Beyond - Episode 2

The curious case of Errum Manzil- When custodians want to become owners

This is a Suno production and you’re listening to Beyond Charminar.

Vaishali: Welcome to the second episode of Beyond Charminar. In this episode, we continue our conversation with Yunus Lasania, who will host the subsequent episodes of Beyond Charminar. We will also speak to the convener of INTACH Ms Anuradha about Errum Manzil, which the ruling government wants to demolish and build a new assembly in its place. I'm Vaishali, a reporter for Suno India bringing this episode to you.

Errum Manzil was an Indo-European Baroque styled structure which was built in 1870 by Nawab Safdar Jung Musheer-ud-daula Fakhrul Mulk. The words Errum Manzil translate to “Paradise Mansion” in Persian. Spread across 17 acres, it currently houses the Public Works Department of the Telangana government. The current argument around it is symptomatic of the failing heritage protection mechanisms in the city.

The State government, which is supposed to be the protector of heritage is talking about demolishing a structure. It is not a small thing. Yunus, why do you think here we do not have many protests? If someone says that they will break down Qutub Minar, I am pretty sure half of Delhi will be on roads.

Yunus: ​"Hyderabad's history is something we are unaware of, as it is hidden. Firstly, some people think that it is good to get rid of the Nizam era things. The 1947-48 history has created a big void, leaving a bad taste in a lot of people's mouths. People do not know the importance and significance of the Palace. Secondly, Andhra-Telangana issue comes into the picture. Under the then 's government, activists used to say that things will be better in Telangana as we will have our own state. Ironically, at least then there was a heritage protection committee, which listed out all the buildings. There are roughly 160 listed monuments (only listed). I do not think the monuments have any protection now. It is not just apathy. You can not protect something unless you know its importance. There are people in Hyderabad who have not visited the Charminar. People do not know what the buildings have been built for. Errum Manzil was constructed by one of the erstwhile noblemen, who were working under the Nizams during the Asid Jahi era. After operation polo, a lot of buildings went to the government or the owners. Some of them who went to Pakistan sold it, some of them sold it as they needed money. Some of the nobility who could afford to go to Pakistan left because they feared repercussions from the Indian government, a lot of them were jailed by the Hyderabad government officials. The government did not have a lot of buildings, they were happy to use these buildings as government offices. Nobody knows what they have been built for, nobody knows their historical value. Our current building is a brilliant structure with historical significance. The assembly building was in the Baag-e-aam (it means public gardens). It was built in 1903-04 under the sixth Nizam and was gifted to him by the city. They had a council, a legislative process 100 years ago. Golden Jubilee hall’s insides are beautiful. I am not sure what is there to complain of. People will cry in Hyderabad about everything, but they will not do anything. Those who want to do something are very few. Most of the people do not know anything about history."

Vaishali: Thank you, Yunus, for that brief.

On reaching out to Anuradha Reddy who is the convener of INTACH, Hyderabad, we understand more about the laws governing heritage structures in the State, and why the state wants to demolish the Errum Manzil.

Coming to the discussion that has sprung around Erramanzil, can you brief us about the history of Errum Manzil, and why the current state government wants to build a new assembly there, considering we already have a very beautiful assembly.

Anuradha Reddy: ​"Thinking and talking about Erram Manzil, I would like to use the Persian term Erramanzil, which means paradise. It is one of several structures protected by the HMDA (Hyderabad Metropolitan Development Authority). HUDA (Hyderabad Urban Development Authority) became HMDA. There was a need in 1981 when we learnt that Bombay had set up its own rules for Heritage regulations apart from the centrally protected ASI monuments and the state-protected archaeological monuments. We have a rich history of architecture. So, INTACH realised the need to assess and present it to the government, HMDA and HUDA, and to protect them under a different category. We initially suggested 167 structures and suggested more as the years went by. There was the heritage conservation committee in HMDA/HUDA. They had to be consulted for any conversions, demolitions and changes because it was important to retain the historicity, and the originality of the structures. The heritage conservation committee had to be renewed once every three years. One government found it convenient not to renew the committee. They did not demolish the regulations act, but they did not renew the heritage conservation committee either. This happened under three different sets of governments.

Real estate plays a very important role here. People who do not understand and treasure the history and heritage have become responsible for our heritage. Politics and real estate have become more important than people. After the de-notification, we started to see structures go. Starting from private structures, now even the institutional structures are being de-notified and destroyed. The structures are not only beautiful, but they also created open space and environmental opportunities. People opted to live in and around them. Now, they're used as real estate opportunities.

Initially, when they were notified under HUDA and HMDA, public notices would be given, and public hearings would be held before being notified. In this case, nobody was informed or consulted, and the public was not a part of it. People who do not understand heritage have made the decisions, we are afraid that we may lose Errum Manzil and more others. I still hope that sense will prevail. Errum Manzil was constructed with the Nawab Faqrun Mulk's personal funds and not by the State. He built the palace, which is today's Chest Hospital and , and also gave a wonderful style of structure to the city. The term "Osmanian" came about because Osman Ali Khan, the 7th Nizam gave us numerous structures in the city along the river Musi, like the Arts College, High Court, Osmania Hospital and the City Central Library. Victoria Hospital also came up at that time. These are iconic combinations of different styles of architecture. People brought them together because the Deccan, especially the was the meeting point for all these cultures. A large part of our culture is Iranian.

