so much snow when blizzards raged that a person could walk over the top of them on the north side. A narrow sidewalk in the centre was for summer use, snow covering 1t m winter. Two or three hundred yards from the fort was the oil or blubber house, and near it was a small wooden jetty extending into the river (when the tide was at flood) far enough to enable the coast boats to come alongside,

8 discharge or receive cargo. Churchill River is very shallow in front of the fort and the tide recedes for a mile or more showing an extensive mud flat strewn with ice brought boulders. As a permanent structure, of sufficient strength to resist the ice pressure and breaking up of ice in spring could not be built adequately with the means at the fort's disposal, this jetty answered the purpose when the tide served, time not being so important as the difficulty in getting wood to repair damages or make a longer structure. Churchill River is the first on the West side of Hudson Bay from James Bay to break through rock formation. The entrance is given as 1006 yards wide with soundings of fifteen fathoms at low tide. Opposite the whaling shanty, where the "Ocean Nymph" anchored, the depth decreases to four and a half fathoms. While it is possible from this point for a shallow draft vessel drawing seven or eight feet, like the "Nymph", to proceed up the river at high tide as far as Cockles Point, Churchill Harbour may be defined as between these two points. The shores are landlocked with rocky plateaus or ridges from forty feet high on the easterly side to sixty and one hundred and fifty feet high on the westerly side, the width opposite Cockles Point one and a half miles wide with a depth of one and a half fathoms. From Cockles Point to Mosquito Point the river boundaries form a sort of tidal lagoon at high tide, and is about five miles wide opposite the present Fort Churchill. converging again at Mosquito Point where there is a rapid, and the river is confined within a semblance of banks. Dr. Robert Bell had been surveying the Churchill River and years afterwards in August 1909 in his paper "The Hudson Bay Route to Europe" read at the Winnipeg meeting of the British Association stated, "A strong steamer might ascend this at high water, in which case the river might be navigated for about one hundred miles, on to the mouth of the Little Churchill." The steamer would necessarily have to be a stern wheeler. The Churchill River was, without doubt, the chief means of communication with the interior Indians, when the first fort was established, and probably to a much later day, as local names and traditions indicate. For instance "Dramstone Point" above Mosquito Point, gets its name, when the voyageurs made their :first halt on landing, after leaving the fort or post, and had a dram of good Hudson Bay rum,· appreciated and

9 celebrated then, as now. Another place, as indicating the exertion required to stem and surmount the strong current, still carries the euphonius injunction of "Pull and be dammed." So out of the past these names and others, some not polite when parting with opposition traders, open up memories of the former pioneers with human failings and boundless energy, who being dead, yet speak, in no uncertain terms.

I U CHAPTER III

Fort Prince of Wales

The first wooden fort was built in 1718 and was given the name "Prince of Wales". Just where it was located it is difficult to say, as there is no local tradition of the original site. If built near the present ruins of the second or stone Fort Prince of Wales, the site could not have been actuated from any desire of comfort, the small. low, narrow peninsula being exposed to the warring elements of nature, destitute of trees, or shelter even from the rocks. A few years later the Company undertook to build a fortification on a larger scale to safeguard what it designed to be its principal entrepot from the French, as well as from the Indians. "A massive thirty-four foot side foundation was begun at Churchill from the plans of military engineers who had served under Marlborough, and after many vicissitudes, in 1734, Fort Prince of Wales, one of the strongest forts on the continent was reared at the mouth of the Churchill River. It was the original intention to have the walls forty-two feet thick at their foun­ dations, but in the building these were reduced to twenty-five feet. It was afterwards found, however, that there was a tendency to sink when cannon were fired frequently from the walls, so one section was forthwith pulled down, and rebuilt according to the original plan. Three of the bastions had arches for store houses, forty-feet three inches by ten feet, and in the Fourth Bastion was built a stone magazine, twenty-four feet long and ten feet wide in the clear, with a passage to it, through the gorge of the bastion twenty-four feet long, and four feet wide. Inside the fort there was a dwelling and office building; one of the buildings being one hundred and eighty-one feet. six inches long. by thirty-three feet wide, with side walls seventeen feet high, and the roof covered with lead."*

*Hudson's Bay Company's Calendar shewing "Fort Prince of Wales" copied from a steel engraving by Samuel Hearne.

11 Professor George Bryce in "The Remarkable History of the Hudson's Bay Company", quotes a description of Forts on the Bay in 1771, by Andrew Graham, for many years a factor of the Hudson's Bay Company. "Prince of Wales" Fort-on a peninsula at the entrance of the Churchill River. Most Northern settlement of the Company. A stone fort, mounting forty-two cannon, from six to twenty-four pounders. Opposite on the south side of the river, Cape Merry Battery, mounting six twenty-four pounders with lodge house and powder magazine. The river 1006 yards wide. A ship can anchor six miles above the fort. Tides carry salt water twelve miles up the river. No springs near: drink snow water nine months of the year. In summer keep three draught horses to haul water and draw stones to finish building of forts." Thus it will be seen that Fort "Prince of Wales" was "reared" in 1734 and the process of building was still in progress in 1771 if the records arc correct. At the main entrance on one of the dressed stones is the inscription: Hy. Robinson 1733 the earliest date noted among several. similarly chiselled records on the outer front walls. GUILFORD LONG WHORREY TAYLOR of Rotherhithe. Fecit 1741. 1754. Wm. Irwin. 1752. Henry Robinson. 1753. Jno. Paterson. 1754. W. Matthews of Rotherhithe. 1755. These names have a bearing on constructive work. See Tuttle's "Our North Land". The erection of such a fortress was a gigantic enterprise and seems today to be unwarranted, when we consider what there was to guard in the immediate vicinity, but there have been many reasons, such as the French opposition and wars, the desire to forestall others in tapping or opening up the interior, obtain command of the situation, and to carry out certain obligations in the Company's charter as to exploration and defence. The ruins of Fort Prince of Wales stand today, and will for many long years to come, as a memorial to perseverance in construction, in a lone land, where communication with the Mother Country was had only once a year, and consequent

12

Cl z <(

~ 0 0 e::: c.Jz Cl <( r-e::: ...J ...J I u e::: ::i ::c u r­ e::: 0 LI.. isolation tested the physical and mental endurance of the builders. It marks an important era in the history of the Hudson's Bay Company, and as one contemplates the cheerless surroundings at that time, there is unfolded a romantic glamour and admiration which years cannot efface, for the able men who engineered, carried on its construction hewed their names on stone and history's page, explored unknown lands, pioneered in verity, setting an example of faithful service to King and Country, the annals of which are second to none. Built in the form of a square, each side 316 feet long, with walls twenty feet high, faced with dressed stone to a thickness of six feet, reinforced to provide mounting and operation of the cannon to about twenty feet, self contained stone houses, magazine, stores, dwellings, offices, Governor's house, cook room-a little world in itself on a low narrow spit or peninsula, formed between Button's Bay and the mouth of the Churchill River. It commanded all approach from sea and for a consider­ able distance landwards, without an obstacle intervening. So stood in its massive solemnity "Fort Prince of Wales", the sentinel of a lone land. The dates on Joseph Robson's (seemingly engineer of the plan) drawing of "Prince of Wales" Fort are given as 1733-47. Pathfinders of the West. Page 266. Agnes C. Laut. Joseph Robson was stationed at "Fort Prince of Wales" for several years between 1733 and 1747, and wrote "An Account of Six Years' Residence in Hudson Bay", London, 1752. About 17 46 he made a survey of the Harbour and River for ten miles up from its mouth, and drafted a map which was published in 1752.* The final chapter of its utility as a fort was written when Jean Francois Galaup De La Perouse, in command of three French war vessels anchored in Button's Bay, August, 1782, and demanded its surrender from Samuel Hearne, the officer in charge. Hearne cannot be accused of want of courage or resourcefulness when he complied and handed over the fortress keys. His complement of men was insufficient for defence, for although he had forty cannon, he had only about forty employees, therefore the odds of vessels carrying large crews of several hundred trained men, and a large armament of guns­ La Perouse's flagship "Le Steptre" carried seventy-four guns-

*Hudson's Bay Company's Calendar shewing "Fort Prince of Wales" copied from a steel engraving by Samuel Hearne. 13 were too great to make any attempts at resistance. An absolute slaughter was thus avoided. La Perouse lost no time in taking the valuable furs, broke down portions of the walls, dismounted the cannon rendering them ineffective by breaking the trunnions and muzzles as can be seen to this day. He demolished and set :fire to the houses, as the burnt ends of wood jutting out of remaining walls testify. Coming so far from France, he was not likely to leave anything pertaining to his mission undone, and as he carried the garrison or part of them away as prisoners of war, we can assume that the present ruins are very much as he left them, making due allowance for climatic seasonal condi­ tions, and the passing of 146 years. t It is generally supposed that the French Government com­ pensated the Hudson's Bay Company for the destruction of the Bay forts, but while France agreed to do so the debt was never paid. Tradition has it that the crews of La Perouse's ships had scurvy badly, but if the fortress had :fired their cannon and made any show of resistance, La Perouse would have himself come to terms. This seems improbable as the ships could not have been very long away from France. Again it is said the Indians offered to :fight, but Hearne declined their assistance. The reason of Matonabbee's-the Indian chief-self destruction when he learnt the catastrophe which had befallen his friends­ he was absent at the time of capitulation-with the gloomy prospect of a hard winter without supplies ahead of him and his people, may have been actuated by this refusal of his people's aid. After the destruction of Fort "Prince of Wales" twelve men embarked in a small boat intending to go to Fort York. What was their fate is unknown, as neither boat nor men were seen afterwards. Tradition also described Samuel Hearne's dress, consisting of a long red swallow tailed coat, with bright or gilt buttons, a cocked hat, knee breeches, and a sword. In an etching made by himself of ''Fort Prince of Wales'' appearing in Professor Bryce's book, page 108, published in 1900, verification of this oral tradition can be seen. Mr. John Spencer told me these traditions, also that La Perouse landed his sickly forces, headed notably by tJ. B. Tyrell "Report on the Doobaunt, Kasan and Ferguson Rivers, 1897". tT~e Sc;ptre carrying seventy-four guns, the Astarti and the Engageante th1rty-s1x guns each. The vessels also carried four field pieces. two marters and three hundred bombshells.

14 an energetic drummer, in a little sandy bay. within easy range of the Fort guns, fifteen of which could have been brought to bear on this one spot. Now John Spencer's father-also named John-had been at Fort Churchill about 1818, and was accountant at York Factory in 1820, so that forty years had only elapsed since the capture and destruction of "Fort Prince of Wales". With a few books, eight or nine months long dreary winter, the subjects most likely and naturally to be discussed would be local happen­ ings, hence memory would retain events, or what to us would appear as long ago or ancient history, as more of a yesterday's occurrence. There was little to distract attention outside the annual arrival of the ship, or stray packets, so the story of such an important epoch is connected, and retained its freshness, with the Spencers-father and son-as the connecting links.

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15 CHAPTER IV

Fort Prince of Wales HEARNE, LA PEROUSE, and THOMPSON

Samuel Hearne, who was in charge of Fort "Prince of Wales" at its surrender in 17 8 2, had distinguished himself as an explorer. Born in London in 1745, he entered the Navy before he was ten years old. At the end of the Seven Years' War he joined the service of the Hudson's Bay Company, and was stationed at Fort "Prince of Wales" when Moses Norton, the Indian autocrat received instructions from London to discover unknown rivers, lands, rumoured copper mines, and the North West Passage. With Hearne's nautical experience, the selection of carrying out these designs, fell on him. In November, 1769, he made the first attempt to discover the Coppermine River, accompanied by two white servants and four Indians. The Indians deserted him, when some distance up the Seal River, after delaying his progress as much as possible, and depriving him of guns, ammu­ nition, etc. This necessitated his return to the fort on the 11th December. On the 23rd February, 1770, his second attempt began with four Indians, two being Crees, but with no white servants or employees, in search of the "Far Away Metal River". He remained after travelling westward for the balance of the Winter, at Lake Sheth-nanei, and in the Spring continued northward to Baralzone, near the edge of the woods on June 1st. On the 30th June he arrived on the banks of the Kazan River, above Yath-Kyed Lake, at a place called Cathawhackaga. Meeting a number of Indians hunting deer, he accompanied them, as they wandered backwards and forward "working very slowly towards the North West, around the north side of Doobaunt Lake, until the season became so far advanced that his guide refused to go through to the Coppermine River that year. The Indians with whom he was travelling also plundered him of almost all that he had in his possession, and to complete his

16 discomfiture, his sextant had been blown over by the wind and shattered. He therefore decided to return to Churchill (Fort Prince of Wales). Keeping to the West of Doobaunt Lake he appears to have crossed the Telzoa River, a short distance above it, perhaps at a bluff of small black spruce, where we camped on the 6th August, 1893, and the Kazan River, a short distance above Angikuni Lake. On the 25th October he reached the edge of the woods. The day before he reached Seal River, he crossed an exceedingly stony piece of ground, possibly of a moraine character. "On November 25th, he arrived at Fort Prince of Wales, after having been absent eight months and twenty-two days, on a fruitless, or at least unsuccessful journey." (J. B. Tyrell). At his age, twenty-five years, his determination to succeed must have been keen, although he had endured many hardships and disappointments. These were thrust aside, when a third prospect presented itself. This was the guidance of Matonabbee, the Chippewyan chief, lately returned from a trading visit to the Athabasca Indians. On the 7th December, 1770, therefore, after a couple of weeks' rest and preparation, Samuel Hearne made his third venture and the 12th July* or 15th Julyt 1771, saw him at the Coppermine River. The band of Indians who had sought the barren grounds to intercept the annual deer or caribou migration, perpetrated a massacre of an Esquimaux encampment, near the mouth of the Coppermine River, which Hearne could not prevent, although he tried to induce Matonabbee to desist. But when scores of Indians went on a warpath, a single white man was powerless to check their old time tendencies, and as the Esquimaux were a harmless people, unarmed and surprised in the attack, no wonder Hearne shed tears over the slaughter of the Innocents. Very few people can realize Hearne's position, helplessness and agony, or the slim tenure of his own life at that time. When the following day-17th July, 1771, he stood on the shore of the Arctic Ocean, and had reached his goal, but at a price which must have cost him bitter thoughts in his great moment of achievement, the page of history was inscribed with his name, as the first solitary white man to make the overland journey to the Arctic Ocean, in America. Once an objective is reached, the desire to get back incites speed, so the ascent of the Coppermine became almost a panic in

*A. C. Laut. tJ. B. Tyrell. 17 their eagerness to leave the desolation behind them. In August the Indians had joined their wives, and the progress would be less rapid with the impedimenta of baggage, meat. dogs, and children. Hearne reached Lake Athabasca on Christmas Eve. In Spring the Athabasca Indians started for "Fort Prince of Wales" with their furs, and on the 30th June, 177 2, Samuel Hearne arrived at the stone fort in their company, after eighteen months absence. Such a record any man in the Hudson's Bay Company's service would be proud of, and when less than a year later, Moses Norton died. Hearne received promotion as Governor of the Fort. Followed then ten years of comparatively routine duty. though in 1774, he established Cumberland House. Taken prisoner by La Perouse in 178 2, he was carried to France. He evidently was released, returned to Fort "Prince of Wales". and assisted in starting the present Fort Churchill, as records in connection with David Thompson indicate. He was officer in charge in 17 84. Three years later, 17 8 7, he reached England, dying in 1792, aged forty-seven years. At Sloops Cove, two miles above the old fort can be seen this inscription chiselled in the rocks: SL Hearne July /1767. Some two hundred yards from the East side of Fort "Prince of Wales", on an outcropping of rock are the words, "Fortes fortuna juvat"- (Fortune befriends the Brave), but there is no indication who chiselled this lasting memorial, though from the direction and position of the rock one can surmise that an occu­ pant of the fort. probably Hearne himself, had relieved the monotony of existence in the early Spring, when the top of the rock emerged from its Winter covering, to delineate his sentiments. and to attract attention in years to come. Jean Francois Galoup De La Perouse was born in Alby, in the Department of the Tarn, France. He was appointed mid­ shipman in the French Navy, May 175 6. As long as "Fort Prince of Wales" exists in stone and memory, his name will be linked with its capture in 1782. He sailed from Brest, August 17 8 5 to explore the Pacific. On the 7th September, 178 8, he sailed from Botany Bay, and was not heard of again until the wreckage of his two vessels, the Broussole, and the Astralabe were found on the island of Vanikow, near Santa Cruz, the

18 chief island of the Archipelago named after him.* Captain Dillon found relics in 1827, and D'Urville the following year satisfied himself by further evidence, erected a monument to the lost navigators. To men like La Perouse and Cook, all nations are debtors. One other name is attached to Fort Churchill which deserves commemoration, as no doubt the initial experience of David Thompson, under Samuel Hearne, during the Winter of 1784-5 created a lasting influence on his character of an explorer, and the desire of emulation. Born at Westminster on the 30th April. 1770, he was educated at the Grey Coat School in that town, where he was taught navigation, the acquisition of which science resulted in his selection by the Hudson's Bay Company, on a seven years' apprenticeship. He joined the Hudson's Bay Company's ship "Prince Rupert" in May, 1784, and reached Fort Churchill in the beginning of September. This fort had been built as a substitute to the dismantled and destroyed Fort "Prince of Wales", and is the Fort Churchill of the present day. In September 1785 he was transferred to York Factory, which he left July 1786, proceeding via Hayes River up the North Saskatchewan. He died at Longueille, 10th February, 185 7. J. B. Tyrell, who edited Thompson's "Narratives of his Explorations" classed him as "the greatest practical land geographer that the world has produced." On the 3rd June, 1769, the Royal Society of London, desired to observe the transit of Venus over the Sun. Two astronomers Wales and Dymond were conveyed to Fort "Prince of Wales" by the Hudson's Bay Company, and their usual hospitality was afforded them. The observations were successful. ~1r. Spencer and I witnessed a transit of Venus at Fort Churchill on the 6th December, 1882. It is a strange anomaly that one who has actually resided in the locality of Fort "Prince of Wales" and Fort Churchill for eight years should be indebted for much information to persons who had little or no personal knowledge of these places, yet whose opportunities of searching out past records made their work valuable for reference, and improvement of understanding. being written with the pens of accomplished ready writers. One can but attempt to embody some details of one's own experience

*Joseph Conrad "Geography and Some Explorers". National Geographical Magazine. March 1924.

19 in minor form, as a labour of love and remembrance for the old places, for ancient landmarks should be preserved, and the spirit of the old time Adventurers Trading into the Hudson Bay be kept alive. It would be well for the stability probity and progress of the world, if the present generation of young people could understand the aspect of life these pioneers of Canada faced, dared and conquered, amid privation, desolation and isolation, yet carrying on valiantly, silently as in the silent places, with courage and fidelity, respectful of themselves, and esteemed by their superior officers. Denied the amusements and pleasures of our city life of today, yet the joy of healthful living was theirs, and while they lived and worked hard, keeping late hours on the trail, ( travelling day or night when necessity commanded) they did not pay the penalty of a quickly arrived at old age, the usual result of present day rate of fast living. The discipline of oneself is the first and foremost lesson to learn, and when acquired the influence for good permeates the world, making it happier and better, and when that objective is attained, the Law of Compensation is maintained and verified.

20 CHAPTER V

From Churchill to York Factory

The "Ocean Nymph" was piloted out of Churchill River by George McPherson, on the 17th August, 1879, when the furs, oil, and country produce (including goose feathers and quills), were loaded on board. I little expected I should see Fort Churchill again. As it was the most northern post on the west side of the bay, and not to appearance very inviting, one's thoughts were directed to the more important field York Factory seemed to promise. The conversation at table, enhanced by the richness of Dr. Bell's experience and learning, quickened our interest to an extent that overshadowed the historical significance of the ruins of Fort "Prince of Wales" to our verdant minds. The acquaintance made with Dr. Bell on this occasion developed, by meetings and correspondence in after years, into a lifelong friendship. I became indebted to him for many courtesies and kindnesses. He had the great attribute of making sincere friends by his unassuming engaging cultured manners and disposition. Whenever he returned to the Bay posts, he was a welcomed friend and guest, and looked upon as one of ourselves. With the exception of a small wooden beacon erected on, a small elevation called "Knight's Hill" to the north of Cape Churchill-a long low lying promontory-there is really no other guiding mark between the mouths of the Churchill and Nelson Rivers, so on leaving Churchill, Captain McPherson stood well out to sea, gave the cape a wide berth, sailed south­ ward to Five Fathom Hole, an anchorage annually sought by the Hudson Bay vessels, whose draft did not permit their going up the Hayes River. For ages the Nelson and Hayes Rivers had discharged their silt, sand or gravel, till the approach to either is a immense flat, covered with no great depth of water, hence when Five Fathoms Hole was located on the Hayes River channel, the term Hole was given to it. Five Fathoms Hole is merely a name today, as it in turn has lost its characteristics through the silt. 21 Approaching the land again, a gun was fired occasionally to warn York Factory that their much looked for annual visitor was in the vicinity and needed a pilot. The ship might be out of sight of land, here as flat as a pancake, though no great distance from it, and the gun-shots were usually successful in their purpose. Sometimes "the ship" was seen from the cupola or lookout on the depot building by aid of a good telescope. When the "Cam Owen" under Captain Main arrived in 1884 she was discovered in the late afternoon. The pilot boat was all ready with the crew, so with Mr. James Cowie in charge. and John Smith, pilot. we dropped three miles down the Hayes River, and camped at its mouth, to wait morning, as we could see no sign of the vessel. Before daybreak and with an out-going tide, we set out in quest of the ship, losing sight of land, this not being difficult from the deck or inside of a small boat. Finally we located the "Cam Owen" or rather she located us. The Captain was a most surprised man, asking us where we were going, as he thought we must be lost. He had fired no guns, nor seen land the previous day, and was many miles away at the time we reported having seen him from the factory. He declared it was an impossibility to have picked him up with any telescope, but the fact remains-proved by our presence on the se.1-we did see the ship, probably though in the sky, and strange to say right side up as in the natural mode of sailing. Years afterwards, to verify what might have been considered a figment of one's brain, I wrote John Mowat, who was at York Factory at the time and then the only survivor left who had witnessed the phenomena, and he corroborated by recollections. Looming or suspension, better known as mirage, is frequent at certain seasons of the year, but objects are generally in an inverted condition. In this case, the proof and circumstances were so real. with the "Cam Owen" so far below our horizon, and verified by Caption's position, that a lasting impression was made in our minds. Owing to the low characteristic of the coast line, the captains used to time their arrival so as to approach the land at daybreak. If within the vicinity in the late afternoon, after firing the gun, they generally struck out to sea again for safety, securing more sea room, running in or beating towards the land in the early morning. \\' e were fortunate in not having many hours to wait, our approach having been heard and observed. Our eyes were gladdened by the sight of the coast boat in charge of Mr.

22 John K. McDonald, with John Smith the pilot, and mixed crew of white, Cree Indians and halfbreeds. The heartiness with which the Factory officer welcomed us, on reaching the deck, showed the satisfaction and joy at our arrival. He oozed goodwill and cordiality, and though we were in a sense the connecting link with the home country, and in a measure the cause of his joyful overflow of spirits, yet he also represented the continuity of that life, or national chain, thus minimizing the strangeness we felt on reaching our destination in an otherwise strange land. All our surroundings were new, our imagination acute and fearful as to the "Wilds", yet understanding of a common nationality, evinced by a hearty handshake, and the name of McDonald removed indefiniteness, and bound us together in a confidence which is characteristically Hudson's Bay man's strong attribute and possession. What the arrival of the ship means to those who have been a whole year in exile, and without one, can no doubt be surmised, but the expression and emotion of absolute happiness can alone be fully understood by him or those who have experienced and earned the great reward of realization. Imagine, then, every­ body a mutual admiration society, and everybody gloriously happy; questions of home and questions of the fur traders adventures interchanged with a rush, while letters from home, manifest and other documents were being handed over. Leaving John Smith, the pilot, on board to navigate the "Ocean Nymph" through the sand flats and up river, the coast boat started for the Factory with the all important letters and documents. In former years, vessels like the "Lady Head", "Prince of Wales··. "Prince Rupert", were of deeper draft than the "Ocean Nymph" and had to anchor at Five Fathoms Hole, about seven miles from the Factory, the cargo being discharged in a schooner, which, owing to light draft, could sail up river, opposite the Factory. The return cargo, chiefly furs, light of weight, had to be supplemented by stone ballast, by the same conveyance. Stones were at a premium on the muddy and sandy shores, and diligence was required to keep the supply of ballast up. The "Ocean Nymph" drawing six or seven feet, having a flattened rounded bottom, was enabled to sail up the Hayes River and anchor directly in front of the Factory. And so we came to our haven, 24th August, 18 7 9.

23 CHAPTER VI

York Factory

Fortunately for me, my first view of York Factory, on a bright sunny day, from the vantage deck of the "Ocean Nymph", more than fulfilled my expectations. There was something soothing and reassuring in noting the neatly kept and. painted buildings, as they showed up in a mathematical precision behind the wooden stockade, and one sensed the orderliness, system and importance from the general appearance, without being over impressed or awed by the two cannon which stood on the river's bank in front, and which had saluted us on our arrival to the Nor'West. The present York Factory was built in 1791 and 1792, ( DaYid Thompson assisting in its building in those years), when the old Fort York was abandoned owing to an ice jam in 1790 flooding the land, and also owing to fear that encroach­ ment, or continued carrying away of the river bank by further breakups, would in time reach the foundations and render the fort insecure. The old fort had suffered damage in 1782 when La Perouse captured it, and this may have furnished an additional reason for making the change. The description of the old fort taken from Andrew Graham's account is as follows:* "On the north bank of Hayes River, three miles from the entrance. Famous Nelson River three miles north makes the land between an island. (Memo. Island is correct at the present day, the land forming a projection or more correctly speaking. a neck between the two rivers) . Well built fort of wood, log on log. Four bastions with sheds between, and a breastwork with twelve small carriage guns. Good class of quarters, with double row of strong palisades. On the bank's edge, before the fort, is a half moon battery, of turf and earth, with fifteen cannon, nine pounders. Two miles below the fort, same side, is a battery of ten twelve pounders, with lodge house and powder magazine. These two batteries command the river, but

*Professor Bryce.

24 the shoals and sand banks across the mouth defend us more. No ship comes higher than five miles below the fort. Governed like "Prince of Wales" fort. Complement of men, forty-two. The natives come down from Nelson River to trade. If weather calm they paddle round the point. If not, they carry their furs across. This fort sends home 7,000 to 33,000 made beaver in furs, etc., and a small quantity of white whale oil."* The site of the old fort is below Schooner's Creek, so named because the schooner which conveyed the imports from the deeper draft vessels anchored in Five Fathoms Hole, beyond the mouth of the river, was moored therein during the Winter months, and the river was frozen over. The schooner "Martin" had, the preceding year or two, been sent to Moose Factory to act as tender in discharging the ship there, the shallow depth of the Moose River preventing large seagoing vessels from entering or approaching near the Factory. The present Factory is practically built in a swamp, as the numerous wooden sidewalks testify. The Factory is a square, or nearly so, as defined by the wooden palisade which encloses a space of approximately five acres. The houses therein are laid out with the regularity and purpose which characterized all Hudson's Bay Company's establishments. There were three gates on the river fronting the stockade, the main entrance being in the centre, and the plank walk therefrom leading to the depot, or place where all cargo, with the exception of gunpowder and inflammables, were stored. This building dominated the others, being two stories on all sides, with the front centre three stories, and a cupola or lookout on top. It formed a two hundred foot square, and access to the building was through the front, or its back door, there being only two on the outside walls. Two other doors opened inwardly, into a courtyard, or hollow square. This quadrangle permitted a safe priv.ate open air drying ground, and light from the inside to enter the store rooms more fully. All the lumber was hand whipsawed, and the state of preser­ vation in this, and other buildings was remarkable in its freshness after so many years utility. Looking at the front gate in wards and to the right, were two long one-storied sale shops. To the left were two storied buildings for fur packing and storage purposes, while between these appeared a couple of gardens, enclosed by short pointed pickets. These gardens were made by laying a foundation of

*Professor Bryce. 25 willows on the swampy ground, and bringing earth or soil from up the river. In the garden to the left was a sundial. said to have been installed by Sir John Franklin, when he passed through to the westward in 1818 or 1825. To the right of the depot was the "Summer House" where, in days gone by, the officers from the interior, accompanying the various brigades with the returns of trade, and for their supplies or outfits. were domiciled temporarily. A corresponding house, according to a sketch in 18 5 0 showed to the left of the depot, but had been demolished or moved elsewhere. Behind the depot and to the right was "Bachelor's Hall" or the guardroom, occupied by the unmarried officers or clerks. then the Chief Factor's residence, combining mess room, and the seat of culinary operations, clergyman's house, library or old office­ the belfry and new office made a dividing line between work­ shops-cooperage. blacksmith, tinsmith and carpenters-and men's quarters. these latter extending parallel to the back pickets of the factory. Towards the left side were two storied houses, making one long building, in use by married men of what the navy would class as the petty officer types. Provision shed. ice house. trading rooms were also on the west side, with one or two small cabins or houses. In the northeast corner was the small Anglican Church. which contained a window donated by Lady Franklin, as a memorial to her husband, and a token of gratitude to those who took part in the search for him, after his last fateful voyage in his search for the Nor' West Passage. The description would not be complete of the interior of the factory, if mention was not made of the flagstaff. from whose lofty summit flew the British ensign with the letters H.B.C. emblazoned thereon. Other buildings on the outside of the stockades were, the cattle-shed on the up river side, also dog corral. On the lower or down river, stood a large boat-building shed, where many a York boat, as well as coast boat, had been built in earlier days. An Indian Church of rather imposing appearance, with the regulation steeple, was isolated near Schooner's Creek, and may have been used for worship by voyageurs of the different brigades in Summer, when they camped in its vicinity. The last and farthest away building higher up Schooner's Creek, was the Powder Magazine, built of stone with air-

26 ventilated walls "to keep their powder dry." Here all inflam­ mable explosives were stored, only small quantities of powder being transferred when trading was going on inside the factory. Reminiscences of former stirring times could still be seen in portfires wherewith to set off the little bags or sacks of coarse gun powder for mortars or cannon, also in evidence. Beyond the Magazine was the graveyard, the principal headstone inscription reading- Sacred To the memory of William Sinclair, Esq. Chief Factor Honourable Hudson's Bay Company's service Who died 20th April, 1818 Aged 5 2 years. Behold Thou hast made my days as an hand breadth and my age as nothing before Thee. Verily, every man at his best estate is altogether vanity. Erected as a testimony of affection by his son. "The ramifications of old Governor Sinclair's descendants are wide and varied, so that go where one may in all those regions of Canada and Columbia, the ubiquitous descendants of his family may be found." (Cowie). In the immediate vicinity of the factory there were no trees. though a fringe of scrub tamarac or spruce in the background relieved any appearance of isolation, and being on a fairly high bank of the river, the factory had a look of concentration and solidity, which enabled it to assume the importance of a fenced in city in miniature, and impress the natives. York Factory was the gateway for many years to what is now known as Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta and North Western Districts, and many were the lively scenes enacted there during the Summer, when interior brigades paid their annual visits. The gates were all closed at night, and all precautions taken to maintain order. Red River settlers came this way, explorers have experienced its hospitality, making it their starting point, and it had all the pretensions of a capital. The glorious days in its history were passing in 1879, as about 1870 the transfer of the Head Office in the Northern Department from York Factory to Fort Garry, now Winnipeg, was made, and the trade, outfitting, etc., decreased as easier and more speedy transportation routes were

27 developed with civilization. Still there was enough life and bustle at that time to enable one to understand what former days had been like, and all the glamour of the adventurer's life was in its atmosphere. Escorted to the Guardroom. or Bachelors' Hall, I was made acquainted with its occupants. Mr. John K. McDonald, the "Second" in charge, Percy W. P. Mathews, surgeon and clerk. James Cowie, accountant, Alfred 0. T. Bennett, whose place I was to take in the office, as he was under orders to transfer to Oxford House up the river. The guardroom servant George Lindsay was also on hand, though he lived in the men's quarters at the other side of the factory. The term or name Guardroom was a survival of a former military regime, just as the generic name of officers was applied to the now non-militant members of the official clerical staff. What impressed a new comer was the orderly method and peaceful discipline of everything connected with the factory. The houses were rhythmically placed parallel to the stockades, or at right angles, the elevated wooden sidewalks being laid on the same principle allowing no short cuts or diagonals. The guardroom was a large single storey building, of bungalow type, each officer having a room. while the doctor was favored with two, one of which was utilized as a temporary medical hall. the surgery proper being in the depot. The rooms were built on the two ends and the back leaving one large room or hall, common to all. with windows in front. through which a view could be had across the fort and behind the depot. The furnishings were simple in the extreme, a long table, a country-made settee, and half a dozen easy chairs. whose backs could be gauged to different angles, or let down altogether in an emergency to aid a siesta on the floor in front of the two large Caron stoves, in the dark cold days of Winter. These Caron stoves were ungainly, closed in iron oblong receptacles for long billets of wood, showed no light from the fire, excepting when the sides became red hot, but were specially adapted for burning any sort of wood, radiated heat efficiently, the long lengths of stove pipe from each end connecting in the middle aiding distribution. The iron hinged door in front had a damper or draft. which was very serviceable, when the supply of dry wood failed and green wood or tamarac substituted. The only adornment on the walls was a large framed engraving of the Relief of Lucknow. J. K. McDonald's spirit

28 inspiring Scotch gift. The rooms, with bare wooden floors and painted w~lls, had iron bedsteads, relics of military passages covered With buffalo robes for mattresses, and simple country made furniture. When introduced as Mr. McTavish, one felt undeservedly uplifted with importance, but no comment was necessary, as it was the custom to address all officers with authority, in an equal manner, in public or when on duty, to instil the respect of authority in those persons occupying subordinate positions and conducive to discipline even among ourselves. In private life-when office hours ceased-the prefix could be dropped with impunity, while safeguarded with respect, but any breach of the regulations outside the guardroom received immediate attention and correction. Some years later a journalist and product of city education and life, when trying to be humorous, perhaps superciliously cynically sarcastic, emphasized the use of Esquire and Mister, in a book he wrote after a very brief visit to York Factory, included the cattle keeper among the "Misters", adding "And so on", evidently failing to realize what even a conventional term might signify in a lone land, or in any respecting society for the matter of that.* It was not long before further evidence of the constant attention to small things, all tending to respect of authority and the proper pursuance of well thought out management was given me. When the bell in the belfry tolled the midday dinner hour, we assembled in the mess room-having to walk from the guardroom to the Chief Factor's residence-and each person had his appointed place. At the head of the long table stood Mr. Joseph Fortescue, Chief Factor in charge, opposite him at the foot, Mr. John K. McDonald as "Second", while guests and officers ranged behind their chairs on each side. A large oil painting of Sir George Simpson, famous Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company in Canada, hung on the wall. When all was ready Grace was said, chairs drawn back, and everybody seated themselves. No one would think of sitting down till the officer in charge had arrived and gone through the regular routine of his duty. As was developed later, if he could not appear "on time" or was absent from any cause, a message was sent by the steward, or mess waiter to the "Second" who took command. I never saw this proceeding disregarded. In the morning the cheerful greeting was "Good morning

*Tuttle-"Our North Land". 29 Gentlemen" and the reply "Good morning Sir". The word "Sir" was properly used on all occasions, was a valuable factor in maintaining our own positions, and setting an example of discipline to others following in the footsteps. It meant more than mere courtesy, it implied respect and recognition of law and order, maintained that great reputation the Company had established, since its inception in 1670 and the building of its first post at Rupert's House (Fort Charles) in James Bay. The officers inculcated this respect, carried it into their camp life, on trips, even to Indian leaders. The men never lost respect for an officer, unless he became too familiar, and the Indians profited by adopting the men's attitude. The only piece of advice my father. George Simpson McTavish, Inspecting Chief Factor of the Hudson's Bay Company, gave me on entering the service was. "On no account be familiar with the men as they soon lose respect for an officer who forgets his position." Even if one gets the reputation of being "stuck up" or putting on airs, in consequence of a certain, let us say, aloofness, it is better so, provided one's actions are straight. He is more open to opposition and criticism in times of prosperity when all is going well. Only when the test comes in danger or tribulation do we find that the familiar man is not the one sought out for support or comfort, but the reliance is placed in the one who has respected his position, and so he comes to his reward on the home stretch. At the first dinner another lesson was given me, the thoughtfulness of others blending in a harmonious whole, the influence or conception of responsibility and authority. Can you imagine, under the exultation of a bright sunny day, the pure scented air, the exalted feelings created by the arrival of "the ship" with its yearly love tokens from the loved ones at home, in the shape of letters, gift remembrances, newspapers, the private importations consisting of good things to eat and nick-nacks, and last but not least the sight of new white faces, what such a gathering would be like, what a feast of thought and expression would follow, and the air charged with vitalitv and joy, the realization of intense happiness after weary months of waiting and expectation. The conversation was not exclusive by any means, and every one seemed capable of entering into any subject broached, with the assurance of a well read and experienced accomplishment, with the exception of myself. I was feeling the agony of

30 insignificance and humiliation at my inability almost to under­ stand what they were talking about, wondering if I could ever reach such a height of mental attainment, doubting it exceed­ ingly, when Mr. Fortescue addressed me personally, and drew me into the company with considerately formed questions adapted to the situation. Having been through the same experience, on entering the service and mindful thereof, he was able to remove the initial diffidence with tact, and make the youngest feel an integral part of the whole. From then on, others continued the good work of fellowship, and if the Company's officers at the various posts carried out the same sense of their responsibility in the education of their juniors­ and I believe they did in most cases-there is little surprise at the comradeship and friendship which existed between the aprentice clerk, intermediates, and Chief Factor, or the success which crowned individual effort when their opportunity came. The foundations were laid on moral standards, and though the Company may have started in the beginning with armed forts, their aim was more for defence than defiance. After the Bay posts were established with large complements of men, individual effort was relied on for the penetration and opening up of the wilderness, and so the policy and good government founded on these principles of moral and ethical consideration, with the proper realization or utilization of their responsibilities attached to their all powerful positions, worked for peaceful conquest and lasting good. How valuable this careful initial attention to verdant youth was, as a factor in carrying on the work of expansion may not have been recognized by the recipient to its full capacity at the time, but the lesson was absorbed subconsciously, and when later, verdant youths were entrusted with development of trade and goodwill on their own initiative and responsibility, at the back of their eagerness and willingness to succeed, was the desire to prove themselves worthy of the men who unselfishly had given them confidence by demonstrating their own fitness to govern wisely and well. This phase of the Hudson's Bay Company's training cannot be overlooked, being most valuable and interesting from every standpoint. It built up the character of each unit, inculcated its teaching of consideration and respect into their associations with the natives and others, and was the backbone of the Hudson's Bay Company. Officers and men could be trusted, their loyalty to each other and the

31 Company was unequalled, never questioned and second to none. Such men, of which Joseph Fortesque, Esquire, was an example, deserve a tribute, for though dead they still speak in their influence, leaving a heritage to be remembered and cherished, personally, after forty-nine years, with affection and gratitude.

---o---

32 CHAPTER VII

Fort Bourbon - Nelson River York Factory

York Factory, named after the Duke of York, brother of Charles Second, who was the second Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company and succeeded Prince Rupert, had been the gate­ way to Western Canada for over two hundred years, and the history of its founding as Fort Bourbon, on the north shore of the St. Therese or Hayes River by the French may not be generally understood. While the Hudson's Bay Company built a post the same year on Nelson River, as did the New Englander Ben Gillam, on what is still known as Gillam's Island in 1682, Medard Chowart Groseillers with Pierre Esprit Radisson evidently were the first to build on the Hayes, Radisson making the up-river trip to what is now Winnipeg or vicinity, with Indians, his partner Groseillers proceeding with the building. Radisson and Grosseillers had both been employed by the Hudson's Bay Company in connection with the building of their first fort called Fort Charles, on Rupert's River in 1669, and Radisson had, in company with Governor Bayly in 1671, sailed from Moose Factory (built 1671) to reach the Nelson, or Hayes River to meet the Indians and get an idea of the trade. It might therefore be said, that though the French, or their representatives-for Radisson and Grosseillers changed their sides or allegiance as it suited them best with a Vicar of Bray celerity-built the first fort, the Hudson's Bay Company had already prospected the locality ten years previously. Andrew Graham describing Fort York says: "Famous Nelson River, three miles north makes the land between an Island." (Bryce). In my time there was no creek as far as we knew, though there was mention of a French trail through the swamp behind the old fort where guns were supposed to have been mired, and the land between the Nelson and Hayes River is not an Island. It may be interesting to quote here, Dr.

33 Robert Bell of the Geological Survey: "The name Port Nelson has been retained by map makers for the mouth of Nelson River, perhaps because on paper it looks as if a port should still be there, but in reality no port for seagoing vessels exists at this locality at the present day. It is recorded that some of the small vessels first sent out by the Hudson's Bay Company two hundred and forty years ago, went to Gillam's Island, which is now just above the tide water at the mouth of the river. The writer has ascertained that the land on the west side of Hudson Bay is, geologically speaking, rising very rapidly, apparently at the high rate of nearly :five feet per century. Thirty years ago, or in 1879. I examined carefully all the waters in the vicinity of Gillam's Island itself, and nowhere could I :find a greater depth than ten feet. Although the island is now above the level of the highest tides, it is probable that at the time of Radisson, the water around it would be twelve feet deeper, making a total of twenty­ two feet which would be quite sufficient for the ships frequenting Hudson Bay up to the time of the adventures of D'Iberville in those waters. The Nelson descends with a swift current to high tide level at the foot of Gillam's Island, and from this outward. the principal single discharge of the river water into the Bay, at low tide, consists of a narrow shallow and very crooked stream, running for miles through the great mud flats which :fill the estuary, and interrupted throughout by many large boulders." Nelson River was named after the master of the "Resolution" which, with the "Discoverie" (Henry Hudson's ship) under command of Captain Thomas Button, wintered there 1612-13. Nelson died here, after their arrival on the 15th August, 1612. The ships at this period were all of small tonnage-fifty to seventy-and were thus able to be better taken care of in small creeks or indentations, to avoid their being broken up by the ice in Spring when the main rivers opened. This explanation of Nelson River is necessary to understand the situation, as while Groseillers was building Fort Bourbon on the Hayes, Ben Gillam, acting for New Englanders was at the same time preparing habitation on an island far up the Nelson. Ben Gillam was the son of Zechariah Gillam, who was captain of the "Nonsuch" at the establishing of Fort Charles, now Rupert's House, for the Hudson's Bay Company in 1668, and which vessel wintered there.

34 To make matters interesting, a Hudson's Bay Company's vessel arrived under command of Captain Zecariah Gillam, and with :\ lr. John Bridgar as officer in charge of trading operations. Owing to the configuration of Nelson River. and the Hudson's Bay Company's post being nearer the mouth on the north side, the Hudson's Bay Company officials were not aware of tb: proximity of Ben Gillam. neither was he aware that his father was so close to him. Radisson, however, on Hayes River, hearing the guns of the Hudson's Bay Company's vessel on the Nelson, located the two opposition parties and finally captured them both through strategy, thus ensuring himself and partner of the command of the Winter's trade. He took Ben Gillam and Bridgar in the farmer's vessel "Le Garon"-his own being damaged-to Quebec. Such was the founding or commence­ ment of the fur trade at York Factory.

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35 CHAPTER VIII

Ship Leaves Fall Hunting and Other Experiences - Chiefly Mosquitoes

Everybody was busy during ship week, no time being lost in getting the cargo from England ashore, and the furs, oil and sundries on board. The light weight of the furs had to be supplemented with stones, laboriously accumulated during the Summer, to ballast the "Ocean Nymph" for the return voyage. The office staff worked overtime and I received my first insight into the accounts, all calculations being primarily in pounds, shillings and pence. The activity about the place was exhilar­ ating, and the little social interchanges b.etween the ship and factory interjected happiness and minimized the thoughts of the ships leaving us to a year's isolation. Archdeacon W. W. Kirkby and his wife were all ready to say farewell to the land in which they had served a lifetime faithfully in the Church Missionary Society as far distant as the McKenzie River District. All classes regretted the passing of the jolly rotund little parson, though he had earned his respite from missionary labor, with much credit to himself and his amiable wife. Dr. Bell also was to leave to explore the Nelson River, and return inland to Ottawa. Part of his observations on the elevation of Gillam's Island when on this trip have been already quoted. We were sorry to part with Captain McPherson and John Hawes, the first mate. Even the rolling "Ocean Nymph" which often tried to upset our interior economy, on the outward voyage gave us a different sinking feeling as she spread her white wings, dropped down the river with favorable tide and wind, to the joyful tune of the sailor's "Homeward Bound" and the salute of the two cannon on the river's bank. With the departure of the Nymph, and the severance of

36 home ties, the Rev. George S. Winter and his wife occupied the parsonage newly vacated by the Kirkby's, while I began to feel the attractions of my surroundings and participate in the routine of disciplined action. But before settling down to the real Winter's work of checking goods with the indents and invoices, working out the cost landed price of every article, including customs valuations or duties, there was a respite from the excite­ ment of ship time, and the clerks were allowed to go hunting or fishing according to easement, or surcease from labour, which dominated the permission. It so happened that a goose and duck hunting party of Cree Indians were to be despatched across the Nelson, or what was locally called the "North River", and as Mr. Bennett was shortly to leave for Oxford House in the interior, and I was not considered of much necessity, we joined the hunters with a limited amount of rations, depending on our prowess to provide for ourselves. Mr. Bennett had his own double-barrel muzzle loading shot gun, 28 bore, and I obtained the loan of another, having not reached the stage when I could financially embarrass myself by the purchase of one. The problem of securing a weapon had been made more vivid by the fact that before leaving Stromness I had drawn a quarter of my year's salary, namely five pounds, or twenty-four dollars, and had to proceed slowly in undertaking obligations. Twenty pounds was not a very munificent wage for a year, but it was probably all I was worth, though when one had to buy blankets, dufHe, capot, moccasins, and all the paraphernalia necessary for an outfit, there was not much margin for luxuries in the way of tobacco. Luckily those were the days of hunters and Baltic cutty clay pipes, as I had learned to smoke the previous year on the · 'Prince of Wales", and thought that smoking was an essential to distinc­ tive manhood. A. 0. T. Bennett and I camped alongside Sam's Creek, and he proceeded to initiate me in the secrets of hunting driftwood. making "churls"-i.e. with his knife cutting a dry stick so that each cut curls up, care taken not to separate churls, but to leave them attached to two or three inches of base, when four or five churls will readily catch fire from their open formation­ cooking and camp generally having an experience of four years at such work. It was holiday or hay making time for the mosquitoes, and of all places in the world, Nelson River and York Factory will

37 take pre-eminence as the home of the mosquito. They certainly do not stand on ceremonv and heartily welcome a new comer without any unnecessary introduction, and their purpose is to make one forget .my other troubles he may have in life, on the principle of the dog with fleas, which divert his mind from brooding over the fact that he is a dog. Mosquitoes are adepts at finding an entrance through one's clothing, even sending their proboscis through the holes where the deerskin tie threads or laces appear in the moccasin and attacking the feet. There is. however. one wav to get a mosquito into one's power, a case of the biter being bit. When Mrs. Mosquito-for alas the females alone torment man and beast-has sunk her sheathed pump or proboscis into one's vitals, advertised her procedure and presence by the itching poison injected, all that is necessary to stop her enjoyment and interrupt her meal of blood, is to stop breathing. The pores of the skin immediately contract and hold the misguided female in a vice from which there is no escape. trv as she might. Then you can demonstrate your charatcer by whatever methods of torture your frenzied brain can suggest. You can light a match and subject her to a fiery ordeal. or if you have a pocket pair of scissors you can cut her to pieces. If you still remain, after all your torture. a forgiving Christian you can, after tickling her in return. commence to breathe and allow her to escape. That she is only too eager to cry quits can be seen from the speed wherewith she withdraws not only her hypodermic, but her vicious person from one's vicinity. Few people are aware of such a common thing as the contraction and expansion of the skin in breathing. Demonstrate it on your enemy Mrs. Mosquito. A fallacy prevails in many persons that after a mosquito gets a full feed of human blood she dies. This is not so. Dr. Mathews experimented in a glass hand-made container, and he fed them every day for two weeks. Hunting along the coast at certain times of the year is there­ fore marred by the attentions of these pests. We wore deerskin gauntlets, and veils to protect ourselves, yet suffered consider­ ably. As we had been left on a Saturday by the Indians, and had no fresh meat, Bennett decided on Sunday hunting for a meal. He was an English clergyman's son, and I thought he would have the same scruples against hunting on Sunday that I was experiencing, having always paid rigid Presbyterian observance to its keeping. While I was willing to go hungry in a good cause, he demonstrated our necessity, so we sallied from our first night's simple ground camp on Sunday morning and

38 proceeded to hunt. The clergyman's son brought down ducks that day with unerring aim, while I did not get a feather. For one reason I was not used to shooting, and for another, the fear that the gun would burst and kill me for breaking the Sabbath disqualified me as a sportsman on this occasion. However, Bennett got the birds and I helped to eat them. With no vegetables of any sort, the initiation of living on the country produce began, aided by the Hudson Bay sauce, called Hunger. All that week till the relief boat came to take us back to the factory. we ate ducks, geese, and plover, boiled, "Poonasjed"­ that is the birds were dressed, split spread-eagled with sticks through their breasts to keep them open while a stick was inserted lengthwise, and planted in the ground or mud in front of the camp fire. Owing to the heat and the blue bottle flies, which scented dead game miraculously, and laid their eggs thereon to aid decomposition, we would have had difficulty in preserving the birds, had not the Indians, before leaving, instructed us in the art of preservation. This was simply to dig a hole in the ground and place the game within, covering them with the turf or mud grass required. Flies could not get at them, and the ground beneath was kept cold by underlying ice. Another method was to tie game or meat to a tall pole and elevate it beyond the fly line, where the sun and air were cooler than nearer the ground. This little trip-every journey by land or water came under this heading, and the word was constantly in use-was a fore­ taste of what was to be expected from reading R. M. Ballantyne's books on Hudson Bay life and one had dreams of Paradise, hunting and fishing a la Indian. It is not strange that the natural side of things appeal to boys. Youth was its element and the wilds did not seem such a bad place after all. It was with regret therefore, though somewhat surfeited with "straight" duck, as showing how even one loses pristine tastes in good things, when continuous in times of plenty, that we left the scene of happy recollections, barring mosquitoes, to return to the fort. The two words York Factory were used when speak­ ing of the place specifically, but the single word "Fort" was generally in vogue.

