A&F KIDS’ ON FIFTH AVENUE/2 TALBOTS’ CREDIT FALLOUT/2 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • April 18, 2008 • $2.00 Beauty Golden Child Meet Chanel’s new baby: its fall 2008 color collection, the fi rst under Chanel’s new creative director of makeup, Peter Philips. It will be out in July — followed by Philips’ holiday collection, slated for October, which will continue the gold rush. For more, see page 10.

The Big Chill: Weak Dollar Takes Toll on European Beauty Exports By Stephanie Epiro The severity of the problem would rise 5 percent in 2007, but in and Brid Costello was underscored here last week the last three months of the year, BOLOGNA, Italy — European beauty during the Cosmoprof trade fair, we had a dramatic decline,” said manufacturers are reeling when it was revealed that Italian Fabio Franchina, president of hair from the worsening euro-dollar beauty exports stalled to a meager care brand Framesi and Unipro, exchange rate imbalance, which is increase of only 1 percent in 2007. the Italian association of cosmetics squeezing exports. “We estimated last June exports See Europeans, Page 8 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY MEGAN MCINTYRE THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 18, 2008 WWD.COM Abercrombie Kids’ Heads to 5th Ave. By David Moin Madison Avenue fl agship, which will celebrate its 100th anniversary on Madison Avenue in WWDFRIDAY NEW YORK — The kids division of Abercrombie 2015,” he said. “We want to make sure that Beauty & Fitch Co., abercrombie, plans to move into the Madison Avenue is the real ambassador.” Fifth Avenue space Brooks Brothers is vacating. The company bought the 120,000-square-foot Sources close to the situation said Brooks building last year for that purpose. About half FASHION Bros. will exit 666 Fifth Avenue, on the south- the space is for selling and half for the compa- Inspired by New York’s galleries and architecture, Madewell features west corner of 53rd Street, around February ny’s headquarters. 6 sketch-print T-shirts, brushstroke-print dresses and gray denim. 2009, and abercrombie will build a prototype “Both stores are doing very well, but I am 22,000-square-foot fl agship to open in 2010. sure they’ve been cannibalizing each other,” GENERAL For Abercrombie & Fitch, the project refl ects Del Vecchio said. “We really want to refurbish European beauty manufacturers are reeling from the worsening euro- a strategy of placing fl agships at high-profi le the Madison Avenue store to represent the dollar exchange rate imbalance, which has put a damper on exports. venues in the U.S. and abroad. Abercrombie’s brand. We realized it was a better opportunity 1 Hollister division is launching a prototype at to invest there, and a better business oppor- The new sixth fl oor at Barneys is designed with a light, contemporary 600 Broadway in SoHo in the fi rst half of 2009. tunity than signing a new long-term lease” on 4 feel, with clothes displayed on fl oating bars and curved fi xtures. The two-and-half-year-old Abercrombie & Fitch Fifth Avenue. Giorgio Armani SpA on Thursday named Bruno Laguardia as ceo of its fl agship on Fifth Avenue and 56th Street gener- Del Vecchio stressed that Brooks Bros. wants U.S. subsidiary, replacing Bridget Ryan Berman, who left in September. ates in excess of $100 million in annual sales. to increase its presence in Manhattan, aim- 7 Brooks Bros.’ decision to create a second ing to open four or fi ve stores comparable to Global trade volume is projected to increase by its lowest rate in six Manhattan fl agship on Fifth Avenue about eight the 9,300-square-foot unit on Broadway at 65th 17 years in 2008, to 4.5 percent, 1 percent less than 2007, the WTO said. years ago raised eyebrows because of the prox- Street near Lincoln Center for the Performing Classifi ed Advertisements...... 18-19 imity of the 93-year-old Brooks Bros. store on Arts. Brooks Bros.’ fourth Manhattan store is at Madison Avenue and 44th Street. The Fifth One Liberty Plaza in lower Manhattan. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Avenue unit, essentially a big glass box, failed to The Fifth Avenue location is comprised of [email protected], using the individual’s name. capture the Brooks Bros. aura, which is personi- ground, second fl oor and lower-level space, fi ed by the dark-wood-paneled Madison Avenue with a double-height glass storefront and 28-foot WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. venue that oozes tradition. ceilings, according to the Cushman & Wakefi eld VOLUME 195, NO. 84. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with “The Fifth Avenue location has not been marketing brochure. The site also has 192 feet one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and representative of the brand,” said Claudio Del of frontage wrapping around the corner. November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided Vecchio, chairman and chief executive offi cer Also at 666 Fifth Avenue, additional space is by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, of Brooks Bros. “The other reason for leaving is being created to accommodate another retail Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/ I don’t believe in a two-fl agship strategy within tenant that has yet to be determined. Rents on Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: nine blocks of each. Fifth Avenue around 53rd Street are said to be return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: “We have full intention to rebuild the about $1,500 a square foot. SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Talbots’ Credit Crunch Raises Alarms Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Reeling from the meltdown of she said. “Their credit metrics 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, By Jeanine Poggi OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, the subprime mortgage markets, have been deteriorating for BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED and Evan Clark they are especially on edge. two years, ever since they ac- MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR “Banks, if they aren’t already, quired J. Jill.” CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY albots Inc.’s credit crisis are going to be closely combing Since that acquisition, dur- A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Tmight not be an isolated for trouble, hopefully ahead of ing the fi rst quarter of 2006, the event, as lenders grow more the actual alarm going off,” said specialty retailer has consis- nervous about the retail sector, William Detwiler, partner at tently missed its fi nancial plans experts said. Watch Hill Partners, an invest- and has been forced to lean on Shares of Talbots continued ment fi rm. “A lot of these guys vendors. Quote of the Week on a downward spiral Thursday, can’t afford any more problems But for the most part retail- falling 14.5 percent to $7.83. in their portfolio.” ers have been taking action to That followed a 28.7 percent Banks became even more shore up their operations in the “I’m an old man, but I don’t feel like an decline Wednesday after the nervous after J.C. Penney Co. face of the fi nancial turmoil. Hingham, Mass.-based retailer Inc. on March 28 made a sur- “Despite the challenging old man. I want to do something new, said Bank of America and HSBC prise cut in its earnings guid- conditions in the U.S. from a would pull lines of credit. The ance, which for many signaled a consumer demand perspec- I want to continue.” Dow Jones Industrial Average slowdown in retail. tive, we have seen a number of fi nished fractionally ahead on “Could this be the onset of a retailers recently adjust their — Pierre Cardin Thursday as the S&P Retail liquidity crunch for some of the business models in order to Index crept up 0.2 percent. retailers? Sure,” said Tiffany Co, come through this period,” said A Securities and Exchange a credit analyst at Fitch Ratings James Hogan, HSBC’s head Commission fi ling on Tuesday Co. “Were it to come from any- of trade and supply chain for revealed that Bank of America where it would probably come North America. In Brief canceled its $130 million letter of credit as of April 8. HSBC re- duced its letter of credit to $60 Could this be the onset of a liquidity ● NEW ROLE AT BURBERRY: Sarah Manley has been named million from $135 million and “ Burberry’s senior vice president of marketing and communica- will phase out fi nancing entirely crunch for some of the retailers? Sure. tions. Manley, who has worked for Burberry for more than seven by Aug. 8. ” years, most recently was senior vice president, global public re- “Retailers are already expe- — Tiffany Co, Fitch Ratings Co. lations and communications. Her new role follows the departure riencing a credit crunch from of Leslie Dance, who was senior vice president, global market- their banks,” said Jack Hendler, from specialty — specialty ap- For instance, some stores are ing. Manley’s appointment, effective immediately, will include president of Net Worth Solutions parel or specialty home. extending the period in which overseeing all commercial aspects of global marketing, adver- Inc., a fi nancial advisory fi rm. “The smaller operators in they pay suppliers and enhanc- tising, fashion and business public relations, along with the “There are a number of stores the specialty retail segment ing their inventory management company’s events and internal communication. She will report that are on credit watches and that are going through a turn- processes so they can keep less to chief executive officer Angela Ahrendts. credit holds to some degree.” around,” she said. “We could stock on hand, he said. With “It is a bigger-picture story,” see a liquidity crunch for fewer options, vendors also have ● HAMPSHIRE ASSET SALE: Hampshire Group said it has sold said Emanuel Weintraub, of the them, just because the credit been forced to work with their certain assets of its Shane Hunter subsidiary, including inven- consulting fi rm that bears his market is a little bit more vola- hard-press retail accounts. tory, trademarks and other assets, for $3.7 million to a buyer name. “Banks don’t trust each tile and terms are more strict “There’s a lot more pressure that includes a former member of Shane Hunter management. other and don’t want to lend to than they used to be.” on [suppliers] to take what they The transaction is subject to customary post-closing adjust- each other overnight. There is However, Kimberly Green- can get and stay in business, ments. Hampshire will retain the remaining assets of Shane so much fear and mistrust about berger, retail analyst at even at a loss, and hope they Hunter, including about $14 million in accounts receivable as every kind of paper out there.” Citigroup, said the majority of can run out the clock on the U.S. of Monday. The company said the funds from the sale will be While Talbots has been at- the multiunit specialty retail- economy, until it comes back used for operations and other general corporate purposes. tempting to turn around its ers she covers have at least up,” said Brenda Jacobs, a trade business under the stewardship $100 million in cash on their attorney with Sidley Austin. of Trudy Sullivan, who joined balance sheet, which makes “Everybody’s got to fi nd creative as chief executive offi cer last lending to them less risky for ways to deal with the slacking July after serving as president banks. She also does not be- demands and the increased Correction of Liz Claiborne Inc., Weintraub lieve Talbots is indicative of costs. Retailers are going to Peter Bacanovic was hired as a consultant for jeweler Fred noted that lenders want zero the entire retail sector. have to pick up some additional Leighton in December 2007 and was later named president. This risk exposure, which the com- “Talbots has the most lever- costs. They’re asking manufac- was incorrect in a story on page 2, Wednesday. pany cannot provide. age…of any company I cover,” turers to absorb some, too.” when the choice is yours, choose love. is a trademark of is a trademark of ™ ©2008 EA Fragrances Co. Hilary Duff Co. Hilary ©2008 EA Fragrances Rafter H Entertainment, Inc. and is used with permission. Rafter H Entertainment, Inc.

the newest fragrance 4 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 18, 2008 WWD.COM Sixth Floor Gets a New Look at Barneys

By Sharon Edelson Stop, in the name of — fashion. NEW YORK — With a focus on career suits and separates, shirts and outerwear, the sixth floor of Barneys New York’s Madison Avenue flag- ship stood out like a prairie dress at a Manhattan gallery opening. Almost every other fl oor had been remodeled in the store’s 15-year history so that merchandise and interior design refl ected the spirited, sophisticated aesthetic that is Barneys. Well, the sixth fl oor’s time has come. “We’re trying to make [the sixth fl oor] more Hugo sexy and elevate the brands,” said Philippe Dalton Wy Hum, vice president of store design at Barneys. “We’re trying to create a shop-in- shop feel. We want to have a more intimate environment for our vendors.” “We see the fifth and sixth floors as being very similar,” said Judy Collinson, women’s merchandise manager. “Both are a mix of young luxury, with some very new small and innovative designers and some more established designers, but all spirited and strong.” In the recent past, sixth fl oor resources included the Barneys New York Collection, Etro, Isabella Tonchi, Jane Wheeler, Jeffrey Chow, Paul Smith and Piazza Sempione, some of which have been relocated to other fl oors. “The redesigned fl oor features Stella McCartney, Erdum, Marc Jacobs, Marni and Miu Miu. Both fl oors fi ve and six will have a large group of our growing designer businesses such as The Row, Thakoon, ANTONOV PASHA PHOTOS BY Duro Olowu and Lutz & Patmos,” Collinson said. “We needed this fl oor to look like and be merchandised as a designer fl oor,” she said. “Our busi- ness continues to grow in this area. We want to present each designer very well and we want to con- tinue to do this with a very open, gallery-like approach. We needed the space.” Poles of wood cylinders Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens and Ann Demeulemeester reside on the fi fth fl oor. create discrete areas. The new sixth fl oor is designed to have a light, contemporary, free-fl owing feel. Clothing is dis- played on sets of fl oating bars and simple curved fi xtures. “They let the clothes speak for themselves,” Wy Hum said. Wood cylinders supported by thin metal rods frame merchandise groupings for a shop-in-shop ef- fect. In the center of the room, a 1,000-square-foot rectangular mosaic made from natural fi eldstone was dropped into the fl oor. The surrounding French oak was stripped and lightened with a white- wash and liming process. Norbert Kimmel’s installation made of twisted metal will protrude from the ceiling, pierce one of the columns and come out the other side. Dressing rooms are also getting attention. Rather than individual fi tting rooms scattered across the fl oor, there will be a more centralized fi tting area with a lounge vibe so customers can shop with their friends. British painter Hugo Dalton on Wednesday put the fi nal touches on his work on the sixth fl oor. His art, inspired by an orchid preserve on the Channel Islands, unfolded lyrically across the walls. “It’s really tucked away and very discreet,” he said of the preserve. “That resonated to me about Barneys. It’s kind of a discreet place and full of all these different species.” The sixth Discovered by Barneys’ creative director Simon Doonan, Dalton has had shows at the Fine Arts fl oor is Society and Institute of Contemporary Art in London. His work is collected by Kay Saatchi, Antony lighter and de Rothschild and Sam Parker Bowles. brighter. Dalton painted with aluminum so that clothes placed in front of the walls will shimmer. In the dressing rooms, the orchids climb up the walls and onto the ceiling. Carolina Herrera Sets Up Shop in Dallas Kors, Bulgari, Valentino DALLAS — Carolina Herrera has ing offi cer. “Historically, Dallas has with sofas and chairs upholstered Plan Atlanta Openings launched a store at Highland Park had a strong and loyal customer in a signature dark brown and Village here, the third step in a base for the collection.” cream silk stripe are focal points ATLANTA — Michael Kors, Bulgari and Valentino plan to measured retail rollout that began Next up is Las Vegas, where throughout. They are arranged open their first stores here this summer and fall. in 2000. Herrera is exploring locations, with lacquered tables of dark Michael Kors and Bulgari will be located at Lenox After the Madison Avenue fl ag- Sinel said. striped macassar wood, some of Square, and Valentino will be across the street at Phipps ship in Manhattan and a unit on In Dallas, Herrera’s other which hold display cases for fi ne Plaza. Both centers are owned by Simon Properties Melrose Place in West Hollywood, points of distribution are at the jewelry by Faraone Mennella. Group and are in the affl uent Buckhead neighborhood, “Dallas was the next step,” said Neiman Marcus flagship and at Natural light accentuates the 10 miles north of downtown. Jillian Hirsch Sinel, chief operat- Stanley Korshak, which has a residential ambience, especially in The 3,000-square-foot Michael Kors Lifestyle store, shop-in-shop. Owner Crawford the rear bridal salon, where a wall the 19th in the U.S., will launch by September. Brock wanted to expand the bou- of windows opens to a leafy street “Atlanta is a dynamic and vibrant retail environment,” tique until Herrera announced in Highland Park. said John Idol, chief executive offi cer of Michael Kors plans to open its own store. “It’s very homey, and we wanted USA Inc., who said the location is among 16 Lifestyle The 3,600-square-foot unit, to make the customer feel wel- store openings this year. which opened March 31, displays come,” Sinel said. The Michael Kors Lifestyle unit offers shoes, hand- the full ready-to-wear and bridal Prices start at $300 for sun- bags and accessories and a small selection of ready-to- collections in an environment that glasses and rise to $35,000 for a wear pieces. Only four Michael Kors Collection stores, resembles a modern sitting room. lavishly embroidered and hand- two in New York, as well as those in Costa Mesa, Calif., The furnishings mirror the beaded silk taffeta wedding gown. and Beverly Hills, offer the full apparel collection. decor in the New York and Los The store also carries shoes by The 2,100-square-foot Bulgari boutique is to open in Angeles boutiques. Seating areas Manolo Blahnik, day and eve- Lenox Square in August, offering fi ne jewelry and acces- ning clutches by Judith sories. Bulgari executives were unavailable for comment. Leiber and tote bags by The 2,100-square-foot Valentino unit, the ninth in the Nancy Gonzalez. U.S., will offer women’s apparel and accessories and Neighbors include is to launch in September. Valentino will open another Chanel, Harry Winston, Southern store in the Galleria Mall in Houston later in Hermès, Jimmy Choo, the fall. Polo Ralph Lauren and Tisha Maley, assistant vice president of leasing for Scoop, among others. Simon Properties Group, said luxury tenants, especially To help promote the European brands, are in growth modes, despite a chal- store, the designer plans to lenging economic environment. attend an April 24 cocktail “I’ve seen no holding back or concerns about business party for about 300 people from luxury retailers,” she said. “They are focused on Exterior and interior views of that will spill into a tent in long-term market strategies and, with the dollar low, they Carolina Herrera’s Dallas store. front of the boutique. see now as a good time to grow.”