All of these cultures brought diversity and wonderful architecture in this area. We have inherited today's Telugu speaking Telangana from the Hyderabad state. But, Telangana is not only about Telugu. All these languages, people and cultures come together to make Telangana. The state government needs to recognise and protect these structures."

Vaishali: Yes, yes. Why do you think, when the whole discussion about Erramanzil came up, apart from the media covering it, no large protests are happening out there? Why is it that only a few people who actually understand the importance of historical buildings and the heritage coming together to raise a voice, and a larger section of the population isn't?

Anuradha Reddy: ​"Most of the residents are not part of the ownership protection. They do not know and do not care. A large section of them who are on social media are concerned, there are huge protests in social media. The understanding of heritage is wrong. For example, when someone built Charminar, it was a new structure then. But today, it is our heritage. If they have built something 150 years ago, it is a part of our heritage today. It is simply not a notification by some authority with a stamp on it, that is recognised as heritage. Your grandmother's house is a heritage, your grandmother's public participation becomes public heritage. But, a public property needs to be consulted on. This is where people need awareness and political parties' understanding. It should be notified by a series of public notices and be part of the denotification, instead of a 5 minutes assembly poll. Another aspect I would like to bring here is tourism. Tourism ministry should understand that heritage brings people here (especially the built heritage, because it is visible). If you look at smaller countries like Cambodia, Peru, Bhutan, Nepal, and some South American countries, their heritage brings money to develops their economy. Whether you love your heritage or not, look at it as something that will bring the right kind of money. People who spend will stay for more days, discover Telangana's rich and diverse built heritage. This is something that should be understood and recognised."

Vaishali: What is the status of this whole issue around Errum Manzil? The Chief Minister has laid a foundation stone there, and there are several cases in the High Court. What are the legal aspects of it?

Anuradha Reddy: ​“From the INTACH Hyderabad chapter, I, a structural engineer, an architect and other members have conducted an inspection. We did a preliminary visual survey of the structure at Errum Manzil (not only of the structure but also of the surroundings). We find that there are not more than 9 acres there. The building is neglected, there is no maintenance, and there are water intrusions into the roof. The building, having been constructed with granite and chuna, it is very strong. We can compare this to the because we undertook an inspection there also.”

Vaishali: Why did the government choose Erram Manzil, a building which has historical importance to destroy?

Anuradha Reddy: ​"Even today, if you go to Erram Manzil to study and assess, not so much of land is available in its vicinity. So, this becomes a real estate target, looked at as easily and immediately available institutional building which is in your hand. You then think that you are the owner, and you can demolish it. There is no proper traffic study being conducted. If you are an ordinary citizen who's travelling in that area between 5 pm and 10 pm, driving up and down the street will be stressful. The decision wasn't made on seeing the public stress, because the decision-makers are sitting in their vehicles, paving their way with policemen and whistles, smoothing the traffic. The heritage structures with open spaces and environmental structures, that the then Hyderabad city had given to this city has become attractive to demolish today. These are now the easiest to demolish because they feel that they're the owner, and therefore, they can."

Vaishali: People also believe that the heritage left behind by the Nizam is a constant reminder of the bad things that happened under the different Nizams' rule. Is it alright if one or two buildings go away? What is your reaction to this?

Anuradha Reddy: ​"Those who believe that the buildings remind them of a bad period should remember that they're using the road networks, rocks, hills, public gardens, open areas and drinking water facility contributed by the Nizam's Government. Beauty, practicability and comfort Nizam's, and I do not believe that people want to take one small stretch of history and keep blaming the Nizam. We have to put plus and minus together. The floods were alleviated after 1908 by building the and . Drainage was laid by Nizams. Today if it rains and floods, many areas do not have proper drainage. What is it that we do not enjoy, that we want to blame somebody? We need to recognise, be responsible and aware. We do not want to use political reasons for blaming the Nizam. We want to see the good things, the benefits and those that we enjoy."

Vaishali: Before we wrap up, what do you think anybody who's listening to this podcast can do to protect heritage? Not just Erram Manzil, but anywhere.

Anuradha Reddy: ​“If we want to live here, use the space, water, air, roads, it is very important that we take ownership, that we become protectors and a part of this environment. If we are paying taxes today in the city, it is ours. We have to take up responsibility. I do heritage visits with school children. They are in restricted spaces of concrete structures, with no playgrounds and space. You take children to Golkonda or Erram Manzil, apart from learning about history, they will have access to open areas, play space, space to run.”

Thank you for listening to this episode of ‘Beyond Charminar’. We hope the series will continue to engage you in understanding Hyderabad, and its vibrant history beyond the iconic Charminar. To know as and when an episode is released, do subscribe to our newsletter on www.sunoindia.in​.

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