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39 CHAPTER IX

Fall Incidents and Preparation

When the Fall was nearly over, and the air presaged the coming cold weather, preparations were made for laying in a winter's supply of river whitefish for our dogs. The guardroom officers had their team to provide for, so when it was cold, enough to freeze the catches, and thus preserve the fish in Nature's cold storage, the seine was bundled into our seventeen­ foot boat, made by experienced Old Country boat builders. Cowie. Macrae and myself hied ourselves to the :fishing grounds among the islands fronting on Ten Shilling Creek, on the south side of Hayes River, and a couple of miles or so above the factory. Local tradition accounted for the name of Ten Shillings Creek from the fact of it having been the wintering place of some vessel, or vessels, in bygone days, and that rum could be purchased from it or them, at the price of Ten Shillings a gallon. As the Company fished the locality during the day time. we were in duty bound not to encroach on their business pre­ rogatives, consequently our efforts were eliminated from business hours and confined to night work, so as not to conflict with the regular :fishermen. The seine was not a very large one, though sufficient for our purpose, and did not entail hard work in its use. In fact, it was a pleasure setting out from the head of an island, making a sweep and seeing the silver beauties landed by the hundreds. When the boat was filled we returned to the factory, spread the white fish on the floor of our shed, so that they would not freeze in a mass. This proceeding and process was continued for several nights till we had sufficient. Sometimes if the tides did not suit, we used to go ashore and camp, in the dark or moonlight regaling ourselves with a late supper of freshly-caught fish, fried in a frying pan. No excur­ sion was made without cooking utensils, consisting of frying pan, tin cooking kettle and tea kettle. The frying pan did duty for a bread pan as well, and flour bannocks were baked in approved style by mixing a dough to a consistency that when

40 set up before the camp fire, it would not slide into the ashes. Bread or bannock making is quite an art but it is wonderful how quickly trippers became experts in preparing this food in front of blazing camp fires. Every man became a cook, and many are the concoctions which frying pan and tin cooking kettle can produce to assuage a healthy hungry appetite. On one of these occasions the Whiskey Jack, a species of magpie introduced himself. He has unlimited cheek, and though none may be seen when landing, as soon as the fire ascends Whiskey Jack puts in an appearance, and invites himself to the repast. He will alight on the edge of the frying pan, which one also uses as a plate when the fish are cooked and cooled, and help himself alternatively with you. That is, when you have taken a goodly portion with your fingers, and conveyed it to your mouth. Whiskey Jack sizes up the moment for safety and gobbles his share. Ever watchful. he is ready to fly away to a safe distance if an attempt is made to grab him. This can however be easily accomplished by stretching out the arm with food on open palm, turning away the head, so that the eyes do not convey intention. In a minute you will feel Mr. Whiskey Jack on your hand, and can capture him by closing the fist. Like the blue bottle fly, attracted to new I y-killed meat, the Whiskey Jack seems to come out of nowhere where food is concerned. Even on the plains between York Factory and Churchill, with nothing in sight, the smoke of a scrub fire hardly rises before Whiskey Jack is there investigating. They are sociable little beggars. and were seldom denied their share of our repasts. Practically the only remaining Winter birds, they made the camp lively with their impudence, and were always made welcome despite their thieving tendencies. We camped among the small scrubs and trees, on a clear frosty night with a blazing cheerful fire in front. "The roaring camp-fire with rude humour painted The ruddy tints of health." ( Bret Harte "Dickens") . A kettle of hot tea (never any milk on trips) ever ready for consumption, a good Hudson's Bay blanket 3 Yi points (the marking on lower edges whereby size was determined ranging from one to four "points") on top of the mattress of springy spruce boughs. and a pipe, made life a pleasurable reality, and when we cast our seine and made a drag-in the small hours­ of silver beauties, one had the feeling of being privileged to

41 participate in scenes boys and men dream about, but few realize. Some nights when there was a strong wind, almost-save for a few cumulous clouds-a clear star-studded sky, a full moon. the Aurora Borealis would give such a display of movement and coloring, that one imagined the rustling flight could be heard at times, in moments of intense flow and agitation. The Aurora Borealis is well named the Northern Lights, as they are seen to great advantage, and certainly lighten the darkness in the North Land on many occasions. The finest displays were seen on windy nights, with a sharp freezing atmosphere, and were well worth watching at any time. It did not take many days, or rather nights, to get a good supply of white fish, and the weather having been considered in the operations, the fish were frozen almost fresh. With the river forming ice, our boat was hauled out for the Winter, and our attention turned to traps, carioles, and snowshoes, a general inspection taking place. The daily regulated routine in our little business world. kept us keyed up for the entertainments, wild animals, books, and fishes provided us in our spare moments. There was always something to look forward to. and participate in, wholesome occupation, open air life, the exercise of brain and body, the satisfaction of adding to one's larder, the pleasure of an extra feed predominating in our youthful vigorous appetites, and last, but not least, the co-operating good will of our own guardroom bachelor environment. The only white ladies, Mrs. Fortescue and Mrs. Winter did us many kindnesses, and gave that touch of home life in refining feminine influence. \Vith our guardroom servant, George Lindsay, our rooms were looked after, fires and other wants attended to. On Satur­ days a couple of old Indian women-pensioners came and washed the floors. Each officer had a yearly contract with an Indian washer­ woman, the wives of the men who had settled and married, and lived inside or outside the factory enclosure, according to accommodation or inclination. There was a village, or cluster of houses, at no great distance from the factory, higher up the river, and the small houses formed a mixed settlement, temporary servants like dog-drivers, deer-hunters, tripmen, nearly all Cree natives or halfbreeds, with white men and their wives forming the population.

42 Mrs. Sally Gunn was assigned to me, or I was assigned to her, and contracted to do my washing, mending, making moccasins, mittens, leggings, ornamented with beads or silk, or anything necessary according to the custom of the country, for a remuneration of one pound sterling, or four dollars eighty-six cents. This was an occasion where I got full value for my money, and during the years I was at York Factory, Sally never neglected me. A little present now and again, of small value. kept the service satisfactory to all parties, though I shall al ways feel Sally's debtor. When the swamps froze, and the first light snow fall made snowshoeing possible, I was instructed by Mr. McDonald one moonlight night in the art of snowshoeing. He disappeared among the scrubs to see what course I would pursue. Refusing any answer to my calls, I turned about and started to follow our tracks homewards, whereupon he showed himself. This was an object lesson to note well where one was going. In the event of anyone losing his way, or meeting with an accident in Winter, and not returning before five or six o'clock, the bell in the big belfry was tolled at intervals, its sound carrying miles in the clear cold air, notifying the wanderer that the factory was on the qui vive or guard, and denoting direction. Should there be no response after a reasonable time, parties equipped to camp out, would be sent in several directions with the purpose of locating the tracks on the peninsula. The fox fever now occurred. Every man who could get a trap and location on the shores of the Nelson, Hayes River, on the coast line or in the woods and creeks, was under high pressure with lust of the chase. Besides sport, the matching of wits, the capture of any fox. wolf. wolverine, mink, marten, muskrat, beaver or ermine meant extra tobacco, mooseskins or some addition to our salaries in trade. According to our Contracts, or Rules and Regulations, we had to deliver all furs obtained by barter or otherwise to the Company at prevailing Indian prices in "Made Beaver". The returns were not large, but they eked out our somewhat limited purchases in the store, where "Shop day" took place, twice a year to save time and inculcate economy. We had, however, to pay the highest London sale-price for any fur we desired to purchase, which was almost prohibitory. When we wanted to get a piece of fur, say beaver or other skin for a cap, we had to club together and. buy the skin from the

43 Company, as we could not afford to do so individually. Once in a while perhaps, our Indian washerwoman would secure us J strip obtained through an Indian, but we carried out our traditions of obeying orders faithfully, though we did think that the conditions imposed on us rather severe in this case. But the company's argument was of this nature, that officers had the opportunity of selecting the best skins, therefore they must pay the highest price. If they chose an inferior skin, that is their lookout, and we will also avoid any argument as to quality, or price by eliminating the purchase

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44 CHAPTER X

"Made Beaver" and Pro Pelle Cutem

The term "Made Beaver" was equivalent in a sense to the Dollar, and its adoption, no doubt, followed the Company's motto "Pro Pelle Cutem", Skin for Skin, or Pelt for Skin, as being more readily understood by the Indians in an interchange of commodities or values. There was no money, and with one exception, no metal tokens to non plus or confuse the natives, hence, with Beaver as the foundation of the Company's business, nothing was more natural than to apply the name Beaver in relation to goods of corresponding value. The Beaver was made the synonym of cash and became "Made Beaver". The exception referred to was introduced in East Main District Hudson Bay about 1870, by my father, George Simpson McTavish, grandson of Sir George Simpson, and Inspecting Chief Factor. The brass tokens were of four denominations, 1, 0, Y4, and 7E, made Beaver. Their size in diameters 1 7E, 1 1 I 16, 15 / 16 and 7 /8, or as measured by the American scale, 14, 15, 16, and 18. These four values are all that have been known to exist, though the North West Company had a token dated 1820 with a man's or King's head on one side, and the reverse had the picture of a beaver sur­ rounded by the words "North West Company". The Hudson Bay tokens or coins are described thus: "On the obverse appears the handsome coat of arms of the Ancient and Honourable of the Hudson's Bay Company, made up of symbols of the fur trade, with argent across gules, a beaver proper in each compartment: supporters two stags: crest a fox. Underneath the shield is a scroll with the Company's motto, adopted from a phrase from the Vulgate, occurring in the fourth verse of the second chapter of Job, "Pro Pelle Cutem" being roughly translated means "Skin for Pelt". On the reverse are the letters which below are given ( with accepted translation) H (Hudson's), B (Bay), E (East), M (:\bin), N (now looked upon as M Made) B (Beaver)." (Family Herald, 19th November, 1898). My father informed me that the N was

45 an error on the die, and the proper letter should have been ~l denoting the value Made Beaver. My father received his commission as Chief Trader m 1859, and was in charge of Albany in 1862. In 1875 he was made Inspecting Chief Factor, when he must have left the Southern Department, of which he was in charge after 1869, as he was stationed that year at Little Whale River, hence Mr. Alan Nicholson, who was twenty-eight years at Rupert's House giws his opinion that the coins were not issued till about 18 70. Ylr. Nicholson, for many years accountant at Moose Factory collected these tokens, placed them on inventory for record, and the surplus ones were sent to Winnipeg for the Hudson's Bay Company's museum. It was customary to use abbreviated initials in marking the bales, packages, etc., for the several destinations or segregations. Moose River would instead of MR, be portrayed as NR. just as York Factory was designated by YF. This method of classi­ fication being so common, when the sample inscription was sent to England, it was followed perhaps unconsciously, and the letters for MB appeared NB. Unaware of the symbolism or its meaning. the die marker naturally interprets the letters as NB. and so the hyphenated or combined letters were separated as on the coins. For years the blacksmiths at Moose and York Factories made the axes, included under the heading of "Country .\lade Articles". As Canada and its trade developed, it was decided to import ready-made axes, and, to give the manufacturer an idea of the shape and size required, a wooden model was made and forwarded as a sample. Unfortunately the carpenter who made the model of the axe head, did not make a hole or eye for the handle, thinking that common sense would dictate its necessity at the place of manufacture. This attention to detail however, resulted in the receipt of a number of solid cast wedges-the exact reproduction of the model-and were useless for the purpose, causing a delay for one or two years. A person could not afford to make mistakes, neither could he trust too much to outsiders under such disadvantages of distance, consequently the training we received while painfully minute and irritating at times, had method in its madness, and prevented trouble in the en?. .A modern a1:tiquarian or numismatist, worrying over some mtncate conception, when an explanation of its utility and purpose was simplicity itself, would have been saved unnecessary mental strain. had this attention to detail been carried out. A narrative of Mr. R. W. McLachlan, of Montreal. a well known numismatist, as to how the coins first came to light. is well given in an article he published in 1892. of which a slight synopsis will be interesting. He says "They first came to his knowledge about 1884, when one of his one-eighth denomina­ tion came through an Indian into the hands of a young collector. He showed his prize and looked around for a purchaser with the good fortune of shortly after disposing of it for the neat little sum of $12 5. This sale set the whole coin fraternity agog, and they determined to find some more if possible. Correspondence with the Hudson's Bay Company's officers in the north and with the home and Winnipeg offices, did not throw any light upon the subject. Thus things dragged along for another two years. until fresh impetus was given to the search by a collector. who had dealings with the north, showing to the astonished eyes of his friends, an identical piece with the one already known, and three others, varying only in their denominations. .'v1ore hunting ensued, but another t\\'O years went by without any fresh discovery. In the year 1888, Messrs. A. P. Low and C. H. McNutt. who were detailed to prospect the country east of Hudson Bay discovered nine complete sets at "Little Whale River". \1 y uncle, Donald McTavish. who was in charge of Rupert's House and District for years. gave me three complete sets of these tokens, one of which I later presented to James Thomson, Commissioner of the Hudson's Bav Company, Winnipeg, and a life-long friend of mine, whose acquaintance I first made in Kirkwall, Orkney, when he was a law student, and I was temporarily in a Stromness law office.

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47 CHAPTER XI

Indians

There are always two sides to a question, sometimes there are many sides, but if cavillers and would-be detractors treated their fellow men as the honorable Hudson's Bay Company have done the Indians, as practical wards, there will be no need for apologies. Educated men, men with a knowledge of their own deficiencies have given the Company their meed of praise, and after 258 years the Company's record for square dealing stands still "Second to None". The influence established among the Indians never showed itself more clearly than during Louis Riel's second rebellion, when the Indians around Fort Pitt, Duck Lake. etc., went on the warpath for probably the last time in their eventful history. "The first shot in Federated Canada's first and last war was fired on the 26th March, 1885. Major Crozier with sixty Mounted Police and twenty-five volunteers were engaged at Duck Lake and had to retire, carrying a score of wounded on their sleighs. and leaving a dozen dead in the snow. Just over the Alberta-Saskatchewan boundary, Big Bear, a week after the Duck Lake affair, attacked Frog Lake. The Indian Agent, T. T. Quinn was shot. Every man in the settlement was shot down except the Hudson's Bay Company's clerk Cameron. No one connected with the great Company was harmed all through these troubles. A young nephew of Quinn's got safely down to Fort Pitt, thirty miles southeast on the North Saskatchewan. Nine were slain, including two priests of the R.C. Mission, John Delaney, the government farm instructor, and John Gowanlock, who was building a grist mill. The wives of the last two were saved by half breeds who ransomed them from the Indians". (Howard Angus Kennedy. "Family Herald" 1st April, 19 25). The Indians held the Hudson's Bay Com­ pany's officers, W. J. McLean, afterwards known as "Big Bear McLean". and Stanley Simpson for example, unharmed hostages, as a very present help in case of trouble, if things went wrong.

48 . All through the long regime of the Hudson's Bay Company, their treatment of the Indians earned them their confidence and respect, and eliminated any fear of personal violence. No soldiers were requ~red to co~ them into subjection. The Company pro­ ceeded quietly by picked men of fearless courage, in individual cases, or in small numbers to inculcate the principle of honourable dealing, and win respect in remote places. We, in Canada, are reaping the benefit of that peaceful penetration and conquest over natural difficulties. The foundation was well and truly laid on the "Made Beaver" and is therefore able to sustain the structure Canada as a nation is now building thereon. The "Made Beaver" made "Beaver" the industrial symbolism of a great nation by honest work. Let me quote two widely different men's testimonies, men not associated or prejudiced by association with the Hudson's Bay Company. First Warburton Pike, in "The Barren Ground of Northern Canada", chapter 14, pages 222-3. "The Hudson's Bay Company have always treated the Indians fairly and leniently, taking the greatest care only to import articles absolutely necessary to the welfare of the natives, guns, ammunition, blankets, capots, dress stuff for the women. and tea and tobacco, have always been the principal contents of the store, and these are sold at absurdly low prices, when the cost of the long and risky transport is considered. The Indians love of gaudy colours was always indulged, but the goods were of the best material. Then came the free traders, with a stock of bright cheap clothing. a variety of dazzling tinsel. or perhaps a keg of molasses which attracted the eye and palate of the wily hunter. so that he would give up his rich furs for the worthless trash, only to find himself short of all the necessities for maintaining life in the woods, when the snow began to fall again. No amount of experience enables him to resist the temptation, but the long-enduring Hudson's Bay Company always listens to his tale of woe and helps him out of his difficulties, accepting his promise, ever readily given and as readily broken, to hand in his furs in the following Spring to the officer in charge of the Post. Whenever the oft told story of a band of Indians caught by the horrors of starvation reaches the Fort, the Company sends to the rescue, and every Winter saves many a man from death. while the free-trader, having taken as much fur as he can get out of the country, during a short Summer's trip is living at ease on the

49 confines of civilization. The days are gone by when a prime silver fox could be bought for a cotton handkerchief, but still the rumours brought from this little known country (memo-­ speaking of Vermillion) attract the venturesome trader, usually to his own loss, and always to the upsetting of the Company's wise system of dealing with the Indians." The letters H.B.C. were humorously interpreted by us in the guardroom as the "Hungry Belly Company", but an American gets the credit of paying the old honoured Company a double barrelled compliment of antiquity and sense, when he translated them as ''Here Before Christ" E. 0.1. Kindle of the Geological Survey in "Canada North of Fifty-six Degrees" writes as follows, March 19 28: "In the Northwest the Hudson's Bay Company has reversed the usual order in which civilization entrenches itself in a new land. This is according to a familiar axiom, first the missionary. then the soldier, then the trader. Here the trader anticipated the missionary, and used so much tact and diplomacy in his dealings with the Indian, that the soldier was not needed. This historical sequence has led certain irreverent ones to interpret to tourists the meaning of the widely displayed and somewhat mystical initials H.B.Co., to signify "Here Before Christ". The influ­ ence of the Company in promoting friendly relations between the Indians and the whites as well as between different Indian tribes cannot be questioned. Nor can the effect of the Company's activities in holding Western Canada for the British Empire before the days of Federation be doubted." ~1y father in 1889 gave me his Ensign Flag with the letters H.B.C. on it, which he had used on his trips as Inspecting Chief Factor. I carried the flag to Cassiar, B.C., and some civilized animal stole it from me when I was on the Skeena River, B.C. As an example of fair trading, it is a matter of history that the Company during a shortage of supplies in the mining camps of the Fraser River gold-rush one winter, and when the Com­ pany alone possessed flour, etc., took no advantage of the stringency, but notices were posted that prices would not be raised in this time of stress, and business continued as usual.

50 CHAPTER XII

Discipline and Precautions

The Hudson's Bay Company is not exclusively Canadian. nor is it British, but it is an Empire institution, founded, carried on and existing on its moral foundations of Pro Pelle Cutem, "Value for Value". It has stood and stands for all that makes life worth living, by the practice of straight dealing and foresight. Surrounded by miles of swamp, neighbors a couple of hundred miles distant, communication with the outside world limited to four regular packets, namely, Winter, Spring, Summer, ship and Fall. the living conditions were only made tolerable by the efficient moral discipline of the officers in charge. With idleness or laxity of government, men would have soon lost the grip on themselves, and become as uninspiring as the native. Therefore. after years of experience, the routine was carried on with proverbial clock-like accuracy, and to the best advantage of health. work. exercise and pastime. Regular hours of work were as essential in the wilds as in business city marts and factories. but living in a compound or stockaded enclosure. segregation of private and business relations was not so pro­ nounced. and the feeling of dependence and comradeship was common and strengthened to a degree unobtainable or not understood in a city. The hours were from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m .. with intermissions for smoking time and midday meal. Half an hour was allowed in the forenoon, and also in the afternoon for a draw of the pipe, every smoker or non-smoker being entitled to recess privilege. Every man left his employment and proceeded to his quarters or in the open air when smoking-time came round. This was a precaution against fire and minimized all risk to unprotected buildings, unoccupied after official hours. The midday meal was allowed one hour, so that practically there was a ten-hour day. Of course, when there was occasion for working long hours to suit time, tide and emergencies, regular hours had to be discarded, but as compensation, especially at outposts, the men were allowed time to hunt for their

51 families or themselves, during the seasons when game was plentiful. provided their work was up to date, or could be conveniently postponed. This equalization resulted in a splendid understanding among the fort people, as we all benefitted from willing service when the call came for extraneous efforts. The men knew that by prompt obedience to orders, they would merit the goodwill of the officers in charge. while on the other hand. the officers had the good will of the men. through the broad-minded views of consideration for those absolutely in their hands for weal or woe. The blending of authority and discipline with equitable common sense and friendly sympathies, was a feature in the good government of the Hudson's Bay Company. The instances of crime are rare, if any, in the annals of the Company among the white race, and its absence also was reflected in the relationship between the Indian and the white man. The only case I have read or heard about in connection with the Indians was what is locally known as the "Hannah Bay Murder" which occurred about 183 2. Hannah Bay was an outpost, fifty miles from Moose Factory and was in charge of :'\lr. Jacob Corrigal, an Orkneyman. His wife was also from Orkney. An Indian conjuror or medicine man worked up the Indians in the vicinity to a pitch of hatred, excitement and cupidity, telling them how easy it would be to kill the1 whites at Hannah Bay. Rupert's House and Moose Factory, and after­ wards capture "the ship" which to them represented untold permanent wealth. On New Year's morning the attack took place. At outposts the staff might consist of the officer in charge. with one or two white men. Mr. and Mrs. Corrigal and child were killed. One man taking another child on his back escaped, was pursued by the Indians and fired upon. A bullet struck the child in the head, and the man finally realizing the child was dead, laid the body on the snow and ran all the way to Moose Factory. >.fr. John George McTavish was in charge of the Southern Department .at this time, and immediately organized a party under Captain Swanson, to mete out justice on the Indians. The medicine man was reported, on coming from the tent to meet the party, to state that bullets could not harm him, where­ upon Captain Swanson, or one of his men, to demonstrate his fallibility. knocked him down with a blow of his fist. The medicine man was shot and all others guilty of the murders, the

52 buried. bodies of the Corrigal family recovered and decently Lake" R. M. Ballantyne wrote a little book called "Silver years based on this murder, the incident having occurred a few son of .prior to his entering the service. Henry Swanson, of Captain Swanson told me the story when he was in charge the fall goose-hunt at Stony River in 18 81, and I was hunting men with him. Asked! if he had ever heard any of the white feeling who participated in the execution of justice express any of repugnance or regret, he said they had no more compunction had killing the murderous Indians, after knowing what they done to the bodies, than they would mad dogs. This extreme made, case of discipline was necessary, and the prompt example Bay ended any further attempt to conquer the Hudson's Company. The precautions 'taken in regard to "smoking time" were posts, carried out to an inspection at 10 p.m., at some of the were the officer in charge making the rounds to see that all fires the out, during Winter. Situated hundreds of miles apart, as well danger from fire was a very serious one at the outposts, protect as at the head posts, hence nothing was overlooked to lives and supplies. or The powder magazine, as supplying the wherewith ammunition for hunting, was usually built at a safe distance with from the fort. or if within the stockade, of stone material Bay, sheet lead-covered roofs. The trading store, also on the similar where sea or water transport made it feasible, had fire in protective coverings. There has never been a loss from many any of the Bay posts to my knowledge. No matter how stores, degrees the cold was below zero, in the trading room. or or no fires, or smoking were allowed, and when the Indians on the Esquimaux came in to trade, we would have to stay meal job day by day, the half-hour smoking time and our and hours being our only relief. Ours was a Spartan life discipline won out, as it was and always will against pampering records influences and fallacious reasoning. Dr. John Rae at by wintering at Repulse Bay, that one of his men was laughed his comrades, because he had his knee frozen under the blankets. With such men and such training, the history of the Hudson's Bay Company shows the success of vigilance and discipline, risks and how it has carried on against natural odds and All unparalleled, over such an immense stretch of country. 53 praise and quietly accomplished. All the more worthy of admiration. every "The loyalty of comrade to comrade is needed for and the association of men who seek to serve the community Black loyalty is itself a strength and an abiding joy." (Hugh on Happiness) .

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54 CHAPTER XIII

Discipline of Organization Forethought - Conservation

Another instance of co-ordination was the provisioning of the occupants of the factory, temporary servants and others. With only one opportunity to obtain auxiliary supplies via the ship from England, the chief dependence was placed on country provisions, venison, fish and feathered game. In the event of hard times, or shortage from these sources, also in case of accident to the yearly vessel, the depot carried a well­ calculated reserve for two years in the shape of salt pork, salt beef. and other essentials, not forgetting the necessities ammu­ nition, gunpowder, shot and bullets, the chief dependence for existence. The officers dined at a common mess. They did not receive rations on the same system or scale as the men, owing to the community feeding, and sometimes suffered from false economy in consequence. For instance while the men had their ration of deer's grease, we would for months have boiled white-fish, and seldom see a fried one. Grease or fat is an important item in keeping the body in condition in cold northern regions, so whatever fell to the lot of the officers regards "cutting down expenses" the men were sure of this luxurious ration, which we oftimes envied and longed for. The success of the buffalo pemmican was an ever-satisfying warmth­ sustaining food, in the olden days of hard travelling and long trips. It formed the staple standby of every expedition, owing to the large content of fat and grease, unified with the dry shredded or pounded buffalo ( or later reindeer) meat, making a concentrated food peculiarly applicable to the country, ready to be eaten at all times, no cooking being necessary. In cold weather with continuous active exercise, the human system craved for this fat upbuilding food, and pemmican has played no mean part in the development of the North West Territories and far north, its compactness and qualities aiding materially in overcoming the difficulties of transportation, where every

55 death, ounce of food had to be considered, as meanmg life or success or failure. (a Though not rationed daily or weekly like the servants dis­ generic name applied to the men and not by any means of honourable in any particular sense, as we were all servants flour, the Company) each officer had yearly allowances of tea, or sugar, and other essentials when procurable, like coffee chocolate which could be exchanged on a sliding scale, according For to the amount used, or the exigencies of the situation. pimento example, if it was found that our half pound of not (spice) or ~i -pound mustard, our only condiments, were used, a shortage in some other little articles was permissibly post substituted or increased. This applied of course to a head the or depot like York Factory only, as at minor isolated posts, of any allowances had to be religiously adhered to for want too reserve. If an officer at a post consumed his allowances supply rapidly. he had simply to go without till his next year's water reached him. Should he run out of tea, he could drink in which his meat was boiled, thus proving his adaptability in knowing how to make the best of any situation. was But while we could substitute food and drink, there one thing in those early days which exercised all our ingenuity of and carefulness to preserve, and that was our allowance had to eighteen pounds of priceless candles, which was all we was lighten the darkness of the long winter months. No gold ever treasured like our three, six-pound blue-covered packages, or and when the steward delivered to each officer his winter be yearly quota, the candles were locked up, so there should days or no diminution or loss by theft. In the long winter of four nights we hardly used any candles, between the hours by and six p.m., passing the time, when in the guardroom, stories, sitting or lying in our chairs near the stoves, telling supper, discussing current events, speculating on fried fish for light, a or taking a nap. When it was imperative to have a by its candle was brought out in turns of ownership, and undue solitary dim-flickering rays, we managed, and suffered no strain on our eyesight. Spectacles were almost an unknown quantity in that land of conservation of utilities. When on special occasions, all the candles were utilized contrast in the general hall, we appreciated the illumination, in in the to th~ li~ht of a s~litary dip. And we played the game his equalization of this community service, each contributing

56 sha.re b~ turns without trying to take advantage of the other. a delmeat1on of character amplified in all our dealings with one another. In spite of our carefulness we were generally short before the period of darkness was ended, and then we had to resort to homemade makeshifts. having candle moulds which with cotton wick served to make darkness visible. One or two of the officers had Argand moderator lamps privately imported, which burned whale and colza oil, and were fed by a ratchet attachment requiring frequent winding up, but the supply of oil was so limited that only on rare occasions was this innovation produced. At Fort Churchill, where there was a whale fishery the men had for illuminating purposes, a tin receptacle for holding whale oil, and a spout wherein lay the cotton wick, emitting when lit, as much smoke as light, an incentive to going to bed early. The chief mainstay in our food supply was venison, salt geese, and white-fish. Occasionally we had beef when it was considered advisable to kill an old ox. With duck, ptarmigan, plover and other feathered game we fared very well, though the greatest want was in vegetables. At Ten Shillings Creek, a few potatoes were grown in olden days, but the artificially­ made garden in front of the depot, provided us with a watery variety in my time. While mustard and cress in Spring requiring no great depth of soil. was a boon, turnips were grown for their tops. as root crops did not develop to any extent. Preserved (dry) imported vegetables were more often used in soups. and Edwards dessicated potatoes in tins, fourteen pounds and over, really was our standby as an anti-scorbutic, when salt geese, salt beef or pork had to be relied on in a time of scarcity of fresh meats. Lacking vegetables, we became meat eaters to a great extent, and the size of our appetites minimized the duties of the carver. Two cuts of the carving knife left only the hulk of a goose, and each officer received one-half as his preliminary portion. With mallards for dinner, a whole duck was deposited on a plate, and often like Oliver Twist, we came back for more. When travelling outside, a little flour and perhaps oatmeal (for soup) we depended entirely on meat, without accessories, butter, milk, etc., being altogether superfluities, ( even if we could have obtained them). Till we substituted Danish butter in tins for the salt Cork butter in firkins, we did not derin much content from the latter, as owing to its rank rancid nature, it was generally used to grease

57 the ways for launching boats, to save the more valued Jnd respected reindeer grease. Beaver and an occasional young Polar bear when roasted added very acceptably to a variation of diet. The lake white-fish were of inestimable quality, and when fried, we never got tired of them. but the small river white-fish were, especially when simply boiled, and out of condition, oftimes anything but palatable, even with Hudson's Bay sauce-hunger. The swamps afforded a goodly variety of berries, and the mess allowance of sugar went largely in the making of jam. raspberry, yellow or eye-berry and cranberries. The latter, however, took so much sugar that they were served up prin­ cipally in puddings mixed with a small berry, resembling the heather berry. whose s,netness offset the acidity of its neighbor. Dinner was in the middle of the day, and the supper was vcrv often meagre owing to the repugnance or satiety of boiled river white-fish without trimmings. Tom Wood. the steward. or mess waiter. was not much of .1 bread maker, and spoiled more good flour than was nccess.:iry, consequently the evening meal was not conducive to high living. Our own little private suppers in the guardroom, the products of our own guns, hunt­ ing and fishing, eked out with importations of canned luxuries to as great an extent as our purchasing ability permitted. were therefore all the more prized, and our storeroom between the windows. in the room used as a pantry usually in Winter, was stocked with wood grouse, trout, methye, Lota Maculoso-a fresh water ling whose fat liver was a delicacy equal to any pate de fois gras. deer tongues and marrowbones. When Winter approached, the storm windows were attached to the guardroom and made wind and air-tight by caulking. In some cases to provide visibility or clearness, the panes were doubled, thus forming a vacuum, preventing frost from obscuring the view. The inside window in the pantry was made to open. and the space between the outer and inner windows held trout. etc.. as described, in a frozen condition, as a natural refrigerator. Here again the community spirit prevailed and we shared equally in what was to be had. Eggs were cheap in those days, and cost us a shilling a dozen landed. Almost all our private supplies were received from and through Stromness, Orkney agents, and all eggs received were packed in fairly fine salt. Salt _was a valued commodity besides being in that cold country or climate. a perfect preservative, and insuring unbroken delivery

58 in shipping. The quantity of eggs imported among the officers rather astonished me and in 1880 we had two hundred and fifty dozen in the guardroom alone. These eggs naturally augmented our cuisine, only instead of considering them as a breakfast food, they were eaten at night in our intermittent refreshments. The advantage of being on the seaboard, and in direct communication by ship from Britain, was pronounced at York Factory, and we fared better in consequence than the interior or isolated posts, where living was of a more serious nature owing to the difficulties of transport and paucity of inter­ communication. At the metropolis of York Factory we were never scared of starvation, but always had something to eat, but at Churchill, for example, we were on the verge of hunger many a time, and had to conserve every ounce and morsel of food, as our imported meats were decidedly limited, in fact some 1100 pounds, composed of three barrels salt pork, one tierce salt beef. one hundred pounds bacon, and the luxury of one case canned corned-beef containing a dozen tins, as extreme emergency rations, formed our whole year's outfit.

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59 CHAPTER XIV

Wintert s Work

Mention has been made of the library. York Factory was fortunate in having a goodly collection of books, amounting to nineteen hundred volumes when I left in 1889. Who started the library is probabl Y unknown, but the process of collecting must have gone on for many years, taking, for example, the annual bound numbers of "Punch", contained therein, though not complete from the beginning. The duty of librarian fell to the apprentice clerk for more reasons than one, the chief however being, that the ten shillings fee, otherwise to be paid from his first year's salary of twenty pounds, was allowed for his services, and meant much to him. The higher officers paid one pound, the clerks ten shillings and the mechanics and labourers five shillings annually, the same rate applying, if I remember aught, to post managers and men in the district and adjoining ones. The books covered many fields of knowledge, selection being made from catalogues received from London by the ship, at an annual meeting, held prior to the departure of the Winter packet which carried the next year's order to England via Winnipeg. The men had a representative, but dependence was placed almost entirely on the officers, who tried to get the best, and most for the available funds. The Company did not charge transportation for these books. The first care was to attend to the annuals, "Punch", "Chambers Journal", "House­ hold Words" and one or two others. Then came the choice of standard authors, or the completion of former series on various subjects with tales of adventure for the men. No trash was allowed. We could not afford to get worthless books. Thus was continued the good work of building up the library, and reflected the character of its subscribers. The library was open on Saturday evenings, and the only illumination in Winter was with a candle. No fires allowed at any time. It was extremely cold work some nights when the thermometer was in the region of minus 40, or a blizzard blow­ ing. We were supposed to keep open for an hour after ringing

60 FSOUIMO WOMAN AND CHILDREN f- WJ ....Jz 0 ....J [.J.J LL. 0::: WJ f- V) WJ J: u LL. 0 , 0 <( WJ J: ' f- <(

V) 0 ~ ::i 0 V) WJ the big bell, on this occasion a privilege, or till everybody had pored around the shelves and made his week's selection. One night I happened to place the end of my pencil in my mouth, and the graphite or lead adhered to my tongue. The preserva­ tion and condition of the books were marvellous, considering the varieties of temperature they were subjected to during the year. One of my first inspirations was to check over the books. a rather difficult task with a neglected catalogue, and practically no record of what books were at the outposts, whereby numbers could be located, or determined as missing. During that and the next Winter my spare time was devoted to stock-taking, getting information from the posts, making a new catalogue, classifying the books acording to my immature ideas, hampered considerably by my ignorance, but having an intuitive instinct for system. Copies of the catalogue were made for each post, so that selection would not be left to the librarian, and avoiding complications, as one could not know the tastes of the sub­ scribers, or keep track of what books they had previously received, a happy-go-lucky policy having been followed for some years. With these catalogues, however, they could now send in their own lists, making a margin for books which might be in circulation at some other place. A list of the year's importations to enter into their copies was sent annually. In this way the catalogues were kept up-to-date, and the work of forwarding books once a year by water transportation made easier and effective. The overhauling and systematizing process gave me an acquaintance with the volumes under my charge, though I did not become much of a reader, till I felt the want of companion­ ship later when located at an outpost myself. There must have been an inherent love of books however in my composition, as this experience was never uninteresting, an incentive to help those so isolated, that any little oversight on ordering anything on their part meant a delay of one or two years. That library was my best friend, and in later years I reaped the reward of my exertions, and became indebted to the founders for many happy hours. Goldsmith said, ''The first time I read an excellent work it is to me just as if I had gained a new friend; and when I read over a book I have perused before, it resembles the meeting with an old one." The library afforded us material for many a social evening.

61 subse­ and we formed a "Literary Society", which name was "The quently altered in a jocose manner among the officers to Mutual Admiration Society", everybody aiding or participating Mr. in the proceedings coming in for thanks and praise. Winter Fortescue was the qualified leader. The Rev. George S. in his gave little talks on becoming a band of brothers. that inexperience, at that time, being ignorant of the fact a full small places and intimate association were conducive to realization of the failings of our compatriots or neighbors. Mr. J. K. McDonald, Mr. Cowie, Dr. Mathews. Wm. read­ Wood, (B) the postmaster, and the men all contributed ings, songs, recitations, chemistry exhibits, yarns and experiences.

62 CHAPTER XV

December, Mail Time and Indians

December was a particularly busy month. We were working overtime at its commencement getting the "packet" ready to start to Norway House, with the accounts, and our private soul unburdened letters to relatives and friends. The packet was in charge of two Cree Indians, who had made the trip via Oxford to Norway House many a time, till they were looked on as specialists. and from long experience entitled to the honour and emoluments. No dogs were taken to haul their toboggans, the men performing that service themselves, thus eliminating the trouble of feeding, bedding and looking after them. With the departure of the packet, there was relaxation till the Indians began to arrive from their different localities, north, west and south, for the purpose of trade, and ceremonials of Christmastide. Mr. McDonald was kept in the trading room, as he had charge of this department, and the inside of the factory showed the activity of an increased population. The Indians exchanged tales with one another, as they had not met for months, called on the officer in charge, and related their woes and penury, ( they were full of them when wanting to get more credit than they sometimes deserved in the trading room), then paid their respects to the clergyman. with great expectations of participating in the bales of goods sent out from the Old Country, by generous volunteer enthusiasts on behalf of "Lo, the poor Indian". Missionaries. some of them impractical in a business sense, made the mistake of distributing these goods indiscriminately, that is. they did not study the Indian nature especially, and human nature generally, as to the effects of free distribution of garments, clothing. etc., in nullifying the importance or value of their action. The Indians in time, came naturally then to consider these goods peculiarly their own, and showed assertive rights for their possession. Giving something for nothing never realized any genuine satisfaction. and generally ended in strained

63 relations on both sides, with the advantage on the Indian's side of an appearance of injured innocence, being deprived of his or her friend's beneficence in England. Like his white brother, he would become disgruntled by pampering, and this distribution of free articles, did not tend to the advancement of the Indian character. He was as prone as his white brother to get as much as possible without working or paying for it. Other missionaries understanding the amount of work, time and worry entailed, as represented by these and desirous of making the Indian appreciate them, charged a small fee or exchanged food, thus instilling the values and acknowledgment of service rendered. The old and incapable Indians were looked after gratuitously. This distri­ bution of missionary gifts attracted all Indians who could walk or travel, and with the fall hunt to be traded, made Christmas­ tide the gala time of the year. The Company did not exactly favor Indians congregating about the factory or posts. as it meant the lessening of the Indians' will power to provide for themselves, and their becom­ ing more dependent on imported provisions. The Company's policy had been to keep the Indian in as natural state as they found him, and preserve his ability to cater for himself, subsist in his own environment and supply the posts with fresh or dried meats. Of necessity, there was little opportunity to aid the deterioration of the Indian in this respect, at the posts (as distinct from head posts of districts) , considering the meagreness of their own resources. The aforesaid policy did not meet the approbation of outsiders, whose interests were not so acute in the preservation of the Indian character, and to refute any possible wrong understanding of the situation in which the Company was placed, it may be stated, as a homely simile, that if they milked the cow, they looked after the welfare of the animal, mutual benefit being the ultimate result. It is very questionable if any real benefit is derived from the prevailing idea, that natives, under ordinary circumstances, should be improved by adopting the white man's mode of living, and general standards of existence. To keep the aboriginals as self­ supporting in their own country or locality tends to the longevity of their race. The world, however, demands their extinction by so-called education, and the passing of the race was certainly not hastened by the Company's humane non-interference with tribal characteristics. The Indian is perhaps no worse or better than we are. The

64 Company saw that they were treated fairly and with considera­ tion, and no man or woman called in their extremity, without receiving all the comfort we could give. One old Cree, had been converted. He had been a medicine man, and no doubt had imposed upon his fellow tribesmen, his reputation being none of the best. As he lay dying that Winter, his old gods kept calling to him, till he became so disturbed over the interference with his thoughts, and his desire to follow the white man's God, that he sent for his fellow practitioner, Doctor Mathews, and pathetically implored him to give him some white man medicine to keep his thoughts from reverting to ancient teachings, and to be steadfast as a Christian.

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65 CHAPTER XVI

Christmas

Preceding the regular Christmas ceremonies and festivities there was the bustle of preparation, chief among them being "Shop Day". For the purpose of economizing time and labour, and in accordance with the Company's system of conserving the officers' and men's wages, there were only two shop days practically in the year. the principal one before Christmas. when some of the newest goods could be had, with such little luxuries as confections or sweeties in very simple form, a few raisins and currants to give the cannon-ball grease-pudding a semblance to its civilized plum brother of happy memory. Much deliberation took place among all classes in regard to purchases. especially men with wives and children, the process of cutting out articles approaching the fine art from experience. Unlike civilized barbarians we kept within the limits of our purses. schooled our roaming inclinations to actual necessities, only relaxing Spartan discipline when Christmas, that glad time of the year. warranted an exhibition of somewhat pathetic extrava­ gance in its very poverty of selection. Yet from these limited resources and opportunities, more genuine pleasure was derived and seen. than could be thought possible by anyone who had not witnessed wholesome enjoyment and happiness in the school of experience, where many possessions are certainly not burden­ some. With everybody supplied according to the extent of their resources. and the limitations of luxuries, the arrival of Father Christmas was looked forward to with satisfaction. The officers. however. had to face an opening ordeal of welcoming the Indian ladies and treating them to conversation sweeties, white and colored confections with words printed on them such as .. I love you" in gaudy colours, with a few muscatel raisins thrown in for variety. The ladies were dressed in printed calico, those opulent in the world displaying narrow saresnet ribbons to assist their charms. There was a concoction manu­ factured at the factory called Pomatum, colored grease with a strong perfume, decidedly an adjunct to any lady's toilet. 66 These said ladies plastered their straight black hair till all was pink, and the wind wafted their presence from afar off. Old and young, ugly and beautiful were there, to give and receive the Kiss of Peace, which the custom of years had con­ firmed into their sacred right and as a rite. Just as in the old days at Little Whale River, the officers used to go to the factor's room. and take a nip of H.B. rum-genuine old stuff-to fortify themselves before tackling a meal of whale's tongue or steak, so on this occasion a little nip of the Christmas allowance of well-preserved dark brandy, port or sherry wine was necessary. when the vanguard of old hags appeared, to sustain us through the infliction. No lady would think of missing such an eventful opportunity, and they did not even overlook my insignificant person. There was no use trying to dodge their caresses. They had come to caress, and went through their duty to themselves with vim and thoroughness. Well one must suffer sometimes for one's country. "England expects every man to do his duty". so the onslaught on our affections and confections was successfully met to the glory of the Company of Adventurers. and the joy of living to the dusky dames of Keewatin. Next came the Indian men, staid and undemonstrative, in great contrast to their women, who gravely shook hands, said "What Cheer" the common seaman's salutation, engrafted in the Cree language from constant repetition and relevancy. The noble red man was content to accept, as a concession to our inferiority on this occasion, a glass of sugar beer, when another shake and "What Cheer" brought the proceedings to our public reception to a close. Following the practical transfer of its charter rights of Rupert's Land by the Company in 1869, and owing to the rapidly increasing facilities of transportation in the development of Red River, Manitoba was created a Province in 1870, and old Fort Garry with its name changed to Winnipeg became the provincial capital marking a momentous change and epoch in the history of the Company, the head office work and surplus supplies were necessarily moved to Winnipeg, and the decadence or diminution of historic York Factory begun by the side­ tracking process of Father Time. When the reserve liquor was forwarded, a certain amount was kept at the factory, a foreseeing prec~ution whe~ the Territorial Government assumed control of liquor, and tt was

67 from this source the officers received their Christmas remem­ brance of old customs, one bottle each of old brandy, port and sherry wine being deposited in the several rooms by Mr. Fortescue's orders on Christmas Eve. During his tenure of office, till he left in 1884, he was able to continue this welcome spirit offering of goodwill, being generous and of good under­ standing, but his successor, after allowing the two senior clerks-Cowie and myself-the blessed privilege for another year, finally ceased the ancient and much appreciated custom, keeping the liquor to himself. Liquors could only be obtained by permit through the Lieutenant-Governor of Keewatin, hence the well-husbanded reserve at York Factory was valued accordingly, apart from its unrivalled quality. Hudson's Bay blankets and Hudson's Bay liquors are still synonyms of that quality. The sugar beer was a local product, the ingredients being brown sugar, hops (privately imported) and yeast. The brew­ ing was started in September, or as soon as the supply of sugar could be obtained after the ship's arrival, so as to be ready for the Christmas treating. Watching the process of fermentation, skimming the workings or froth, etc., made anticipation of the :finished product a constant joy, and fund of conversation as to its final merits. Not that we could make it deadly intoxicating, but if we could clarify it, by straining and settling, make it show a head, and taste the hops, imagination could do the rest, raising the concoction to the dignity of Bass's best. No one ever got drunk on sugar beer, and good liquor was too scarce and valuable in emergencies to be abused. There were no "mornings after" in Hudson Bay, at the time of which I write, though in former days up till 1870, there was more or less rum rationed out to the men, to bring out any old animosities among the fighters with chips on their shoulders, who desired to start the year with black eyes and a salved conscience. Many were the stories told me by old William Gibeault of the Christmas Homeric combats, inspired by demon rum in the olden days, when would-be gladiators went outside their houses or tents, flapped their arms, and issued a challenge to all and sundry by cock-crow. Bishop John Horden, who had arrived in the late fall by canoe, September 19th, 18 79, paying his first visit to this part of his immense diocese, had been engaged since his advent in teaching the Rev. George S. Winter the Cree language and

68 instructing him generally in his new sphere. Mr. Fortescue and Bishop Borden had been friends and companions at Moose Factory over twenty years ago. On this Christmas Day, the venerated Bishop conducted the Anglican Church services, assisted by the Rev. George S. Winter. The little church was filled with whites and Crees, bringing East and West together. Theirs was no mean part in making the Indians, men, women and children happy for one day at least, in their nomadic exist­ ence, with gifts from the good folks in England, and a Christmas tree for the juveniles. After church service and lunch, there might be a dog driving for diversion, when each officer or man, was supposed to drive his Indian or halfbreed washerwoman, as a slight token of appreciation for her valued services, to make her feel proud, so that she would continue the aforesaid valued services on another year's contract. The dogs, with gaily-decorated saddle-cloths, tinkling rows of round metal bells, carefully-attended harness, and the gaily-painted carioles, carrying their dusky occupants encased in deerskin or buffalo robes, swept through the gates, team after team, making for the frozen river by the bull track ( used in Winter as a means to convey water in barrels through the ice holes, and to the factory), where racing commenced, to the cracking of whips and yells of the drivers. In the crisp cold air, one felt the exhilaration of the ozone, besides the excitement of the occasion, and another variation of the joy of living was experienced. The dogs knew that this outing was no start on a long trip with heavily-loaded sleds to break their hearts and requiring conservation of energy, so were in fine fettle. They bounded with exhilaration till the bells jingled with merriment. Everyone, human or canine was infected with inflated boister­ ousness. Black Care had no place in that racing procession over ice and snow, there was no room for trouble or sorrow in the glowing exuberance of Peace and genuine Goodwill. We had the whole world to ourselves, wherein to give utterance to our feelings, and the air was charged with yells, bow-wowing and laughter. Verily life was worth living in such an atmosphere of healthy happiness. Scenes or occasions like this, though few and far between, yielded pleasurable recollections, which even advancing old age with its attendant disabilities cannot destroy, but on the contrary help us to realize the compensations of less­ favored situations. As an appetizer for a good dinner, a five or six-mile run, under such circumstances as herein narrated, cannot be equalled 69 or surpassed. Modern cocktails cannot compare with Arctic air and exercise. and when on returning to the fort, we had given the dogs their Christmas dinner to their full content, had an icy-cold tub, a rub down with a rough towel, a change of clean dry underwear, with our best suit, and new fancy silk­ wrought moccasins to adorn our outward persons, we felt prepared in every way for the great event-the CHRISTMAS DINNER. The latest fall fresh wild-geese had been preserved in nature's storage for the occasion. There was beaver, young succulent and tender, wood-grouse-pheasants we used to call them­ trout caught through the river ice, the best of lake white-fish, fried on this occasion, and browned to a turn, a haunch of fat juicy tender gamey venison, with cranberry jelly, pastry and plum puddings. nuts, raisins, and figs (if you please) for dessert, with the old seasoned port and sherry wines, whose mellowness ;rnd strength was hidden beneath a velvet taste. There was the unequalled blended tea of Hyson and Souchong, unadulterated coffee, and cigars and cheroots of exquisite :flavor to soothe desire and make repletion heavenly. Mrs. Fortescue had directed the culinary operations specially. so that Tom Wood, the steward, had not the chance to mar matters by faulty cooking. As we crossed the seas or land, mentally, in toasting "Absent Friends" and sang "Auld Lang Syne My Dears", we were filled with solids, liquids and sentiment. What better ending than the remembrance conveyed in the following: "We speak of a Merry Christmas And many a Happy New Year, But each in his heart is thinking Of those, who are not here." Gone are the familiar faces who sat around that Christmas table as far as I know, but the board is still spread in imagination, and they are ever present.* Is it not worth while being able to frame such a picture of unalloyed enjoyment, mental and physical. and look at it daily. I would my pencil could have made it more beautiful. for a Christmas gathering eliminates selfishness, bringing us nearer the perfection of human attributes and aims, than at any other time of our existence.

*I met the Rev. G. S. Winter and his good wife on 1st May, 1924, at Bristol. England. He left York Factory in I 892.

70 The dinner was something more than mere gastronomic enjoyment, it was a preparation for the harder exercise in testing our further endurance at the dance which heralded a whole week's nightly rioting of the light fantastic till New Year's Day. The interval following the dinner and preceding the departure to "the Cooper's Shop" where the "ball" was to be held provided relaxation of mind and body. When the call came that all was ready for action once more, we were physically fit to compete with the Indians, halfbreeds and white, everybody being invited as equals of happiness on this occasion. Competi­ a tion was the correct word. Dancing in those days meant harder test than even tripping on the trails demanded. No mincing steps in languorous glidations and undulations of swaying figure could fit in with the racing tunes that halfbreeds. Indian or white musicians extracted from their fiddles. The fire of the violins ignited the tow of wild nature, and caused explosions of individual atomic energy, which raged with the lust of health and expression. Dancing! Why it was a whirl­ wind of vitality and speed! The floor was rough and much cut up from splitting wood; people who wanted to sit. did so on benches, boxes, planks or the floor. The stoves glowed red with intense heat. the moccasined feet followed the lightning notes with equal rapidity and time. When the hubbub drowned the fiddler's sounds, the thudding of the moccasin feet, indicated the beats. What did it matter if a string or two gave way under the strain of frenzied arms and strength of bow, the pounding of feet brooked no delay. "On with the dance ye cripples. let joy be unconfined". Who said "stop"? Kill him! Unconfined was that glorious dancing exhibition. Men sweated for having no petticoats or dresses, they could not hide their leg action as women could, and had to give their best in Red River jigs, Scotch reels, the Rabbit, Duck dances and old Dan Tucker. If men dropped exhausted, others took their placl' with a whoop of delight and derision. The only safe place for recuperation was on a snow bank outside with 40 degrees below zero. or seeking the immense tea-kettles, with lots of sugar--extravagance for this occasion only-and hard biscuits. The officers had to meet the greatest demand of the female dancers. Women's suffrage was conceded to the dusky dames. the right to choose their own partners, and the wall flowers and others exercised their newly-discovered power by an onslaught on the "ookimows", whom they have admired from afar off, but till this moment of their freedom of selection. the rigid rules of 71 the superiority of man, had relegated them to oblivion. The old and ugly were the equal of the young and beautiful, yea superior, for their .time on earth was more restricted, and no opportunities must be wasted. Talk of the ravenous birds of the air seeking prey, they were immobile compared with these squaws. No rest for the weary. Stay with them boys and give them the time of their emancipation and hitherto sub­ servient, almost emotionless lives. Everybody young in heart and feet, the prison doors of conventionality opened that joy might enter the withered heart, beautifying the old, deserving of happiness faces. Are not these poor people the source of our maintenance, by their labours and privations in the woods. Pay your debts to them with all the goodwill imaginable, and wear your moccasins out as proof and in earnest honest endeavor to please though you carried away "Norfolk Howard's" on your clothes. Alloway' s Kirk scene could alone convey a correct conception of the agility and vim of the dancers. "The mirth and fun grew fast and furious: The piper loud and louder blew, The dancers quick and quicker flew, They reeled, they set, they crossed, they cleckit ( caught hold on one another) Till ilka carlin swat and reekit". One needed to grab something, to sustain one's equilibrium in the giddy whirl. and arms were as much employed as the feet in swinging partners and obtaining a fulcrum of stability. Right well did every one do their level best to keep the fun and their feet moving. A whole year's bottling of anticipated pleasure was uncorked that night, and the elixir of joy was too rare a vintage to be wasted by intermissions. The whole performance was no mean test of endurance. It was a whirl­ pool, a maelstrom, and only the fit could hope to survive. A modern ballroom looks like a graveyard in comparison. The dresses of the Indian men and women brightened up the dim candle-lit interior, the women in various patterned and colored printed-cotton dresses with narrow saresnet ribbons, beautifully-wrought silk and beadwork moccasins, redolent of Pomatum and scent with bandana silk handkerchiefs for head­ gear. The men had on capots of white and black duffle, the richer ones, swelled with pride under their fine blue-cloth capots

72 with gilt buttons. Gaudy L'assomption sashes girded their loins, while beaded or silk wrought caps of tanned deerskin adorned their heads. On the feet and legs, moccasins tanned, smoked or in plain white, in fancy-colored silk-worked designs and beaded leggings with ornamental garters, attracted attention causing complimentary comment on the perfectness of their get up. No Beau Brummell felt himself more the arbiter of fashion than these noble red men. Our men vied in the adornment of their persons and sported silk flower-wrought deerskin shirts or coats. As far as dress was concerned it was a gorgeous display of fashion and backwood conception of the fitness of raiment. When the room warmed up, and the sweat began to trickle down the walls from the heated perspiring multitude, capots and superfluous clothing were discarded. Their shirts clung so tightly and wetly to the men's backs, that they would have to be torn off, to be removed, otherwise they would also have been laid aside. The women took matters more philosophically, but stayed to the end some of the belles displaying heroic continuity and fortitude in dancing with all comers. With only a couple of hours in which to have a cold tub and sleep before breakfast, we left an experience of unalloyed happiness no one could forget. So ended my first Christmas at York Factory in 1879.

