A QUARTERLY REVIEW FOR CIVIL WAR ENACTOR;

Volume 10, NO. 1 Guarding your interests.. . WINTER 2002 Preservation. War will be held on 21-23 June 2002 at Hood College in I am pleased to announce our (the DOG'S and yours!) Frederick, Maryland. Topics include Ella Hobart (female army preservation donations for 2001. We improved upon the chaplain), female war time lighthouse keepers, the ten year 2000 contribution. This was due in part due to our increased commandments of copyrights, female soldiers, the schema of presence in the field. Subscriber Joe Albert and his Columbia hospitals: where women fit in and who they were, women at Rifles comrades put in outstanding efforts at the Gettysburg City Point, prostitution, correspondence from the home front to event, and joined the staff members attending the Mumford (New the prisoners in Point Lookout and laundresses. For more York) and Manassas events. With a slight increase in subscribers, information contact Eileen Conklin at 12728 Martin Road, the two subscription raffles at Gettysburg and Manassas, sales Smithburg, MD 21783, (301) 293-2820, [email protected] and of the merchant and supplier database disks and sales of back www.womenandthecivilwar.org. issues our financial status improved. A copy of the 2001 (and previous years) financial report is available upon request. Civil War Artifact Forum - A Call for Papers. The following organizations received donations: [I] The success of the 2001 Artifact Forum in Philadelphia last year has encouraged the organizers to make it an annual Save the Historic Antietam Battlefield - $400 event. A few copies ($25) of the forum proceedings are still Mill Springs Battlefield Association - $300 available and may be reprinted. The 2002 Artifact Forum is Save the Franklin Battlefield - $200 planned for Charleston, South Carolina later this fall. Juanita Central Maryland Heritage League (S. Mountain) - $100 Leisch, one of the enthusiastic organizers, hopes to find the Washington Co. His. Society (Headquarters House) - $25 right people who have spent ten, twenty or thirty years studying Historic Southwest Ohio (Heritage Village) - $25 some material-culture-related aspect of each topic and want to share their findings. Here is are some topics being contemplated: These small, but still important, preservation effort donations are the result of your confidence and support. Thank Charleston in the War through photographs and diaries, etc. you! ARF! Blockade running: the vessels, the weapons and the cargo Underwater archeology: we hope to do a.. .Hunley-related special In the Field in 2002. event, lecture and tour Look for the DOG and staff at the Genessee County Village, The US or CS Navy: uniforms and equipment Mumford, New York, in July and at the Antietam 140th event The shortages caused by the blockade ... shoes, homespun in September. Some staff members have also volunteered to help textiles, etc. the event organizers with civilian and other activities at Textile industries in the South: sourzes, samples, etc. Penyville in early October. There may be other events where Horse equipment: Ken Knopp's new book is out staff members or friends will be present. The next Artifact Forum Slaves, contrabands or free blacks and material culture, slave- has a commitment of our support. made pottery or material that relates to colored troops

Other Event Notes. Contact Juanita Leisch at [email protected] The Aurora Clothing Collection will have a display of if you want a copy of the Call for Papers, more Artifact Forum original clothing items (1850-1870) at the Shaker Village, information or how to order the 2001 Artifact Forum Pleasant Hill, Kentucky, event (l,2 June 2002). The display will Proceedings. be supplemented by pieces from the private collections of Phillip and Janine Whiteman and Bill and Glenna Jo Christen. The Telegraphic Woes and News. ACC will again be at Kennesaw Mountain NBP and several Due to a grievous "user error" on my part, all e-mail sent other National Park Service venues in 2002. to the Watchdog from the end of November to mid-December The Sixth Annual Conference on Women and the Civil (continued on page 4)

Four Dlollars at the Newsstand. LOOKING AT ORIGINALS Wool Jacket from the Sam Davis Home Museum

This is an interesting jacket of gray wool with a pronounced The interior lining and sleeve lining of the jacket appears weave that appears to be kersey. The Sam Davis Home Museum to be osnaburg tabby weave cotton. The lining is cut in the same [I] records show the jacket as being worn by Private T. J. Flippin six-piece fashion as the shell with the back being of two sections. of the Third Tennessee Volunteer Infantry. The records show The sleeve lining is stitched to the body lining after the body that he was captured shortly after the jacket was issued, but no lining is set in place. There is one exterior attached pocket at date was shown. The museum also has Private Flippin's hat. the left breast. The interior stitching is somewhat visible and The records for the hat state that the hole in the hat was "received the thread appears dark. This could be the color of the exterior at the Battle of Jonesboro," which would mean late war (after thread prior to sunlight exposure. There is a fabric tape with a 1 September 1864). handwritten name sewn to the collar of the jacket. The jacket fabric is gray wool with a very pronounced weave. This is an excellent example of a documented Western wool It is a six-piece shell body with two-piece sleeves. There is no jacket. I have seen two other documented Western gray wool evidence of any trim on either collar or cuffs. The collar is about jackets, of this similar style, that were issued in late war. Both two inches and appears to be stiffened with interfacing. There were in very good condition and were worn home by the owners are no external pockets. The jacket has eight buttonholes and after the end of the war. This leads me to believe that wool six remaining Federal dome eagle buttons. Buttonholes are hand jackets were available in the west until the end of the war. stitched and of top quality. The remaining thread on the exterior Mr. McColloh of the jacket appears oxidized brown, which would lead to the NOTE: speculation that it was once dyed with darker natural dye. The [l] Through the kindness of Bethany Hawkins, the Executive Director for the Sam sleeves are cut full and the body is cut to taper. There is a slight Davis Memorial Association, and the assistance of Stan Hutson, Mr. McCulloh has been able to review several articles in the collection [see SUMMER 2001(9.3) rounding at the bottom of the jacket fronts and the back rear of issue]. The Sam Davis home has many interesting items that will be returning to the jacket is cut straight across. There is a single row of display when the planned new museum addition is completed. The home and grounds topstitching along the outer edges and cuffs. The lining extends are one of the most unique museums in the country. They home belonged to the to the bottom of the jacket and is anchored in place by the Davis family and were in use until the State of Tennessee purchased the home for a museum. Sam Davis and his family are buried behind the home in the family topstitching. A wool-backing piece of approximately three inches cemetery. If you are in the Nashville area please stop by and support this very backs the front edges of the garment. There appears to be worthwhile and historic home. The Sam Davis Home and museum is located at interfacing in these areas. 1399 Sam Davis Road, Smyrna, Tennessee 37167 and telephone (615) 459-2341.

FIG 1. General View of the T.J. Flippin Wool Jacket.

fl L THE WATCHDOG. ITER 2002 - .8uy!7 aaaaIS pusq -1~8~PUB ZU!~!? dpoa 8u!~oq~jayasf aP!sUI Ma!A '£ 3Id FIG 4. Lining detail. FIG 5. Arm to Jacket Body Attachment.

FIG 6. Detail ofthe back of the Jacket at the Bottom Rear.

PUBLISHER'S NOTES (continued)

200 1 (at [email protected] or Charlie McCulloh, Associate Editor ([email protected]) [email protected]) was deleted. If you sent a Mike Murley, Associate Editor ([email protected]) message during that period and did not receive a response, that Rick Simmons, Associate Editor ([email protected]) was the reason. Please contact me again. I am particularly Jomarie Soszynski, Associate Editor concerned if your message involved a change of address or a (dsoszynski [email protected]) subscription query. I am very sorry for any inconvenience caused Lee Rainey, Associate Editor (LeeRainey @aol.com) by my blunder. John Yingling, Associate Editor (jryingl @ameritech.net) Also during this period our old ISP (RustNet) notified us Larry See, Web Master ([email protected]) that our account was being transferred to Earthlink. In order to save money and take advantage of e-mail through our existing To contact me in regard to Watchdog business use domain name, the RustNet account was terminated. [email protected]. For other matters or personal With the ever-changing state of the "telegraphic" world, notes use [email protected]. addresses often change unexpectedly. It is a certainty that as Mr. Christen soon as the above list is published, an address will change. However, current links to our editors on the DOG'S web site [I] Contact information for additional donations or making an inquiry: SHAF, Tom Clemens, PO BOX 50, Sharpsburg, MD 21782 and are always the latest. Messages to specific editors are forwarded www.shafonline.org from [email protected] e-mail address. Currently MSBA, Bill Neikirk, PO BOX 814, Somerset, KY 42502 our editors may be contacted at: STFB, Joe Smythe, PO BOX 851, Franklin, TN 37065 and wwwfranklin-stfb.org CMHL, Bill Wilson, PO BOX 721, Middletown, MD 21769 WCHS, Lionel Skaggs, 118 East Dickson, Fayetteville, AR 72701 and Lynn Kalil, Assistant Editor ([email protected]) www.ioa.net/-wchs Bob Braun, Associate Editor ([email protected]) HSWO. William Drake. PO BOX 62475. Cincinnati. OH 45262 4 THE WATCHDOG. WINTER 2002 I put My Foot into It (part one)

For the past ten years I have been collecting photographs million dollars. The cost of raw material including fuel was (CdVs in particular) for a visual reference library of men's just over 43.6 million dollars. The capital outlay was twenty- clothing from 1850 to 1870. Among the thousand or so images, four million dollars. The estimated value of goods produced about two-thirds of the poses show the subject's footwear. In was nearly ninety million dollars. the majority of those images the men appear to be wearing boots The population of the United States in 1860 was slightly or shoes with sides that extend well over the ankle. Very few of over 3 1.4 million (roughly a million less than the population of my images (less than ten percent) show evidence of low-cut California in 1990). The means that less than one percent of shoes. Due to the small image size and often limited image the population was involved in manufacturing footwear for the resolution, construction and design details are hard to discern entire country. An investigation into the amount of imported even with magnification in the majority of cases. , shoes and boots is also warranted. Once I discover how many Based on this particular image data source I conclude that people were over fifteen years of age, I might be able to judge civilian men wore boots more often than low-cut shoes. Both the percent of cordwainers and shoemakers of the entire working armies issued bootees, and therefore the military is a separate population. population group not included in this discussion at this time. Compared with other industries, the shoe and boot There is also a practical component to this conclusion. The manufacturing business employed more people than any other streets and roads of the period were dusty, dirty, muddy, and single branch of American industry. The largest production of garbage and manure filled; just plain rough transportation any one town was in Philadelphia. Other centers were in venues. Transportation on foot, by horse or mule and by wheeled Massachusetts (Lynn, Haverhill and Plymouth) and New York vehicle resulted in exposure to physical elements in the barnyard, City. The largest factories were using steam power. livery stable or on the road surface. A citizen of the pre- Considering that millions of boots were required, mass automobile world needed sturdy foot coverings that came up production was the only way to keep up with demand. Based on high on the leg for protection against the rubbing of stirrups. examination of a small sample of original boots one could also Boots had to keep moisture and dirt out. With about eighty surmise that many repairs were made before boots were percent of the US male population being of the laboring class replaced.. .thus the need for cobblers. An interesting side note few men had the luxury of spending the day in the store or appears to be a lack of shoe and boot manufacturing concerns office where the environment was friendlier to footwear. Perhaps in the southern states in 1860 [see note 51. Could this be a possible the term "house shoe" might describe the function of a low factor in the scarcity of Confederate shoe and boot supplies shoe.. .something that can easily be slipped on at home, or when during the war? behind a desk, counter or a clerk's window. As I have run out of conclusions based solely on the census, Out of six hundred images showing footwear, only three a logical additional step would be for someone to examine the show boots being worn with trowsers tucked into them. As for shoe and boot manufacturing business history and economic low shoes there are only a few photographic examples in my records. It appears that New England plus New York and collection. Several well-known published images show low cut Pennsylvania would be prime sources for such information. shoes, bootees (low boots) and brogans in everyday use during the 1860s. Just a Few Photographs to Started on the Right Foot. With these thoughts in mind I want to begin examining Returning to the the state of men's' footwear in the 1860s. I only intend to set photograph sample data the stage for detailed study. This article will be in at laest two source [6] mentioned at parts, and longer if more material is gathered. the beginning the first C~V(FIG 1)is one of The Shoe and Boot Industry in 1860. three single poses that According to the Federal Census of 1860 [I] there were show a man in the 11,864 shoe and boot manufacturing establishments in the photographer's studio United States and its territories. These were distributed in four with his trowsers tucked geographic regions as follows: into his boots. My conclusion is that when Northeastern States [2] 2,554 indoors or not involved Middle States [3] 5,389 with transportation or Western States [4] 2,963 occupational constraints Four Southern States [5] 958 most men wore their boots under their In 1860 there were 127,427 people (96,287 men and 3 1,140 trowsers. A study of women) employed (on average) in these manufacturing candid outdoor group- - establishments. In 1860 these people were paid about 31.7 FIG 1.