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Looks from Madewell.

“HIP, AFFORDABLE AND creative.” That’s the concept behind Madewell, according to Millard “Mickey” Drexler, chairman and chief executive offi cer of J. Crew Group, which owns the less expensive line. Bubbling with Design excitement as he walked through the fall presentation, Drexler described the line as “a blank canvas painted with cool merchandise and accessories.” Inspired by New York City’s galleries and architecture, the collection had plenty of sketch-print Ts that could have been replicated from a young artist’s notebook, brushstroke-print dresses and gray denim that represents the concrete found Lab throughout the city. ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 18, 2008 7 WWD.COM

Nina Ricci in Fashion Scoops Paris. Giorgio Armani

NIC AND CLICK: Nicolas Ghesquière is the latest fashion designer Taps U.S. Chief reaching out to cyber shoppers. Balenciaga plans to open its fi rst e-commerce site on U.S. territory on May 15, proposing By Andrew Roberts bags, shoes, sunglasses, scarves and jewelry. “It is an extension and adaptation of the existing balenciaga.com site,” said MILAN — Giorgio Armani SpA on Thursday a Balenciaga spokesman of the imminent online boutique, named Bruno Laguardia as chief executive of- designed by Baron & Baron Inc. in collaboration with Avenue A. ficer of its U.S. subsidiary, replacing Bridget Ryan Berman, who left in September. HE’S BAAAACK: Leave it to The Terminator to silence the Four Laguardia, 61, most recently spearhead- Season’s Grill Room Thursday. The lunch crowd seemed to draw ed the creation and organization of Trimil a collective pause, when California SpA, a joint venture set up by Armani and Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger Ermenegildo Zegna SpA in 2000, to over- paraded past with New York Mayor see manufacturing and distribution of the Michael Bloomberg in tow. Before Armani Collezioni men’s wear line. He began ducking into a private room for his career at Bassetti Group, an international a mano-a-mano talk, the mayor was shuttered last week for extensive construction manufacturer and distributor of home textile stopped to greet a few fans and work, including the alteration of its central staircase, products, and also has worked in executive even posed for a photo or two. to make way for a new design concept by Ricci’s roles at Zegna. The sighting may not have artistic director, Olivier Theyskens. Laguardia “is an accomplished profes- quelled any speculation about The boutique is slated to reopen this summer sional with a broad range of experience in the some sort of political dream with a decor melding elements of a typical Parisian areas of manufacturing, wholesale and retail ticket, but their appearance was apartment with the mood of Venice in wintertime. operations,” said Giorgio Armani, president due to something more concrete Elements include gray marble fl oors, moldings in- and ceo of his namesake fashion company. than that. They unveiled the third spired by the 19th century, walls covered with jac- “He is a leader with great collaborative skills annual New York City card, a quard fabric and futuristic furniture. and a proven track record in developing and credit card-size guide highlighting issue-related talking points Having applied his ethereal and romantic approach to Ricci’s motivating organizations and building strong for Gotham’s heavyweight political donors. Afterward, Charlie fashion collections for the past three seasons, Theyskens is now client relationships. Through his previous Rose peppered them with questions, while Donna Karan, Diane extending his aesthetic to the retail fl oor and, later this year, to a connection with the Armani Group, we can von Furstenberg, Herbert Allen, Donald Marron, George Walker and complete accessories collection. be sure that he will quickly make an impact other bigwigs listened in and dined on poached wild striped bass. on the growth and prosperity of our North Homeland security, affordable housing, climate change and TRUE BRIT: “It’s got to be English — we’re not going to give it American business.” other weighty topics surprisingly managed to grab guests by an American twist,” said Sir Philip Green, discussing the launch The new U.S. ceo will be charged with driv- the gullet at the alcohol-free luncheon. Karan, never a shy one of Topshop’s fi rst New York store, during a viewing of Topshop’s ing revenue growth in the nation, which slowed when it comes to seeking inspiration, left with more food for fall collections at London’s Royal Academy. Indeed, Green is so to 7 percent in 2007 from 10 percent in 2006. thought. “I was so inspired. We all have to appreciate the people keen on giving a London edge to the brand’s fi rst U.S. unit that Last year, the U.S. accounted for about 24 per- in the city who do make things happen and contribute in some he’s fl ying some of Topshop’s English staff to New York to run the cent of Giorgio Armani’s wholesale revenues. way,” she said. “Everybody is always pointing fi ngers rather store in its fi rst weeks, and is even toying with the idea of setting “America is Giorgio Armani’s most impor- than making a difference and taking responsibility. It really is a a fl eet of red double-decker buses on the streets of New York to tant market,” Laguardia told WWD. “In fact, message of choice. In times like these, people need to prioritize.” celebrate the store’s launch in October. it’s the biggest. I am extremely pleased that Bloomberg advised attendees not to draw party lines, Green added that he was looking at opening “a couple more Mr. Armani asked me to come here.” downplaying the adversarial nature of Democrats versus stores” in Manhattan, alongside the brand’s U.S. fl agship at 478 Laguardia, who was speaking from New Republicans. Broadway in SoHo, but said that fi nding the right location was an York, said he was “a little worried” about the But the Republican governor could not let that one rest, issue. “We don’t want to be on every street corner,” he said. slowdown in consumer spending in the U.S., telling the crowd that no one can relate to that more than he can. but that international travelers would com- He wakes up next to a Democrat each morning, he said, referring STELLA’S NEW SUNGLASSES: Luxottica Group SpA has signed pensate for the fall in local traffi c. to his wife, the long-standing Kennedy Democrat Maria Shriver. an agreement with Stella McCartney to design, produce and “I haven’t been here in New York long, but As for what was said once Bloomberg and Schwarzenegger distribute Stella McCartney sunglasses worldwide. The agreement you can hear on the street that there are many were behind closed doors is anyone’s guess. The Four Seasons’ begins in January 2009, and the fi rst collection under the Europeans and Italians,” he said, adding that Julian Niccolini said, “Most people with a brain would vote for agreement will launch in summer of that year. The company sales at directly operated Armani stores were them. They really make too much sense.” said McCartney “will personally follow each step of the creative “slightly up” for the quarter compared with process, together with the Luxottica design and product team.” last year. RIGHT AND LEFT: It looks like Ralph Lauren will not be joining The license agreement will last for an initial term of six years and Laguardia said he was more concerned the stampede to Palais Royal, which is becoming a hot Paris is then automatically renewable for an additional fi ve-year term. about the department stores and how they destination for designer shopping. The American designer was to “This new agreement is geared toward strengthening further were balancing their fi nancial and commer- open an outpost in the chic square, home to boutiques by Marc the presence of Stella McCartney eyewear in the market and cial needs. Jacobs, Rick Owens, Acne and, coming soon, Stella McCartney. aims to further increase the international development of the “Very often, they make sales decisions, Word has it Lauren now plans to focus energies on his two other brand,” said Marco Bizzarri, chief executive of Stella McCartney. which we are able to manage in a different major boutiques in the works for the French capital: one on tony McCartney fi rst produced an eyewear range with Safi lo in 2003, way in our own boutiques,” Laguardia said. Avenue Montaigne and another on Boulevard Saint-Germain on an agreement that expires at the end of 2008. Laguardia said his challenge in the next the Left Bank. few years would be to implement and ex- FAMILY STYLE: Apparently, there really is such a ecute Armani’s “new programs,” citing VINTAGE AUCTION: Hubert de thing as an amicable Hollywood divorce. Ellen Armani Jeans, Emporio Armani and acces- Givenchy and some of the Audrey Hepburn Barkin and Gabrielle Byrne offi cially split nine sories, “which are not yet fully known to the world’s top designers have in Givenchy’s years ago, but they were yukking it up with their American market.” donated items from their private black dress in children, Romy and Jack, Wednesday night. The He added that his knowledge of Armani’s collections to a vintage auction “Breakfast at foursome were all smiles over a leisurely dinner nonretail operations, particularly in Italy, would in Florence on Saturday in aid of Tiffany’s.” at Keith McNally’s Morandi, sharing a few laughs facilitate relations at Giorgio Armani Corp. children suffering from leprosy and spoonfuls. “We have two worlds at Giorgio Armani, in Calcutta. De Givenchy, who the maison and [the commercial arm]. We donated that black dress worn by SASSOON THE HERO: Vidal Sassoon is known as have had problems getting them to commu- Audrey Hepburn in “Breakfast at a radical in the history of hair care, but now it nicate in the past, for which reason my chal- Tiffany’s” at the last Asta Vintage seems his fi ghting spirit extended to antifascist lenge will be to try to get them to do so bet- di Benefi cenza in 2006, will also politics. This week, the British hairdresser’s early ter,” Laguardia said. attend the event and chair the jury years as a foot-soldier in a London antifascist He also will oversee the expansion of for a competition between fashion movement, the 43 Group, founded in 1946 by Armani’s retail network in North America, students from around the world. Jewish ex-servicemen, will be revealed as part most notably the new multibrand fl agship Roberto Cavalli, Giorgio Armani, of a BBC Radio 4 documentary, “Archive House: on Fifth Avenue, which is slated to open in Gianfranco Ferré, Alberta Ferretti, A Rage in Dalston.” The program, to air on February. The Giorgio Armani Corp. oper- Antonio Marras, Emilio Pucci and Saturday, describes the teenage Sassoon’s battles ates 32 directly owned stores and two Armani Sonia Rykiel have also donated against Sir Oswald Mosley, leader of the British cafes in the U.S. items to the event in aid of the Union of Fascists, in East London after World “There are few places in the world that Dominique Lapierre Foundation. War II. Sassoon, now 80, grew up in London’s bring together prestige and traffi c, and Fifth Some of the items under the East End and his day job at the time was trainee Avenue is the maximum from this point of hammer include the Bluemarine barber at a London salon. He describes going to view,” Laguardia said. “It gives us the op- dress worn by Jennifer Lopez at work one morning after breaking up a pro-Mosley portunity to present the group’s entire offer the 2000 London premiere of her PETERS COLLECTION OF PARAMOUNT/NEAL PHOTO COURTESY meeting: “I’ll never forget. I walked in and I under one roof and to show what we are able fi lm “The Cell,” Enrico Coveri’s had a hell of a bruise. It had been a diffi cult to do from A to Z.” 1985 paillette dress and the Belstaff jacket worn by Leonardo night, and a client said to me, ‘Good God, Vidal, what happened In 2007, Armani registered a 17 percent di Caprio in the fi lm “The Aviator.” In total, 5,000 items have to your face?’ and I said, ‘Oh nothing, madam, I slipped on a increase in operating profi ts to 289 million been donated, a selection of which will be auctioned, while the hairpin.’” He added of his fellow 43 Group members: “I was 17, euros, or $396.1 million at average exchange, remainder will be put on sale via a special show. The three-day these were all ex-servicemen at least fi ve or six years older than driven by sales increases across all brands, show opens today. me, and many of them won medals. I was a private.” The 43 product categories and geographic areas. Group fought against Mosley and his cronies, breaking up their Consolidated revenues for the 12 months RICCI REDO: The Nina Ricci fl agship in Paris is getting a top-to- meetings with knives and razor blades, until 1950 when the through Dec. 31 rose 8 percent to 1.6 billion toe makeover. The landmark boutique at 33 Avenue Montaigne group disbanded. euros, or $2.19 billion. 8 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 18, 2008 The Beauty Report WWD.COM Europeans at Cosmoprof Feel Dollar’s Pain Continued from page one the U.S. to offset the exchange in balance. “If we go were pharmacies, with 8.5 percent growth; perfumer- companies. “Most of the exporters are facing a major above the limit, we lose volume,” he said, referring to ies, up 3.3 percent; beauty salons, up 2.1 percent, and problem with the dollar situation.” his prices compared with American manufacturers. hairdressers, with a 1 percent increase. On the other The stifl ing strength of the euro against the dollar “But we have to protect margin.” hand, direct sales dropped 2.1 percent. was at the heart of other vexing concerns at the fair, Franchina at Unipro sees the industry as having to The weakness of the Italian economy and the dollar, which was held from April 10 to 14. The issue is not choose between two possible courses of action: Either while not necessarily connected, were two topics on the impacting just sales to the American market, it’s also elevate their marketing under a “Made in Italy” banner minds of most manufacturers. affecting currencies that are related to the dollar in to create a more sophisticated and competitive posi- “The dollar at this level is very worrying,” said South America, the Middle East and the Far East. That tioning for products, just as local producers did in the Giovanni Sgariboldi, president of Euroitalia, one of the issue is compounded by the fact that the Italian indus- fashion, auto and design industries, or challenge the country’s beauty manufacturing heavyweights, adding try lacks heft, considering that 85 percent of companies major players like L’Oréal head-on. that 75 percent of his business is export. “It’s becoming are classifi ed by Unipro as small or medium-size con- Franchina’s preference was obvious. a risk for profi ts.” cerns. Franchina noted the dollar and euro were at par- “If we can be a leader in a [higher] niche, we can Mario Usellini, vice president and chief executive offi cer ity in January 2003, but that the euro has now soared to survive,” he said, adding that to fi ght “on a larger level” of fashion and fragrance house Luciano Soprani, concurred. a value of $1.59, as of Thursday afternoon. is a nonstarter. The task is daunting, given that the size “We’re having a lot of problems with the euro and dollar,” he “The dollar is killing us,” said Eric Henry, chief op- of the entire Italian beauty industry stood at 8.26 billion said. “Our prices have risen by 40 percent. We continue to erating offi cer of Beauté Prestige International, the euros, or $11.3 billion, for 2007, a fraction of L’Oréal’s work, but we’re losing money in different countries.” French subsidiary of Tokyo-based Shiseido. He noted turnover alone of 17.06 billion euros, or $23.38 billion. Agreed Steven Schapera, ceo and managing direc- that the problem not only affects the U.S., but in other Earlier during a presentation, Franchina outlined tor of Australian makeup artist brand Becca, who was markets in Asia, Latin America and the Middle East, the Italian beauty industry’s retail performance in the at the fair scouting for packaging for a lipstick launch whose economies are linked to the dollar. domestic market for 2007, which chalked up sales of slated for September, “It’s not a good incentive to drive Henry emphasized that European producers are 5.96 billion euros, or $8.16 billion, an increase of 2.3 a lot of business in the U.S.” running out of elasticity in terms of raising prices in percent year-over-year. The channels that moved ahead — With contributions from Pete Born Retail Headliners Light Up the Fair BOLOGNA, Italy — The Cosmoprof trade fair got setter, people will come.” said the fragrance arm of fashion brand Etro an unaccustomed lift with a strong influx of mar- To jump-start that new positioning, was a standout at the show, which she was vis- quee-name international retailers, ranging from Cosmoprof focused on offering a more fashion- iting to pinpoint a range of different brands. executives at Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and trend-oriented edge. She also noted that the chain plans to initiate Harvey Nichols in London, Tsum in Moscow, “Like a laboratory,” said De Sanctis, adding a new buying strategy, which will see Harvey Mecca Cosmetica in Australia, La Rinascente in that the show’s raison d’être also is to offer retail- Nichols editing more precisely the products Milan and Le Bon Marché in Paris. Many attend- ers and manufacturers an opportunity to meet it carries within brand portfolios. “Our fash- ed the five-day exposition for the first time. and speak face-to-face “on a human level.” ion ranges are very targeted,” she said. “[Our This was all part of a fresh start given to the In another step toward dispelling the per- beauty offer] has to follow through.” 41-year-old fair by its new chief executive offi - ception that Cosmoprof is an Italian-oriented Buyers pointed out that the show is an op- cer of Sogecos, Aureliana De Sanctis, who took affair, De Sanctis aims to convince “the mother portunity for face-to-face encounters with on the role in January 2007 and began an over- house” of the brands — the home headquarters people who are often dealt with over the haul of the Cosmoprof concept in November. — to be present at the show, rather than leaving phone or via e-mail. “There’s a new and positive energy at the it up to their local offi ces. “It’s a very useful way to see a lot of peo- fair,” she said, adding that fi rst-day visitor New additions to the show this year in- ple fast,” said Angela Creasy, general manag- numbers were up 53 percent year-on-year. “We cluded offbeat events such as Elastique Spa, a er of cosmetics at Liberty in London. were a trendsetter once and we want to become showcase for innovation in treatment and spa Jo Horgan, founder of Mecca in Australia, a trendsetter again.” products, and Hats for Voyeurs, an exhibition of agreed that the event was an effi cient way to De Sanctis said she wants to make the fair hats designed by milliner Stephen Jones styled connect with a lot of people. “It’s like speed a showcase for innovation and newness, and by Anna Piaggi. dating and buying,” she said. compete with the Tax Free World Association’s “It’s easier to see a trend emerge,” said “It’s the best way to do it,” said Christine show in Cannes as a place for manufacturers to Pat Saxby, general merchandise manager at Benson, cosmetics buyer at Selfridges in preview new products. Bergdorf Goodman. London, who attended with fragrances buyer “Twenty years ago, everyone was showing Ed Burstell, vice president of cosmetics at Nicola Tompkins. Aureliana De Sanctis newness here,” she said. “If we become a trend- Bergdorf ’s, said he’d found 10 new resourc- Brett Riddington, general manager of cos- es and “we’ll probably do metics for David Jones in Sydney, zeroed in something with three or four on two main areas: high-performance scien- of them.” tifi c skin care and fragrance with the desire Claudia Lucas, vice presi- to build an artisanal perfumery business. dent of cosmetics at Henri While the array of buyers injected energy Bendel in New York, said, “I and prestige, the show’s new focus is only a wanted to see Italian brands. fi rst step in its overhaul. I noticed a lot coming out of “It’s an interesting event,” said Debbie Tuscany. I started to think Beaumont-Howell, beauty buyer at the British- if we did Tuscan beauty for based House of Fraser, adding that the show’s the American market, they layout and offer could benefi t from tweaking. would totally get into it.” “It’s quite a challenging to have to put all of Tracy Van Heusden, a those beauty houses under one roof.” Brett Riddington of buyer at Harvey Nichols, — Stephanie Epiro and Brid Costello David Jones.