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73 CHAPTER XVII

Bishop John Hord en

When at Moose Factory in the fall of 1878, it was my good fortune to meet Bishop Harden, his wife and several members of his family. With that meeting commenced a friendship between us, the influence of which has been with me all my life­ time. the marvel being that one so richly endowed in the highest qualifications of mind and experience, and from his exalted station among men. could find time or inclination to remember me, as he did, to the last years of his life. John Harden was always a busy man, yet he seemed to have the faculty of keeping in touch far and near with "All sorts and conditions of men". His personality was great and magnetic. combining calm dignity with a warmth of heart for his fellow­ men, soothing and comforting. whether in his immediate proximity or thousands of miles away. the recipients of his kind careful attention. David Anderson, the first Bishop of Rupert's Land, in "The Net in the Bay", a classic missionary gem, recording his own arrival at Moose Factory 3rd August, 1852, said, "Mr. Harden was at the time engaged with service, found at work." These last three words, "found at work" were true of John Harden till his death in 1893 at Moose Factory. Bishop Anderson, consecrated in 1849, ordained John Horden deacon and priest in August, 185 2. and in 1872 assisted his consecration in West­ minster Abbey, when John Horden became the first Bishop of :'vloosonee. Serving a year as catechist before being ordained deacon and priest Bishop Horden's ministrations extended over twenty-one years. In 1879 he paid his first episcopal visit to York Factory, instructing the Rev. George S. Winter into the Cree language and early the following year, visited Fort Churchill. Being at York Factory during the time of his winter's sojourn in 1879- 1880, I had many opportunities of acquiring his friendship. and though I was only sixteen years of age, his thoughtful

74 interest bridged the disparity of our ages and created confidence and respect. In 1880 Bishop Horden visited Churchill and met a number of Esquimaux. He held service in the little iron church, and this being the first experience of the Esquimaux with the white man's religion, they thought that what the white man did. they had to do, consequently when the Bishop put on his spectacles, all the Esquimaux immediately donned their wooden goggles, used to protect their eyes from snow blindness. These goggles were made of wood to conform to the bridge of the nose, and had a horizontal narrow slit opposite each eye, through which the wearer could see. The action of the Esquimaux was so spontaneous and decorous, that the "spectacle" was very amusing. The Bishop arrived at Churchill in 1889 on his second pastoral inspection, and this was the last occasion on which we met. He always evinced a fatherly and brotherly interest in me. and words cannot describe his sympathetic and consoling influ­ ence in dealing with his fellow man. Every one received the same considerate treatment, from the lowest to the highest. and every one benefitted. To leavg or make impressions for good, which will last a lifetime, is a qualification not given to every one in authority. The respect with which the names of Bishop Anderson and Bishop Horden are reverenced today by the recipients of their intercourse and communion, is the greatest tribute and acknowledgment of their great powers in whole­ some living. Just before Bishop John Harden died-January 1893-at Moose Factory. he wrote me to distant Cassiar, and I willingly paid the miner ( the usual fee of $1 for each letter, there being no postal service) who brought the letter from Wrangel up the Stickeen River, across the Divide to Dease Lake and to :'\le Dame's Creek in the dead of winter-saying he was teaching himself Hebrew. This was emblematic of his career, his perseverance and success. He learned the Cree language during his first year at Moose Factory while catechist, and his wide knowledge of important material subjects. combined with a judicious retentive mentality, self-developed, acquired and trained during a residence of forty-one years at the Hudson's Bay post at Moose Factory. made him a man among men. Busy and aged as he was. with all his family in the old country, he found time to keep in touch with me. and his last letter was received in lonely Cassiar to 75 cheer, and become a cenotaph of exceeding great gratitude and affectionate remembrance. Bishop Horden and Mr. Fortescue are types of men so inspiring, so capable, so distinguished in their unconscious superiority that they remain lovable. One who has knelt at their feet regrets his inability to so chronicle their influence and character, that their example should live in others, and be under­ stood by their values as true friends. There can be no barren grounds of thought, loneliness or kindness, when we have come in contact with such men. "This spray of Western Pine"* is an evergreen to their memory.

*Bret Harte.

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76 '\

}. l z 0 V) _J w z r <(

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I/ \ ·'' ...J UJ > <( 0::: l- o:: UJ > -0::: 0::: 0u.. l­ ...... J :,) o:i CHAPTER XVIII

Letters

~ew Year's Day saw the last of the revels, dog racing. feasting, the men and Indians contributing their share of viands, chiefly fat juicy venison and beaver-and dancing. The serious business of trapping and tripping once more resumed its inter­ rupted course. The Indians departed in bands to their respective hunting grounds, and our thoughts were free to turn to the next excitement, the arrival of the winter packets, especially that from Winnipeg with letters from home. I had no letters from the time I left Orkney in June, and with the exception of Canadian letters received by the fall canoe and Bishop Horden's arrival, there had been no outside news. Long before the packet left in mid-December. I had been engaged in writing letters in the long evenings and pouring out my immortal soul to connect with kindred spirits, relieving the heartache of separation and trying to excite envy among my late schoolmates, by a descrip­ tion of the adventurous life. so different to the even tenor of their-to thern--cornrnonplace environments. As I lift my eyes while writing these lines, I can see the photograph of one. who in those days seemed to draw forth my best attempts of letter talking. creating inspiration from an intuitive knowledge of sympathetic understanding. so that words and ideas flowed and were transcribed easily. On such recep­ tivity was laid a foundation on which to unburden one's mind. and relieve the soul in its longing for intimate companionship. and as the year passed, the value of this safety valve of letters became more deeply understood, and treasured as a life saver. No wonder Hudson Bay men were good letter-writers. as they unlocked the prison gates of isolation, and revelled in the mental communion which makes life under any condition worth living. Their letters were not formalities, not forced corn positions of polite insignificance, or expediency; on the contrary they exuded a genuineness of feeling and warmth of expression that only those so situated could germinate and develop to fruition. They had something to say and said it naturally. Like their reputation for hospitality, the effect of their letters conveyed attention to 77 and interest in the recipients thereof, seldom failing to give satisfaction and pleasure just for that reason. The joy of seeing a fresh face, where visitors were few and far between, the joy of having a correspondent to help keep them in touch with the Mother Land, called forth spontaneous ebullitions of restricted opportunities, made the supposed donors of hospitality and letters actually the debtors of their guests and friends. They could not do enough to show their gratitude for persons or letters, in emancipating them from themselves. We do not honour our guests and friends, in our opinion, they honour us. The preparation of the future harvest of letters having been made by return ship and fall up-river canoe, the advent of the winter packet was looked forward to with an eager expectancy, second only to that of "the ship". Each day the progress of the packeters was debated, and conjectures made as to the changes in the world we had left. If there was one thing the packeters were proud of, it was arriving on time, and such was the regularity and experience for years the dates of departure or arriv.:d showed little difference, and could be almost depended on to a day. A delay of a week portended trouble of weather, sickness, accidents from axes, and was exceptional with the winter packet. The packet made up in Winnipeg in oiled coverings, encased in canvas or despatch box left Winnipeg, say 12th December, reaching Norway House by way of Dog Head, Beren's River, Polar River, on the 29th, when the packeters connected with the York Factory men and exchanged loads. Oxford House would be reached on the 5th January, and York Factory eleven days later on the 16th January. The Churchill from the north, Severn and Trout Lake from the south, packets usually reached York Factory from the 25th to the end of January. The Spring (second winter) packet started from York Factory on or about the 11th March, reached Oxford House 20th, left 22nd, and arrived at Norway House on the 26th. Following exchanges the packeters left 30th, arriving at Fort Garry 9th April, and Winnipeg 10th, according to way bill, or taking 30 days from York Factory to Winnipeg. The Winter, Spring ship and fall packets or mails were the regular reliable harbinger of hopes, fears and world cataclysms. the summer Hayes River route deliveries by canoe or York boat being intermittent and casual. Efforts were made to hide the feelings of "great expectations" and appear seasoned to the great event, but old and young never

78 could totally suppress the hopes, anxieties and fears, the bundles in canvas or boxes on the toboggan contained, and never would forget the thrill of the first participation therein. Gone is the mask of indifference, gone is the decorum of discipline just the glorious tumult of natural feelings unleashed to teach us life's compensations in a "great lone land". We rush to meet the Indian packeters, and shake the hands of our newly discovered brothers under their winter weather-scarred dusky faces. For this moment they are reaping the reward of recognition as the central figures of importance, following their plodding, monotonous perambulations for a month on snow­ shoes, making their own camps, cooking their own meals. hauling their own sleds, finding their own trails. They deserved the gratification of the hearty genuine welcome coming to them. The packet was taken to the mess house and opened, letters from home were distributed to expectant hands, and the gamut of human expression and feeling began with the examination of handwriting conjecture of contents and the why and wherefore of everything in general. Such a conglomeration of shocks, as letters were opened in the sanctity of one's own room, cannot be experienced but once in a lifetime. Many things can happen in six months, and a youthful imagination, not yet case hardened with the changes that must necessarily occur in life, suffer from concussions and explosions. till his former conceptions and world have no cohesion, and he finds himself in a cataclysm of wonderment which turns his ideas upside down, downside upmost, whirls him to right and left, buffets him with the highest attainment of happiness. and the lowest depths of sorrow, makes his mouth mirthful, while his eyes shed tears. rends his heart-strings in exquisite torture and repairs their outrage with the equal elastic exquisiteness of heavenly joy. When all the letters were read, and photographs studied, the extreme swings of the pendulum of emotion slow down to the happy mean of acceptance and resignation, till normality is enthroned once again. This process is not however achieved in a minute. This recital reveals the imprint that tho' time has mollified and rounded off the corners, the experience was too deeply impressed to be eradicated. The warm affection of the written word of the living, gradually mellowed any loss we may have sustained, and finally cheered us on to the expectancy of the next packet. The influence of letters was incalculable. it kept the thermometer of human interest at blood heat. and provided no space for coldness or neglect. 79 CHAPTER XIX

Christmas and Mainly Dogs

This Christmas was only a dog. and an expert would find it difficult to name the breed he originated from, being a mixture of sorts which defies description. He was not a large dog in body. though his head was large and out of proportion, account­ ing for his reasoning and brain powers. He was wiry and short red-haired, showing great muscular power, quick in action and little escaped his eyes or ears. If there was a sound of a fight among the dogs, Christmas was soon on the scene, and joining in the rumpus \\'ith the greatest good will and heart of a born fighter. His cars were thick. and showed the scars of battle, also his head and legs. In the melee his small lithe twisting body escaped chastisement miraculously, and he was seldom actually hors de combat. though often considerably chewed up. As the factory had from thirty to forty company dogs, Indians and whites, possessing one to three, a couple starting a fight soon collected all the dogs in the vicinity, when the fight became general. There was safety in numbers apparently, as dogs were seldom killed, also the sound of combat brought officers and men, whose whips were always in a handy place for action, and used unsparingly as a necessity, so that little serious harm ensued to the dogs in their free-for-all fights. All the same, strict watch had to be kept on the dogs. as sometimes, though rarely they attacked children, or anyone who ran away from them and appeared timid. One Indian boy was badly bitten, when, as he was running ahead of a returning team he stumbled on the trail. The dogs immediately overtook and piled on him. Probably this started a fight among themselves. and the boy became in their estimation as a dog, so they severe! y mauled him before the dog drivers were able to use their whips and rescue him. Another instance in my recollection was when >.Libel. a young daughter of John Spencer, was running round the corner of a building towards the depot. A dog, catching a glimpse of the vanishing figure, immediately gave chase to investi­ gate the phenomenon. Other dogs lying about, this was in summer time, their attention attracted to the sudden commotion.

80 jumped up also and chased the first. In an instant there was a racing multitude and Mabel was knocked down. Luckily her screams were heard, when she first observed the dogs after her, so that men reached the spot before it was too late, otherwise she would have been torn to pieces. As it was she was badly bitten. . T_he only safet,:-, besides the protection of the dog-whip, is m facmg or advancmg to meet the onslaught. They recognize the mastery of man in the attitude, and fear consequences. One little Indian boy was chased by these dogs in summer, when they had their liberty to roam about, and were not tied or locked­ up, but managed to escape in the office. Mr. McDonald gave a practical demonstration of teaching the Indian boy and the dogs a lesson. Giving the boy a whip, he made him go out among the dogs and administer punishment, till he drove them all from the vicinity, and so taught them how to behave. The boy regained his confidence. The whips had a heart of moose or deerskin, filled with dust or #7 shot to give weight in the stroke, and was plaited with strips of the same material, remaining pliable. Full half inch in diameter, a whip would be six feet long, from the handle to its taper point, and with its fourteen to eighteen inch wooden handle, a most formidable weapon of defence or offence. Dog drivers became very skilled in its use, and could administer punishment to a dog, while standing behind it on its own traces, without touching, though the whistling lash frightened the others. Feeding time in the dog corral required two and some­ times three men's attendance, as when a large piece of whale meat was thrown out with a fork, a fight usually followed, to the disregard of dinner, till the whips became the arbiters of peace and protection. The dogs at York Factory were mixtures of everything, Newfoundland, Esquimaux, Indian, possibly wolves, and imported dogs, though attention was given to have t?e Esquimaux and Indian breeds mixed, as the product was hardier for travelling through the woods in deeper snow, than the thicker-furred protected pure thoroughbred Esquimaux dogs, nature endowing the latter for the needs of the exposed barren grounds, treeless wastes, ice and hardened-snow conditions and rigorous climate. Besides, the mixed breed was more easily fed with the oatmeal fish space-conserving rations on the toboggan, than the bulkier and more easily obtained whaleskin and meat at Churchill. 81 \\'ith the exception of the local firewood, hauled by oxen on large sleds, built on runners, dogs were used for all other transport purposes, and were the mainstays of our existence in hauling deer and fish. The dogs were well cared for, especially by their white drivers, who attended their own teams personally. and as a result showed the careful treatment by ending up a trip in better condition and with heavier loads. But in spite of all care the dogs had a strenuous life and many are the scenes and sufferings on the trail. through stern necessity, hard times, bad travelling and weather conditions, one would like to forget. Even the veriest mongrels of the teams earned respect by their devotion to do their best, and cannot be overlooked in a record of faithfulness to man and the Company. The poor dear brutes could talk with eye and tail, seldom failed, except through exhaustion, and the phlegmatic Indian has often conceded his highest praise of anything living by saying "Tapway Napao", "truly he is a man". And when an Indian can ascend to that great height from an indifference which despises near! y all things, the virtues of a dog have indeed been made manifest. He who loves dogs is beloved by them, and they alas'. give more than they receive. A man cannot be alone if he has a dog. Like becomes like in animal and human life, and the chosen pup or dog shows the traits and characteristics of his master as he grows older, in more or less degree. No better instance or comparison can be shown than the loving qualifications the pure-bred Esquimaux dog possesses. Brought up in a tent or igloo, as a pup he shares in the contents of the stone kettle, is the playmate of the babies and youngsters, is one of the family. The Esquimaux dog welcomes all comers with geniality. On the other hand the Indian dog seems to have a natural antipathy for the white man, just like his master. He is not straight­ forward, but is secretive and lies in wait to nip and run. No dependence can be placed on his affections, save to his own masters, who too often treat him harshly, unkindly. The worse they are treated the warmer seems this attachment to their tribal masters, an evidence all in favor of the dogs' sterling faithfulness and love, which by the magnanimity of silent forgiveness, can put humans to shame. Only a dog, with the heart of the best, that is in. the best of men, and there were many such who helped the fur traders in their oft-time perilous development of their country as servants and well-beloved friends.

82 CHAPTER XX

Packing at the Depot

Beside the office work, we assisted thi postmaster, William Hood (B), an Orkneyman, and brother of Tom the mess s~eward, in t_he depot, whose chief duties were checking importa­ tions. markmg goods and preparing outfits. He also took meteorological observations for the Smithsonian Institute or the Meteorological Bureau of the United States. The word "outfit", be it understood, meant practically the year, and was compre­ hensive in embracing all goods received or shipped during the period. McTavish would be classified as a product of Outfit 18 70 with equal understanding. "B" represented that he was the second person bearing that name in the Company's service, the letters of the alphabet being used for distinction or segre­ gation. and was illuminative as to the number of Scotchmen with the same names or initials continually in the service. John K. McDonald, from Dingwall, second in charge, was classed as L, and many were the varied letters appended to cognomens of McKenzie, McDonald, etc., surpassing the ubiquitous and honoured name of Smith in the days of pioneers. Such a thing as a fireplace was unknown in that immense building, the forerunner of the department store, consequently chimneys were unnecessary, so William Wood (B) and his satel­ lites had to work during all the below zero months, without artificial heat. The names of many officers and workers with the weights of their respective persons were inscribed on the walls, and are no doubt to be seen there yet, silent symbols of endurance and consideration for safety first, from fire, in their occupation. The depot contained everything necessary for the development of trade and commen::e, and making up the outfits for the different districts and posts was an art of calculation and accuracy, equal only to the perfect package assembled as the final product under the generic name of "pieces", and marked with the distinguishing letter or letters of districts and posts. York Factory, for instance, was YF, a combination adopted when applicable like MR, for Moose River. Churchill consignments were shipped

83 under the letter P. The extensive co-operative workings of harmonious action and expediency, emanated from the London Packing Office, and supervision continued at Hudson Bay depots like York and Moose Factory, graduating to :finality at Rampart House, the Ul tima Thule, in our eyes, of Mackenzie River District. "Returns" was the opposite of "Outfit", and was the generic name for furs, and all trade results which were returned to the Old Country in exchange. So the "Returns" of 1879 was as easily understood as "Ou t:fit", 18 7 9. Goods were packed with regard to combining assorted articles, as much as possible, in oiled protected bales, cases, or kegs, for two reasons. First as a precaution in case of accident on the tortuous and dangerous waterways, etc., where vital articles, if all in one container, would be a total loss and irreplacea blc. "Whole pieces" consisted of articles and goods made up in London with the idea of saving repacking at Bay headquarters. generally of one hundredweight and under, according to the nature of material lending itself to be handily transported by canoe, boat, or men's backs over portages. Few details of preservation were overlooked, for instance, gunpowder kegs were hooped with copper bands, so that when opened and handled, sparks would not emanate therefrom in concussion. Economy of space, especially in tinware and copper, was found in "nesting" kettles from No. 14 to 0, the cypher being the smallest size, and even its interior would be the receptacle of smaller objects. Glass, or other articles, easily breakable, were firmly packed in tow, or with pliable dry goods as wrappers. and so experienced did the packers become, aided by presses, that even the rough treatment of bales, cases and kegs on the portages. loading and unloading from boats, seldom resulted in damage. so sturdily were the contents protected. No company or organiza­ tion ever surpassed the Hudson's Bay Company in putting up goods for transportation, and the marking on bales, etc., was definite and perfect as to destination. Glass was a rare commodity in the olden days and parch­ ments scraped thin and translucent, with a bullet hole in the middle to give visibility, were used as substitutes. The demand. and its useful necessity had to be met, but many were the break­ ages and disappointments caused by rough handling over thousands of miles of land and sea, loading and unloading. The

84 following ingenious method solved the problem, and had a double-barrelled effect for good. The panes of glass were dipped in heated "black strap" or molasses, which when cold became heavy and thick, glueing the panes in a solid block, and therefore impervious to breakage when properly cleanly covered and boxed. All that was necessary to unpack, was to use a little hot water and dilute the adhesive tendency of the molasses temporarily. when the sheets of glass came apart. were cleaned by hot water, the residual compound or mixture becoming a welcomed extra for sweetening the tea, coffee, etc., in a land where every little godsend spelled happiness. One could rely on the system, because it was backed with the brains and hands of practical reliable men. The quality of the goods has always been the Company's consideration. and no man who depended on their lasting qualities and excellence, could ever say they failed in value. The day of trinkets and tinsel of superfluities of cursory raiding free traders had not yet touched us, and the Indians continued to reap the benefit of the best judgment, and goods, suitable to his maintenance and preservation. If the Company wanted a motto other than "Pro Pelle Cutem". they might find it in Safety. Service, and Satisfaction. Y erk Factory depot stood for advancement, helpfulness, and its purpose has been fulfilled in no mean manner as its two hundred years existence has proved. and though it still stands, shorn of potentialities by changed conditions and old age, its influence remains the keystone as well as the foundation of unequalled commerce development, and principles and is worthy of remembrance.

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85 CHAPTER XXI

Hunting and Side Trips

The round of our traps twice a week, or oftener if fresh tracks of foxes, etc., were discernible, afforded change and excitement, combined with ptarmigan shooting. When the swamps were hard frozen enough, and the first snow helped to cO\u the inequalities of the ground and stumps of trees, every man was keyed up to catch the first fox of the season, and imagination assisted the excitement of course with ideas of getting a sil\'cr or black fox right away. There was a charm about the whole proceedings, exciting and im·igorating to a youngster, the realization of genuine back­ woods experience. The frozen snowy trail, the companionship of the dogs, the crisp clear air, the full moon sailing through white fleecy clouds which prismatically reflected the colors of the rainbow, making all as clear as day, excepting in the thicker woods which fringed Nelson River, the emergence therefrom, the sight of the ice on the shore, the still flowing river and the figure of the animal caught in the trap, the rush of the dogs to be in at the death, and its final end by tapping the fox on the nose with the axe handle, rendering it temporarily unconscious, the quick grasp by the mitten-clad hands, the twist which caused a broken neck, the exultation of capture, the resetting of the trap and off to the next. Trapping is like a game of chess, and while the odds are in favor of the man, the fox is a crafty opponent, and sometimes wins. The finer furred foxes like the cross, silver and rare black. develop, if they have escaped the jaws of a trap, a much keener intelligence for further protection than the common red, white and blue kind. The manner they set traps upright in their springs, dig them out of their snowy beds, or strike the plates, was marvellous in their ingenuity and knowledge, and when one of these experts got busy and vindictive, trips round the traps had to be frequent to keep them in working order, and to protect the fur of a caught animal from being torn and destroyed by its cannibal relative. Free foxes invariably assail the trapped one, and the white variety seems to be the most cannibalistic of all. There was one silver we knew by his small track, who for

86 two years haunted our trap lines, did all sorts of things to show his contempt, even when traps were duplicated and triplicated. going so far as to leave his tick or nail marks on the snow covering the plate, as a defiance and notice that he was so smart he could make this visible sign of it, right over the trap with­ out setting it off. Strong scented baits like whaleskin or rotten fish were evidence to him of our crudity, and the nearest time he came to capture was when instead of using solid bait, I sprinkled the dust of pounded dry reindeer meat all over the vicinity without specializing one spot, that is the trap. I got a toe nail as the result, and a few days later he came back, dug the trap up, and set it up on end of the spring, without springing the plate. What became of him we did not know, as he was never caught by any of us at Churchill, where this episode occurred. His distinctive track and vindictive depredations made him so well known that his absence was noticeable when he disappeared. One day in an opening, the story in the snow of how the ermine attacks his prey was plainly depicted. The ermine may not be a good water swimmer, but he can dive or work his way through the snow' crust and make a passage in the more crystallized and porous snow underneath with celerity. This particular ermine had noticed some ptarmigan in the open, and knowing his presence would be detected if he made a surface approach, he dived and began making his way for an attack. To see how far the birds were away, he would have to break through the overhead crust. shove his little head up and make an observation. Not being close enough, he would disappear and continue his underground or snow course. till finally he judged that he was close enough for a spring. A leap from his hard packed snow, and its white flashing body had fastened on the neck of the surprised bird, which ascended into the air for safety. leaving the imprints of its wing tips in the snow, indicating the point of ascension. A short distance away from this, the final outcome was read, in the hole the helpless ptarmigan had made. as the ermine paralyzed its efforts to escape and it fell incapaci­ tated to become the prey of the spoiler. But just as the ermine had dominated the ptarmigan from superior instinct and method. so man deprived him of his skilfully-earned booty, and a shot scared the ermine away, leaving the body of the ptarmigan for post-mortem examination. Ptarmigan also work their way underne~th the sn<:'w at night, when they seek repose or safety. Mak mg a hole m t~e snow, one enters and tunnels a short way under the crust. This 87 tunnellina continues during the night as the varied hardness of the snow indicates. till near daybreak he is a considerable distance from the entrance. Nature has given the ptarmigan, as it gives all wild animals. this intelligent protection from attack, so if a wolf or fox scents its track. either would be disappointed on jumping at conclusions that his prey was in the hole, whereas the ptarmigan could break through the far end of his borings and have a good chance of escape on the alarm. Ptarmigan shooting is very interesting, their white plumage. so akin to the snow, again demonstrating nature's law of protection or equalization, in the preservation of its different species. The wood grouse roosting in the trees do not become white for the same protective reason. And yet there is always a distinctive spot in the armour left to assist other species to make a living without total extermination, or to serve as a warning that the enemy is near. witness the black tip on the ermine's tail. Buffalo pemmican-the last that was issued out at York Factory was in \brch-April. 1880. There never was and never will be a food like the buffalo pemmican, and but for it, as the main source of existence in exploration. the opening up of the country would have been much delayed. It almost seems puerile to describe pemmican, so familiar and important to past genera­ tions of pioneers. trippers, voyageurs and explorers. but the present city generations, to my amazement have really no conception of its meaning even as an article of food, far less its compos1t1on. Yet it was a simple indigenous concoction made by the Indians, who living on plains without material to make frequent fires for cooking, needed a keeping food, and improved on the primitive universal preservation of drying the meat in the sun. by mixing the hot rendered back and marrow fats, with choice-pounded stone or bone cross-grained cut meats, and enclosing it as pemmican in a tough hide bag. which container may be classed as among the first sterilized canning processes. The enclosed meat and fat kept for years, there being no vacuum or likelihood of the contents spoiling from moisture. Meat dried in the sun has been the principal subsistence of the Indians. and was especially applicable to the roaming tribes of the plains. whose mode of using nature's resources, showed their concur­ rence in adaptability of nature's providence. The "dried meat"-Indians of the far north used the rib or side-meat. with bones extracted, of the reindeer almost exclusively to earn this name-was preserved at the season when the animals were at their best condition, so it could be preserved.

88 The j~icy fat, during the process of drying by the sun's rays and heat, impregnated the meat proper, giving it a flavour that was inde~~ndent of_ any salt o_r other seasoning, and had lasting qualities, enabling the Indians to travel long distances with a concentrated food supply, requiring no further cooking, as a safeguard from starvation through less-favoured hunting grounds, and the disadvantages of weather and want of fuel. When the Plain Indians put up a specially prepared lot of pemmican by adding native berries, the product was classified as "Bourgeois" pemmican, suitable only to the palates and sup­ posed! y refined tastes of the "Ookimows" (chiefs) among the palefaces. When flour was procurable, the trippers disintegrated the solid pemmican in a frying pan by heat, added flour, pepper or salt, and made a dish fit for the gods called locally "Rushoo" (French "Richeau" )-Rechauffer-to heat again. Owing to the large content of fat in the pemmican, it was unrivalled in producing heat and stamina. On Christmas Day, 1924, a friend of mine presented me with a couple of pounds of genuine buffalo pemmican, the first to be tasted since the before mentioned ration fell to my lot in 1880. This last pemmican had been made-so my friend informed me-by the Edmonton Indians from buffalo meat purchased by the Hudson's Bay Company from the Dominion Government surplus herd of animals at Wainwright Park, and distributed among their posts, as a remembrance of ye olden days. As I sampled my precious gift, no force of imagination was needed to conjure up old scenes, adventures and my trip with Willie Dick. There are two avocations at which the Indian does not spare himself. and overcomes his natural propensity to loaf on every­ thing, and that is on the tracking line, navigating rivers. rapids and whirlpools, or on the trail with the dogs. They work hard and well, and come out of their usually reserved shells and chatter like Whisky Jacks, under the influence of the blazing warmth of the camp fire, till there is an astounding amount of hilarity never discernible in their attitudes at the factory. The weather was not so intensely cold on this hunting trip. as it usually is in real winter, so the camp fire was a comfortable jolly scene, with Indians laughing and feasting on tit-bits, marrow-bones, hearts and deer-tongues, they had accumulated from their compatriots and deer hunters. An_ India_n can eat his daily ration at one meal, and be compulsorily satisfied, but on trips like these on the occasion of plenty. they would eat all

89 night and still apparently have room for more. Whik the kettles would be boiling their meat, they would be "Poonasking" strips of meat and delicacies like leg bones in front of the fire. the feasting going on continuously during the evening. "Poon­ asking" is a method of cooking before a camp fire by splitting game or meat. impaling on a pointed stick, where it is quickly roasted from the intense heat. As the outside meat cooked. the Indian cut it off and ate it, so did not have to wait any great length of time to appease his appetite, unlike the snow­ filled kettles which took a longer period to cook the evening meals. There is nothing like a full stomach, with plenty of meat still in sight for future feeds to create happiness in Hudson Bay, and the dog driwrs were in great fettle, telling stories of other occasions when the Spring migration of deer, like this one was on, wbat they did. said or ate. The weather in civilization is the standby topic of conversation, when all else fails. In the Nor' West, it was grub and more grub, first and last. and no wonder. for unlimited opportunities of feasting to their capacity were rare with Indians, and to be remembered and talked of round the roaring exploding camp fire. The rabbit-skin blanket was the perfection of Indian craft work in withstanding the extreme cold of their native land. and with the snowshoe and birch-bark canoe typified the ingenuity of man, even primitin man, to overcome disadvantages caused by nature. Rabbits were snared in winter when the fur was nearly white. and thick. The cured pelts were cut into strips and knitted or netted together. spaced so that one's fingers could be extended through the interstices which acted as venti­ lators while the projecting fur prevented any snow from penetrating inside. The rabbit skin blanket was thus porous yet close. light and warm, and the best covering to keep man comfortable underneath, that was ever used in a cold country. Early to bed and early to rise is the slogan of the dog driver, and long before dawn the sleepers were awakend, fires rebuilt, tea-kettles placed thereon, moccasins taken off and the creases taken out of the duffles, smoothed and readjusted. Stockings were not used as they collected rime readily, and when hung up in front of a blazing camp fire to dry, they simply frizzled and disappeared, so that the more reliable oblong-cut duffie was artfully wrapped round one's feet without creases or lumps. after n:iuch I?ractice, the moccasin holding it in place. Duffie also bemg thicker than half a dozen pair of stockings, protected 90 the feet better from the chafing of the mooseskin lines. Stockings were therefore discarded in travelling. In addition to the duffie wrapper, made socks were avoided as any seam or sewing became the cause of blistered feet combined with the fretting or friction of the shaganappe snowshoe netting. Some Indians, especially Chippewyans round Churchill, used a sort of pull-over made from the skins of fawns, or from skins when the older deer had shed the long hairs. Fawn skins were best, having finer fur or hair, and not so thick that the hair would rub off, and cover the feet, which when sweated, did not conduce to a cleanly appearance. This native covering had several advantages. It always kept the feet warm as the fur was against the skin. When one got snowshoe blisters from duffie creases, a hairy deerskin cover­ ing next the feet would remove the pain and neutralize the disability till it became almost unnoticeable. One could walk freely without increasing the blisters and suffer little or no inconvenience. At night the blister could be relieved and hardened up or cauterized, with an axe-handle heated at the camp fire till it charred, the application or cure becoming a heroic, painful process though effectual. With an inner covering of hairy deerskin next one's feet, protection was afforded from the danger of freezing, when one broke through the ice and got moccasins and duffies soaked in water. To arrest the penetration of the water on such occasions, the custom was to immediately jump into a snowbank. and let the snow absorb the wet and freeze the exterior more quickly. If in extreme cases the freezing water did penetrate to the interior of the inside deerskin wrapper, the softness of the dry fur obviated any discomfort to the feet, though the moccasin and duffie would be solid as the wooden clog of a Dutchman. Those hairy pullovers at the end of a day's tramp did not add to the beauty of one's extremities, yet they proved their cxcclkncc for protection, and many a time they have eased and relieved my weary pained feet. After bein(J' away about a week I returned to the Factory with a number° of experiences that made this my first trip alone with the Indians a memorable one. On this trip I burnt a hole in my 3 Yz-point white Hudson Bay blanket, that I ~ould put my foot through. I still have that blanket, and such 1s the tenacity of the weave that though the hole has never been darned, the original shape of the burn is retained after forty-five wars of constant use. 91 CHAPTER XXII

Spring Hunting-A Medley of Various Experiences Breaking Up of Ice, and Fishing

The days were getting longer and preparations for hunting geese started in May. It was the custom of the clerks to trans­ port provisions, ammunition, decoys, etc., to a small cabin on the Point of Marsh, and collect a little firewood before the melting condition of the snow filled the swamps with water, and made hauling with dogs impossible. We were generally allowed a couple of weeks hunting, and could not return till the snow melted sufficiently to enable us to use terra firma or Esquimaux waterproof boots, therefore everything we needed had to be provided for beforehand. This little hut was dubbed "Clerk's Folly", by whom I know not. but was a haven during the inclement storms of Spring and Fall when the shelter from woods was unobtainable. There was a little stove for heating and primitive cooking, four bunks made from uprights with bale covering nailed to the walls and framework, making something in the nature of hammocks. proving very restful and comfortable after sitting cramped in a goose stand all day. Sitting in a goose-stand all day, if the geese are not flying is a tiresome task, but must be persevered in to obtain results. As each had his separate stand far enough apart to avoid spoiling one another's prospects, one had to depend on one's own capabilities for killing time as well as geese. The early morning and late evening flights afforded the best opportunities for shoot­ ing. During slack intervals we read, smoked, slept, ate and practiced goose calling. Just as we would stand up to stretch our limbs, a goose or white wavie call would invariably signify that we were being watched, and down we dropped. Geese are quick observers. I have been walking with a flock of geese flying towards me, or on one side, and as long as I kept walking they came on, but the moment I stopped, the movement or

92 cessation thereof was noticed immediately, the alarm sounded and course of flight diverted. The Indians say "As wise as a goose" in opp_osition to the white saying "As foolish as a goose", and the Indian proves his statement by pointing out how temperamental the goose is to weather conditions. He says the geese come north only when the snow is disappearing, when things begin to grow that they can feed on, where they can rear their young in safety of isolation, and when they are rested, strong, fat and newly clothed, and the cold weather comes, they leave for a warmer climate. Therefore the goose is a wise bird, otherwise they would all get frozen and die. See that V formation coming in the distance with Father Gander and Mother Goose heading the flight to the Far North with their younger broods, guiding them by their mysterious instinct through the pathways and trails of the skies, probably the same route they had travelled the previous year. Of course the coast line is a guide, but what about those geese which come through the interior? In fact until the snow melts and allows the birds to see and alight on the shores, or ridges adjacent thereto, the first migratory interception is prepared for farther inland, where the snow disappears earlier, rivers and lakes break up sooner, and food stuff is procurable. Geese from the south are invariably fat, though there be nothing in their intestines, and the same condition exists in the Fall. where after spending the summer in rearing their young, getting new feathers after moulting, resting from their labours and fattening on the harvest of the earth, they are so coated with fat that a fall from any height will split them open on coming in contact with the ground. Like man on a journey, they carry their provisions on their backs. Their athletic condi­ tion, without now being troubled with overeating, enables them to reach their Fall or Winter's destination with the same certainty as on their spring flight and also plump. Change of food is a great desideratum, and the treat of the first wild goose in Spring is always looked forward to. as one of the great events of the year. Bringing down on~·s. first feathered large plump beauty is therefore one of the elixirs of life. How delightedly one gloats over one's success, how one feels that now really he has become a hunter for cause. The shelter of "Clerk's Folly" becomes a palace, as we pluck and prepare our luscious meals. Fat fried goose with tasty goose grease on freshly made .flour bannocks, and appetites that can

93 always do justice to the good things supplied by Dame Nature, make us forget any supposititious troubles, and places us above kings as we suck our fingers. One day before the snow became too slushy, Chief Factor Fortescue arrived and stayed overnight. He found travelling rather arduous and his remarks, "I should be thinking of heaven rather than goose hunting at my time of life," was trite and suitable to the situation. Memory keeps locked away many little trifles of bygone days, but she does not forget. One little example comes to me as I live over this scene, and I can see Mr. Fortescue lying in the top bunk, illuminated by candle light, soliloquizing over the advance of age, and testing our intelligence with riddles. A blind beggar had a brother, and he died. Deceased had no brother. What was the relationship? After exercising my brains for a solution I gave it up, and as I into my bunk below, quoted Scripture. "Last of all the woman died also". This chance remark caused Mr. Fortescue to laugh and he gave the correct answer. Brother and sister, the blind beggar being a woman. Another one was: Jones says that he and Eliza were born of the same parents, yet he is not Eliza's brother, neither is she his sister. What is Jones? Again a hazard remark scored. "He must be a liar," and indeed he was. Trivialities showing how to keep the heart young. 'I he breaking up of the ice in the Hayes River is a sight to be remembered. Sometimes the ice clears out without much disturbance, at other times the spectacle reveals the rapidity with which an obstruction or jam causes fields to be projected into miniature mountains and icebergs, covering the banks with water, pans of ice, and making a retreat therefrom a flight for safety. Agai;1 the ice may be so rotten and candled that moderate pressure pushes the whole mass bodily, crumbling it at the same time. The Hayes River afforded the most spectacular scenes in this connection, being narrower than the Nelson or Churchill Rivers, also Hay Island opposite made an obstacle which con­ tributed to fantastic displays of ice upheavels, till the river was finally clear, and the open streams, rivers and creeks caused our thoughts to turn to fishing. Then Shilling Creek was noted for its speckled trout, and when the ice cleared out, the Rob Roy Canoes were launched having been painted and overhauled in readiness for the summer's peregrinations around the islands and creeks, in

94 c?ntinue? search of ducks, red-shanks or yellow-legs, an occa­ sional snipe or plover, wherewith to keep the larder of Bachelor's Hall replenished. My first fishing outing was with Chief Factor Fortescue and while time had increased his corpulency, he was still abl; to fit into the Rob Roy. A fine day was selected and off we started ~ft.er breakfast: paddling across the river and ascending Ten Sh11lmg Creek, till we came to the favorite spot, where a very small creek with a small waterfall, formed a foaming turbulent pool before joining the main stream. At the pool there was just enough room for us to stand and operate. Mr. Fortescue had a beautiful imported rod, with fancy tackle, and a book of fly hooks that would have delighted an ento­ mologist. I was very much afraid that I would have very little chance of catching anything against such a handicap, as my outfit consisted of a small sapling cut from the woods, a stout piece of cord, a large unadorned hook, and for bait a piece of salt pork. However, having secured our canoes, deposited our tea kettle and lunch, we began fishing, and I was the first to get a bite, and send the victim flying overhead with a strong hoist among the bushes. Who was most surprised, the trout or myself with the summary proceedings remains among the unsolved problems of education. I got three or four in this uncouth uncultured manner, and then Mr. Fortescue, who had been whipping the main stream scientifically without any success, offered to show me how to handle my pole and catch fish. Strange to relate, after the exchange, and with my first experimental cast, something gobbled the fly. Immediately Mr. Fortescue dropped :t:ny gear to again demonstrate how to play the fish, and also probably with the idea of saving his tackle, as it was quite in evidence science was necessary for the struggle. Picking up my discarded pole I began landing more trout over­ head. Mr. Fortescue finally landed his, but made no further attempt to get my pole, as the sporting spirit had received a fillip that kept him keyed up for another bite all the afternoon. We had lunch, a cup of tea and resumed our attacks. When the time came for us to head for home, I had caught nineteen, and Mr. Frotescue one, showing that the trout, thank goodness, had not yet become civilized. They wanted no gaudy attrac­ tions to stimulate their appetites. They were after the substance of a chunk of salt pork, and despised such small allurements as a colored figment of imagination in the shape of an imported fly.

95 Fish is a Yery sustaining diet, and the fish bouillon or water in which it has been boiled, has kept up the constitution of many an otherwise famished Indian, because of its fat content. Indians will starve to death eating rabbits alone, and run big risks with Ptarmigan which seldom show any sign of fat-only once have I seen fat on Ptarmigan in a long experience-but there is no doubtful result about fish, especially the unbeatable lake whitefish of which day in and day out, no one ever tired. The more one studies the different animal and bird supplies provided by nature, under different conditions of man's require­ ments throughout our north land, the greater is the wonder and admiration of the works of the Great Architect of the Universe.

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96 CHAPTER XXIII

Going Up the Nelson After Whales

In the month of June, 1880, I was assigned to the coast boat, with Cree and half-breed Indian crew, which made visitations to the whaling stands on the north side of Nelson River. This to me was in the nature of a holiday, also to observe the chief source of receiving the winter's supply of food for the dogs, from white whales shot and captured by the Indian hunters. Nelson River, at low tide, is not an inviting or interesting prospect, as at its mouth, and for some distance inside, an expanse for miles of mud flats or desolation greets the eye. On this occasion we sailed up on nearly a full flood tide, and the charm of the water, more akin to an open sea, with Flamborough Head several miles up, showing' out prominently on the north side, in the bright sunshine lifting glamour of early spring morning, the freshness of the air impregnated with scent from the inland pine trees, conjoining with the novelty of the situation and the joy of boyhood, so deeply impressed itself on me, that to this day the picture of beauty and tranquility remains a fresh and invigorating tonic, amid the turbulent sordid surroundings of city life. I have experienced the same pleasure and restful contentment in an early bright spring morning, when the light frost on the ground was vanishing under the sun's warming rays, when the trees looked misty in the light gossamer-almost vanishing­ haze, with bright blue skies overhead, and the proverbial "feeling of spring" was everywhere. "There is a pleasure in the pathless woods, There is rapture on the lonely shore, There is society, where none intrudes By the deep sea, and music in its roar, I love not man the less, but Nature more" -(Byron).

97 \Ve came at last to the north side, where the whaling stands had been built in a favourable place, where the river channel nearly approached the bank, affording deep enough water for the white whales to sport in; going up stream with the flood tide. or descending with the turn. Unlike the south side of the Nelson, the tide on the north did not go very far at this place from the shore, but still far enough for the Indian hunter to plant four posts or trees in the mud. brace the same, and erect a platform on the top. sufficiently large to hold his person in a sitting position, also his gun. kcttk of cold tea. etc. A little distance below this stand, wooden stakes were driven to catch and hold the white wb.:1le carcass when shot, otherwise if not so checked the hunter would lose his prey, the swift receding tide carrying it out of reach. This happened occasionally in spite of the guard, and carcasses often were found on the south shore during the summer by the roaming dogs from the factory, going through the swampy woods, hunting on their own account, or on an expedition of discovery. Then they had the time of their miserable I ives, eating to repletion, and getting into condition for the labours of the coming winter's never ending work. The hunter ascendl'd his aerie, before the incoming tide reached prohibitive proportions, and with stoical indifference to his precarious position, waited and watched for prospecting victims. Prospecting is the right word, as white whales are curious, will follow a boat, no doubt having their instinct aroused by the sound of its rippling motion in the water. The tide passing through the legs or shores of the stand, attracted their attention in like manner, and they would prospect the phenomena so closely, that the Indian, when they came up to "blow" or take an air observation, had the opportunity of getting in a shot with more fatal results than one would imagine from the crude layout. The Indian would luvc to sit for hours on top of his stand. wrapped general! y in his blanket, his only solace or company b~ing his ke~tle of tea, or pipe of tobacco, the tide governing ~1s sho:e gomg .movements, a canoe or boat being superfluous. 1f not mconvement under the circumstances. We secured what carcasses the hunters had, and returned to the factory with them. The white whale or porpoise measures ~nywhere up to sixteen feet in length, according to age and size.

98 A year or two previously an attempt had been made in the Hayes River to entrap th~ white whales which annually, after the breakup of the nver ice, passed beyond the factory, chiefly following the south_ shore and behind Hay Island. They may have followed capehn, or some other small fry, or it may have been that the fresh water bathing was necessary to give them relief from any sea water impurities, etc., as far as their epidermis was concerned. They came up with the tide and its turn descended. A whale net was therefore constructed, and a number of whales were barricaded and prevented from escaping. all being slaughtered. The Indians put small stones in the blow holes of the whales to torture them when still alive in shallow water, and whether from this or some other means of sound conveyance of the danger to them, those below the barrier net never came back for many years, and then only as far as the imaginary obstruction, and not above it to my recollection. A. similar result occurred sometime in the sixties at Little Whale River, on the opposite side of the Bay. Someone conceived the idea to barricade the river after the whales had gone up, following their usual custom, and preparations were made to carry this out. An immense net was constructed and anchors, chains, and ropes laid to hold it in position. The net was allowed to sink in the river, but at intervals. a line with a buoy-one gallon keg-was attached. When the whales in sufficient numbers had passed up, one day boats sallied out, lifted the net by means of the buoy lines and attached others all along, thus completely barricading the river. An immense haul was made; several hundreds, I was informed by Mr. John Spencer. who had been there, being imprisoned, harpooned and killed. But the greed that killed the goose which laid the golden eggs. also killed this method of whale fishing. as the survivors of the whale fraternity never passed the place where the barrier had been, for years. On the bosom of the Nelson River, a sea fight took place in 1697 between the Hudson's Bay Company's ships, the "Hamp­ shire", "Hudson Bay", which with the fireship the "Owner's Love", had sailed from London, and the French Squadron under D'Iberville. ''Though one of his warships was crushed in the ice in the Hudson Straits, and his remaining vessels could nowhere be seen when he reached the open waters of the Bay, yet he bravely sailed to Port Nelson, proposing to invest it m

99 his one ship the "Pelican". Arriving at his station he observed he was shut in on the rear by three English Men-of-War. His condition was desperate; he had not his full complement of men, and some of those on board were sick. His vessel had but fifty guns; the English carried among them one hundred and twenty-four. The English vessels all opened fire upon him. During a hot engagement a well aimed broadside from the Pelican sank the "Hampshire", with all her sails flying, and everything on board was lost; the "Hudson Bay" surrendered unconditionally, and the "Dering" succeeded in making her escape. After this naval duel D'Iberville' s missing vessels appeared. and the commander landing a sufficient number of men invested and took Fort Nelson."* *Bryce. This Fort Nelson was the renamed Fort Bourbon of Radisson. One could hardly imagine that stirring scenes like these were enacted so many years ago, the times having changed to more peaceful prosecution of business, the years of Hudson's Bay Company control dimming and overshadowing the bravery of their competitive enemies, till the historian resurrects their deeds, and all animosities having passed away, gives them the praise their actions merit in justice and without rancour.

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100 CHAPTER XXIV

General Review of Summer Work and Arrival of Annual Ship

With the disappearance of ice and snow, the new activity of sending the York boats to Norway House, with different Outfits began. Their return brought the furs and products of districts. which had to be opened out, examined and checked for classifi­ cation, the factory's final decision not corresponding with reports sent us, as there was a tendency on occasions to claim a higher grade appraisement than their condition or species warranted. On the whole there was no considerable difference and verification afforded a valuable insight into fur distinctions as to grades and values, amplified also by a study of preceding sales from No. 1 Lime Street, London. This duty was in the capable hands of J. K. McDonald, and I had opportunities of witnessing the unpacking, sorting, and repacking of the returns, and learning the ramifications of a fur trader. In the fur depart­ ment, under his charge, one had a repetition of the care and foresight-the experience of many years handling-employed in making up the different bales. For boat transportation and difficulties of portaging, the bales were necessarily small and numerous to suit the limited space. The ship afforded no such drawbacks, so the bales were formed in large wooden presses, with steel screws that compressed them to a state of almost waterproof resistance, aided by their parchment coverings. The summers in Hudson Bay are intensely hot, and working in high temperatures necessitated light clothing, and created a lively thirst during packing time. A large kettle with oatmeal and water was always on tap, as the combination assuaged one's desire for liquids to a greater degree than plain water. Dr. Robert Bell, of the Geological Survey arrived and was a welcome visitor, continuing his observations. begun the preceding year, eventually going to England on the "Ocean Nymph". As a remembrance I ha\'C a couple of photographs taken of the guardroom boat, when Mr. Cowie and myself

101 escorted the genial doctor to Ten Shilling Creek. The reports of the men of the Geological Survey are very valuable, ably presented, with a clarity of detail, language and information that could profitably be made more generally known, not only to the public, but in the schools. The men we met were of superior intelligence, manner and experience, became our sincere friends, and were godsends as intellectual treats and under­ standings. Like their confreres in the Government Service­ the Nor' West Mounted Police-they did their duty silently, presented their reports in a matter of fact way, which hid from the uninitiated who could not pierce the veil of formality, the personal hardships, and how they were overcome with the courage of individuality, and complete abneg4tion of the personal equation, X. the unknown quantity, is only determined after mature, thoughtful understanding, and one who knows something of untutored life, can bear testimony to their worthi­ ness as perfect types of the best manhood, a nation can well be proud of. The coming and going of the brigades were interesting events in our lives, and the short summer months had few idle moments. Rafts of firewood and logs for buildings, boats, or other purposes arrived from up the river, and piled for future use. The coast boats arrived from Severn Post, under charge of Mr. George :vlowat, with its own and Trout Lake returns, leaving, with their annual supplies after a brief glimpse of new faces, for their practical isolation of another year. The office work kept Cowie and myself quite busy. The bustle of quickly passing summer had its objective in that out­ standing event of the year, the arrival of the ship, and I was now in a position to view the coming from the landward side after becoming a fur trader. A whole year had come and gone, .:ind the longing to see the familiar faces of the "Ocean Nymph", get our valuable little home purchases, letters, books, magazines, and papers, keyed us up to an expectancy of pleasure, only second to our first landing experiences.

102 CHAPTER XXV

1881-Fall Goose Hunt and Mainly Swanson

The routine work which occupied 1879 and 1880 continued of through 1881, and the only real difference in our state existence was the breaks that left their imprint more indelibly on the mind, than those things now becoming commonplace with old age. A. 0. T. Bennett returned from Oxford House-Campbell Mary taking his place-and left on the ship which brought Miss be the Kirkby. daughter of Archdeacon W. W. Kirkby to bride of Dr. P. W. P. Mathews. After the ship sailed, with the booming of guns, preparations to were made for the doctor's wedding. I had the opportunity Henry go with a party of goose hunters under charge of Swanson, to Stony River, and as this would prove an important against experience and give more protracted enjoyment, I decided staying for the wedding, so I missed the ceremony. A coast boat carried us from the factory. The cargo was plover. composed of barrels, wherein to salt geese, ducks or and acting as containers also for salt, ammunition, provisions simple goods, like tobacco. files, etc. The regular Indian hunters usual numbering seven or eight with their families, dogs, and impedimenta, occupied any available space. The Ketchekesicks, of the Wastesecoots, Mayhams, considered the north portion country their territory and custom established them in possession. party There was another south or rather east goose hunting the towards Cape Tatnam, under George Grieve, embracing Beardts, Redheads, and Massans, so continuity was preserved and duties performed very much like the seasons themselves, as a matter of course and without alteration. For the convenience of the women and children we sailed a few round the Point of Marsh and anchored in Sam's Creek, miles below the present Dominion Government "Fort Nelson", day the assumed terminus of the Hudson Bay Railway. Next entered we sailed along the flat coast and made Stony River. We

103 at full tide, and made the boat fast to the low banks or shore, taking down the two masts. When the tide went out there was not much water under the boat, so a place had to be carefully selected that did not show too large stones on the bottom. The name Stony Creek shows the scarcity of stones all along the coast. The other creeks had mud beds chiefly, and the whole coast line to Cape Churchill. while boulder strewn through ice as carriers, was a limestone mud covered flat equal in appear­ ance to the proverbial pancake. But that same formation, with the low grass tufted sandy or small broken limestone ridges of no height was an ideal place for birds to breed and raise their young in comparative safety. Strange to say I never saw a goose egg or heard of a goose nest being found in all my northern experiences. The tide goes out for miles near the vicinity of Sam's Creek, and even at Stony River and White Bear Creek it almost dis­ appeared from view. A mile or more of swamp land covered with long grass, and an occasional willow bush, intervened between the high water mark and the scrub tamarac along the river sides ( there were no real banks) and the inland distant fringe of timber, making an ideal resort and covering for geese and ducks. In this mile breadth, the Indians constructed their geese stands, north and south, set up their decoys, or used dead geese with their heads stuck up on a forked stick, to attract their live comrades. Henry Swanson had Indian blood in his veins. The son of Captain Swanson, a well known former resident of Moose Factory, Henry had been educated in Orkney and had married there. When he came to York Factory, he left his white wife behind, and lived with a Cree woman, the call of the wild over­ coming any scruples he may have entertained. Henry and I lived in a small shack near the mouth of Stony River, where the spring and fall goose hunts always took place. It had two compartments, one as a store-room for barrels, salt, ammunition, while the other, facing the coast, afforded us a roof over our heads, with a couple of small windows for observation purposes. We slept on the bare floor. The Indian tents or wigwams were pitched by the squaws behind our cabin, and then our little community set to work to hunt for profit, and the pleasure of full stomachs. That fall, white plover were numerous, and with the Indians I had splendid shooting on incoming tides at these birds which seemed

104 to line the coast. We packed two hogsheads full of plover alone, each hogshead containing over 750 plump birds, so fat that one sufficed for a meal. demonstrating that quality is superior to quantity in allaying one's hunger. Ordinarily we could eat the greater part of a large goose-remember at all times we had no vegetables, potatoes or other accessories, save flour and a little oatmeal-without any effort, but I failed to make two plover disappear, even with our healthy outdoor created appetities, unless the fat was removed. We of necessity had to live by hunting, but probably with the exception of indiscriminate slaughter of reindeer by Indians with their lust of the chase on occasions of their migratory movements, conservation of game was generally respected, and indirectly maintained simply by the limitations of our ability to consume what we killed, and subjugating our desires, when opportunity offered such enticing, tempting abandonment of decent principles. Swanson and I did the salting of the geese and plover. We did not get many ducks to salt, as they were reserved for eating. the geese paying the Indians better in size. feathers and quills. The Indian women did the plucking, drying venison, and smoking geese. Sometimes they would beg a little molasses and salt, make a pickle. and after taking out the bones of a goose. split it like a fish and soak it in the sweetened brine. After the immersion it would be spread on wooden rods, where the wood smoke would harden. color and add to the tasty morsel. Deer hearts, marrow bones, fat haunches, tongues, briskets, roasted, boiled, baked, fried, smoked or dried made the fall goose hunt on the Stony River. one of the best expeditions of the year for varied living. We remained at Stony River till the new forming ice warned us it was time to get out. With the cold enough to preserve the birds, a number of freshly killed geese were retained to grace the Christmas table, as we had no chicken yard to fall back on and give us a change of diet. MEMO:-Swanson died at York Factory on the 3rd August. 1887, from the effects of an accident. He was engaged as carpenter to take down the middle men's house, and the wall fell on him.