-, - .. THE 'CHDOG. WINTER 2002 he next image (FIG 2 and its detail) shows three young pl&r , men who have exposed their boots by rolling up or pushing up their pant legs. This may be a "pose" rather than a #-' \, < , practical record. One of the young gentlemen who has rolled L up his trowser leg gives us a good look at the lower pant leg linings. This [7] along with linings found on original trowsers indicate that fabric wear due to boot leather rubbing was a concern. I Shoes are clearly shown in three photographs and their details. One image (FIG 3) clearly shows a low-cut shoe and a light colored sock. The other two images (FIG 4 and FIG 5) show what appear to be "brogans" or ankle boots. i Given enough time and magnification, a statistical study 1 Yr of randomly selected CdVs might allow a more precise I conclusion about boot and shoe usage in the general male i civilian population with consideration of age, geography I and perhaps social status based on clothing. Any 1 FIG 2. photographic study will have biases. Studio poses and FIG 3. situations do not necessarily reflect everyday usage. [8]

FIG 2 (detail). FIG 3 (detail).

FIG 4. FIG 5 (detail). 1

'WIN Looking at Originals. The boots narrow at the toes to slightly rounded flat toes. I am fortunate to be able to access a primary source for The shoe leather is thin (no more than 1/16 inch. Two of the studying shoes and boots typical of the third quarter of the boots have had half soles added one with pegs and nails. There 1 nineteenth century. Phillip Whiteman (my partner in the Aurora is a pegged patch on the front sole of the other boot. That boot I Clothing Collection) and I purchased a group of original men's also has sewn patches on the entire toe of the boot and also near shoes and boots from that period. The lot consisted of fourteen the little toe. A similar patch is found on one of the other boots. items: a pair of elastic-sided shoes (Congress gaiters), one low- The color is much the same as the shoe ...age and wear has cut shoe and eleven boots. None of the boots were matching worn the blacking off to a dark brown color. pairs. All the boots were similar in construction. We had two experienced boot makers examine three of the boots. Based on Samples for Review. that feedback about construction, our originals can be dated to In the next installment I will report on items of footwear so the third quarter of that century. far received and now on our inspection table. They are.. . For this study I will examine the low cut shoe and two of the boots. I welcome any observations of other original footwear .. .from Tom Mattimore: for inclusions in this series. The next installment will have One pair boots (seventeen inches tall) with pegged soles detailed descriptions and photographs of these originals. Only and nailed heels. brief summary of their appearance is included here. One pair low-side shoe. These are prototype copies of the original shoe mentioned above. They are constructed in the same The Low-cut Shoe. manner. Tom's craftsmanship is first rate. The only thing that The shoe is low-cut (the sides come up 2'12 inches above catches my eye is that the leather is slightly thicker than the the sole at the ankle). The upper is made of three pieces (vamp originals. More to come on that general subject also. and right and left quarters. The vamp is sewn to each quarter One pair bootees with pegged soles, nailed heels and copper along its entire length. There is no tongue, but there is evidence rivet on quarter to vamp seam. This is the New York or that one might have been attached. The upper is lined with Donaldson shoe (Colorado State Historical Society circa 1858 leather inside only as far forward as the joint with the vamp. photograph of a miner named Donaldson). He also offers a hand The vamp area is lined with a woven fabric (probably cotton) sewn welted shoe. attached at the same joint. The counter is sandwiched between One pair of "oxford" shoes (or brogans) based on the Page the lining and quarters. It is sewn to the uppers only at the Laphan shoe in the Museum of the Confederacy. It is similar to vertical heel joint. The leather is no more than '116 inch thick. shoes found on the Arabia, in the Fort Laramie Museum and in I The soles are pegged and the heel is nailed with twenty- Echoes of Glory: CS, page 175. four small, square-cut nails. There is an insole and an outer ...from Fugawee: sole. The heel lift is '12 inch thick. It is 2'12 inches long (from One pair issue "artillery" boots (12'12 inches tall) with back of the heel toward the front of the shoe. It was made from pegged and sewn soles, nailed heels, fully lined. a right-hand last. ...from MJN Boot & Leather Shop: The shape of the toe is flattened, but not square. The shoe One pair light mounted boots (nineteen inches tall) with is dark brown and shows some evidence of having been pegged soles, nailed and pegged heels. These are based on private blackened. The color may also be the result of usage and age. purchase original shoes studied by the owner, Nick Nesseim. There are four holes for laces on each quarter. No laces are present. Comparing the show with a modern one, the shoe size I welcome other submissions, and as is our policy they will is approximately a Size 9 or 10, medium width. be compared to originals not each other. Mr. Christen The Boots. NOTES: All three boots have similar construction. The uppers are [I] Kennedy, Joseph C. G., Preliminary Report of the Eighth Census, 1860, two pieces of leather (a front and a back). There is a counter Government Printing Office, Washington, 1862. [2] Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island and Connecticut sewn in with a line of stitching parallel to the sole from around [3] New York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Maryland, Delaware, and the District of the back piece of leather. Two of the boots have cotton webbing Columbia (1'14 to 1'12 inches wide) boot straps sewn inside, and one boot [4] Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri, has leather straps sewn on the inside and outside. All three Kentucky, Utah and Nebraska [5] Virginia, Louisiana, Tennessee and Georgia have thin leather linings sewn at the top. The linings are three, [6] My base men's clothing study CdV collection consists of over one thousand five and 5'12 inches deep. One lining is reddish Moroccan leather. CdVs that can be dated to the period between 1860 and 1870. Images used in this The sides of all the boots are twelve inches high. article: FIG 1, CdV, no backmark, ca 1860-4; FIG 2, CdV, M.B. Yarnell, The sole are all pegged, with heels that have been nailed. Phoenixville, PA backmark, ca 1863-4; FIG 3, CdV, no backmark, ca 1863-4; FIG 4, CvD, no backmark, ca 1866-8 and FIG 5, CdV, no backmark, ca 1860-4. The number of nails around the perimeter leads me to believe [7] A few photographs are sharp enough in detail to show the outlines of boot that the heads of the nails acted as protection from wear. One of linings without having the pant legs rolled. the other eleven boots does have a fragment of a heel plate. [8] Phillip Whiteman and I have started more detailed research in this and other Heel height ranges from 3/4 to 7/8 and may have been one inch areas of men's clothing for our proposed book, The Uniform of rhe Citizen, 1855- 1870. considering the amount of wear. Heel length is 2 !h inches - - . -. THE WATCHDOG. WINTER 2002 - What's a Pirate to do?

