PERTH Noongar People

PERTH Noongar people. Andamidstallthis,the city’sfabulousbeachesremain unchanged. research –hasatleastacknowledged indigenoustiestotheland.This isahugefeat forthe muscles inthesun.Asuccessfulnative titleclaim–althoughunderappealatthetimeof and they’re feeling damngood.They’re outeating,socialising,spendingmoney,flexingtheir withthebarbecue. boots,tinkering anddesert home, intheirboardshorts The streets were dead,there at Localswere wasnowhere justtoolackadaisical, toparty. this size, Perth issparselypopulated. of Australia forsome40km,andyoucanhave onetoyourselfonanygiven day–foracity the sand.The city’sfamousroyal-blueandchalk-white beachestrace thisoutermost point this isnothowPerth definesitself. tracks straddlethecityformiles.city andouttotheIndianOcean.Grasslandbike Yet squeaky-clean. The sleepySwanRiver –blackswansbobbingatopwindsitswaypastthe naturalbeautytoextremes.takes Boundedbypristineparkland,thestreets are curiously Planted byariver andalmost permanentlyhousedunderagreat bluesky,thecityofPerth Perth 52 © LonelyPlanetPublications Today it has all changed. Another mining boom has made young property ownersrich, Today ithasallchanged.Anotherminingboommadeyoungproperty When manyatraveller cametovisitinthe1990s,citywasdismissedas ‘dullsville’. andstretching outon isdownthebeach,tossingaroundunderclear oceansurf Its heart

HIGHLIGHTS

TELEPHONE CODE: 08 Dive indeepwiththe sharksatthe Relive historic break-outs atthe Cruise fromwinerytowinery,allafternoon Baskin thesunsetundercharming Scream yourheadoffatafootygame,clad at Dive intocrystal-clearoceansurf Crunchupsomecrispyhot fishandchips Stretch out onthelawn,glittering river and ( p85 long, inthesleepy Pines of Norfolk at in afootyscarf, Beach as youstrollaround Kings city belowyou,inthewonderlandthat is Fremantle Prison

), Fremantle

, Park Floreat (p62) or Cottesloe ( p81 ) Leighton Subiaco Swan Valley Fishing

Beach Oval

Beach Boat POPULATION: 1.4 MILLION Old ( p87) (p77) (p64)

Harbour ( p64 ) Aquarium ofWestern Australia City

Western Australia Aquarium of Fremantle Leighton Beach City Beach Floreat Beach Beach Cottesloe Kings Park AREA : 5,386 SQ KM (p63) Oval Subiaco Perth Swan Valley name ‘Swan’ontheriver. but notbefore hadbestowedthe deVlamingh they were north, unsuccessful.Sotheysailed Ridderschap vanHollant ofNoongar toinquire the aboutsurvivors someof Theytriedtocontact water the Bay. then marched eastwardtoariver nearFresh- landed nearpresent-day Beach, Cottesloe Island. On5January 1697awell-armedparty chored whatisnowknownasRottnest off an- commanded byWillemdeVlamingh ments neartheSwanBridge). bydiscoveriesyears (evidenced of stoneimple- ancestors canbetraced back some40,000 there.the first Europeanssettled Thetribe’s ofNoongar tribeforthousands years before occupiedbygroupsofbeen theAboriginal The site thatisnowthecityof Perth had lonelyplanet.com city centre. Immediately north of the trainline port, Fremantle. to thesouth andeast, linksPerth toits Swan River. The river borders thecitycentre The cityof Perth of liesalonga sweep the ORIENTATION harbours spiritthatbuiltit. thepioneering indigenous and proof rights, thatPerth still government, itwasahuge step forwardfor decision wasquickly appealedbythestate this people’s connectiontotheland.Though Perth Federal Courtrecognised theNoongar is theNoongarpeople. the In2006,however, image isagainthriving. other miningboom,andsothefrontier-town Today Perth isbackontrack, thankstoan- ofby aseries financialandpoliticalscandals. clean-cut, nouveau-riche image wastainted thecity’s In the1980sand1990s,though, (WA) hascontinuedtodrive Perth’s growth. building boom. over the following decadeandinitiated a mid-1880s increased thepopulationfourfold nies. Thatis,untilthediscovery of goldinthe behind thatof thecitie buildings were builtusingconvictlabour. alabourshortage.leviate Many of Perth’s fine 1850, whenconvictswere intoal- brought River Colony,butitgrew very slowlyuntil HISTORY Perth wasfoundedin1829astheSwan Even then,Perth’s lagged development In December1696three shipsinthefleet The train line runsalong the north of the excludedfromthisrace to richesLargely The mineralwealthof Western Australia s intheeastern colo- , lostin1694,but h .travellersclub.com.au; 137AWilliam St;perhrupto$2.50; decent rangeofcontemporaryliteraryfiction. Mall; books. leather loungesandabrazenchandelier. with Stacked outwith & Sat)Abigpolishedconcrete shelldecked St; Beaufort h .travelforever.com.au; 123-125WilliamSt;perhr$3; ( Sexual Assault Resource Centre’s crisis line crisis Centre’s Resource Assault Sexual roadsideassistance RACWA Police station Lifeline police Ambulance, fire, Emergency Planet Oxford StBooks Dymocks boffins upstairs. range includestravel.There’s awell-mannered stationof Hay St; Boffins Bookshop LanguagesBookshop All Foreign Bookshops INFORMATION Centre Map Perth Maps see bus andtaxi, p78 . for more informationontheairportshuttle, ontheIndianOcean. and Scarborough River. Thesuburbsextend westtoCottesloe Park, which overlooks thecityand theSwan with hostels. Tothewest,Perth toKings rises is Northbridge, abigentertainment enclave Traveller’s Club Traveller’s Forever Travel Internet Access Lonely Planetguidebooks. Travel books,foreign-language guides,phrasebooks, 9 ; section. andatravel ledgeable staff,great rangeoffiction Oxford St,Leederville; travel guides. 10am-4pmSat)FullThu, 9am-6pmFri, rangeofmapsand .mapworld.com.au; 900HaySt; % % The cityis10kmto13kmfromtheairport; 9am-7pm Mon-Thu, 9am-5pmSat& Sun) 9am-6pm Fri, 9am-6pm Mon-Sat,10am-5pm Sun) 9340 1828; h 9321 9275;101WilliamSt; h

Books ( 9am-5.30pm) WA travel section andmaps,plusa 9am-5.30pm) WAtravelsection (Map (Map pp58-9 ; % 9am-5.30pm) Boffins’technicalandspecialist h 13 11 14) Crisis counselling. 13 1114)Crisis (Map pp58-9 ; (Map (Map pp58-9 ; 10am-10pm Sun-Thu, 10am-12amFri h (Map (Map pp58-9 ; (Map (Map pp58-9 ; Mp pp56-7; (Map Mp pp58-9; (Map 24hr) Mp pp58-9; (Map h % 10.30am-10.30pm) Know- ( % 9321 3969;705-707HaySt % PERTH ••History PERTH % (Continued on page 62) h % ( % % 000) % 9328 7464;636-638 131 444; Beaufort St) St) 131 444;Beaufort h % % 9am-5.30pm Mon- 6267 0700;www 9322 1406; www 9443 9844;131 13 1111) 9am-5.30pm) 9321 5755;806 (Map (Map pp58- 9322 5733;www

53 PERTH PERTH ὈὈὈ

2 A B C D E F

Hillarys To Burns (10km); Yanchep GREENWOOD GREATERPERTH Boat Harbour West National Park (28km) SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp62–6) Leaf Tea Marchants...... 14 B5 Whiteman Park 54 WEST Warwick Rd Adventure World...... 1 C8 New Norcia Bakery...... 15 C3 5 SWAN Coast Dr Aquarium of Western Australia....2 A1 Peter's by the Sea...... 16 A2 Sorrento Beach MARMION 1 WARWICK Australasian Diving Academy...... 3 B5 WHITEMAN 1 71 Campaboutoz...... 4 C5 DRINKING ὈὈὈ(pp74–6) Caversham Wildlife Park...... 5 F1 Cottesloe Beach Hotel...... 17 A5 Beach Rd Watermans Beach Mar Royal Perth Showgrounds...... Beach Rd 6 B4 Ocean Beach Hotel...... 18 A5 4 HAMERSLEY mi on SLEEPING (pp68–71) ENTERTAINMENT (pp76–7) Marshall Rd Dr 60 Fremantle Village...... 7 B7 Camelot Outdoor Cinema...... 19 B5 Ocean Beach Backpackers & Challenge Stadium...... MALAGA20 B4

North Beach North Beach Rd Hotel...... Ave Mirrabooka 8 A5 Jazz Cellar...... 21 C3 3 MIRRABOOKA Reid Hwy Perth Central Caravan Park...... 9 F3 Beechboro Rd Hamersley Pool Sun Moon Resort...... 10 B2 SHOPPING (p77) Hamersley Swanbourne Guesthouse...... 11 B4 Garden City...... Reid Hwy 22 C6 ὈὈMitchell Fwy ὈὈὈ Golf Course Yirrigan Karrinyup...... 23 B2 Mettams Pool Lake KARRINYUP Gwelup EATING (pp71–4) Karrin Reserve Boatshed...... 12 B5 TRANSPORT Camboon Rd(pp77–80) Benara Rd Trigg Beach 23 Dr TRIGG STIRLING John St Café...... 13 B5 Mills Charters...... (see 2) 2 yup Rd 2

Marley Dr East Lord Rd Sackville Tce 2 Morley Dr Scarborough Beach 76 10ὈὈSCARBOROUGH 60 Ὀ Wanneroo Rd Walter Rd East To Swan Valley 16 Scarbor Grand West ough Promenade OSBORNE PARK Weap Beach Rd 4

Main St Main GUILDFORD Dr Walter Rd on 75 To Gooseberry Hill (10km); ess Zig-Zag Scenic Drive; Jon 55 Kalamunda National Park (15km) S a xander n MT HAWTHORN 51 ὅὅὅὅders I N D I A N Hale Rd INGLEWOOD BASSENDEAN

Rd 3 HERDSMAN 21 15 Ale 1 3 ὈὈὈ 94 O C E A N Herdsman Dr Beaufort St Edith CowanὅὅὅὅPearson St Lake Pde University University ay 53 9 Railw The Boulevard ὅὅὅὅ 75 Domestic Floreat Beach Lake LEEDERVILLE 55 Pde Guildford Rd Terminal CITY Herdsman Monger MT LAWLEY BEACH WEMBLEY GrandstandASCOT West Coast ὅὅὅὅ Vincent St MAYLANDS Rd Tonkin Dr Great Eastern Hwy