Henri Bendel’s Pat Saxby, left, and Ed Burstell, Claudia Lucas and Jo Horgan and Peter Tracy Van Heusden right, of Bergdorf Goodman, with House of Fraser’s Debbie Wetenhall from Mecca Nicky Kinnaird of Space NK. of Harvey Nichols. Cosmetica. Beaumont-Howell. WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 18, 2008 9

WWD.COM Pavilions in Bloom With Natural Brands BOLOGNA, Italy — “Natural” was the word echoed through the cavernous pavilions marketer Amazonia Viva showcased fi ve fragrances made with essential oils from the of Cosmoprof. Indigenous ingredients from Italy, Greece, Brazil and Switzerland Amazon basin, including cupuassu. Self Universe, a professional hair care brand, un- often combined with high-performance molecular formulas were big attractions, veiled a chemical-free straightening treatment called Polaris. Playing on its heritage, while a quirky approach to beauty added spice. Brazilian Fruit offered treatment products and lip glosses based on the ingredients Rodial’s bust-boosting cream, fi ttingly called Boob Job with larger-than-life wall used to make a caipirinha cocktail. murals to match, and Yes to ● Based on spring water from the Chianciano Carrots, another small start-up Terme spa in Tuscany, Italy, Eudermic played firm, pushed the envelope on the natural at the show with its Angel’s Spa and natural formulations. Mediterranean Spa lines. It also previewed Zero Among the highlights: Impact, a six-unit bath and body line destined for ● Bakel, a Udine, Italy-based gift stores. The chemical-free and environmental- treatment company showed its ly friendly products are packaged in biodegrad- six-unit line of target serums, able corn-based plastic and come with reusable each formulated with 100 per- aluminum travel and display fl acons. The compa- cent active ingredients. Products ny generates annual turnover of 10 million euros, include hyaluronic acid, meant or $13.7 million. to improve skin tone and fi rm the ● Padua, Italy-based Nature’s, which launched skin, and Q10-B5, which includes a Chianti grape-based treatment line two years the Q10 coenzyme said to slow ago, aimed to inject a lighter note at the show down skin aging. Prices range with Cedro, a range of mood-enhancing fragrance from 85 euros to 148 euros, or and treatment items containing a fruit indigenous $134 to $233 at current exchange, to Southern Italy. It also presented Arga, an argon for 30-ml. pump bottles. oil-based line, and a collection of products based ● Using plants sourced in the on malachite, which is prized for its copper con- Swiss Alps and water from the tent and is said to function as a good antioxidant. Dar glacier, Alpure comprises ● Holland-based Greenland, which shows a four lines of antiaging and mois- new bath and body line every year, this season fo- turizing creams targeting various cused on Bio-liogic, a collection made up of fruit age groups. Sold at Selfridges and and plant-based formulas. Rodolfo Mostardi of Eudermic and Biochemist Henri Bendel, Otto Jochems, the ● The Think Happy Company, which runs Eric Chen from Markwins. Mark Lowenthal of European Soaps. Raffaella Gregoris brand’s managing director, said and her Bakel line. British bath and body brand Organic Surge, un- Alpure is positioned veiled Wild Organics, between Clarins and a 12-stockkeeping Nancy Lancôme. unit premium body Northrop ● Parma, Italy- care line. Despite and Loris based Organic being in business Rubino Elements showcased for only two years, from its reformulated and the company has Rubino repackaged 36-unit launched its own Cosmetics. line of face and body charity. With the products. Combining profits from a soap certifi ed organic in- line, it is support- gredients with high- ing 80 people living tech formulations, in a Kenyan village. the line is positioned According to indus- in the lower end of try sources, Think prestige. In 2007, the Happy’s sales could brand generated sales hit 42 million pounds, of less than 2 million or $66 million, within euros, or $2.74 mil- fi ve years. lion, according to in- ● For those who dustry sources. think the industry ● Fresh from Morgane Le Fay takes itself too seri- opening a store in fragrances. Brazilian Fruit’s Caipirinha line. ously, there is Yes to Paris a month ago, Carrots. The head George Korres, founder of of the company Ido Korres Natural Products, is Leffler, who identi- poised to open another door fi es himself as “car- in Brooklyn, and is laying rot lover,” has built plans to open four more doors his Tel Aviv-based in China, bringing the count brand into a 16-prod- there to 10 before the start of uct skin and body the Olympics. He also has an care line, containing eye on a location in Tel Aviv Maria Hatzistefanis of Rodial. organic fruits and in September. By the end of vegetables plus min- this year, he expects to have erals from the Dead Sea. He plans to open 16 concept stores in close to 40 freestanding stores Thailand by the end of the year. The name of the brand refers globally. The Greek company to beta-carotene, an antioxidant derived from carrots. Industry was exhibiting a new men’s sources project the brand could be doing $40 million to $50 mil- line and talking about starting lion by 2009. new raw material production ● In a fi ttingly minimalist booth, Eric Chen, chief executive facilities to extract organic offi cer of Markwins, showcased CK Calvin Klein Beauty’s 210-sku herbal ingredients. Korres makeup line. After launching with color cosmetics last year, said he closed 2007 with a Markwins will bulk up the designer brand with a natural treat- turnover of 36 million euros, ment line starting in spring 2009. “[The environment] is one of $49.34 million, and projected the biggest issues facing the world today,” Chen said. COSMOPROF PHOTOS BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DAVIDE COSMOPROF PHOTOS BY ● the fi rm will generate sales ▼ A Cosmoprof newbie, Rodial, the London-based prestige of 49 million euros, or $67.16 Elisa Tassara, product treatment brand, pushed Boob Job, its cleavage-enhancing bust cream. “We have se- million, this year. manager for Organic rious formulas, but we don’t take ourselves too seriously,” said Maria Hatzistefanis, ● Apivita Natural Elements. the company’s founder. Products, the pioneering Athens-based homeopathic personal care brand based ● Adding sparkle to the trade show fl oor, Milan-based Rubino showed its uberex- on herbal ingredients and bee culture founded in 1972, was showing off its new pensive treatment creams made with pulverized rubies and a peptide complex. One skin care range called Queen Bee. The six-unit line features a formula consisting startling aspect is the price — a 1.7-oz. jar, which is decorated with a ruby, retails for of royal jelly encapsulated in liposomes for a high-tech treatment aimed at women $950. The brand also unveiled Providence, its fi rst fragrance. over 50. A serum retails for 70 euros, or $110. This is in addition to the brand’s ● Italian niche fragrance distributor Celso Fadelli turned his hand to manufac- other face range, aimed at women over 30. Lambros Papadimitriou, the new inter- turing, signing a deal with high-end women’s fashion line Morgane Le Fay. Fadelli national director, indicated that there is room for a third line to fi ll the age gap. showed four perfumes, each sold in handblown glass beakers. Priced at 180 euros, or Meanwhile, the entire brand has been repackaged, the company has begun gain- $283, for 100 mls. and outfi tted in a handmade box, the scents will be sold in Morgane ing Ecocert organic certifi cation for its products and making plans to enter China. Le Fay’s boutiques and in specialty stores. Papadimitriou said since Apivita’s original positioning is the industry’s hot trend, ● Taking an encore at the fair was Luciano Soprani, which controls the license “now it is time for Apivita to prove itself on the international market, keying in on for ballerina Carla Fracci. The company plans to launch a new fragrance dubbed the U.S. and the U.K.” Odette in September. ● Brazilian brands, a regular fi xture at Cosmoprof, were out in force. Prestige — S.E. and B.C. 10 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 18, 2008 The Beauty Report Chanel Hoping for Fall Gold Rush hanel is betting on striking gold with its fall 2008 color cosmetics collection, the ing to come up with makeup, I would be tapped out in a year and a half.” Cfirst created by Peter Philips, the house’s new creative director of makeup. “Peter’s exceptional creativity and imagination have won him global recognition Philips, who replaced Dominique Moncourtois and Heidi Morawetz in January, amongst fashion icons and acclaimed photographers alike,” said Maureen Chiquet, is using gold as a major theme for his fi rst collection. “This line is my fi rst little global chief executive offi cer of Chanel. “His modern approach, style and vision are step into Chanel,” said Philips, who spent a year and a half working closely with essential to capturing the essence of Chanel.” Moncourtois and Morawetz to ensure a smooth transition. “It sounds very cliché, Christine Dagousset, executive vice president of Fragrance and Beauté for but it was the apartment on the Rue Cambon where Coco worked and lived that re- Chanel, expects that outside work to “continually inspire Peter, which will in the end ally inspired this fi rst collection. The apartment is so cozy, with lots of warm brown, benefi t Chanel. We are less concerned about market research and more concerned bronzes and golds; an elegant gold-framed mirror, and a rough crystal chandelier. with giving our creators the freedom to come up with things that speak to them.” They all ended up in this collection That said, Dagousset believes in some way — whether it is a refl ec- that Gold Fiction will follow in tive surface, or a color.” The fall visual features the footsteps of Vamp, Black Satin The collection, due on counter in Natalia Vodianova. and other best-selling Chanel nail July, includes Gold Fiction, a softly polishes. “I think it will be huge,” shimmering nail polish, $30; Facettes said Dagousset. “It’s a soft honey D’Or, a fi nely milled gold loose pow- gold, not a sparkling bright gold. It’s der that reads on the skin as a subtle very wearable and very modern.” glow, $56; Gold Light Glossimer lip Another gold-hued nail shade ex- gloss, $26; Rouge Hydrabase lipstick pected to do well is Kaléidoscope, a shades in copper, plum and coral, shiny green gold, she said. each $27, and a quad eye shadow As well, Chanel will reprise palette with gold, coffee, ivory and — and amplify — gold in its holi- dark green eye colors, $56. day color collection, due out in Chanel marketers are hyping the October, with Poudre Precieuse gold nail polish as the next Vamp or Or, a gold highlighting powder Black Satin — but Philips, for one, is that will retail for $75; Gold Shine, philosophical. “I don’t like to dictate a gold Glossimer lip shade, $26; looks,” he said. “When Dominique Noir Scintillant, a black eyeliner and Heidi wanted to do black, they with gold sparkle, $28, and Haute did black. When they wanted to do Chocolate, a gold brown nail blue, they did blue. I wanted to do shade, $20. gold. Sometimes you can come up “Our nail polish is very fashion- with something insane and over-the- forward and an easy way for the top, but it has to attract women, as customer to get a piece of Chanel,” well. If you proposed black nail pol- said Dagousset. “We tend to do the ish to a marketing-driven company, very best with very dark shades they wouldn’t have done it. But they such as Vamp and Black Satin, and follow the trends, not start them.” very light shades.” Philips, a longtime editorial Dagousset said that Chanel has makeup artist, got into the field more than a 50 percent share of the “spontaneously.” department store nail color busi- “I was a very slow student and I liked drawing things,” said Philips with a laugh. ness. According to The NPD Group, annual 2007 prestige nail sales in U.S. depart- “I was a graphic designer before the computer age for advertising. I then went to the ment stores were $12 million. Antwerp Fashion Academy [he graduated in 1993] and learned that I wasn’t going to While Chanel’s nail polishes generally retail in the $20 range, Gold Fiction will be an amazing designer.” retail for $30. “We’ve used high-end pigments to get the color and fi nish just right, It did lead him to his present fi eld, however. “During my schooling, there was and the outer bottle is also done in an [opaque] gold case,” said Dagousset, adding always a bus that went from Antwerp to Paris to help the Belgian designers during that she doesn’t expect price resistance. Paris Fashion Week,” said Philips. “I saw the makeup artists backstage, and thought, Gold Fiction, like the rest of the fi rst color collection, is planned as a limited edi- ‘Bloody hell, that looks like fun.’ So I jumped into makeup. My good fortune was that tion, as were Vamp and Black Satin in past days. However, if Gold Fiction proves to be a I knew photographers and stylists. After two to three years, I ended up working with sales winner, Chanel will consider permanently adding it to the line, said Dagousset. all of these [Belgian] designers who were doing their fi rst shows, such as Olivier The counter visual, shot by Dominique Isserman, features Natalia Vodianova. It Theyskens. They got attention, I got attention — it grew very organically.” may be used as a print ad at a later date, said Dagousset. He will continue to juggle his duties at Chanel with editorial shoots. “Karl While executives refused to discuss sales projections, industry sources estimated [Lagerfeld] is a photographer in addition to being a designer, and both inspire him,” that Chanel’s fall color collection could do upward of $10 million at retail in the U.S. said Philips. “That’s what editorials do for me. If I would be full-time in an offi ce try- — Julie Naughton