Editor's Remarks: pointer stops factors mightily into whether or not a sutler is Some of the Watchdog crew made a journey to Virginia considered a "good" or "bad" sutler by some. But for every person last summer for the big Manassas event. We were set up right who considers a sutler that offers quality reproduction products in the middle of merchant's row and had plenty of conversations as a "good" sutler, there is also at least one person that considers with folks about the merchants and their goods. A statement a sutler who turns orders around fast and offers generic stuff at from one conversation in particular comes to mind: a reasonable price as a "good" sutler. The definition of a "good" sutler is not universal. The main problem here is there are still many, many sutlers, Please keep in mind that we do not sell stuff to be nasty. We especially at the larger events, that sell those "triangle thingies" sell it because somebody buys it. (a friend of mine calls them Poncho Villa dresses-triangle top, white blouse and skirt) and also all the other "stuff' that goes Bill Watson: along with making a bad impression. Not only that, many shops Well, in the first place, why assume that the only place to still sell "stuff' that women of certain ages should not wear, sell goods is at an event? That is the premise from which much and advise the buyer that it is certainly "correct" for them. I of the rest of the fallacy stems. I rarely buy anything at events don't know of any solution to this problem except constant any more; I get it ahead of time. My event time is for history, education of new people in the hobby. It does come to almost not shopping. everyone over time after they see the "blunders" they are wearing Let us turn this around: Why is an event that is intended to and find out they have wasted a lot of money. portray history or teach about history a good place for people to sell anything except what a historic sutler would have had- This anonymous woman could also have been describing any meat pies, food dainties, pipes, tobacco, etc.? A historic sutler number of men's shirts, uniform items or pieces of military would not be selling uniforms, weapons, accoutrements. We equipment found among the shops of the bazaar (or bizarre!) at are portraying history. many events. That being said, the event most encountered, the typical To be fair to the merchant class we have again asked one of mainstream event, not only has inaccurately portrayed sutlers, our friends in the merchant trade to respond. Bob Sullivan, it actually caters to their need to have customers. The dead time proprietor of Sullivan Press, was eager to step in. (refer to the encountered at events by participants is something insisted upon SPRING 2001 (9.2) issue). Since Bill Watson, a leader in the by sutlers. [Editor: Event sponsors during the 1970s and 1980s Eastern Campaigner's Alliance and longtime member of the often had to schedule battles scenarios so the troops had time to enacting community, was part of that earlier discussion, his go shopping] The event is shaped in part around their needs. thoughts on the subject are also included. Since, in the usual model, their early registration fees are seed I prefer the term "field merchant" for a mercantile operation money for the event sponsors; they tend to get what they want. set up at events that does not portray a period merchant assigned That does not serve history or those who wish to portray it; it to an army regiments or posts. The term "sutler" is reserved for serves the sutler. Because most-most, not all--of these sutlers the later operation. Please keep in mind that I have not imposed who do go to events are selling junk, they are also among the this term in the following discussion. most vociferous opponents of authenticity standards for reenacting groups. We in the campaign wing have been accused Bob Sullivan: of trying to put them out of business. Absolutely true. We are Well, once again it falls to me to defend the sutler element trying to put them out of business and they are trying to market in the community. Actually, sutlering is a "precise" science. their junk as historically accurate. Putting them out of business Sutlers sell precisely what people will buy, and the definition of by creating an informed consumer capable of knowing the "people" includes spectators and participants. As much as I hate difference between junk and more accurate reproductions seem to say it. ..well, think Halloween costumes for that "old-timey" to be a fine idea to me. look and you have a good idea of what some spectators want. If we can just convince more people that they do not need I know that people get all up in arms about this stuff, but that junk, the problem is solved. Nobody will be shopping at understand that a sutler's job is to make money.. .period! Some their store. sutlers provide information, documentation and research along Who would be the people consulting the sutlers for advice? with their products. You can take the high road and look at Certainly not me or anyone else on the campaigner end of things. such information as a public service, or you could take the cynical road and look at the information as simply a method of Bob Sullivan: distancing their product line from the competition. I would like to state at the start that I am very uncomfortable Do not get caught in the trap of mixing history and in this position. However, I am going to peel the lid off of this economics. You must deal with one or the other. Now, I am not situation and see what crawls out. talking absolutes here, as in completely forgetting history to Sutlers are banned from so-called "campaigner-friendly" focus on economics. There is a sliding scale and where the events ( i.e. McDowell, etc.) and are extremely limited in what they can show or sell in other "campaigner-friendly" events product line is fine, but it does not feed the family. There is an (Burkittsville). So why in the world should sutlers even bother old marketing saying: "Sell to the classes, eat with the masses. trying to make the authentic goods that campaigners will buy if Sell to the masses. eat with the classes." they can't even come to the events to sell them? Many people who decry what sutlers sell freely admit that they do not shop at Bill Watson: merchant's row during events. So why should a sutler bother to But you are ignoring the reality that their marketing, fueled sell products to a clientele that doesn't visit their store? by uninformed consumers, went a long way to create this ninety It reminds me of a line from the W. C. Fields movie "Poppy," percent figure. where Fields says to a hot dog vendor: "Sir, first you insult me, then you consult my advice in business matters. You sir, are a Bob Sullivan: dunce." The only time authenticity enters into this discussion is as Let us look at a mainstream sutler. He cannot get into many a market share. Economically speaking, it is not as a goal or so-called quality events anymore without jumping through all even a concern. These are businesses I am discussing here. kinds of hoops and having people who have no idea how to run a business telling him what he can and cannot do. If he does all Bill Watson: of that, then most of the people attending the event freely admit Bob, this really does sound like a bottom line kind of that his very presence "ruins their moment" and they will not morality. Doesn't it matter that one makes money honorably? shop in his tent anyway. Are businesses judged only on whether they make money? If Contrast that with a so-called mainstream event, where he that's the case, the Mafia is an exemplary business. If you sell pays his seventy-five dollars, sets up and sells to thousands of someone a product and lie about its intrinsic nature, you've participants and tourists for three solid days. It does not take a committed fraud. Telling someone a "Barney" coat is an accurate Wharton Business School degree to figure out where the sales, representation of a Civil War sack coat is a lie, period! Ditto the the money and the profits are. representations made to women about "triangle thingies," Let us look at this another way: underpinnings, styles, etc. When merchants incorporate those Suppose that there are forty thousand reenactors in the lies in a system, and work against people who are trying to United States. Placing authenticity on a normal bell curve point out, for example, that Yankee uniforms were not made of (statistically speaking), if you take a slice from one end of the the heavy Navy peacoat material that is leaving hundreds of bell curve, you have the percentage of reenactors that would be reenactors stricken with heat-related ailments at summertime considered the "campaigner movement." This slice would events, it seem like something worse than fraud. naturally be according to the number of standard deviations that you move from the center. This could be somewhere between Bob Sullivan: five and ten percent. For purposes of statistics, we will cut that You have a tremendous amount of work ahead of you if you in the middle and assume 7.5 percent, which gives us a total of expect to change the way most vendors do business. If it is good three thousand campaigners. I frankly believe this number to business to be authentic, then a sutler will be authentic. If it is be generous, but I will continue. not, then they will not. I am a sutler. I am studying the reenactor market. Here is what I see: The three thousand are desperately trying to separate Bill Watson: themselves from the other thirty-seven thousand. How much Exactly what the campaign movement seeks to do: create effort should I put into trying to appeal to 7.5 percent of the savvy consumers who demand better products. I am in total market, with the possible add-on of some of the rest of the agreement with this. I doubt some vendors will change. But market? I know that if I appeal to this market, my production new vendors are springing up all the time to meet the demand costs will be high, my turnaround time will be long. Because of for better quality items, and it seems like some of them have these factors, my price will be above the market mean, which much better business sense than the "artistes" who dominated will exclude all potential buyers that purchase on price alone. the campaigner cottage industry supply system for a long time. My high turnaround time will exclude most impulse It is already happening. More and more sutlers are carrying purchases, which is another significant part of the market. quality merchandise prepared by reputable manufacturers, and Conversely, what kind of effort should I put into selling to the stuff is going like hotcakes. Contrast this to just four or five 92.5 percent of the market, taking the chance of being ostracized years ago, when mainstream sutlers successfully had Nick Sekela by the other 7.5 percent? The product is readily available, and thrown out of an event in North Carolina. His advance the delivery time is quick. The product price is at the mean or registration was refused and when he showed up anyway and even below, which means that I can sell at a significant profit. attempted to set up shop over where campaigners were camped, Most business people I know would gladly take their chances with registration money in hand, they got the event organizers with over ninety percent of the existing market. to throw him out on his ear. I was a fly on the wall tent and Do you not see what you are asking? You are asking watched it all happen. The reason? Once anyone saw the great businesses to ignore ninety percent of the total market to cater stuff in his tent, all the junk on sutler row suffered tremendously to your demands, while willingly stating that you will not in the comparison. Is not that an unfair attempt to limit patronize their businesses that much anyway. An "authentic" comvetition? 9 THE WA1 I would say progress is being made. I would also say it is a Burkittsville this was tried. Spiros Marinos came with some mistake to say sutlers are always banned from campaigner- good jackets and Tim Allen hats, etc. This avoids the awful sponsored events. There is a tier system of events out there; it is problem of having to send people home if they badly flunk not black and white. Some events are intended to be for folks inspection. Instead, just send them to the approved field who already have their gear and are ready to perform history at merchant who is ready to take their credit card and voila! Instant a high intensity level. No sutlers are necessary at these events; impression improvement. Providing the sutlers are people who the presence of sutlers does not contribute to the success of the are based relatively nearby it means only having to show up for event. Others are halfway house events, for those already- a few hours, not having to do the whole tent thing, make a prepared folks but also for others who are not fully prepared or bunch of sales and then go home and enjoy the rest of your who are trying it out. There are much more of these than there weekend. are of the high-intensity events, and quality sutlers are present. This is totally different from doing a sutler impression at And, believe it or not, campaigners do support and attend some an event, which is inherently "play time" as opposed to mainstream events. commerce time, although one might make a little money on Reenacting is changing, and it is in the direction of a more sales. accurate depiction of history. Since you, Bob, are already I would also like to see conferences allow quality sutlers on providing accurate material in your particular niche, I am at a an invitation and/or application basis. I know this is one of loss to understand why you are being a devil's advocate on behalf your hobbyhorses and I agree. Why do most conferences only of the purveyors of shoddy. allow booksellers? A conference is an obviously appropriate venue for good sutlers, I reckon. Bob Sullivan: [Editor's note: Bob Sullivan has made a decision to convert his The Editor Again: field mercantile into a true sutler enterprise impression. He The Watchdog is putting up money and manpower to give expects to have his set-up ready by the last half of the 2002 folks wishing to do a true sutler impression an opportunity. I season. We give him an ARF! for encouragement and for making am working with the Perryville 2002 event sponsors to provide this decision. Perhaps others will follow.] an area where first-person sutler impressions may operate. Participation is limited and will be by invitation. There will be Here is a link to the look that I am shooting for next season: enforced standards. A system of chits or tokens will be set up to www.sullivanpress.com/newtent.htm. This is a picture (FIG 1) facilitate business transactions. These sutlers will actually be of an 1864 sutler tent near Petersburg. [I] I am going to order selling goods! I could use some help in discovering any an eleven by seventeen feet wall tent with four foot walls and a references to regimental sutlers traveling with the troops at this nine foot peak. The walls and peak height seem to approximate October 1862 battle campaign. the walls and peak height in the picture. The tent in the picture The Perryville 2002 event takes place over the weekend of looks to be about sixteen feet wide, but that is too much tent for 4-6 October 2002 at the Perryville Kentucky Battlefield State me. Park and the nearby town of Perryville, Kentucky. My plan is to be a garden-variety sutler, and to carry Sullivan The Watchdog crew has also volunteered to assist with Press items as well as other small consumables. The hope is civilian activities. Hopefully, the event committee will take up that I will be able to cover the expense of travel and time with my suggestion that the usual event lectures will be replaced sutler sales at the event. I also planning to get a wet plate image with impression improvement workshops for military and of my new setup next spring, so that we can compare old and civilian participants. new. And finally, it is very important to remember that the majority of the excellent sources of reproduction material culture Kathryn Coombs: for our role-playing activity come from merchants who do not Now what does the DOG have to say about this? First, set up at events. Our database lists over four hundred sources Kathryn Coombs, our shopping scout, has a few comments. and even at the biggest event there may be no more than sixty Just because sutlers make their money at mainstream events or seventy field merchants. Just as the community has embraced is no reason to justify selling "farby" stuff. You [Bob Sullivan] different styles of military camping arrangements and civilian and several others sell good stuff at these big events and it helps accommodations, perhaps the differences between field to raise the overall standard and educate the masses. As far as I merchants and sutlers will find its place. am concerned, the main reason to go to a big "turbofest" is to Mr. Christen shop [See her review of civilian shopping at First Manassas in NOTE: the FALL 2001 (9.4) issue; some great stuff among all the crud] [I] The original is a Brady image from the Library of Congress. I have it in two To mainstreamers, it is a reenactment. To me, it is a big canvas books. The first is Peddlers and Post Traders, The Army Sutler on the Frontier, by David Michael Delo, University of Utah Press, 1992.The second is M,: Lincoln's shopping mall, sometimes with a nice lecture series attached. Camera Man: Matthew Brady by Roy Meridith, Dover, 1974 (originally copyright Different strokes for different folks! 1946). This book has much greater detail in the photograph, and shows the original In terms of sutlering at quality EBUFU [Events By Us For negative number (2448) scratched into the plate. According to this book, the Us] events, I would like to see more of them allow a handful of photograph originally appeared as part of series that was to be displayed at Camegie Hall in 1896 as part of "Matthew Brady's Lantern Slide Lecture." Brady fell ill quality sutlers at registration-away from the event itself. At I tam

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.cd.ro3qlu!~ 'uo!s!A!a puo:,ag aql 30 JapnS aql uosuqo[ iuai atp s! sq~'tpuow lad skpOM] lo auo wtp slow qse3 MolIaj t? daay 01 lua!3r&ns a~oldIOU p!p tpuom e sm~lopuaarr!tp 'uo!~odo~du! sBu!q, latpo pue 'ut?:, ad mllop t? 1t?ypu psuapuo:, ql!~ lnq 'palse1 Lauow atp Jaljoalaql sLep Maj aql 103 put? Lt?p Led uo ales Lpeai punoj 'sa3pd q8qd1awar)xa 1e "na '.na 'o:,:,eqol pa44nld 'ypw pasuapuo:, 'saye:, 1a%u!8 'saq:,aad pauue:, 'sau!pieS .Lt?d s,.ra!pTos aql jo lsow atp 10%oq~ MoIlaj aql st?&~adaaya~ols dwie io lallns aqL 'IuaL s,ial)ng v -62 'ON,,'SMOITOJ se (dpt?lgdq) pauo!ldt?:, s! pue yooq alnl:,al aql u! 62 JaqwnN st? u~oqss! 11 .ua~!%aq plno:, uo!leluasa.rd aql aJo3aq '9681 &nut?[ 91 uo Pa!P PW Evidence of McDowell-pattern Forage Caps in the Western Union Army, 1863