FLOREAT St Charles East Perth International Oceanic St Selby City Beach ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Terminal Maylands 94 REDCLIFFE Hwy Roberts Rd Peninsula Perry WEST Golf Course Hardey Rd Hwy Lakes Underwood Ave Hay St BELMONT PERTH Wellington St SUBIACO 1 Ave Brown 4 Rd St 4 Rochdale SHENTON BURSWOOD Abernethy Rd

Rd 20 PARK Stephenson way Kings Causeway Burswood Casino Park 4

SWANBOURNE Brock Aberdare Rd Miller Dr ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈSmythe ὈὈὈ

Bold Rd Heirisson Island

71 Park Alfred Rd Monash VICTORIA Horrie 11 6 Ave PARK

Melville CLAREMONT Pde Mill 4 Labouchere Rd Lake Carrington St Point Rd

Broadway Claremont Coode St Orrong Rd ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ5 ὈὈὈ KEWDALE To Perth North St Matilda Bay (Under International Swanbourne 3 French SOUTH EAST Consulate Tourist Park Beach 12 NEDLANDS PERTH VICTORIA Princess Rd PARK (3km) COTTESLOE See Perth Map (pp56–7) Edith Cowan Eric St University Const Kewdale Rd 5 18 Ave 5 8 13 Albany Hwy

ruct I N D I A N 17 The 14 DALKEITH Hay Tce ion) 1 m Welshpool Rd O C E A N PEPPERMINT Freshwater COMO an GROVE Pde 6 Curtin View Bay Kwinana 7 Marine Rd Jutland University QUEENS

19 Hill Ὀ Ὀ St Cottesloe PARK Point Resolution Canning Bridge Station BENTLEY Wharf St Beach Mosman S W A N R I V E R Pde Lochee St (Under Construction) Bay Kent Point Walter Fwy MOSMAN APPLECROSS Manning Rd CANNINGTON PARK Lucky Wellington St Bay MANNING

Leach Hwy Alfred Wichmann Rd Reynolds Rd Leighton Beach BICTON Cove Canning River

NORTH Rise 6 Ὀ Rd ὈWireless 6 FREMANTLE Preston Point Hill Park St ly EAST To Tumbulgum FREMANTLE 22 Farm (12km) Canning Hwy High Rd

See Fremantle Map (pp82–3) Willeri Dr 30

Bull Creek Station 7 (Under Construction) 1 5km 0 0

Marmion St Bull

Karel Ave

Leach Hwy North FREMANTLE Creek Ave Royal Fremantle

To Rottnest Lake Ὀ 1 Ὀ

Golf Club Dr Island (17km) 2

Rd Rd Yale Rd BULL

KARDINYA Vahland CREEK

13 Dr South St 7 Murdoch 13 7 SOUTH University Baile Rd Bannister CANNING VALE FREMANTLE MURDOCH

Stock Rd ch

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North Mur

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Nicholson Rd

Spe Ave 8 arwood 8 Forrest

SPEARWOOD 55

Rd COOGEE To Rockingham (20km) Yangebup Lake CTRY CITY 0 2 km

56 PERTH 0 1.0 miles 57

CITY CTRY

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A B C 3 D Salvado Rd St Rai s INFORMATION Miss Maud...... 36 D6 Luxe...... 75 F3 lway u Pd ft t West Leederville e o

All Foreign Languages Mont Clare Apartments...... 37 F7 Must Winebar...... 76 F2 S L

Bookshop...... 1 C6 Oneworld Backpackers...... 38 C4 Queens...... 77 F2 o i Subiaco Rd

a 8 Amex...... 2 C6 Pension of Perth...... 39 D2 Universal...... (see 70) t 1 St S d 21 Boffins Bookshop...... 3 C6 Perth City YHA...... 40 E6 C o Subiaco Sq e o 15 n H Rd City Dymocks...... 4 C6 Riverview on Mount Street...... 41 A6 ENTERTAINMENT (pp76–7) t ro West Subiaco

A C Job Centre...... (see 11) Royal Hotel...... 42 C5 Ambar...... 78 D6 v Rd Roberts Rd 65 s a t rt t W elhi S h e D i-City Information Kiosk...... 5 D6 Rydges Perth...... 43 C6 Amplifier...... 79 C5 be lli o e ngt R r on 11 i S Lifecare Dental...... 6 D6 Saville Park Suites...... 44 F7 Astor...... 80 F1 n York St t 17 e

Main Post Office...... 7 C6 Seasons...... 45 D6 Bakery...... 81 C4 19 S M

t u rray Shenton Park 14 Hay St St Perth Map Centre...... 8 B5 Witch's Hat...... 46 D3 Cinema Paradiso...... 82 C4 22

d Planet Books...... 9 F2 Connections...... 83 D5 R 10 16

ay Churchill Ave Royal Perth Hospital...... 10 E6 EATING (pp71–4) Geisha...... 84 C5 lw ai R t Travel Forever...... 11 C5 Annalakshmi...... 47 C7 His Majesty's Theatre...... 85 C6 S 5 t Aberdare Rd Barker St C S Travel Medicine Centre...... 12 B6 o m Balthazar...... 48 C7 Hoyts Cinema City...... 86 D6 a

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h t S u o l l Travel Recruitment Centre...... (see 14) Good Fortune Roast Duck Hyde Park Hotel...... 87 C2 a Netherlands e

n n Park St O i 6 l v Consulate 2 a o Travelex...... 13 C6 House...... 49 D4 La Bog...... 88 C4 S O H t rd C 12 St Traveller's Club...... 14 C5 Hong Kong BBQ Chinese Metro City...... 89 C5 H Bagot Rd

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Thomas St in R R g s P SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp62–6) Kakulas Bros...... 53 D5 Rise...... 93 C5 d a Hamersley Rd rk R Art Gallery of Western King Street Café...... 54 C6 Rosemount Hotel...... 94 D1 d Australia...... 16 D5 Matsuri...... 55 B6 Velvet Lounge...... (see 73) Beatty Park...... 17 B2 Maya Masala...... 56 C4 St Bicycle Transportation Must Winebar...... (see 76) SHOPPING (p77) 9 Salisbury Alliance...... 18 A4 Must Winebar...... 57 F2 78 Records...... 95 B5 Heytesbury Rd

Boat Torque...... 19 D7 Organica...... 58 C6 Form...... 96 C6 S 7

o See Central Perth Map (pp58–9) Cycle Centre...... 20 F7 Red Teapot...... 59 D4 Keith & Lottie...... 97 D4 i

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Oceanic Cruises...... 21 C7 Riverside Chinese Restaurant...... 60 D4 Periscope...... 98 C6 U

Perth Institute of Contemporary Soto Espresso...... 61 F2 Varga Girl...... 99 C6 R

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Perth Mint...... 23 F7 Taka...... 63 C5 TRANSPORT (pp77–80) y

Scitech...... 24 A4 Tarts...... 64 D3 Avis...... 100 F7 R d Mt Eliza

Supreme Court...... 25 D7 Tiger Tiger...... 65 C6 Bayswater Hire Car...... 101 F7 Reservoir e

Swan Bell Tower...... 26 D7 Viet Hoa...... 66 D4 Budget...... 102 B5 Nicholson Rd v A

Western Austalian Museum...... 27 D5 Welcome Inn Tea House...... 67 D4 Esplanade Busport...... 103 C7 e

a Ferries to South Perth, Fremantle, r F SLEEPING (pp68–71) DRINKING (pp74–6) Swan Valley, Rottnest...... 104 C7 2 War Billabong Backpackers Resort...... 28 E3 Belgian Beer Café...... 68 C6 Hertz...... 105 B5 Memorial Onslow Rd Britannia YHA...... 29 D5 Box Deli...... 69 B5 Long-Distance Coach Bookings Kings Lord Forrest Park Statue City Waters Lodge...... 30 E7 Brass Monkey...... 70 D5 Office...... 106 D5 e 4 v A Coolibah Lodge...... 31 D3 Brisbane...... 71 E4 Qantas...... 107 C6 p ro Governor Robinsons...... 32 D4 Deen...... 72 D4 Thrifty...... 108 F7 th in W Botanic Hotel Northbridge...... 33 D3 Flying Scotsman...... 73 F2 Traveller's Autobarn...... 109 C4 Garden Medina...... 34 D6 Grapeskin...... (see 70) Wellington St Bus Station...... 110 C5 Melbourne...... 35 B5 Hula Bula Bar...... 74 E7 Wicked Campers...... 111 C4 Kiosk ista Broadwalk V Old Swan 18 Brewery Restaurant

r r D D t n s i e k r y e r a 5 v o F w o k L al n W tio ra e ed INFORMATION t F es King Edward Memorial Hospital Lotteryw Swan Rd For Women...... 1 A2 Bay River ts n Kings Park Visitors Centre...... 2 D4 u e o Poole Av M SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp62–6) Surf Sail Australia...... 3 C1 Yoga Company...... 4 A2 Chez Jean-Claude ENTERTAINMENT (pp76–7) Ferry to Fremantle Yoga Space...... 5 D2 Patisserie...... 9 A3 Ace Subiaco...... 17 A1 Chutney Mary's...... 10 A2 Moonlight Cinema...... 18 A5 SLEEPING (pp68–71) Ecco...... 11 A1 Regal Theatre...... 19 A1 Outram...... 6 D2 Food...... 12 A2 Subiaco Arts Centre...... 20 A2 6 Fraser's Restaurant...... 13 D4 Subiaco Oval...... 21 B1 EATING (pp71–4) Rialto's...... 14 A2 Boucla...... 7 A3 Station St Markets...... 15 A1 SHOPPING (p77) Matilda Café Café...... 8 A1Bay Subiaco Hotel...... 16 A2 Indigenart...... 22 C2 PERTH Recruitment Centr Recruitment Books tours,hasa bulletinboard, andruns theTravel .trsaust.co.au; 137AWilliam St)Excellentresource centre. tours. run walking 12pm-4.30pm Sun)Volunteers answeryourquestionsand h 3 Forrest Pl; PostOffice Main Post Travelex Within theWestpacbuilding. Amex and branches of major banks intheCBD. exchange facilitiesattheairport andcitybanks, ATMs are plentiful.There are currency- Accessing Aussiedollars isstraightforward; Money Centre Medicine Travel Sq) InCBD. Hospital Royal Perth h Dental Lifecare % HospitalforWomen EdwardMemorial King Medical Services West Express hostels, hotels andtouristoffices. Your Free guidestoPerth include Media www.scoop.com.au www.perth.citysearch.com.au www.heatseeker.com.au Internet Resources 53) page from (Continued 62 Traveller’s Club Traveller’s Forever Travel InformationKiosk i-City Tourist Information Go West music information.Available incafésandrecord stores. runs theJob Centre ( p260 ). .travelforever.com.au; 123-125WilliamSt) Bookstoursand restaurants. international airport isopenSundays. international airport h ties throughoutWA,andseasonalwork. Mill St; Mill 8am-8pm) 9340 2222;347BagotRd,Subiaco) 9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Thu & Sat,9.30am-8pmFri, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)Thebranchatthe 9am-5pm Mon-Fri,