“Our whole philosophy is not to have a whole bunch of different things that people don’t know what do with LaLicious Rids Products of Sulfates, Parabens it,” she said. “It’s always better to have a couple of good ones that do lots of things.” By Kavita Daswani “Before, it was more neon, more girly. We wanted to She has tried to absorb as much as possible the cost step away from that young girl look and target a broad- of reformulating the line, although she conceded that LOS ANGELES — Now that “paraben-free” seems to er range of people who could buy the products.” She the products will end up being about a dollar more on be an unofficial criteria for quality beauty brands, Los added that she hoped to include department stores to the fl oor. (Prices now range at retail from $18 to $32.) Angeles-based label LaLicious is poised to relaunch its her current accounts, which include Planet Blue in Kernochan anticipates a year of signifi cant growth entire line, with all the parabens and sulfates taken out. Malibu, Calif., and facelogic in Orlando, Fla. going forward; she is moving into a warehouse space four “It’s a strong keyword in the industry,” said founder and She is currently developing a couple of new products, times as large as the one her company now occupies, re- owner Jessica Kernochan. “Buyers don’t seem to want to including a lip scrub — an exfoliating product that can cently opened accounts in Canada and has also started carry products that have sulfates and parabens, so for us it be carried around and used anywhere — as well as a shipping to England, Switzerland, Mexico and Nicaragua. just became a matter of giving people what they wanted.” shimmering dry oil or body fragrance. She expects those “We’re hoping for a 500 percent increase in volume The fi ve-year-old line, which is currently carried in to be launched by early next year. next year,” she says. “We’re hoping for a big year.” about 400 beauty stores, boutiques and salons nation- wide, just started shipping in its new incarnation — which also includes all new packaging — last week. Kernochan is also taking advantage of the momentum generated by the relaunch to put out LaLicious’ some additional items early next year. new items. For now, however, LaLicious comprises 28 stockkeeping units — essentially four products in seven different fragrances. The core products are a Sugar Souffl e Scrub, Body Butter and Body Oil, with the Body Wash being replaced by a Whipped Body Soap. Scents include Coconut Cream, Island Guava, Passionfruit Lime and Lily Mango, as well as the brand’s latest, Tahitian Flower. The collection is categorized by fragrance, with each one given a different color pack- aging; reddish ruby for the guava, a pearly beige for Coconut Cream. Kernochan said that even the colors on the labels marked a major shift for the company. “They’re more muted now,” she said. WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 18, 2008 11

WWD.COM Jane Be Pure Comes Out Swinging

NEW YORK — The first question merchants often ask beauty companies is if they’ll to food, drugstore and mass market re- be able to support television advertising. tailers’ beauty aisles who have never Now, Lisa Yarnell, chief executive offi cer of Jane & Company, can give an affi rma- shopped there before for cosmetics.” tive answer to that question. Her company is launching a 30-second spot on cable The mass market is currently being networks geared to hit 16 million women ages 19 to 34. She hopes the TV campaign bombarded with mineral makeup op- — dovetailed with print advertising — will help Jane stand out in a crowded tions from almost every major brand. beauty market. Target is even stocking and advertising The idea behind the spot plays off the name Jane, as in Tarzan and Jane. A selection of Jane Be Pure the brand that kicked off the craze, Bare Escentuals. Jane, played by fresh-faced Cody Horn, readies with Jane Be Pure mineral mineral makeup products. Jane was one of the first to the mass market, and makeup and gets a text message, presumably from Tarzan, and swings is the number-one selling value brand, according to through the trees for her rendezvous. The tag line is market data. “Jane Be Pure mineral makeup. It’s my Jane-eration.” Yarnell thought it was time to build greater awareness via According to Yarnell, the concept was devised commercials. Also, many younger women who currently are after extensive market research to capture the Jane Jane users have not been as quick as others to embrace the target audience’s unique personality. The ad was mineral concept, so the commercial helps introduce the idea created by Laspata/DeCaro of New York. of mineral formulations to hip shoppers. “This ad appeals to a “We chose to communicate an empowering broad spectrum of women who embrace their individuality. message that defi nes the DNA of the Jane con- Savvy women from all walks of life, ethnicities, age groups sumer — a woman who is in control, environ- and mind-sets who embrace the idea of a new Jane- mentally aware, knows what she wants and goes eration of cosmetics that are healthy for you as well as after it,” she said. bringing out natural beauty,” said Yarnell. Yarnell added that the advertisement is also de- Although major companies such as Revlon and L’Oréal signed to attract new users to the brand and the ex- pump promotional dollars into TV, the spot is gutsy for a istence of the mineral category in drugstores and mass company the size of Jane. But with shelf space at a premi- market doors. “With this ad campaign, our goal is to intro- um, the TV penetration could just net Jane more real es- duce new consumers to Jane Be Pure mineral and bring women tate in the booming mineral market.

SOHO NIGHT: The Soho House in Manhattan held its Rodan + Fields’ Direct Approach biannual Ladies Night Monday, showcasing the wares of cosmetics brand Stila, spa and skin care products von and Mary Kay might pate in the brand on whatever SNIPPETS from the Cowshed brand and hair care products from A need to make way for a new level they feel they’d like to,” stylist Chrystoph Marten. competitor, Rodan + Fields, said Fields. While Stila showed off lit compacts and numerous which is turning to direct sales Aside from the one-on-one PERFUME SHOP EXEC: Jo Walker has been named lip shades — and Cowshed also helped light up the after selling its prestige product consultations with sales repre- chief operating offi cer of The Perfume Shop, which room with bath and body products and candles — line through department and sentatives, Rodan + Fields is is owned by A.S. Watson Group. Walker, who was Marten highlighted a leave-in conditioner and soaps, specialty stores. hosting skin care lecture clinic formerly the perfumery chain’s retail director, took new additions to his eponymous hair care line. “It was hard for our con- events at local hotels across on the role last week, following Jeremy Seigal’s sumers to come to a perfume U.S. cities. The fi rst event was appointment as chief executive offi cer of A.S. Watson PIERRE FABRE NAMES PR DIRECTOR: Pierre Fabre counter and openly discuss held on March 1 in Atlanta, (U.K.). Walker joined The Perfume Shop in 1992 Dermo-Cosmétique, the Paris-based pharmaceutical their personal issues with the with another eight planned as a store manager and later held the roles of area and skin care company, has named Diane girl at the counter since acne before the fall in cities such manager, operations manager, operations controller, Biancamano as director of public relations for René is something that’s more per- as Philadelphia, Chicago, San retail operations director and trading director. A.S. Furterer, Klorane and Galenic/Elancyl. Biancamano sonal and private,” said Katie Francisco and Orlando, Fla., and Watson, which is the retail arm of Hong Kong-based will work out of the company’s Parsippany, Rodan, M.D., who founded the in Orange County in California. Hutchison Whampoa Ltd., also owns Superdrug and N.J., offi ces and will be responsible for all U.S. company six years ago with her “These lectures give repre- Savers. The Perfume Shop counts 164 doors in the communications for the prestige hair and skin care business partner Kathy Fields, sentatives the opportunity to U.K. and Ireland. brands. Prior to Pierre Fabre, Biancamano served as M.D. “We started to fi nd out send people to be personally public relations manager at Clarins Group U.S. She that people would hear about engaged with the brand and be SOFT SKIN: Soft & Beautiful is getting into skin care. has also consulted for leading cosmetics companies, our products through their industry insiders,” said Rodan. The mass market hair care brand, which is owned by including Unilever Cosmetics, and has served as friends’ recommendations, To help take the pressure off Alberto-Culver Co. and targets women of color, is set director of public relations and advertising for which made us realize that this consultants who might not be as to introduce in July Soft & Beautiful Skin. The brand International Flavors & Fragrances. word of mouth type of business educated about skin care, the unveiled the line at a press event Tuesday afternoon is best served by a direct-sell- company has created an online in New York, which featured a mini fashion show with PLANKS SPLITS ASSETS: Plank LLC’s management ing approach.” survey to help address people’s nine evening dresses from designers KLS, Baby Phat has decided to divide the company’s yoga accessories Over the last six months, skin care concerns so and Betsey Johnson — a nod at the brand’s positioning, brand from its luxury line of silver-based skin care the company has pulled out they can get the right which contends that good skin is fashionable. The products, Cor. The split will take place April 21. of its specialty store distri- customizable program treatment line comprises six items, including a fi rming Separate marketing strategies and product operations bution including Fred Segal, that’s suited for their lotion, and is priced from $5.99 to $6.99. led to the split. Bloomingdale’s and Henri individual needs. Founder and creative director Doreen Hing Bendel. The company tested In addition to RODDICK DONATION: Anita Roddick, founder of The will maintain control of the Plank name and yoga its direct selling business changing its re- Body Shop and a human rights and environmental division, and general manager and partner Jennifer with 50 sales representa- tail distribution, campaigner, donated her fortune to charity, according McKinley will own the Cor product line and skin tives in the San Francisco the company is to reports in the British press, citing her will. care division. Bay area last spring. expanding into Roddick, who died suddenly in September 2007 Since March 1, it has body care with following a brain hemorrhage, reportedly on her death EARTH DAY SWEEPSTAKES: In celebration of Earth amassed more than 2,000 Unblemish Body, a left an estate valued at 665,747 pounds, or $1.3 Day on April 22, TotalBeauty.com, the online beauty U.S. sales representa- two-step system de- million, having given away 51 million pounds, or product library, will launch an eco-awareness tives. By yearend the com- signed to treat body $100.7 million at current exchange, to charity. Her campaign called “Totally Green Sweepstakes.” To pany hopes to have more acne. This May, the estate was consigned to taxes. When The Body Shop enter the sweepstakes, users simply need to write a than 7,500 consultants. company will in- was sold to L’Oréal in 2006, it was valued at 652 review on any one of 60,000 products featured on Products are also avail- troduce Unblemish million pounds, or $1.29 billion. Roddick had long the site. One lucky winner will win a 2008 Saturn able on rodanandfields. Salicylic Acid been vocal about her plans for her assets, and at one Vue Hybrid car fi lled with a year’s supply of green com, an e-commerce Web Exfoliating Body point she responded to pleading requests for funds and organic beauty products. The contest kicked site that was created to Wash and Salicylic via her Web site. “I will be giving my money away — off Wednesday and runs until June 5. Other prizes be a virtual clinic where Acid Body Spray, that’s a fact — but not at the moment,” her posting include a confl ict-free diamond from Brilliant Earth consumers can purchase which is designed read. “I’ve always said that I don’t want to die rich — and eco-spa trips from Spas of America. products and consultants to cleanse pores it’s mentioned in my book ‘Business as Unusual.’” can get weekly “Webinar” and exfoliate skin GUCCI MAN: Gucci announced yesterday that it hired training to help them grow while helping re- SUMMERSENT ABROAD: Niche fragrance brand actor James Franco as the face for its new men’s their businesses. Through The new body wash. duce oil production Summersent has taken an international turn. The fragrance, scheduled to launch in September. The the site, consultants and with phlorogine two-year-old fragrance collection, which includes a statement confi rms a report published in these pages consumers can also e-mail a and clove extract. The formula perfume, an eau de parfum, a body lotion and body on Wednesday. Frida Giannini, Gucci’s creative nurse with specifi c product ques- also diminishes post-acne marks cream, was launched this week at Liberty in London. director, said she chose Franco for the campaign tions and receive a response with its formula made from glu- Summersent was inspired by founder Marjorie because “…he represents my vision of the Gucci within 48 hours. cosamine and botanicals. The Kitzrow’s love of uncommon Hawaiian fl ora. The line man: stylish, cool, modern and contemporary with “We wanted to empower body wash will retail for $30, ranges in price in the U.S. from $55 for the 4-oz. an effortless air. At the same time there is something women and give them an op- while the body spray is $35. lotion to $150 for the 10-ml. perfume concentrate, rebellious and sexy about him, in his attitude and portunity to have a business of Industry sources estimate which comes in a glass bottle adorned with Swarovski style.” Franco, 29, starred in the “Spider-Man” trilogy their own in skin care so they that the line could do about $5 crystals. The scent is carried at about 30 stores in and will hit screens in August in “Pineapple Express,” can craft an experience for peo- million at retail in its fi rst year. the U.S., including Takashimaya in New York. alongside Seth Rogan. ple, allowing them to partici- — Michelle Edgar 12 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 18, 2008