105 CHAPTER XXVI

Continuation of 1881-Going to Churchill

Circumstances were taking place at Churchill which led Stuart Macrae to desire a change, so when he arrived with the winter packet, he sought an interview with Mr. Fortescue, the result being that I offered to take his place. As it was a case of Hobson's choice for Mr. Fortescue, he agreed to the exchange, and I immediately made preparations to forsake the factory and my friends, for the lure of the adventure to Marble Island and the raw flesh-eating Esquimaux. In those days Marble Island was synonym for the North Pole, the Ultima Thule of our ambitions. It was going into the unknown, and what boy would hesitate to accept or seize on the opportunity, which would place him above his fellows in experience. Mr. Fortescue was very averse to let me go, as he understood it was my father's wish and intention to have me proceed later to the newer scenes of development of the country, rather than remain on the Bay for any great length of time. However we may not be able to carry out all the schemes proposed for our course in life. My father was Inspecting Chief Factor, while I represented the humblest position. I was no doubt buoyed up with the idea that a successful development of the Esquimaux trade would afford the means for quicker promotion. Mr. Fortescue was very kind and thoughtful and gave me a fund of good advice regarding the proposed Marble Island trip. The two or three days the packeters from Churchill rested at the factory, were sufficient to give me time to select what clothes, etc., I would need for the trip, and also for a change at Churchill. The few books and mementos of a former existence were left behind, and to facilitate matters, Macrae and I exchanged trunks, or rather I gave him my old country made trunk for his country made cassette at Churchill. Our worldly possessions just about filled a small easily portable cassette, an honestly made, by old country mechanics, receptacle, dovetailed to hol? together by its own construction, and not depending on nails to any extent, outside those required for lock and

106 hinges. The transfer therefore benefitted both of us, as I could pack all my regular belongings in a bag, leaving the extras for water transport, the space on the sled being too valuable to be taken up by superfluities. The load was distributed in such a manner that several feet of the forward end of the sled were clear, negativing any propensity to dive into the snow from overweight. This space held articles like tin cooking kettles, outside the deerskin, moose­ skin or parchment wrapper. The skin from the legs of the reindeer were sewn together in some instances, and formed a hardy material to withstand encounters with trees, ice or protruberances. The wrapper was closed at the front part and conformed with the shape of the sled. The solidity of the Esquimaux sled allowed us to strap our guns, by putting them under the lashings, over our blankets, so that on the sight of birds or deer, they could be easily reached. As a carrier, the Esquimaux sled could not be improved upon, the main advantage being its great adaptability for heavy loads for long distances, in this instance Churchill would be 180 or 200 miles distant, witb the greatest amount of ease to dogs and men. The night preceding our departure the load was made up and packed on the sled, all the lashings adjusted, only blankets and guns being reserved till the morning. \Ve put on woolen underwear, blue striped strong cotton shirts. plain beaverteen trousers, whose close texture aided in keeping the wind from driving 40° below zero weather into our marrow bones. In further prevention we used plain white gartered leggings, reach­ ing halfway to the thigh. made from a very strong material called Strouds. Fresh white duffie with unadorned mooseskin moccasins-all denoting attention to service conditions-were arranged and fitted on our feet, and we turned in. in sailor's parlance "all standing" ready for an instant call to complete our toilet, with vest. capot, cap. mittens and belt. Tb~ color scheme of white, white leggings, white trousers. \\·bite capot. had its origin in imitating the protective coloring of the Ptarmi­ gan against the white snow, our dress being less noticeable for the same reason when hunting deer. An early start was always made. First and foremost, however, was th~ inevitable pannikin of tea, without which nothing could be accomplished satisfactorily. Then the completion of the toilet, with the candle dimly burning, the examination to see if anything had been omitted, that the fire

107 bag contained the important articles of flint and steel. tobacco, pipes. knife or matches. With no matches to. start a fire, no flint or steel in the firebag, we would moisten a piece of rag, torn from one's printed cotton handkerchief in emergency, rub ordinary black powder (carried in powder horn) into it, then put a Ycry small quantity of dry gunpowder in the gun, and with flint lock or percussion cap, fire the charge with care, that we could retrieve the now smouldering rag, and by blowing with our breath, we would further ignite our punk wood, or tinder, and by ascendant aids succeed in building the blazing fire so necessary to our comfort and existence. On the 30th January, 1882, warmly clad, fortified with hot tea. we stepped out of the guardroom and met the cold reception of the bitter biting blast. with the exhilaration of youth, bound for hitherto the imaginative land of the real Far North and Esquimaux. The bounding welcome of the magnificently furred and perfect specimens of the purebred Esquimaux dogs, straining at their \\' alrus hide harness, voicing their delight at the rest of the last few days, and now full of renewed vigor to hit the home trail. minimized the parting from our friends, friends who had become part of ourselves from the intimate hourly and yearly communion of happy, unadulterated, untramelled by civilized conventionalities. companionship of natural genuine development. With the last handshakes, we started at 5: 30 to the accompaniment of the crack of the whip, the jingling of the dog bells, and the "Whatche", the salutation that was always used, implying not the melancholy "Good-bye", but that the status quo of friendship was cheerfully maintained whether coming or going. Out through the back gates we sped in the darkness, made visible by the white snow and clear starry sky of an Arctic winter, on to the hard trail made by the ox wood haulers, one man ahead of the ramping curled up tailed dogs, the driver and myself following behind, with the singing of the frozen ice covered runners, penetrating our fur clad ears and capot hooded heads. By and by the exhilaration became toned down, and the pace slackened as the dogs felt the weight of the sled and realized that they had a long road ahead of them. They settled down to the s_teady ?ait a hard surface allowed, and which kept our blood circulating freely by our efforts to keep up with them. \Vbcn we reached North River beach we kept up the south side

108 for some distance and then crossed below Flamboro' Head, the ice being in good condition. We passed round the head of open water, and when we reached the north side had breakfast of ptarmigan and bad pork. The travelling was good and being inside the rough ice or hummocks caused by the upheavals or pressure, as the tides came in, the sled met little obstruction and we proceeded gaily. The high banks were left behind, and now we became more exposed to the keen north wind, as we lost their shelter, and faced the open flat snow covered country. Suitable camping places were few and far between, and we knew we had to make the caches of dogs' feed. The Esquimaux dogs are fed entirely on frozen whale meat. or the skin with blubber attached, especially reserved for long trips such as we were undergoing. It was the custom at Churchill to load the sled with dog rations, each night's feed done up in a parchment parcel, calculated on the number of nights the travellers were supposed to take, making an allowance for being caught in a blizzard. With the experience of many years in depositing the caches there was seldom any great deprivation. The depositors figured that they should always be able to pick up their cache of dogs' feed in the early part of the day. so that if they did have to haul it back a few miles, it did not matter nearly as much, as if they could not make it, and the dogs had to go supperless to bed, after a cruelly cold day's work. One bundle of blubber on the sled in this instance was worth two in the bush. The method of making the so-called cache was to cut down a tall young tree, denude it of its branches, tie the parchment bundle to the top, and then up end it, against a neighboring tree in such a manner that it could not readily be knocked down or reached. All this precaution was necessary against our greatest enemy. the Wolverine or Carcajoy, who was an adept, from his great strength of paws and body, though not a large animal, as a robber and destroyer. Many were the plans to prevent Mr. Wolverine from eating. stealing and destroying our game, fish, deer. etc., en cache. The trouble with the wolverine is that he belongs to the skunk family, and what he cannot eat he will pack away and render useless to man or animal by its effluvia. Even dogs become nauseated should they inadvertently partake of such treated meat. The attack of the wolverine on the caches of meat, there­ fore meant total destruction and had to be provided against. Wh~n disaster did befall a cache. we depended on ptarmigan

109 found in goodly numbers along the rivers, or willow banks of creeks, with which to feed our faithful hardworking dogs. This trip to Churchill was not of particular import, save that it was my first overland long snowshoe journey. In between the creeks and rivers were blank spaces locally called plains, the worst being between Owl River and Broad River, estimated as t\1:cnty-five miles, and a serious proposition to tackle on a blustering cold day. This was the most trying bit of the trail, and before leaving Owl River we wrapped up completely, and I noticed the Churchill men had extra large protruding hoods made from hairy deerskin, in addition to their ca pot hoods. Many a time afterwards I appreciated a similarly made hood, as it protected my face and nose from the stinging north wind. Freezing one's face was almost unavoid­ able, and seldom was a trip made in winter that some new cuticle was not needed. At five mile scrubs, or the edge of the plain proper, we made a kettle of boiling hot tea, and filled a stone brown flat bottle with its contents, wrapping it up in our deer­ skin robes, covering it with blankets or anything that would retain heat, for there would be no chance of making a fire, or getting a drink once we left the friendly scrubs behind. and launched out on the bare, snow waved apparently endless sea ahead of us. We stopped and had a hurried drink of tea when more than halfway across. It was lukewarm by that time, but very acceptable. When we began to see the woods at Broad River. the guide could verify his course by the appearance of the "Lobstick", which indicated where the trail could be picked up or entrance made. These Lobsticks or more properly "Lopsticks" were the tallest trees discernible from a distance, and to make useful and still more conspicuous aids, the branches were lopped off, but leaving a tuft or head, with the result that they became beacons or sign posts in the wilderness. All the way between York Factory and Churchill these Lopsticks could be seen. Some of them were made as a memorial to travellers, for instance one known as "Minister's Lobstick" was made in honor of the Ven. Archdeacon Kirkby, and probably is standing today, as no one knowingly would cut a Lobstick down. Next night we hoped to reach Churchill, so we over­ hauled our effects, and if we have not washed for seven days, :"'e can at least put on gaudy colored silk or beadwork apparel. m the shape of moccasins, mittens, leggings, garters, and in

110 extreme instances of foppishness, a beaded cap with fur eared trimmi~gs. Pa_cke.ters alw~ys carry these little extras, and may be forgiven their little vanities, because they have worked hard without recognition in combating cold, and discomforts of winter travelling, and if they want to make a fresh presentable appearance as they come out of the nowhere of the Great Lone Land. theirs is a redeeming failing not to be denied them. So behind the Hill Across, on the 6th February. our eighth day. we made our last fire. discard or pack away our service uniform. and adorn our persons for a dress parade, and the reception of half breed wives. kiddies, or awaiting inhabitants, to whom "the packet" holds out expectations of great moment, gifts from friends and relatives, and commissions filled at the big store at York Factory. Even the dogs know they are nearing home and the blubber house, and when the braided saddle cloths with their rows of bells are placed on their backs, thL'\' stand up with strongly curled tails, and as much eagerness to be off and admired, as the driver and guide. Pile on the brush, so that the smoke will ascend to high heaven and inform the watching eyes that the packet is coming. Up on the Hill Across, a hill in name courtesy only. in contrast to the flat landscape behind. I get my first winter \·iew of my future home. One could well ask "Where is Fort Churchill?'" without being ridiculed, for there is only a wide frozen river and snow covered rocks in the far distance before me. Of course I know where it ought to be, but the deep snow has wiped out any distinctive features of houses. and only the telltale smoke from an apparent snowdrift betrays its exact location. Churchill at that time was the north west limit of Hudson's Bay posts, the last token of civilization, and all the more atractive to me for that reason. because it promised scope of adventure that few were privileged or fortunate enough to obtain. Descending the hill or sloping mound, we soon reached the river. The ice was smooth and the snow on it afforded good footing, so we discarded our snowsh?es and ran wi.th ~he exhilaration of perfect health. the clear air, the sound of tinkling bells, the ringing swish of the sled runners. the whistling crack of the whip, the barking of the now excited dogs, adding to intoxication of the hour of our arrival at our journey's end. We knew we were seen as black dots of humanity appeared on the ice to meet us. Offers were made to relieve us of our dogs

111 and sleds, but no, we wanted the full credit of appearances coming to us, and disdained their assistance. In a wild tumult we headed the racing barking dogs through the aperture between the stockades which once boasted a gate, and became the admired of all the admirers, in our supreme moment of triumphal entry into Fort Churchill.

112 CHAPTER XXVII

At Churchill

all Mr. John Spencer was very glad to see me, and not at for surprised when I informed him that Mr. Macrae had asked house, a change. I was installed in the little one-roomed I formerly occupied by Mr. Macrae. It was also the office. being soon became acquainted with inhabitants, the patriarch 20th Sam Grey. Sam was now a pensioner, old and deaf, born at his December, 1802, but still wiry and capable of swearing he numerous offspring, especially the younger generation whom deemed incapable of ever learning the lessons of his experience. were All told with George McPherson and his off spring there on and about forty souls inside the ruined stockades, depending a forming the Company's establishment. Mr. McPherson, he Shetlander, white when he washed, which was only when outside could not avoid it, was Sam's son-in-law. These two, All Mr. Spencer and myself, constituted the white population and other were mixtures of Cree, French, Orkney, Scotch, because of old Sam, English. They talked an elementary inter­ language called English, with Orkney and Scotch words larded, but the vocabulary was limited to local nomenclature of their visible and ordinary surroundings. They were linguists, and could converse with Crees, Chippewyans and Esquimaux as polyglot persons. The Fort people could talk about whales, foxes, Esquimaux. daily firewood, hunting, fishing, or anything pertaining to their enjoy­ life, could gossip and squabble among themselves to their mine, ment and content, but their little world had not become mental and one hungered for an educated voice. Here was in the stagnation. Mr. Spencer had been born and raised country, was a good carpenter and trader, was genial in manner, of friendly enough, but useless at meal times, in the course the business, and a game of chess occasionally: there was not sociability that Bachelor's Hall provided. His family occupied place, most of his attention, and from long association of the he had just subsided in its routine, and accepted the conditions

113 without worry. He had become "One of Them" because he was satisfied to vegetate under pleasant enough material existence, unused to any other, a sort of happy family under patriarchal auspices and traditions. I am drawing these characters and atmosphere because they had such a bearing on my viewpoint of life during the next two or three vcars. and because I could not avail myself of their assistance, in the mind battles that followed, and which I had to fight out alone to reach an intellectual and intelligent solution, An oid charc1cter, Gibeault, was really the most entertaining of the lot. and could tell many stories of Governors Wm. Mactavish, Hargrave, W. J. Christie, Skipper Hackland, and other celebrities. and made specially interesting the fighting battles of the men's house at York Factory, when in the old days. the law of :fisticuffs prevailed and a general settlement of all troubles of the year was reached at its end, when the generous allowance of grog added to the warlike spirit. Old Gibeault called the old time Chief Factors in charge. Governors. There used to be four so styled. One in charge of the Montreal Department at Montreal, one for the Western Department at Victoria. one for the Southern Department at Moose Factory. and the fourth, the Northern Department, with headqmrters at York Factory. Sir George Simpson was called Governor in Chief. In late years with the changes of adminis­ tration, the title of Governor for Departments fell into desuetude, The men's house, or married quarters was a one storied wood building, how old it is impossible to say, but while the exterior looked fair enough with its winter porch protected doors, the inside was somewhat of a maze, and more like a rabbit warren is supposed to be, both in the excess of occupants, and the turnings and tortuous twists one had to undergo in passing from one end to the other. If the building had possessed any large rooms at its inception. it now had been partitioned so often to suit the exigencies of different families, that cubby holes might more properly describe the present habitations. These were packed with the population aforesaid with the exception of a small cabin occupied by Adam Collin and his family. The interior. even in daylight was dark, the windows being on a small scale. As all cooking and lighting had been going on for generations the walls were black and ingrained as wood smoke, and whale oil open tin spout lamps with cotton ball wicking-''cruises'' they were called in Orkney-could make them. The floors

114 were hacked by axes when splitting wood. The beds, most if no_r all built in, ~ith attempts at curtains, formed the only privacy. The furmture was crude, and minimized for want of space. ?verything so primitive that there is hardly anything to describe. Yet in that crowded dark pen there was much genuine happiness, because the occupants were freed from all responsi­ bility excepting in raising large families, and these came naturally from out door exercise, the pure air and simple living. I have known a woman have a child and participate in a dance the same day, just as the Chippewyan women could attend to themselves in a midday camp, and with newly born babe in moss bag, catch up on the trail, with the men or rest of the party, the same evening on snowshoes. The chief occupation of the men was hunting, fishing and getting firewood, trapping in conjunction with those winter duties. The whole imported meat provisions amounted to 1200 pounds. salt pork, one tierce of salt beef. a little bacon ( 100 pounds) , and a case of one dozen corned beef. and was in the nature of. and meant for a reserve. The surrounding country had to be relied on to provide food for all inhabitants. Vegetables were too much of a luxury, but owing to the direct ship service, we had a more liberal supply of flour, oatmeal and biscuits. than fell to the lot of interior posts, so that we did not feel badly off, if we had flour cakes-dampers in Australia, along with our meat or gravy. Mr. Spencer had created a little patch in front of his house during the years he had been there, by packing some earth he got at a distance, and in this apology for a garden, a little mustard and cress was raised, also a small quantity of turnip seed furnished turnip tops, which proved a godsend to himself and family in the way of greens. The turnips. in size, were capable of identification and that was about all. A small amount of Edwards' dessicated potatoes was reserved chiefly, if not altogether, for the officers. or ~r .. Spencer's mess. A couple of cows might lead one to the opmto~ that a good supply of milk and butter could be had, but gettm~ hay was a gambling proposition at best, and often the long wmter would find them trying to subsist on tripe de. roche: or moss from the rocks, rendering their product just a httle different f~om water by an indefinite white colouring. In the su~me~ t11:1e, when grazing was at its best in the marsh, or the mtricac1es of the

115 rocks, the mosquitoes, sand :flies and "bulldogs" made their lives miserable. With this description of the luxurious side of our provender, it can be readily understood that the country far and wide would have to be harried and scoured to keep the establishment going in food. The limit of trees was about forty miles north of Churchill, receding into the interior, and then the barren grounds commenced. For nearly two hundred years Fort Churchill has been drawing on the sparsely timbered country, and the difficulty of keeping the home :fires burning was no easy task. All the time I was at Churchill, we never had a superfluity of :firewood, just depended day by day on the dogteams, with perhaps a few day's margin, which a prolonged blizzard would reduce to nil. The men and dogs would then have to battle to or from a five­ mile wood cutting station, and get enough scrub tamarac to keep us from freezing. I have had this experience on several occasions, and had it not been that the snow was banked around the houses to the very eaves, forming an Esquimaux igloo in fact, with window spaces only cleared, and the animal heat, especially of so many people in the men's house, and our good Hudson Bay blankets or deerskin robes, we would have suffered much more. Fires were taboo at one time at Churchill in the men's houses and probably officers' quarters as well during winter months. The officer made his rounds about ten o'clock at night, saw all the fires out as a precaution against conflagration, and the dangers of :finding themselves isolated two hundred miles from any help with temperature 40 degrees or more below zero. Following this genuine safety :first procedure, and example of co-ordinated discipline, even if one had to go to bed early and seek warmth under the blankets, the annals of the Hudson's Bay Company have been free, as far as I know, from any disastrous :fire or destruction of their establishments from :fire. The Powder Magazine and Trading Room had their respective roofs completely covered with sheet lead. These two vital buildings were so protected, not from any fear of fire starting inside, as no smoking or heating apparatus of any kind ":'as al_lowed under any circumstances at any time, but against hghtnmg. Heavy thunderstorms and lightning are experienced at C~urchill, and along the Bay, to terrifying intensities, hence nothing was overlooked to protect the inhabitants of these

116 isolated posts, that humane and human intelligence could give attention to. The newness of my surroundings, contact with prim1t1ve characters, paucity of clerical work, save in life saving letter writing, a little ptarmigan shooting, with occasional trips with Mr. Spencer round his traps at Cockles Point-I did not receive much encouragement to start trapping that winter as little prejudices predominated-managed to make the time pass fairly pleasantly for a couple of months, till I felt the longing for a sight of my old comrades at York. When we had made all ready for the spring packet and having discussed the new Marble Island prospects with Mr. Spencer, it was decided that I could better personally explain to Chief Factor Fortescue what our resources and expectations were, by going with the packeters. On Thursday the 6th April, 1882, with Gibeault, Sam Grey, Junior, and Henry Stagg, a York Indian, we started for the factory, making the trip in five days, the dogs travelling well.

117 CHAPTER XXVIII

Mainly Personal Conclusions and Esquimaux

The details of routine work, visits to Goose Lake, twenty miles to the southwest in May to meet and hunt the migratory goose, the arrival of Esquimaux at different times in small parties, who came for the seal hunt and camped below old Fort Prince of Wales at Esquimaux Point, the trading and packing of furs, the despatch of the "packet" for York Factory in June, the breaking up of the river in the same month will be unfolded later. To tell the truth. the monotony of my own existence prevented me from developing much interest in outside affairs. which Mr. Spencer ably managed himself, and my work was confined to keeping the accounts, and introducing a little more system than had heretofore been adopted. Mr. Macrae had not bothered his head much about anything, and Mr. Spencer who had been in charge for many years, was not particularly anxious he should interfere. so there was not much encouragement to take a more active part to assist the management, for fear of misconduct motives. I kept to my little room during the first year or two, probably more than I should have done, if a broader minded interpretation had been accorded me in my duties. consequenth· I made little or no effort to devote my attention to outside affairs, feeling an atmosphere of non­ appreciation. which found too readily, from my youthful position, a reticent acquiesence to avoid anything like an idea of usurpation or intrusion where I was not wanted. So I stuck to my quarters and did not participate much in the goings on of my surroundings. Therefore I took little notice, beyond the preparation of closing the year's accounts on the 31st May, and the contemplated departure of the expedition to Marble Island in July, and existed. The great n·ent occupying all minds was the Marble Island trip. Distance in those days had not been annihilated by radio, so even thirty or forty miles into the barren grounds meant a disappearance as if into perpetual night. I was too young to

118 get all the information about the different attempts in the past tabulated from traditional stories, but going to Marble Island had the same importance to the Churchill inhabitants as going to the North Pole. Sundry attempts had been made from Samuel Hearne' s time, to establish communication with the Esquimaux at Marble Island, or in the vicinity of Chesterfield Inlet, other than their coming to the fort, but none had really succeeded, the desolation being uninviting, and the vital question of fuel, for sustenance and warmth in that cold climate could not be met or overcome. Of course the Exquimaux existed, but even the most ignorant native son at the fort felt the Huskie was of an animal tribe-all the same as an Esquimaux dog-very inferior to and beneath him. The great authority seemed to be an Esquimaux named William Ouligbuck, locally called "Buck", who was reputed to know all about that lone land, but whose present whereabouts was a matter of conjecture as he had not been at the fort for five years. Buck had accompanied Dr. Rae on his two expeditions to Repulse Bay, Boothia Felix. William Gibeault used to relate how he and another fellow had been sent in the dead of winter to try and locate Buck, in the Barren Grounds, as he was wanted as interpreter for Dr. Rae, and how they had to pack wood and willows on their sleds so as to melt water to drink. They did not find him personally, but meeting some other Esquimaux, they left word that Buck was wanted by the white men, and as Buck was with Dr. Rae, later, no doubt the message reached him all right. Mr. Spencer had tried to get into touch with the nomadic Buck so that his services could be engaged for the new venture, but Buck had not been heard of decisively for years and was supposed to be somewhere near Repulse Bay, the end of Creation in the eyes of the Churchillites. When I left I was told to find and bring him back, and felt like an H. M. Stanley in search of Livingstone, so necessary did his presence and knowledge of Esquimaux life appear to be to the Company's interests. In 1866-7 the "Ocean Nymph" had wintered at Marble Island in an endeavour to compete with United States whalers from New Bedford. Massachusetts, who were making now a practice of wintering there. The result could not have ~een very satisfactory as no attempt was made, as far as I k~ow, till 1882, when it was decided to build a smaller vessel, which could work its way along the shore, following the bays and indentations,

119 avoiding the ice, and getting into direct touch with scattered groups of Esquimaux. So a ten-ton open fore-and-aft clinker boat was built, with a six foot cabin. Mr. Spencer had secured the services of four Esquimaux, and he could not have picked four more competent men, as they knew a good part of the coast, and were qualified from their Kayak experiences along it, to act as pilots, seamen and hunters. These four men, Ack-pa, Achin-ak, Puck-coo and Pow-wowah, became loved by me, and I have an affection, increasing after years of past recollections into intense admira­ tion of their genuine good qualities, services and friendship. They knew no English, and were like the Chippewyans, as primitive and lousy as when the first Hudson's Bay people or white explorers saw them. This is not to the discredit of the Company, but the reverse. So I came in contact with people, primitive as the inhabitants of Terra del Fu ego, or the blacks of Australia were in their original surroundings, but of a mentality and character which elevated them high among men, yea socalled civilized men, because they possessed the supreme virtue of generosity, and while impossible to drive, when left to their own devices-to follow their own habits-they gave freely to those who needed their assistance, even to the extent of going without anything themselves. I came to know and understand these good people, who had so little yet were the happiest race of the many tribes of aboriginals I have associated with, and there was less of what we designate as evil among them. Natural children tempered to an oblivion of selfishness. Men, women, children and dogs, lived and fared together, and with few exceptions­ and these more of a ludicrous simplicity of act-developed kindness as a result. They were thieves, with their takings done as a child in laying hold of some object by which it is attracted, with the inocuous sense of innocence, though there was a desire in the adults for acquiring something useful, out of what they sub-consciously considered as your superfluities. The felonious intent was lacking, thus eliminating the element which we designate as crime. Walter N. Koelz, Ph.D., naturalist with Captain McMillan in the Arctic, writing in the National Geographic Magazine. epitomized the Esquimaux of Greenland thus: "The life of man in this Polar land is hard and strenuous. The animals on which he depends for food, travel far and are often beyond his

120 reach. In darkness he spends the dreary winter, and only for a few short months does summer vary the scene of ice and snow. Nature seldom bestows less upon man on earth, yet nowhere has she more honest. more unselfish children." The great difference between Indian tribes of Canada and the Esquimaux appears in the sense and experience of gratitude. A people like the Esquimaux, who are generous, give freely of their services or poor sustenance to others without expectation of any reward or return, must rise in the good opinion of the like­ minded. It is strange that among the different tribes of Indians I have associated with, from the Hudson Bay to the Pacific. there is no word in Indian language describing, or similar to our understanding, of gratitude. Hence the Indian character suffers in comparison, because he does not appreciate benefits. or practice actions of spontaneous liberality in the same manner as the Esquimaux.

---o,---

121 CHAPTER XXIX

Marble Island Venture - More Esquimaux

When I had overcome, three or four years after, the feeling of loneliness and general inactivity of mind, by a better under­ standing of my surroundings and adapting myself to circum­ stances imbibing companionship and friendship from books, I read Dumas' "Three Musketeers" and while it may seem ludicrous to compare my four poor illiterate Esquimaux in their oily reindeer and sealskin garments, with the dashing and resourceful quartette, Athos. Aramis, Porthos, and D' Artnagan. in uniform, hats and swords. yet to my impression;ible mind, they exhibited similar traits of character, physical and mental. which has endowed them with the glamour one attaches to all adventurous and worth\· spirits. MEMO: In 1670 M. Colbert was the energetic Prime Minister of France, and was especially interested in Radisson's doings in Hudson Bay. Ackpa was not the oldest of the four, but his demeanour was of the Grand Seigneur type, a born gentleman, grave and dignified, who seldom smiles, had no superfluous talk, but was always consulted and willing to give instruction in situations requiring the decision of a judicious experienced noble mind. His very action denoted a reticence and superiority, something uncanny in a simple Esquimaux, impressing not only his own tribe, but everyone who came in contact with him. He was made to be respected, and he respected everybody. His features. along with Achinak, were not so Mongolian as his compatriots, neither had he the squatness with which we ascribe to Esquimaux in general. In fact Ack-pJ. Pow-ow-ah, and Achinak were athletic young men in their prime, quick on their feet from the practice of jumping from ice floe to ice floe, hunting walrus or Polar bear. Whenever Ackpa arrived at an Esquimaux camp. he always seemed to receive the most regard and deference. If Ack-pa was also a conjurer, or what the Indians call "medicine man", he did not advertise the fact, but assumed the position of

122 knowledge. just as he did the place of authority, without hesi­ tation and as his undisputed right. Aramis has his counterpart in Pow-ow-ah. Pow-ow-ah that winter of 18 81-2 had been made a conjurer, following in the footsteps of his father Allili-Kawhack, and no neophyte ever felt his honors and responsibility more than he did. The nearest I ever came to a row with the Esquimaux was in trying to purchase Pow-ow-ah's conjuring belt while on the trip. I did not attach much importance to the strip of walrus hide which acted as a belt and emblem of the office of conjurer, but Pow-ow-ah did, as he had all the religious fervour of a first communicant. or a devotee taking the veil. I had no idea he was getting mad till he informed my interpreter, George Oman. that he would rather die than sell or be separated from it. So I purchased a belt, not the value of ten cents to a white man, not even as a curiosity, as one could be easily made from a strip of walrus hide, excepting that it was made by an Esqui­ maux, from old Allilikawhack, who disposed of it without any scruples, and seemed indifferent to an r penalties his gods ( if he had any) would impose on him. Old Allilikawhack had two belts. The conjurers belt is the symbol of having been initiated into the art of a conjurer. From the little I could gather of the rites, a preparatory fast of thirty days was necessary. Prob­ ably at the end of that time of starvation, the mind was in a receptive mood to dream dreams. see visions penetrating into the shades of the mysteries of Nature, from which knowledge. superior to the ordinary well fed individual is derived. much as in the custom of our own lives by fasting and pranr in extreme cases. The Esquimaux possess a drum, their only musical instru­ ment, being a parchment attached to a round hoop with a wooden handle. With a piece of wood as a drumstick. to smite the edge of the circle, much noise can be obtained, and with their Hi-hi-Hi-hi accompaniments, the drum features in the ceremony. The conjurers act as intermediaries with the spirits. and are supposed to possess powers to perform remedies for evils which are the lot of our common humanity . .:ind the use thereof unknown to the uninitiated. Well Pow-owah had his spiritual moods and yet remained very much an Esquimaux but he had this to his credit over Aramis, that he never made a tool and \'ictim of Puckoo. who was the giant Porthos of the part\'. It is strange how types

123 are met in reality. whose ongm probably were imaginary and fictitious. Puckoo was over six feet, an exceptional height for an Esquimaux, was portly as any old time squire who loved good eating and drinking. His furred reindeer coats and loose wide knee breeches, like a divided skirt, of the same furry material increased his goodly proportions to the status of a real giant among men. If ever a child's spirit lived in a gigantic body, Puckoo exemplified it. He had the soul of a child and the heart of a nation. Simple and genial, any little recognition would cause a broad smile to spread over his fat round counten­ ance to the exclusion of his eyesight. His strength was above the ordinary, and the Esquimaux were powerful as a rule, especially in the use of their arms. The only game I saw them play near the old fort was at sealing time in the nature of a swing. From a top cross bar of raw walrus hide, and fastened on two poles set deep in the ground, braced with sticks and stones, were two stout thongs with loops, through which the hands could be inserted, and a grasp made on the single strand above. The athletes could swing themselves by their wrists and holds, till their momentum carried their bodies round in a circle. Paddling their Kayaks, throwing spears with the aid of a rest and a retaining ivory inset for the stem, through which rest holes provided a firmer grasp and purchase for the thumb and fore­ finger; holding on to their walrus hide lines in combat with seals. walrus or white whales, all tended to make the arms the strongest parts of their bodies. Now we come to Achinak, the D' Artnagan of the Three Musketeers. He was lithe and quick as a steel trap. His eyes saw everything, even in the dark, and before the voyage ended I had christened him "Smart Eyes". He did not look initiative, and while others were thinking what they should do, Achinak was at work, in stress of storm ice or danger. He attached himself to me as a guardian, and I found out afterwards that Mr. Spencer had promised him a little reward in the shape of tobacco, and a few little useful articles to look after me, and he could not have made a better selection. While the small gratuity might have been an incentive, I am pleased to think his careful attention was the outcome of personal liking, and after seven years intimate intercourse with these four men, I appreciated their generous and spontaneous efforts on all occasions to do their best and aid me, and shall ever remember them with the gratitude they deserve. Their good qualities, as genuine men

124 of honour and fidelity could not be kept hidden under the strength of evil smelling and oil saturated animal clad garments, any more than radium could be made destructible or indiscern­ ible through dirt. So Ackpa, Achinak, Puckoo and Pow-ow-at, with their confreres, are abiding companions of real substance, and if I have moralized unduly, the reason arises out of their fine qualities as men of God's-not an academic-world, and whose names deserve to be chronicled for their worthiness. "There is a destiny that makes us brothers, None goes his way alone. All that we send into the lives of others Comes back into our own. I care not what his temple or his creeds, One thing holds firm and fast That into his fateful heap of days and deeds The soul of man is cast." -Edwin Markham. What a wonderful gift the man possesses who can put the epitome of existence in eight lines of exquisite and profound expression.

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125 CHAPTER XXX

To Marble Island

The ice broke up and cleared out of the Churchill River by the middle of June, 1882. The new boat, especially built for this trip, came from the factory in the early part of July with a Cree Indian crew, and was duly christened by me "The Laperouse". Active preparations had been made for her arrival, the principal one being in obtaining a fuel supply from drift­ wood, etc., which was split and cut up in suitable lengths, to fit the oblong sheet-iron box-about eighteen inches wide, and twenty-four inches long, with a depth say of twenty-four inches, a layer of sand and gravel inside, to protect and prevent it from setting fire to the woodwork on which it might rest inadvert­ ently, should it escape the ballast stones, and make undesirable contact. A few holes punched above the sand level provided the air bellows or draft. The culinary adjuncts or utensils for this "fire box", consisted of a large tin kettle for boiling meat or game, a small tin kettle for the luxurious pannikin of tea. and a frying pan for bread making, etc. As we could not expect to obtain any wood for cooking after leaving the vicinity of Churchill, the Barren Grounds commencing at the timber grow­ ing limit forty miles to the Nor' West thereof, the question of an adequate supply was vital to avoid the alternative of having to imitate the Esquimaux and eat our food raw. The shores had therefore been scoured for driftwood weeks previously, till the cargo had the appearance of being mainly firewood. The goods for trade were packed in handy packages, special attention given to the storage of gunpowder, and protection from rain or salt water provided in the shape of two large York Factory linseed ! raw) oiled made tarpaulins. Our own supplies did not take up much room for such an indefinite and unknown hazardous trip. Here is the total amount of provisions which could be spared from scanty reserves at Churchill as I find it among the memoranda of that trip.

126 6 8 17 pounds Second Biscuit ______I 42 Common ------14 /3 119 Flour (in cask)______l/ 7 81 Salt Pork ______2/ 1 5 Tea ------______5 / 8 35 Brown Sugar ______15 / 6 13 Yz " Reindeer Grease ______9 147 Venison ______------1 / 4 / 6 459 Yz " 5 4 Salt Geese ( 4) ______18 8/ 1/7 (Or about $40.00) was For the four Esquimaux a special and initial treat man's living provided, introducing them to the luxury of white in the shape and substance of: pounds Common Biscuit ______8 / 6 25 2/3 2 " Congou Tea ______4 9 Brown Sugar ______14/9 (Or $3.75) in those There were three grades of biscuit or "hard tack" cabin biscuit. good old days of strong teeth, viz: first and second for cabin or as denoting the finer qualities of fl.our required the coarser cultured palates, and the common, which retained herd. Alas'. but more nutritive ingredients, for the common to break genuine "hard tack" which required a sledge hammer of its it. has passed away like our teeth, and only the memory real sweetness, and its usefulness remain. we Those were all the provisions, food supply or luxuries with no had to attack an unknown country, distant people, go, though definite instructions as to how we would have to we would Marble Island. technically, was the objective, or when could get return. It might be weeks or months, before we rocks back; ice might delay us or cause fatal damage, uncharted to give us a might rip the bottom out of the "Laperouse", so we had sporting chance we had a little sixten foot boat, which their to tow behind, as the impedimenta of the Esquimaux, the thwarts wives, babies. dogs and Kayaks, piled to and above precluded our taking it on board at the start. 127 A very heterogeneous cargo, crammed into every available space, while the nomads lay on top of the tarpaulins, high above the bulwarks. No such thing as privacy in that open boat. We were all in it, that is all. The smell of seal meat and blubber rose to high heaven and we thanked the Lord when the wind was behind us and carried the reek of mixtures over the bow and from us. That the trip was not considered a mere holiday was shown in the fact that the three men mentioned received three pounds as a gratuity or bonus over and above the regular wages, while the Esquimaux were paid as trippers, the first time probably they had received remuneration for such harnessed work. But the officer in charge did not receive one penny, as the honor and glory of being privileged to lead such an expedition was deemed sufficient recompense to an officer and gentleman of the Company. And herein was the distinction which made itself felt in contemplating our respective positions of Master and Man in the Service. We had to be superior to the lure of filthy lucre and recognize that with its disregard from a purely mercenary standpoint, we cleansed our souls from the dross of being commonplace, and could command the attention of those not subjected to the discipline of self control in a manner hardly understood today. With a salary of thirty pounds a year, a three pound bonus looked large, and while the lesson was hard to learn, especially to a youth of verdant eighteen, the with­ holding thereof seemed too drastic on this occasion. That idea of the distinction of being an officer and a gentleman was used to serve other ends, when commissioners who had not been brought up in the service were appointed from outside com­ mercial stations, because of their supposed modern city business and national commercial knowledge, their ability to cope with improved transportation development, and subsequent changing conditions of trade and commerce. Precedent became their fetish and they thought they could hide their lack of real fur trader's knowledge with a civilized claptrap, that in days of pioneering and upbuilding possessed merit and meaning. Early on Sunday the 16th July, 1882, bidding goodbye to :\lr. Spencer and the Churchillites we hoisted the jib, fore and mainsails of the "Laperouse". We fired a salute as we started down the river from our sole armament, an old mortar which I had arranged for, from the stores at York Factory. In 1846 a wing of the 6th Regiment of Infantry, a detachment of Royal Engineers, and a detachment of artillery under command of

128 Colonel Crofton were sent to Red River via York Factory. Entire party, eighteen officers and three hundred and twenty­ nine men. The mortars, portfires, bags of black gunpowder and miscellaneous artillery adjuncts were in the Powder House at Yark Factory when I obtained the mortar as a signal gun. This old mortar, with the cannon on the banks of the Hayes River, were relics of olden times, when attempts were made to send troops and war supplies to the interior or Red River. and had been abandoned at York Factory, as probably too cumber­ some for canoe, portage or river transportation. We did not intend using it for warlike purposes, having no ball, but as a means of attracting attention, as the black coarse gunpowder in bags, when well wadded home with rags, grass, etc., and fired by aid of a portfire, made a glorious blasting boom which reverberated among the rocks and promontories, bringing anyone in view through terrifying curiosity to ascertain the cause of the alarm. It rendered us good service in astonishing the natives, when we saluted to celebrate our coming or going, and proved valuable equipment in commanding respect, from the noise it made, so out of proportion to its dumpy size. Our little 10-ton open schooner was manned as follows: myself captain, at eighteen, in full charge of body and soul­ (1 carried my only literature. a Bible and Anglican Prayer Book), James Wastesecoot, (Cree Indian) mate; "Spanish" (Cree Indian) cook and general seaman; George Oman, nati\'c Churchillite, interpreter (Chippewyan, Cree and Esquimaux) ; Ackpa, Achinak, Puckoo and Powowah (Esquimaux able sea­ men, pilots, hunters, fishermen and life preservers, should we get str;nded in the Barren Grounds of their uninviting unknown country. The day was beautiful. and the sailor's selection of Sunday as a date of sailing and good omen for a successful \'oyage, was carried out. We picked up the Kayaks and balance of living freight at Esquimaux Point, below Fort Prince of Wales, but before that occurred I made the more intimate acquaintance with the Esquimaux method of breakfast off raw fish. During the early part of the summer a fish called locally salmon, but more of a salmon-trout nature, enters the Churchill River, and is caught in stake nets, set at extreme low ~at.er mark on the beaches near its mouth. It does not go up this nver to spawn. at least I do not remember being made conversant with any such movement upstream. The salmon may be caught a few miles

129 towards Cape Churchill. All the way north of Churchill the Esquimaux could take their Kayaks from the Laperouse, paddle inshore, cast their little bits of stake nets, weighing a pound or two of Holland twine. now buoyed with bits of wood, and weighted with stones or bits of iron or metal, for the purpose of floating or drifting. In a few minutes they would be seen taking the fish out of the net, and when they had enough would catch up with us, though the boat was sailing freely, and distribute the haul. A. P. Low, in "The Cruise of the Neptune" states this experience in Baffin's Island. "Finding that Arctic Salmon were plentiful at the mouth of the little river, about a mile from the ships, a small net was borrowed, and two boats were sent away to secure J supply of fresh fish. They returned loaded in an hour, having made but four casts of the net, in which over a thousand splendid fish were taken, varying in weight from three to ten pounds, and aggregating at least five thousand pounds." This ,\·ould seem to indicate a greater congestion of schooling of salmon than I observed around the Churchill River, and we never caught any great number at any time to lead us to think they were really plentiful. The examination of the northern part of Hudson Bay by the Dominion Government with the object of developing fisheries, if any, would be commendable, if bona fide fishermen were employed and paid. J. B. Tyrell has this to say in 1897: "It is probable that some of the true salmon ascend the inlets and streams west of the northern part of Hudson Bay, but the fact w.1s not definitely settled." Herc is the day's record written at the time: "Left Esquim.1ux Point at 10 a.m. with a fair wind, boat's course N. by E., which w.1s afterwards changed to N.N.E.-5 p.m., becalmed with a thick fog round us. Depth of water 7 fathoms. 9 p.m., fog lifted for a few seconds, and we saw land and ice, but as yet the Esquimaux did not know where we were, so we set sail after lying at anchor for four hours and made for the shore. Before we got there a dense fog came in again, and we were once or twice pretty close to pieces of ice before we saw them. Saw rocks dead ahead after several hours sailing, so put about. and ran out a little till we got 3 fathoms, and then dropped anchor for the night. My Huckies (Esquimaux) fired five shots as they thought we were past Seal River, and in an hour's time we saw two Kayaks coming through the fog. How

130 they found us they know best themselves. The local name Hu~kies for Esquima_u~ was derived from the call they made to their dogs when dnvmg, etc., "Huck, huch", the transition therefore to Huckies was an easy one. The next day was full of experiences. We could not start for a head wind, so the Esquimaux, Wastesecoot and Spanish, went ashore near Seal River to hunt ducks. There are all sorts of little ponds or miniature lakes left by the receding tide. In one of those lay the Laperouse, smugly a prisoner with mud all round. About three o'clock in the afternoon "Amoo-e-luck or the "Little Huckie", bound for Churchill came on board. Wastesecoot and Spanish having killed about a dozen mallard ducks. arrived with our Esquimaux crew, and the situation of my first experience, alone in command, with my blubbery friends. was saved. As all these Esquimaux were en route to Churchill to hunt white whales, and trade the oil and skins, we did not attempt to lessen our small stock of trade goods by opening our cases, or country made boxes. We smoked the pipe of peace together and got a few fresh salmon from them, and then they departed. I sent a note to Mr. Spencer with them. Not until 8 p.m. were we able to leave Seal River, shaping a N.E. course to get clear of a small island which we named "McTavish" Island. 18th, Tuesday. Left at 7 o'clock a.m. and kept on N.E. course all day. 19th, Wednesday. Kept on all night with a splendid S.W. wind, boat under goose winds. Pow-ow-ah at the helm all night. At 10:30 a.m. ran straight out from "Spence's Point" and anchored in 2 fathoms. This point runs out a long way from shore, under water. My Huckies and Wastesecoot went on shore for fresh water to a small creek on the south side of Spence's Point. "Smart Eyes" remained on board. When they returned in the "captain's gig" the 16 foot boat provided at Churchill for emergencies, we set sail and continued our voyage, the course being E. by N. and E.N.E. 20th, Thursday. About 8 a.m. were becalmed and remained stationary for two hours, when we again got a fair wind. At three o'clock we ran to the N. side of a small island and anchored out of sight of the mainland. All hands .then went on sho~e for an egg hunt. The birds called sea pigeons w~re tame. m their wildness not having come in contact seemingly with people before, 'and we moved among them, gathering their eggs without creating any great disturbance. We returned to the Laperouse and set sail. Counting the

131 eggs we made the total 3 17 and as they were fresh, they made a most welcome and luxurious addition to our fort supplies. ME~IO: When we invaded the same island the next year, our approach was noticed by the birds, who came screaming round the boat, recognizing the freebooters who had raided them the previous season in their innocence of evil. They knew our fell purpose, and each year thereafter we got the same angry reception. Continued sailing till 7 p.m. with a fresh side wind from west, till we anchored within a stone's throw of the shore, in a bight with 9 fathoms water. Here we pitched seven tents, but I only stayed long enough to get a fresh water supply for our barrel by our Esquimaux crew, continuing our voyage to Powowah's father's encampment, a little way to the north of this band. We were seldom in sight of land all day, having kept a long distance from shore. While our objective was trading furs, walrus ivory, Esquimaux boots, etc., we did not attempt on our northward career, being anxious to get as far north as possible, obtaining full information and making the most of our limited time and seasonal opportunities. Left anchorage about 6 p.m. and arrived opposite Marble Island at 9 p.m. There is a great difficulty in defining exact places all along the coast, so opposite Marble Island meant merely the main shore on the north side of Rankin Inlet, and here we found the long lost for five years Buck or William Ouligbuck, who informed us that the other Huckies farther on had muskox robes. Did a tolerable trade today, when we arrived at Buck's location on the shore, and anchored. Powowah asked my permission to do a little sing song. Getting in the bow of the Laperouse he commenced gesticulating and singing, or rather elocuting to the north in front of him. I asked George Oman, the interpreter, what he was saying. He replied that he was thanking the Spirit of the Winds, who had allowed them to come so far without harm, and was invoking its continued patronage. I regret that I did not get a full trans~ lation and jot it down. At that time I little thought my notes of daily occurrences would mean anything to me in retrospect of the events after many years, any more than the fact that I was the only white man within a radius of approximately 400 miles. Otherwise I would have paid more attention to details of a race, so primitive and untouched by sordid civilization, as to make them unique and worthy of record, even from a boy's standpoint.

132 CHAPTER XXXI

Ouligbuck and Other Matters

. I was. introduced ~o his old wife, who was to accompany him, but 1t was not till sometime afterwards that I found he had a second younger wife, whom he had judiciously left behind, to avoid marital complications at the fort, where his power as a free lance was limited by its discipline. Buck impressed me as being a man of intelligence. Having been with his father, the elder Ouligbuck, as a boy on Arctic expeditions with explorers like Sir John Franklin, Dr. Rae and others, he had acquired a phonetic perfection of language superior to the ordinary Churchillite or average Scotch laborer, with an enhanced vocabu­ lary, therefore it was a treat to converse with him. Buck was a large powerful man, yet active on his feet as a kitten, had a pleasing countenance, was quite a humorist, and delighted in taking a "rise" out of George Oman, whom he had known practically all his life. He could talk his own language, Chippe­ wyan, Cree and English, and had met Spanish and Wastesecoot before, during a sojourn at York Factory under Governor Mactavish. Later I discovered he was a jack of all trades, like the fort men. He could do blacksmith work with the ingenuity of his patient people, was tinsmith, carpenter, sledmaker, hunter, trapper, boatman, could splice a rope and make a net, was respectful, and could be a "white" man with the dignity of a trained mind. And yet he was Esquimaux, could eat raw meat with the rest of his confreres, and forget the luxuries of the forts when in his natin state on occasions. The prospect, however. of seeing Churchill again appealed to him and especially the opening of a yearly trade along the coast which promised less arduous travelling for himself and people. So Buck drank tea, ate biscuit with the gusto of appreciation, and at the prospect of more to follow. Buck could eat as much as any two men. The tale was current that when at York Factory one winter under Governor Wm. Mactavish, he approached that gentleman requesting more food than his one man rations. It was explained

133 to him. that if he did doubk the amount of work, his ration would be increased proportionately. Buck acquiesced and fulfilled the conditions of his contract, thus receiving double rations, which mitigated somewhat the cravings of a well exer­ cised gluttonous stomach. We had no regular ration on this occasion but our hunting provided us with full kettles of rein­ deer meat, ducks, geese, and fish, so every one ate to his stomach capacity on "country produce". During our periods of inaction. owing to wind, weather or ice obstructions, we would go ashore and hunt "measures", meaning T.P.F. gunpowder and shot being distributed gratis to all hunters on such occasions. I could not move without my body guard watching my every step. \Vhen deer were seen, the Esquimaux would drive them past me for a shot from my Winchester 50-95, loaned me by Dr. :\L1tbcws. who had acquired it from a survey party. This survey party. in the interests of a Hudson Bay Railway project organized by Hugh Sutherland, Esquire, was under ..::h,1rgc of Mr. Hamilton Jukes, Messrs. Nicols and Matheson being his assistants. They camped during the winter of 1880-1 on the Nelson Ri \'l'r. \Ve also picked up ducks off the ground, without firing a shot, and had thus all the game we needed without wast,' of ammunition. Ducks, geese and swans frequent these Barren Grounds to bring up their young, go through the moulting stage unmolested, the land being com­ paratively free from depredatory wild animals as far as bird life is concerned. The land itself affords no shelter in the way of bushes. and the scanty bronzed vegetation on sandy or rocky ridges, is, with their assimilative plumage provided by nature. their only protection, combined with the instinct to remain perfectly rigid under foot or hand when so touched. Ducks with their young, when discovered in the ponds or small lakes knowing that the water betrays their presence and movements, immediately make for land on the approach of their enemy, man. There they will run or settle down on the ridges, their bodies and necks extended at full length, to be lost in the general appearance of the short vegetation, unless marked down. Walking towards the observed settlement, one can kneel down, feel all round, grasp them by the neck, and even then they make little or no movement, but when the eye-hitherto elevated or diverted from theirs-is turned in their direction, and eye meets eye, attempted concealment ceases, and the necessity of escape made manifest.