Australian

(Map (Map pp58-9 ; PERTH ••Sights PERTH Guide h Long-runningstreet ragandagoodsourceoflive Backpacker magazinewithinformationonactivi- Backpacker (Map (Map pp58-9 ; h 8am-5pm Mon-Fri)

8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pmSat) 8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to (Map (Map pp58-9 ; (Map (Map pp58-9 ;

(p260 ). e (Map (Map pp58-9 ;

(GPO; Map (GPO; Map Localnewspaperwithcinematimes. Perth &Fremantle, Perth % (Map (Map pp58-9 ; Entertainment. % 1300 132 639; 109 St Georges Tce) 1300 132639;109StGeorges

Mp pp58-9; (Map pp58-9; (Map (Map pp58-9 StMall; ; Murray 9321 7811;760HaySt; Gigguideandticketing. % % % 9221 2777;Forrest Chase; % 6267 0700;www Entertainment and Entertainment % 9322 1406; www What’s 9237 5460, 13 13 18; 9237 5460,1318; 9224 2244; Victoria 9224 2244;Victoria % available at 9321 7888;5

On Mp p61; (Map and red Central Transit (CAT)red Central bus tothe entrance to the visitors centre. Alternatively, catch the heading west alongStGeorges Tce (S-stand), restaurant.Frasers Nearby you’llfind akiosk,café,giftshop and Ave.opposite thewarmemorialonFraser year-round. Park Gardenare andtheBotanic available guided walks display of thestate’s famedwildflowers. Free WA. Inspringyoucanenjoyanimpressive tanic Garden which continuestothecity. tell thedriver ifyoudon’twantthefulltour, Pick-up isbehindthevisitors centre. Just as trams–thetouristtramtours thepark. if you’ve apenchant disguised forridingbuses Ave.Fraser Ifyourlegsare feeling weary–or Lord Forrest ontheroundabout Statue, nearthe Thewalkwaystarts It’s ahighlight. structure thatwinds over of stands eucalypts. 5pm) tion Walkway pride andjoy. playgrounds abound. Inshort, it’sthecity’s and picnicspots,lookouts,wildflowers and theland; ing andrunningtrackswindthrough clad gardeners andboffins, year-round; walk- iscarefullyexpanse tended byateam of khaki- Its4-sq-km,bush-filledSwan, dayornight. thebestviewsof thecityand affording the SwanRiver backuptotheinnersuburbs, Kings Park (MapKings Park p61 ) cutsaswathefrom Arts, isinNorthbridge. andthePerthseum Institute of Contemporary includes theArtGalleryof WA, the State Mu- are which intheCBD;CulturalCentre, (with afullbelly; p88 ). Many of Perth’s sights moreeven leisurely paceintheSwanValley River of ortheheights KingsPark, ortake an view buildingsandlandmarksfromtheSwan is best marriedwiththeoutdoors: Sightseeing SIGHTS anywhere inWA. resource for a trip 9.30am-4.30pmSat,noon-4.30pmSun)Agood 6pm Fri, Pl &WellingtonSt; % Centre Visitors Australian Western Kings Park Visitors Centre Park Visitors Kings To get here take bus37 (39onweekends), isthe170,000-sq-m Another highlight The architect-designed 1300 361351;www.westernaustralia.net; cnrForrest isabroad222m-long,glass-and-steel , withover 2000plantspeciesfrom

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(tree-top walk;admissionfree; (tree-top h 9480 3659; 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, 8.30am- h 10am &2pm)

Lotterywest Federa-Lotterywest ( h lonelyplanet.com (Map (Map pp58-9 ; 9.30am-4pm) of Kings h 9am- Bo- is pp58-9; pre-eminent artcollection.Theindigenous of achievement atthetop. toprovide climb demandingenough asense Rd,neartheAdelphiHotel, a Mounts Bay St fromthecityorclimbJacob’s from Ladder Park). Youcanalsowalkup(steep) Mount lock, ashortwalktotheentranceof Kings of KingsPark (stop26,orOrdStbefore Have- lonelyplanet.com (pee-kah). Thisgallery has longpromoted(pee-kah). commonly referred toby itsacronym, PICA admission free; tre, Northbridge; lives at performance, sculpture andvideoworks– Cutting-edge contemporary art–installations, Perth Institute of ContemporaryArts are worthwhile. Swallow. Thecoffee shopandgallerystore temporary piecesbyartistssuch asRicky including Fremantle andRottnest;con- works; landscapewatercolours of theregion, and SidneyNolan;otherAustralian historical by artistssuch asArthurBoyd,AlbertTucker of place. Pickett andChristopherPease –given pride works byJimmyPike, Rover Thomas, Shane Hillsand Warburton–includinging, Balgo worksfromFitzroy Cross- Western Desert artworks are of the gallery,with thehighlight 1pm Sun) 11am &1pmTue-Thu, 1pmSat,11pm & 12.30pm&2pmFri, free, exceptsomespecialexhibitions; admission .wa.gov.au; CulturalCentre, Northbridge; Perth Australia Founded in1895,the Art GalleryofWesternAustralia There are post-WWIIworks alsoimportant

See p72 forself-catering options. BEST PICNICSPOTS Esplanade Reserve ( EsplanadeReserve p83 ), Fremantle, for CityBeach( p64 fora ), nearthekiosk, HydePark ( p64 Perth, Vincent), North St Fraser Ave, Park Kings ( opposite ), just beachside picnicwithoutthesand side –idyllicandlow-key best views past theBaliMemorial,forcity’s restful pinesandlawnbytheharbour % , founded in 1895, houses thestate’s, foundedin1895,houses Perth Institute of Contemporary Arts ofContemporary Institute Perth

Mp pp58-9; (Map 9227 6144;www.pica.org.au; CulturalCen- Perth PERTH ••Sights PERTH % 9492 6600;www.artgallery Art Gallery of Western ofWestern Gallery Art h h 11am-6pm Tue-Sun) 10am-5pm, tours

(Map (Map , Or youcansimply dipyourhandsintothe ($105, withyour own gear; 1pmand3pm). of divemaster. the inhouse Bookinadvance sharks inthegiantaquariumwith thehelp playin theunderwater viewingarea.seals grumpy-looking octopus.Watch stingraysand venomous snakes, fish, theodd andeven sea agiantcylinder), billow, iridescent,through moonjellies(which dragons,seahorses, sea the state’s underwater treasures: intriguing ofyou. Aseries minimarineworldsshow off fish andsharksstealthily glideover thetopof water tunnelasgargantuan turtles,stingrays, Here a 98m under- youcanwanderthrough adult/child$24/$13; larys BoatHarbour,Hillarys; (AQWA; M Aquarium ofWesternAustralia Few willfailtobeimpressed bythis such asbiodiversity. programmes inschool holidaysonthemes centre discovery dren’s There isashady 1888 –onceafavourite spotforhangings. original durah, southof Perth. captured; nearMan- thisonebeached itself five of benigncreatures these have been ever shark withasoft, roundedhead.Onlyabout ‘Megamouth’, acurious-lookingspeciesof bath,is initsownpreservative courtyard, set mammal, butterfly andbirdgalleries.Inthe casts; agoodcollectionof meteorites; and and themore recent past;agalleryof dinosaur amines thehistoryof theindigenous people excellent ‘landandpeople’displaythatex- free; admission .wa.gov.au; CulturalCentre, Northbridge; Perth The Western AustralianMuseum ate worksannually. art,andexhibitsgradu- new andexperimental water, behind Hillarys shopping complex. 456 to Hillarys BoatHarbour. AQWA is bythe train toGreenwood thenhoponbus station, transfer to bus423.Onthe weekend, catch the lup train toWarwickInterchange andthen the Western stingaree. Jackson cucumbers and stars, sea shark,sea touch pool andget toknowguyslike theport floor of thegaolbuilding,aswell The museum complexalsoincludesPerth’sThe museum The daringcansnorkel ordive withthe To get here take theJoonda- onweekdays, h museum 9.30am-5pm, tours11am&2pm) ap gaol pp54-5 ;

Mp pp58-9; (Map , built in 1856 and used until, builtin1856andused % café 9447 7500;www.aqwa.com.au; Hil-

( , which runs popular h % lunch) 9212 3700;www.museum on theground includes an h 10am-4pm). 10am-4pm). aquarium chil- 63

PERTH PERTH PERTH Perth bytheriver. Clamber tothetopfor360-degree viewsof are knowntohave theonlyset leftEngland. WA bytheBritishgovernment in1988,and werefrom the14thcentury.These given to royal bellsof StMartin’s–in-the-Fields, dating of StJetty, Barrack the the towercontains noon-1pm Mon,Tue,ringing Thu,Sat&Sun). pp58-9; listen totheringingof the youreyesand thinkofClose Englandasyou Other Sights train station. erville fromLeed- and picnics.It’swalkingdistance and there’s plentyof grassforcricket, football circles thatlake track, isalsothelocaljogging cies reside here. Theflat3.5kmpaththat Anumberofgrounds, nonplussed. birdspe- swans andtheirducklingsplodaboutthe is where localbirdlife inspringblack meet: popular lunch stop. larger andoffer littleshade butare stilla pp58–9 ), which lookoutontotheriver, are lunch. Thenearby gardens andlawnthatmake agreat spotfor Barrack St) Northbridge. plenty of from shade. It’swalkingdistance palms, firs andMoreton figs–there’s Bay small lake, andthegroundsare dotted with onthelawn.Aflatpathtraces session a topspotforpicnicorlazybook-reading pp58–9 own character andpurpose. enjoyable parksandgardens,each withits green patch, butthere are anumberof other Kings Park ( p62 ) may bethecity’spremier Parks &Gardens 64 hosts achanging display of worksfrom one gallery.com.au; admission free; pp56-7; the small butactive a tour). own coinsandwatch goldpours (aspartof gold barworthabout $200,000,mintyour variety of coins,andyoucan stroke a12.54kg ling. Datingfrom 1899,themintshows offa noon Sat&Sun) Hay Sts;adult/child$9.90/4.40; 1pm Sat&Sun,goldpours hourlyweekdays&10am,11am The Monger Lake Gardens Stirling Located bytheidyllic river inEast Perth, PERTH •• Activities ••Activities PERTH % % Perth Mint Perth ) comprise lovingly comprise tended, pristine is oneof Perth’s mostexquisite parks, 9218 4540; 11 BrownSt;www.holmesacourt 9218 8183;adult/child$6/4; sounds staid butisoddlycompel- sounds staid