The HBA Report WWD.COM Scrivo Unveils Downtown Salon Ted Gibson Taps Body, Home Markets By Andrea Nagel CELEBRITY HAIRSTYLIST TED GIBSON IS ADDING SOME BODY TO HIS hair care lineup this spring as he expands into bath and body products, in addi- HAIRSTYLIST AND SALON OWNER EVA SCRIVO HAS UNEARTHED A NEW tion to home fragrance. outpost — in the NoLIta section of Manhattan. “We’re an innovative brand that’s all about creating luxury products and now The salon is located at 50 Bond Street, one she, her husband and an architect I’d like to make it more of a lifestyle brand,” said Gibson. spent three months rebuilding, and that will for the next several weeks supplement After opening his New York salon located in Chelsea two years ago, Gibson Scrivo’s Hudson Street location. rolled out a 12-item hair care collection in Henri Bendel, eight Saks Fifth Avenue By the beginning of July, a new Meatpacking District salon on 13th Street, next door stores, QVC and Holt Renfrew in Canada. Since the launch, the products have al- to Spice Market, will replace the Hudson Street salon, which will close in June. most tripled with 34 items. His distribution also has grown both in existing retail The Meatpacking District salon will measure 4,200 square feet and also will doors as well as new retail partners — expanding into 15 Saks doors, in addition be the primary education facility for stylists from other salons on Scrivo’s cut- to launching in Sephora last fall. Gibson started off by launching on Sephora’s ting and coloring techniques, makeup and business- Web site in July, followed by 25 Sephora stores with two items. As of last month, building skills — an initiative that Scrivo began in Sephora devoted three shelves to Gibson’s products and doubled its distribution, the past year. now making the lineup available in 53 Sephora doors. The NoLIta salon is what she and her husband, “Ted Gibson’s products are a great mix of luxury and innovation and have Arik Efros, who is also the company’s chief execu- really fi lled a niche in the hair care category at Sephora,” says Allison Slater, tive offi cer, refer to as their labor of love, one that Sephora’s vice president of retail marketing. had them digging up eight layers and 100 years of Starting this month, Gibson is rolling out 12 new items for hair and body care, fl ooring and knocking down wall after wall, only to including Clarity Color Shampoo & Conditioner for color-treated hair, Potential discover windows that had previously not seen the Beauty Blood Orange Candle and Sugar Glow White Tea & Lemon Body Scrub, an light of day for decades. aromatherapeutic exfoliating scrub designed to be “We had planned to spend one month refur- used in conjunction with Gibson’s body shampoos bishing the space. That turned into three months,” and conditioners. Scrivo said at an editor event early this month. The Launching in fall, Gibson is introducing Rein- salon, opening Tuesday, includes 3,500 square feet vention, a foaming protein moisturizing hair mask. on its main fl oor, which houses a retail space as well For inspiration, Gibson looked at different skin care as the cutting and coloring areas. A 2,000-square-foot brands and adopted the products to hair care. lower level will contain spa services with treatment Eva Scrivo’s “I wanted to have something that as soon as rooms, and also will house offi ces. NoLIta salon. the air got to the formula, it would foam up in a During the event, which introduced the beauty mask,” said Gibson. “This product helps rebuild media to the new space, a camera crew for “The the hair with the proteins, while also acting as a Martha Stewart Show” was present, recording Scrivo’s welcome to editors and her moisturizer and deep conditioner.” struggle to turn the place into the modern-yet-funky space it has become. Gibson is also in discussions with “The midcentury Venetian [glass] chandeliers come from a store down the airlines and hotel chains to ex- street,” Scrivo said, which she hopes will complement the hardwood fl oors, sleek pand into the amenities busi- styling stations and modern furniture built by their architect, Vincenzo Mora, and ness. The company also has Nakaoka/Roberts design group. plans to open its second salon Scrivo, who serves as Stewart’s hair and makeup artist, often appears on her in Miami, marking Gibson’s fi rst show as a beauty expert. Despite all the success, she remains humble and grate- hotel partnership. ful, especially to the stylists with whom she works, as she introduced some of the “Our goal is to spread the mes- salon’s key players, attributing them to her windfall. sage by having salons in major cit- ies whether its through freestand- ing salons or ones linked to hotel chains,” said Gibson. Kenra Expands Platinum Line Although executives wouldn’t comment, industry By Kavita Daswani sources estimate that the Ted Gibson Beauty franchise is LOS ANGELES — Hair care company Kenra is embracing its Platinum side. worth $10 million in retail sales. The 50-year-old Indianapolis-based company, which rings up annual sales of ap- — Michelle Edgar The latest Ted Gibson items. proximately $45 million, is expanding its signature Kenra Platinum line, one that is widely regarded as the premier collection in the Kenra stable. Kenra was pur- chased last year by Toronto-based Imperial Capital for an undisclosed amount. “In what is a currently fl at industry, sales of our Platinum products have in- Sharps to Open NYC, U.K. Barbershops creased at a rate of 100 percent every year for the past four years,” said Patrick Ludwig, president of Kenra Ltd. “The collection makes up 30 percent of the total LONDON — Barbershop brand Sharps is tuning in to a U.K. audience. sales of the company.” The New York-based men’s grooming line, which opened its debut barbershop, Platinum was originally launched four years ago, with a core col- dubbed Sharps Barber and Shop, in November here, plans to also open two spac- lection of fi ve products specifi cally designed to maintain the lustre es in the U.K. capital as well as a door in New York by yearend. and shine of color-treated hair. There are now 18 stockkeeping units “The brand planned to offer high-quality barber services and that coincided in the collection, pitched to those who color their hair or not. This with the desire to introduce Sharps to the U.K.,” said Penny Brewer, Sharps’ U.K. includes two that launched last month. But Ludwig said the new marketing manager, noting that the London shop is the brand’s fi rst foray outside additions were just the start of an ongoing effort to capitalize on of its domestic market. “It seemed perfect to address and combine the two goals the success of Platinum. at the same time.” “We expect to launch another eight to 10 new Platinum products The fi ve-year-old brand’s grooming products are sold through barbershops and over the next 24 months,” he said. “We’re aiming for the fi rst two to department and specialty stores in the U.S. Sharps’ fi rst barbershop is located on come out by the last quarter of this year, or early 2009 at the latest.” Charlotte Street, just north of Soho, which is one of London’s media hubs. The The just-launched Platinum Working Spray and Platinum 430-square-foot space is meant to emulate a man’s living room and blends high- Finishing Spray are considered a big step forward for the company, tech elements, such as LCD television screens at each grooming station, with retro based on its success with the Kenra Classic Volume Spray 25, con- touches, such as old-school barbershop chairs. The interior features navy walls, sistently voted a favorite among stylists. walnut fi xtures and chrome shelving units, which house Sharps’ line of grooming “There was a high level of expectation in the market for the products as well as items by other brands, including Blackdice watches, Grenson sprays, and this is really our best foot forward,” said Ludwig. shoes and a selection of albums. Clients can even pick up a motorcycle for 1,395 “Since the launch, we’ve had very positive feedback,” said Ludwig, pounds, or $2,779 at current exchange, which is displayed in the store’s window. adding that the additions help to round out the Platinum line of sul- “We want Sharps Barber and Shop to become a guy’s one-stop shop,” said fate-free shampoos and conditioners, as well as styling aids. Brewer, adding that clients are encouraged to relax with a complimentary Ingredients include silicones, high-grade copolymers and pro- beer when they visit the store. “We don’t just want to push a daily grooming pellants, combined to guard against humidity and to easily wash regime, but a whole lifestyle.” The treatment menu out. The Finishing Spray offers more hold while the Working includes wet shaves priced at 31 pounds, or $61.70, Spray is for those who want a brushable effect. They are scented and a Full Service treatment, which includes a cut, with Sparkling Apple and Passionfruit Guava fragrances and re- shave, manicure and pedicure, for 77.50 pounds, or tail for $19. $154.40. Sharps product prices range from 7 pounds, Upcoming additions to the line will include products for condi- or $13.90, for a 4.5-g. tube of Daily Prep Lip Stuff, tioning, styling and smoothing. to 24 pounds, or $47.60, for a 100-g. jar of Mission “We really want Kenra Platinum to be a stand-alone line,” Control Bald Head Balm. said Ludwig. “We’re aiming for around 30 products in total, Industry sources estimate that the Charlotte Street Kenra’s new across all categories.” store will generate turnover in the region of 420,000 Finishing Spray. Ludwig said that his objective is to keep the line’s high-end pounds, or $832,859, in its fi rst year. Barbershops are image by restricting distribution through salons only; it is current- also set to open in Westfi eld London, a shopping mall ly in about 3,000 salons nationwide, where it sells for between $18 and $25. in West London, and in the Blue Fin Building in the “It’s not mass, it’s not everywhere, and it’s not diverted,” he said. The packaging is city’s Southbank neighborhood by this fall. Sharps also important; the sleek cylindrical silver containers were inspired by sophisticated plans to open a door in New York, and increase its Sharps’ skin care brands, as well as the etched glass bottles in which upscale vodka is sold. retail distribution in the U.S. and Canada from 200 to London In August, Ludwig opens distribution in Canada, where it will be in around 300 doors by yearend, Brewer said. location. 1,500 to 2,000 salons. — Laura Mitchell WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 18, 2008 13 WWD.COM Shareholders Criticize CEO’s Pay at Escada Annual Meeting