134 Buck, now assuming the role of white man, had to be included in the officers' mess, cooking for which was done bv boiling in a community tin kettle in the fire containing appa·­ ratus ..called by courtesy. a stove. He could always fill any vaca_nc1es he had, by a sly reflection with his fellow countrymen. Oultgbuck had been. as remarked before, with Dr. John Rae on his two expe~iti?ns to Boothia Felix, wintering at Repulse Bay o~ the l~st. tn p m 1 85 3. The party reached the coast opposite Kmg William's Land, and in this vicinity Buck was the first white man who discovered traces of Sir John Franklin's lost vessels. the Erebus and Terror. Sailing along the coast home­ ward bound, Buck told me how he saw two Esquimaux going out seal hunting one morning, the party watching them from behind a snow drift. Allowing the Esquimaux ample time to get far enough away on the ice, Buck made a raid on their igloos, and found no women or children inside. He saw knives and forks however, also Esquimaux snow shovels made from mahogany, and seizing these articles he started back to camp. The two Esquimaux observed his movements and gave chase, but Ouligbuck easily outdistanced them. When, in turn, the Esquimaux saw the numbers (five I think) of Dr. Rae's party, they halted, and it took some time and talking to induce them to enter Dr. Rae's newly built igloo. Buck said he sat between Dr. Rae's legs. as a protection from sudden assault, and learned from these Esquimaux the fate of the Franklin expedition. Coming about lunch time they tried to get the Esquimaux out. as room was limited and the Esquimaux smelt high inside the igloo's warmth. The Esquimaux could not. or would not understand they were required to get out, so Buck told Dr. Rae to fire his pistol behind him. On the report the Esquimaux bolted and the meal was concluded. Such is Buck's recital of an unforgettable adventure. The spoons. forks, etc., were from the Erebus and Terror, and the snow shovels had been made from the vessels' cabin woodwork. As a result of this informa­ tion. \\'ith the first definite proof, Dr. Rae, on his return. rccein::d a sum of money, preferring it to a knighthood, and th<' men of his party shared in the award. Ouligbuck had still a small sum left, the Company having taken charge of the money. The Company allowed 4 o/o yearly on the balances. Bu~k. therefore, besides knowing he would be employed at Churchill. and receive the usual wages paid other laborers, had this in reserve. That he still had money in 1882 and for several year<; after. speaks well for the administration and foresight of the

135 Great Company in their servants' interests, during the many years which had elapsed since the granting of the award. One more tale of the Franklin search and it will be the :finish. All the men were instructed to report to Dr. Rae all sign of animal or bird life when travelling northward. One day Buck observed a mouse track-probably the Labrador leming -in the snow, but thinking it too insignificant for comment did not mention it, till two or three days later in casual conversation with the other men in camp. Buck said Dr. Rae nearly took his head off for disobeying orders, and not reporting the mouse track. "Damn it," said Buck, "who would have thought a mzm could make such a fuss about a mouse track." Ballantyne in his "Ungava" portrayed the elder Ouligbuck, and in his concluding chapter said "left a son who has already rendered good services as Interpreter to the Arctic Explorers as his worthy father did before him." Extract from Journal 17th September, 19 26, describing a visit to St. Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall, Orkney: "Saw Dr. John Rae's commemorative effigy, exceedingly well done, showing the double-barrelled percussion cap, gun, the moccas­ sined feet, and deerskin leggings, laced with moose skin thongs. The leather deerskin blanket was also typical of the old Hudson Bay associations. Born in 1813. Died 18 9 3. We afterwards visited his grave which is third from the East wall (outside), and gathered some seeds from the Veronica which covers his grave a little too thick I y."

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136 CHAPTER XXXII

Marble Island

Our ob_jec~ive had been a~tained, no more Esquimaux being reported withm reasonable distance, we were now at liberty to work our way homewards. Roughly estimated at Churchill as 400_ miles a~~~·. the name of Marble Island had attracted my boyish sensibilities, and today has the same fascination as Stevenson's "Treasure Island". The radio has annihilated distance, so few people can sense the feelings with which the pioneer went into the unknown, stripped of all dependence on civilized life, in the darkness of doubt and solitude before him. Marble Island, about twenty miles long, and half a mile narrow at the south harbour end, was called "Hope's Advance" by Thomas Button, who in 1613 wintered in the Nelson River, and sailed north eastward past its end. In 1631, Captain Luke Fox, in a pinnace of 70 tons called the Charles, coming from Rowe's Welcome, saw a white island bearing south west. He sent a boat ashore, and named it "Brook-Cobham", not recognizing it as Button's "Hope's Advance". Button, by the way, has his name recorded in Button's Bay behind and to the north of Fort Churchill. In 17 42, August 12th, John Rankin of the "Furnace", discovered and explored the harbour on the south side of Marble Island, and in his log of that date the name "Marble Island" first appears. Rankin Inlet is named after him. The Furnace and Discovery wintered probably in Sloop's Cove at Churchill in 17 41-2, and the inscription of that event can be seen chiselled in the rocks. In 1846 Dr. John Rae started with two boats from York Factory. On the 5th July he left Churchill, and arrived at Chesterfield Inlet on the 13th. He returned in 1847. In 1853 Dr. Rae made the successful expedition in search of Sir John Franklin witb Ouli~­ buck as interpreter. I remember reading a note Dr. Rae on this occasion went to the officer in charge at Churchill, from the mouth of the river, asking for a supply of cranberries to prevent scurvy possibly, on his northward trip. Dr. Bell writes "From Esquimaux Point to Chesterfield Inlet the rocks would appear to consist principally of a variety

137 of schists. which cannot be distinguished from those classed as Huronian. Among the specimens from this region are amygda­ loids and other trappean rocks, and likewise one of red sandstone which has the peculiarities of that of the Intermediate Formation, as occurring in Richmond Gulf. Glossy mica schists, like those associated with the quartzites of which the island is mainly composed, are also found on the mainland opposite." Dr. Bell notes large veins of granular iron pyrites along the coast, mica in the interior of the country opposite to Marble Island, and the occurrence of specks of gold in quartz from Repulse Bay. He writes: ''I have however been furnished with descriptions of the whole coast as far as Chesterfield Inlet by friends who have travelled along it, and have also received from them considerable collections of specimens of the :fixed rocks from a number of places between Esquimaux Point and Chesterfield Inlet." These I obtained for him in 1883. Soapstone is a mineral of great use to the Esquimaux, and they have been accustomed from time immemorial to make their pots and lamps out of this rock which they find in various places among the gneisses and crystalline schists of these regions. Marble Island has an outerscarp on the south side and end. Dead Man's Island, about five acres in extent, and the evidence of the tragedies of the Arctic in connection with whaling, etc., are seen in the monuments and cenotaphs erected to commemo­ rate them. The first of these occurred in 1719. Captains Knight. Barlow and Vaughan perished on the east end of Marble Island. As they did not return, John Scroggs, master of the Whalebone, was instructed to search for them from Churchill, but while he reached Marble Island and Whalebone Point, latitude 64 degrees, 56 degrees in 1722, and found pieces of wreck, he did not attach the importance to them he should have done, and returned without completing the search. It was not until 17 67 under Hearne's regime, that a whale :fishery was started at ,\brble Island, and one of the boats discovered a harbour near the east end of the island with its mute record of guns, anchors, and ship's articles. Fifty men seemed to have perished unaccount­ ably in the two years 1719-21, as they must have known the location of Fort Prince of Wales (the newly established Churchill). Scurvy probably was the main cause of the catastrophe. Dead Man's Island is nothing but a ridge of shingle and a graveyard, telling the fate of the men who sail the seven seas in quest of adventure and a living. "Erected to the Memory of

138 the Larboard boats crew, of the Abbie Bradford, lost in the Welcome, September 5th, 1874. W. F. Robinson, .\fate; W. F. Burnham, Boatsteerer; J. Randall, C. Wade, F. Dale, H. K. Lickman." On the opposite side: "Memory of Herman Braun, drowned October 14th, 1874. Marble Island." There are others denoting the remembrance by their comrades. The record of the survivors of the B. K. Ansel Gibbs, wrecked October 17th, 1872, in the inner harbour of .\larble Island, and those who died of scurvy, during the winter, 14 of them apparently, gave grounds for grave reflections on their sufferings, and the torments they passed through till they reached the Haven of true Rest. So while I had all the makings of a boyish culmination of a pirates' cave, the entrance hidden according to the best con­ ception of a story teller, the rusty anchors, the evidence of dead men's bones with hypothetical buried treasure, and the high white rocks or cliffs hiding the topmasts of piratical crafts, I felt rather glad to leave the island and get a more soul-stirring atmosphere from the smell of an Esquimaux summer encamp­ ment, to eradicate its gruesome emblems, and impressions of suffering, abandonment and disaster. While I have not said a great deal about the character of the coast and the dangers of its navigation, the following extract from "The Cruise of the Neptune" by Mr. A. P. Low of the Geological Survey of Canada, 1903-04, may be opportune, and will define them better than I could. "The Western Coast of Hudson Bay is low and flat. It rises very slowly inland from swampy shoals and bars that extend for a considerable distance from the shore line, and render navigation dangerous. This character of coast extends from the southern end of James Bay to beyond the mouth of Churchill harbor. Further North the character of the coast changes somewhat, with a corresponding unevenness in the sea bottom. Beyond Esquimaux Point in 61 N. latitude, the straight shore of the southward gives place to a ragged coastline, broken by large bays, and fringed with rocky islands. having shallow water beneath them, and a broken bottom wry dangerous to navigation on this account, and because of the danger from outlying shoals. and strong currc'nts. the navigation of Chesterfield Inlet, and that of . the ?the.~ Northern bays and harbours is debarred f~om cons1d~rat1on. This description furnishes a reason for the disasters which befell the whaling vessels.

139 CHAPTER XXXIII

Homeward Bound

Monday, 24th July, 1882. Slept last night off Bucks palace. Started after shipping Ouligbuck's impedimenta, his old wife and children, Donald Julius and Effie. The old lady appeared quite happy over the prospect of a winter spent at Churchill (free from the dread of another winter's starvation), where she had had former experiences of a like nature, and was sure of a welcome by the heterogenous femininity there. We left 8 a.m. under double reefed foresail, and an hour or two later, shook out reefs and set the mainsail. After 1 p.m. we again reefed. Now the Esquimaux are kleptomaniacs, though not to be considered or classed as thieves like the Indians, who have the intent to steal within them, but as children who take hold of articles without understanding that their attraction to them and act of acquirement is wrong. To prepare against eventualities with so many Esquimaux crowding us in the Laperouse, to trade, and with open boxes all round, I arranged with Allilika­ whack that he should watch and frustrate any attempt at shoplifting, promising him some tobacco for his faithful service. This mark of our confidence pleased Allilikawhack exceedingly and he ably protected the goods from being pilfered. The fun of the arrangement was in the fact that Allilikawhack was the greatest sinner in this line himself, but it reduced our watching to a minimum as my men had only Allilikawhack to supervise. When the trade was over, and the other Esquimaux had left, we relieved Allilikawhack of his ill-acquired spoils. These he surrendered most good naturedly, and with a smiling counten­ ance, when we carried out our contract and gave him his really earned tobacco. Our first real trade thus ended happily. Being about midnight I ordered my polyglot crew to get ready to sail. Before hoisting the anchor, however, I ordered an inspection of our heaving lead line. Lo and behold, the line was there, but the twelve-pound lead was missing. One Esquimaux had got ahead of us in spite of Allilikawhack's vigilance. I immediately

140 ordered a cessation of work, and with Ooligbuck, in our little tender, we pulled ashore, having no need to summon the crowd as they all ~athered to ascer~ain the cause of our return. I spoke to the Ook1mow and explamed the serious results which might overtake us in the loss of our boat from dangerous rocks and shoals if we did not have the lead to tell us the depth of water. I also pointed out that if our boat became a wreck by reason of this act of theirs they too would suffer as the Company might not send another boat next year, not being able to trust them any more. The old man listened quietly, and then through Buck, told me to go back to the Laperouse. Paying immediate tribute to his own authority, and trustfulness, by acquiescence to his desire, we returned to the Laperouse and after half an hour's waiting we saw a solitary Kayak approaching from the twilight shadow of the rocks. An Esquimaux came along side and was assisted on board with the lead in his hand. We talked the matter over quite sociably, and he was asked why he had taken it. He belonged to another tribe, and had joined up with the Ookimow's people only a few days ago, and he had nothing to trade as he had come a long distance from inland. He saw others getting powder, shot, bullets and flints, and as he had no lead wherewith to kill deer during the summer or coming winter, he thought we would not have the need for the lead attached to a line, as it was evidently a superfluity from its exposed and neglected position. Its usefulness was pointed out to him, and also the fact that though he had no furs, etc., to trade, the Company would give him the same measures or gratuities as those who had, because they wished all Esquimaux to be provided with ammunition to secure game for themselves and families. In the future, therefore, he was to ask for powder, etc., and also inform the distant Esquimaux that this was the rule and custom of the good Company, and that we hoped to be back again next season to get their returns. The Esquimaux was given his measures, and departed in his Kayak with happi­ ness in his soul. The Esquimaux value lead bullets above all things, and are very careful to extract the fired bullets from dead animals and use them over and over again. 26th, Wednesday. This morning I had a shot at a lot of walrus but missed as they were too far off. There wer: more on the island. We left our anchorage at 6 a.m. and sailed to another island. Here Buck, Wastesecoot, Oman and I went ashore. Saw only a white fox which must have been sha_nghied by the ice breaking up before he could escape to the mainland.

141 Birds and eggs of eider ducks kept him alive. What is in a name can be illustrated here. There were numerous ducks around Churchill, and one species was called locally the "Huckic Duck" and considered therefore uneatable. On thQ island we found a number of Huckie Duck's nests. When alarmed this duck covers its eggs with the down of its nest, and protects it further from discovery by natural means. I could have gathered quantities of this down. had I known that the despised Huckie Duck was really the Eider Duck, but this knowledge only came to me in later years, when my opportunity of securing the material for an eider down quilt had passed. Saw no walrus here. After dinner had two shots at walrus, but they were again too far away. \Ve sailed till we reached Allilikawhack's abode inshore. and traded with his band till midnight, getting a few foxes. Stopped here all night.

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14 2 CHAPTER XXXIV

My First Walrus Hunt

a [?uring o~r trade with Allilikawhack I frequently heard It peculiar barking sound, apparently coming from seaward. the air was a calm evening. and nothing broke the stillness of As excepting the talk of the Esquimaux and this strange sound. the I turned and listened to seaward to see if I could solve problem. the Esquimaux talked eagerly among themselves. little he Ouligbuck having, of course, most to say. After a Buck. addressed me. "Do you hear that sound, Sir?·· ''Yes, little to what is it?" "It's walrus, Sir, on that small island, a like the south of that big one, and the Huckies say if you would fellows to see some killed they will go with you and those their tomorrow morning in your boats, and they will take we are kayaks to come back in, and we can go right on, after are." done." "All right. Buck, I am ready whenever you and the "Those fellows" I may mention were my Indians interpreter. the I turned in a little after midnight and at 6 a.m. on 27th July, 1882, I bade the majority of the Esquimaux greeting "Timah". generally written as "Chimo"-the ordinary anchor. of welcome or salutation on departure-and weighed and I increased my force with six experienced walrus hunters. one experienced thief. as I found out later on. This gentleman was my now old friend Allilikawhack. the By the time we reached the larger island. pointed out to previous evening by William Ouligbuck, the tide had begun as flow, therefore we postponed the engagement till low water, small the island on which the walrus were congregated was very at -in fact it was merely a large shoal. the top only visible yards high water. At low tide a promontory showed, about 150 in length. Our party were in good spirits, talking and laughing. made and I traded a carved pipe from an unsuspecting native. stone­ from a piece of "La pis Ollaris" (potstone) . This utilize soapstone-takes an excellent polish. and the Esquimaux it for kettles, some of large size, shaped in a hollowed-out Museum oblong. A specimen can be seen in the Winnipeg

143 which I presented, on request, to Inspecting Chief Factor James McDougall in 1889. and took all the way from Churchill to \Vinnipeg at some little inconvenience, and without acknowledg­ ment. Pipe-heads were chiefly of this stone. the stems being of wood or bone. These pipes are artistic, being inlaid with precious lead in designs which suggest a Chinese origin. and an infinite patience in construction. The soapstone lamps or odloos, shaped as a crescent moon. are hollowed out to hold the oil and moss which constitute their only means of light, and melting snow on occasions. The varied size and forms of stone kettles or receptacles for food, find a similarity in all the nomadic tribes of North America. Greenland, Lapland and Siberia. linking them with a common origin. About 600 yards from the walrus island we dropped anchor, and in our little tender and kayaks pulled and paddled to the larger one, which was roughly five miles from the mainland. At 7 o'clock p.m. "All hands up anchor" is my cry and in a few minutes willing arms and hands had the chain and anchor inboard. As there was not a breath of wind, the oars were put out, and under this propulsion the "Laperouse" slowly glided through the water towards the enemy. We could see fathoms deep in the clear \\'Jter, and after an hour's pull the first walrus rose up with a snort astern of us. We went on steadily with bated breath, as if our lives and reputation depended on the quietude of approach. the walrus getting more numerous as we advanced. On every side of the boat heads appeared, and their long gleaming ivory tusks reflected the sun's rays like polished steel. Dozens of times did I grasp my rifle and take sight along the barrel. but old Allilikwhack says "Wachow-hoo" and I "held on" accordingly. "Will we never get to that island. All the walrus will be off. Buck, before we get there," I exclaim in impatience. But Buck, as cool as the rest replies, "No fear, Sir. it is all right." In my present mood of "Great Expectations" I am inclined to think it is all wrong, and feel like telling him so. when a walrus is reported sleeping on the water, and I go forward. Allilikawhack guided by my hands, steers for him and Wastesec~ot takes one of the long boat poles in his hand ready for action. The boat is within two feet and still the walrus sleeps on. Down comes the pole on his ribs, one glance at the dozen laughing faces above him, and he dives, not to be n_oticed again among the scores which are now blowing on all sides. We are now 9 p.m. and near the walrus island and we go as close to its shore as we can, for none of us care t~ pull in

144 the small boat among those fearful-looking tusks for any distance, and then the anchor is dropped. As we fifteen step and crowd into the small boat, she settles down until only a single plank is above water. There is just room for the oars to move, and as we leave the "Laperouse", I ve?ture to enquire what our fate will be if the boat capsizes with so many walrus around us. Buck, always charged with a sense of humour, merely grins, but I do not feel safe till my feet rest on terra firm a. We had no confidence in each other, otherwise our party might have been divided, and landed in two detachments instead of one. Each man was anxious to be the first, and rather than let his neighbor get ahead of him, he was willing to take the chance of getting drowned and maimed in his company. At last the landing is satisfactorily accomplished on the low tide exposed spit or point, and after the boat is fastened, an inspection of our weapons takes place. The Esquimaux depend mainly on their spears or lances; my crew and myself have guns. The plan of battle is arranged and five minutes' breathing spell allowed before commencing operations. Allilikawhack is the leader, Buck is next and I bend down behind him, the others behind me. Each man stoops as he jumps from stone to stone, going slowly at first, but as we near the walrus the pace is quickened. The front rank of the walrus detect the movement and begin to retreat, but the numbers behind are not to be moved, and for a moment there is a check. Allilikawhack breaks into a run, and is followed by us all with yells. Within a couple of yards of the front rank the "Indian file" deploys into line of battle, each selecting his animal. The muskets are discharged and flung aside by the Esquimaux, who now handle their deadly spears, while my crew stick to their guns, and pour volley after volley into the seething mass. The walrus are panic-stricken and endeavour to reach the water, but in their front, now up to their knees in water, stand two Esquimaux, keeping them back by pricking their noses with their spears. It is only, however, for a short time, the mass behind have too much momentum to be stopped, so Ackpa and Achinak retire to harass the rear, having done excellent work in holding the enemy in check. We have in the meantime not been idle. The guns are heated, and my cartridges nearly expended. There is no time by tht; Indians or Esquimaux_ for scientific loading. Pour a little powder out of your horn mto the left hand, then into the barrels of your gun, spit in the bullet, hammer the ball on the ground, put on a new percussion 145 cap and fire. Some of the shots thus loaded and fired were not deadly. as the bullets on one or two occasions were heard running out of the barrels, and r.:ither than lose the shots, the men fired to catch the bullets. Such a turmoil I never saw. The noise w.:is stupendous, and the setting sun was obscured in smoke. The warm blood pouring from the sides and heads of the walrus emitted a most disagreeable odour. The smoke of the guns settled like a pall on us. The crack, crack of firearms. and veils of the s.wages were deafening, and at last I ordered "cease firing''. Luckily for some of the men I did so. When the smoke lifted, we found that a cross fire had been going on. A party headed by Allilikawhack had penetrated the centre of the walrus herd. cleared a space, and then attacked on either side. There WJ\ too much excitement to think of anybody but oneself. and my call was not before time. The smoke cleared away and showed a large number of walrus still on the island, some dead, some wounded. and others endea\·ouring to climb over the carcasses between them and the sea. This they were slow in doing, and the slaughter \\' zis renewed, but merely so far as to kill the wounded. I do not suppose an hour had elapsed before the fight was over, and I counted seventy dead walrus. In the midst of the attack I noticed Allilikawhack distinguishing himself. The first look I had at him I thought he was to be instantly killed by the furious animals. but another look showed me he was capable of taking care of himself. His eyes were everywhere. and a prick of his spear prevented a pair of tusks going into his back: the next instant the spear was in the heart of the walrus, and so he continued for some time. He no doubt was the best and most skillful walrus hunter, but he had other qualities of equalization which developed later. Before the fight I thought that walrus were the most clumsy animals. but when they began to move, I altered my opinion. A full-grown walrus weighs over a ton. the length IO or 12 feet. I measured an old bull walrus the next year, and his waist line was 14 feet, so they are as nearly broad as they are long. Two large tusks measuring on an average about 12 inches exposed, are the tools wherewith they search for mussels, shellfish, or food from the floor of the sea, and on most tusks the wear and tear in turning over stones. 1!tc., _can be detected on the inside of the tusk tips very palpably. Their muzzles are heavy and flat, with whisker bristles like quills of the fretful porcupine. The hide resembles that of a cow, and indeed the meat has an affinity with beef. which tickles

146 the palate of the Esquimaux. There were hundreds on the small island, wedged together from the top of the mound to the water's edge, and beyond, yet in an hour, if not less, none but

147 converse with, and enter into the success of the hour, and some­ how I did not feel ~o proud of our slaughter as at first, as I viewed the carcasses so lately full of life, and having their place in the plan of Creation. While we had killed seventy walrus. and could not possibly take anything but the ivory tusks with us, there was no wanton waste, as the Esquimaux would later return, obtaining the meat, hides (for ropes for their sleds. spearing. etc.) and render the blubber for their butter, and for use in their oodloos or stone lamps. The Esquimaux are not improvident like the Indians, consequently everything is used. even in a state of frozen putrification. Those dead animals would be a godsend to the Esquimaux. their wives and children. After such a day of excitement, we slept well. Next morning we were astir early, and I hailed the Esquimaux to bring off the small boat, they having remained ashore all night eating and cutting out tusks, etc. When they came on board I collected the tusks, and divided the spoils equally and paid them share and share alike. As soon as the business was concluded, I ordered the anchor weighed, and bade goodbye to the Esquimaux who had assisted in the hunt. Old Allilikawhack seconded my orders to the Esquimaux to get into their kayaks and go ashore most energetically, and succeeded in getting three of the belated ones a little distance from the "Laperouse", before he attempted getting into his own kayak. This took a little extra time, and when he pulled off it was only for a few yards. During this performance the anchor had been taken inboard, when Allilikawhack was seen to turn his kayak, and make like a darting swallow towards us. In a very great hurry he scrambled and was hauled out of his kayak. assisted by his son. He pulled out his bag, and drew therefrom six beautiful tusks, for which he requested payment in tobacco instanter. I had no time to give him a lecture and the old rascal knew it well. When he took his final departure he was all smiles, and his final "Timah" was shouted as heartily and cheerily as an honest man of business who had done his duty and his neighbors. As all of us had been indebted to him, and he had killed the greater number-I had seven fall to my rifle-we considered he was really entitled to more than an ordinary division of the hunt, and I think the old fellow had some glimmering of this fact in the back of his cute cranium. Anyway everybody on board appeared satisfied, and he offered us a good laugh. Gone for many years are the "old familiar faces", but "not forgotten".

148 CHAPTER XXXV

The Walrus .. . Inter Alia .. .

"The walrus is distinctly a carnivorous animal. its natural food consists of the mollusca it obtains about the Arctic coast, either finding them about the rocks exposed by the tides, or more usually diving for them in from ten to twenty fathoms of water ~overing submarine banks. Fish have occasionally been found m the stomachs. An isolated fact of this kind, together with the similarity in form of the walrus and seal. might easily suggest a theory of similarity in seeking food, a thing, however, quickly confuted by a practical study of the comparative clum­ siness of the walrus, and a due appreciation of those formidable tusks which are used to plough up the sea bottom in search of shells. "The form of the long eye-teeth or tusks obeys the law which applies to the modification of the teeth of other animals, viz, that any peculiarity may subordinately be useful in other ways, notably for protecting the individual. and here for climbing onto the ice-floes from the water. "Walruses use their tusks against one another very much in the manner that game-cocks use their beaks. From the animal's unwieldy appearance and the position of the tusks, one is apt to fancy that the latter can only be used in a stroke downwards, but, on the contrary, they can turn their necks with great facility and quickness, and can strike either upwards. down­ wards, or sideways, with equal dexterity. I have frequently observed them fighting with great ferocity on the ice, and the skins of the old bulls, which are light-colored and nearly devoid of hair, are often covered with scars and wounds received in these encounters. Frequently one or both tusks have been broken in fighting. or in clambering up the ice and rocks, but they soon get worn and sharpened to a point by the sand at the sea bottom, which they plough up in search of food. "The tusks are very firmly embedded for about six or seven inches of their length in a mass of hard and dense bone. forming

149 the front of the animal's head. This long protuberance is th\.' size of a man's skull. and through it runs the passage by which the animal breathes, the blow holes lying between the roots of the tusks. That part of the tusk which is embedded in the head is hollow, or rather filled up with a cellular bony structure containing oil; the rest of the tusk is hard and solid throughout. "The calf has no tusk the first year, but the second year, \V hen it has attained to the size of a large seal, it has a pair about as large as the canine teeth of a lion, the third year they are about six inches long. Instances have been known of two tusks growing together in a single socket on one side, while the tusk of the other side has appeared single as usual. "Tusks vary very much in size and shape according to the age and sex of the animal. A good pair of bull's tusks may be st,1ted as 24 inches long, and four pounds a piece in weight. I ha\·,., obtained several pairs above these dimensions, and in particular one pair which measures thirty-one inches in length and weigh eight pounds each. Such a pair of tusks, however, is extremely rare. and I never to the best of my belief, saw a pair nc.:nly equal to them among many thousand walruses. although I always took the utmost pains to secure the best, and inv,1riably inspected the tusks carefully with the glass. before firing a shot. or throwing a harpoon. "Cow's tusks will average fully as long as bull's, from their being less liable to be broken, but they are seldom more than twenty inches long. and three pounds each in weight; they are generally set much closer together than the bull's tusks, some­ times O\'crlapping one another at the points. as seen in the stuffed specimen in the British 1\1useum. The tusks of old bulls. on the contrary, generally diverge from one another, being as much as fifteen inches apart at the points. It is a common belief .1mongst the hunters that those walruses which have wide-set tusks are the most sa\'age and dangerous and more particularly if the tusks diverge from one another in curves as is sometimes, though rarely. the case . .. \Valrus tusks are composed of extremely hard dense and white ivory. Their small size rendering them inapplicable for many i\'ory manufacturers, they do not command nearly the price of elephant ivory, but they are high in repute for the manufacture of false teeth. and are also made into chessmen, umbrella handles, whistles and similar small articles. In the cabin of the ''Diana" during foul weather we found many an

150 hour·s amusement and occupation in shaping tusks into very respectable paper kni vcs with the aid of the carpenter's saw and files. "The upper lip of the walrus is thickly set with strong horny bristles about six inches long, and as thick as a crow­ q uill. and this terrific moustache. together with his long white tusks. and fierce-looking blood-shot eyes, gives Rosmarus Trichechus altogether a most unearthly and demoniacal appear­ ance as he raises his head above the waves. "James Lamont gives the length of a very large and fat cow as eleven feet five inches long in his ''Yachting in the Arctic Seas". from which the foregoing description, which could not be improved upon by me. has been quoted. and states "an ordinary walrus must weigh 3 000 pounds; a full-sized old bull walrus must weigh at least 5000 pounds, and such a walrus, if very fat. will produce 650 pounds of blubber, but seldom more than 500 pounds, which is, I think, the average amount yielded by the most obese of our victims." The "Diana" mentioned was launched in the Clyde in March. 1869, a three-masted schooner of 251 tons with com­ pound engines of thirty horsepower. Lamont used the "Diana" for discovery and hunting in Novaya Zembya and the Kara Sea, and his book makes interesting reading. She was afterwards sold to Leigh Smith, whose name is given to Cape Leigh Smith, and who utilized the vessel for similar purposes. Later the Hudson's Bay Company bought her, sending her, if I remember aright, to Ungava. experimentally to transport salmon. The iron tanks of the "Diana" were sent to Fort Churchill while I was there, and Mr. Spencer used them as oil receptacles in the interior of the oil reduction plant or shed, while outwardly the four formed part of the exterior walls ( conserving lumber) of the building at the south side of the river, where the white whale operations were carried on.

1 5 1 CHAPTER XXXVI

Trip to Marble Island and Closing In of Winter

We had a fair wind and arrived at Much-e-tow-tie's camp. where we traded and stopped for the night. The Esquimaux part of my crew went ashore to participate in a conjuring fete or Sing. The Hi Hi. and sound of the parchment drum was heard all night, so no doubt there was much rejoicing over current events, and feasting; our four Musketeers generously, as is their nature, furnishing the walrus steaks and tit-bits. This camp was to the north of Knap's Bay. Ackpa was an experienced conjurer, judging from the adornments tagged onto his walrus hide belt chiefly consisting of small strips of white deerskin. Whenever a camp was reached, for some reason known only to themselves, a strip was added to the belt, taken from the body, and handed over for the purpose. There are women conjurers as well. but they are the exception rather than the rule. Next day we made for another encampment in Knap's Bay and traded. From Esquimaux Point to Churchill, the little bands of half a dozen men and women with children and dogs had been to the latter for the seal hunt, and had nothing to trade outside meat or salmon. To all intents and purposes the trading was over and we were free to make for the Fort. One night I was steering the "Laperouse" with Achinak and George Oman composing the watch. It was a beautiful night with full moon. and while the boat was slipping smoothly through the water, a distance from land, on a full tide, I thought I would interview the Esquimaux mind. I therefore asked Achinak what he thought of the moon. He said: "It is a good thing which gave light when the sun had gone out." I then asked him if he ever thought how the moon got up in the sky. or who made it, and his reply was illuminative intel­ Iectuall y. He said: "There is no use bothering one's head about it, because it was good, and anything good they accepted without comment as it was unnecessary to worry over it." Rather a simple philosophy, but wonderfully satisfying to a savage of uncommon sense.

152 With the incoming tide the "Laperouse" came alongside the jetty near the blubber house, and we were greeted by Mr. Spencer and the inhabitants with much joy. We had a fairly good return in furs, a little oil, ivory, boots, etc., had no mishaps, brought back William Ouligbuck, hi~ wife and family, and had opened a trade which offered good prospects for an increase of business. The Smithsonian Institute and other Natural History Museums had written the Company requesting skeletons of musk-ox and Narwhal horns, and this trade alone, had it been prosecuted as I desired, would have been remunerative. In making out my report, I mentioned the possibilities of a lucra­ tive trade. Verbally I offered to go and live among the Esquimaux with Ouligbuck, either at Wager River or Repulse Bay, Wager River in preference, as according to Buck's account, the musk-ox could be reached better from there. There was the question also of being appointed a Customs House 9fficer and collect dues from poaching American whalers and to exercise British control of the territory. I remember Buck also telling me of salmon spawning in the Wager River, and his description was corroborated in my own observations later in the Dominion Hatchery on 0-w~e-kay-no Lake, B.C., and the surrounding rivers. But my suggestion that the H.B.C. cancel my five years contract and enter into a new one at one hundred pounds ( untold riches in those days) which would mean a promotion of five years for my willingness to exile myself. and would bring the Company exceedingly large profits was not acted on either by Mr. Spencer or Chief Factor Joseph Fortescue. This disregard killed my ambition, I think, and I saw nothing but the long grind of two years more to complete my first apprentice contract, three years at seventy-five pounds, until I reached the one hundred pounds mark of my desires. At that time the refusal looked like a penitentiary sentence. When Mr. Fortescue left York Factory in 1884, he told me that he dared not take the responsibility of banishing me alone, even when I was willing to go, principally for my father's sake, with whom he was on the sincerest terms of friendship, and I also because it was intended on my joining the Service, that would in a year or so, go inland. and reap the advantage of an opening country. My initiative designs and aspirations received a check, and resulted in a disappointment which developed into obedience to orders and an accuracy of detail which kept me merely commonplace. Yet that training and disappointment have been useful to me in other lines of experience, and I bear 153 no ill will to the Hudson's Bay Company, only they lost ,1 golden opportunity through an adherence to precedent in pro­ motion. My good uncle Donald McTavish wrote me in 1911. on the occasion of the steamer "Pelican" going to Marble Island to establish a post, after one of his inspection trips from Norway House to York Factory district: "Did you not suggest estab- 1ishing a post at Chesterfield Inlet for the Company a few years ago?" I replied it was on) y twenty-eight years since I made the proposition. and offer of my services, and I was pleased to know that Time had at last proved the soundness of my deduc­ tions from this \ larble Island trip. Of course there was much talk about. and it was decided I should go to York Factory and report verbally also to \lr. Fortescue all the details of the trip, and our expectations there­ from. so on Tuesday, the 8th of August, in company with Spanish and James Oman, I started for York Factory. carrying blanket. gun. ammunition, etc., and walked along the coast. \V c hunted our food along the way as usual, and as August is the best month for ducks. geese, plover, etc., we had ample sport. and a variety of cooking. We remained at York Factory. and caught the "Ocean Nymph" back, leaving Spanish at the Factory. Immediately the ship left and the goods were taken up the river to the fort. the wharf was dissembled and stored above high water mark. where overflows could not reach it. Wood was a valuable commodity at Churchill. especially for structural purposes. and every available piece of timber was treasured as being more than fine gold. \Vith the good-bye of the ship, the severance of home ties. the outlook of a long winter came exceedingly close to us. Not for months would we see any other faces but our own. The long dark nights. with one candle-illuminated room. were making themselves felt in my thoughts already. I felt more cut off from everything worth living that fall, than at any time of my existence. That that winter made a great impression on my mentality is evidenced in the account of a struggle to retain one's reason against heavy odds. When I started to attempt to fulfill a longing to jot down these memories for my own study as from a different individual standpoint, I wrote the following chapter, or chronicle first, and now place it as the Keystone of the Arch, which can carry any other burden of life with security of the confidence acquired in oneself.

154 CHAPTER XXXVII

Solitude

l'he long dreary months, especially of the first two winters al i:ort Churchill, left impressions which can never be eradicated. Coming from York Factory, where one had companions with direct daily intercourse, regular routine work, access to a good library, and a larger environment of ideals pertaining to civilized associations, the change to exile in a 1 Ox 16 cabin, or house, with a roof so low that one could touch it with the fingertips easily, giving an atmosphere of compression, accentuated by two small windows of nine small panes of glass 6x6 in front, to see through for any distance, one had to stoop down, could not be anything but depressive. A smaller window at the back gave a little additional light from the south, with a view, when the tide was out, of a boulder-strewn mud flat, adjoining flat marshy ground in summer. converted into an ice-covered plain in winter, flanked to the north by a ridge of rock, the main dividing line between Churchill River and Button's Bay. There was only one room, and later when we, had secured enough timber, this was curtailed by a partition to make a space for a few necessary store articles, like tobacco, matches, clay pipes, etc., to save going to the trading room in colder weather, and also served as an extra porch in winter, where one could rid oneself of snow and ice from capot, leggings and moccasins, before entering the Sanctum Sanctorum. In winter time blocks of snow were piled outside the walls to aid in keeping the place warm, though they diminished outside visibility. The only heating apparatus was a small Carron stove, and the fuel, stunted tamarac, which unless dry imparted little heat. The Carron stove was simply an iron oblong box, with a door and damper attached, and while admirably suited to burn the poor quality of wood, was neither artistic nor comforting in appearance, no light from the interior being visible. The furniture of the room was all country made, bed, table, chair, washstand, and as this room also served as the "office" a couple of pieces of plank, covered with green baize,

155 nailed under the back window, formed the desk. To convey an idea of primitive conditions, we made our ink from powders. :\ cassette, or dovetailed constructed trunk, made honestly to stand hard handling on boat or portage, served as the container of one's personal wealth in clothes, relics or souvenirs of civilization, and when the lid was closed, as an extra seat. The spruce floor was bare. I cannot forget that first winter's experience in such con­ stricted and compressed surroundings. Mr. and Mrs. Spencer had their family affairs to attend to, which kept them busy, and being much older people, were not quite in tune with a boy of eighteen. Of the two white men employees, one was a pen­ sioner-deaf and old, the other, marrying a half-breed, had become as one, and was the dirtiest man about the place. Half a dozen men of mixed nationalities and all breeds, with equally assorted Indian breed wives and children formed the speaking element. As there was a good deal of jealousy inherent in the communitv. although nearly all related to one another, one had to be circumspect, and not be familiar with or show partiality to any member. The Company's unwritten law practically prohibited an officer from visiting the men's quarters except on business , consequently the only private intercourse was by inviting any of the men to one's quarters. Owing to the jealousy aforesaid. it became necessary to limit these visits to a minimum, so, even poor as their conversation was mentally, for the sake of discipline one had to curtail private association to a great extent. This denial was, of course, not conducive to a more cheering atmosphere, but made isolation more pronounced. While once or twice a week I visited my traps, I had not acquired the spirit of the hunter, which later kept me outdoors continually. so after every little round of the traps, I was attracted, like the hunted animal itself, back to my den, there to attempt to kill time by smoking, and a little desultory reading and to feel the friendship of its four little walls. From the very bitterness of solitude springs an affection for the dilapidated stockades and wooden shacks of Fort Churchill. The little child ?ives its affection and love to an armless, broken, dirty rag doll. m preference to the gaudily dressed perfect product of the art shops. The shelter of its rocks, bleak and barren as they are, were never despised, and amid all the artificial beauties of ~ity li~e. its miserable poverty of surroundings has established itself m my heart as lovable, because of its useful reality, beyond all description.

156 OU LIBUCK H U Tl G WAL R US Shakespeare in King Lear expresses this meaning when he says: "Generous my lord, hard by here is a hovel, Some friendship will it lend you 'gainst the tempest." And when the blizzards, conjunction of fierce winds, whirling, stinging, icy particled snow, and a temperature away below zero, made going to another house distressing, there was generally the air of ownership and the sense of security, a premonition of the realization in later years of the true value of a home. Smoking my pipe, and filling another to make that occupa­ tion continuous, I walked from one end of the room to the other, all that winter, till I wore a defined track in the wooden floor with my moccasined feet. I had the restlessness of the wild animal in captivity. When I was aboard the "Prince of Wales" I learned and sang the sailors' chanties. There were chants to suit all sorts of work and weather, Sally Brown, Rio Grande, Haul on the Bowling, Ranzo, Whisky Johnny, and others of a humourous, jolly, heart enlivening-and it need be in dangerous weather, nature. When the sailors begged "Give me some time to blow the man down" in the darkness of howling night, and the salt white spume spluttered, hissed, and flew all around, as they hauled up the reefed topsail yard, or waited for the chorus before sheeting home the mainsail, the ecstacy of living was in their voices and hearts as they fought the tempest. He who has shared in similar scenes can appreciate the value of song, though the words be crude. So as day after day passed, I tried to cheer myself with the remembrance of ship life, imagined myself "Homeward Bound", and sang the tune and words to drive dull care away. There came a day when those cheering fight-inspired tunes and words palled, and my voice and will failed to carry me through one verse. One's own voice had rebelled and become almost abhorrent in the stillness of solitary existence, the spirit of Youth had departed, there was no companionship to keep one's balance even, no encouragement or mental communion, and so the voice died, killed by silence and want of heart food. Then I began to wonder what such a state meant, \vhy one's youth should be taken from him, all the games given up, which serve to keep body and soul together, and friends become as if non-existent. Many a time as I sat the old year out and the

157 New Year in. when every soul \\'as in bed because the change had little significance for them in their hum-drum lives. did these thoughts present themselves and occupy my brain. There seemed to be no way of arriving at a conclusion. There was no one with whom to discuss the problem, as the minds of the employees were infertile of ideas beyond their daily local occur­ rences. and the nearest intelligence was two hundred miles away. One felt an affinity with the last hour and minute of the old year, when he visualized himself as the last man. The limit of loneliness had been reached. The few inhabitants being aslcq1 were non-existent, and looking outside, the pall of white snow over our whole world seemed to hold out no hope of a resurrec­ tion morn. This was a lone fight for sanity. Reason was not within one's full grasp. for one had no teachers to show a solution. and one's own mental accomplishments were too distrustfully immature and insufficient to argue the why and wherefore. Faith, however. in one's self to do one's duty, the thought that others might be thinking of us far away, strengthened the determination to succeed and surmount difficulties. So closed a year of many experiences. The awful depression of loneliness, which would make a wolf howl in misery, the seeming injustice of being born to spend life. as if it were not-a living death-and the mind warring against it, but breaking itself to pieces as waws on a rock-bound coast, in doubting quest of something satisfying. Probably other men have wondered in similar circumstances and experiences, but not having read of them undergoing the same mental disturbances at that time or age, the whole phase was new, terrifying and questionable to me. One could not conceive the Creator from human standpoint, or assimilate the magnitude of His works. Yet one's perceptions became tuned to the Infinite in that grandeur of Supreme Silence, where Nature's elements seemingly held its everlasting, unrelenting. implacable cruel grip. The dual personality of God, as a God of War and Love, or contrasts seemed illustrated in the icebound desolate almost unforgiving region; there was no warmth, no pu_rpose to be served, no necessity for living, no understanding this a~pect of ::\'ature, till reason, supplemented by faith and hope m one's determined spirit, directed one's attention to sprin?time. In the clear crisp air and bright sunshine, the Great Arch1.tect of the C niverse appeared to reveal his wonderful workmgs to the thoughts of a boy fighting for a way of under-

158 standing for his guidance, and the lessons learned in those silent places, and the memory of those early struggles have not been lost. Sir Gilbert Parker has said that "the ice is very thin between Man and God in the Silent Places." In that grandeur of intense solitude and Nature's strength, the Benedicite aptly seals the confirmation of Omnipotence: "0 ye Ice and Snow, bless ye the Lord Praise Him and magnify Him forever." The following little incident will attest the mental poise and atmosphere, and enable the psychologist to adjust his comprehension of the struggle and temperament thus undergoing the strain. In the fall behind some boxes on a shelf in the trading (log) room I discovered a lot of bluebottle flies, in what I took to be a comatose or hibernating state. Imbued with an experimental or rather, investigating mind, I secured a dozen or so, and put them in a box. I kept them all winter in my little room. When the sun began to send out heat rays, I placed the box-towards Spring-in the back window, which faced the sun, so that the bluebottles could have the benefit of the heat and return to life, if that was possible. Apparently the sun was, in my mind, not yet strong enough, and being impatient, I opened the damper of the Carron stove referred to, and held the open box with the object of warming them up more expedi­ tiously. A second or two elapsed, then a blue flame seemed to issue from the damper's orifice, and lo and behold, the blue­ bottles were gone. Perhaps there had been enough phosphorous on the bluebottles to attract the draft, at any rate my' Presby­ terian upbringing, or deductions responded as rapidly as the blue flame, and I saw Hades in the distance, for torturing­ however innocent my motive-and interfering with Nature's development. and felt positive the Devil had got me.

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159 CHAPTER XXXVIII

Fighting It Out

One of the instances of having to fight one's battles unaided occurred some wars later, when I was in charge alone, Mr. Spencer having been transferred to York Factory. I had imbibed a better liking for reading books, finding a companionship that smoothed many otherwise weary hours, peopling my surround­ ings with intimate valued friends, the creation of wonderful brains. Among the allotment of books consigned to Fort Churchill was "Dr. Jekyl and Mr. Hyde" and that psycho­ logical study caused me more terror and suspense than anything I have read before or since. As I proceeded into the book, the uncanny situation per­ ml'.1tcd my very vitals, and I would lay the book aside, terrified to read any further. Here again the want of an intelligent companion is exemplified. There was no one with whom to share the gruesome reading, no one to consult and discuss the why and wherefore whether the book was a reality or the reverse. I became regularly scared at what the outcome or solu­ tion would be. It was a horrible (new) subject, and the further I advanced into the book, the less I liked it. My room became full of spooks, and as I visited my traps on snowshoes, the sligLtl',t crack of expanding ice, or noise in the clear frosty air, made me jump, outwardly and inwardly-my nerves were on edge. I could not free my brain of what fearful development the author had conceived in what appeared to me as insanity, and Dr. Jekyl and Mr. Hyde were getting altogether too much for me. Strengthened after a walk, with fresh air and exercise, I would take up the book, read one or two lines and drop it with the same repugnance and fear. Time and time again I tackled its reading, each attempt weakening my powers of resist­ ance to proceed, till finally I decided not to finish the book, but return it to York Factory unread. So for days I left it alone, but th~re was no getting rid of the creeps, and in the air I heard th~ voice, and felt there were things I could not understand, and this one was getting too much for me. It came at last to a

160 showdown. I realized I had to read that book to the end, or go crazy with its undefined probabilities. What it cost me to go through that ordeal no one can realize, but I did stick to it, and Dr. Jekyl and Mr. Hyde disappeared from my terrified vision forever as a mind disturber. I read that book once, twice, three times, till there was nothing left to fear. For good measure I read it four times. A book can have more influence for good or evil, where there is no one with whom to discuss it. One, whose imagination is acute or impressionable, living in solitude, mental or physical, in the course of his readings becomes imbued with the style or conceptions of certain authors, which may or may not result harmfully, but will certainly make a person biased temporarily, or give him, rather, a one-sided view of life. And one finds, after such reading, an adaptation of certain authors in phrase­ ology in one's letters. the only visible means whereby one can observe the influences of solitary perusal or study. For instance, after a course of Bulwer Lytton's books, one becomes inclined to scholastic pedagogy, using big words and adopting a style, somewhat different from the snappy idioms of Bret Harte. For the time being, one, so constituted and situated, becomes an actor unconsciously, imitating or following the freshest impres­ sions, hence the danger of distorted absorption following a partial reading of Dr. Jekyl and Mr. Hyde might have had serious consequences. Single reading of books may be unavoid­ able. and the result instructive, but unless one has a companion to share and discuss the read book with, the real benefit of study and analysis is lacking, and our conceptions arc inclined to be imperfect. Friendship is the antidote of most evils or disturbances. "Whosoever is delighted in solitude is either a wild beast or a god." "Without friends the world is but a wilderness," so quotes and expounds Francis Bacon. "For there is no man that imparteth his joys to his friends, but he joyeth the more, and no man that imparteth his griefs to his friends but he grieveth the less." Being denied the results of personal friendship, there was comfort in simple things. I remember haYing a single geranium plant, and during the long cold sc\'crc winter I put it to bed on the shelf below the table with a good Hudson Bay blanket wrapped all round .. to protect it from freezing, so that I would have some green obJect to look at and care for.

161 In Cassiar, B.C., still in the Company's service, I was one time all alone, my nearest neighbor being 110 miles away at :\lcDames Creek. I had neither dogs nor books, and the log cabin, alongside the :\luddy River, became so lonely that when I baked yeast powder buns, I crumbled some on the floor, so that the mice would come and feed, and rejoice my eyes with the sight of some living thing. Hard experiences for any young boy or person, but the lessons can never be lost. \Ve learnt the true value of making the best of evervthing and appreciating the small things to such a full extL'nt. that in after life we reap an everlasting interest on the youth we invested as principal. by never forgetting what we may have lost in personal comforts, and remembering how well off one should be with the happiness of Health, and the faculty to never overlook or despise the small things, which tend to yield contentment. To illustrate: Twenty years after under­ going the experience with the plant, I visited an orange grove near Pasadena. California, in January, and while it did not excite any comment from those who accompanied me. I picked the oranges off the trees as a boy, and revelled in the joy of Ii ving. receiving full value with measure running over from the I aw of Compensation. Icefields and orange groves in January. great extremes. causing vivid pictures to fill the mind from experience and effect with intense satisfaction and enjoyment, but lost as commonplace on my friends, who remained common· place. because they had no contrast to bring out true and full values. I have never regretted the experiences of Hudson Bay life. because I value today, and every day, all things bright and beautiful in Nature and human nature, and reap a great reward in true enjoyment of sane living. Hear what John ,\kLean, with an experience of Ungava till 183 7, wrote in his "Notes of Twenty-five Years' Service in the Hudson's B~y Company": "The history of my career may ,cn·e as a warning to those who may be disposed to enter the Hudson's Bay Company's service. They may learn that from the m?me~t they embark in the Company's canoes at Lachine, or their ships at Gravesend, they bid adieu to all that civilized m~n most values on earth. They bid adieu to their family and fne~ds probably f

162 years- -what change does not this life exhibit in a much shorter time? They bid adieu to all the comforts and conveniences of civilized life, to vegetate at some desolate solitary post, hundreds of miles, perhaps, from any other human habitation. save the wigwam of the savage; without any society but that of their own thoughts, or of the two or three humble individuals who share their exile. They bid adieu to all the refinement and cultivation of civilized life, not infrequently becoming semi­ barbarians, so altered in habits and sentiments that the\· not only become attached to savage life, but eventually lost all relish for any other." Yet such exile and privations were not confined to Hudson Bay merely. In difficult situations, the pioneers were building up a great country better than they realized, and but for such experiences of the Battles of Life, Canada might not have had the foundation on which she rests so solidly as the result.

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163 CHAPTER XXXIX

George Lindsay's Wedding and Mrs. Spencer's Departure

Anything for a change, so hungering to get away from oneself on the 23rd January, 1883, Joseph Morris (Cree), George McPherson and myself started for York Factory for the mail. \\' e made the trip on snowshoes in eight days, on the last, ,t.1rt ing from camp before 5 a.m. to enable us to make York Factory that night. When I entered the guardroom after being on the trail for 12 hours, I found preparations going forward for a dance, as our guardroom servant George Lindsay had been married to Susannah Taylor, the doctor's maid, that day. It therefore behoved me to get ready for the fray. Mr. Cowie and others provided me with the underwear, shirts, trousers, du:ffies, and the doctor coming from the married quarters, offered the use of his tub for a bath, and provided a coat. We never carried extra clothing, excepting, of course, du:ffies and mocassins, and the brotherhood of the H.B.C. saw to it on our arrival that we shared whatever clothing they had, whether they fitted or not. While the wedding supper was spread and partaken of, I had the luxury of a tub, and arrayed myself in clean garments. Someone's washerwoman would get my soiled clothes, and have them washed and cleaned in a couple of days. Our blankets were washed in a big snowdrift by jumping on them with clean moccasins, till the dirt was pounded out, on evidence of the snow, and they became white as the proverbial "driven snow", woolly soft in texture. Snow is a great cleanser, and with the intense cold, the dry cleaning process results satisfactorily. Although I got my six months mail, the jollification and prospect of a dance after a hike on snowshoes of nearly 200 miles was too alluring, and I hied me to the fray in perfect fit, leaving the l:t~ers unread. The letters would keep for another day after wa1tmg so long, the discipline of self-restraint having overcome the glorious pristine eagerness of first packet days in

164 a measure but a white wedding was too much of a rarity to pass by, so I wore out a pair of moccasins dancing till 6 o'clock next morning, and incidently got rid of an accumulation of previous months' depression, by the return to my old chums and the intoxicating atmosphere of happy faces. After reading my letters and 26 hours' strenuous exercise, I was ready for the old buffalo robes on the iron camp bedstead, and privileged for late breakfast. James Oman and Sam Grey met us at the Eastern woods on our return, with a welcome supply of whale meat for our dogs, so the last day, with divided loads, meant quick travelling, and we arrived at Churchill on our eighth day, Monday, the 12th February. I made a trip to the Fishing Lakes with three teams of dogs and drivers, to bring back the balance of cached lake white fish, and on this trip I saw the largest number of reindeer I ever met, and in fact for many years it was the largest migratory herd at Churchill, and during the years I spent there we were never so favored again. The cause was attributed later to an indiscrimi­ nate slaughter by the Chippewyan Indians and Esquimaux at the crossing place on Egg River, on the Barren Grounds. when for days the animals were speared and shot, till the river ran blood and was blocked with carcasses, the following summer turning the herd back. The remembrance of the disaster instilled the protective instinct in the survivors, similar to the actions of the whales before narrated. Not until I left Churchill in 1889, were there any migratory movements encountered, as the rein­ deer before reaching Egg River wheeled to the North and West again. We suffered accordingly in our reindeer meat supply, and one winter only one deer weighing 45 pounds was killed by the Fort hunters, consequently we were often scratching for a bare living all the time I was at Churchill. But for the venison brought by the Indians and Esquimaux we would have fared worse. On this occasion, however, we passed through hundreds, probably thousands, and so excited did our dogs become that their heavy-laden Esquimaux sleds were not felt, and they raced over the sparsely timbered snow-packed plains at galloping spee_d till, to save them from utter collapse, ,vc had to educate their spirits from the chase, and the foolishn_ess of over-exerti~n. in fruitless anticipation of a meal, by upsettmg the sleds and s1ttmg on the runners till they realized they were anchored, and any

165 extraneous efforts futile excepting to orders. \\' e could h.1w killed an\' number with our shotguns, sitting on the upturned sleds. ,1s they ran around us. but Js \\'e could not take any more on our skds, \\'C only shot one for immediate consumption, as a ch.rngc from fish and ptarmigan. We were fairly stocked at the Fort. a number having been killed closer to the Fort earlier in the winter. \ lr. Sp,·ncer intl·nded sending his wife on a visit to the outside to sec her rclatiws Archdeacon Phair being her brother -also to pbcc their only son Bertie (Robert John) to school. :\ contraption, something like an old prairie schooner. was built on Esquimaux sled runners. and had curved hoops to carry a sheeting covering. which made the interior protected from the intense cold. fierce blasts and observation. When travelling on smooth ice. the wind c.rnght this tall upper structure; it was amusing to sec the car.1\',ln sailing to leeward, hauling the dogs on their stomachs as they had no fulcrum of a snowdrift whereby to make use of their claws and paws. 1\s .\lr. Spencer wanted to have someone to assist Mrs. Spcnca. Bertie and Emma (Dot). the last about a year old, he asked me if I would accompany them to the Factory. I agreed, on the understanding that I would be driven in a cariole, and he consented. I made the stipulation, not so much to avoid the long walk, as for taking advantage of an opportunity to travel as a bourgeoise to learn how it felt. "All is not gold that glitters." The trip lasted five days, and though the longer, brighter days in April made travelling easier than in real winter, the disadvantages and tribulations, and how they were overcome by \\'bite women, delicately nurtured, were manifested in Mrs. Spencer's person in a marked degree. Only years afterwards did I learn what all the bumpings and shaking-up cost her, and but fo~ Adam Collin. a family man with experience, that trip might have had graver consequences. So we pay the meed of approbation, rightfully earned, and due the courageous women of ~~e Huds~n·s Bay Company, who, overshadowed by the pos1t1ons . their hu~bai:ids ?ad to occupy in the foreground, accompanied them m situations proving in their silent assistance a~ p1on._-:r, their God-given excellence and wonderful subjuga­ tion of self.