Mp p5– , n Wembley, in pp56–7), (Map

Mp pp58-9; (Map (Map (Map pp58-9 Tce& ; cnrStGeorges Supreme Court Gardens Gardens Court Supreme Holmes à Court Gallery Holmes àCourt h h Swan BellTower 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am- 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, % noon-5pm Thu-Sun) Hyde Park 9421 7277; cnr Hill & 9421 7277;cnrHill h Just north 10am-4pm,

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Adrift Learn to Surf Tours Learn toSurf Adrift ing swimming beach. set-up Beach the onshore windsmake thesurf rough. of HillarysBoatHarbour, ispatrolledbecause shoreline. path snakes thescrub, followingthe through paddlepool–andapaveda turquoise bike areas and barbecues–Mettams isalmostlike pp54–5 ). Uphere there are plentyof picnic Pool ming beaches: (ask alocal). and downthecoast,dependingon the weather surf canbefoundinpockets allthewayup is apopularyoungsurfers’ good spot,though beaches. And are alsosurf andLeighton tle), CityBeach is thenude(gay)beach. prone torips. surf beach thatisdangerous and whenrough mantle); and windy; (Map pp54–5 ), lesscrowdedbutsometimes with alawnarea andamenities; sunsets; and fantastic loe Beach theflags. rips –swimbetween beaches are withstrongundertowand rough and beach patrolling.Note thatmanycity forecasts andinformation about amenities of allthecitybeaches, includingweather website www.mybeach.com.au hasaprofile Beach Swimming&Surfing Run bytheSurf Life Saving Clubof WA,the ACTIVITIES St, where there isparking. cess thegalleryfromriver endof Brown tralia’s leadingcontemporary artworks.Ac- hands; theremainder includessomeof Aus- paintings byindigenous artistsinprivate indigenous, withthebestcanvasandbark 3000 artworks.About one-thirdof are these moretoday thecollectioncomprises than Robert HolmesàCourtinthe1970s,and bythelatestarted millionaire industrialist well astouringexhibitions.Thegallerywas of Australia’sfinestprivate artcollectionsas Watermans Beach Watermans To thenorthliesastringof excellentswim- There are a coupleof surfschools, includ- Beach Port Popular swimmingbeaches include surfschool Mp p5– ad and pp54–5) (Map , much further north,isyetanother well- Leighton Beach ( Map pp54–5 ), withcafés,pinetrees Sorrento Beach Sorrento (Map pp82–3 ; NorthFreman- . Trigg Beach Trigg com Scarborough Beach Swanbourne Beach North Beach North

( Mp p5– , pp54–5 ), (Map % (Map pp82–3 City Beach 6267 0700; perlesson $45)

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Stadium how todive. which hires outequipmentandteaches you Claremont; adult/child $4.50/$3.40) in Lancelin. cal fish so close toPerth,cal fishsoclose it’satopspotfor beaches intheworldandsomeof thebestsurf Here you’llenjoysomeof thecleanestcity Water Sports tour$95) surf one-day .adriftsurfing.com; lonelyplanet.com ing Perth hassome excellent50mpools,includ- to stroke somecoolwater,need through people $30) 7 ; South Perth foreshore –try oneof for hireto sail thecatamarans onthe course plusRottnestdive$525;without dive$375) .com.au; 3/142StirlingHwy,Nedlands;4-dayopen-water dive Academy companies, includingthe scuba divingandsnorkelling. There are many West Leederville). Pde, 260-262Railway 686 089;www.surfsailaustralia.com.au; windsurfers at and beaches northof Perth. Youcanhire windsurfers take totheSwanRiver, Leighton website www.seabreeze.com.au. and atthe bodyboarding. Check windspeeds surfing, kite-boarding, surfing(see opposite ) in thecountry.Itallmakes forgreat wind- cent St, Leederville; adult/child$4/$2.80) cent St,Leederville; minutes; hourly). bus 28 fromWellington St,Perth (about 20 super-sporty. Toget here, take westbound % If thewindhas kicked upandyou just It’ll take youfive minutes tolearnhow Because Rottnest isacoralreef withtropi- breeze blustersWhen theafternoon sea in, days. On weekends, route 85 takes over. route85takes days. Onweekends, Swanbourne Scarborough Fremantle. Some express trainsdon’tstopatNorth &LeightonPort over.takes Floreat Cottesloe City Beach No wheels?problem.The followingbeachesare allvery accessiblebypublictransport: BEACHES BY PUBLICTRANSPORT train stopsatCottesloe–someexpress trainsdon’t. Beatty Park 0408 926 003; Coode St jetty, South Perth; perhr2 0408 926003;CoodeSt jetty,SouthPerth; (Map (Map pp54-5

. Mp pp54-5; (Map Bus 84 from Wellington St; less than 30 minutes one-way. Buses leave hourly. On weekends, route85 Busesleavehourly.Onweekends, Bus84fromWellingtonSt;lessthan30minutesone-way. Cottesloe train station. About 20 minutes from Perth; trains leave every 15minutes. Checkthatyour trainsleaveevery Cottesloetrainstation.About20minutesfromPerth; Bus 81 or 84 from Wellington St, Perth. Thirty minutes one-way; buses leave every half-hourweek- busesleaveevery minutesone-way; Thirty Bus 81or84fromWellingtonSt,Perth. Surf

Swanbourne train station. Just under 20 minutes; trains leave every 15minutes. Swanbournetrainstation.Justunder20minutes;trainsleaveevery Bus 400 from Wellington St bus station. Forty minutes, one-way; buses leave every 15to20minutes. busesleaveevery minutes,one-way; Bus400fromWellingtonStbusstation.Forty Mp pp58-9; (Map PERTH ••Activities PERTH ; North Fremantle trainstation.Less 15minutes. than30minutesfromcity;trainsleaveevery North

% Sail % 9441 8259;Stephenson Ave, Mt

Australia 9389 5018;www.ausdiving

, favoured bythe Australasian Diving Australasian Funcats 9273 6080;220Vin-

Mp p61; (Map . Bothoperate and (Map (Map pp56- Challenge % 1800 , Fri-Sun). Leaves at12pm. Perth Fri-Sun). .oceaniccruises.com.au; adult/child $53/$27; 7210; 2 Delhi St, West Perth; permap$3.95). 7210; 2DelhiSt,WestPerth; and Sun. 5888; tours$53)Leaves at11amWed,Sat Barrack StJetty Rd; www.theyogacompany.com.au; persession $16) Hatha. Boat Torque whales singing. into thewater, sothatyoucantolisten tothe which islike amicrophonethat’sdropped west Australia. Millshasanewhydrophone, waters after wintering inthewaters of north- the humpbackwhale,asitreturns toAntarctic $65/$50) BoatHarbour;adult/child Hillarys .millscharters.com.au; with tember toDecember. Thethree-hour trip The runsfromSep- whale-watching season Whale-Watching Sat, 1-4pmSun) $25/$15; day/afternoon pp58-9; (Map Tohire these. also sell bikes, trythe Alliance Bicycle Transportation to pickupyourownhardcopies,popinthe www.dpi.wa.gov.au/cycling.see Orifyouwant and alongthecoast.Forcyclingroute maps, Swan River, runningallthewaytoFremantle, tracks. There are alsocyclingroutes alongthe the roads.KingsPark hassomegoodbike somedriversthough are stilllearningtoshare Cycling isanexcellentwaytoexplore Perth, Cycling Yoga The following outfitsrun yoga sessions: Yoga Oceanic Cruises Also recommended:

Company Mills Charters Mills isvery informative. isfor Thesearch % (Rottnest Express; Map (RottnestExpress; Map pp58-9 ; . (Map (Map p61 ; 9325 1176; 282 Hay St; mountain bikes per 9325 1176;282HaySt;mountainbikes (Map (Map pp58-9 ; h

Mp pp54-5; (Map 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, % 9388 6683; 136 Rokeby 9388 6683; 136Rokeby %

Mp pp58-9; (Map 9325 1191;www % 9246 5334;www Bike shops h Cycle Centre % Wed & % 9421 9420 65

PERTH PERTH PERTH Murray isthe left upIrwinSt.Atthecornerof Irwinand town hallinthecountry(1867–70). $14) Ashtanga. Arcade,1251HaySt;persession .com.au; Shop6,Seasons Government Cathedral ing downtheendof thestreet is brick buildingsof lazily over theroad,andyou’llpassred- and 1979.Furtheralongthestreet afigarches (4) restored Hay you’llfindthebeautifully andBarrack St.Atthecornerof downBarrack then right southeastupMurrayStMall, Bear your right. into thesquare. The Take yourfirst left,acrossWellingtonStand walkbridge).escalators (don’tcross thesecond of downthelastset newsagency, headright walkbridge Atthe towardsthetrainstation. Australia lery ofWestern outthefrontofCultural Centre, the views of thecityatopKingsPark. inthe Start It alsospansthenew,andtakes youtothebest This tourtraces some oldremnants of Perth. WALKING TOUR Yoga Space 66 Wander aroundVictoriaAve to the right ofthe right theDuxton. structure builtintheearly1970s–nestledto Hall , Perth’s fire headquarters 1900 between Continue southeastupHay St,thenturn Continue alongStGeorges Tce,with 19 Reservoir Mt Eliza ( Kings Park Ha PERTH •• Walking Tour ••Walking PERTH ve 7