Of all the forage caps documented to the American Civil money. Have the cloth heavy dark blue. That is strong. The cap War, one of the more interesting variants was the so-called to be as light as possible. Enclosed is the different sizes ..." "McDowell" pattern. Little more than a modification of the Clearly, Mitchell sought to procure McDowell pattern caps for Pattern of 1858 cap, the "McDowell" pattern featured a body of his company, by way of a private Milwaukee maker. Each man dark blue wool broadcloth, a crown of varying height, a thin was to purchase his own cap, the cost to be borne individually. patent-leather chin strap with buckle adjustment, and a narrow, Equally important, Mitchell has provided to historians and crescent-shaped leather brim that sloped down across the researchers evidence of the use of the term "McDowell pattern" wearer's forehead. It was this brim that gave the cap its during the war. [3] distinctive appearance. The cap lining often consisted of black Mr. Mitchell came through for Company D, as evidenced polished cotton or silk, frequently quilted with elaborate stitching by Billy's 6 September letter to his father: "The caps arrived and bearing a maker's stamp or label. The sweatband was alright and suit us all." Later, in a letter dated 14 September, frequently made from maroon or black tooled Morocco leather. Mitchell again mentioned the forage caps: "Shirts (fancy officers) The cap became a favorite of General Irwin McDowell, and he & caps sell very high. Caps such as you sent to the Compy [sic] was seen in images and woodcuts in this distinctive headgear. cost 300 or 350 [sic] here." Billy's letter, sent from the First Some collectors like Don Troiani have opined that the cap "has Wisconsin's bivouac near "Steven's Gap," proved to be one of in recent years been named after him by collectors." This may his last. 141 or may not be the case, as we shall see later. [I] There seems little doubt that Company D wore their new For more than a quarter century one mantra of American forage caps, complete with company letters, into action at Civil 4ar study (quoted repeatedly by the reenacting community) Chickamauga just five days later 19 September 1863. On the has bekn: "Eastern troops wore forage caps; Western troops wore morning of the 19th, young Captain William Mitchell was killed slouch hats." In many cases, this hymn has rung true. Images in action by a musket ball that struck him "in the neck just at of soldiers serving in the East frequently show the government the hollow of the breast bone and came out at the small of his pattern forage cap or one of its private-purchase cousins. Images back.. ." Fellow soldiers buried Mitchell's remains in the early of soldiers serving in the West often include the Army dress hat morning hours of 20 September. Later, Billy's brother Thomas or a civilian replacement. Exceptions to this imperative journeyed to Georgia in order to recover the body, obtain any abound.. . but most amateur historians seem to dismiss them as personal effects and settle any outstanding accounts. exclusionary. The process of proper internment of Mitchell, securing his Enter a series of letters written by Captain William "Billy" effects and settling financial issues took many months. As for Mitchell, Company D, First Wisconsin Infantry. The First the McDowell pattern cap purchase, Mitchell family Wisconsin had been organized from a three-month regiment correspondence revealed an epilogue. Hubbard F. Stone, clerk that saw action at Falling Waters, Virginia several weeks before of Company D, wrote a 5 January 1864 letter to Thomas in First Bull Run. As a three-year regiment the First Wisconsin which he labored to describe the settled accounts of Mitchell. fought fiercely at Penyville where it saved a Federal battery, Stone assured Billy's brother: "In regard to the Cap affair I captured a Confederate battle flag and earned the sobriquet "The would state that each member of the Co. that rec'd one paid the Bloody First." Later, it served with distinction at Stones River money to Capt. M previous to his ordering them as he would (Murfreesboro), and again as part of the Tullahoma Campaign not consent to processing them unless they done [sic] so." [5] in the summer of 1863. Images of the First Wisconsin from this Mr. Braun time-period confirm that state sources equipped- -- the regiment NOTES: with forage caps. [2] [I] Echoes of Glory: Arrns and Equipnienr of the Union, Time-Life Books, Not only does the evidence suggest that the First Wisconsin Alexandria, Virginia, 1991, Major Jacob Hardenburgh cap, Seward R. Oshorne collection, Olivebridge, New York; Don Troiani, "The Collection," wore forage caps through the summer of 1863, the www.dontroiani.com~collection/foragecap.html.Mr. Troiani notes that the cap correspondence of Captain Mitchell points to a sequence of "...appears to be a copy of the Austrian fatigue cap 'Lager Mutze,"' pages 160, events that led to the private purchase of McDowell-pattern 177, 180-1. forage caps by Mitchell's Company D. [2] Frederick H. Dyer,.A Compendium of the War of the Rebellion, Dayton Press of Morningside Books Shop, Dayton, Ohio, 1979 (reprint of 1908 edition),Vol. 2. On 3 August 1863, Captain Billy wrote his father Pages 1673-4 John S. Mitchell in Milwaukee: "... I wish you or Tom would [3] Letters of William Mitchell, Jan Mitchell collection, Northfield, Minnesota. see Sivyer or Uncle Ben and have 36 caps made for the company Copy in the Milwaukee County Historical Society collection. of the McDowell pattern-the same as the small one I wore [4] Ibid. [5] Ibid. home. Be careful & not get the McClellan style.. .The crown & peak of leather, the peak very heavy & stiff. To each cap, have PUBLISHER'S NOTE: [a] small letter "D" of old English letters. Sivyer charged me All rights reserved by the author. No other use of this article, reprinting, copying or $1.50 each for those he furnished me. By having 36 made you otherwise saving or recovering from information storage and retrieval systems is permitted without the express written permission of the author, Robert A. Braun. can get them for probably $1 each. The letters will not cost much. The men have paid me or will when I get ready for their More First Class Bottles from Dog River Glassworks

Our hobby has made tremendous strides since I first took archaeological excavation reports in even the most temporary to the field in the early 1970s. We traded on our polyester of camps reveals a wide array of bottle fragments. Literally uniforms for wool and jean, increased the fidelity of our drill thousands of bottles have been excavated from campsites and and progressed beyond anything we would have believed possible battlefields. Black glass shards from ale, wine and whisky bottles when portraying the life of the average soldier. However, there are one of the most common finds at soldier occupied sites. The is one area of material culture that I feel is still grossly landmark publication, Look to the Earth, Historical Archaeology underrepresented. This area is period glass, in particular wine, and the American Civil War stated it best, "...alcohol bottles ale and champagne bottles. [whisky, ale, wine and champagne] are common artifacts at Civil I know what you are thinking. Here is the guy from War encampments." [2] Dog River Glassworks, a company manufacturing nineteenth- Even the recollections of soldiers mention bottles. Those century glass, writing about Civil War glass for the "good of familiar with Corporal Si Klegg and His Pard may recall the the hobby." "I'll bet he is going to tell us we should buy his passage that described the arrival of his missing Christmas box. product." [No, the editors will do that!] Well, I guess you are partially right, but you may want to read on anyway. I think you Almost everything had been eaten, and what remained was might learn a little something. hopeless ruin. Rough handling that would have done credit to a Saying that glass is underrepresented in our impressions railroad baggage-master, had broken bottles of pickles and jars truly is an understatement. Photography, archaeology and of fruit, and the liquids had thoroughly baptized the edibles soldier's accounts tell us that glass items were carried everywhere that the mule drivers had spared. It was a sorry mess, and Si's by soldiers. I am not just speaking of the diminutive inkwell. heart ached as he gazed upon the wreck." [3] Ale, wine, whisky, patent medicines, food and a myriad of other bottles found their way into winter camps, bivouacs and even to Although Si's bottles did not arrive in good shape, the passage the front lines. makes it clear that bottles did arrive in camp from home. Next time you are paging through your favorite reference However, the Adams Express Company or army mails were not books, look for bottles. You will see bottles in just about every the only means by which soldiers acquired bottles of their favorite setting. A quick review of some of the staple books illustrates foods and beverages. fumy sutlers were more than happy to my case. Page 114 in Echoes of Glory: Arms and Equipment of sell soldiers bottled products ranging from ginger ale, bottles the Union [I] shows a nice image of officers of the Eighty-second water and any sort of intoxicating beverage. If sutlers were not Illinois in camp near Atlanta, Georgia. Look on the table and present, soldiers bought bottled products or acquired them in you will notice three wine bottles and an imported champagne foraging "skirmishes in the neighborhood. bottle! Now turn to page 159. That is a nice wine bottle that the So ends my story. I leave it for you to decide. The humble steward has. For my Confederate friends, go to Echoes of Glory: bottle marched with, served and then was discarded on many a Arms and Equipment of the Confederacy. Page eight has one of field. It was a simple, yet integral part of every soldier's life. the most famous views of the war. Yes, friends, there is a reason Therefore, it deserves to be a part of our impression. the fellow in the bottom left is smiling. That is an ale bottle and Robert J. Dalessandro they are pouring from it. Time-Life Book's Tenting Tonight NOTES : volume abounds with pictures showing bottles in many settings. [I] Echoes of Glory: Anns and Equipment of the Union, Echoes of Glory: Anns Now that you are becoming more expert, I am sure you will and Equipment of tlte Confederacy, The Civil War series and the Voices of the Civil War series are all published by Time-Life Books, Alexandria, Virginia. spot the wine bottle right away on page thirteen, or the ale bottle [2] Clarence R. Geiter and Susan E. Winter, Look ro the Earth, Historical on page fourteen (look on the barrel). Look hard because our Archeolog). and the American Civil War,University of Tennessee Press, Knoxville, Confederate friends have one on page sixteen as well (harder to Tennessee, 1994, page 148. see here and note the man on the ground fourth from the right). [3] Wilbur F. Hinnman, Corporal Si Klegg and His Pard, Williams Publishing There is another in front of the common tent on page fifty-one, Company, Cleveland, Ohio, 1887, page 381. and, of course, the sutlers have them on page fifty-seven. The officers have a nice whisky bottle on page fifty-eight. There are PRODUCT REVIEW more to find, but I guess you have the idea by now. Voices of the Civil War (also by Time-Life Books) has some nice bottle views Porter, Ale, Wine, Food and too. Try pages thirty-seven, fifty-four and sixty-five. They are easy to find so no hints here. Now that you are looking, you will Cathedral Bottles be surprised at how many bottles you see. Archaeologists and relic hunters know that no matter how I was again pleased to see the contents of a box that arrived briefly a campsite was occupied, certain bottle products were from the Dog River Glassworks. It contained two samples of used and discarded. Soldiers carried or locally bought beverages, porter bottles. These are part of the companies expanded line of bitters, condiments, food products and patent medicines. They glass items (see "US Army Hospital Bottle" in the SPRING often carried flasks and inkwells. Any survey of the 2001 (9.2) issue). This long necked bottle remained popular throughout both the eighteenth and into mid-nineteenth century. Virginia residents must add 3.5 percent sales tax and all The Dog River version is based on an original in the Dalessandro Pennsylvania residents must add six percent sales tax to their collection. The porter bottle is un-embossed with a pontil mark, orders. The Dog River Glassworks has a new mailing address and comes in olive green only. and phone number. Telegraphic communication addresses The submitted samples were 24.5 centimeters (9.6 inches) and remain the same. 16.0 centimeters (6.3 inches) high, respectively. The diameter When the Watchdog is in the field this year we will have of the taller bottle was 9.2 centimeters (3.6 inches) and the these bottles with us and filled with, ahem, lemonade. diameter of the other was 7.8 centimeters (3.1 inches). The lip of the bottles is slightly imperfect to avoid confusion with Dog River Glassworks, 24D Forbes Avenue, Carlisle, PA 17013 originals. The taller bottle is $30. No price was included for the and (717) 243-4886 and [email protected] and web site at shorter battle. www.dogriverglassworks.com Dog River Glassworks also produces.. . Mr. Christen (w-.","* ...... an ale bottle based on originals found on the Bertrand and one in their collection. It is un-embossed, olive green "black glass," blown in a wooden mold with a pontil mark ($20).