On arrival at York Factory. .\ 1r,. Spencer was welcomed and made comfortable, till she left up-river by boat for Winni-

166 peg. She had not had many opportunities of seeing any of her white sex during eight years and more at Churchill. Mrs. Winter in 1879, Miss Kirby (Mrs. Mathews) and her maid in 1880, three all told, as far as I know. From 1879 to 1889 I met Mrs. John Spencer, Mrs. Joseph Fortescue, Mrs. G. S. Winter, Mrs. Kirby, Mrs. George Mowat, Miss S. Taylor, Miss Lizzie Porter, Miss Falding (Mrs. Lofthouse) and her maid Alice, Mrs. Crowe, Mrs. Matheson and small John Smith's wife. \lrs. Robert Bell and Mrs. Cuthbert Sinclair were visitors at the Factory one summer. While men could see a shipload of new faces at ship time, and others at various posts in their travels, the women had not the privileges of meeting their own white sex, except on the rarest occasions, as this record testifies. We returned to Churchill on the 21st April, after a quick trip of four days. The usual routine followed, till on 13th July we left for our second Marble Island venture. The 1st August saw us back to Churchill after nineteen days' adventures.

167 CHAPTER XL

Fall

The "Ocean Nymph" had been calling first at Churchill, and then proceeding to the Factory, but this year 1883 she had instructions to reverse order, probably on account of the North prev,1iling winds late in the fall. which made a Northern offing from the L1ctorv for the Strait more difficult and protracted. \Vhatcwr the re~son, the usual early arrival was deferred, and our stock of flour and imported meats showed depletion. On the 24th September, James OmaQ and I started out as a relief expedition, to reach the Factory with the news of our shortages. For days previously Mr. Spencer and I had ascended the rocks behind the Fort at Goose Pond and searched the h\ ·rizon for the ship. We looked for succour with the same expectancy of relief as did Gordon at Khartoum, till the tears came into our eyes from the intensity of exposure to the winds and weather. Flour rations had stopped, and the men and women had to get out and hunt their meals. Mr. Spencer and I filled our stomachs chiefly on cranberries and heather, or perhaps blueberries. The only flour was a small supply hus­ banded for ~,!lie Spencer, the third child, who was delicate and could not exist on meat straight. A little biscuit was placed at each meal on the table for form's sake, but we did not touch it, as the children, Edith, Nellie and Mable, had to have first and last call. One day I was sitting in my cabin when Mr. Spencer entered, having in his hand two small turnips about the size of a pullet's egg, which he had unearthed from his artificial garden. \Vithout a word he handed me one, and we took out our pocket k~i~es_, scraped the skin, as we could not afford to peel and dimmish such valuable sustenance, and consumed them in silence. The repast finished, he heaved a sigh and walked out, and I do not. remember that one word was spoken between us on that occasion, so depressed were we with the outlook. How th.e Chur.chillites stood the strain of uncertainty and starvation with their large families at that time I cannot understand, but

168 to thei~ credit there was never a murmur about the scarcity of food, till strange to say, after the ship's arrival, and full rations were again allotted to them with arrears of fl.our, sugar, etc. Then they gorged and complained. One of the two cows was killed to give James Oman and myself something to eat, and also to keep the Fort going. Our other provisions consisted of a little tea in the corner of a printed cotton handkerchief, and in the other corner were two handsfull of hard biscuit. Even this latter we were to be deprived of. The fresh beef, a few pounds, and ammunition constituted our equipment. Mr. Spencer and I talked over the whole situation, and it was agreed that I should go to the Factory, and govern my actions according to circumstances. If the ship had not arrived, Mr. Fortescue was to be requested to make a cache of provisions on the north side of the Nelson River, before it froze. The Churchillites would haul them from there, the Churchill River freezing much sooner than the Nelson. There was ample ammunition; if the game held out, all would be well. But the uncertainties of a precarious livelihood were dem­ onstrated two days after we left Churchill. First of all, below Knightshill Beacon we saw a wigwam, and making for it in anticipation of a food supply, we found Mrs. Mayham, a Cree squaw, with a badly bitten arm, one of the Indian dogs having done the mischief. The men were away hunting, she had not much to eat, and nothing wherewith to attempt healing the festering bites, so we handed over our little supply of biscuit in toto, for the purpose of making poultices, and it is pleasing to remember that our hard tack, softened, worked salvation. About midday we stopped for lunch at the Eastern Creeks. The day was simply beautiful, a clear sunlit sky, not a cloud, and we were congratulating ourselves on our good fortune. I shot a Jack fish in the creek, and we had this for a meal, the fresh meat having been disposed of. Though the water was shallow, only one pellet mark was discernible on the fish's_j~w, showing that concussion had been the means of our obtammg the fish, also a slanting shot. We sat under a little clump of willows and roasted our fish on a stick. We could see the Eastern woods in the distance, but where we were the ground with willow-fringed bushes, was cut up by creeks and sloughs. These sloughs and ponds extend all the way acros~ Cape Churchill, and if one is not thoroughly acquamted with the route or maze, one can readily wander all day and then find

169 himself behind his starting point in the evening, or get lost, the depth of water in the sloughs prohibiting taking a straight course. The Cape crossing rL'presents a peat bog as much as anything. Finishing our meal, we were surprised with the actions of the geese. Band after band fle\\' overhead in hundreds, coming apparently from nowhere except the North, screaming and calling, as if the devil was after them. They flew so close to us that Jamie could not resist a shot, and bowled over a fat fellow. who fell with a squash. Going to pick it up, say forty or fifty vards a\\'.1\'. he suddenly disappeared in a snowstorm. I ran tmords him, shouted, and we regained our little clump of willows. and sought shelter under my little oilskin tarpaulin. One of the trawllers generally carried a small raw linseed-treated oilskin to spread on the swampy or wet ground, where tree branches were absent. and no protection from damp could otherwise be had. We sat under its shelter for an hour or more, and I never saw a greater change in such a short time in my life's experience. There had not been a cloud in the sky when we \\'ere eating. Tlw sun was shining gloriously, but the geese had proved the Indian saying "As wise as a goose" by smelling the coming snowstorm, and had hiked for all they were worth fur a Southern clime. When the snow ceased, L'vcry goose had gone. and we stood up ankle-deep in snow. Jamie had plucked the goose. and made a ball of the inside fat which froze, and that kept us f.rom starving in the following days. Always pro­ vided with Esquimaux sealskin boots we were prepared, and off \\'e set to cross the Cape. In the evening we reached the coast- 1ine. and had the good fortune to shoot five teal ducks at one shot, so we fared well at supper. Expecting to get game as we travelled Southward, we ate our goose and ducks without stint, but they did not go really far, as we had healthy appetites, no bread or anything else as auxiliaries or substitutes. The snow made walking unpleasant, the wind was cold, and our camps on bare limestone ridges. \Ve saw a deer on our fifth day out. By this time our rations were reduced to a bullet of raw frozen goose grease or fat, which we placed in our mouths and sucked. The wind was off shore, the tide was well in, and the coast bank rather high at this place ( near Broad River) . The deer was travelling Northwards along the coast beach, and would pass close beneath us, so we lay down in the snowdrift and made preparations to get plentiful provender. Jamie had a single-

170 barrelled old percussion cap gun and I had my double-barrelled breech loader. Jamie told me to put a ball in my gun, and I told him No. 1 shot would be more effective at the distance. He insisted, however, and I gave in with the result that the deer smelt us and jumped; I fired two bullets over his back and Jamie missed also. So close was the deer that I could see the whites of his eyes, but a snowbank. high elevation, and our nervousness to get food all combined in the deer making his escape with a parting' bullet No. 12 accelerating its speed. To say we were weak is putting it mildly. We were wilted, and only a piece of goose fat sustained us. That evening we shot a polar bear, who took to the roaring surf and made for ~ea and safety. On our seventh day (no Decameron tale this) we shot two sandpipers. How the poor little things had existed on the snow-covered ground and frozen ponds and had not cleared out is a mystery to this day. But small as they were, they provided supper for us anyway. Our goose fat had gone, and while the sandpipers denuded of their feathers did not appear larger than an egg each, we did not clean the entrails, but boiled the little birds as they were and ate them, beaks, legs and entrails, and then we could have done with more. That evening we felt quite refreshed, and as tomorrow would be the 1st October, we would make Stony River and get a feed of salt geese, at the lowest calculation on food anticipations. So we lay down on the snow-covered ridge with a drift log for a windbreak and slept in our good 3 ,Vi point Hudson's Bay blankets. On reaching Stony River we saw the masts of the coast boat. and knew Swanson had waited for us. We found the boat frozen in. and Swanson swearing quite eloquently at the delay. However. he had obeyed orders, and so we proceeded to wait a chance to escape. The Indians were well provided with venison. dry. fresh, smoked, marrow fat and bones, hearts, tongues, fresh frozen geese, ducks and ptarmigan. Jamie and I filled up, having plenty of spare room, after our eight days tramp. The time we took is indicative of the difficulties of our travels, as eight days from Churchill to York Factory along the coast was considered a long trip. The best news was that a couple of days earlier Swanson had seen the ship heading for the North, so we all felt cheered. When the stream tides rose, we smashed a way for our well-laden coast boat to the sea. and after being again frozen

171 in at Sam's Creek for a night, we crossed the Nelson and ascended the Hayes River to the Factory, where luxuries of soap and baths awaited us with the usual genuine hospitality. John George r-.lowat had been added to the office staff. He was a son of .\lr. George J\lowat, in charge of Severn Post, and had been educated at St. John's College, Winnipeg. John G. was a fine upstanding fellow and we became comp;;inions in our sojournings until I left the district.

172 LL.l z :J r 0.. LL.l z TH E OCE AN NYMPH AT YORK FA CTORY CHAPTER XLI

The Wintering of the "Ocean Nymph"

My old notebooks contain many interesting-at least to me-details of that great event. While this first news from Churchill since I left relieved our minds temporarily of doubt of the ship's arrival, the problem of taking care of such a large increase to Mr. Spencer's establishment, or family, was a serious one, the ship's supplies not being sufficient. In former years, Bay ships were rationed with the possibilities of having to spend a winter in the country, or in case of disaster and detention elsewhere. Owing, however, to the successful navigation for years past, and to the experience and ability of their captains, brought up in this trade, the sense of this security had been mitigated, with the result that only enough for the voyage was provided. Mr. Fortescue had therefore to relieve the situation, and with the depot well stocked, transportation of the greater part of the crew had to be arranged, and so he and I worked out a schedule, whereby the Factory dog-teams would take supplies to Owl River, meet the Churchill dog-drivers with the sailors and exchange loads. Five such main trips were decided on, outside the regular packet service, and such was the perfect­ ness of foresight and knowledge, favored by the weather, that the teams arrived at their destination on schedule, and not an hour was lost waiting. As Morris and Old Dick had hauled their own toboggans, a team of dogs was provided to take us back, and on the 8th, Saturday, my record read thus: "Started while the stars were still shining. Track pretty fair to North (Nelson) River, and then splendid all the way across the Flamboro Head. Passed round the head of open water. Had breakfast at 9 a.m., on the North side, and then James Isaacs (Cree Indian) left us. At noon met the men from Churchill. Did not stay long with them after giving them tea. Met Jimboy (Cree) at the foot of the high banks, and as we had changed dogs with the Churchill party. agreed t~ camp and give them a spell." Mr. Spencer had taken the earliest oppor-

173 ttinitv to reduce the number of mouths he had to feed, and this \\·as the vanguard of the sailors, with experienced dog drivers. We plugged along till the l 2th, when we crossed the Big Plain, into camp at 6 p.m .. hungry and cold. as half w.1y across the w,'athL'r and wind changed, .rnd just as we reached 5 mile Scrubs it became d.1rk and rather coldish. Could not sec Broad River \\' oods until \,·ithin l 00 yards of them. Bedded the dogs. my sh.1r,' of thL' work. and made te,1. a preliminary offset to the making of a good camp. "I "l,th. Thursday. Euchered: About 9 last night it began t,1 blow. and continued all day. WokL' and had .1 pot of tc,1. ,rnd then sent Joseph out to the edge of Salmon Creek Plain to make observations. Came back with the disagreeable news that we cannot go on. as the snow was drifting too thickly. Had bliiled bacon for l1rl·,1kfast. Joseph and Dick in lnrl·noon (in lee side of the woods) hunting ptarmigan. Returned with 15. eight of which went to the dogs. an.cl the remaining seven for the mess. Have passed ,1 most miserable day. 11th. Woke between 2 and 3 .1.m .. rather cold and put on a fire. the moon shining on my slL·cping companions. Stood alongside the fire thinking of p,l\l L'Wnh. then when warmed, to bed. r\woke at 4.30. ''"'~,,! from underneath the blankets, saw fire was out. so asked Joseph the time to see if he was awake. He told me, and then I bade him make a fire, my object in speaking to him. Got up finallv at half past seven. had a cup of tea. and then sent Joseph to the edge of the Plain. Report. drifting. thick. cold and blowing. so I remained in camp for an hour or two longer. ;\sked him if we would try it. At first rather doubtful. but wntured to trv for Salmon Creek. All hands put on double capots. cravat<;. etc .. to face the inevitable nine miles. Dogs went splendidly and kept me running. Bitterly cold crossing. and had we gone slowly we would have been all frozen, as it was I came off with a frozen chin, cheek and between the eyes. Thank God. that beastly plain is once more at the rear. Too cold to go farth.:r. so camped at Salmon Creek." .. I 5th. _Saturday. Wakened by the wind howling through the trees, lifted the corner of my blanket, saw the fire nearly out, so.lay_ down again in such a position that my head annoyed Joseph s nbs, and he got up and rebuilt the fire. When in full blaze \,·e three sat alongside and discussed pemmican, cake and t.:.1 altho' only S o'clock. After a pipe turned in again for a snooze. :\11 hands up at daybreak. Cannot proceed. Blowing

174 and drifting too hard along the ground, and as cold as the moon. Dick off after ptarmigan, and Joseph cutting wood. I tried the latter, but had to make for the fire or else freeze. Dick back with 8 birds. and then Joseph took the gun and Dick the axe. while I remained in camp. Ptarmigan and bacon for dinner. and a little oatmeal added to the 'boyou' (bouillon) made an excellent substitute for soup. Joseph back a little before sunset with l 1. making a total today of twenty-one ptarmigan. Gave the dogs their share, and propose keeping the remainder to replenish the larder. Ptarmigan very fat. as Joseph says: 'All the same as ducks'. I never saw ptarmigan in such prime condi­ tion, and never afterwards. If they were always so they would be palatable. Have smoked more today than usual to while away the time. Feelings charitable at present, although there is a great prospect of remaining here tomorrow yet, on account of the ground drift and wind. Supper between 10-11 p.m. "Sunday, 16th. Up at daybreak and ate remainder of last night's supper with additional tea and cake. A pipe and to bed we go. In the Churchill vernacular we are again 'lantered' for today. Blowing and drifting with renewed vigour, one comfort it cannot last forever. Dry wood beginning to get scarce. Tired of ptarmigan and bacon, so had some deersmeat pemmican. Pipe for dessert, and thinking all afternoon, tossing about the camp ( we had to re brush the flooring to feel warmer. the needles having come off the first cut pine branches )-trying to make myself comfortable as far as the circumstances of the situation can conduce to comfort. Old Dick off hunting. Shot 5 ptarmi­ gan. Joseph making cakes. Wind moderated towards evening. so have prospect of getting off tomorrow. Monday, 17th. Up before daybreak and had a pot of tea. Afterwards sat alongside the fire with blanket and a pipe a la Indian. Breakfast as day sky rises, and preparations for a start at sunrise. \V rapped myself up so warmly that my nose began to bleed. Stopped after snow application. Passed through Salmon Creek woods and faced the plain. Cold, cursedly cold. Today's casualties: old Dick frozen on the chin and on right side of his mouth. Joseph. thumb. right hand and back of his left. cheek doubtful. G. S. McTavish, cheek doubtful. \\' e saved our noses by the greatest drastic attention and good luck. 18th, Tuesday. ~ut up in the Eastern Woods about 2 p.m. for the day. Blo.~mg too hard, besides which the dogs are not in the best cond1t10n. The poor brutes have done marvellously well so far. 19th. Wednesday. Reached Churchill."

175 \ h first duty, after the excitement of our arrival was over. and I had time w admire the ingenuity with which Mr. Spencer had housed the crew of the "Nymph", was to take stock of the provisions and calculate supplies. Every ,waibble nook had been taken adnnt.1gc of. every bit of wood to make partitions and divisions between the men's and the sailors' quarters had been scrupulously sequestered. Partitions in Mr. Spencer's own house pro\'ided quarters for George and Mrs. Lindsay, Captain Hawse, \ lr. 1\. Gulland. first mate, and Alfred Geaussant, the second mate, agl'd 22. Mrs. Spencer being away with two of her children simplified matters. and they had all settled down to a happy family existence. The steward, Fred Lemon, and the cook. Deusberry, had a cubicle, dark as Erebus, in the men's quarters. I had more room individually in my little abode than an,. of them. Here is the Inventory of Provisions at Churchill on 11st December. 1883: Ship St ores: 3 2 casks flour (19 6 lbs. each). 3 chests Congou Tea. CJ bags Brown Sugar. 2 casks Oatmeal. I cask Pease. 2 casks Pork. Fort: 2 3 cask Pease. 15 ;'i bbls. Flour. 1 ~ cask Oatmeal. I cask 2nd Biscuit #28, Ys cask 3rd Biscuit #38. 1 Yi bbls. Pork. 1 bag Brown Sugar, 12 ~ lbs. Loaf Sugar. 4 chests Tea. 2 casks crash sugar ( 3 5 5 lbs. left). . Not an immense amount to work on till next shiptime eight months away, but with help from York Factory, country produce, and Providence we won out.

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176 CHAPTER XLII

A Blade of Grass Food for Critics

When the "Nymph" had been put into winter quarters at Cockles Point, and there was sufficient snow on the ground to enable the hunter to follow ptarmigan tracks, a mania possessed the sailors to purchase guns, both single and double-barrelled. After the day's sport, the evening spent in cleaning the weapons. One night one of the sailors started to extinguish a candle by the mere explosion of a percussion cap. It became quite common till old Deus berry, the ship's cook, got shot. It happened thus: There being no candle at hand, the steward of the vessel asked Deusberry to hold a lighted wax match for him to extinguish. The gun contained a few grains of powder, and a pellet or two of shot, unknown to Lemon, penetrated the old man's hand. That ended the experiments. At Christmas time everyone about the place was enjoying the dances in relays at Mr. Spencer's, excepting Deusberry, whose hand was still in a sling. I missed him, left the dance and went into his stuffy dark cubicle. I asked him to join the fun, but he declined with thanks. Pressing him for a reason, he said he was thinking of his old wife at home, who did not know if he were dead or alive, and of his children. "I couldn't bear to see everybody around me happy when I know I will never see the end of this dreary winter." The tears were in his eyes, and he had given up hope of ever seeing his family again. I stayed with the old man, brought him a little snack to eat. with a glass of sugar beer, and tried to cheer him up, but with little success. His hand remained bad and scurvy attacked him. He became listless, and the months passed slowly on, leaving him weaker and more despondent. As the Spring days were at last making an impression on our icebound region, he would come out of his !oom ~urin? ~he afternoon, and walk on the platform, everyone m passir:ig gi.vmg the old man a friendly greeting. The d0<:tor had paid hii:n a visit from the Factory with the transportation teams, but with-

177 ,,ut beneficial results. It ,os about the beginning of :\by, and unless something occurred to break rhe melancholy let-me-die feclina thL' old man had. it looked as if WL' would have to bury him beforl'"' long. I was coming down from breakfast some three weeks later, when I was met by old Deusberry, who took my arm and asked me to come with him to the front gate. There was a repressed look on his bee I had not s'..'en before, and what it meant I (cllild not surmise. \\' e walked to the end of the platform or sidewalk and stopped. He asked me if I could see anything particu1.,r around me. I looked but could discern nothing but the usual snow and ice. He began to chuckle quietly at first. and then burst into a loud exultant cry: "Look here. Sir, look ,1l ,·,)ur t ed." 1 looked ,rnd from bL'l \\'een two slab sawn planks of the platform I saw a blade of new gr.1ss. \Vhat kindness. medicine and ewry human c.ue had failed to do. this blade of :,.;rass paf ormed the miracle of restoring Hope to a despairing soul on t hL· brink of the gr,1,·e. and from that day Deusberrv w.1tched it :,.;row. and grew anew with it. Oh. ,·ou \\'ho deride sentiment as senile mawkish verbosity. as inapplicable to a practical wastefully destructive age, cannot you discern the immense force. which entering the parched heart. through its influence c.rn save body and soul. Trample sentiment undertoot like grass. to your regeneration it will cover a multi­ tude of shortcomings and keep the grave of your aforetime superiorities grl·,·n in grateful remembrance that they are so buried. You and I cannot make a blade of grass. that is the sole work of the Creator, but in humble imitation, we can make the despondent and weary. almost hopeless. soul revive and bloom with sentiment. The man who thinks never depreciates the magnitude of the smallest exhibition of the Divine Architect's Power and ,upn1

* Scotland is the land of Sentiment · and her battle cry 1s· "Scot Jan d f or E ver. "

178 CHAPTER XLIII

Spring and Summer, 1884 Death of Spanish

from January It will be noted that I remained at the Factory had proceeded t? April. The transferring of men and provisions relieved at Churchill. like clockwork, and the congestion had been in the still frozen On the 22nd June I crossed above the ice of one-arm lower reaches of the river with David Dick-son accounts had been Dick-and Simpson Collin. The year's mail on my back closed on the 31st May, and I carried the had asked me what along the coast. Before leaving Mr. Gulland zero, snow, etc. other things we had besides 40 degrees below the veil. "Well." he I told him we had mosquitoes and took mosquitoes, as I have said, "you can't teach me anything about legs and body from been in Rangoon and bear the scars on my been in Rangoon. their onslaughts." I replied that I had never as being perfect but I could vouch for our own mosquitoes a pound of tobacco artists of great penetration, and I wagered He had scouted this he would take the veil before he sailed. frighten him. effeminate protection as a traveller's tale to Rivcr with On the 8th July we sailed into the Churchill the Marble Island the Dolphin, the newly-built addition to and lo! the "Ocean fleet, after 3 7 hours from the Factory, life on board. Nymph" was in the stream again with bustling a figure enveloped As we passed her counter, I looked up and saw and recognizing the in green cotton gauze from head to waist, Rangoon mosqui­ mate's tall figure, I yelled out: "How about him off the tobacco, toes?" The reply was unprintable, and I let be burnt. as he declared the country was only fit to off for The 17th saw the "Laperouse" and "Dolphin" crew from the Fac­ Marble Island. The "Dolphin" had a Cree well till we passed tory, and I had my old reliables. All went to the North, being Esquimaux Point. One Sunday, farther and shot some ducks. becalmed, we went ashore in the afternoon of his peculiar- Spanish, who had been showing an exaggeration

179 ities in ren:rsing things, letting loose the tack instead of the halyards, etc., during the day, seemed rather quiet as he plucked the ducks for supper. He even washed himself and put on clean underwear, rather an unusual performance, somehow eliciting no comment from us. We retired to our little cabin in the "Laper­ ouse··. I in the starboard, \Vastesecoot in the port bunks, George Oman and Spanish on the floor. Early next morning Wastescoot woke me with the words "Spanish is dead". He then went out. George Oman got up from under the same blankets which co\·ered him and Spanish, and also went outside. As we had an expression in ··camping" when a man would not get up to light the fire: "Oh, lc.n-e him alone, he is dead," I thought Wastescoot was joking in like manner, and called Spanish to get up. Rl·cl·i\·ing no response, I leaned out of my bunk, took hold of his exposed arm, raised it and let it drop. I then realized that some­ thing serious was the matter, got up and examined the body. He had died quiet! y in his sleep, so silently that George Oman had not been disturbed alongside him. I immediately called the Cree Indians from the "Dolphin", anchored close to us, to come on board and satisfy themselves as to Spanish's demise from natural l,1Uses. Poor Spanish's uncertainty of actions during the last couple of days was now explained, he was not well. The cause of d.?ath can be attributed to heart failure, the strenuous work of dog driving and tripping having worn him out at last. He must have had a premonition of his passing, as witness his toilet the previous evening. \Ve had no lumber in quantity on board, excepting gun cases. so we took the largest-the length of the long flintlock guns standing us in good stead this time-and made a serviceable coffin. H,H"i~g prepared the remains, and wrapped it up rever­ rn.tly, we raised the anchors and sailed towards a promontory, with a bay, to th~ :C-:orth, <:>n Digby Island I think, formed by ~other rocky pomt. Commg to. anchor, a litt~e South of the · ?rt~ern ~omt, I sent the Esquimaux ashore in their kayaks with ice chisels, \vherewith to dig a grave among the gravel and s~ones, as we had no other tools for digging, and when they signalled all was ready, we placed the coffin in the 16-foot boat ~nd lande~. \Ve carri~d it up the inclined shore and deposited 1t on th~ ndge. _alongside the grave, while I commenced to read the bunal _serv.1ce from the Prayer Book, most of the Crees un~crsta1:dmg It. rHappening to raise my eyes for a moment­ \\' as ~acmg the ~~rth-1 saw an immense icefield just passing t e pomt and headmg for our abandoned boats. We dropped

180 the service and ran to our boats and kayaks, rowing and paddling frantically, till we reached the "Laperouse" and "Dolphin". The ice was already touching the chains as we hauled up our anchors. Sails had been set as soon as the anchors had been broken from the ground, and we turned South to get past the promontory on which the coffin lay, so as to escape, but the ice travelling at a quicker rate than one could imagine with the strong current, overran and blocked us in. To save ourselves from being thrust broadside on the rocky shore, I ordered the boats brought head to the ice, lowered the sails, got out our poles, and were forced ashore stern first. We had unshipped the rudders, and the boats being double-enders we escaped thus a broadside smash. Small icebergs grounded round and in front of us, fortunately acting as a breakwater against other heavier bergs, the lighter pan floes packing us in solid. An examination showed no damage, thanks to the good workmanship of old Orkney boat-builders and the miracle of good luck. We waited till the tide began to fall and no further danger threatened, then walking and crawling over the stranded ice, we returned to the grave and deposited our brother "Spanish" into his resting place. The balance of the day we attacked icebergs and ice pans with ice chisels, and broke them, so that the boats would float readily with the incoming tide in the evening. When the tide made we poled our way through the channels thus formed, and with sails set, struck out to sea, and beyond the track of shore ice. The next year I planted a wooden cross, which I had made and inscribed myself during the winter, on the point, this time in a gale of wind and rain, to the memory of a faithful friend.

181 CHAPTER XLIV

Arrival of "Neptune'' with the H.B. Expedition and "Cam Owen"

The first stc,1mer to arrive in Hudson Bay and enter Churchill River on the 6th September, 1884, was the "S.S. '.'\:q1lum·", commanded by Lieutenant Andrew Gordon, ex-naval officer of the British Navy, and deputy to Mr. Carpmael of the \ktcorological Service of Canada-Captain William Sopp acted as ice na\·igalor and expert. The Dominion Government had decided to make an examination of the Hudson and Davis Straits, to ascertain how long they were free from ice and navigable during the year, so six stations were to be established: Skynner·s Cove; Nackvack, Labrador; Port Burwell, inside C1pc Chidley: Port Laperriere, on the South near Cape Wos­ tcnbome; Ashe Inlet, North Bluff; Stupart's Bay, Cape Prince of \\' ales. These places were called after the observers in charge, \lcssrs. Wm. Skynner, H. W. Burwell, W. A. Ashe, R. F. Stup,1rt (now Sir. and Director of the Meteorological Service), C \'. de Boucherville, and A. Laperriere. Charles R. Tuttle was slated for Churchill. and H. T. Bennett was not yet placed. \V. \\'. Fox, correspondent for the "Mail", was photographer, and Dr. Robert Bell, geologist and medical officer. The object for calling at Churchill was primarily to get a supply of winter clothing for the men, such as moccasins, etc. Captain John J. Barry of Harbour Grace was first officer. About the 3rd August the Rev. Joseph Lofthouse, walking along the coast from York Factory, reached Churchill to meet his fiancee expected by the H.B. Company's ship. He had been appointed by Bishop Harden as missionary to the Esquimaux, and after learning the language at Little Whale River, came to York Factory in 1882, where he assisted the Rev. G. S. Winter pending arrangements for his permanent settlement at Churchill. In February, 1883, he and Dr. Mathews visited his future homesite, remaining a month or so before returning to the Factory.

182 The 6th September, 1884, was a red-letter day when the Neptune, piloted in the entrance by Dr. Bell, anchored in the Churchill River. We met her coming in and welcomed the new faces we saw, as a blessed relief from our own. For three days we revelled in a companionship and intercourse, which starved souls could only understand in its entirety. Lieut. Gordon was the personification of geniality, and everyone vied in making time pass pleasantly. C. R. Tuttle in his book gives a would-be humorous account. in very bad taste, of a Sunday visit to the Fort, with the Rev. J. Lofthouse as the butt of his superiority. He pictured Mr. Lofthouse as never having seen his fiancee, and added enlarged frills from his newspaper imagination as to the courtship and agreement by paper methods only. "Under these circumstances the Rev. Mr. Lofthouse exchanged photographs. through friends in the old country with a young lady he had never seen, but of whom he knew something by hearsay. The courtship, the proposal. the acceptance, and the whole business had been completed in the narrow scope of two letters," etc. etc. There is not one word of truth in the narrative as regards Miss Falding and Mr. Lofthouse. They were personal friends in the old country, and I simply go on record from a real and not suppositive understanding of the truth. I made the friendship of Messrs. Skynner and Laperriere. and the other observers having been left at their respective stations. In 18 8 9. I met Mr. Ashe. in charge of the Meteor­ ological Observatory at Quebec, Mr. Skynner at Port Credit, Ontario, and for many years I\1r. H. M. Burwell, who came to Vancou \'Cr short I y after the fire there of 18 8 6; he died on 30th July, 192 5. Mr. Stu part I also met at the Toronto Observatory. Mr. Tuttle was assigned for Churchill, but the bleak shores and the long winter ahead did not appeal to him, as it did to the Rev. Joseph Lofthouse. and he flunked his job. The Rev. Joseph stayed with his for 20 years, and became Bishop of Keewatin in 1901. Mr. Spencer was initiated therefore by Lieut. Gordon into the reading of the barometer, thermometers, anemometer, etc., and the instruments were installed in proper places. We got our correct time from observations carried out by Captain Hawes during the preceding winter. and the brass nail heads may yet be in the floor of the manager's house, where the gnomon (the side of the front window) cast its shadow from the sun, a slight cut between the two nails aiding accuracy. We were

183 nc\·er far out in this crude but simple method of computing time. checking up with the annual ships' chronometers. As we newr got an almanac till ship time, generall~ September, ! used to work out the moon's phases from the rule m my old Epitome, so we managed well on the whole. with homemade calendars. Captain and I surveyed the Churchill River before I left for \ Lubic Island. with a measured base from a point of rocks to Cockles Point. and by sextant triangulation thereafter. I g,we Lieut. Gordon my copy on this occasion, and still have a tracing. \ lr. Fortescue, going on furlough to England, desired my presence :it York Factory to act as second and assist his successor. The opportunity therefore offered by the "Neptune" as a means of speedy transportation was seized upon, and I gladly accepted Lieut. Gordon's further kindness, agreeing to act as pilot when approaching the Hayes River. We left on the 9th, and Lieut. Gordon woke we early on the 11th, as they were nearing land. Immediately I saw the "Neptune" was too far in the channel. She \\'as supposedly making for the "5 fathom Hole" marked on the chart, which did not now exist, so I told Lieut. Gordon to put about and get further out. In turning, the steamer t,1uclml the shoal or submerged bank to the North of the channel. but as it was only mud and sand with no rocks there WJ\ no damage from the slight impact. Had the vessel's speed been greater at time of turning, the touching would have been avoided. Lieut. Gordon's objective in visiting the Factory was to complete his purchases of suitable winter clothing for his str.1it observers, and this was accomplished satisfactorily. Leaving me at the Factory, the "Neptune" sailed on the 12th. Before the "Cam Owen", brig, arrived with the Rev. Joseph Lofthouse from Churchill, and without Miss Falding, who had remained in England for lack of suitable accommodation at the time, to her intended's great disappointment, we had time to observe and size up our new officer, who had come from Lake Huron to supersede :v1r. Fortescue. Cowie and I came to the conclusion that the future did not promise as cordial relations as under our old Chief Factor, so to protect our past year of service, we asked Mr. Fortescue for our written characters. He said it was most unusual, but nevertheless gave us one each. Mine reads as follows:

184 York Factory, 27th September, 1884. Mr. G~orge S. McTavish has served the Hudson's Bay Company m the capacity of Apprentice Clerk for five years, and m his second contract in the capacity of clerk for a portion of a yea~, in t.he. district. und~r. my charge, and I have great pleasure m testifying to his ability and energy in all the situa­ tions in which he has been placed, and further, that he has served the Company with fidelity in the past, and with promise of talent and energy in the future. Sgd. J. Fortescue, Chief Factor. Time justified our forethought and precautions. This was the only character I had to ask for. Our reason for the application was not based so much on anything that had occurred to us personally but from remarks made at the mess table, as to what a certain party would do when he got full control. Mr. Fortescue took no notice of such bad taste, to say the least of it, but our loyalty to a perfect gentleman and friend was up in arms. Before Mr. Fortescue left we had an opportunity to let him know that we resented the upstart treatment which had been accorded him, and he acknowledged that it hurt a little, but he was old enough to forgive ignorance of good breeding knowing he had tried to do his duty. I had not long to wait till I got an. intimation of what to expect from our new lord and master, who had the most exalted opinion of himself and his position. And if I could avoid its recital I would do so, but there are exceptions to every rule, and this ruler proved to be that exception to worthy and esteemed superiors. Life was not all "beer and skittles" with us in isolation, and unfortunately men so situated brooded over petty injustices till they assumed too big proportions for want of a larger environment, to work off the spleen which settled on our stomachs. As I said before, Mr. Fortescue had intended me to assume the post of "second", and during the "Cam Owen's" stay, I supervised the unloading and loading of cargo, and for a week had only time to eat my meals, as I was up early and worked as long as I could see, to expedite the ship's departure before ice formed. I pass over the insidious slurs and inuendos Cowie, ~o~at and myself were subjected to. He was an adept at prevar~cat1on, and was one of the most difficult men I ever met to arnve at a just conclusion with. sidestepping with genius every issue of

185 ill-will he started. He tried to set everyone against e,1ch other with a plausibilit \' positively diabolical. and c\'cn when I went in to see him and haw it out, red hot with decision, I came out so utterly decei\·cd and subdued by his professions of disinter ested \·irtuc, pathetic grief at any doubt of his good intrntions. that on!\' the outside atmosphere and disconnection from his presence n'\·iwd me. and warranted mi being kicked as an ass. His first pr,•J'('sition made. when Messrs. Cowie ,1nd :Vlowat were seeing the ··cam Owen" out of the river, was in the natur,' of a bribe of adnnccment. which I absolutely refused t,) sanction, because it would have been at the expense of others more descn·ing and entitled to recognition of their servicL''i than myself. and from that day till I left in 1889, I was on guard continually. and all attempts to trap me failed. I was not afraid personally of the outcome, all those years I was in the district, but I did resent any impositions on others, absent or othawisc. which possibly did not work to my advantage, when one considers that the officer in charge of a district has means to belittle persons under him, if he is built that way, by fiduciary correspondence with the Commissioner in Winnipeg. So when Cowie and I obtained characters from the genuine type of officer and gentleman, represented by Chief Factor Joseph For­ t,'scue, we were not indifferent or amiss in precaution as to the danger we would have to circumvent in a person altogether different in character. \\'hrn the "Cam Owen" under Captain Main, a sturdy seadog. sailed, she carried away Mr. and Mrs. Fortescue, their children \:clly. Gertrude (in Victoria, B.C., 1928), and Charlie, also the Rev. G. S. Winter and his wife bound for England on furlough, with little "Dot" Spencer. While we corresponded in after years, I never saw my dear old master and friend again. He entered the service in 1852, was made Factor in 1872, and Chief Factor 1879. He retired in 1892 and died 15th June. 1899, at Kingston, Ontario, where he had his home. 1:'he officer in charge placed Mr. George Mowat, who had been_m charge of Se~ern Post for some years, in the trading room. sendmg George Grieve to replace him. Mr. Mowat was well advanced in years, and his son John George Mowat was in the guardroom, as apprentice clerk with Cowie, and myself as supernumary.

186 CHAPTER XLV

Winter Again at the Factory

Our doubts of what the future was to be under the new management became confirmed. Gone was the old reliance and feeling of coi:ifidence. We had to watch our every step and endeavour to mterpret what was behind every move, so that we would not be caught napping. by seeming goodwill. The exaggerated display of personal importance in our new chief­ this was his first charge of a district-was in contrast to the unassuming dignity of his experienced predecessor. who exem­ plified his understanding of official and private relationship in a lone land, according to the best traditions of the ancient and honorable Company. Old Mr. Mowat, nearing his dotage. was used as a catspaw, and while he was told to refuse Indians credit and maintain his authority, the Indian would only have to go to the Head, and get what he wanted. By this method of duplicity, the Head thought he would gain the goodwill of the Indians. He failed in this, as in most things. and the final upshot was that the Indians wrote the Commissioner with the Winter packet of 1887/8, and stated their grievances against him, an act I imagine unique in the history of the Company. We kept to ourselves in the guardroom. and did our work, and because no fault could be found with us on this score, the petty tyranny of misunderstood authority was always more or less apparent, but in such a skilful manner that rendered rebellion impossible. The greatest proof of ability in oneself is to realize and recognize the great importance of ability in others. without any petty fears of being ousted from one's position. from the aid and development freely afforded juniors. Our Chief could not rise to such a height unfortunately. Christmas time was a little different from my first experi­ ences. A wave of drastic economy in cutting down the staff and expenses was being practised, even to the cutting off of o~r Christmas allowances of wine. We, Cowie and I. succeeded m having it continued. but that was the last time the old custom

187 prl'nikd. Shorth· after the Nl'w Y ~ar the Indian hunters killed some deer in the Yicinity of Fox River towards Oxford House, and to gL't relief f,)r .1 short time I accompanied Jack Stevenson, Alick Finl.wson .1nd Donald \ lcLeod to bring the venison in. \\Tc found o·ut too late that our dog rations of oatmeal and river whitl' fish had been cut in half by our economist chief, who, having lived on the frontier, had no experience of Northern dog driYing or the necessitous hard work entailed. I had been loaned a team~ of f,)ur n)ung dogs by an Indian from the North Lakes. whose furs I had brought in earlier. We had an awful time. The snow was deep in the woods, and we had to collect the d,,·r from scattered caches all over the country, making our own trails. till we completed our loads. The weather was cuttingly cold, the wind driving thro' our clothes and nearly freezing the marrow in our bones. The dogs began to play out for lack of nourishment, and the last three or four days on the trail were hc.utbreaking and backbreaking. The poor brutes, after being fed at night. would howl from unsatisfied hunger, and in the daytime WI.' had to keep Jack's and my team going or else the dogs would topple owr if we stopped. The poor dogs lwcame so ravenous that when we stopped for a meal of sorts, they tried to eat each other's harness, and when t, )() I a tc we decided to use some of the frozen venison on our sleds to feed them, found out that some were then too weak t,1 b,·rh·nt. The l.1\t days Jack carried one of his dogs on his shoulders, while helping the others with a stick, pushing behind. I had a dog on my sled and also pushed. Finally we reached the Fort. L1t,· in the evening of the twelfth day-two days overdue -to find a rel icf expedition had been organized to leave the following morning to search for us. When we were discovered on the trail willing hands helped our dogs and we stumbled into th,· F.1cton·. pretty well all in. I could not straighten myself when I entered the guardroom without putting my dog whip handle across my back and under my arms, so stiff had I become from hauling, bending, and pushing with the butt of a stick against the breast, and my chest was also sore. I had a heart-to­ heart talk with th: chief the next morning on the subject of the dog treatment which bore results. Four dogs died, and he had also to recompense the Indian from whom the team I drove had bee_n borrowed for damages. The next trippers had increased rc,t1ons, and made t?e same trip in eight days, having the advantage of our trails. So ended one of the hardest trips I e\·er made. \\' e should have sacrificed our loads of venison

188 earlier. but the pursuance of the tradition of bringing our loads home intact, combined with the fear of remarks, which assuredly would have been made on such unwarranted procedure, over­ ruled our judgment of the dogs' ability, and we trusted to pull through with our own body-wracking assistance. When the packet arrived from Churchill in April I was quite ready to return to Churchill and resume my duties there. The atmosphere at the Factory had become charged with distrust, and a departure from it was welcomed. Saturday, the 25th April. found me once more installed in my little cabin.

189 CHAPTER XL VI

Captain Borden - Bucks Cold Ice

On i\lond.w, June 22nd, 1885, James Wastesecoot, who had bl',llme my right-band man on sc.:1 and land travelling, and I, st.Ht,,,: with the packet and the ye.u's accounts for the Fact,,n·. walking along the coast, hunting our way as usual. Before leaving the Factory we tested the sailing capabilities ,,t the new boat the "Flor.1", and the chiefs accompanied us, with Cowie as stl'er\man, and one or t \\'() other guests. on the trial trip outside the riHr. Returning, the wind died as we entered the river near the Beacon. and we made no progress. Knowing the superstitious nature of our Highland Chief. and seeing the willows bending under an approaching breeze, I , 1nkred Gl·mgc Gibeault to stick his knife on the starboard side l1f the foremast. This he did. The chief wanted to know the r,-.l\on. and Cowie and I explained that sailors when desiring .1 wind always stuck a knife in the mast on the side they wanted the wind to come from, and he would see the effect in a few minute,. He did, as the foremast ( over 30 feet in height) snapped and went owrboard with the large canvas sail. when a sudden squall struck us, heeling the boat over. That was about the only time I saw the Chief's bumptiousness toned down. He turned white, and looked at Cowie and myself as if we had nefarious designs against his august person, and were in league with the L \·ii One. It was a great success, a glorious vidory for us, and we could hardly refrain from laughing, we were so inwardly full of chuckles, and delighted. An examina­ tion showed a faulty knot in what was supposed to be a sound stick, but we did not give the show away, that the wind was not really to blame. With mainsail and jib attached to the stump of the foremast we managed a safe return. On the 19th July, we reached Churchill with the "Flora", and ~ve da !:S later were all ready to start with the "Laperouse" and Flora for Marble Island. The preceding year I had bought out of my salary (250._00) two binoculars or night glasses, and a barometer. Captam Hawes selecting them in London,

190 as all I had been formerly officially supplied with was the compasses. We used to trade small telescopes with the Esquimaux, who used them chiefly for spotting seals on the ice, and in conjunction with the compasses, these small telescopes (c. L. 7 /6) were all we had to search our way among ice, etc. I may say that the money was never refunded, and when my effects were shipped out in 1900, these binoculars were found to be too valuable to be forwarded. When we arrived at Dead Man's Island, the sentinel to Marble Island Harbor, we saw the masts of an American whaler, and as we anchored on the south side, a whaling boat steered by a tall-over six foot­ down Eastern Yankee mate, and manned by Esquimaux, came alongside the "Laperouse". After the first greeting my friend wanted the news, as they had seen no white face since last summer, 1884. I said, "What do you want to hear?'' He replied instanter, "Wal'. Who is President of the U-nited States?" Not to excite him too much, I remarked I did not know, whereupon he was almost disgusted with my ignorance. "Wal! Wal! To think that the first white man we meet after being in cold storage for nearly a year, does not know who is President of the U -nited States beats everything." Finally, after swapping plugs of tobacco in sociability-I had no liquor to help him drown his sorrows - I recollected that Cleveland bad been elected and so stated. His answer showed his political tendencies. "WaU I kinder hoped Blaine would have got it," and then to check any wrongful impression I might undergo as a Britisher on my part, as to the capability of the President, he continued "Not to say Captain (I wore the H.B.C. sea badge in my "cheese cutter" from boyish vanity), that Cleveland of Ohio isn't a smart man, but Secre-tar-y Blaine is a darned sight smarter.'' We discussed the hardships they had endured wintering at Marble Island, where the sailors' enemy. Scurvy, had been exceptionally severe, and laid the crew out. His description. of how he had to instil animosity against himself by seemmg outrageous, cruel and unsympathetic con?u~t, to the extent. of hauling them out of their bunks, and kickmg them-bootmg them, he called it-in his efforts to save their lives from physical inaction, mental depression, complete listlessness and indifference to their dangerous situation, was amusing as well as practically instructive. He had to be "cruel only to be kind" (Hamlet) to obtain beneficial results, even at the expense of his reputation, and that of his mother, for sailor's language, when aroused, is

191 of times "painful and free". However he got them all through and fit for duty, where, let us hope, they appreciated his brutJ!ity. for be was a decent, kind, well-meaning fellow.

T 3 king his lea\'e in the c\'ening he extended his Captain's im·itation to pay his vessel a visit, which I accepted for the next d.w. In the morning, therefore, we pulled alongside Jnd mad·e the acquaintance of Captain Borden, who received me cordiJlly, and insisted I should spend the forenoon at least with him c1nd have midday dinner. We talked as only men can tJlk on such rare occasions, of meeting a strange friendly. face in the Arctic Barren Grounds, and I learned one valuable lesson fron this soulful. educated sea-captain, which I have tried lt) practice all my life in my relations to my fellow men. It was in connection with his sublime treatment of Captain Hawes on the occasion before referred to, when he assisted him with fresh meat, vegetables, etc., after wintering at Churchill. In thanking him personally I offered to repay him, but he told me how he had refused Hawes' proffered payments in money in these words, "If you ever come across an American vessel, or any other nation in fact, in the same condition of want as I found \·ou. do unto them as I have done, with good will, and you will repay me amply." Churchill was reached on the 12th August. We met no ice worth speaking of, but lost an anchor in trying to ride out a gale. the only loss or damage we sustained in the five years I made these voyages to Marble Island. We used to meet ice between Chesterfield Inlet on this coast, and between Churchill and York Factory at times, which made life a possibility only for a few minutes. With little more than an inch plank to separate us from final disaster we had many narrow escapes. One year we set out from York for Churchill in our schooner on August the 1st. Just outside we came on an ice field, and Cap~ain. Hawes, thinking it to be but a patch essayed to go outside 1t. but there seemed to be no outside, and we turned and tried inside acros~ th.e mouth of the Nelson. For five days we were messed up m 1t, about the Nelson Shoals, ice as far as we could see, and heavy ice, it was aground about us in 30 feet of water. All the way to Fort Churchill we had ice and we were eleven days on the journey. The "Eric" from London was a _week fighting its way thro' the barrier, and got to C?urchill on the 16th. Our little expedition gave us no anxiety. \\ e had our year's collection on board with no insurance, as far

192 as I knew, our grub ran short, and I felt a responsibility for 10 or 11 men, but I had enough detachment from such worries (being young and maybe rash) to take notice of the manifest trend southward of this great icefield, and its steady grinding along the bottom. It seemed to me to account fully for all the phenomena which the Bookmen so readily associate with Glacier action. We know how boulders and gravel become incorporated with shore ice as it forms, how the tides in their rise and fall, and storms at sea lead to the thickening of the ice, and the lifting power of one of these great floes seems equal to q1ising pretty nearly anything one can conceive as a boulder. The shore current will prove the situation on the bottom, always in the same direction-floes, as we have seen them, rubbing or grinding their way along, checked by the ebb-tide, but resuming their way as the tide flows, depositing mud and gravel and shedding boulders as they go. Such action in time may account for those raised beaches we used to traverse on our summer journeys between York and Churchill; beaches many miles inland, but still holding the charred remains of camp fires and circles of stones, (limestone white like the green circles of the old buffalo wallows) where the tent flaps were held down, pointing to the natives of the long forgotten past, camping on these beaches when the sea lapped them. (It is like the story of the Kitchen Middens of Denmark). So while I have not dwelt unduly on the dangers of ice­ navigation, the corroboration of Dr. Alexander Milne will perhaps give a clearer conception of some of the risks we ran in open boats.

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193 CHAPTER XL VII

Re,·. Joseph Lofthouse·s Wedding on the ·'Alert·· and Reminiscences

Once more .\ Ir. Lofthouse had come to Churchill to meet his intended. The "Cam Owen" ,vith our friend Captain Hawes in command. and a Mr. \Vood as first mate, arrived on the 28th August. l 885, h.1\'ing as passengers Miss Falding and_ Alice her maid. There ,os great rejoicing, but a serious question arose: \\'ho was to marry the Reverend Joseph? There was not another d,T-'.\'mJn within five hundred miles of them. The H.c\'. G. S. \\'intcr·s furlough had been extended for another '-·c·.ir on account of his wife's illness. Mr. Lofthouse had relied on his return. Many marriages had in olden days been performed. when there was no clergyman, by officers in charge of H.B. posts, according to the custom of the country, which were held legal, by written contract, declaration of consent before witnesses, similar to the Scottish form of marriage. But how would this be considered with a clergyman on hand to take precedence The reverend gentleman was certainly in a dilemma. and had thoughts of marrying himself. when the Dominion Government steamer "Alert" arrived on the scene on the 31st, with our old friends, Lieut. Gordon, Dr. Bell. Captain Barry, and a new one, J. W. Tyrell, who was assigned to take charge at Ashe's Inlet in Hudson Strait. The "Alert" had come to get .\ l r. Spencer's meteorological records, and had been engaged in the relief of last year's observers, by bringing out new ones. She remained till the 7th September, the weather being ven· stormy. A council of war against adverse circumstances was held on the "Alert" and all brain storms considered, to find a way out of th, impasse of the Rev. J. Lofthouse and his fiancee, who was a mo:t estimable, prepossessing young lady. To be or not to be was mdeed the question, and the he's had it. It was unani­ mously decided Lieutenant Gordon, with a commission as J.P., and the special authority and powers attached to his position as commander of the Hudson Bay Expedition, was duly qualified

194 ~o tie the matrimonial knot of two longing hearts, already suffer­ mg from two years protracted separation. We were all to have a ha~d in the ceremony, s? the marriage contract was carefully written out, and the service of the Anglican Church performed. and every one of the witnesses, signed, sealed, and sanctioned his or her signature. No one who was present at that wedding dinner on board the "Alert", forgot the spread of good cheer in viands, liquid refreshments and good will. The cooks and stewards surpassed themselves, and all went merry as the pro­ verbial marriage bell. The 4th September, 1885, was thus to be remembered. The "Alert" had brought out lumber, windows, etc., as a gift from good people, chiefly Presbyterians by the way, in Ottawa and vicinity, sufficient to build a small mission house. Lieut. Gordon and Dr. Bell had interested themselves during the winter in the matter, as it was erroneously mooted that the H.B.C. objected to the establishing of a Mission at Churchill. and to overcome the difficulty of house-habitation, as understood by them, sympathy was aroused in Mr. Lofthouse's behalf. He in his book, "A Thousand Miles from a Post Office" writes, "for if this lumber, etc., had not been brought out, we could not have had a mission there for years, as the Company would not help us." Had he used the word "could" not. he would have been correct. This statement carried a wrong implication. When the Mission project was first discussed, and the Company approached for assistance, the company objected to undertake any responsibility, having in view the difficulty of obtaining lumber for their own needs of houses and boats, and the greater one of providing an adequate supply of food for their employees, but they had no objection to the Church Missionary Society acting and depending solely on themselves, so that should any­ thing serious follow the settlement of a missionary and his family, the Company could not be held blameable in connection therewith. I had the great pleasure in 1889 of staying a week in Ottawa with my good friend Dr. Robert Bell and his. family, and wit~ Lieut. Gordon's family at Cooksville, Ontano; at Port Credit I also met Mr. Skynner. At the same time I hunted up Mr. James W. Tyrell in Toronto. and the following year when on my ,,.;ay to Cassiar, B.C., at Victoria, received an invitation to his wedding. His valuable and instructive book "Across the Sub-Arctics of Canada" on the journey he and his brother J. B.