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51 and technology exhibits. has over 160hands-on, large-scale science another option –especially ifit’sraining. It family favourite and,justsouth, Cottesloe There’s plentyof free kids’entertainment: PERTH FORCHILDREN on thefree red CAT busatHavelock St. across theoverpass toStGeorges Tce. Orhop St,andheaddownMountSt bout onCliff a snoozeonthelawn. and, further,variouslookouts.Perhaps have along tothearchitect-designed Memorial Bali Avefollowing Fraser into you’re attheendof St,headnorthwest, Cliff der underpass, andkeep aneyeoutfor north sideof theroadasitwindsunder one of Perth’s vaunted landmarks.Sticktothe for the work. RolldownMillSt(notsigned),straight foritsbrick- originally aschool andnotable lonelyplanet.com $14/9; adult/child Pde,West Perth; cnr Sutherland St&Railway ortheEsplanadeBusport. station 34 (tonorthof zoo)fromWellingtonSt bus catch bus 30or31(tofrontoferwise zoo) or from which thezoo iswalkingdistance. Oth- StjettytotheMendsfrom Barrack Stjetty, theferrysunshine bytaking acrosstheriver and areptile ‘encounter’ room. Enjoythe an Australianwildlife park,anumbatdisplay ing collections,includinganocturnal house, attraction. Thezoohasanumberof interest- $17/8.50/45; .wa.gov.au; adult/child/family 20Labouchere Rd,SouthPerth; Perth tralia Museum Australia Western of Perth’s big attractions –the and proudlydisplayedpoultry.And many family outing,allsideshowrides, showbags toOctober, isanever-popularSeptember Kings pp54–5 ) beach isfairlysheltered andshallow. out anyyoungkelpie. the river totire andthecoast,longenough ways thebike tracks( p65 ) thatstretch along walking tracksandgardens.Andthere’s al- the citycentre inSouthPerth, isaconsistent To return tothecity,go backtotherounda- Scitech The

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(17) Lad- is , from 565HaySt(nearBarrackSt)atleastfivetimes daily. Parktions –thecity,Kings andBarrackStjetty.Itdeparts mainattrac- youaroundsomeof Perth’s abus,takes actually .au; adult/child$24/10)Thishop-on,hop-offtram, whichis Northbridge. toursthatwindup withbeerin .au) Backpacker-happy a twilighttour. Swan Valley tours,buthasa strongerfocusonwine. Runs .outandabouttours.com.au) Followsasimilarthemeto .au) Food-driven toursthatcruiseuptheSwan. .au) Food-driven cookcruises.com.au) GoestotheSwanValley andFremantle. To Fremantle and Rottnest. Swan Valley Tours Out &AboutWineTours Oceanic City Captain Boat Big SkyTours tours, see p258 ; forsurftours, see p64 . see p94 ; forFremantle, p83;forstate-wide see see p92 ; for Shoalwater IslandsMarine Park, tors centres. Fordaytours toRottnestIsland, chures canbefoundinhotel lobbies andvisi- Organised tours of Perth abound.Tourbro- TOURS around thegroundsforfree. andwhip-cracking.Wander sheep-mustering can feed animals,milkcows,andcatch some Tumbulgum isabigdisplayfarmwhere you 6km southof ArmadaleonSouthWestHwy. sion free; farmshows adult/child$15/8; admis- farm.com.au; 1475SouthWesternHwy,Mundijong; to December,it’s18kmsouthofthrough Perth. waterslides. Opendailyschool holidaysand swings aroundinanarc,aswellpoolsand such as‘Bounty’sRevenge’, agiantboatthat agers, hasallthepalm-sweat-inducingrides Thu-Mon Sep-Apr) adult/child$39/32; Progress Dr,BibraLake; Gormley (who onceexhibited on adrysalt ‘Tentland’ forDJsand daiquiris. to town, withthepartypeople headingto the races, New Year’s Perth’s Daysees biggest dayatthe FESTIVALS &EVENTS Swan Valley. .com.au; adult/child$119/75)Operateslunchcruises tothe Adventure World Adventure Artists like Laurie Anderson,Artists like Antony Laurie Recommended tours: shirtanddriveSlip onagingham down Tumbulgum Farm

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, PERTH PERTH PERTH porary artsfestival. ber toNovember, isacutting-edge contem- in thehalls(there are 240 beds),butthefloor- predictable, andhasthatboarding-school feel YHA experienceatitsbest.Sure, it’salittle $75, non-YHA membersadd$5; bed dm$21,s$50,dwithoutbathroom$62,with bathroom www.yha.com.au; 300WellingtonSt;4-beddm$24,6-&7- o BUDGET City Centre hotels fiddlewiththeirrates daily. and thewide-openspaces. to itsproximity tochild-friendly attractions South Perth isagoodchoice forfamilies,due beaches fromthecitycanbetime-consuming. aspublictransporttotheor Scarborough, the beach, Swanbourne considerCottesloe, issimple. Ifyoucareand MtLawley mostfor out toinner-city suburbssuch asLeederville to allformsof publictransport,andhopping But theCBDandNorthbridgenoise. are close unperturbedby hostels, andisbestforthose carefully. Northbridge isoverpopulated with Perth isvery spread yourlocation out: choose SLEEPING Pride March. isinOctober,astheannual bian event, nocturnal. trip aroundthefestival, particularlyifyou’re the wholegamut.It’sworthscheduling your sical music,jazz,contemporary art,dance– and February, theprogramspans theatre, clas- Heldlocal talent. inJanuary weeks forseveral Festival form attheannual withhispiano)per-once tooktothedesert, lake nearKalgoorlie) andPhilip Glass(who 68 trips outof town (the busport’s metres away). Royal Hotel iswell-placed forearly morning A creaking, character-filled historicbuilding, and twinroomsalso available. have brand-spanking-new ensuites. Family the bestbitis bathrooms:halftherooms City YHA isin aquieter partof town.Perhaps 1940sartdecobuilding,Perthwell-preserved paintedthe brightly roomsstillsmellnew.Ina boards gleam–andcharmingly creak –and bathroom $54-60, d$87-98,without bathroom$65-70; -hotels.com.au; cnrWellington &WilliamSts;s$70,without Note thatmanymidrange andtop-end Prh Pride Perth Royal Hotel PERTH ••Sleeping PERTH (www.perthfestival.com.au) (www.perthfestival.com.au) Perth CityYHA Perth

(www.pridewa.asn.au) Mp pp58-9; (Map Artrage UWA Perth International Arts Arts International UWA Perth

(www.artrage.com.au) Mp pp58-9; (Map %

is 9481 1000;wentpert@fc alongside thetop , a gay andles- ) Thisisthe % 9287 3333; ,

Octo- a ) white linen and duck-egg-blue covers). But rooms thatare bigand fresh-feeling (think isalarge hotelSeasons with newlyrefurbished proudly in theeastern pocket of theCBD, 37Pier St;d$160; ofperth.com.au; rooms facingMurray Stcanbenoisy. pretentious 1st-floor though andcomfortable, buzzing withoffice workers. Roomsare un- dining room,and apolished barandcafé Insideyou’llfindastylishand serious desert. pub perched on theedges of thered-dust around thebuilding–recalls themining-town corrugated-iron balcony that wraps the deep the gold-rushera,itsfaçade–particularly modern-day heritage-listed hotel. Builtin Sts;dfrom$150; hotel.com.au; cnrHay&Milligan Melbourne TOP END feed agoatherd. gasbords (from$40perperson) are to enough they’re Thesmor- bigger andwellmaintained. rooms. TheScandinavian roomsare best,as vourite thingsin thealpinemuralsanddainty The Anyone withalove of Scandinavia, kitsch or &Pier.missmaud.com.au; cnrMurray Sts;dfrom$139; views, are quieter. back, which have gardenratherthanriver ifbedsareeven afew years old.Roomsatthe minimalist café.Roomsare sunnyandsimple, neatly atopthemodernfoyerandrelaxed, ai 42MountSt;dfrom$95; 8963; www.riverview.au.com; views existbutare tosecure. difficult and theriver. Topfloorroomsare best;river is top-notch you –nothingcomesbetween filled, ifsimple,andthewaterfront location friendly lassatreception. Roomsare light- the carpark,railingsare rickety, andthere’s a City Waters isanold-school motel: roomsface .citywaters.com.au; 118Terrace Rd;s/d/ffrom$82/90/135; City MIDRANGE single roomshave atticlike roofs. enettes andcanebedheads.Cute butmodest Family roomsare butnoisy,withkitch- light Classic countrycharm this waftsthrough block. Itsrefurbished 1960sbachelor padssit outasthebestpersonalityview stands onthe here onMountSt,butcharacter-filled River- Miss Maud Miss Seasons Seasons onMount Street Riverview

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Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com .savillesuites.com; 201 Hay St, Perth; 1-/2-bedroomaptfrom .savillesuites.com; 201HaySt,Perth; .com; 32 Outram Street, West Perth; s/dfrom $295/335; .com; 32Outram Street, WestPerth; do yourownthing.It’sallabitchalk-white cordoned off discretely –theyleave youto private.cious and,notably, Even reception’s unfussy, MontClare’s apartmentsare spa- 1-/2-bedroom aptfrom$170/190; 190Hay St, EastPerth; www.montclareapartments.com; inPerth). (notalwayseasytoobtain light Sttend tohaverooms onBarrack more natural ing. Allone-bedrooms have balconies,and sized hotel roomsare minimalistyetwelcom- apartment- It’s allcometogether nicely–these erally pretending tobeasharp-eyed traveller. own rooms,handpickingthefurnishings,gen- conducted extensive research, inhis staying the Medina’s roomswere designed,theowner .com.au; 138BarrackSt;studio/d$161/195; signal thanothers. floor, andsomeroomshave abetter wi-fi so besure fromthe8th toask.Viewsstart not allroomshave refurbished been justyet, lonelyplanet.com quietly nestled among the small office blocks quietly nestled among thesmall office style –anolive-green pitched-roof building the Outram is,withitsunderstated European Blink and you’llmiss it.That’show discreet catches. donnay andlocal deep-sea with free-runningitself Margaret River Char- The light-filled CBD restaurant-bar busies all funretro withaflashof 1970s California. matt-coloured linens,attention It’s todetail. newbeds,white-stylish: comfortable and areThe rooms,happilyenough, massive and your robeandwatch theworldfromuphigh. windows here are get thereal into highlight; $195; &HaySts;dfrom cnrKing 1800; www.rydges.com/perth; up somelocalrocklobster here. good-sized benches –plentyof roomtochop are roomy,withlaundries,dishwashers and anonymityeschewed. Apartments served, River isrelaxed andfriendly. Privacyispre- Tuscan-orange structure totheSwan close Instead,factory, butsomehow this itdoesn’t. easily feel like amassive, faceless apartment this isnomodestbuildingblock.And itcould $185/210; longerDiscounts forstays thansixnights. a coolandrestful spot.Fullyself-contained. and plain,butinsummerthepoolmakes this Medina Medina Mont Clare Apartments Apartments Mont Clare Outram Rydges Perth Saville Park Suites a as )