By Melissa Drier restructuring phase,” another age rate for the period. and Schürholz said he didn’t ex- was silent when asked his shareholder said, noting that For the quarter ended Jan. 31, pect the changes to have a posi- views regarding Loubier’s and MUNICH — Amid falling earnings investors were paying for his earnings before interest, taxes, tive impact before 2010. the company’s performance. and sales, Escada chief executive apartment in a top Munich hotel depreciation and amortization Schürholz reiterated Instead, Mingers responded, officer Jean-Marc Loubier came and frequent flights back to fell 68.5 percent to 6.8 million that global equity firm Apax noting that Aksenenko is a mem- under fire from shareholders at Paris. “This is an extreme catas- euros, or $10 million, on a sales Partners’ interest in taking a ber of the supervisory board and the German fashion house’s an- trophe for a company not mak- decline of 11.8 percent to 142.1 stake in Escada is a thing of supports the restructuring pro- nual meeting here Thursday. ing money.” million euros, or $208.1 million. the past. The talks broke off at gram initiated by Loubier. However, Loubier, who For the year ended Oct. 31, Escada this month revised its Apax’s request. The supervisory board ad- took over in June from Frank group sales fell 1.2 percent to earnings and sales forecasts for “The data room is closed,” vised against the payment of Rheinboldt, received support 686.8 million euros, or $923.1 the year. The group is expecting he said, responding to queries a dividend, for the fifth year from Escada supervisory board million, with Escada brand sales a sales decrease in the upper- regarding other interested par- running. The fall of stock price chairman Claus Mingers, who down 5.6 percent to 461.8 million single-digit percentage, and a 25 ties. “We have not spoken to any has come under the scrutiny of said the ceo was “excellently euros, or $620.7 million. Adjusted percent drop in group EBITDA. other companies.” the German regulatory agency suited for his position.” for currency effects, group sales The value of Escada’s shares has Majority shareholder BaFin. However, Escada spokes- Shareholders objected to were up 1 percent, and Escada fallen 75 percent in the last year. Rustam Aksenenko, who was man Frank Elsner said, “It is Loubier’s base salary of 375,000 brand sales were down 2.4 per- Loubier and chief fi nancial responsible for putting Loubier BaFin’s job to look into share euros, or $596,000 at current ex- cent. All dollar fi gures are con- offi cer Markus Schürholz said in the leadership position and prices, which they are doing. change, for his fi rst fi ve months verted from the euro at the aver- the company is restructuring, is known for his impatience, But there is no investigation.” in offi ce, not counting bonuses and extras of 310,000 euros, or $493,400, for a total of 685,000 euros, or $1.1 million, for the peri- od. They also criticized a “change of control clause” in his contract allowing Loubier to leave Escada with a golden parachute of more than 2 million euros, or $3.2 mil- lion, should a new shareholder take more than a 30 percent stake of the company. “When I read Loubier’s fi xed salary in the annual report, I thought this is reasonable in the circumstances — he’s taking less than the other board members,” a shareholder said. “But when I realized this was for fi ve months, and then noticed the bonuses, I was shocked.” Even his lack of a Munich residence was an issue. “Not living in Munich is not normal for the head of a company in a Charlotte Russe Names Salopek Next Chairman harlotte Russe Holdings CInc. said Thursday that chairman Bernard Zeichner will retire in June and be suc- ceeded by Jennifer Salopek, a principal with ARC Business Advisors LLC, a New York- based strategic advisory firm serving the apparel, retail and consumer sectors. Salopek joined the Charlotte Russe board in February 2006 and serves on the audit com- mittee and as chairman of the nominating and corporate gov- ernance committee. She previously worked as ex- ecutive vice president of strate- gy at Tommy Hilfi ger and was a senior vice president at Calvin Klein. She also was a partner at PricewaterhouseCoopers Consulting and its succes- sor, IBM Business Consulting Services. Charlotte Russe is a mall- based specialty retailer selling value-priced apparel and ac- cessories and targeting women in their teens and 20s. At the end of last year, the chain oper- ated 440 stores in 45 states and Puerto Rico. The company ex- pects to open about 60 stores in fi scal 2008. Zeichner started at Charlotte Russe as president and chief executive offi cer in May 1996, when the company had 37 stores, and was named chairman when the fi rm went public in 1999. 14 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 18, 2008 WWD.COM Media/Advertising

couture for an Elle cover shoot scene. to be the face of Louis Vuitton. I am Deneuve is slated to wear Yves Saint Mélanie not, however. You know who is? Scarlett Laurent, Hermès, Prada, Fendi and other Laurent at Johansson is the face of Louis Vuitton. MEMO PAD brands, while newcomer Bernier gets a the Fred Wrong interview.” The issue, with Ricci on wardrobe of Lanvin. party. the cover, hits this week. — Irin Carmon NEW LOOK, SAME COVERGIRL: O The Oprah Magazine doesn’t have a new editor in chief JOLLY GOUDE: Jean-Paul Goude has been THE ZELL SELL: A few months into the job as yet to succeed the departing Amy Gross, but fi lming out of Africa. The photographer, chairman and chief executive offi cer of the whomever he or she is, they’ll have a brand who helped jeweler Fred fete its revamped Tribune Co., Sam Zell is trying his hand at new cover design handed to them. And Place Vendôme boutique Tuesday night, calming the frayed nerves of his thousands yes, it still features Oprah. The June cover said he just wrapped up shooting a fi lm for of employees. He has authorized wacky — has the talk show queen pictured against Guerlain in South Africa, due for release some might argue oddly sophomoric — press a white background, with brightly colored in September. Goude also is in talks to releases with headlines such as “Surely you cover lines. “The May issue marked the have characters from his portfolio made can’t be serious? Marc Chase — president eighth anniversary of the magazine so June into a line of brooches for Fred. Mélanie of Tribune Interactive!” and set up an felt like a new beginning Laurent, meanwhile, e-mail account for employees to directly get and the perfect time to who hobnobbed with in touch with him (so far, 3,000 have sent make a few tweaks,” said a fellow French starlets e-mails to the boss and Zell said he has spokeswoman. She added Zoe Felix, Aïssa Maïga replied to all of them). “People want this that there will not be any and Alice Taglioni, said to work,” he said. “These people care and major design changes inside she was looking forward have a vested interest.” Zell also set up an the magazine. — Amy Wicks to attending another online idea bank for employees, which has party: as a guest of Louis received more than 2,000, providing insight FRENCH TOUCH: Laetitia Vuitton for Cannes’ yearly to improve the company. His comments Colombani’s next fi lm amfAR gala. The rising came during a conference call yesterday on

could do for contemporary actress also is working DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY the state of the company. fashion what Sofi a on a Franglais folk-pop Zell acknowledged that the future Coppola’s “Marie album. On the decks, DJ will involve divestitures. Offer books will Antoinette” did for Ariel Wizman, who’ll soon harder to explain, but Christina Ricci was be ready in the next two weeks for the macaroons. “Mes Stars be heading to Tokyo to pretty graceful about George Gurley’s slipup Chicago Cubs, and a transaction could et moi” or “My Stars and provide the music for a when he interviewed her for BlackBook. take place before yearend. He also talked Myself,” due on French Lanvin men’s show there When Gurley asked Ricci, “What’s it like about Newsday, acknowledging that there screens in October, has Emmanuelle Béart, May 26, said he’ll be releasing his second being the face of Louis Vuitton?” the are interested buyers but he hasn’t made Catherine Deneuve and Mélanie Bernier album in September. actress paused. Then she said, “Well, I’m a decision yet. In line with the rest of the playing actresses who shuttle from fashion not anymore. I was one of four actresses industry, Zell said that print advertising shoots to premieres wearing the trendiest MAKING AN IMPRESSION: In the age of Google, that they used in a campaign once and revenue is down this year, due in part to a brands. Béart, for example, wears Dior arriving unprepared for an interview is even it was really fun. I liked it. I would like continued decline in classifi ed ads. — A.W. Building Its Foundation: Prada Unveils Project Plans By Luisa Zargani discreetly in the audience. On the sidelines of the pre- that our work is not a simple refl ection of the personal- sentation, Bertelli addressed the initial public offering ity or mentality of [Bertelli and Prada].” MILAN — Prada chief executive officer Patrizio Bertelli issue and said Prada “will defi nitely go ahead with the Koolhaas “embodies the spirit of experimenta- and Miuccia Prada unveiled Rem Koolhaas’ blueprint listing,” but stopped short of setting a date. tion,” Bertelli said. “And Prada’s fashion is also about for the new Fondazione Prada headquarters and gallery “We are watching the markets and the currency experimentation.” on Thursday during the Salone del Mobile international variations, but we are in no hurry,” he said. “We need to Celant said the project is not solely a museum, empha- design and furniture exhibition. choose the most opportune moment.” sizing that the foundation is about being active in fi nding Bertelli and Prada, who created the nonprofi t organi- Business in the U.S. is “very good” and European new artists as well as preservation. In addition to the per- zation in 1993 and have collected more than 500 works by tourism in that market is a boost to the company, said manent exhibitions, there also will be temporary shows contemporary artists such as Anish Kapoor, Tom Sachs Bertelli, who has 50 store open- and Sam Taylor-Wood, will invest 25 million euros, or ings scheduled by next year in lo- $36.5 million at current exchange, in the project. cations such as Warsaw, Athens, A model of “I’ve rooted for this for so long, and it’s fi nally hap- Istanbul and Barcelona, in addi- the planned pening,” said a beaming Prada after the presentation. tion to cities in the Far East. Fondazione Asked about leaving this legacy to Milan, the designer But Bertelli’s focus was on the Prada said: “I love Milan, I know I could go anywhere I want, foundation project, which is ex- headquarters but my roots are here.” pected to be completed in three and gallery. A relaxed and upbeat Bertelli fielded questions years. It will be located in Milan’s from a stage with Koolhaas and Germano Celant, the Largo Isarco 2, in a late 1800s com- Fondazione’s artistic director, while the designer sat plex that once lodged a distillery and that has most recently been headquarters for the offices of Patrizio Luna Rossa, Bertelli’s internation- Bertelli al sailboat racing venture, which he said has come to an end. “It’s over. Everything has an end,” said the entrepreneur, who invested more than $80 million in three editions of the America’s Cup over the last decade. “Let’s leave it to someone else.”

Koolhaas’ plans for the exist- MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTOS BY ing 81,000-square-foot complex, which comprises seven build- and the foundation will approach “new media ings and surrounds a large and languages, from cinema to philosophy, central court, will incorporate from fashion to performances,” said Celant. another 108,000 square feet. The foundation’s works had been shown A striking new tower will in Prada’s headquarters in Via Fogazzaro, display the permanent exhi- and the exhibits were limited to a maximum bitions and will be added to of about 40 days, given the fashion-related the existing structure. A new events held there. Because of the large auditorium also will emerge scale of many of the artworks and expan- in the courtyard. sion into other media, Celant said the design Koolhaas said he had Germano team was obliged to think of “big spaces.” “great affinity” with Bertelli Celant and Two buildings will house the Prada and and Prada. “They are demanding Rem Koolhaas Luna Rossa archives. Celant said the new gallery yet cultured and refi ned clients who will allow the foundation to plan collaborations with love to experiment,” said the architect, international museums and support smaller museums. whose think tank, Offi ce of Metropolitan “This will be a technologically avant-garde exhibition ma- Architecture (OMA), has collaborated with the couple chine dedicated to contemporary culture but also suited for for years. “I’ve never been told that any of my designs historical pieces,” said Celant. was ever too ambitious,” he said, noting their “search for Bertelli, who hopes to fi nd sponsors to partly fi nance quality and experimentation.” future exhibitions, said, “We want to enjoy collecting As for how much of the Prada spirit seeps into his art works [and] cultivate the relationships with artists projects, Koolhaas said: “We are sophisticated enough in our search for original, free and fresh ideas.” WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 18, 2008 15 WWD.COM Giorgio Armani, Gucci Jackets Brighten AmericasMart By Georgia Lee seeking looks to wow customers. Stefanie Halperin, owner of ATLANTA — Novelty jackets Almanac, a women’s specialty store Enhance Web Profi les were the number-one fall item at in the Atlanta suburb of Alpharetta, AmericasMart here, as buyers clam- Ga., ordered spring fi ll-ins, including By Alessandra Ilari ored for special pieces to differenti- dresses, halters and tunics. She also ate themselves among consumers in bought a few denim lines, includ- MILAN — Giorgio Armani and Gucci are boosting their pro- a weakened economy. ing 575 and Habitual, and T-shirts files in cyberspace. “Buyers are complaining that, and bottoms to mix and match by Armani is launching armanicasa.com, a Web site for its with the Internet and department Bordeaux and Billy Blues. $50 million Armani Casa division. And gucci.com is getting a store competition, too much product For fall, Halperin picked up spe- section dedicated to the luxury brand’s new Chiodo watch. looks alike,” said Bruce Blaustein, cial occasion dresses from BCBG, The moves come as companies from Tommy Hilfi ger to vice president of Tapestry by cashmere wraps and formal pants Vera Wang undertake Web initiatives in efforts to bring new Arkady, a social occasion line tar- from MAG, but was somewhat dis- dimensions to their businesses. geting Baby Boomers. “We have to appointed. “I have been inspired by the challenge of creating a Web give them new and different.” “The market is too young and site that brings the values and sensibility of Armani Casa to Blaustein met with 12 new stores, trendy, especially for my subur- the virtual audience,” said Giorgio Armani. “With this new four from out of the South east, with ban customers,” she said. “They Web site, we would like to inform our international audience most leaving orders at the show. don’t like Empire waists and swing of Armani Casa’s signifi cant growth and give updated infor- “These days, a retailer can’t shapes that make them look preg- mation about the rich collections. It’s a new bridge toward afford to make mistakes,” said nant or heavy.” the global public and a further window on the heterogeneous Benjamin Belton, owner of Benjamin Halperin lamented the lack of Armani world.” and Libba’s, a men’s and women’s “classic, elegant clothes” in the The site is constantly updated with details, news and specialty store with three North market. events that provide a wealth of information for both the trade Carolina locations. “The biggest “Business is horrible and ev- challenge is to be creative and fi nd erybody knows it,” she said. the best ways to spend money for the “Manufacturers need to stand for biggest return on investment.” good quality product and stop being With year-to-date sales meeting so concerned with what celebrities last year’s fi gures, Belton cut his fall On the runway in Atlanta, are wearing.” budget, adjusting inventory to allow looks from Nicky Hilton In contrast, Debra McCabe, owner for better turns. (above) and Ted Baker of The Columns, a better-to-bridge “Everybody understands the mar- London (below). store in Forest, Va., said, “Business ket is challenging, and they want is good. People aren’t listening to the opportunities to buy new and fresh news reports.” looks,” he said. “Rather than buying McCabe bought sportswear with into any one line, merchants have to animal prints, textures and col- approach business by pulling togeth- ors such as plum and citrine, with er items from many different lines.” leather and button details. She Belton said the new “Baroque passed on skirts and denim, which jewel-tone colors,” such as magenta have slowed, and sleeveless dresses, and gold, brightened an otherwise a diffi cult sell for fall. Instead, she repetitive market, as did novelty purchased leather and stretch pants jackets. by Votre Nom, knit tunics by Emil “Everything’s about the jacket,” Rutenberg and separates by Alberto he said, citing visual appeal in a va- Makali and Jon. riety of shapes, textured fabrics, me- Items, rather than matching col- tallic threads, buttons, velvet trim lections, were the focus for Sonia and ruching. Says, a women’s specialty store. To Belton bought from Nanette bring newness into the store for fall, Lapore, Trina Turk and Milly, citing owner Sonia Steffes bought bright their good color, texture and fabric. colors in dresses by Randy Kemper AmericasMart officials said at- and others, and in her biggest cat- tendance at the show, which ended egory, jackets. its four-day run April 8, was fl at with “Jackets are great as fashion items last year, but noted an increase in to pair with dressy pants or with contemporary product, such as Ted jeans,” she said. Baker London and Nicky Hilton that Steffes ordered bell-sleeve, were featured at an opening-day three-quarter-length shapes by fashion presentation. Bianca, Three Sisters, Penta and Views of the Armani Casa Web site. “We consider [meeting attendance fi gures] a big Sarah Campbell. As outerwear, jackets have re- victory, given the expense of travel and the hor- placed sweaters, in fur-lined, belted, metallic and the consumer with online catalogues, store locators, out- ror stories out there,” said Chuck Corvi, project styles from Baxis and Cartise. She shopped for lets and the interior design service. manager of trade shows for AmericasMart. “We’ve black tie and cocktail dress lines with a “wow A video featuring a sequence of interiors and ambiences substantially increased the number of lines and factor,” she said, adding that accessories have takes visitors on a guided tour of Armani Casa’s offerings, upgraded exhibit space to attract buyers.” been her biggest challenge, especially clean, while the catalogue zooms in on specifi c products. Although accounts of the impact of the econo- classic handbags, given the plethora of overem- Armani launched giorgioarmani.com in 2000, and the my on business varied, retailers all said they were bellished styles in the market. platform features declinations of all the Armani lines, from Armani Collezioni and Armani Parfums to Armani Jeans. A number of pages showcase the company’s evolution through runway fl ashes, advertising campaigns, celebrity dressing, milestones and events. Cherokee 4th-Quarter Income Dives 86.4% Starting May 1, Gucci will augment its Web site with the section devoted to the latest Chiodo watch. Users can click pparel maker Cherokee Inc. reported fourth- For the full-year period, earnings sank 52.8 onto the interactive area, developed with a structure that Aquarter earnings plummeted 86.4 percent, percent to $16.4 million, or $1.84 a diluted share, enables visitors to browse the pages through different and because of a onetime payment that boosted last from $34.8 million, or $3.93, last year. Total rev- simplifi ed screen layers and log on to a 360-degree view of year’s results. enues dropped 45.7 percent to $41.6 million from the watch, which retails from $940 to $58,800. For the three months ended Feb. 2, earnings $76.6 million. Chiodo was unveiled this month at Baselworld, the inter- fell to $2.8 million, or 31 cents a diluted share, “We plan to build our brand representation national watch fair. It was inspired by the iconic square-head from $20.7 million, or $2.33, in the year-ago pe- business internationally utilizing the retail nail employed by the luxury goods house since the Sixties. riod. Last year’s results were helped by a $33 partnerships and relationships we have culti- Like the horse bit, the nail motif hails from the equestrian million payment in connection with a so-called vated over the past several years,” said Robert world, and is modeled on the pyramidal nails used to hold finders agreement. In that transaction, Iconix Margolis, chairman and chief executive offi cer. the shoe against the horse’s hoof. Further referencing Gucci’s Brand Group Inc. agreed to pay the $33 million “We believe that this will be a meaningful way history, designer Frida Giannini crafted a sterling silver ver- to Cherokee in exchange for Cherokee drop- for many brand owners to profi tably build their sion of Chiodo, an alternative to diamond-studded models, ping its offer to purchase Mossimo. That paved presence outside the U.S.” with square or round faces and a mother-of-pearl dial. the way for Iconix to later acquire Mossimo. Cherokee is also anticipating the launch of In addition, the Chiodo section will include download fea- Total revenues, which predominantly come Norma Kamali at Wal-Mart Stores Inc. tures, including a Chiodo widget. Widgets are small desktop from royalties, fell 79 percent to $8.7 million During the quarter, the company extended its applications that are continuously updated, offering multiple from $42.2 million. licensing agreement with Target Corp. through functions and information. International royalties in the quarter grew 25 Jan. 31, 2012, despite sales for the year falling 10.2 Besides showing time, the Chiodo widget will offer a percent to $5.5 million from a year ago. The com- percent at the discounter. notepad and a personal organizer. Developed for both Mac pany expects international royalties to continue Separately, the company approved the exten- and Windows, the Chiodo widget will be downloadable from to increase, as its new global licensees begin to sion of its share repurchase plan to Jan. 31, 2010, gucci.com/chiodo as well as Yahoo.com and apple.com. sell Cherokee branded products over the next for up to 800,000 shares. two years. — Jeanine Poggi 16 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 18, 2008 WWD.COM