195 T\ ,, 11 made in 18G 3. should be in every Canadian Library, home, and c,pl'l:i.111\' school. The modesty and consequent cxcdkncl' of the recital of their hardships, heroically sustained and c,wrcomc. is understood thoroughly from my own knowl­ edge of till' Barren Grounds, and the ice-laden coast, south of Chest.:rficld Inlet. Tbcir agony of feelings and sufferings could nl°1t be appreciated to the full extent, from the simplicity of narr.1tiw. by the uninitiated in Arctic travel. Therefore I would like t,, pa,· tribute t,) their marvellous Peterborough canoe l'xp,ril·r,L-l'' with icL'. storms. and freezing starvation along this c,w,t. portrayed in the chapter "Life or Death". It came near, ,·en· Th'Jr ,1,,.1th. but both brothers arc alive ( 1928) with records not on!\' exceedingly crcdit.1ble to themselves in further explora­ tion and developments. but to Canada as a whole. In 1897. \\'hen manager of the Aberdeen salmon cannery on r k Skccn.1 Ri,·l'r. I heard that a Captain Barry was at the St.rndar,J Crnncrv. I took my tugboat, descended the river, and c1me in early morning alongside the Standard Cannery wh.1rf. wher,· I recognized my old friend on the deck of his cr.1 t t. He could not place me at first, having no idea I was in B_C., but when I told him I had Jaq met him at the mouth of a r1\·,r. right acr, ,,, the continent from the Skeena, he named me at once, and was overjoyed to meet me. He showed, with pride, the g, ,Id watch and its inscription, the observers of the H.B. Expedition uf 18S·t .rnd 5 had presented to him, which he con­ sidered his grcatc,t treasure. We met often after this in Victoria, till he died there on the 21,t May, 1914. I make these reflections here, because when the "Alert" called at c.~urch_il·I· in. I 886, with Admiral Markham as guest on his old .-\r-:r1c ship, I was away at .\larble Island, and the obser­ vations in the Hudson Strait having been completed she did not call again. ' A few hours after the wedding ceremony, the Rev. Joseph Lofthouse and his wife. left on the "Cam Owen" for York Fac.tory. ,:-:;,,cting to get there in three or four days, whereas owing to bad weather conditions, fourteen days elapsed before they landed and settled down for the winter . .!he s~~tling down process commenced with ourselves when the ,-\lert left on the 7th September, and a five months hiatus bet'.•:.:s:n pad:ets had to be filled in.

196 CHAPTER XL VIII

A Hard Winter Trip with the Packet

Travel and travail are nearly akin as I learned the winter of I 885/6. An epidemic (Anterior Poliomyelitis) broke out among our Esquimaux dogs towards the end of December, 1885. We did our best to check the disease by attending to their feed more carefully, and keeping them tied up or separated. Strange to say every seven years or thereabouts, this disease makes its appearance with the usual disastrous results of wiping out of existence the good, and leaving the most useless dogs behind, and even for that we had to be thankful. Wolves and foxes are attacked in like manner, and cases are known when they have wandered inside the pickets or palisades which surround the buildings. The disease affected the dogs in several ways. Sometimes the hind quarters would appear paralyzed and were dragged along by the forequarters as if there was no connection. A fixity of the jaw would be noticed in others, while again some would attempt to snap at one passing. Dogs would be found frozen stiff, seated on their hind quarters with their heads up, as if looking at the moon. Of seven teams, each consisting of six dogs, in the course of a month only two were left. I have an idea that white foxes communicated or carried the disease to the dogs, as that year foxes were numerous, and the carcasses of those trapped were fed to the dogs. I did not so feed my own dog "Centaur" and he came out of the ordeal, and a long winter trip untouched. My chief at York Factory, who evidently did not appreciate my presence, and wanted to put an obstacle to my visiting the Factory, and learning too much of what was going on, had written in the fall to Mr. Spencer, that if Mr. McTavish wanted to visit York with the packet, he must take the place of one of the packeters, and thus keep expenses dow~. I do not know where the reduction of expenses would come m, as I had to eat, even if I remained at Churchill. My wages, as those of the servants, were annual. and as for time we had generally some in the winter to spare, which could not impoverish the Company

197 in any way. Trr and imagine the rcmpc·r.1ment and me.nulity of a man who sought to dctc'r a youth from the society of friendlr faces in .1 la~d of solitude. However I \Vas determined to sho\~' him that the calibre of a real Hudson Bay tripper might be exemplified in m \" clerical person, so I accepted the ultimatum. Out of the dozen dogs lc,ft. \Vastesecoot and I picked out six, Cent.nu. Bluey. Carlo. \Volf, Bob, and because of a shortened tail. Sr umpy.

In preparing f ,,r .1 h,ng trip we look to the condition of the dogs on whom the hardest work falls, the perfection of their ,leds. and reduce our personal belongings and food to a minimum. as cwry pound of weight tells on man and beast, con sequen ti y the· r,· is no room for 1uxuries ( did they exist?) , .111d dried venison, salt pork ( more for flavouring ptarmigan), te.1, sugar, flour. pepper and salt. with a little oatmeal. form the st.1plc articles of food. plus ammunition. If we could add .1 litt!,· r,·i;;dcLT pemmican to our cuisine, then we were indeed lucky. Careful attention is likewise given to the supply of our c, 10h i rH; utensils. consisting of tin tea-cooking kettles and frying p.rn. ,\xes had to be sharpened, and the fire-bags stocked with matches. pipes. pocket knife and tobacco. All our provisions had to be weighed and packed in separate bags, made of duck to withstand the wear and tear of being unceremoniously thrown about. and every night's feed for the dogs, consisting of f rozcn blubber, and whale skins, had to be made up sep~ .1rately in parchments, so there may be no danger of running short before the journey is over. Then in addition to all this, people wish to send remembrances to their friends, and 15 or 20 parc:ch are added, so that when everything, including guns. and blankets. is put on the sled, the dogs have no light weight to haul at starting, and the driver has to be careful1 in guiding the sled over rough ice, or in the woods where unbroken snow is soft and deep. and stumps and branches of trees hidden. On .\londay, the 18th January, 1886, Wastesecoot and myself at 5 a.m. ~n a bitterly cold day, bade goodbye to those ~cople who had nsen out of warm beds, to see us start in the ".1rk. Hardly had we left the Fort before our troubles began. In th~ dark. Wastesecoot lost his way among the rough ice on the nver. and I soon found that my team of dogs were not

equ~l to ~he w?rk. By the time we got across the river 1 four or h,·..: miles wide, my arms were aching with the severe strain and efforts I had to ma k e m· extracting· the Esqmmaux. sled

198 from among the rough ice, for do what I could to prevent it, the sled would upset, or get jammed in such a position that all my strength and ingenuity could hardly clear it. The trip was begun and we determined to finish it. At sunrise, the coldest time of a short winter day, we had breakfast. No time is lost downing the contents of the kettles, and while the guide takes a few whiffs of his pipe (no use trying to smoke on the trail as the nicotine or saliva freezes) , the driver reloads the sled and if necessary ices the mud runners anew. After breakfast, which took about three-quarters of an hour. we again donned our snowshoes, and at midday were only fifteen miles from Churchill, at a place called Estachican Ridge. Here we made a cup of tea. When we reached the next bluff of woods, called the Hummock, a distance of four more miles, the sun was getting low and we had to abandon our idea of reaching the Eastern Woods, 25 miles from Churchill. the day being so far advanced, and the dogs used up. Passing the Hummock, we camped at an outlying point of woods near the track. I checked up at York Factory the meteorological records during the trip, and here the thermometer registered 42 degrees below zero. Up at 4 a.m., rebuilt the fire, put on the tea kettle and gathered our things together. After tea and cake were partaken of, we loaded and iced the sled, harnessed the dogs and at 5 o'clock left camp. The light of the moon enabled us to keep the track easily. The dogs went slowly, and I had enough to do to keep from freezing, tho' I had on a hairy deerskin coat, and was warmly clad. Our road before this had been on the plains where the snow was hard, but now we had to open the track through the woods, where the snow was unusually soft and deep. Before attempting it with the dogs, ,vc made a fire and had breakfast, after which, leaving the dogs and sled, we set out on snowshoes to beat a track. The sled was started in the trench made by our snowshoes, and walking alongside in the soft snow, I guided the sled among the trees and hauled w~th the dogs. Despite the intense cold, 50 degrees below zero, w1~h a wind averaging 24 0 miles an hour, I was soon bathed m sweat. The sled would often bury itself in the snow, and the weakness of the dogs rendered my exertions more fa~iguin_g than under ordinary circumstances. Two hours passed m this way. hauling and tugging at the sled, and I had got half way

199 through the woods. when I sa \\' \\' astesecoot coming to meet me. He (,ff,'rc'd to t.1ke my pbce as drivc_r. Lrnd I gladly accepted. This e\'cn was rwt .1greeabk. Hauling at the s_lc,~'. ,1 could kc,'p \\·,um. walking. my damp clothes began to fnal. and to l'lc'\'c'lll freezing altl1gl'ther. I set O~lt ,1[ J run, but JS · · s, I in" to Ica\·c the dlws too far behind, I had to rctr.1c,' t I1 IS L.1 ll. cl " "' · d d mv stc'p~. thu-; ClW,'ring more ground than I shot~ld. :\t mt ~y \\·,, got clear of the woods. and ,1t the edge of SnmvshDL' Plain \\'C made ,1 drinl-.. l,f tc'J. The third dav we started L',ulier than on prL'ccding ones, and the t r.1ct beaten owrnight. being now ha~d frozen .. t hl' dogs tr,1\'cllcd fairl\' \\'c'll. and our .hopes rose tn proportion: but de' we rc',1chcd Cr,)\· ·s Bluff, their pace had slackened. tho rh, snow w.1s hard enough here tu ,upport them on the surL1cc. The cold ,_, .. ,\ mu,t SL'Wre this morning, al tho' it \\' ,1'> only 48 dcgrcL''> h, low zero, and the wind blowing 19 miles ~n hour. On t !Ji-, morning huwL·\·rr the dogs were merely crawling, and as we li,·c.1me colder we put on additional garments. till their weight also began to tell on us, and wc,uiness was our portion. Coming to \\'hite Whale [ ..1!-..l' Ridge, a much appreciated drinl-.. ()f tL',1 ,,·,1s indulged in, and before resuming our journey WL' m.1,~,· a cache (\f a night's feed of blubber for the dogs' homeward trip. Continuing my duties .1s guide, we crossed White Whale L1ke at its ,,utlct. half a mile wide, p.,<;scd thro' some scrubs.

1 1 and st< r 1 ,·: for .1 few minutes at a bluff of woods called "\ lin1\lL·r's Lobstick". Just at dusk one of the dogs fell on his side, snapping at the traces, and I knew more trouble was in store for us. The other dogs continued hauling, and Stumpy was dragged along, growling and biting at the snow or anything within reach, ,•:bile I kept the whip cracking to keep up the dogs' speed, so that he could not bite them as well. \ 1v meditations and situation on that plain, I can picture to my,self yet, as vividly as if this experience had only occurred yesterday. Crawling along, and rdracing one's steps every dozen yards, so as not t, lose sight of the dogs, darkness around, not a sound save the rasl:'ing of the sled runners on the frozen snow, the inability t~ JU~ge where we were heading, trusting to blind luck and the d1~ectt_on of the wind for the right direction, and the cold cnnklmg one's fles?, as if being steeped in vinegar. After some weary hours of this work we tumbled into the Creek, and tho'

200 not _knowing ~f we were near the track or not, commenced makmg camp m the dark. But first we had a nip of brandy from the bottle reserved for months for this trip. At sunrise on our fourth day we left camp and in the afterno?n made Broad River, Stumpy having several fits on the plam. Stumpy could not get his jaws together, and had another fit, so dangerous that we reluctantly decided to shoot him, which we did. Thermometer 51 degrees below zero. Before leaving Broad River I had taken the precaution of filling a stone bottle with boiling hot tea, so that in the middle of the plain we could have a lukewarm drink, there being no place or means whereby we could make a fire. During the forenoon the dogs travelled well, much better than when Stumpy was alive, but as we approached the scrubs bordering Owl River in the evening, it was pitiful to see the efforts they made in hauling the sled thro' the soft snow and long willows. On the 6th day we started early, leaving our third cache of dogs' meat at Owl River. At 1 p.m. we were at the edge of Stony River Plain. Here we had tea and a few mouthfuls of bannock. Our great eagerness to push on prevented us from cooking midday meals, and from our second day out we had nothing to break our fast, from breakfast 5 a.m., till nearly the same time, and oftimes later p.m., save this drink of tea, and morsel of frozen cake. The sun was nearly set when we got across the plain, and in Stony River. Following up the ice bed we came to "Green Bluff" and camped. We made a 4th cache. We had fifty-odd miles to travel and only two days' provisions left. Under ordinary circumstances this quantity would have been amply sufficient, but the state of the dogs was becoming truly deplorable. Our conversation that evening was a serious one. We resolved if the dogs were unable to reach Island Bluff the next night, to leave dogs and sled, and with nothing but the packet, our blankets, tea-kettle, guns and axes, endeavour to make the Factory and get help. Thermometer 46 degrees below zero. In the bright moonlight on our seventh day we went down the river till we came to the crossing track, the dogs going better than expected. We crossed the plain between ~tony River a~d Partridge Creek, then the one between Partridge and White Bear Creek, before we had a fire. The next plain was a small one, and after passing through the thick woods of Duck Creek, we could see Island Bluff. The sun was still high when we

201 reached the Bluff. The dogs \\'(TC used up, and had become Sl) helpless, spiritless. that I ha~ to actually ca:ry them in my arms from their traces to their beds, and I did not even take the trouble to chain them in any way. When I took the thawed blubbL'r to them. only two partook thereof. Of the ~crn.1ir,ing tbree. one lud ::i sore neck caused by the collar, and the other t \1·c,. Carlo, the foregoer ::ind Wolf. the steerer. showed symptoms of the discL1sc. The sea-coast was only a couple of miles .noy, and we decided to leave the woods, and get on the smooth ice instead. Thermometer minus 3 2 degrees. \Ve boiled our tea-kettles in the middle of the night, and in the c,uly hours of tbc 25th loaded our sled, harnessed the dogs. and wended our way thro' the trees in the direction of the co.1st. \\'c1stesccoot walking ahead with his robe flying .uound his head ;:rnd shoulders, and in the moonlight much rL·,,·mbling J spectre. Daylight began to appear as we got on the smooth ice, and tying our snow-shoes on the sled with the ):'or' -West wind on our backs, the dogs mechanically quickening their paces, we felt much cheered and made good progress. As we passed several traps we broke the necks of the foxes caught therein, while from the woods on our right, we saw the ascending smoke of two Indian campfires, the first sight of hum.1:1 life since leaving Churchill. For hours we ran up :\c·l\, n River's frozen shore, and at last coming to a creek we went up a little distance to the woods for shelter, and made tea. Then off again. this time across the river, 5 miles wide. \Vhcn the river freezes in the fall, the ice by successive tides i, forced up in piles on either side of the river, and generally gets the name of "rough ice", being virtually small icebergs. In mid-channel the ice forms smoothly. Between the rough ice and _smooth there is an <;>Pen seam or crack, at high tide filled with water, and sometimes this water overflows. Was­ tcsec?ot to~k his axe and broke down the rough ice to make hauling easier for the dogs, but when we came to the crack, the dogs refused to cross. I changed the leader three times to n~ purpos_e, and at last we resorted to force. First making a bridge of ice, and afterwards fastening a line made of sealskin to the :ollar o~ the foregoer, Wastesecoot hauled the whole lot after him, while I assisted by attending to the sled. In this manner we got across, but on the smooth ice we experienced more trouble. Carlo, the foregoer, was so weak he could not th ' I 1 d h' · · stand · oand P ace im in the middle, I had occasionally

202 to set him on his legs when he tumbled over. Wolf could barely walk, and Bluey, Bob and Centaur, my own dog. were the only three able to do anything. I got Wastesecoot to take the sled, put Centaur foregoer, and he followed me, till we made the south side of the river, when I became driver. It was nearly dusk, and a couple of hours' walk down the beach at a snail's pace was beginning to have a bad effect on men and dogs. when a figure was seen emerging from the woods on our right. The sight acted like a tonic on the dogs, who, a few minutes before. had to be set on their legs. They curled their aforetime drooped tails over their backs, craned their necks to see past one another. and actually managed to break into a trot, which lasted till we shook hands with the cook of the wood-cutters. He led us to the track, and in a few minutes we were shaking hands with the men, all of whom I knew, and having a much needed refreshment of tea and biscuit. The stars were sparkling as we went in, with the bells jingling on the dogs' harness, heartening them on their last lap. on the hard track leading to the Factory. and at 8 o'clock we entered the back gate, amid the howling of the dogs. and salutations of our friends, and our troubles were over for the time. Thermometer 44 degrees. A few words will dispose of the return trip. Before leaving the Factory we shot Carlo. Wolfe. and left Bluey behind. purchasing four other dogs to replace them. We were accom­ panied by Mr. John G. Mowat, his place being taken by Mr. John Ross, from the interior. The work was easier. the dogs travelled faster, and after rescuing William Tootoosh at Stony River from starvation, by giving him all our available supplies and ammunition. which reduced us to oatmeal ptarmigan soup the last two days of our trip. we arrived at Churchill with the letters on Friday. the 5th February, at 3 p.m .. on our seventh day from the Factory.

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203 CHAPTER XLIX

1886 Jnd Loss of "Cam Owenlt

The usual routine work was carried on, and I made no more trips to the f.,ctory. John G. Mowat proved an agreeable companion and lived with me. As it was intended that he should 1 .1 kc my place on the Marble Island trip, the follo~ing HJr. the opportunity to accompany me and learn the busmess ,os .1fforded him. On Saturday, July 17th, we left for Marble Island and had the worst voyage as regards weather, ice condi~ tions. etc., I bad experienced. The trade was good however. There was a fearful storm on the 4th September, and we were somewhat anxious about the ship should she be in the vicinity. On the 7th we got the surprise of our lives, when a small rowboat appeared, manned by Mr. Lovegrove, the first mate. and two sailors of the "Cam Owen". They brought the unwelcome news that the "Cam Owen" was a wreck, on the south side of Cape Churchill. Luckily the crew and passengers had ~ucccccled in landing, and were camped on shore in sail~ made t.: :1 ts. An attempt had been made to send for aid by land, but the party had lost their way in the maze of small lagoons, stretching across the Cape to the Eastern Creeks, and were fortunate in getting back to their starting point. Mr. Lovegrove agreed to face the hazard of reaching Churchill in the ship's gig. and succeeded after strenuous adventures. \\' e learned that the "Cam Owen", after buffeting bad weather. had, owing to a sudden fall of wind, been forced to a~chor in the Bight between Knightshill Beacon and the Cape. 1 he heavy swell, with bad holding ground for the anchors, set the vess.el landwards, and when the storm again broke, on the 4th, with the gale from Nor' East, Captain Hawes had to choose between going ashore, or trying to escape round the Cape. In crossing the Cape the vessel struck, but he got across

to find that he had to trust again to his anchors 1 as the vessel was filling wit~ water, and she might founder in deeper water. The smooth limestone formation of this part of the coast prevented the anchors from holding, and she was surged along

204 the shore, till she found a final resting place, some 15 to 20 miles to the South of the Cape. At low tide her anchor's tracks were plainly discernible, resembling a wagon road trail. We immediately prepared the "Laperouse", and told the men to get the "Dolphin" ready to follow. 8th. Left Churchill in the "Laperouse" at daybreak. Occu­ pants, Messrs. Spencer, Lofthouse, Lovegrove, myself, Waste­ secoot, Sandy Mayham and the two sailors. 9th. Started at daybreak, and crossed the Cape, shortly after seeing the ship. Could not approach close on account of heavy seas and breakers ( white running horses). Anchored half a mile to the Southward, and walked ashore when the boat took the ground. (Memo.: Coast boats were built to withstand thumps and bumps.) Tents made of sails sheltered the passengers and crew on the beach ridge. Mr. Spencer and I met Captain Hawes, and on climbing the rope ladder of the "Cam Owen", the Rev. G. S. Winter and Dr. Alexander Milne frae Aberdeen, Scotland. Adjourned to cabin for something to eat and drink. Tide coming in. Mr. Spencer went ashore, and I remained on board with Captain Hawes, the Doctor and Chips, making a new boom. All hands ashore at dark. Slept in tent where we met Mrs. Winter, her maid Lizzie Porter, with little "Dot". Mrs. Winter's first question almost, was if we had any soft bread, as she could not eat the hard ship's biscuits -preserved in tight iron tanks-her teeth not being equal to the task. Soaking the "hard tack" in tea, however, solved her craving for a soft flour adjunct to preserved beef. 10th. Friday. Remained on board all day, assisting Cap­ tain and Doctor getting provisions, etc., ready for the trip to the Factory. We took all the cased liquors to prevent them falling into the hands of Indians. The "Cam Owen" filled with water when the tide made, and the only dry cases saved were a few private importations shipped at Stromness, ~ine among the number. The "Dolphin" arrived in the evening, and anchored alongside ship. Got the crew (half-breeds) some­ thing to eat and drink, and at midnight set them. to wor~. Passengers all came aboard "Laperouse" during the night. I did not go to sleep. 11th. Saturday. Left the "Cam Owen" 5 .~.m., havi~~ to cut the connecting lines with an axe. from t?e L~perouse , as with the surging of the heavy seas 1t was 1mposs1ble to undo

205 the krH,ts \\'astesecoot ,os the only Churchill man with llll'. Tim',' reefs in both s.1ils, occasional blinding snow drifts . .\nchorcd, .1f t,'r s.1iling IS miles. and had a couple of hours' sleep when the tide was out. The "Cam Owen's'' crew numbered fourt<'<'n. R,,,·. G. S \\'inter, \ lrs. W., Lizzie Porter, "Dot" .:ind Dr. \ lilnc were passengers, and with Wastcsccoot and nnsdf nude .1 total of twrntY-onc. All the heating apparatus was our open fire kettle or box, .1nd we were lucky if we could get a t,',1 h.L'ttlc boiled. cooking being out of the question, or l10t me.1ls. Tlw five passL'ngcrs with Captain Hawes occupied the c.1hin ( 6 feet in length. 4 feet high, and the width tapering fr1,m 6 to -f fret). the crew were on the floor of the boat, amid the prcwisinns. boxes, etc.. and when the wind sent the smoke whirling all .1lwul them. they had to stick their heads over the bulwarks into the blasts of the storm. to get a breath of fresh .1ir I had my quarters in the stern sheets, or well, with no prutL'ction. other th.111 the end of the cabin afforded. It was mighty hard on the lady passengers. but all discomforts bad to be endured. and it was fortunate they had an inch roof over their heads ..111d were comparatively warm when the little cabin door was closed. After all the horrors of shipwreck their nerves wn,: fra,·l·,I and when we touched bottom, as we occasionally did in the snowstorms, I did not blame them if they thought their end had come.

Up at 4 p.rn. Heavy squalls with wet snow. Kept lead \<)undings \tL'.1dily in snow squalls. steered by compass and local kn.owledge. One sail and that triple reefed. Captain \[,·,·rL·d ttll we anchored at dark in Brood River Bight. Soaked to the skin through my capot. We never wore oilskins in H.B. E~ptied water out of my mittens, took off my wet trousers and tried to sleep under my good H.B. blanket. 12th. Sunday. Up at daybreak nearly frozen. Cold but cl_.:.1r W1:Jther. Before weighing anchor, saw a white bear, but d1? not touch him. \Vind fresh. Made distance between Broad River and Owl River under four hours, boat going over 6 miles an h~ur. Tide ebbing, we anchored and had salt beef ( cooked Jt. ship camp), dinner inside "Nelson Shoals", and about ten miles _Northward of Stony River. Started again at 5 p.m., I steering. Got among the shoals, so stood out till the leadsman gave two fathoms, and then ran along the coast. Dropped anchor about 9 pm d . ded- "all . ;, ·• an went ~o seep1 with the Doctor on · standing · Cold and raining. Misery.

206 .~eptember 13th. Woke before daybreak. Executed a "pas ~eul on the ?eek to warm my feet, which were nearly frozen m m Y. Husk1e boots. Cold clear morning. blowing a gale. Slept till daybreak, and then got over the side of the boat and went in for exercise. By and by the Doctor followed suit. All hands up anchor when tide made. Struck straight across for the 1?eac?n ~rom vicinity of Duck Creek. Four hours' sailing. nothing m sight. At last I caught sight of Beacon, and altering course came into Hayes River at 5 Fathom Hole. Took the helm and set mainsail. Tide too strong. so shook out reefs gradually as we gained the shelter of the river bank. and at last anchored off the launch at 12 noon. 16th. Captain Hawes and crew with Dr. Mathews left for Winnipeg. (Memo.: They arrived there on the 24th October.) Mr. Crowe had arrived from the interior during the summer to take Mr. James Cowie's place as accountant, the latter trans­ ferring to Winnipeg for orders. Mr. Crowe and family were domiciled in Dr. Mathew's old quarters, Mrs. Mathews having gone up-river in summer. Old Mr. Mowat had died, so our chief had a new set of officers on whom to operate. As the chief wanted John G. Mowat out of the way, he offered no objection when I suggested he should return with me, to become more conversant with the Churchill trade. Sept. 18th-Mr. Mowat, Wastesecoot and I left for Churchill in the goose-hunt boat. 25th-Breakfast at Croy Bluff Creek. Soon after spied the wreck, but did not get to it until dinner-time. Saw a white bear at the tents. and I put a ball into him, after which he decamped into the interior. Made a tent of old sails. 26th. Sunday. Went on board ship at low water, ascending by rope ladder. Prospected. Got provisions and remained on board till 2 a.m. Blowing a hurricane, and considered living on board unsafe. At high tide the middle of the boat rose and fell with the storm till we feared the two ends would part, and Wastesecoot was so scared he could not sleep. We remained at the wreck till 1st October, salvaging provisions, hardware and anything we could, for once the ice formed all cargo would be sealed solid, so everything we could handle with the aid of old Dick. his two sons, David ;ind Robert, and his daughter, who had arrived on the 27th (probably on a looting expedi­ tion which we forestalled), was brought out of the old hold and stored in the cabin. We landed a cash of draught ale belonging to the ship's stores, and one night David Dick got

207 .1cccss thereto and helped himself. \\'hen be came out of the (()Id sober the inside of the tent .1ffected his libations, and be started to cle.1n us all out. \Ve got his gun away, and I put hic1 in .1 straight j.1ckct by wrapping a couple of blankets round him and then t\·ing him up like a baby in a moss bag, lc.1\'ing his throat and breathing apparatus free. He frothed at the mouth for ,1\vhilc. but in an hour or tw·o quieted down. and we released him. But before that I went outside and put a bullet into the cask, so that Mr. Indian would not have an incenti\'C le) go on the warpath again. \ i r. Spencer had loaded the "Dolphin" with flour casks. pork .10d ship's biscuits. Tea and sugar had succumbed to the ~l'J. and the whole yc,1r's supply was practically lost. The flour in the casks, while under water, had coagulated and formed a pr, 'l l'd i \'c paste, making a barrel within a barrel as it were, and leaving a centre of dry good material hermetically sealed. We were thus able to obtain a guarantee, while the ship held t, •.:,·1 her, we woul,I not st.1rve. On the 2nd October we arrived at Churchill. The trippers !cf t again on the 9th March for the wreck to get the last of the salt pork, beef, etc. The days now being longer cla r light and the track beaten; they returned on the evening ,,f the 10th, leaving their sleds in the middle of the ri\',T: as it \\:3, drifting too much, and the dogs could not ()htarn a footmg on tbc top of the ice. This overflow of the \~'Jt,'r. especially at stream tides proved embarrassing on occa­ sions when we bad to cross. 20th-Our chief arrived from York I;:1c_iury at 3 p.m. in a drift with Joseph Keetchekesick ~nd \\ 1ll1am Grey. 22nd-Chief left for wreck and reached 1t on 24th.

208 CHAPTER L

Last Winnipeg Conference, 188 7 Commissioner Wrigley

Mr. Spencer left for the Factory July 5th to take charge while our Chief attended a gathering of the Clans-the last­ at Winnipeg, to meet Commissioner Wrigley. I have a copy of the menu of the banquet given by the commissioned officers to Commissioner Wrigley, at the Queen's Hotel, on Portage Avenue. For years the Hudson's Bay officers met at Carlton annually, to discuss the business of the Company, and make Winter and Summer arrangements as to personnel, transportation, goods, trade, etc., and this meeting kept alive-very much alive-that esprit de corps which had made "H.B.C." the cohesive symbol­ ism of friendship and hospitality. Commissioner Wrigley decided he could run the show from now on, without the combined friendly aggregation's interference (?) with what he considered his superior position, having enough precedents from their experienced workings of generations to keep him secure during his term of office. So the links were segregated that there should be no pulling together as a strong personal chain, and the Company lost something, as they are now in 1928, after 41 years, attempting to regain, under the aegis of understanding, sympathetic Governor V. Sale, the communion of good spirits, and universal fellowship. Dr. Mathews met our Chief at this gathering, and stated what he thought of him, being no longer in the Company's service. Our Chief did not accept the challenge, but the occurrence brought me into collision with him also, as will be narrated later.

209 CHAPTER LI

Mainly White Whales

On the 13th \H had put down the whale net, and we rnntinued fishing till the 20th August, when it was packed .1 w .w. \\'h,1k fishing afforded us real excitement, and. we were ht'pl busy catching 160 during the season. Sometimes the whales would not come down with the turn of the tide, and when this happrncd we were unable to lift the barrier net or gate when the current became too strong.. We therefo~e. t?ok a sm,111 boat and proceeded with the flood tide to the vmmty of :-,1u\quito Puint. and at the proper moment harpooned a whale. This was casil y done. as they followed the sailing boat out of ,uri,,\ity. and when under the stern a swift heave of the hand harpoon tran,fixl·d one. The result showed the sound-carrying opacit\' of the water ( over four times that of air), as on this lone whale being struck, all the white whales dived and dis­ .1ppearl·d simultaneously, and when they reappeared to blow, r h,·\· \\ ,,, all heading for the mouth of the river at full speed. The net was so arranged, fastened by one end to the shore, and the other anchored in the stream, that there was no wholesale obstruct ion tu the whales, but we got what might be called a good catch. the <;tragglers following the immediate shore line. ·r wrnty-five whales on the 22nd was our best recorded tidal catch. I:x;:imination of their bodies revealed the warfare of :\ature. Two distinct impressions were translated, as legibly as fr, ·m type. The place, a Polar bear had had a hasty lunch or mouthful out of a whale's back, had healed up, and the imprint of the holding claws showed in the cuticle. The second was still more illuminating. Mr. Bear had probably been watching the '..;:imbols of the whales from a convenient floating ice pan, and had leaped down on his victim in search of dinner. The record of his initial grasp was plainly set behind the shoulder of tho mammal on each side, also the slithering of his claws till the. tail w_as reached, when the bear was washed or scraped off amid the 1cefloes. as the whale dived to safety. One Sprin~ the Esquimaux came up from Esquimaux Point and asked me 1f I would like to see them hunt whales from the

210 ice. They, in their search of seals, had discovered a narrow open lane of water about two hundred feet long. The whales had also found this breathing space in the otherwise solid pack on Button's Bay, and were taking full advantage of this crack to come up and breathe while in closer shore search for caplin or food. Such an opportunity to witness their skill with their home-made harpoons, lances and tough walrus hide lines was not to be disregarded, and I accompanied them to the scene of operations. There were half a dozen in the party, and spreading themselves behind convenient hummocks, the hunt commenced. It required a good deal of patience, watching for a whale's appearance, but the moment one was harpooned there was any amount of excitement viewing the primitive men with the denizens of the deep, and by means of original instruments of attack and tactics. The harpoon head was detachable from the handle, as in the walrus harpoon, to save breakage of their valued wooden shafts, thus giving full play to the' walrus-hide lines. A quick turn of the line round a convenient pinnacle of ice held the captive, while other harpoons were embedded in its sides, lances were employed in deadly effect, all movements being made with astonishing aptitude. One or two escaped with the line, as the ice edge cut through it, but the three landed after much exertion by par-buckling, amply repaid everybody and the Esquimaux beamed with the anticipations of many blubbery meals for themselves and families. The captures were certainly worth seeing, and I am indebted to the Esquimaux for a Yery lively recollection of an exciting hunt. White whales measure from 16 feet in length and 7 feet in girth. The hide is separated in two pieces, placed in the sun to rot till the epidermis sloughs, when it is cleaned and the scraped skin pegged out to dry, when it becomes leather and marketable for laces, boots, etc. The oil is extracted by two processes. One by the heat of the sun, which takes days, and is classed as "cold drawn", and very serviceable as a better burning fluid for lamps. The other is by co?king, after the blubber has been cut into small pieces or cubes, m copper kettles capable of holding half a ton. Our two flanged copper cauldrons were supported on circular walls of stones, and fires of wood made underneath. To prevent the blubber from burning or frying, we put in several gallons of water, _which later evaporated from the boiling oil and left the pure article to be ladled, when settled and cooled, into the "Diana's" iron tanks and huge wooden vats. The residue or "Krang" was reserved for dog

211 fo:d. One wintc'r the Esquim.rnx were starving when they arri~cd at the' Fort, and We' saved their li\'CS with this "Krang", havmg nothing else to give them. The white whales come into the river immediately after the ice ck.us out. One n·cning in cJrly July,. Meelook, an Esqui­ mau x. \\'JS sel'n running from the direction of Mosquito Point -whither he had gone bunting ducks-across the mud flat. r he tick being out. \Vhcn he reached us he s.1id a number of whaks bad been trapped in a depression on the shore by the rc'cc·ding tide. \Vith two Indians and Puckcoo, who happened to bc' on h.rnd. we got our guns. light lines, and started on the run. with mosquitoes galore trailing us. After a mile or so, ploughing through the mud and sand, we beat the tide, and commrnced a slaughter. Puckoo discarded all his clothes and wrnt int,) the w.1tL'r with a knife in his hand, while we began slH101ing from different stations along the pond. It was of wnsiderable ll·ngth and the water was up to Puckoo's w.1ist in the centre. The maddened whales careened from one end to the l'lhcr. and when they become momentarily stranded in shallow \Ola. we got in our deadly work. Puckoo would st.1nd in the line of approach, back to the whale. with his left hand ready to encircle the whale's neck as it passed, his right band holding the knife. When he had clasped his victim in an aff c·c lion ate cm brace, the knife ascended and descended, and the encounter would terminate in Puckcoo's being knocked off his legs into a geyser of muddy and bloody water, from which he would emerge thoroughly soaked, temporarily blinded, gasping for breath. only perhaps to be knocked down again as another whale caml' along and collided with his legs. It was amusement for us. but death to the whales, a reflection that to live ourselves wL h.1J to cause suffering and death to helpless animals and m~mmals .. \Ve killed eleven whales, and after securing them w1th o~r Imes, towed. them to the Fort on the following fore­ noon tide. The Esqu1maux and Indians got paid for them all.

~ur on! y coinage at Churchill was a wooden stick about fiw mches long. % inch wide and y,;: inch thick, made out of o~k staves a~~ br~nded w~:h the figure one. These sticks rep­ r~srnted ?ur .\!;1(:c: Beaver and as furs, oil, ivory were traded, tr,,: Vd1,~or received an ocular demonstration of h' Ith Tl E · 1s wea . 1i? sq~1maux count up to ten. In buying bags of seal oil, the _Esquima~x had, at one time, to produce the seal noses on a st1ck or stnng to show how many "blubbers " were contame· d

212 therein in good faith. In their innocence - though the :first hypothesis of criminal intent-some began to imagine that we could not possibly notice anything wrong if they showed a few, just a few, extra noses. As we had a good idea, however, of how many "blubber" would fill any sized bag, a too generous display resulted in drastic rejection, ever to the delight of the culprits themselves, at being so cleverly found out. Their simple amazement at our knowledge was genuine, disarming all rancour on our parts. They were children, treated accordingly, and not to their hurt.

213 CHAPTER LII

Fort Occurrences, 18 8 7/8

\ \r. \ hm .1t returned from Marble Island on the 4th :\u:,.:ust with good returns. They took thirteen d~ys going to \ !Jrbk Island on account of the ice, but escaped mishaps. The ··Prince Rup,·n·· hove in sight 26th August, 1887, and anchored in 1!J,, ri\'cr on the 27th. Captain William Barfield was in di,Hgl', Capt.1in Hawes was chief m.He ..10d a young apprentice clerk. I .uquhar i\ btheson, was bound for the Factory. Cap­ uin Barfidd w.1s .1 jolly sea-rover, and he gained my goodwill when he disclusnl the fact that my liquor cases from Stromness, de•qiitL' the injunction not to be shipped. were in his cabin. Y,·s1r, .1ft,·nvards 1:arquhar Matheson recognized me on the wharf ,1t Van(,,uvl'r, B.C., on his way to Cassiar via Victoria. Once .1~.1;.1in I met him in the Victoria Hotel. and was sorry to lw,u later of his death ,1l Fort Wrangel. Alaska, where he had gone in business for himself. Captain Hawes was a welcome visitor. One \',1lued gift was landed (besides the Scotch), viz. 13 volumes of The >rational Encyclopaedia from Dr. Alexander .'.\ilnc. which gavc me grl'aL joy. I had commented to him on l he :~rc·.H difficulty one met with at Churchill in following up rdcr,·11c,·, to p.uticular subjects in one's reading. His father h.1d presented him with the set on his successfully passing his medical exams. at Marischal College, Aberdeen, and the Doctor, writing home. bad them forwarded to me, recognizing my need w.1s ·~r.:Jta than his. I have them still. and when in 1926 I visited Dr ..\lilne in Aberdeen, "fought all our battles o'er ,1gain" and was taken through the historic college, he probably did not rc:-1lize the life-long reminder and satisfaction he had given me of the place and himself. Non Oblitus. Neither the joyou_s_ trip be and his good wife gave my wife and me to beautitul and entrancing Braemar. What a contrast it was with fine weather and wonderful scenery, to our first meetin~ on bleak. desolate Cape Churchill at the wreck of the "Cam Owen". Oct. 30th: Traded with 18 Chippewyans. Mooneas reports that_ the remams of the "Cam Owen" have at last disappeared, earned away by the ice. "Vale".

214 CHAPTER LIU

1887 - Samples of Hunting

The Winter of 1886 7 was my best for trapping. I caught 19 6 foxes and a wolverine. Most of them were caught in ice traps. deadfalls, as with steel traps the captured foxes oftimes gnawed their frozen foot off and escaped. In the Fall, before the ground froze, it was the practise to go over our individual limits and drive stakes in the ground, to guide the deadfall stick, which. weighted with other sticks or driftwood crosswise. and released by a wooden upright trigger, fell and broke the animal's back. When ice formed we made the hos or sides. back and top of ice slabs, behind those now immovable stakes. protecting the bait on a pointed stick, held in place by pressure of the deadfall on the upright trigger, from any approach save thro' the front door. My biggest catch was eight foxes in one day, one having a rat trap on his foot. The seven-year periodical peak of production is very notice­ able in the case of white foxes, and I see by my notes that the disease was still prevalent among our dogs, as if bearing out my former suggestion or hypothesis that the dogs contracted the disease from fox meat, when too heavily and continuous! y fed on carcasses. After years of plenty, Nature adjusted her balance by disease, starvation, migration (just as recorded in the Bible of ancient fluctuations of plagues), famine and wars to retain her equilibrium. All furs caught by us had to be traded-a la Indian-according to agreement, but in this case I was able to have the amount of Made Beaver transferred to my account at a very moderate rate oB exchange. Once more packet time, so on the 17th January, Joseph Morris, George Oman and myself-I had practically killed the superior economic idea of having to take the place of a tripper in my chiefs mind by this time-started for the Factory. We saw more reindeer on the Plains than usual. While I have not narrated much killing of game, it is because it was a matter of daily occurrence for existence, hence we did not look on pro­ viding ourselves with animal. bird and fish foods-country

215 produce-as sport. Too oft~n we. had to h.unt with J ~erious­ ness almost painful. in our intensity to satisfy the cravings of our stomachs. Jnd while \H were on the verge of really hard rimes ffil'rc frequently tbJn we desired, Le Bon Dicu always hclped us out. One Spring \Ir. Spencer had to send every. man out of the Fort. with thc exception of old Sam Grey, with not a morsel ,,t food. having none to giw us. and only tea and ammunition to make J st.ur on. \Ve left for Goose Lake, and I remember our ha\'ing brl·.11'.fast off a solitary pannikin of sugarless tea in the rn:d,. leading to the L1h.c. We were putting our kettles back on the sleds when we heard the honk. honk of the first goose, .ind we scattered .1longside the ice-covered (May) creek. When the goose h, 1\·l· in sight and range, he received an uproarious salute ,1f \\·dcome, and never knew from whence came the .shnw,·r of lead. The wonder is that it was eatable. In a minute, l1<1w,·\·er, that goose was plucked, cooked, and we had a real brr.1\..f.1'>l. By \Vednesday, three days afterwards, we had sent 50 geese to the Fort. and God was in His Heaven once more and .111 was well. Therc was always something to shoot, reindeer, ptarmigan, ducks. swans. geese, plover, redshanks, and none of us ever went without a gun. as a prowling polar bear, wolverine or wolf might be met with. We would as soon have left our beloved tc.1 and tobacco behind. Y ct, while I have stated we did not hunt f()r sport. trapping afforded us a thrill or two,. when we :,:, ,t t .1nglcd up with wolves and wolverines, especially the latter. ·1 akc this entry for example: "Nov. 3rd, 1887. Caught two white foxes. shot three partridges. Coming up saw a wolf's trad. fr,,m Cockle\ Point, crossing my down track, with mark of dragging stick and trap. Followed up at a run, and after thr.:c-quartcrs of an hour ran the wolf down, among the bluffs and rocks below St:a Horse Gully. I shot him. He belongs to .\ lr. Sp_enccr-t~apper's law. Weighed 125 pounds. Fur was a b_..::rnt1ful red tinged ~rey and white colour. Jamie and Sandy arrived from Lakes with 100 fine large whitefish." . One Fall, on the 1st October, I looked out of my back ,~mdow and thought a sn~wstorm had occurred during the night. The_ ground was white all along the marsh. But it was only ,'.,,Jrnagan, and for nearly three weeks they squatted. One Saturday afternoo~ four men and myself went out for an hour and came back wtth 250 birds, all we could carry. I killed

216 seven with one shot, three unseen in, the direct line of fire, on that o_ccasion. Then whir, and they were all gone, with the exceptio~ of _a few stragglers, to new fields to carry on the work of equalization Nature had ordained them to. Our Cost of Maintenance Sheet showed over 6,000 ptarmigan killed that season_. The favorite hunting ground for ptarmigan was among the willows and creeks, across the river from Mosquito Point, and extending to an island called "Never Fails". The latter had derived its name, many years back, from the fact that if ptarmigan were not around the Fort or the creeks leading to Go.ose Lake, they never failed to be met with here, and many a time we had reason to be thankful for that continuity. Two men were generally employed to hunt the creeks in the Winter, and every Fall before the ice formed and snow covered the ground they were sent up to gather a supply of sand and gravel for the Winter's operations. It is difficult for ptarmigan to get gravel to aid their digestive organs in the Winter, so we took advantage of this knowledge and their desire to get breakfast on coming out of their snow burrows. When Winter set in snow was cleared off the frozen creeks. and a pile of gravel-sand substituted in convenient willow­ bordered open spaces. A square net was stretched on four stout poles, set up and supported by another shorter stick, to which a strong string was attached, leading behind the secret shelter of the willows. The hunters camped in the fringe of woods nearby. About daybreak it was their business to start out on snowshoes and beat the willows by throwing short sticks to alarm the birds. This started them flying in the direction of the sand pile, and as they had been allowed to accustom them­ selves, previous to starting steady hunting, to feed thereon under the net, they naturally followed their subconscious training and headed for the trap. A final detour of the men brought them to the end of the string, and watching their opportunity to make the largest haul, they jerked the prop away and impounded the birds. I have seen a couple of hundred caught in one haul. and on rare occasions the number was so great that they managed to lift the net, and many escaped. The process of killing them w~s simple. The men ass~med th: character of terriers, and mpped the heads off the birds thro the meshes of the net with their teeth. By this method of trapping much valuable ammunition was sawd. The rest. of the day was spent in plucking the birds, the feathers beco111;mg the prerequisites of the men, who traded them later. The birds

217 were brought to the Fort on sleds at the end of the week, ~rozen of course. If there were too many, the balance was left m the brush t,'nt or camp till Monday. On one occasion WL' lost the balance as a wolverine helped himself by c.ur\' ing aw ,1 y and caching the dead birds, rendering them useless to man or dog by the odor of its effluvia, as belonging to the skunk family. It is rather int~rcsting to note that most .rn imals have their diminutives. For instance: beaver .rnd muskrat. fisher and martin. otter and mink. wolverine and skunk. wolf and fox. tiger and cat, rat and mouse, etc. Hunting the Arctic hare was real sport, however. and the suc(css of getting one depended on much stalking, patience and r>b\c'rv .ll i\)11 Seldom was one shot on first discovering his track and sunning-place, under a rock or cliff. Their hearing was acute in the resonant. rarified air. and the crackling crust of snow under our snowshoes disturbed the toilet and warned chem of danger. When the hunter arrived the hare might be miles away. going like the proverbial greased lightning. There was no use waiting for his return. Hours would elapse before he doubled on his tracks. So from day to day, or at intervals ()i two or three days. the hunter would test his skill of silent advance. knowing the sunning lair and course of flight, till finally .1 \h\ ,1 provided the long-looked-for treat of roasted hare. These Arctic hare wrn: not numerous around Churchill. but :iffordccl a zest and change from tamer pursuits from their rarity. ' The whitl' owl (Strix Nyctra), beside being good to eat, was rather a difficult bird to get a shot at, as the white plumage harmonized too well with the snow-laden trees to be discovered. :\t Goose Lake. Adam Collin showed me how to draw the owl from his aerie. He made an imitation mouse or terning out of a piece of hairy deerskin, stuffing it with a little pine brush, and attaching a long piece of string. The end of the string was tied to the L' Assomption Belt. Walking well out on the snow­ covered lake ( not a very large one) , he made the circuit of the sbor.?:lined w~ods wi~~ the dark artificial terning trailing bait, bobbmg over mequaltt1es. some distance behind him. By and by a tug wo.uld be felt, and turning round, the owl would be shot .as he tned to get away with his supposed breakfast. This trollmg ~f owls was exciting, and invariably proved successful. our ~~1te capo~s and leggings camouflaging our dangerous proximity to their prey. The Indians set small rat traps, baited, on the stumps of trees and caught the owls therein.

218 On this same Goose Lake I had one of the toughest meals I ever attempted to eat. It was during the Winter the "Ocean Nymph" was frozen it:. We had been hunting geese in May, a1:d on Saturday mornmg sent our whole week's hunt by sleds with the men to the Fort. Captain Hawes, Adam Collin and I remained behind _in camp to await the return on Monday. As we expected to kill a goose or two, we thought it unnecessary to retain a goose for Sunday's dinner, but the weather was bad and evening arrived without our getting one in our stands. Adam was therefore sent along the edges of the lake to see if he could get some ptarmigan. He was unsuccessful. but at dusk managed to shoot two eagles. We tackled them the next day. as the weather remained unfavorable, confining us to camp. We were surprised at the smallness of their bodies, but their legs were larger in proportion, and looked tempting enough till we tried to eat them. We might have as easily attempted to make a meal off telephone galvanized wires, the sinews were so many and strong. We had perforce to be contented with cake and tea that day. t have eaten polar and black bear, foxes, wolves. tender as mutton after feeding on deer, beaver, porcupine, owls. everything in the shape of birds save seagulls and ravens, and can promise them not bad, but those eagles beat us. and I have never hankered for a taste of them again. There is one unhappy recollection which can be placed alongside the eagle feast. Before the "Ocean Nymph" reached Churchill in 1883, we were reduced to stern rations. Mrs. Spencer was away, otherwise a catastrophe might not have hap­ pened. Mr. Spencer rooted around his pantry shelves and one day came across a small packet marked "Camomile Tea". Where it came from originally he did not know, but it was probably a private importation made by his predecessor, Charles John Griffin, and lost sight of till our shortage of tea, etc .. warranted attention to it. We had sampled the indigenous "Labrador Tea", which is a fair substitute in time of need. but this new discovery promised something in the nature of an exceptional treat, and was not lightly to be disregarded, for where the name of tea was always, in that land of few varied drinks, pleasant anticipations. So Mr. Spencer made a noble hot brew, and despite its bitter taste-tea being tea and too valuable to be thrown away-we drank. We :finished it, and it :finished us. One might call it a draw, anyway I draw a veil over the result. No more eagle, no more Camomile Tea. Wood reindeer of the larger variety than the Barren Ground

219 York species. were generally seen between Cape Chu~chill and and Factory. and when travelling along the coast m Summer and Fall. were sure to be met with, as the mosquitoes, bull-dogs water sand flies drove them to seek the comforting effects of salt sea breezes, and also taste of salt grass herbage. The beach­ ~he ridges. which we followed when possible on account of ram. firmer foothold. the lime. formed by camp fires and as betr:iying the stratum underneath, were admirabl! for cover, the the drift logs thereon made humans less conspicuous to take animals. At noon-time exactly, nearly all wild animals a siesta. and this fact aided us often in getting our dinner, we despite the sentinel standing guard during the recess, as right could calculate just where they would lie down at the time. and go in hiding ourselves. The reindeer depend on their scenting powers more than their eyesight. I have seen a deer which had observed David Dick try to get to leeward of him, and although safety could h.w.: been secured by running away in the opposite direction, the the animal had to s,1tisfy itself first, with the result that other deer and David were within half a dozen yards of each was and nearly at our camp when David killed it. A deer the nt ,t iced in Broad River Bight on the sea flat beach, and wind was blowing along the coast or ridges. He was slowly the moving to the actual shore line and would have to cross a log, rid~c. so desiring to experiment, I lay down behind \Vast,',WH1t being a long way behind hunting ducks. For 15 the minutes or more I did not make a movement, but watched on anin1.1l. He would graze a bit, then advance. Finally and reaching the ridge he caught my scent, gave one big jump head was off full speed for the woods in the distance, with his of up and antlers lying along his back. This is their means branches, g0in_g through the woods, escaping being caught by of for if the nose and forehead pass, the antlers are well in line protection. The raised head also puts the nostrils in a better deer position to scent to windward and locate danger. That by the wind, was ova _1.000 yards away before my scent, borne instantan­ crnss.:d htS path, and the recognition of danger was e~us. It wa~ a perfect retreat, as there was nothing to alarm the h~m otherw1s~. The n_ext day I saw a deer dancing in as if feeling dtstance. that IS he was Jumping and capering about good. Whether Wastesecoot was serious in bis remark or belief, hes 'd "Oh' h k . . . I do not know · but at , . e nows be 1s gomg to die 220 and wants to enjoy himself while life lasts." He died alright. and supplied us with needed food. Cape Churchill was a great place for Polar bears, and many advent~res took place. David Dick was nearly killed by a she­ bear with two cubs, whose protective instincts were intensified by the danger to her family. His musket missed fire at a critical moment and he was badly mauled. The Rev. George Winter, in company with James Begg, half-breed, and Henry Stagg. Cree, were chased round the campfire at Partridge Creek and had a narrow escape from a starving bear. David Dick and Joseph Morris once chased a Polar bear on snowshoes to their camp near Seal River, till the bear tired out, refused to go further and lay down, whereupon they kicked him to get up, and had to shoot him when he refused to stir. William Too­ toosh and his brother Benjamin played in like manner with a bear on Broad River Plain. With an Indian on each side of him, distracting his attention in attack of one or either by prodding him in the rump with their gun barrels whenever he made a specific charge, it was fun for the Indians but subsequent death to the bear. Ouligbuck told me a story of an Esquimaux woman who, chased by a white bear, took off her sealskin mitten and rammed it on the point of her useless gun in the bear's throat, and as the grain of the sealskin prevented ejection, the bear suffocated and died. Ouligbuck afforded a good example of his intelligence and power of observation. Having shot a deer a short distance from camp, he sent two of the Oman boys to haul or drag it in on the snow. As they did not appear in reasonable time, Buck started to find out the cause of delay, and came upon the boys hauling the deer by the hind legs against the grain of the fur of course, making slow and decidedly hard work of it. Buck's exclamation and lesson in natural history was illumina­ tive. "Damn it. wherever did you see a deer walk stern first. Take him by the head and forelegs, and haul with the grain." In this reversal, the deer became a temporary sled in itself. In "The Big Game of North America", edited by G. 0. Shields, Rand McNally and Company, publishers, 1890, I shared with Serjeant Francis Long in an article, "The Polar Bear", unknowingly, for twelve years, having written a few notes for a friend on my arrival in Winnipeg. Anyone desiring full informat~on. of the. fauna of the Hudson Bay region with all the sc1ent1fic findings and names

221 can be accommocfated in the Report No. 22 on North American Fauna by Edward A. Peble of the Biographical Survey, U.S. Department of Agriculture, I 902. Mr. Peble made a successful one~season trip to the Barren Grounds from York Factory, giving credit to the Company for their reliable transport arrangements. The Reports, also, of the Geological Survey of Canada, observers Bell, Dawson, Tyrell, Low, etc., can also be studied 1,·r full k.nowledge of geology, botany and fauna.