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cheap eatsjustuptheroad.Dormsare good of Northbridge, withsome of thearea’s best This isano-frills backpackers inthecentre heart of youranswer. theaction,Britannia’s are very doublesaren’t goodvalue,though iana muralsalong thewalls.Well-kept dorms tolife(about 150beds), brought byAustral- 23, d$65; St;dm$20- 381Beaufort 7720; www.billabongresort.com.au; there’s abusyvibeabout theplace. like are ashearer’s friendly,and Staff canteen. the kitchenvalue, though is,admittedly, abit i .com; 253WilliamSt;dm$19-22,s$35,tw& dfrom$50; Britannia BUDGET up tosnuff. putting yourmoneydown–someare not sible towalkaroundandinspectroomsbefore There are somanyhere, infact,thatit’spos- Most of Perth’s hostels are inNorthbridge. Northbridge &Around indulgence. intheknowratherthanout-and-out for those hide apony.Thisismore switched-on luxury to andspasbigenough linens, flat-screen TVs, shower) have king-sizedbedsdrapedinwhite (including thebathroom,withawalk-through of WestPerth. Super-stylish open-planrooms 56; St;dm/s $21/41,d$52- 194 Brisbane .coolibahlodge.com.au; down. the sungoes get together forsoccerandmore beers when hours whenit’stoo coldtoswim–and –even gals conglomerate around Billabong’s poolall quite asgoodadeal. Beer-clutching boys and homes, Coolibah Lodge and is comfortable

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sure before toinspect layingdowncash. per week,foraminimumoftwoweeks. Be two fornotmuchmore than$200to$300 be abletorent afullyfurnishedroomfor http://au.easyroommate.com. Youshould eller’s ClubandTravel Forever ( p53 ) and scene. CheckthebulletinboardsatTrav- larly, andaffordsabreak fromthehostel nomical option,ifyou’re acoupleparticu- Sharing ahousewithtravellers isaneco- LONG-TERM ACCOMMODATION ai ) Ifyouwanttolaunch intothe yourself is

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69 PERTH PERTH PERTH .pensionperth.com.au; 3ThrossellSt;s/dfrom$115/145; .pensionperth.com.au; Pension MIDRANGE Kids retire at10.30pm. and there’s a red-brick barbecuearea outback. Dorms are anduncommonlyspacious, light front, beckoningthecurioustostep inside. Edwardian turret) proudlyoutthe stands gingerbread andthewitch’s hat(an house, could bemistaken fora The buildingitself Witch’s Hat issomething outof afairytale. .witchshat.com; 148Palmerston St;dm/d$23/64; bathrooms are areal hit. snug. AndthesparklingnewFederation-style a treat. Dormsare fresh andclean,ifalittle parents’ place–andthegas-topstove works –abitlikelight cookingatyourrich friend’s B&B thanabackpackers. Thekitchen’s ahigh- (chesterfields, floorboards)ismore like acosy this smallandbeautifullyfurnished hostel from $60; 3200; www.govrobinsons.com.au; 7RobinsonAve; dm$22,d quiet atnight. thing provided, andthehostel tends tobe kitchen islarge andfunctional,withevery- and sunny,ifalittlemessysometimes.The restored andthedormsare oldhouse, big inalltheroomsofbeam brightly thisnicely Polishedfloorboardsbeautifully maintained. packers clean,green onaninheritance: and $22/58; 162AberdeenSt;dm/d www.oneworldbackpackers.com.au; of agoodstandard. Dorms are tidyifabitpokey, anddoublesare real backpackers vibeinhere –nopretence. est hostels ontheblock,actually,sothere’s a homely butnothingfancy.It’soneof theold- 70 country. It’snot thehippest kid inthecity, but ai St;dwithspa$120-140; 210Lake .hotelnorthbridge.com.au; Park, which isgorgeous. the back.Andit’s acrosstheroadfromHyde look outontothe park;thesparoomisround smallbathrooms) bay windows(and slightly old French walnutbedhead. Twodoubleswith gold-framed mirrors. There’s a100-year- even lounges, rich floralrugs,openfireplaces and the-century stylelaysluxuryonthick: chaise ais star attraction for couples and folks fromthe star Hotel Witch’s Hat o Oneworld PERTH ••Sleeping PERTH ) i Hotel Northbridge the has longbeen

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Mp pp58-9; (Map % % 9228 4228;www 9228 9049;www 9328 5254;www % 9228 8206; ai % 9328 ) on deep-blue twill carpets, all set off byplum- on deep-blue twillcarpets, allset deco building tolife. white linensrest Stark and contemporary furnishings bringthisart- Inside,smart, playfulcolours Beach. Cottesloe $180/340; St,Cottesloe; d/f Pde&Eric www.obh.com.au; cnr Marine fromthebeach.highway minimalistrooms.Justacross the otherwise ing underbare furnishings adorn feet. Batik and theterracotta-tiled flooris coolandpleas- in thepondbelow. Theroomsare enormous, shady palmswhilebright-orange carp splash nicely. Wood-slatted pathwaysleadyouunder butthe twoworktogetherin Scarborough, resortBali-style makes anunlikely friend d $126-198,2-bedroomste$176-226; www.sunmoon.com.au; 200WestCoastHwy, Scarborough; sun-filled room. ing more thanthebirdstwittering fromyour you’llhearnoth- from SwanbourneBeach, a leafyresidential street, 20minutes’ walk d $95) www.swanbourneguesthouse.com.au; 5MyeraSt,Swanbourne; Swanbourne Guesthouse MIDRANGE &TOPEND things slow. onthebeach andhappytotake focused those sothisisbestfor from thecity(thebusdoes), comeuphere thetrainlinedoesn’t However, andthedormroomshaveclose), oceanviews. (nootherhostelthe sand inPerth gets this tothebeachtel. you’re It’ssoclose almoston $63) Cottesloe; 6-/8-beddmwithbathroom$21,d St, Pde&Eric cnrMarine http://oceanbeachbackpackers.com; Ocean BeachBackpackers BUDGET Cottesloe, Swanbourne&Scarborough older complex. strollsalongtheriver.and sunset It’saslightly riverside location,perfect forlazyferry rides (no laundry,nooven) itmakes upforwithits ai Esplanade;1-/2-bedroomste$135/165; .net; 53SouthPerth Peninsula South Perth that’s pretty goodvalue. Considering it’sintheheartof Northbridge, singleroom–andkeptevery thepricesdown. a recent refurbishment hasdroppedaspain Ocean Sun This is not just a big, bright, surfie hos- This isnotjustabig,bright, Peace andsolitude are thekey here. Off

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Beach Mp p61; (Map ) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Theonly boutique-stylehotel on

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Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com backpackers are rooms.These justasimple of accommodationoptions,includingcheap point.It’sbig,withplenty a passing-through the city,ismore of aholidaycomplexthan ais sites for2$33-$35,studiorooms$56,1-bedroomcabins$120; 186 HaleRd,Forrestfield; unpowered sites for2$30,powered spottostop. enough a pleasant sites are conveniently toamenities.It’s close bedrooms are alittleolderbutnotpokey. Tent one-bedroom chalets are functional;thetwo to the city,isclosest as unpowered/powered sitesfor2$30/32,cabins$95; 34CentralAve,1704; www.perthcentral.com.au; Redcliffe; Park Caravan Central Perth Greater Perth like onebigLSD-driven shrinetothesea. arefrom thehallway,allyousee waves. It’s Rooms are diningarea; big,withaseparate coloured cushionsandblond-woodchairs. lonelyplanet.com worth thetwist down thelaneway. Slices of and antique-style wooden chairs –the food’s the polished concrete floor,communal table, just good looksandgood cheer in here, with idioms?). It’sacovetednese spot. Andit’snot ing thesourceof thecafé’s name(Blake? Chi- on theirlaptopsin thiswi-fi hotspot, ponder- & lunch) St;mains $6.50-$8.50; signedoffMurray Mews, Tiger, CAFÉS City Centre by about$15perbottle. a lotof restaurants domarktheirwinelistup will continue. for$8.No doubtthistradition bloating laksa get acracking cha kwayteow for$7orabelly- especially inNorthbridge, where youcanstill value mealshave available, longbeen too, Subiaco andtheSwanValley. Butcheap, top- Nedlands, and isnowthrivinginMtLawley, aroundforawhile, dininghasbeen Serious oftables thecity’sbestrestaurants andcafés. trucked intoPerth androlledoutontothe Every day,thefinestregional produceis EATING public pooluptheroad. balconies tolounge about on.There’s ahuge spot torest your head,butdohave bigsquare Perth International Tourist Park Tourist International Perth BYO iswidelyaccepted (butcheck ahead);

Tiger ) Young bespectacled bloggers away Young bespectacled tap Thissmallcaravan park,8kmeastof ) Thiscaravan park,15kmoutof (Map (Map pp58-9 ; PERTH ••Eating PERTH % Perth. Therefurbished 9322 8055; shop 4, Murray 9322 8055;shop4,Murray

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and cardamom desserts cleanse thepalate. cleanse and cardamomdesserts ries andfragrant dhal. Chilledcoconut-milk cur-line upforspicy potato-and-pumpkin donation. Assorted hippies andotherlocals baby-boomers, inthemain)andyoupayby runbyvolunteers (formidable curry house is notouristycashcow:Annalakshmi isa and thecity–decidedlyromantic. Butthis in the360-degree viewsof theSwanRiver pay bydonation; 4,BarrackSt,behindBell Tower; .annalakshmi.com.au; Jetty o RESTAURANTS withportcustard. rhubarb parcelsserved sive like menu,includingdesserts appleand drank espresso. Great winelistandexpan- only immigrantsandwell-travelled types a crucialroleincreating acaféculture when played cially calledNo44KingSt,thisstalwart St; mains$18.50-33; hazelnutsandcoconut.Itallworks. seeds, fresh greens; hotchocolates comewithsesame ($17.80) is enough to feed two salarymen. tofeed two salarymen. ($17.80) isenough good asever. Thetempura udonwith sushi set consistent Perth favourite, andtodayit’s as Japanese restaurant. Matsuri a haslongbeen ceiling glass runstheperimeter of thislarge a bitlike here acarpinfish tank –floor-to- Sts; mains$13-20.80; It’s allgoodfun. pieces of kangaroo,home-spunchutney and bread asthickyourarmattempt toclasp King Street café Street King Matsuri Matsuri say so. If youjustwantastainofmilk,besure to macchiatos withmilkasamatter ofcourse. Many and longcoffee shopstopup short