Contemporary’s Spring Flings

The weak economy is taking a toll on retailers, but it seems that some shoppers do have spring fever. Contemporary sportswear fans are heading to the stores to pick up a sampling of the season’s best pieces, including dresses from Diane von Furstenberg and Mixie, scarves from Love Quotes and shorts from Alexander Wang. Here, a look at some of spring’s hottest items. — Julee Kaplan

Store: Henri Bendel Where: New York and henribendel.com A Mixie dress from Below:BBeBelelelow:ooww:w: HenriHeHenrinnrrii Bendel’sBeBenndenddedelsll’sl’’s’s Spring bestseller: Smythe’s two-button jacket in turquoise. Rapunzel’s Closet. SmytheSmySmSmmyythtthehhee jacket.jajacckeckkkeett.. Retail price: $578 Why it’s selling: “This Smythe jacket is doing so well because it is fl attering and is right on trend,” said Ann Watson, vice president, fashion director. “The bright, fun color and the feminine cut make it the perfect jacket for the season and in particular for right now, the transition from winter to spring. In an economy where people are considering their purchases very carefully, this is a versatile item that can go from day to evening.”

Store: Shopbop.com Where: The Internet Spring bestseller: Alexander Wang’s denim shorts. Retail price: $285 Why it’s selling: “We sold out of it in a matter of days,” said Erinn Crandall, head buyer. “It’s sexy with a tank and blazer — howw it went down the runway — with fl ats or heels. It’s one of our favoritefavorite pieces for spring and we’re happy our customers felt the sameme way.”way.”

Store: Net-a-porter.com Where: The Internet Spring bestseller: Diane von Furstenberg’s kimono dress. Retail price: $325 Why it’s selling: “Dresses have sold extremely well for several seasonsseasons now Shopbop.com’s and electric brights have been a strong trend for spring,” saidid Alison Alexander Wang Loehnis, vice president of sales and marketing. “This runwayay look from shorts. Diane von Furstenberg is fl attering and versatile. It can be cinchedcinched in at the waist and teamed with high heels at night or worn loose andand pairedpaired with fl at metallic sandals during the day.”

Store: Rapunzel’s Closet Where: Palm Beach, Fla. (three locations) and shoprapunzels.com.com ▲ Kritik’s Spring bestseller: Printed dress from Mixie. hoodie at Retail price: $151 Atrium. Why it’s selling: “We found this line at MAGIC in Las Vegas a few months ago,”ago,” said Randi Siegel, owner. “They have great styles, very fun prints andand amazing prices. I think this dress is doing so well because it’s got a bright print onon a basic black background and the cut is very feminine. It can be dressed down with fl at metallicallic sandals or up with a heel.”heel.”

Store: Atrium Where: New York, Miami and Livingston, N.J. Spring bestseller: Kritik’s Ashlee terry hoodie. Retail price: $150 Why it’s selling: “This year, the spring shopper is looking for pieces that are both comfortable and sophisticated,” said a spokeswoman for Atrium. “The Ashlee hoodie by Kritik has an awesome fi t and the colors offered are perfect for spring.”

Store: Searle Where: New York (eight locations) Spring bestseller: A Searle brand ponte knit cap-sleeve dress. Retail price: $398 Why it’s selling: “Ponte is a fabric that can be worn all year round,” said Rick Weinstein, A Diane von Furstenberg Searle’s director of sales and marketing. “It’s become a staple at this point. The dress can dress at Net-a-porter.com. be worn from work to dinner and the fi t is superb. The fact that it has a sleeve is paramount, too, as most women look for a little coverage on that part of their body. Plus the dress comes in a rainbow of colors.” An Autumn Cashmere cardigan Store: Olive & Bette’s at Olive & Bette’s. Where: New York (four locations) Left: Searle’s best- Spring bestsellers: Autumn Cashmere’s Itty Bitty cardigan in eight colors and The Stilt selling dress. jeans by AG in white. Retail prices: $260 for the cardigan and $175 for the jeans. Why they’re selling: “[The cardigan is] the perfect twist on a classic, the colors are amazing and it can be worn year-round,” said Stacey Pecor, owner. “Also, its small shape makes it perfect for layering over dresses. “[The jeans are] supersoft, the fi t is amazing and its clean, sophisticated shape is perfect for our customers.”

Store: Rowe Where: Columbus, Ohio Spring bestsellers: Scarves from Tolani and Love Quotes. Retail prices: $75 for Tolani and $70 for Love Quotes. Why they’re selling: “They are the perfect way to fi nish off a look,” said Maren Roth, owner. “I am a jeans and T-shirt girl most days. I swear by a Nation or LNA white V-neck, a great pair of denim from Level 99 or Anlo and always fi nish off or add to my outfi t by throwing a Tolani or Love Quotes scarf on. I really feel that scarves are such a staple in today’s wardrobe, so instead of buying a new top, many women, and A Love Quotes men, for that matter, are bulking up scarf at Rowe. on scarves.” WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 18, 2008 17 WWD.COM Report Sees Slower Bloomingdale’s Raises $80K for Child Center By Sharon Edelson NEW YORK — Bloomingdale’s fashion presen- Global Trade Growth tation and luncheon to benefit the NYU Child Study Center on April 11 raised $80,000, includ- By John Zarocostas goods exports, up 12 percent. ing ticket sales, proceeds of a raffle and the re- Low said emerging countries tailer’s donation of 10 percent of the day’s sales GENEVA — Global trade in 2008 is accounted for more than half the of Designer Collections. projected to increase at the lowest world’s trade growth last year. Sixties-inspired dress designer Lisa Perry, rate in six years because of turmoil South Asia’s most dynamic econ- whose looks were featured along with Tuleh, in financial markets and the sharp omy, India, moved up two slots to said she has friends on the center’s board and economic slowdown in the U.S. be the 26th largest exporter, with “when it fi rst opened, I got involved. They do a and other major economies, a new shipments worth $145 billion, a 20 day camp for kids who wouldn’t normally go to report said Thursday. percent gain from the year before. camp. I helped fund it in a small way.” The study by the World Trade Last year, the U.S. remained Describing the center’s mission, she said, Organization predicted that trade the world’s top importer with a 5 “They bring [understanding] of any kind of Brooke Garber Neidich, chairman of the NYU Child volume would go up 4.5 percent, or percent increase in the value of learning disability or mental illness to the Study Center board; Frank Doroff, vice chairman of 1 percent less than 2007. However, shipments to $2 trillion, followed forefront so it’s not a stigma. People used to be Bloomingdale’s; luncheon co-chairs Marcia Mishaan, the report cautioned that there are by Germany with a 17 percent ad- ashamed and CSC has helped integrate kids Claude Wasserstein and Chris Mack, and Michael considerable downside risks. The vance to $1 trillion, and China in into the mainstream.” Gould. WTO warned that a stronger eco- third place with $956 billion, up Perry, who praised Bloomingdale’s largesse, time I’d like to tell all of the ladies, including nomic downturn “could cut trade 21 percent. wasn’t only referring to the retailer’s generos- my wife, to shop,” he said. “Don’t listen to news- much more sharply, to signifi cantly The report said U.S. imports ity on the charity front. “Bloomingdale’s has papers. Don’t listen to doom and gloom. Shop, less” than the level forecast. from China “rose by 12 percent, been so incredibly supportive,” of her collec- shop, shop.” The organization’s chief econo- more than twice as fast as total im- tion, she said. “They gave me the windows on Michael Gould, chairman and chief execu- mist, Patrick Low, told reporters ports, despite very weak U.S. im- Lexington Avenue and took out full-page ads tive offi cer of Bloomingdale’s, said, “For us life that projections will probably port demand in electronic goods for my collection.” is, in part, about selling merchandise. At the have to be revised in the third or and clothing,” two key sectors of Harold S. Koplewicz, director of the cen- end of the day, nobody’s going to remember our fourth quarter. U.S. imports from China. ter, said there are 15 million children in the sales, but that we were able to give back to our Last year, boosted by results Energy-rich Russia, fl ush with U.S. with psychiatric and learning disorders. community.” from robust emerging economies huge increases in export reve- “The majority of kids with disorders go un- With that, Anne Keating, Bloomingdale’s such as China and India, global nues, notched a 35 percent rise in treated,” he said. “A high percentage of juve- senior vice president of public relations, took trade in value terms increased imports to $223 billion. A signifi - niles in prison have attention defi cit disorder the microphone and urged guests to buy the 15 percent to $13.6 trillion, the cant increase was also reported by and/or dyslexia.” $100 centerpieces on their tables: “I have study said. The disparity be- India, with imports up 24 percent Noting that Bloomingdale’s has sponsored boxes underneath the tables so you can pack tween the rate of increase in to $217 billion, and Turkey, which the event for four years, Koplewicz urged lun- them up. Come on, please buy them, I want trade volume and value is largely was up 22 percent to $170 billion. cheon guests to spend money. “This is the one them to go away.” attributed to the weakened dol- WTO director general Pascal lar, since global trade is calcu- Lamy said the economic turmoil lated on U.S. currency. has not led to a disruption in glob- The report, “World Trade 2007 al trade, but noted “protectionist and Prospects for 2008,” said the pressures are building as policy Click-and-Mortar: Mall Hits Web fastest-growing major emerging makers seek answers to the prob- economy, China, posted a 26 per- lems that confront us.” He said the THE AMERICANA MANHASSET HAS Products on the site include Jessica cent increase in exports to $1.2 best way to reinforce the global taken the e-commerce plunge. Kagan Cushman bangles, $125; a Lucien trillion last year, which elbowed trading system is to conclude Doha The Manhasset, N.Y., open-air luxury Pellat-Finet skull-motif sweater, $1,285; out the U.S. as the world’s sec- global trade talks, launched in shopping center has always focused on fi ne- an Edidi small clutch, $1,100; Lanvin bal- ond-largest exporter, behind top- November 2001 and aimed at low- tuning its retail mix and maintaining high lerina fl ats, $540; a Norma Kamali chiffon ranked Germany. The U.S. was po- ering tariffs and other barriers to architecture and landscaping standards in gown, $300; a Kara Ross cuff, $385; Luciano sitioned third with $1.1 trillion in global commerce. branding itself as a destination for top brands. Padovan slingbacks, $420, and a Libertine Cyberspace took a backseat to terra fi rma — button-down shirt, $500. The items will be until now. The Americana has launched a changed biweekly. slice of e-commerce in conjunction with one Americana Manhasset’s store ros- of its longtime tenants, Hirshleifer’s. ter includes Bottega Veneta, Cartier, CH Ruling Made in Roxy Trademark Case “It was time to get into the e-commerce Carolina Herrera, Chanel, Dior, Fendi, game,” said Andrea Sanders, senior vice Gucci, Hermès, Giorgio Armani, J.Mendel, By Khanh T.L. Tran our Roxy brand. We need to stop president and creative director of Americana Louis Vuitton, Ralph Lauren and Oscar de the confusion.” Manhasset. “You can’t not pay attention to it. la Renta. LOS ANGELES — A federal judge In addition, McKnight said We’re not a store but we wanted to work with When the center opened in 1956, it had a has issued a permanent injunc- Quiksilver was concerned our stores. We’re hoping people come to our supermarket, movie theater and department tion prohibiting Kymsta Corp. that Kymsta might license the site because they respect us and are looking store, among other tenants. B. Altman joined from using trademarks that re- Roxywear name to be used on to be surprised and inspired by the products in 1971. Luxury designers began arriving to- semble those of Quiksilver Inc.’s other merchandise. we choose to feature.” ward the end of the Nineties, with another junior brand Roxy. The reach of the Roxy empire The e-commerce component of ameri- wave coming in 2003 when a 40,000-square- The decision on Tuesday by extends to more than 90 coun- canamanhasset.com launched with 12 items foot addition was built. Judge Valerie Fairbank came in a tries and the brand has annual that consumers “won’t see everywhere else,” “We have a very strategic plan for market- trademark infringement lawsuit global sales of more than $800 she said. ing e-commerce,” Sanders said. It includes that Huntington Beach, Calif.- million in junior sportswear, Americana Manhasset personal shoppers direct mail and promoting e-commerce on based Quiksilver fi led six years swimwear, fragrance, footwear, along with Hirshleifer’s buyers will edit the the Americana’s home page and e-mail blast- ago in U.S. District Court. accessories, infants’ clothes and products each season. ing Hirshleifer’s and Americana customers Los Angeles-based Kymsta even iPod speakers. “It will grow organically,” Sanders said. and personal shopping customers. sells women’s apparel under the “There was the fear of [Kymsta] “We’ll see what kinds of things customers are “We see this as a fi ve-year plan and be- brands of Roxywear by Roxanne creating turmoil,” McKnight said. interested in. We expect more vendors to get yond,” Sanders said. Heptner, Roxywear by Roxx and The decision said that Kymsta on board once they see how nicely we pres- — S.E. Roxywear. However, the judge was an innocent user of the ent the products....We want to maintain qual- ruled that Quiksilver used the Roxywear trademark and did ity control over fulfi llment.” trademark of Roxy fi rst and has not intentionally infringe on