222 CHAPTER LIV

In Charge of Churchill

We started building a much needed men's house. Burnt lime for the chimneys, made soap, repaired skiffs, overhauled Marble Island boats, cleaned Blubber House, set up wharf at Whale Station, rafted firewood and laid ropes, chains and anchors for whale net. On the 26th July Mr. Mowat arrived from York, and Mr. Spencer and his family departed two days later to relieve our Chief, who was taking a year's furlough to Scotland. Mr. Mowat left for Marble Island on the 30th, and I was in charge. The whale fishing resulted in a catch of 102 white whales. Mr. Mowat, returning from Marble Island, was driven past the mouth of the river on the 17th August in a gale. They had to anchor in Rubaboo Bay and ride out the storm. Both boats, the "Laperouse" and the "Dolphin", after slipping their anchors, which were never recovered, entered the river at dusk on the 19th. The "Prince Rupert" anchored on the 20th, with good old Captain Barfield. We had a merry busy time before he sailed, and I have a pleasant picture in my memory of his visit to the Master's house, and of him dancing around before breakfast with the lather for shaving all over his jolly good­ looking face, his suspenders hanging behind his pants, razor in hand, and singing lustily "Oh'. What a Jolly Place Is England" and the chorus, in which I joined uproariously. One valued gift he left me was a bucket of potatoes, out of the ship's supplies, secured from the South of France before leaving England, and which was reserved for a treat on Christmas Day. With the "Prince Rupert" went Mr. Mowat for the Factory, Mr. and Mrs. Lofthouse, Marjory and Alice, bound for England. Mrs. Lofthouse was in very bad health and so susceptible to sea-sickness that Captain Barfield refused to attempt taking her home on the ship, as in her condition she would have assuredly died. On arrival at York, Mr. and Mrs. Lofthouse, little Marjorie and Alice had therefore to undertake the arduous journey up-river to Winnipeg, go to New York 223 and cross the ,\tlantic by st:.1mcr. Tl,1c ncx_t tim.c I sa:w_ ~he Rev. J. 1.l1fthouse was as Bishop of I\.ccwatm, \\'.hen v1s1tmg \'i.:toria. B.C. ..1ftLr the death of his wife and married daughter. As I piloted tbe nsscl out of the river, and looked back on th.: bleak. barren, rocky coast, shrouded in drizzling mist, and thought of the long lonely winter ahead of me, for the first and ta~r time I felt homesick, and was tempted sorely to desert bv cutting till' rope which bound the pilot-boat to the vessel. :\t that moment I did not feel like the king I was supposed to be. all-powerful. with my subjects to do me .obeisance. Nor like a ministc'r to cheer and save souls, nor like a doctor to .,,,, ,1 h.: physic,1! p,1 in, rwr like a professor to cloud another's int cl kd by thL·ories and unknown quantities of knowledge. The schoolm.1<;1l·r was to become very much abroad. Judge, J.1ck of ,111 trades. master of none, everything was incorporated in my person. Ego was supreme, but I could not desert :,,. \i(awbcr and miss the opportunity of serving iny dear lousy f ricnds who clcpc1Hkd on me, so I pulled for the shore. Game was not p.1rticularly abundant that Winter. The fishing at the bkes failed, and on 22nd December our men came back witb .. ut a single fish. The Dicks arrived hard up, and I h.1d nothing for our Christmas dinner. I got old one-armed Dick in and off cred him inducements to try and get me a beaver from Goose Lake. He succeeded, and returned on Christmas mnrning with our honne bouche, and all was well. I had impnn.:d tor~ for a Christmas tree, so the kiddies had a glorious 1 imc. with a real Santa Claus and his wife coming over the ~now-covered rocks. drcs,cd in furs, muskox robes, wolves, W<•lwrines (as pants), dogs with jingling bells harnessed to the slc'.d bearing the tree, Aurora Borealis-"the Merry Dancers" of Orkney-spreading the ribbons of superb coloring in the clear blue sky. to welcome their arrival, and above all a tea kettle of "':·ccties hanging to Santa's belt, with his frying pan as a sounding cymbal to attract attention. It was 52 below zero without doors, but a warm happy gathering within. Sam G~cy. was Santa and Sandy Gibeault his wife. Ten or :fifteen sh1llmgs worth. of toys went a long way in those days and returned heavy mterest on money invested. This is. a fitting place to record on paper how a young Scotchman m charge of an outpost, alone at Christmas with a b~ttle of _treasured Scotc~. hi5 o_nly white servant being away ,,1th Ind11c1,. showed his upbringing and saved his honour.

224 The toasts of "A Merry Christmas" and "Absent Friends" had to be_ drunk. To drink alone was intolerable, against all moral teachmgs and ethics of a gentleman and officer. It would indicate a deplorable lack of control, make an opening for a descent to Avernus, with untold misery and degradation. Also selfishness, lack of good fellowship and annul the joy of antici­ pation and goodwill. A tough problem in life, with the hoarded spirit, so near and yet so far. There is always a way out of difficulties to the Hudson Bay man, and the Scotch mind was not to be beaten. After prolonged study of ways and means, he brought his cracked looking-glass and set it before him, with the bottle, hot water and molasses ( no sugar) . Filling his tin pannikin, he looked into his mirror, raised his arm and, his counterpart doing likewise, he toasted his other self with a "Here's tae ye McTavish". The reply "Here's tae yerself" was both apt and literal. And if McTavish was not the real name, it might have been McDonald, McDougall, McKenzie or some other Mac-it was Scotch anyway. So the end was gained, absent friends remembered, the McTavish had a jovial time and, best of all, honour was saved and satisfied by duplication and brain work. 19th January, 1889. Deerhunters brought me one deer, weighing 45 pounds, the first this season. Truly we must be thankful for small mercies. I do not think we could get a smaller one. I undertook the keeping of meteorological records during Mr. Spencer's absence, and it proved very interesting work, especially when opening the pantry double window, and then the door of the case containing the thermometers, the mercury would fly up with a bounce and I would have to wait till it cooled off again so that I could get a correct reading by means of the bull's eye lantern, part of the equipment. Spirit thermo­ meters, when the mercury froze, had to be used with ice coatings. The anemometer was placed on the top of the kitchen, exposed to the North wind, and had to be read at 10 p.m ... for some ten or fifteen minutes, to get the average hourly wmd. The climbing up a snow-covered roof. and standing in a precarious position on the ridge in 5 0 degrees below zero weather, with the wind or blizzard doing its best to blow the legs from under one, was no joke. Faithfully I carried out the work, and accurately followed my instructions. till it dawned on me that though I would have to read the daily run of the 225 't, l cotild cn1age the velocity of the revolving cups 1n.:mom, ,r o.· b k · d f ·. l } It 'r of the buildings or snow- an s, mstea o t r0m t 1c s 1e 1.: 1 · hanging on like an icicle for fifteen awful. ong mmut~s, exposed to the gales. I rc:illy paid a penalty f~r honesty. m · · k' t "t so long To remain honest, I practised watching SllC 1111': 0 l ' • ' h ' th.: r,'\~lutions 0f the cups from the ground m dayhg t, g~mg up the roof and checking results, till I be~ame a pr<;>ficient diagnoscr 0 f wind speed fro?-1 a_ glance, without ha~mg ~o sacrifice n.v;.1\ cuticle. by staying m the heavens full time, m ihe interest of science. I got great credit for the accuracy of :the r<'c, ,r,!, from the Toronto office, and when I went to Cassiar, B.C.. in 180(), Lieut. Gordon forwarded me a complete obser~a­ tion set. b.1wml'tn included, to ascertain temperatures, ram­ t'.111. ('{( ;\ l y nomadic Ii fr prevented me from carrying out this \p.:cific intention. but in 1892 I established the ~ourth paid recording st.1tion in B.C., at Rivers Inlet. The instruments were !.it,·r forwarded to Port Simpson, when the record of Riwr~ Inlet practically was finished, over a course of seven or eight years. What with trading with the Esquimaux, Chippewyans and Crees. and doing all the office work, I had my hands full. In my term of office I had to bring a Chippewyan out of a fit with a sniff from a bottle of compound spirits o~ ammonia so expeditiously that I was classed as an Al "Medicine Man" by his relatives and onlookers. These had been pulling his hair, k~:,. arms. etc .. to exorcise the devil before my arrival, without success. The cure, luckily for my reputation, had no bad effect. 1\notlia case was setting Chilias's broken leg, broken between the thigh and knee. I had heard of doctors' splints but had no conception of their actual silape, so I got the carpenter to make some stout ,trir, of wood, or lathes, and getting the bone in p,.lsition somehow. bound them round the limb with the fixed­ ness of cement. I then strapped the bandaged leg in splints to a stout board, the length of the whole limb, so that ·he could not move it. and warned the Indians to keep him stretched out for a month at least. Providence was kind to us all and Chilias ha_d .little or no deformity when discharged from his wigwam. W h1le we had to do our best in cases of emergencies like these, one felt one's incapability and the want of even a first-aid trainin;. a course which all officers, in my opinion, should take before undertaking outpost duty. Nature, given fair play, was

226 the master healer. The Indians themselves are good anatomists from their continued practise in dissecting wild animals and birds. The only other amputation case I remember was when Mr~. ~ayham, with the Mayham and Dicks, camped one Sprmg m the Eastern W cods. In preparation for the goose­ hunting below Knightshill Beacon, three women started one day with poles to be deposited where they intended to pitch their tents, no wood being procurable for that purpose nearer hand. They left the shelter of the woods, and hauled their hand-sleds over a barren snow-plain to the coast, the beacon later guiding their movements. Having deposited the poles, they set out on their return, when one of those frequent blizzards sprang up and enveloped them in a stinging, whirling drift. Two of the women managed to reach the woods by good luck. but Mrs. Mayham, the oldest woman, lost her direction and wandered till she fell exhausted in a drift. She had the sense to set her toboggan on end as a slight wind-break before the snow covered her. There was no chance of the men finding her in the blizzard, visibility being negligible. They made an attempt, of course, only to be compelled to seek safety them­ selves. Early next morning the storm abated, and they spread themselves in search. Finally the toboggan was seen and the rescue accomplished. Mrs. Mayham had her feet and legs badly frozen. Snow and salt were immediately applied on reaching the camp, away from the fire, to take the frost out of her limbs. We assisted in sending her to the doctor at York, where several toes were amputated, and I brought her back in one of the Marble Island boats in July, little the worse of her narrow escape from freezing to death. Only the friendly blanket covering of snow saved her. There were few records like Mrs. Mayham's-in fact, her's was the only case I heard of. Risks from freezing we ran in plenty, but we came out of them by good fortune, perhaps by the use of practical common sense and belief in ourselves to overcome difficulties, trusting not so much to God as in the brains He gave us to use intelligently. Having heard no word of my applfed le~ve of a~sence, I wrote Mr. Spencer with the January mail for mformat10?-, ~nd was surprised when he replied that no record of s.uc~ apphcat10n could be traced in official letters to the Comm1ss10ner. I had only made a verbal request to our Chief, and it was in accord-

227 ancc with his harrowing process of underlings that he had side­ tr.1ekl·d it. So I sent in a written request this time. \ 1r John i\ low.H .1rriwd from the Factory in the "Flora" on 17th Juh·. Mr. Spencer, his family, with good Bishop Hordcn. turn.cd up on the 2-fth. and on the 28th Inspector James McDougall followed at mid-day. He informed me that my kaw had been granted, and I was to proceed to Winnipeg next day-Monday. I told him it could not be done, as I had to gl'l the ~ brbk Island boats off and the accounts ready for him, l't(~ I ,n~rhd like a nigger all night, Mr. McDougall occupied my bed. and on Monday got Mr. Mowat off with the three b~ats. the "Laperouse", "Dolphin" and "Flora", with Meelook in a r1t·w boat, quite a respectable fleet from my initial command. On Tuesday morning I was still' at my desk when McPherson came in and said the waiting boat would ground and lose the tide if I did not come right away. I flung my keys on my table, seized my dunnagc bag. into which I had been intermittently ,1()\ving travelling wordly possessions, left a note to Mr. Mowat tn pack and take charge of my impedimenta till I could send him word where to send them, and was out of my little cabin within 40 hours of the time I received my walking orders. I may mention here that I got my cassette, guns and certain cases thus kt t behind in the Fall of 1892 at Victoria. They had followed me to Alaska and been returned to Victoria. For a long time the walrus hide label on my cassette was a constant rt·rnindcr of my departure and severance from my friends, Esquimaux, Crees, Chippewyans and Fort people. Then some­ u11L· stoic it on the Skeena River. The cassette, dovetailed in the old fashion. without a nail in its construction is still in evidence .. So. cndetb ~he lesson on the constancy of' friendship, even of mammate things, and thei pleasure these old relics give o_f ~cver-to-b.e-forgotten days. Days never to be reproduced in s11_111lar expenen_ces, for the steel rails of the iron horse are being la~d to Churchill as I write, in 1928, and the former things v:·il_l. ra.ss to make room for the juggernaut of despising c1v1hzat1on.

228 CHAPTER LV

Closing the Record -Transportation

. I shot my last deer at Charles Cairns en route to the Factory, whteh was reached Saturday, 3rd August, 1889. Our Chief had returned via the Hayes River route, and did not ask me into his house, so I must have been a miserable sinner. But I had a couple of days in the old guardroom with Dr. Milne, Farquhar and John Ross. John Ross worked for me years after at Rivers Inlet, B.C., when I was manager of two salmon canneries and a sawmill for the B.C. Canning Company, Lon­ don, England, after he returned from the Klondyke. My old friends, the Venerable Archdeacon G. S. Winter and his wife were glad to see me, and we did not meet again till April, 1927, when my wife and I stayed with them and three of their family in Bristol, England, where Father Time was treating him kindly at the age of 73 years. Mr. Crowe and family had left. (Memo.: The Chief was in a few years succeeded by Dr. Milne, and retired to Scotland, dying in 1912. Dr. Milne later became Assistant Commissioner to Mr. C. C. Chipman, with head­ quarters in Winnipeg.) With William Wood B. and John Gunn we boarded a York boat. under Massan as guide, on the 5th, and bade goodbye to the ancient landmarks. As we rounded Maggie's Point, the York Factory packet-boat from Churchill reached the launch, with Bishop Horden and Mr. McDougall. Willie Dick, ordained deacon by Bishop Harden on this occasion and after­ wards priest by Bishop Newman in 1895, died at Trout Lake about 1923/4, my first Indian fellow traveller to the Sham­ attawa, overtook us at 6 Mile Island, where we stopped for dinner (12. 3 0), with a couple of letters from Bishop Harden to mail. I am not going to describe going up Hayes River, with the excitement of tracking, rapids, portages and hard work, but from our experiences it might be appropriate to draw attention to one of the principal factors-transportation difficulties-in building and carrying out successfully the business of the Company, and the greater outcome, the opening and develop-

229 ment of the Nor' West Canada by means of the birch bark canoe and York boat. There is an opportunity for the ready writer, when .one 1 bears the crude statements about the Company s operations being merely the trading of commodities ( chie~y beads) for furs at ,10 extortionate rate of exchange, to give these con­ d.:mming commentators ,1 fuller idea of the infinite labour which the Company's transport entailed on its people; the devising of the craft, building, manning and navigating. Chief Factor \Viison had a scheme of putting a river steamer on the Hayes River. and the tradition isi that the failure of_ it finished him. Chief Factor Rodk. McFarlane used to pomt to the in trod uct il)ll of steam on the Athabasca with pride. \\'l1<·n the Hudson's Bay Company. inl the course of years, \'rntured to extend their operations inland from the coast, wh·rL· they ~Jt tight for so long, the Nor' Westers giving them a filip of enterprise, the conveyance that came ready to their hand was the Indian birch bark canoe, the model which the present clay tr.1wlkrs have been content to copy in the Peter­ boro' canoe. I got the following measurements of the Great :\(lrth canoe from a man, George W. McLeod, who was born at Moose Factory, the home of the canoes, supplemented by information from ;\lr. Allan Nicholson, for over 40 years in the Southern Department, chiefly at Rupert's House, now retired and living in Victoria with his wife, the daughter of the well-known missionary. Archdeacon Vincent. Length. 3 2 feet; breadth, 6 feet; depth, 2 feet. The bark was 111.1rLcd. cut and rolled as it was pulled off the birch tree, and the inside of the bark formed the outside of the canoe, with a_ \m,iuth,r surface resistance to the water in consequence. A light fr.rn1ework of cedar, with thin cedar curved sheeting ribs, or broad laths, made for strength and stability. The birch bark rolls are sewed with wattape, the fibrous root of the pine tree, th~ needle, the ubiquitary Indian awl, used for making ~rforat1ons, and pitch, i.e., black spruce gum, processed by the Jaws ?f the squaws, and sometimes men, covered the seams. Chewing gum was therefore an ancient art. The stem and ste~ were curved to protect bowsman, steerman and cargo from curling waves of rapids or lake storms, adding to the buoyancy of the craft also. The paddles were all of six feet and the crew numbered six India ns or w h'ites. The carrying· ' capacity· was 4,200 pounds, and the voyageurs' extra baggage an allow•

230 a.nee of 100 pounds each. plus regales or prov1s10ns. The lightness of the canoe itself-easily portaged by two men­ contributed largely to its efficacy as a means of transport, and few water vessels retain the glamour of its progress, as the C_anadian world unfolded before its penetrating influences. The birch bark canoe will ever remain the symbol of romance, and can raise more sentiment and desire in a boy's breast than almost anything else, for does it not relate to redskins, painted feather-head decorated Indians, warpaths, scalps, tortures borne with the stoic endurance taught by painful process of warrior­ making dances, as education to resist the jeers of their captors, running rapids, portaging, campfires, the embodiment of free action and hair-breadth escapes. But while canoes were the pioneer craft, they had soon to be superseded for freighting purposes by boats of far larger carrying capacity, stoutly built for rough usage, yet with some­ thing of the characteristic points of the light and buoyant canoe, to meet all the varied conditions of up-river travel, so the York boat was built and became the standardized model, which has stood the test of time for a full century, and, at the present day, is still in service where steam vessels cannot ply. The York boat was introduced by Sir George Simpson-John Company was a pretty poor affair until its advent. It came in with the coalition, when the warring elements of the fur trade -Nor' West Co. and the H.B. Co.-buried the hatchet and settled down to business. The regular supply of the interior posts seems to have been the first consideration. It had need to be, for up to that time it was a matter of chance if supplies would reach their destination. A fine schedule of brigades of freight boats for all posts marked the beginning of a new epoch. The crews of Scotsmen, Orkney and Shetland men formed an object lesson and an example to the natives, who were not slow to profit by it, and took to transport work like ducks to water. Anyone can picture the contrast from the evil old days of rum raiding amongst the Indians to fair trading, and tiding them over the off-season with remunerative labor. It is the York boat which holds premier place as a civilizing influence amongst the aborigines, leading to peace and contentment in the Nor' West. Daniels, an artist, made a series of aquatint sketches of Orkney in 1819. I saw one at Stromness (Longman's 1820) which showed three or four fishing1 boats, and it can be easily realized from whence the Orkney boat builders derived their

231 with the mock! fl1r the York boat. The contour is identical, fishing Jl,ublc ends plainly in \'icw. The construction. of thes~ withstand boats would be naturally of much stouter matcnal to maelstrom the gales common to that seabound coast and the waters of the Pentland Firth. The York boat was undoubtedly first built at York Factory, built, hrn.::c the name York boat. The boat was carvel fashion, but naturally the last two strokes were put on clinker structure but iwr .1lw.ws. The clinker stiffened the boat's upper better, m,1tcri.1lh·, a~d the clinker seams withstood the weather exposed to the sun, as rh ,r lending themselves to open up when me with in r he' caulked .::.1rvcl seams. Dr. Milne has furnished with salient facts. 1 he measurements and refreshed my memory a taxi cab, "It i~ a far cry from careening thro' London City in a mighty to the trmlinc of a York boat on the Steel River, and a fur trade post, c()nrr.1<;{ from the new Hudson's Bay House to I have to but you ask me for more details about the boat, and give you them. for your perusal in so different an environment when you to what yuu were wont to see the Yark boat in. So and gaze ,·i,it the Company's new fur warehouse in London don't on the carving of the ketch "Nonsuch" over the doorway, fnrgl'l the other era ft. feet: The general dimensions of the boat were: keel, 28 across the hc.1m across the floor, 4 feet 6 inches, and 6 feet like a scow). gun'-'· ll.llcs. The boat was fiat-bottomed (but not 4 feet both sh.1rp at hath ends. with an overhang of about 6 inches fo~,, and aft. The keel was 8 inches deep in all, 1 inch, being cl~ar of the garboard strake, the planking or at hand-whip sawn boards--every board in York Factory a trifle the posts was hand-whip sawn-planing reducing them natural tree un,!a the inch. The skeleton timbers were from cr?oks. o~ roo.ts, and provided strength not really commensurate posts were with their slim appearance. The stern and stem by an str..:ngthened to withstand undesired contact with rocks for the apron or deadwood. This sloping characteristic was by sa_m~ purpose, to avoid a direct blow and minimize breakage for sltdmg up or over an obstruction, and also as a convenience go what safety when a tow-line broke and the boat would a bow would b~ stern first down a rapid, as either end became 111 steersman or stern such an emergency. The bowsman and The bow' h 11 d merely reversed their own positions · s s ape repe e . :, b · · time of the l"e oiling water of the cataracts, and from the 232 inception of the York boats they traversed the rivers and lakes of the great Nor' West, from Hudson Bay North to the Arctic Ocean, Westward to the foot of the Rockies and Southward on the Red River to beyond the international boundary, and through all the years one finds but little record of mishaps of any moment. The building of a boat was supposed to take three weeks of two men's time, the cost estimated in the 80's at two hundred dollars. The freight lading was 80 pieces of 100 pounds each, four short tons. Eight men formed the crew, and besides the cargo their provisions and blankets went to make up the load. The boat was in charge of the steersman or guide, who was a man well paid and usually with a retainer, as in the case of ship's captains and mates during Winter, and the bowsman also, as being Specially skilled, had extra pay. With each boat there was a repairing kit or outfit, an olank, old canvas, axe, saw. drawing knife, nails, okum, an old frying pan with pitch, and an allowance of powder, shot, fish hooks and rabbit snare twine completed the stores to meet delays, breakdowns or other eventualities. The first part of the journey from the coast at York Factory was perhaps the severest strain-some 15 0 miles of a steady drag against a strong current. It is a pleasure to recall that on this portion of the route the voyageurs were full rationed with pork and flour. Of a morning they started early and travelled late, but Sunday was a day of rest, of sleep for the most part. One might picture a full Summer morning in the wilderness, the two boats moored by the river-side, and some 20 men sitting round on the beach, while the old guide reads a chapter from the Bible. It is not quite what the outside world looks for in the life of the old Nor' Westers, and although it is to the churches that belongs any credit for this feature, one sees in it something of a variation of the old-time ship routine, showing the river transport system to have been based on ship methods, the first freighters having been sailor men. The boats travelled in brigades, so called as always two boats at least went together, so that in specially swift water the two crews would double up to tow one boat, and where the boats had to be taken overland, whether at impassable rapids, or it might be on portages miles in length, from one watershed to another, then they could be handled by double crews without taxing the men's strength too severely. The

233 boats were of extreme lightness considering their capacity. In towing upstream half the crew had spell and ~pell about on the line. and tbe strain was not too much owing to the ~ne lines on which the boat was modelled. The method of changing crews on the' tracking line was simple. When time was up the steersman directed the bow of the boat to the bank, when the rdi.:f sprang ashore with their portage straps, and. running ahead speedily, Jttached themselves to the end of the lme. T~e others slipped their straps and, as the boats sheered out agam in the st rc'.1!11. jumped into the stern and took their siesta on the cargo. r\nyone not smJrt enough to jump into the rapidly r..-.:cding bl1.1t had to trot behind the trackers, the penalty for sk,w r1c·,, gener.:dl y grcetc

234 yet they were a source of worry to post managers. The guide would come to think of himself indispensable and be very exacting. If one would realize that he has to die, and the world will. get on very well without him, the postmaster, by trans­ ferring that thought to the guides personality, would save himself much unnecessary worry over what at times seemed unsurmountable situations. While the guides were great char­ a~ters, they were not the whole works, and it is perhaps due to the tact and experience of the superior officers that they did not sometimes get out of control. in a belief of their importance and how they could tie up the Company. John Company is still-like Johnny Walker-going strong, and the old class guides are getting fewer. The steam and gasoline age made the third epochal distinction in transportation --canoes, York boat and steamer. Three other epochs occur to me. The establishing of the fur trade in Hudson Bay (birch canoe age), the amalgamation of the Nor' West Company with the H.B. Co. (synchronizing with the introduction of the York boat), and thirdly the transfer of Rupert's Land in 1870 to the Dominion of Canada (followed by steamboats, railways, etc.). The Bay ships have ceased calling at Stromness. Captain Barfield wintered at Char1 ton 1 8 90-1. The Perseverance came to York Factory in 1891, and was probably the last vessel to call at Orkney, as the steamship Eric in 1892, commanded by Captain Aleck Gray, probably sailed from Peterhead before visiting York, Churchill, Ungava and Labrador posts. A curious misadventure at Stromness may have been the last straw to break a routine which, with steam and changed country conditions, had come to be quite objectless. The new skipper of the Perseverance brought the Moose packet box to York, the York Factory box being carried to Moose, a mistake fraught with trouble, and never heard of before or duplicated. Transportation was therefore no picnic in the good old days, but men were men and wrangled through successfully. On portions of the trail one may see carraway growing, and the botanist, at some future day, will think he has made an important discovery, but the carraway can be traced to Bonnie Scotland, and the desire of her pioneer sons to get the taste again in the luxury of adding the seeds to the ~our bannock in a distant land. A few seeds fell by the wayside, and I can vouch I saw the plants growing on our way out.

235 CHAPTER LVI

Good-Bye to the Old Life

I h.1\·.: transgressed too long on the patience of others, writin~ what might be verbose trivial details of Hudson Bay lik \\'l' .1rrivl'd at Oxford House 5 p.m. on the 19th ~ugu~t, .rnd .:\bss.111 with his crew kft for York. Mr. Cuthbert Smcla1r, j,,11 v \ll)tJ t soul. provided t hl' transportation to Norway ~ous.e, .1t1d on the 27th Norway House was reached. If my Chief did rwt take me in, Chief Factor Horace Belanger, one of the w .1rn1,'sL -hc.utcd men I have ever met, did not lightly let me i'.'' ! le hpt me for company (being a widower) while Mr. \\'illiam \\\h)d, B. and John Gunn embarked with a free trader .\lr. I [\'cr----for Winnipeg on the 2nd September. On the wol)dcd point in front of the establishment at :\ ·rw.1y House is a monument erected by his brother officers to the memory of Chief Factor Horace Belanger, who was drowned at I k1 Riva Fall of the Nelson River, October 3rd, 1892, and to the memory and. to commemorate the heroic deed in which he I,,,t hi~ own life. of Stanley Simpson, clerk, in attempting w save his loved master. The mortal remains of Stanley Simpson lie hnH:,1lli the monument. Those of Mr. Belanger arc interred at St. Boniface. Mr. Belanger was a large man and must have weighed nc.:irly, if not, 300 pounds. The rules and regulations demanded the inspection of the posts of the district b}' ih superior officer. Precedent ruled where common sense had reigned. and a Peterboro canoe was unfitted to carry the !'' •rt l ·: frame-and he paid the penalty with his life, for being t, ;, big a man physically, and mentally, in obeying orders, the Palladium of the Company. . On the 13th, Friday, Sept., 1889, the "Colville" steamed mto Selkirk near midnight and I met my :first disillusionment as before related, with the Stout, and contact with civilization'. !he 14th September saw me arrive at Winnipeg, via train, not in. the garb of old Gaul. but in the garb of the Indian or Nor' \\ (~ta.: cap~t, moccasins, straw hat (a relic of 1879), with mosquito veil. bea\~ert~en trousers, L'assomption belt, etc. I found I bad to begin life all over again, that I had to discard

236 the freed.om of old clothes, the luxury of a dirty shirt, and be dressed m conventional measured suits, starched shirts and collars, and have my feet trammelled in leather boots, that I had to learn w?at the symbols of the dollar and cent money meant'. what pnces had to be paid for the commonest purchases. I was ignorant of the necessities of my entrance into civilization. I did not know the price of a street car ride. I think it is recorded that Lord Macaulay, proficient in classical Latin, had to learn modern Italian to ascertain the price of a cab fare. I was too bashful (from the first I wanted to hide my appear­ ance behind every telephone pole), to ask how much the car fare was, so, after I got a little money, I began my education by handing the car conductor a dollar. If he gave me change I learned the price, if he kept the 95 cents I learned experience. The shoes which imprisoned my feet rendered me as helpless as a toddling child, and on two or three occasions. till my feet got accustomed to the pavements, I had to hire a hack, after becoming stranded in torment, to carry me back to my quarters in the old Northern Department offices (now demolished) from which we could see the gate of old Fort Garry. Let me quote my friend Warburton Pike to corroborate the thoughts and feelings a nomad goes through: "I am writing these concluding lines in a fashionable garret off St. James Street. Close at hand are all the luxuries that only ultra-civilization can give, and these luxuries are to be obtained by the simple method of handing over an adequate number of coins to the realm. there is no necessity to shoulder your gun and tramp many weary miles on snowishoes, before you even get a sight of your dinner in its raw state. But surely we carry this civilization too far, and are in danger of warping our natural instincts by too close observance of the rules that some mys­ terious force obliges us to follow when we herd together in big cities. Very emblematical of this warping process are the black boots into which we squeeze our feet, when we throw away the moccasins of freedom, as they gall and pinch the unaccustomed foot, so does the dread of our friends' opinion gall and pinch our minds, till they become narrow, out of shape. and unable to discriminate between reality and semblance. A dweller in cities is too wrapped up in the works of man to have much respect left for the works of God, and to him the loneliness of forest and mountain, lake and river, must ever appear but a weary desolation. But there are many sportsmen who love to be alone with Nature and the animals, far from

237 solely for the their fellowman and as this book is intended who is anxious sportsman. a fr,~. words of advice to anyone of place." tl, hunt thl' musk ox may not be out credit for such I h.nrn• Pike well. but did not give him on the teachings of thoughts-being as reticent as myself Barren Grounds ~.Hur.:-till I read the end of his book, "The he came off his trips of Northern Canada", p. 273-4. When of ''Dirty Pike'' of exploration in the \\'ilds, he earned the name club conven­ his intimate friends, from his disregard of from Bournemouth, tion.1litics and dress. On the 20th October, 1915, of the tide, with a Engl.rnd. he was found dead on the edge of the common jury knife wound in bis heart. The verdict gone back home to do w.1, that it was self-inflicted. He had health but not in his bit for the Empire, though broken in "knew not Joseph", so spirit. in the' Crl',1l War, but officialism grit in the Barren disappointment. after he had proved his the knife touched Grounds. hrukc' his stout fighting heart before country, Warburton Pike it. If ever .1 111.1n died for his love of so died. '.\:, ,t forgotten . page of life I left at .-\ t t lie age of 26 I had to take up the my living relatives. the age of 15, and to be introduced to all inferior to John, the While wmpd.:·nt in the woods, I was H.B. C:n.'s messenger boy in city life . my ignorance, .\ h :;:r.:.1ll',t fear was that I should display of if I asked the price of be bu:-:hcd ,1l a_n? taken advantage say a box of matches. When my old cwryd.1y nccc\s1t1cs, at the 1 1 secured a place for me • lm.lll'. Artb~r Robertson ·:,h•_ I was as a board of Miss Coates on Fort Street, Victoria, lc~t1w to me. fi~h out of w,Hcr. The table talk was unintelligiblei thoughts and his :\bnr a Hu?son's Bay Co.'s man hid his with its veneer soul w_hen entenn~ and encountering civilization because he found o! polish. and an intense commonness inside, 1 moribund acquired s ~arnc~tness, ~rbaps _sombre presentation !1 and misunderstood m tsolati~>n ph1losoph1es, unappreciated systematic pains~ and. so f.ailed to ~et _the credit his austere and taktng ltfe had Justified.

238 CHAPTER L VII

The Parting of the Ways

I met my father and younger sister Jessie at Pembina, and made friends with Lieutenant Andrew Rowan, who carried "The Message to Garcia" at the fort there. I had dinner at the Queen's Hotel, Winnipeg. with Archie McTavish Campbell and Mr. Robert Campbell ( died November, 1894), who had pioneered the Cassiar and Liard country. and in whose footsteps I was destined to follow later. I made the acquaintance of my brother Arthur and cousins. Maggie and George Tache McTavish-John H. McTavish's children. Maggie was married to Dugald Mactavish, son of Governor William Mactavish. I had a talk with John K. McDonald at Bersimis. At Montreal I met Peter McKenzie, Chief Factor, and spent some hours with Sir Donald A. and Lady Smith, when he showed me his picture gallery, conservatory. and gave me the freedom of his home. I took my sister Maud, at school at Trafalgar, and cousin Edith McTavish, also at school-now Mrs. R. A. Rogers, first lady member of the Manitoba Legislature-out for a drive round Mount Royal. At St. Lawrence Hall, Mr. Hogan, the pro­ prietor, knew all the Hudson Bay men, and regaled me with anecdotes. I stayed with Dr. Robert Bell and his family at Ottawa, and supped with Sir Sandford Fleming in the old­ fashioned hospitable way of pot-luck, which removed disparity between our ages and positions. He, with Sir Donald A. Smith, at that time formed the Canadian Advisory Board of the Com­ pany. I met my good friend Dr. Bell in Victoria again, before he died at Rothwell, Manitoba, 20th June, 1917, aged 76. On a warm invitation I found myself at Brockville for a week with the Hon. W. J. Christie, formerly Inspecting Chief Factor of the H.B. Co., and at one time in charge of Churchill. He revelled in the reminiscences of the "Never Fails", Fort Prince of Wales, and the people there. Grace, his grand­ daughter, sang the "Little Brown Jug". Donald McTavish, my uncle, was Grace's father and Edith's, and therefore so~­ in-bw to Mr. Christie. My grandmother, daughter of Sir

239 weko1;1ed me George Simpson. now Mrs. Donald Campbell, McTav1sh, my ar her home in Colborne. Herc I met Graham Miss Emily McTavish, cousin. Gordon, my younger brother, resident at the old mv bdon:d aunt, the last still alive and entertained me. All homestead. At Sudbury. my uncle Donald of my father, for the these rc'I.Hi,)ns I met, with the exception in Scotland. James first rime. as I was the only one schooled at the time of my Cowie w.1s .1ccountant with Uncle Donald each other in 1913- vi~it. Th,v died within a few days of Donald on the 24th. Cowie on the 21st October and Uncle of H.B. officers, I made the acquaintance of the older class W. J. McLean, f,,r example: Roderick McFarlane, Big Bear died in Victoria, \\'.1lta Tr.1il and othl'rs. James McDougall the death of Lord B.C.. 28th June, 1915, one year after of Manitoba) and Str.1thcn11.1. Sir John (Lieut.-Governor me, and I have photo~ L.1dy Sd1ultz were exceedingly kind to and Mrs. Hugh gr.1phic souvenirs of my driving Lady Schultz taken in front of John McDonald in Mr. Boulanger's cariole, kindly forwarded to Government I lomc, and which Sir John McMurrays, and me in C;miar. Sheriff Inkster, the Logans, took me in as one of old-time families opened their doors and Sheriff Inkster is their own. The unequalled and hospitable years as the one and still alive ..1ftl'r completing a reign of fifty only Sh,-rifT. office in 1889 The \t.1ff of the Northern Development Arthur Robertson, cr~mi\lccl t•f Commissioner Joseph Wrigley, I met the last, first in h1s_,sccret.1:y L. ~- Beeston, Inspector. time in Strom~ 181 8 at ~' '· I Lime Street, London, the second Wm. Clark (died 9th ncss. June. } 879. an? now here. Factor as his clerk. W. S. J;1nuary. 1 J 19). with John Thomson me of Dickens' L,.:,·ha: accountan~. Tom Clouston (reminding clerk, Ernest Adams, ! om Pinch) . cash1e_r~ G.eorge Black, chief McMurray and myself. G,nrg..: Tache .\le! av1s~. Dugald and was attached to James Anderson resided m the building James Lawson was ~be Land Department when Chief Factor and janitor, completed the in ch~rge. John, the messenger es ta bltsh men t.

240 CHAPTER L VIII

Paying One's Debts

"My heart is inditing of a good matter." It is good to have known, and come into intimate contact with the Hudson's Bay Company system of square dealing, and to be able to pay tribute to the memories of their officers, women and men, yea to the dogs who served as nobly as their masters, whose silent services in past generations, and the making of history, deserve everything which can be said to their honor. They did not advertise themselves, or expect worldly acknowledgment, as becoming to them, placing the company's interests first and last in their estimation and ideals. They subjugated their own personalities in the background of obscurity, till their belief in the Company they served so faithfully shone with a greater radiance, as unselfish pioneers, capable guides on a true and unswerving course of impec­ cable rectitude. Directly I have in mind, as forming three outstanding types-Scotch, English and French Canadian­ which amalgamated, blended and brought into notice the superior homogenesis of a Hudson's Bay man's personality, George Simpson McTavish (my father), Joseph Fortescue and Horace Belanger. To these may be added the Hon. W. J. Christie, Bishop John Harden, Dr. Robert Bell, Captains Bishop, Hawes, Barfield, Borden, Chief Factors R. Macfarlane, Peter Bell, Donald McTavish, and there are many others of high ideals, principles, experience, mental calibre and matchless loyalty. Men of kindly words, gentlemanly actions and deeds, hearts as big as mountains, with the retention of the youthful spirit which isolation could not destroy, but on the contrary developed more strongly, understanding to the full the respon­ sibility of Responsibility, because they had first learned to obey. Hence they were able to govern wisely and well, being only too willing to strengthen .and buil~ t~e characte~s of ~h.ose entrusted to their charge, holding the dignity of their position in perfect equilibrium by their personal love and considerati?n, in difficult physical situations and mental atmospheres, blendmg

241 their priv.ltc Yirtucs with disciplined .rnthority in a manner unequalkd .mywhcrc. } I, who has failed to n:.1lize the inestimable val~e o~ such wise tutelage and fatherly enc. fails also in the re.1hz~t1on of cl~c debts y,1uth and manhood owe to the best of_ teaching, ~he ,,·Ii abrog.ltion ,,t minor trivi.1lities for the s~trviv.11 of m~Jor qu.1litics. which alone stand the test of adversity or prosperity. To rcp.w tl1l·ir inwstment becomes our bound~n duty. by r.1ssin~ on their helpfulness to those who stand m need. Such payments do not require. nor can b~ pai? by money, () i.· can help hy quiet symp.1thy. \\'l1nls of _sincerity, letters of 1 rrnicmbr.ll1(l'. f,1r~l'!fulness c)f s,·lftshness, actions of natural and r.·.111'· e.1sy ,·11,k.1,·,,ur. t,, d1l'l'r and strengthen the _unfortun~te, as they ,·xl'ai,·rh,' the buffetings of wore.Hy trials, .needing enwuragement when feeling as if .1lone and altogether friendless. w!1ctlia in si(kness ,•r health. The ,·xample of this endless chain of brotherhood of past generations of men and women of the Hudson's Bay Company in 1his (.Hl'! ul (nn'>ider.1tion of helpfulness has influenced its (Jr<',·r 10 i1s pr,,,·r\'.1tion, making the word honorable veritably .1pp)i(.1bl,· in ih ,·11tir,tv. and their due. From the debts incurred in 1he ,,n·i(c. ! Ill· world n·.1p~ payment (in kind), for there c.1n h,· no lailur,· in ad\',lllCemcnt, where high moral principles. self-, tiacemrnt and discipline have laid a solid foundation to .1,,,,1 in b11ilding and maintaining the nation of Canada. I am writing in an attempt to pay my deht ~ W those who m.1y b,· ,,, d.1t,·d in great ,it i, ,. wli<·re the want of friendliness is h< r rible. and there is antidote of the companionship of God's gr,, n wood,;. through varying hard circumstances, loss and sc;,.1r.11i"n from friends. money or influence, who are experi­ ' :i-ing , •r have ex.perienced the ups and downs of fortune and ~d\'cr·.:ty. For .those who may not have tasted many genuine JO~s. because circumstances have been against them, the daily ,' nnd of h< ,n.:"t labour hac; no cessation, while the future is dark with despair. and hopelessness of ever welcoming freedom. a~ the \\:ortd generally estimates its mirage. Behind the bars of d1sa~pomt1:1,::1ts ancJ disillusionments there can "spring up bri.:_::t c:- ,r_:r,_ns wh1c~. defy their power" surmounting diffi­ cult1,:s ..1tr1m1~g a spmtual (intellectual) comfort and happi­ n.:,\ ..:\'.::n _amid wreck;:,! aspirations, in the c;atisfaction and '?~templat1on of honest endeavour. Having found the silver hnmg to the clouds of human vicissitudes, one can smooth

242 the way for tired feet, forget their own troubles, reach the oasis of rest, and obtain contentment. The Barren Grounds of Canada, where vegetation is scarce and trees are not, with a vista of utter desolation, indefinite loneliness, cannot be classed as a Paradise, yet birds migrate from the South to make their nests and raise their broods in silent safety. There the reindeer finds a home, and sustains Indians and Esquimaux. Nature may have provided this reserve for other generations, a storehouse for increasing civilization. There is compensation in everything, if we can segregate our thoughts from superficial matters and self-pity, and understand that hard struggles and consequent vitality are the essentials to continuous existence. "The best prophylactic is a hopeful, sanguine temperament; the best cure, moral resistance-that spirit of combat against every trial, which is alone true bravery." The barrenness of our surroundings only tend to greater development in character, goodwill and profitable understanding. "Sweet are the uses of Adversity, Which, like the toad, ugly and venomous, Wears yet a precious jewel in his head: And this our life, exempt from public haunt, Finds tongues in trees, books, in the running brooks, Sermons in stones, and good in everything." -"As You Like It" (Shakespeare).

243 CHAPTER LIX

'fhc 2 50th Anniversary of the H.B. Co. Celebration

On Monday. the <}th February, 1920, I attended a meeting ,.,lied b}' the \ h\·L1r. Robert Porter. at the City Hall, Victoria. B.C.. \\ lid,· \ \r. Wilson, Publicity Agent for the Hudson's B.iv Company. explained to representatives of various societies .ind organizations the proposed pageant, whereby the 250th t\nniwr,.irY ,,f the Company was to be demonstrated and cdebrated. He outlined its aims. and invited the co-operation , ,1 his audience. :\Ir. Charles H. French, an old-timer in the lur tr.1.!, and chief representative of the Company in B.C. ( now If/ 28. Fur Trade Commissioner at Winnipeg, Mani- 1, ,li.11. w.1s rrn,·nt. 1\lso Professor George Bryce, whose book 'The Remarkable I listory of the Hudson's Bay Company" is a val11.1bl" contribution to its literature. He addressed the mect1ni'.· but the response seemed to me to lack the understanding ,,t its merit~ and application t,, the occasion. l wa~ int,·r,\11.:d in the ,tudy and development of modern \'iewpoints .1, the

I -tried· to hshow · that while the conception of the pagean t , r,;,r~,entmg t e different epochs of time and customs, had met

244 with 1:1-odern ~nqualified approval and assistance, through co­ operative promised floats and decorations, some symbol should be created or introduced to typify the spirit of the officers, women and men who had made, by their unimpeachable hon­ esty and loyalty of perfect service since the Company's inception and later incorporation on the 2nd May, 1670, the unequalled 250th anniversary and record possible. Whose fidelity to ful­ filling their promised word was sacred and understood throughout the Company's vast domain in all transactions, that it surpassed in efficacy any modern sworn on Bible oath, ~nd had built up and sustained the past and present reputation of the Company. I am not a speaker, but I knew whereof I spoke, and my remarks received evident commendation. I felt that, probably with this last opportunity, I should attempt to pay my debt to the gentlemen of past generations, comparatively unknown. not proclaimed during the silent tenure of their existence. to the modern generation of a great nation but who had con­ tributed unassumingly though gloriously to its formation. Only with a Hudson's Bay man's experience could I feel as I did, as I tried to expound the keeping of their word as being a superior factor, in fact the "Chief Factor" in the con­ struction and carrying out the marvellous system of foresight, discipline, business, observation of the Sabbath, toleration and happy governing faculty of the Company. Unable to be present. being at Rivers Inlet, B.C., at the historical pageant, I do not know if my remarks bore any result. The incentive to embody my feelings in writing about my old comrades found birth on that occasion, and the portrayal of the ordinary life of the Adventurers of the Hudson's Bay -Company has been largely from a motive to exemplify the psychologic material which composed the edifice of the H.B.C. and become their everlasting memorial. The proof of the excellence of the pudding is in the eating thereof, and so we find on retrospect, after due trial and strict examination, that as examples of true manhood the officers, women and men of the Hudson's Bay Company are "Second to None". I like to think that these pioneers-the word in its fullest interpretation embodying the struggle~ for p~ogress-~ho live.cl unobstrusively through triumphant lives, still come mto their

245 own at chi: end of L'Wf\" depreciative decade, like Rudyard Kipling's "Recessional". "The tumult .rnd the shouting dies The Captains and the Kings depart Still stands Thine ancient sacrifice .-\ n humble and a contrite heart. LorJ God of hosts, be with us y~t Lest m: forget, lest we forget."

246 CHAPTER LX

Values and the Law of Compensation The Reward

The richest man I knew died without possessing one cent of material coinage. He had worked as pioneers work, had raised a family, mortgaged his farm to pay for their education at college, redeemed the mortgage, had suffered from depression of land values following the Great War, and from the fact that he had to accept his children's hospitality (as a refuge) tearing at the vitals of his principles of independent action, despite his love of them, or theirs for him. But the herculean frame of mind and body could not forever carry on the unequal warfare against Time. As he lay dying he laid his hand on my head, the setting sun clothing him with a mantle of light and right­ eousness, and blessed me, an accolade of Beneficence, coming from him, unsurpassed anywhere ennobling and "Non Oblitus". Values! Who would not wish to earn and experience such values in Life? The richest woman I knew was a lone spinster who taught children-myself among them-their A. B, C, and laid with sometimes heavy hand on our small anatomies and seats of true learning the foundations of understanding. We all shared her love. She was found dead alone in her little two-roomed cottage, leaving a heritage that developed into sturdy true womanhood, manhood, and directed many a one the straight path through life. Was she alone? I think not. Her faith ·was simple, correspondingly great and magnificent. The mind can bring around the corporeal frame, all the friends to keep us company, and who knows she was not surrounded by friends. debtors and angels as she :finished her life's work of doing good. The greatest evidence of a Divine Architect is in this fact. that we forget all the tests of unhappiness which predominate so excessively in life, and remember only the comparatively few bright spots or rays, showing like jewels in contrast to their massive settings. We can remember the substantial kindnesses

247 t1i friends ..rnd discard without effort to oblivion the skeletons of and drv bones of their t1ppl1sitl'S. The experience of months semi-starvation is eliminated in a twinkling, as the first fresh goose comes from the South. is shot, plucked, r~asted in front of a rl).1ring campfire and devoured. Why, we he~ our fin~ers Ht in inugin.1tion of the glorious taste left bchm~-ha~mg society no fl)rks unless WL' made a stid-.er of wood for special , ::r,:,,,,r ,·isic.rnts \\'c can understand how the Chinese become so f l,nd ,,t luscious ro.1st pork, on the authority of .1 Lamb, the .1f t.:r they h.1w burnt their fingers rescuing the pig from flames of till·ir burning houses, and put them in their mouths and r , l',1sc th.· pain ,,f heat. Try .1s we can, \\'C fail to grasp any r.-1.1in the feeling of past pain and physical sufferings in and .1-utc form. Bue \\'l' can recall all the moments, fleeting r,Hl' as they may have been, of happiness, and they stay with of us as real as l'\'l'r. \\'l·.1ry waiting wiped out by the advent Com­ ,,ur ,\p,·,t.ltHHls. brief moments lll'\'l'r to be forgotten. pcnsauons and v.1lues everywhere in wonderful exemplification of D1 \'inc Justice. To the individual in l.11,·r life. if he has learned his lesson realization of , ,1 lift- th< roughly from past experiences, comes a of values. in itself a f ortunc. He can appreciate the substance .111 things. can no longer be lonely. though living in a commer­ honour. The ' 1.11 w"rld foreign to his upbringing or ideas of of ,.,nl: 1·.r of o:pl·riL·ncl·, has given him a heritage. the faculty sur­ r,·,":.:n11ing the bil',,ings by which he is multitudinously employed and r, t1nded. ·:nd with the talent of observation a trail, or dn,·!. •ped in the scar,li of a broken twig, denoting his a pt.1rmig.1n tract. implying breakfast, biology of living, life, ,:1·"rr::::,,:t of the utility of seeming trivial things of unn.,11ccd tn the rush of a city world, magnifies their enjoyment. >· n.1ilc; in boxes. strap_ iron round cases, wood, paper or sack1n:,'. w.:r,: t~rown away 111 our days of active and constant treasured. nl·cd. E\',ryrhing WJ, made straight, mended and I ho: appallrng wa,tef~lness of material-gl_ass. paper, tin and c~nu1r~c.r, · - _repres.ent~ng forest l_o~s - in civilization, spreads disma} m a fll<>~,..:r s vitals. and VlSlons of the poorhouse would b~. assu~ct.lly hts. at such ~ealth so recklessly thrown away. 1 prodigal indifference is \\ - ,t.: is the .crime of this age, and calamitous. :--.:o banker ever taught the benefit of a savin ~~-:~::~~t better than the H.B. Co. did to perfection in looki;~

248 He may have lost much according to civilized world stand­ ards of comparison. He has, however, in reality gained more permanently than all its so-called attractions can temporarily profit him. Do not grouch about what the other fellow has in apparent plethora of money and pleasures. Think of the things he may not have, and which you possess to a better under­ standing of your own condition and real values. The winner who has stayed with the hard-fought race earns his prize. What greater prize can be gained than the value of finding good in everything.

---o---

249

Behind the Palisades

AN AUTOBIOGRAPHY

By George Simpson McTavish CHIEF TRADER . Hudson's Bay Company

FOREWORD

· his book deals with salient features of the Hudson's

- t ·ompany, expounds its fundamental principles of _ -..mization, and describes the internal working of the 1-: • This done partly by the method of exposition, by giving illustrative examples, in the life and acter of individuals, in character episodes and incidents.

, notable feature of the work is its contribution to , v aphy, botany, meteorology, ethnology, dietetics, ' .schology (normal and morbid).

T'here is also running through the book a strong r,~tence upon the educational value of discipline, and - .g with this an exposition of the author's philosophy life.

By MR. S. E. LAING, Late Superintendent of Schools, Manitoba.