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Mp pp58-9; (Map lunch Mon-Fri, dinner) lunch Mon-Fri,

Mp pp58-9; (Map breakfast, lunch&dinner) – a % – a pilgrimage 9322 7737; cnr Hay & Milligan 9322 7737;cnrHay&Milligan secret – a relaxation form % % 9321 4476; 44 King 9321 4476;44King 9221 3003;www You’llfeel Take Take Offi-

71 PERTH PERTH PERTH piled withberries,applesorlime curd; rich like tempura, udonandsushi (ten piecesfor forward Japanese eatery whipsoutstandards on weekends. country style,inthecity.Packed like ahamper glazed strawberries.Tarts isgoodfoodand stacked with tarts minicustard sourdough; tumblingoff thicklyslicedscrambled eggs $9.90, lunch$7-14; Tarts CAFÉS Northbridge healthful bites. hand-made rollsandplentyof otherquick, freshlyout fantastic orange squeezed juice, is anorganic-produce specialistthat turns Down theHay Stendof Shafto Ln,Organica at lunchtime (butmove fast). whereand Barrack, linesrun20metres long another branch onthecornerof Wellington $6). Takeaway andsushi packstoo. There’s mains $6.50; Taka QUICK EATS phere’s notsnotty. about foodandwinehere buttheatmos- strawberries gracethemenu.They’re serious fort tempura, andfenugreek bruléewith fresh twist. Dishes like witlof, caramelised Roque- refreshingly original,withastrongEuropean –it’s closely The menu’sworthobserving restaurant tucked awayontheEsplanade. the NewYorkbistrointhislow-lit,discreet Mon-Sat, lunchMon-Fri) $13.50; & theEsplanade;mainsfrom$26,desserts 72 Organica Balthazar with dirt-cheap legumes,nuts andolives. with dirt-cheap brioche and baguettes. brioche and bread. drinks produce, soft Below we’ve listed thepickofcrop. SELF-CATERING Station St New Kakulas Kailis City Chez Boatshed producers selleggs,avocados, spinach,beef,coffee andjuice. About20stalls.

Mp pp58-9; (Map PERTH ••Eating PERTH Mp pp58-9; (Map

Farm

Norcia Bakery Norcia Bakery Jean Mp pp56-7; (Map h

Bros (Map pp58-9 ; (Map

(Map (Map pp58-9 ; train-stationendofBrownSt,EastPerth;

Mp pp58-9; (Map - Mp pp54-5; (Map Markets Markets Claude lunch &dinnerMon-Sat) (Map (Map pp58-9 ; h % % breakfast &lunch)

Patisserie h 9324 1234; shops 5 & 6 Shafto Ln; 9324 1234;shops5&6Shafto There’s adistinctfeel of 9328 6607; 212 Lake St;breakfast 9328 6607;212Lake (Map (Map p61 ; Subiaco Markets; Mp pp54-5; (Map % % 9443 6300;101Oxford St, Leederville) % 9321 0345; Shop 3B Shafto Ln) 9321 0345;Shop3BShafto 9421 1206;cnrSherwoodCt % 9284 5176;40JarradSt, Cottesloe) (Map (Map p61 Rd; ; 333Rokeby 9328 5744; 183 WilliamSt; h Thisstraight- Massive tarts 9443 4114; 163 Scarborough Beach Rd, Mt Hawthorn) Perth’s bestbread. 9443 4114; 163 ScarboroughBeach Rd, MtHawthorn)Perth’s h dinner h Thu-Sun) Cheaper fresh produce. Nomeat. h & dinnerWed-Mon) feel. onMondaynights. Busyeven ing upthebeamsgives theplaceanoff-beat soup).Greenery creep- (beef-and-rice-noodle the fresh rice-paperrollsandtop-notch restaurantVietnamese –oryou’llmiss outon by thebare-bones ambience of thiscorner St; mains$8-16; chicken andchilli squid. salt favouritesChinese like fragrantprosperous busy withdiners enjoyingstylishlyexecuted lunch &dinner) St; mainsfrom$7.90,noodles$8.90-$10.90; is superb. The intown. vibe, isamongthebestCantonese ing, smallrestaurant, withthefamily-run $7.50-$12; % a half-serve. duck isonlyabout $17,andyoucanaskfor crammed withoptions.Anentire boneless duck andnoodles–thefrontwindowis family-sized feeds of barbecuepork,roast like beinginChina. Locals charge infor % feeling grounded. The 1970sdecorandtiledfloorwillkeep you goreng, rendang curry,oralittlegadogado. a taste of home,whetherthey’re craving nasi this littleeatery of isfilledwithlocalsin search Perfect onasparrow-sizedbudget, for those from $5.50;dinner$6; Sparrow RESTAURANTS h

Big fresh seafoodsupplier. Viet Good Red Hong 6am-6.30pm Mon-Fri) Lineupwiththelocalsfor 6am-6.30pm Mon-Fri)

9228 3293;344WilliamSt;mainsfrom$6; Mon-Sat) Ramshackle provisions store overflowing provisions store overflowing Mon-Sat) Ramshackle 9228 3968; 76 Francis St; noodle soup $8, rice dishes 9228 3968;76FrancisSt;noodlesoup$8,rice Enormous upmarket shed stacked withfresh shedstacked Enormous upmarket san h

Teapot

Hoa Mp pp58-9; (Map Kong

until 12pmSat&Sun)Local organics Fortune choy h

Thisintimate restaurant isalways lunch &dinnerThu-Tue) Mp pp58-9; (Map

h BBQ

Mp pp58-9; (Map bow, Thisisthereal thing–just

lunch &dinner) Roast

Chinese % peppered withroastduck, h 9228 2238;434AWilliamSt;lunch

Duck lunch Fri &Sat,dinnerMon-Sat) lunch Fri %

% Restaurant 9328 2127;349William

9228 1981;413William Don’tbefooled House lonelyplanet.com Thiswelcom-

Mp pp58-9 ; (Map Mp pp58-9; (Map h h Mon-Sat lunch pho

inner-city dads,ladies crowd–stay-at-home Soto opensoutontothestreet, welcomingits The lime-green banquette isagreat spotto who lunch andshop, bleary-eyed students. Soto Espresso CAFÉS Inner-City Suburbs Chinese. Banquets(forten)$28ahead. mains $15-20; Joy Indian. Francis Sts;mains$13-16; Maya Wed-Mon) AuthenticChineseandcheapdimsum. 1688; 74FrancisSt;mains$7-15; Riverside 354 WilliamSt; Welcome lonelyplanet.com kitchen. Itsure is: asparagus withcauliflower that cutting-edge food’s coming out of this red flourishes andcanary-yellow beamssignal are pristine, andit’squiet.Inside, fire-engine- metres fromtheriver’s edge. Thesurrounds high-backed chairs sit outontheveranda, Tue-Sun, dinnerWed-Sat) mains$18-38; East Perth; of apple, are parforthecourse. with thinslices some duckprosciutto served withhotchocolate orperhaps sauce), served wine and dessert Duende,whereat sleek glassof alate-night up long listof isserved modern-twisted tapas tapas$9-17; Leederville; Duende RESTAURANTS crate outfront,andletthedayslipby. Elbow yourwayintoabooth,or pullupa andspinachcheese –comesrecommended. avocado, tomatoes, pesto, semisundried copy of Slicesof toastaregraffiti. as thick asyour There’sexpectant. alittlehome-drawn even jam andlemonbutter rest onthebench-top, posters are plastered over onewall.Bigjars of sandwiches $7.50; hangover. Openlate. any sandwich) willtackle cheese-and-ham rather large watch allthecomingsandgoings, breakfast $4-10,lunch$8.50; Also recommended: Lamont’s Oxford

Garden

Masala

Infinite Mp pp56-7; (Map

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h Mp pp54-5 ; (Map (Map (Map pp58-9 ; h

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croque % Mp pp56-7; (Map h dim sum&dinnerWed-Mon)Top-rate

dim sum) Good for no-fuss yumcha. dim sum)Goodforno-fuss Jest, PERTH ••Eating PERTH

9227 7686; 507 Beaufort St,MtLawley; 9227 7686;507Beaufort Restaurant churros 6am-midnight)

% andtheNo22sandwich– h - White tablecloths and h monsieur h (Map (Map pp58-9 ; % h 9228 0123;662NewcastleSt, 6pm-late, latelunchSun) % % lunch &dinner)Southern

breakfast Sat&Sun,lunch (Spanish doughnuts (Spanishdoughnuts 9227 8638;65FrancisSt; 7am-midnight) 130 Oxford St, Leederville; 130 OxfordSt,Leederville; h 9202 1566;11BrownSt, 9328 5655; cnr Lake & 9328 5655;cnrLake (Map (Map pp58-9 ; Artandmusic dim sum&dinner (afancyfried % 9227 8886; Modern % 9328 A fort St,MtLawley;mains$29.95-36.50; fort tion. Themenuspansdishes like crispypork dining roomthatenjoysanexcellentreputa- long-established ing menu.Thisisaserious, top diningexperiences:NealJackson’s tast- and wine,don’tdenyyourself oneof Perth’s Eastern–inspired denof artworks sheeshes, action, butthat’s agoodthing.ThisMiddle tle isolated fromthethickof theRokeby Rd Ave, Park; Kings mains$31-39; pean-style dishes like beef-cheek ravioli with pean-style dishes like beef-cheek restaurant, andagreat oneatthat,withEuro- is probably Perth’s bestwinebar. It’salsoa h on theIllycoffee thanthefood. to-earth, unfussyspotwhere thefocusismore thisisadown- from theSubiacotrainstation, consider itscoffee thebestinPerth. Metres as somesortof shrine tothebean–many lunch) St; breakfast $7.50-$10.90,lunch$7.50-$9.90; Café CAFÉS Subiaco fort mash. steakwagyu beef withceleriacand Roque- appleandsage, orbelly withcaramelised wine $140; mains$32-46,9-coursetastingmenu$95,with St, Highgate; chicken confit.It’sabigspace. like chargrilled rocklobster andMtBarker a goodnameforyears –ModOzstandards hasenjoyed is unrivalled.Andthefooditself the glittering SwanRiver, location Fraser’s Atop KingsPark, overlooking thecityand of SauvignonBlanc. you’re obliged toatleaststopinhere foraglass redbraised cabbage. Ifyou’re justinthearea, wild-mushroom crème orduck-legconfitwith is off BrownSt,bytheriver. verde –itallchanges Access withtheseasons. Pemberton marronwithmesclunandsalsa andSturgeonpannacotta caviar, butter-grilled platters $69, morning or afternoon tea$7.90; platters $69,morning orafternoon are great too. roast vegetables plates. spilloff Thesalads huge filledwith blue-vein tarts and cheese smileatyou fromthecorner,andsweets and craftsisalocals’ secret. Honey-sticky Boucla Jackson’s Food Fraser’s Restaurant Must breakfast &lunchMon-Sat)