...a wine bottle that is black glass, string lip and exhibits characteristics common to mid-nineteenth century wine bottles found in great quantity throughout every theater of the war. It is available in olive green ($20).

...a food bottle patterned on an original from Virginia. This is the most common form of food bottle used in the mid-nineteenth century. It is un-embossed, blown in mold with pontil scar and is available in clear or aqua ($20).

A cathedral pickle bottle is under development and should be available in early this spring.

- 7- 7 - .-

Ale Bottle Wine Bottle

Porter Bottle bod Bottle thedral Bottle

THE WW'CHDoti. A Reprise on the Word "Pard"

As far as first-person goes, some of the most often used Tom in Milwaukee. He presented some of the graphic awfulness phrases include those terms of endearment among friends. Of of the battle of Stones River (Murfreesboro) in which the First these, like "chum," "comrade," "old boy" and the like, one of Wisconsin participated. He then switched gears and wrote: the most time-honored has to be "pard." Recently, there was considerable debate over the use of the word "pard" as a correct Our Brigade was placed at the apex of the line, forming a period term. Author Paul Calloway presented a persuasive letter V and in front of us were [Confederate] sharpshooters. argument against "pard" in his "The Case for Comrade," which One in particular just made me move lively. I finally got behind many in the Civil War reenacting world deemed an iconoclastic a tree and the scoundrel sent a & [emphasis original] of his deathblow to the expression. [I] Reenactors rushed to exorcise to the right where the two kept up a cross fire. A Capt the word from newsletters, web pages and living history lexicon. commanding the 33rd Ohio could not move for these fellows. Several months after reading Mr. Calloway's work, I still They kept him between two trees for 2 days. He sent out could not shake the feeling that Wilbur F. Hinman [2] and his skirmishers twice but could not find them. I had a good laugh contemporaries did not seem to be the kind of chroniclers that to see him standing there in the rain hugging the tree. would insert a postwar period term into their pros and hold it out for hundreds of fellow war veterans to read and ridicule. Of This citation adds an additional clue in our study of the word course, my personal opinion is one thing; actual proof is quite "pard" in the American Civil War another. Mr. Braun Well-the proof has yet to be discovered. However, I did NOTES: come across an interesting clue while perusing the Mitchell [I] Paul Calloway's article, "The Case for Comrade," was first submitted for Letters, a collection of wartime correspondence written by publication to the Carnp Cl~aseGazette in 2001. We think it was published, but as our exchange copy never seems to make it though the blockade, we cannot say for Captain William S. "Billy" Mitchell of Company "D" First sure. It can be found on the Internet at www.authentic-campaigner.com. Wisconsin Infantry. The First Wisconsin served as one of the [2] Wilbur F. Hinnman was the author of Corporal Si Klegg and His Paid, Williams state's premiere regiments, unfortunately their history has yet Publishing Company, Cleveland, Ohio, 1887. to be presented in book-length format. The Mitchell Family donated a bound copy of the transcribed letters to the Milwaukee PUBLISHER'S NOTE: All rights resewed by the author. No other use of this article, reprinting, copyingor County Historical Society. otherwise saving or recovering from information storage and retrieval systems is In a letter dated 8 January 1863, Billy wrote to his brother permitted without the express written permission of the author, Roben A. Braun.

MR. YINGLING'S MEMORANDA OF INTELLIGENCE

Dan Wambaugh sent me the following: development process. Dan Wambaugh can be contacted at [email protected] In light of recently received information from a historian specializing in the In regard to Matt Caldwell's sack coat, Joe Hofmann replied, material culture of the nineteenth century, I have decided to reproduce a different Schulkyll Arsenal sack coat. The coat (discussed in the FALL 2001 issue) featured "It is quoted that I charge $245 for one of his lined Cincinnati a two-piece body and one-piece sleeve. There are two reasons why I decided not to Depot sacks. I charge $165. The $245 is for the completely reproduce this particular fatigue blouse (the original is in the Smithsonian). hand sewn, unlined Schulkyll Arsenal sack." Also the $160 for The first is that this sack coat is the only example to feature a two -piece body the Pat Brown sack coat is correct. It is unlined. and one-piece sleeve. It has been my goal as an enactor to portray myself in the most plain, everyday and common way possible As a reproducer of garments I Here is the link for Dave Terrant. I would like to see some have followedthis rule as well. Thus, even if this coat was issuedin numbers (which samples of his goods. Have any of our readers seen his products? is unlikely) the few I have produced are probably all that the enacting community Check them out at http://homestead.juno.com/dterrant7wv/ should have, based upon the fact that this type is definitely in the minority compared The Haversack Depot's new web site is at to the other surviving original Schulkyll blouses. The second is that the original, to my eye, shows no signs of ever having been www.haversackdepot.com issued, or having been worn for very long if it was issued. Moreover, there is no Casey Osgood has decided to offer up another source for way to date the blouse to a specific year or period of the war. That makes it difficult accurately reproduced items. They can be seen at to determine whether the blouse is appropriate for specific impressions. http://calicoboys.tripod.com/osgood. I am waiting for review Thus, I have chosen to reproduce a Schulkyll blouse that has a known provenance. In the opinion of the researcher (who has examined a number of samples. originals) it is a good example of the typical blouse produced by the arsenal. The Michael Echols collects and writes about pre-1870 original is in a private collection. It was issued to a Sergeant in a New York regiment. American surgical amputation sets used in the Civil War. There It features a four-piece body and two-piece sleeve. This is common, not only of is extensive information at his web site about collecting and most Schulkyll blouses, but of most blouses issued during the war. The construction is similar in quality to the other blouse; meaning that it is mediocre at best. There identifiying various medical instruments. His web site is at are a number of special features that set it aside from others issued during the war. www.braceface.com/medical Mr. Yingling Dan will submit one of his new blouses shortly. I am assured of his continued attention to detail that was part of the first coat's C. S. Storms (the Contractor, not Rainy Weather in Dixie)

Here is a little that I know about Mr. C. S. Storms. It comes NOTE: primarily from Paul Johnson's book, Civil War Cartridge Boxes [I] Civil War Cartridge Boxes of the Union D~fantryman,Paul Johnson, Andrew Mowbray Publishers, PO BOX 460, Lincoln, Rhode Island 02865,1998 (see review of the Union Infantryman and from the Directory of American in the FALL 1998 (6.4) Watchdog);A Directory of American Military Goods Military Goods Dealers and Makers, 1785-1915 by Dealers & Makers, 1785-1915, Bruce S. Bazelton and William F. McGunn, self- Bruce S. Bazelon and William F. McGuinn. [I] published, 1990. Christian Schaeffer Storms was not a newcomer to the business of supplying military accoutrements at the beginning PRODUCT REVIEW of the Civil War. In fact, the Storms firm was a significant supplier of military goods for several decades before the war. Tim Welch's C.S. Storms Cap Box Christian's father, Henry Storms, opened a business as a saddle maker in New York around 1818. He sought contracts to supply military goods during most of the decades prior to the Civil We received two samples of a C.S. Storms marked cap box War. The firm advertised as a supplier of "Military & Naval from Tim Welch of L.D. Haning and Co. Mr. Christen, Mr. furnishings." The firm's street address changed often; usually Yingling and I inspected them over the course of several months located on either Water or Fulton Streets in New York City. late last year. The second sample was sent after our initial Christian took over the firm in 1849, but the business failed discussions with Tim about a few details. Since then we have by 1854. Storms then moved to St. Louis, Missouri and secured stayed in touch with him and he assures me that the cap boxes minor contracts for military goods. During the early part of the are available. Delivery time is eight to ten weeks. The price of Civil War he returned to New York and secured contracts for the box is $49.50 plus shipping. military accoutrements. He is listed as having contracted for Tim also offers Federal cartridge box slings (smooth or twenty thousand accoutrement sets (of unknown caliber) in May waxed flesh side out), belt plates and buckles, canteen straps, 1861 and another twenty thousand sets (.58 caliber) in late cap boxes with state shield or Confederate shield fronts, Pattern September of the same year. In July 1862 he was awarded of 1839 and 1857 (.69 cal) cartridge boxes, Pattern of 1863 contracts for thirty thousand .69 caliber and fifteen thousand New York Arsenal cartridge boxes (.58 cal), Confederate .58 caliber sets. He also had a small contract with the State of manufactured cartridge boxes (.58 cal), a Confederate (James New York for accoutrements in 1863. Kibbler, Tenth Virginia Infantry) single bag knapsack, oil cloths A set of infantry accoutrements as contracted by the US and housewives. army included a cartridge box, a cartridge box plate, a waist The stitch count and overall quality stand up very well next belt, a waist belt plate, a bayonet scabbard and frog, a cap box to my two original cap boxes (ten stitches per inch). I also like with cone pick and a rifle sling. the fact that he uses shoemaker's wax on the thread. The only Christian Storms also contracted to renovate broken difference in this regard which I can see is the thread on my accoutrement items and combine them into new sets. The original boxes looks a little thinner. I should add that this did Quartermaster Department issued these sets as Second Class not seem to bother several well-known accoutrement collectors items. In the fall of 1863 the Ordnance Departments at who also looked at one of the samples. Watervillet, Frankford, Washington and Fort Monroe arsenals Again, compared with the originals, the dimensions are were ordered to send the unserviceable items to Storms in New right on the money. The only problem I found on the first sample York City. This means that after late 1863 and until the end of of this excellent reproduction was the finial. At S/s inch it was a the war some accoutrement sets could contain items from little too long and pointed. Both my originals have finials that different contractors and contain items with a mixture of are '116 inch long with more of a rounded tip. contractor identification. Storms was the low bidder on this At this point in the review process, Tim sent another sample contract, but was, nonetheless, a competent accoutrements maker with a revised finial. The revised finial is the correct size and is and had the confidence of the US Army in his goods. now standard on all of his C.S. Storms boxes. I mention this as The cap box I reproduce is based on an original Storms an indication of a supplier who is willing to go to the extra box in my collection. It is listed in my catalogue as what we call effort on a minor detail that ninety-nine percent of us would not the 1850 pattern Federal issue. I am sure Fred Gaede or Paul see when standing in ranks together. ARF! Johnson is doing research on the correct designation. & As with all items I produce, it is constructed with oak- L.D. Haning Co., Tim Welch, 9560 Neiswander Rd, Ashville, tanned leather (as specified in arsenal contracts), linen thread OH 43 103 and (614) 837-5475 and [email protected] or drawn through a waxed rosin compound, a wool lining sewn in [email protected] and www.ldhaining.com and a cone pick loop sewn in. Stitching is consistent with the original, particularly in the fashion by which the belt loops are Mr. Simmons attached. The stamp used is a duplicate of the original marking. Tim Welch