the full right to it. Quiksilver’s marks. ▼ Kymsta, which is considering Three years after Quiksilver Platinum or an appeal of the decision, was fi led the lawsuit in 2002, Kymsta 24-karat gold- not required to pay damages to evolved its Roxywear line from the framed clutch Quiksilver. However, during the junior category to contemporary by Edidi. next 18 months, it is required to sportswear, said James Nguyen, phase out the Roxy-related trade- an attorney at Los Angeles-based marks used on its apparel. Foley & Lardner LLP, who repre-

The lawsuit is indicative of sented Kymsta. He said Roxywear’s the measures many companies sales range from $1 million to $2 ▼ A cuff by Kara take to protect their trademarks, million in wholesale sales through Ross. especially in the Internet age, retail accounts including Barneys when Web sites such as Facebook, New York, Bloomingdale’s, Fred MySpace and blogs rapidly dis- Segal and Henri Bendel. Though ▼ seminate information. Roxy and Roxywear share some Gold Lanvin “Communication is instanta- retailers, such as Nordstrom and fl ats. neous and all these kids are con- Bloomingdale’s, they target differ- necting,” Quiksilver chairman ent customers, he said. and chief executive offi cer Bob “There is a possibility that this McKnight said in an interview. is not over,” Nguyen said, noting “Roxywear brand is confusing to that Kymsta might appeal. ADVERTISEMENT LUXURY LIVING RESIDENTIAL REAL ESTATE PROPERTIES FOR THE STYLE SET

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Account Executive Leading jewelry designer is looking Showrooms & Lofts for a dynamic salesperson with a Bulgari Contemporary Italian Designers of jewelry, watches and BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS passion for selling and excellent accessories seeks personable and experienced Luxury Retail Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Accounting/ Inv.Costing ASST. TECH. DESIGNER ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Major NY Apparel Importer looking communication skills. Seeking an Professionals to join our new Atlanta store at the Lenox Square for individual with Costing experience Job located in Stamford, CT AE to handle day to day customer (minimum 2 yrs) in Inventory Costing vineyard vines® is seeking an service, attract new business, & Mall for the following opportunities: & Control. Strong Excel required along with Inventory Closings and Asst Tech Designer w/1-2 yrs exp. participate with the planning and Journal entries. We offer competitive Strong organizational & computer executing of trunk shows. Must Store Manager salary & benefits including 401K. skills, incl. Excel. The position be wiling to travel and have basic Please e-mail resume & salary history to: [email protected]/Fax resume will focus on measuring garments, computer skills. Attractive salary to: 1-212-658-9148 taking fit notes, daily comm. with plus performance bonus. E-mail Sales Professionals factories and file maintenance. resume to: [email protected] [email protected]. REDUCE YOUR Store Support Administrator ADMIN ASSISTANTS Patternmaker SHIPPING COSTS Seeking couture/designer patternmaker Security Guard We are a garment manufacturer seek- SALES, RECEPTION Design with 5+ years experience. Must have ing to share shipping costs. We have Prestigious eveningwear designer complete understanding of construction, a state of the art facility in Secaucus, ASSISTANT DESIGNER fit & draping, and good communication Store Manager must have experience with managing a luxury retail New Jersey. Clean, organized, compu- is hiring a Sales Assistant and a NY based women’s sportswear company Receptionist/Admin Asst. Both posi- skills. Excellent opportunity for the terized and, we are seeking other gar- seeks FT or PT assistant designer. right person. Please call: 212 938 1933, store. Sales professionals must have a proven track record with a ment companies to share shipping tions require wholesale fashion exp w Must have extensive knowledge of top organizational & communication Fax resume to: 212-938-1936 or E-mail minimum 3 years of luxury retail costs. We ship and receive domestic Photoshop/ Illustrator, Matrix, CAD resume to: [email protected] and foreign product. To discuss this skills. Both should be detail drawing and technical flats. Back- sales experience. “Entrepreneurial opportunity, call Michael 201-558-9191 or oriented and technologically savvy. ground in cut & sew knits a must. 2 yrs [email protected] The receptionist will assist the exp preferred. Please Send resume to: Production Coord $70-80k. Current exp mindset” and superior communication Finance Dep’t and others. Excellent [email protected] in processing garment production skills are essential. Store support benefits. College degree and strong from inception to completion for references required. Email resume to: Walmart account req’d. Bway/40th St. administrator must be detail oriented and [email protected] DESIGNER ASSOC. $67-70k. Current [email protected] 973-564-9236 have excellent organizational skills while exp in layouts for embellishments on knit tops + wovens. Create pitch working in a team retail environment. sheets for layouts in Excel. Re-color SALES ASSISTANT prints. Women’s sportswear. Midtown. Fast paced NYC ladies’ clothing co Must be available to work weekends/ retail CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING [email protected] 973-564-9236 seeks a sales assistant to support U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 Beauty PR Director sales executive. Responsibilities in- hours. We offer a competitive salary and www.sanodesignservices.com clude writing orders, filing, sample, Please email At Intelligent Beauty , talent, requests, sending out packages and generous benefits package. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, energy and passion aren’t just Designer Associate creating spreadsheets. Individual resumes to: words they are a way of life that’s Girls 2-16 import sptswr co seeks orgnz & must be detail-oriented able to multi PRODUCTIONS helped us become the fastest growing dtl-ort’d team player w/min 5 yrs exp. task and be proficient in Excel and All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. beauty company in the world Duties incl. sketch,construction details Word.2 years experience a must. Fax [email protected] Call Sherry 212-719-0622. and the largest online advertiser production pkgs for o/seas ftys, artwork resume to Laura Dat: 212-921-7713 in the industry. & approval comments. Mac CS req’d. www.bulgari.com eoe E-mail resume:[email protected] PATTERNS, SAMPLES, SALESPERSON WANTED PRODUCTIONS We’re building something special, Importer of Fashion Jewelry seeks Full service shop to the trade. with innovative products, diverse exp’d salesperson w/major store & spe- Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. brands, amazing state-of-the art cialty store following. Fax 212-685-4039 offices and an entirely new way or email [email protected] of reaching customers thru the Search Internet. DESIGNER Charlotte Ronson seeks a Designer hundreds of If you are a PR all-star with an ex- with min 3-5 yrs design experience. cellent track-record of generating Flat sketching, teck packs, trims, and TECHINICAL DESIGNER buzz, if you’re on a first-name presentation boards. Must have extensive Steven Alan seeks detail-oriented tech positions in basis with a robust database of familiarity with contemporary market: designer for a full-time position. Tech national media contacts, if you trends, colors, fabrications, styles, packs, fittings, grading, and oversees fashion, retail want to work with the best & the strong Photoshop, Illustrator, & Excel communication. Prior experience and brightest in the beauty industry, skills and experience in development strong communication skills are and beauty. we want to hear from you today! w/overseas factories. Salary & benefits required. Must be familiar with Illus- based on exp. Please include digital trator, Photoshop, and Microsoft Of- Experience and Understanding of portfolio (pdf or jpg) with your resume. fice. Salary + benefits. Please email We are an exciting, established, diverse and growing jewelry The Beauty Industry a necessity . Resumes without a portfolio will not resume: [email protected] company looking to expand our team. be considered. E-mail to: E-mail your resume with cover [email protected] letter & salary requirements to: WHOLESALE SALES REPRESENTATIVE [email protected] Vendor Compliance Openings in SOHO, New York Garment Manufacturer looking for individual with EDI and vendor com- Multi line high-end fashion and fine jewelry showroom is seeking an pliance background; HSN & SEARS knowledge preferred. Bilingual a plus. experienced, motivated, energetic salesperson with 4-5 yrs experience. Designer/Dancewear Microsoft Office and Internet knowl- This individual must have established working relationships with better Danskin®/Triumph Apparel Corp, world edge a must. Position is located in specialty and department stores. Must be a polished professional with: renowned dance resource, has exciting Secaucus NJ. Morning shift 7:45am to opportunity for a dynamic Dance Wear 3:45pm. Fax resumes to 201-558-9898 • Strong communication skills & excellent organizational abilities. Designer to design comprehensive Attention Michael. • Excellent follow through, self motivated, enthusiasm & creativity. collections from innovative fashion to core basics. Ideal candidate is a proactive • Able to drive a business & possess the skills to take existing self starter & detail oriented team businesses to the next level. player w/at least 7 yrs of dance wear exp • Position includes trade shows and road work designing Women’s, Teens & Girls, strong color sense; knowledge of knitted fabrics; in depth garment fit and We offer excellent company benefits construction expertise. Proficiency in Please email resume to: [email protected] Illustrator and Photoshop a must. Competitive comp & benefits package. Please, send resumes w/salary history to: [email protected] or Fax to: 212-930-9103. EOE/M/F/V China Garment Mnfctr NY office seeks cooperation with inde- pendent sales reps. Must have better specialty and chain store contacts. PatternMaker-Lectra GANT Great benefits! Call: 212-967-8882 Queens based Global Company seeks Women’s Sr. Acct Exec experienced Lectra Pattern Maker. Authentic American lifestyle brand Responsibilities include: seeking experienced candidates to joinis •To create and complete accurate pat- New York showroom team. Candi- Sales Executive Generate sales, meet established sales terns and full garment specifications ourdates should be enthusiastic, highly that meet specific design requirements. motivated and have strong communi- targets. Manage and maintain ac- Great Opportunity counts. Ideal Candidate must have •To complete full patterns including cation skills. Must have a min of 5 yrs Young, missy, growing company look- grading for local and offshore production. experience in the better sportswear in- strong contacts and sales base; exp in ing for energetic, motivated salesper- sales and marketing. Knowledge of •Ensuring that the final patterns are dustry and established contacts in the son to deal with specialty stores, small graded/ and/ or digitised creating samples better specialty/department store arena. Private Label; must be computer liter- chain stores and dept. stores. Min 2 ate and self motivated. Team players, for marker making. year experience. Salary + commission •Provide support to product Please send resume in confidence and processes excellent written and verbs offered. E-mail resume: skill. [email protected] development/quality team when required. salary history to [email protected] [email protected] Email resume:[email protected]

Little MissMatched Dynamic lifestyle brand, experiencing For subscriptions, tremendous growth seeks sales talent with specialty account experience. Apparel /childrens wear background & wholesale selling experience call 800-289-0273 important. Positions available in NYC, Midwest & the W.Coast. Please email resume with salary requirements to or visit our website [email protected] SALES ASSOCIATE Trendy Handbag Co. is seeking a self- Global Production/Global motivated indiv. with Junior/Specialty QA/Corporate Social Responsibility- & Department Store knowledge. Offering ALL IN ONE PERSON. Twenty years Licensed, Branded, Private Label and + on the ground, in factory, exp in WWD.COM Generic product. Also perform as sales China, South East Asia, Mexico, assistant with administrative & customer Central America, Africa etc. service skills. 3-5 years exp. req’d. Fax (201) 224-4147 [email protected] resume to 212-563-0598 OR E-mail: [email protected] Beauty Pioneers. Retail Innovators. International Marketers.

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