'HE WATCI WIT RETAIL REVIEW

Beth Miller Opens New Store in Gettysburg

On 5 January your reviewer attended the opening of "Circa Beth also does fine quality custom men's civilian clothing. Historic Attire" in Gettysburg. This new shop, a partnership between For those on a tighter budget, the shop also offers a full line of noted reproduction clothing maker Beth Miller Hall and antique Kate's "Mourning Glories," reproductions of jet, bog oak, gutta jewelry dealer Kate John, will rapidly become a major asset to the percha, vulcanite and pressed horn brooches, belt clasps and civilian side of the hobby. bracelets, cast from originals, which are great for reenacting because As well as becoming the new place to go for fittings for custom they look right and you can wear them without fear of damaging clothing by Beth Miller Hall, the shop also features a selection of them. They also cany the two colognes offered by theArabia museum top quality ready-made reproductions. And more! To clothe the and an assortment of other useful bibelots. authenticity-minded living historian from top to toe, the shop also Circa not only sells items of use to living historians, they also offers excellent millinery by Beverly Lister's "Fashionable Follies" offer personal consulting on improving your historic impression. and a wide selection of Robert Land shoes. The shop is arranged in a convivial way with seating that welcomes In addition, Circa also sells a selection of Civil War era antiques, the visitor to stop in and chat. In that respect, it is as much a place to including clothing for study purposes, CdVs and cased images, learn about the clothing and material culture of the era as it is a books, china and glassware. One of the real highlights is the antique place to buy things. Located on the site of the former "Ladies of the jewelry selected by Kate John, who has an excellent eye. The prices Blue and Gray" on Baltimore Pike, Circa is a convenient walk from are in line with what you'll find suggested in collectors guides like Spiros Marinos' shop, long thought of as the "guy's clubhouse." Warman's. No bargain prices here because they know what they are Now the women have a clubhouse too. and about time! re selling, but the good news is that you can buy with total confidence and learn a lot about the jewelry of the early to mid-nineteenth century Circa Historic Clothiers, Beth Miller Hall, 1015 Baltimore Pike, in the process. Gutta percha? Whitby jet? Hair jewelry? Lava cameos? Gettysburg PA 17325 and (717) 337-3171. Opening hours for Micro-mosaics and pietra dura pieces? They have got it all. wintertspring: Fridays 1-9 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. - 9 p.m., Sundays, While the primary focus is on clothing and accessories for 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. women, the general antiques will be of interest to gentlemen as well. Kathryn Coombs

FEEDBACK AND FOLLOW-UP

Myths Questioned. After the War of 1812, Scott's compilations and continued study My compliments on the "Reenacting Myths Dispelled" article relied heavily on Smyth's manual and the French 1790 Regelement. in the FALL 2001 issue. I hope you will continue this type of article. Scott essentially dominated tactical thinking in the United States I have been with an artillery unit for the past three seasons and from 1828 until the outbreak of the Civil War. Nowhere in the observed that many artillery enactors have a position for "Parade manuals Scott either wrote or influenced is there a mention of any Rest" that is different than the infantry position for "Parade Rest parade rest that moves the left foot or crosses the arms across the Without Arms" specified in the school of the soldier. These artillery chest. folks insist that the artillery "Parade Rest" position is to step back While I am not familiar with artillery manuals (i. e., Gibbon) I with the left foot and fold the arms across the chest. would guess that any parade rest in the artillery might mirror that I have done some research to verify this position and so far given in Revised US Army Regulations.. .as perhaps the final arbiter have not found it described in any manual. I have not seen it in of such things. period photographs. I mentioned this to one of the older enactors I find it strange that Mr. Peters' artillely group, which no doubt and he responded that I must not be looking in the right manuals. shared with Mr. Peters its "School of the Piece" drill, its uniform He did not bother to say what manual was the correct one. Could requirements, membership requirements, event schedule and a host you shed any light on this? Brian G. Peters of other communal information,would be reticent to reveal the source of such a seemingly trivial thing as the source for their "unique" I am familiar with numerous antebellum drill interpretation of "Parade, REST." manuals.. .unfortunately all are for infantry. I consulted von Steuben, The common mantra of reenacting has been that the "burden of War of 18 12 manuals including Smythe, the 1828 "Abstract," Scott's proof rests with the wearer." For years I attended reenactments and Tactics for 1836 and later editions, Hardee's 1855 manual, living history events armed with photocopies of images and letters US Infantry Tactics as authorized by Secretary Cameron, Baxter's, that supported my wearing of so-called "sport shoes" or wearing Chandler's, and Casey's Infantry Tactics. I even checked the British my cartridge box on my waist belt, or a shortened blouse, or an Manual Exercise of 1764 (although I could not locate my copy of officer's hat cord on my enlisted man's dress hat, etc. etc. My view the translated Prussian drill manual for the American Revolution is that it is more incumbent on the practitioners of this "Parade, period). None offer the "Parade Rest" describe by Mr. Peters. REST" evolution to prove their case, than it is incumbent on Mr. American tactical thought generally emanated from only two Peter's to disprove it. Mr. Braun sources: the British and the French (with apologies to von Steuben).

THE JINTB Feedback from Manassas ~erchantReview. While I certainly appreciate the kind words regarding our I had two positive bits of feedback from my article (FALL 2001) original hook and eyes in your Sutler's Row review at Manassas, with two rather nifty positive developments. please understand that you came far from cleaning me out of them. The ladies at Galla Rock Sutlery got back to me and said they In addition to the single odds and ends of loose small hook and appreciated the mention. They gave me documentation for their dress eyes, there are dozens of original manufacturer's cards of enameled, pattern. Dialogue ensured. I pointed out that the documentation did brass, and nickel-plated hooks and eyes in my stock. These run not account for a cotton calico, and it would look more appropriate anywhere from an average of $3 a card on up to $10 and $15, and more like the original Peterson's fashion plate, if it was done in depending on quantity and condition of the hook and eyes. silk or wool. I also pointed out the lack of solid documentation for Also, our Size #6 black enameled hook and eyes are basically fitted cotton bodices and that they are, therefore, badly new, but not of current manufacture. They are of nineteenth-century overrepresented. Instead of getting all offended and defensive, this style without the center bar spring in the hook, which are now so piqued their curiosity and got them doing more research and prevalent at fabric stores today. These Size #6 are upwards of sixty exchanging e-mails. Hurrah! years old or more, and came right from their original manufacturer's It turns out they are working on a new pattern that will be a boxes. They were all purchased from defunct and out of business copy of a gathered bodice, everyday cotton calico dress from their tailoring suppliers and at estate sales and auctions of old Amish collection. When this is ready it will become the new "default dress" and Mennonite dry goods stores. We will be soon offering other among their ready-made items. This will give us yet another sizes from this same lot. We have boxes which contain great grosses alternative to the Past Pattern gathered bodice (which while modeled each (twelve gross) and will not be running out of them any time on an original, is atypical in style) and to the Homespun Patterns soon. There will be plenty of smaller sizes for the entire readership gathered bodice dress. A bit of diversity within the envelope of "Miss of the DOG and more. The smaller sizes will be cheaper than seventy- Normal" has got to be a good thing! five cents per set which is the price of the Size #6, but I do not have The Galla Rock folks seem to have really gotten into research a price for you at the moment. and are taking trips to museums, studying and photographing In addition, a bit of Button Biz and accessory originals and have now become active posters on the Authentic information.. .Although not very common, the center spring or bar Campaigner web site's civilian forum. I suggested to them that as in the hook (for the hook and eye set) that is more prevalent today, they get their new pattern ready for market that they submit it to seems to appear on some originals that are on their original Mrs. Soszynski for comment. I also told them about what the Atlanta nineteenth-century manufacturer's cards. The vintage ones have History Center was doing with its new pattern in offering a booklet actually a shorter center bar, not extending three-quarters of the length of notes on the provenance and construction of the original (with of the hook but only about one-quarter to one half the length. They photographs). I suggested that, rather than risk pricing themselves only resemble the modem style hooks (the center bar is to give the out of the market among reenactors just looking for a nice pattern, hook more spring and to lock it into the eye, thus preventing it from that they provide an abbreviated form of these notes in the basic coming loose). After a close examination of the stock of two major pattern, with the option of buying the full booklet of notes and photos nationwide chain fabric stores, it was found indeed, that both the as an add-on. old style hooks and eyes can be found as well as the new more The other rather nifty bit of feedback was from Tom Mattimore. modem looking ones. Most fabric outlets have hooks and eyes in He was very grateful that I had sung his praises. In the article I also small quantity packaging located with the buttons and accessories. queried his documentation on the women's "flats" shown on his These are always in the self-serve peg hook sections along the walls web site that appear to have wedge heels. He asked my advice on of the stores. Hooks and eyes can still be purchased in the black what sort of ladies shoes (versus boots) might be possible and noted enamel and the shiny nickel finishes but if you need larger quantities, that he was probably about to embark on a project to copy the you have to double up on the number of packages you buy. Also, not woman's brogan-type shoe found on the Arabia. He asked my advice all sizes are available at every outlet, this is true particularly the on its potential sales among women enactors and what other sort of military Size #6 and the much larger sizes for capes and talmas. shoes might be of interested (color me flattered!) I told him the Arabia John A. Zaharias shoe project sounded wonderful. Because many people are leery of anything new and unfamiliar, it would make sense to come out with When I said I would have "cleaned him out" of brass hooks the documentation simultaneously with the product, including lots and eyes, I merely meant the supply he brought to one event of plain of photographs of the original shoe on his web site. brass ones, not his whole inventory and not his japanned brass ones. I also suggested that he consider making slippers/shoes for I guess all I got was the supply he actually brought and had out on dancing and indoor/parlour wear. While period accounts suggest display.. .I cleaned out all the brass hooks that had eyes that matched. that ankle boots (mostly silk) were starting to overtake slippers for There was still a handful of the mid-century type of japanned brass ballroom wear by our era, nonetheless a lot of people were still hooks but no matching eyes plus cards of later nineteenth to early wearing them and they are under-represented at our events. People twentieth century black ones. But hey, I did say that he is worth say nice things about the Grape Hill Sutlery ball slippers but they visiting to see what he has in stock. If this is the angriest brickbat I are very expensive for what they are and take ages to get. There is a get, 1'11 be a happy bunny. market gap there that he ought to try to help fill. I would like to . After submission that I did forget one key vendor, Don upgrade from the slippers I got from "Just Plain Flats" which, while Griffiths of Re-enactment Eyewear, who invariably has great stuff. they are nice, are basically Regency era (no heel, straight lasts and Hope his feelings are not hurt. [Don is the source for correct optical round toes. ..my Jane Austen shoes). Kathryn Coombs items. He is at RR #4, Box 62, Williamsport, PA 17701 and (717) 322-9849] Kathryn Coombs

1 fE WATCHDOG. WINTER 2002 What's a Mother to do?

Dressing babies and toddlers can be a discouraging task leather boots are virtually impossible to find. Look for a very for the nineteenth-century historian. Anxious to show off a new plain black lace up shoe without a ripple sole. Brown would be baby, many folks simply dress the little one in a period style- an acceptable second choice. In studying numerous CdVs and christening gown, an item easily attainable, if not inexpensive. in the collections at the Steamboat Arabia Museum, you will While not the best choice, the reenactor/historian soon finds notice that boys and girls usually wore the same type of shoe, at that dressing the youngest of the family will become increasingly least for everyday wear. difficult. With this review the Watchdog will begin a continuing We have examined a pair of black lace-up shoes from Wal- series on affordable and acceptable clothing for children. Mart and found that for the price, they would be a good choice Since this is our late winterlearly spring issue, it is time for a child's ever-changing shoe size. The shoes are vinyl, and appropriate to discuss shoes for the toddler or young child. [It although not perfect, they would be a good alternative to custom is also appropriate since Mr. Christen has two brand new made shoes. [In the DOG'S dictionary this is called the "best grandsons and Mrs. Kalil's three-year-old grandson, Caleb, available" solution.] made his debut as a citizen at the Watchdog tent at Manassas The brand is "No Boundaries" and the style number is last year.] In another month or two it will be extremely difficult 4972515 (Children's Boots). They are available in toddler and to locate any shoe in the children's department other than young children's sizes. The retail price is under eight dollars. sneakers. At the moment, however, it is still possible to find At this price it would be a good idea to pick up several pair in boot type and lace up shoes. As an additional plus, most have graduated sizes. been marked down to clearance prices. Vinyl predominates, as Mrs. Kalil PRODUCT UPDATE Fugawee "Victoria" Woman's Shoe

In the SUMMER 2000 (8.3) number Mrs. Kalil and I 7-8-9-10 and B width. (FIG 3) According to Art Ayotte some discussed the footwear for women I stated that the Fugawee ladies get the Victoria in Bone color and dye the toe cap andlor shoe called the "Victoria" may not have been a period design. I scalloping in a contrasting color. was wrong. Thanks to the research by Art Ayotte we know that the combination'of an elastic side or sides and buttons (with Fugawee Corporation, 3127 Corriib Drive, Tallahassee, FL mock buttonholes) was an extant shoe design in the 1860s. 32308 and (800) 749-0387 and [email protected] and The combination of elastic gusset and ornamental buttons www.fugawee.com (FIG 1) is seen on a man's Balmoral shoe from the 1860s. The source of the original image is June Swann's book, Shoemaking. For further study on women's shoes I suggest Nancy [I] This shoe has two elastic gussets and buttons with mock Rexford's Women's Shoes in America, 1795-1930, Kent State buttonholes. You may see an opening on the opposite side of University press, Kent, Ohio, 2000 the shoe where the other gusset has fallen away. Note the long, Mr. Christen flat chisel toe extending well forward of the actual toe. NOTE: The Fugawee "Victoria" model is a fully leather lined and [I] Swann, June, Shoemking, Shire Album, UK, 1986 (reprinted 1993). page 45. has a flat heel. It has a tapered, square toe cap and is made of Swann is considered by many to be an expert on historical footwear. glove leather on a leftjright last. Apparently Fugawee has received feedback that "ladies with sturdy feet or stronger ankles" were experiencing difficulty slipping on the shoe. Fugawee made an appropriate change that placed a second hidden elastic gusset on the inner side of the shoe. This enlarges the pass line, allowing easier entry. This design change will be incorporated in all "Victoria" models.This problem may have been common in the 1860s and might have contributed to the lack of popularity of this design. Shoes with elastic on both sides are much easier to slip on. The use of elastic was a way to make buttoned shoes fit better and eventually elastic-sided shoes proved to be even easier to put on. The shoe is available in black and bone. It sells for $72 . . . . plus $7 shipping. Sizes for both the Victoria and Rose models ...... are from 6 to 11 in medium and wide widths. Currently, the FIG 1. Original Man's Shoe with Elastic Side, Buttons and "Victoria" model (in bone color) is stocked in whole sizes Mock Buttonholes (image from Fugawee web site). 19 THE WATCHDOG. 'VINTlt 002

P-- THE VIGILANT SOLDIER Women Enacting Military Roles: Twenty-first Century Ideals and Nineteenth Century Fact

A Quote from an On-line Civil War Message Board. and if that is all that is against them they must be disposed of in "Perhaps this would be a perfect opportunity for the next immersion some other way." [2] There is at least one instance of a female in event, for the coordinators to restrict women in ranks unless they uniform who had her pants cut off and made to wear a dress. [3] can document a specific person to that specific scenario . . . I do not know of a single record of there actually being a public AND CANNOT BE DETECTED! ! !" drumming out of the woman. There is documentation that supports This is a recurrent item in such discussions, which has always the fact that some "discovered" women were allowed to remain in puzzled me.. .if a woman in the original ranks of a given unit can be the ranks. Keith Blaylock, Twenty-sixth North Carolina Infantry, documented, then baning 6ne or two historical exceptions, this Company F, swore to the recruiter, James Moore, that he would not woman was not successful at hiding her gender. This original enroll without his wife. Thus Malinda Blaylock was sworn as her historical female had to have been "discovered" to have husband's brother, Sam.. .all with the full knowledge of the recruiting documentation available about her. How can someone portray this officer. [4] role yet meet the modern-day criteria of remaining undetected? Her Arthur J. Freemantle in his Three Months in the Southern States historical counterpart did not do it. In fact, there can be no possible mentions a woman who he saw on a train. "They told me that her documentation for the one hundred percent successful gender sex was notorious to all the regiment, but no notice had been taken disguised woman soldier until after the war. of it so long as she conducted herself properly. They also said that Think about it. Close your eyes and take yourself back in time. she was not the only representative of the female sex in ranks" [s] Imagine looking at a nineteenth-century lady walking down the Colonel Geary, while on a journey to Atlanta from Augusta, streets of any major city at the time. What is she wearing? A hat? "...discovered a Confederate Captain in one of the ladies. Her Yes. A Dress? Yes. Hoops? Maybe. What would she look like in husband was a major in the Confederate army and she had taken an trousers? Can you imagine it? If you are using a nineteenth century active part herself in the war, and fairly earned her epaulettes." [6] mind set, then your answer should have been "Women don't wear A communication from Major-General Irvin McDowell to trousers, so I don't know what they would look like in them." Major-General John Pope dated 26 August 1862: Sarah Morgan illustrates the nineteenth century mind set when she wrote in her diary: General King reports he has received a flag of truce from General Anderson to return a woman dressed in man's clothes captured by Why was I not a man? What is the use of all these worthless them this morning. I report the circumstance, as it is the first women, in war times? If they attack, I shall don the breeches, and information I have of the presence of this division in our immediate join the assailants and fight, though I think they would be hopeless front. [7] fools to attempt to capture a town they could not hold for ten minutes under the gun boats. How do breeches and coats feel, I wonder? I In his missive, McDowell did not seem surprised about the woman am actually afraid of them. I kept a suit of Jimmy's hanging in the in man's clothes. There is no further reference to her in his letter. armoir [sic] for six weeks waiting for the Yankees to come, thinking During the battle of Peach TreeCreek (20 July 1864) an orderly fright would give me the courage to try it. (what a seeming paradox!) was captured and taken before General Hood, but refused to talk. A but I never succeeded. Lilly [sobriquet for Sarah's sister, Elizabeth female major rode up and saluted the general. She was described as Ann] one day insisted on my trying it, and I advanced so far as to lay wearing a cap with feathers and gold lace, flowing pants, a long it on the bed, and then carried my bird out-I was ashamed to let velvet coat that reached just below her hips, fastened with a crimson even by canary see me-but when I took a second look, my courage sash and partly open at the bosom. [8] deserted me, and there ended my first and last attempt at disguise. I In a letter to his father, Robert Ardry wrote of a battle near have heard so many girls boast of having worn men's clothes; I Dallas, Georgia. In the letter he states: "I saw 3 or 4 dead rebel wonder where they get the courage. [I] women soldiers in the heap of bodies." [9] There are also at least six documented incidences of women How does that concern reenacting the nineteenth century in a soldiers becoming pregnant while in uniform. Some of them hid twenty-fist century world? Simply this: a nineteenth century mind even their pregnancies so well that nothing was suspected until they set does not know what women in trousers look like: not for men or went into labor while on duty! The Sandusky, Ohio, Commercial for other women. What other current social and cultural ideas do we Register reported on 12 December 1864, that a baby boy had been bring to our nineteenth century life? I offer the following regarding born to a female officer in the Confederate Army imprisoned at women who field as soldiers: Johnson's Island. The same article further reported that there were Twenty-first Century Ideal. many reports of women in the Union Army as soldiers, but this was Women who were discovered were drummed out of the army. the first time the editor had gotten a report of a Confederate female Nineteenth Century Fact. soldier. [lo] On 19 April 1863 John V. Hadley wrote to his girlfriend There are accounts of some females in men's clothing being that the "lady soldier" previously referred to in the Army of the arrested as spies and jailed or released because "Wearing soldier's Potomac was sent home after delivering a baby. This "lady soldier" clothes in camp is not an offense for which they can be sent South seemed to have enlisted in a New Jersey regiment with her lover.

fl L THE WATCHDOG. WINTER 2802 She donned the male attire, passed examination and joined the "some of the real women went, but the boy girls were so much better company with him. She was with the company for nearly a year, looking that they left.. .no one could have told wich [sic] of the party fought in four battles, and no one suspected the truth up to the moment had fell on a hatchet." Another soldier agreed, and in a letter to his of birth. [ll] James Greenalch wrote to his wife on 20 August 1863 wife wrote: "We had some little Drummer boys dressed up and I'll that "a regiment that is camp't [sic] near us, the 74 Ohio, than an bet you could not tell them from girls if you did not know orderly Sergeant in that regiment has got a child, that the sergeant them.. .some of them looked almost good enough to lay with.. ." A turns out to be a woman with men's cloths [sic] on an has ben [sic] major at this same ball was fooled enough by one young "lady" that in the regement [sic] twenty months." [12] During 1865, the Tenth he cornered "her" in a drawing room, where "she" lifted up "her" New York Heavy Artillery and the Second Pennsylvania Veteran dress and asked the major if he liked what he saw. [16] Heavy Artillery were camped close to each other. In the Tenth New York Heavy Artillery, a sergeant was delivered of a "bouncing boy." Twenty-first Century Ideal. The sergeant had become "sick" on the picket line, was carried to You can pick out female soldiers by their feminine actions. the hospital and there gave birth on the morning of 6 March 1865. Nineteenth Century Fact. "For the first three or four days the event created great question The word "homosexuality" was not coined until 1895, but the among the two regiments as to its parental relations." [13] In a letter effeminate characteristics exhibited by some men were noted in the home, a soldier from a Massachusetts regiment wrote of "an orderly nineteenth Century. In The Story the Soldiers Wouldn't Tell: Sex in in one of our regiments and he and the corporal had a baby, for the the Civil War Lowry points out that Walt Whitman had several male/ corporal turned out to be a women! She has been in 3 or 4 fights." male encounters. One in particular, a deserter from the Second New [14] Colonel Elijah H.C. Cavins was prompted to write home about York Light Artillery was "somewhat feminine and has never been a corporal who "was promoted to sergeant for gallant conduct at the in a fight or had a drink of whiskey." [17] Another was described as battle of Fredericksburgh [sic] since which time the sergeant has being "fresh and affectionate." [IS] Not all men with effeminate become the mother of a child. What use have we for women, if characteristics are homosexual. Other things can come into play soldiers in the army can give birth to children? It is said that the whether is being raised solely by one parent, or perhaps with nothing sergeant and his Capt. occupied the same tent, they being intimate but sisters. The point is that there were effeminate men in the ranks friends." [IS] and in general society then as now. The previous examples would never have happened if someone in their company was not aware of their true gender and did not Twenty-first Century Ideal. bother to report it. Women do not have facial hair. Nineteenth Century Fact. Twenty-first Century Ideal. Indeed, neither did many soldiers at the time. A large number You can pick out woman soldiers by their feminine appearance. of soldiers between the ages of sixteen and twenty-five Nineteenth Century Fact. would only have just started growing facial hair. Take a really good look at some of the original period Twenty-first Century Ideal. photographs. Give some of those boys long hair and they could easily Men do not have a bust. pass for girls. In Thomas Lowry's book, The Story the Soldiers Nineteenth Century Fact. Wouldn't Tell: Sex in the Civil War there is an interesting story about If a female soldier is portraying the role correctly, she will not a ball held the night before Brandy Station. There were not enough have much of one either.. .no more than some men's. Men's fashions women available to dance, so some of the younger soldiers dressed of the time did emphasis the chest and this is somewhat reflected as ladies for the dance. A soldier wrote home a few days later that with padding in frock coats and vests. Can You Pick Out the Women Among These Soldiers? (photograph identification is provided on page 23) FIG C. FIG F. -&--- -*- 2

FIG D.

Would you attempt to pull any one of these soldiers out of a reenactment today? If you answer yes, then you are wrong! ! You are using the benefit of twenty-first century mind set, when you are supposed to be reenacting a nineteenth century period. These original women soldiers served with their male counterparts and were accepted as soldiers. What seems to be in demand from some re-enactors is an impossible standard. To require women military re-enactors to portray documented females in uniform is not the same as requiring them not to be detectable-that is, unless you want women in uniform to portray historical female soldiers, who were obviously unable to hide who they really were.. .

"Hey, ain't that a,fernale in your company?" "Yealz, the original Tl~irteentlzMississippi Mudsills had one who was found out, izarned Private Snzitlz, so Suzie, there, is FIG E. portra~~ingher: " In the end, women military re-enactors are left with a choice. Either portray a documented female soldier who had to have been discovered; or disguise themselves to the utmost of their ability and hope that any men that might notice things a little "out of the ordinary" will consider the nineteenth century mind set, and leave them alone. W. A. King and G. M. Atwater NOTES: [I] The Civil War Diary of Sarah Morgan, Edited by Charles East, University of Georgia, Athens Georgia, 1991, pages 116-1 17. [2] The War of the Rebellion: A Cornpilationof the Oflcial Records of the Union and ConfederateArmies (ORs), Govenunent Printing Office, Washington, 1889, National Hist. Soc. reprint, Gettysburg ,PA, 1972, Series 11, Vol. 5, page 548. [3] Record Group 393 (US hyContinental commands), Part I, entry 5812 (Army of Viginia, two or more name citizens file, 1861-66), file for Margaret C. Murphy and Mary Jane Green; Statement of Margaret Murphy to Provost Marshal at Annapolis, Maryland, May 1863. [4] Gragg, Rod, Civil War Quiz and Fact Book, New York, 1985, page 175; Wiley, Bell I., The Life of Johnny Reb, Louisiana State University Press, Baton Rouge, Louisiana, 1943, renewed 1970, page 334; Massey, Mary E., Bonnet Brigades, "HE WATCHDOC WINTER 2002 American Women & the Civil War, page 81; Fox, William F., Regimental Losses Photo Identifications. in the American Civil War; 1861-1865, Albany, New York, 1889, page 60. Which were female soldiers? The answers are B, C, E and F. [S] Freemantle, Arthur J., Three Months in the Southern States, William Blackwood A. A male, Private Benjamin Hall at age nineteen enlisted in and Sons, London, 1863 (reprinted 1984, Time-Life Books), page 174. [6] Ross, Fitzgerald, Cities and Camps of the Confederate States, edited by Richard the Duplin Rifles, North Carolina. [Photo courtesy of Cape Fear B. Hanvell, University of Illinois Press, Urbana, Illinois, 1958, page 116. Museum, Wilmington, North Carolina, 1984.28.1; Hall Collection] [7] Sparks, David S., Inside Lincoln's Army: The Diary of Provost Marshall B. Jennie [Irene] Hodgers who enlisted in the Ninety-fifth General Marsena Rudolph Patrick, New York, 1964, page 130; ORs, Series I, Illinois, 3 August 1862, under the name of Albert Cashier. She Vol. 16, S#16. continued her life after the war disguised as a man, and was not [8] Hall, Richard, Patriots in Disguise, Marlowe and Co., NY, 1994, page 162. [9] Museum of the Confederacy exhibition accompaniment, edited by Edward discovered until 1913 after a car accident landed her in a hospital. Campbell and Kym Rice, A Woman's War: Southern Women, Civil War and the [Photo from Illinois State Historical Library] ConfederateLegacy, Museum of the Confederacy and University hess of Virginia, C. Francis Hook who enlisted with her brother in the Sixty- 1996, page 93. fifth Illinois Home Guards, assuming the name of "Frank Miller." [lo] Hall, Richard, Patriots, page 160; Middleton, Lee, Hearts of Fire: Soldier She served three months, and was mustered out without her sex Women of the Civil War,Franklin, NC, 1993, page 20; Leonard, Elizabeth, All the Daring of the Soldier, W. W. Norton and Co., New York, 1999, pages 218-219. being discovered. She then enlisted in the Ninetieth Illinois, and [l 11 Hall, Richard, Patriots, pages 159-160. was taken prisoner in a battle near Chattanooga. [Photo courtesy of [12] Hall, Richard, Patriors, pages 160 and 203. Wayne Jorgenson] [13] Hall, Richard, Patriots, page 160. D. A male, Sergeant John Turner Hambrick, Caswell County, [14] Burgess, Lauren, An Uncommon Soldier, The Minerva Center, Pasadena, North Carolina, First Regiment North Carolina Foot Volunteers. Maryland, 1994, page xii. [Photo courtesy of North Carolina Division of Archives and History, 1151 Burgess, Lauren, An Uncommon Soldier, page 5. [16] Lowry, Thomas, The Story the Soldiers Wouldn't Tell: Sex in the Civil War, Raleigh North Carolina.] Stackpole Books, Mechanicksburg, Pennsylvania, 1994, pages 112-113. E. Sarah Emma Edmonds Seelye served with the Second [17] Lowry, Thomas, The Story the Soldiers Wouldn't Tell, page 110. Michigan as a (disguised male) nurse and spy. She Enlisted May [18] Lowry, Thomas, The Story the Soldiers Wouldn 'r Tell, page 111. 1861 and went AWOL April 1863 for fear of being discovered while having malarial attacks. In 1867 she married Linus Seelye and they This article is reprinted here with permission of the authors. It is published on-line at the Women Military Reenactors web site at www.geocities.com/womansoldier raised three children. In 1886 after petitioning the US government at the urging of her folmer comrades, she received a pension for her military service. [Photo courtesy of State Archives of Michigan] F. Frances Clalin served in Missouri Artillery and Cavalry companies. [Photo from Boston Public Library]

PRODUCT UPDATE More Blankets from County Cloth

Recently received from Fred Gaede and Charlie Childs: County Cloth's current blanket projects include:

Due to higher than expected interest in the 1859 US cavalry 1) Three-point trade blanket, white with blue end stripes and points, saddle blanket, we have been forced to reconsider the size of our $135 (available 8 February 2002). production run. The finished cost of each blanket will be $135. Each 2) 1812 era US Army blanket, white with blue end stripes, $125 will include the hand stitched "US" letters. Shipping for one blanket (available late February 2002). will be nine dollars (somewhat less per blanket for multiple orders). 3) 1820s era US Army blanket, white with blue end stripes, stenciled We ship our blankets via Priority Mail. In order to assist us in "US" letters, $135 (available late February 2002). producing enough blankets, we are requesting that you send us a 4) Mexican War era US Army blanket, white with blue end stripes, fifty dollar deposit for each blanket you wish to purchase. We would stenciled "US" letters, $145 (available early March 2002). like to see that deposit by 15 March 2002 so that we can make a 5) Civil War era US Navy blanket, white with blue end stripes, final decision on production size as soon as possible. Be advised stenciled "US Navy" lettering, $1 30 (available March 2002). that this blanket will not be available for several months. We will 6) Brown Confederate "Gettysburg" blanket, light brown with dark keep you apprised of its progress, but it will take time. brown end stripes. They made this one in very limited numbers seven There will be an accompanying Pattern of 1859 artillery saddle years ago and sold out before all orders could be accommodated. blanket (red with dark blue border stripes) following an original we While this run will be a bit larger than the earlier lot, they are only have located. Same cost as the cavalry saddle blanket, but a much projecting one hundred pieces. Order early and often! Price and smaller run. availability will be posted as soon as available. Samples from the earlier lot are available. All County Cloth's blankets are meticulously researched and are based on originals they have examined or from research in the County Cloth, 13797-C Georgetown St. NE, Paris, OH 44669 and Coxe-Irvine Papers, Record Group 92, National Archives, (330) 862-3307 and [email protected] Washington, DC (in which a number of early nineteenth-century www.bright.net/-crchilds blanket samples still reside). Mr. Christen

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Bill Christen, Publisher & Editor-at-fault Lynn Kalil, Assistant Editor Bob Braun, Associate Editor Charlie McCulloh, Associate Editor Mike Murley, Associate Editor .too1 Coat from the Sam Davis Unmn .. Lee Rainey, Associate Editor Rick Simmons, Associate Editor [ Put My Foot into It (1 sart onr Jomarie Soszynski, Associate Editor Wh tat's a Pirate to do? John Yingling, Associate Editor - --.- . Larry See, Web Site FAitor n regard to: "And Why Not Sutlers (as in the 1860s version)'!" cDowell-pattern Forage Caps in the Western Union Army, It HAS YOUR SUBSCRIPTION EXPIRED? More First Class Bottles from Dog River Glassworks There is a number after your name on your address label that looks like X.Y (X = volume, Y = issue, for example: the WINTER 2002 A Reprise on the Word "Pard' I I issue is (10.1). This number indicates the last issue of your im Welch's C.S. Storms Cap B subscription.. .unless you renew. If the box on the left is checked, your subscription has expired and you have received this issue as acourtesy. Miller Opens New Store in Gettys~ur CONTACT BY TELEGRAPH Women ~gMilit; ary Rolt e-mail: [email protected] web site URL: www.watchdogreview.com web site design by Leelanau Communications, Inc., Andrew MacFarlane, Pres. Expertly printed by John Chmelko of Eastown Printing Service, Centerline, Michigan Copyright O 2002 All rights reserved