Café Locals speak longingly about Café Café Café Locals speaklonginglyaboutCafé

( Winebar %

( ( % % (Map (Map pp58-9 ; 6380 2000; 151a Rokeby Rd; mains$14, shared 6380 2000; 151aRokeby dinner Mon-Sat) 9388 9800;Shop20,SubiacoSq,29Station 9381 2841; 349 Rokeby Rd; 9381 2841;349Rokeby

Mp pp58-9; (Map

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% h Ifyoulove finefood Boucla maybea lit- % 9328 1177; 483 Beaufort 9328 1177;483Beaufort breakfast, lunch&dinner) % 9328 8255;519Beau- h 9481 7100;Fraser noon-late) h h

mains $12; lunch Mon- breakfast & This 73

PERTH PERTH PERTH The vibe’scolourfulandcasual. favourites like malaikofta anddalmakhani. huge, andmuch of tovegetarian it’sdevoted dian foodhere ismuch-loved. Themenu’s Leaf CAFÉS Cottesloe &Scarborough experience.an essential Danish fetta sauce. Localsviewthisplace as withendive, speckand pan-fried rabbitserved food isavery business,with dishes like serious Euro-chic withflair.is see-and-be-seen And stools, chalk-white wallsandchairs: Rialto’s dinnerMon-Sat) Mon-Fri, and it’sheaving onweekends. speckled courtyardiswonderfulin summer, to businessinthediningroom.Thesun- central bar,andsuit-cladlunchers get down the sidebar,friendsbanter inlounges bythe clutching menperch themselves forhours in The SubiacoHotel isaninstitution.Middie- outfront,andgetpassersby busymunching. inside,orgazeat well. Slipintoawoodentable pizzadoneEcco isallabout simpleItalian licked(Italy) alongthewalls, smallandrustic Tue-Fri) Ecco RESTAURANTS lounge outfront. ter, thensnapupaspotonthebright-blue veggie-and-rice-noodle fritters –atthecoun- wings withmangochutney –orperhaps some yourdukkah-crumbedchickenfood. Choose Sat) 74 by gargantuan of stands pines and tucked up Cottesloe; mains$11.40-19; in glass teapots. range of herb, fruitandberry infusionscome finger Ahuge sandwiches. made-mayonnaise almond-berry teacakes andegg-and-home- three-tier cakeas tiffins, delectable stands, tea andallitsattendant suchhigh delights, people are with these obsessed But lookcloser: h 1, 29NapoleonSt,Cottesloe;hightea$20,mains $7.95-14.50; .au; 465HaySt;mains$16-28; ing more than fancytea inahomeware store. forward, practical,andvery onthe focused $12-24; Rialto’s Subiaco Chutney John As itsnamesuggests, thiscaféisstraight- lunch)

( Tea % PERTH •• Drinking ••Drinking PERTH Withblack-and-white printsof home h

9388 6710; 23 Rokeby Rd;pizzas$19; 9388 6710;23Rokeby Leaf TeaLeaf asnoth- couldbedismissed Merchants

lunch &dinner)

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Hotel % Mary’s 9382 3292;424HaySt;mains$35;

Mp pp54-5; (Map

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% Boldred leather,slickblack Mp pp54-5; (Map 9381 3069;www.subiacohotel.com h The feisty, authenticIn- 9381 2099; 67 Rokeby Rd;mains 9381 2099;67Rokeby h breakfast &lunch)

% breakfast, lunch&dinner) 9384 3390; 37 JohnSt,

% 9284 3830;Shop h Dwarfed

11am-late h lunch restaurant has a distinct clubfeel, with its h relaxed crowdjams inhere weekends. toilets intown.Arather coolbuttackiest in ceramicmonkey’s heads.Plusit’s got the come totems, cocktails andtheostentatious is decked outinbamboo,palmleaves and shoulder. ThistinyPolynesian-themed bar with thebigfake parrotperched over your back onGilligan’s Islandhere, especially o CENTRECITY Bars (below), are gay-friendly ratherthangay-only. Grapeskin and (opposite ) Brisbane Other goodplaces,such asLuxe ( opposite ), the culture islikely tocontinueforawhileyet. licensing lawshave recently changed, been this become partof theculture. the And although to make areturn. Bigdrinkingvenues have you have toturnoutthebeers atarapidrate sively expensive licences;once you’ve gotone, pubs are of enormous.Thisisbecause mas- inCottesloe.notably gardensarebeer strewn aroundthesuburbs, Somebig andLeederville. are inMtLawley bridge; smaller,more laid-back clubsandbars mainstream drinkingvenues are inNorth- thebig lost thelocals’attention. Generally, thesuburbs–CBDhas ded throughout Much like LosAngeles, Perth’s gems are stud- DRINKING hangover cures. burgersThe bacon-and-egg are well-known their burgers anywhere fordecades. else Similarly, localshave refusing been tobuy budge, andthecomplexwasbuiltaroundit. out thisPerth icon,butitsowners refused to Citycomplextriedtobuy huge Observation & dinner) Peter’s QUICK EATS walk fromthebeach. pesto andcherry Twominutes’ tomatoes. Esplanade, Scarborough; burgers & kebabs $5-10; Esplanade, Scarborough;burgers&kebabs massive eggs Benedict, oraBLTmassive Benedict, eggs with basil spot foryourlate-morning fry-up.Diginto a residential street, cute isthe John StCafé Victoria Ave;Victoria Box Connections ( p76 ) isthemain gay club. One of thefirst thingsyou’llnoticeisthat 9.30am-late Mon-Fri, 4pm-late Sat) 9.30am-late Mon-Fri,

by Deli Awhileback,thedevelopers of the Hula

the h

Mp pp58-9 ; (Map

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late Wed-Sun) Sea

Mp pp54-5; (Map bar

Mp pp58-9; (Map

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% lonelyplanet.com This bar-cum- 9341 1738;128The

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h lunch Lawley; INNER-CITY SUBURBSINNER-CITY enthusiasts, isoneof Perth’s oldestbars. unpretentious Universal, forjazzandblues St, Northbridge; place isn’talready heaving. Gay-friendly. lined alonganentire wall–solongasthe atthewinesandspirits elbow andmarvel great bigbaronwhich you canrest your heavy There’s withwinesandcocktails. a daysare beinglifted these weights glasses Brass Monkey, tobeagym,buttheonly used slick-but-cosy wine bar,nextdoortothe &Sat,11am-10pmSun) Wed &Thu,11am-2amFri Northbridge; Grapeskin NORTHBRIDGE pre-dancing drink. baranddecks.Awell-locateddeep spotfora lonelyplanet.com your evening. Withloads ofyour evening. beers like Stella barisa good spot tostart Beer The Belgian St; Murray Belgian CENTRECITY Pubs also excellent. the bestwinebar inPerth, andthefoodis St.It’sprobably bar inthethickof Beaufort toleavelist), it’svery difficult thisbuzzing (there are 40bytheglass,500on thewine tem andtheperfect glassof wineinyourhand French thesoundsys- floatingthrough house and friendly. bar. Thecrowdhere isusuallyvery relaxed also armedwithdecksandaspecialist cocktail coolest spotsaround.Like bar,it’s anyserious after night. spirit thatkeeps thisplacethumpingnight inspired printssubtlyconfirmtheinner-city holiday feel and,inside,AndyWarhol– area. Huge palmsandyukkasprovide abalmy hall-cum-barbeer with a massive outdoor 11.30am-10pm Sun) h Sts,MtLawley; &Brisbane hotel.com.au; cnrBeaufort Brisbane fort St,MtLawley; fort style red-velvet Luxe curtains, isoneof the loungeling, bigsexy chairs andTwinPeaks– Universal Must Luxe 11.30am-late Mon&Tue, 11.30am-midnightWed-Sat, h

Winebar Mp pp58-9; (Map Beer

h Mp pp58-9; (Map

late Wed-Sun) Mp pp58-9; (Map h

11am-midnight Mon-Sat,noon-10pm Sun) Mp pp58-9; (Map

h Café h 11am-midnight Mon&Tue, 11am-1am

Mp pp58-9; (Map TheBrisbane’sabig’n’slick PERTH ••Drinking PERTH until 2amWed-Sat,10pmSun) noon-late)

Mp pp58-9 ; (Map %

% Withretro woodpanel-

% 9228 9680; 446 Beaufort St,Mt 9228 9680;446Beaufort

9227 2300;www.thebrisbane % 9227 9596;215WilliamSt, Considering there’s

% 9227 6771;221William

9328 8255;519Beau- % 9321 4094; 347 This The

courtyard is the standard routine.courtyard isthestandard inthesun-speckled days. Anicecold beer is abigfederation-style pub, popular onSun- Lawley; younger folk. Club, upstairs. Wednesdaysare bigwiththe and,onFridays,very-funpool tables Funk etched outinthesportsscreens, dancefloors, The something-for-everyone philosophyis and Midorishakers formanygenerations. turningoutbeers hasbeen old Leederville &Sat,noon-11pm Sun) Thu, noon-1amFri isup. what else will beeitherheaving ordead,dependingon anything they’re abitAussie-indie. Theplace for pintsover –if small communaltables the young,chilled-out crowdthatgathers here Sat) St, MtLawley; Flying SUBURBSINNER-CITY 11am-1am Weds-Thu, &Sat,11am-10pmSun) 11am-2amFri & WilliamSts,Northbridge; out thefront. andbiglines DJs, pooltables see Other nights willimprove andyoursalsa beer innotime. zilian dancing–justslugbacksomecheap kicks off at9pm).Thursday isallabout Bra- backpacker (theband Monday night’s night popularwithtravellers,Deen’s especiallyon Aberdeen St; Deen NORTHBRIDGE watching. or an afternoon of quiet beers andpeople- beer. It’salso notbadforaSunday sundowner ite andtheinstitution of choice forapre-footy Rd, Subiaco; Subiaco SUBIACO cheery beer barn. cheery beer it’sabitlike ontap, abig and Hoegaarden There’s arestaurant upstairs, too. chesterfield bythefire (andsportsscreen). relaxed garden,orhunker beer downona sit uponastoolatthebar,leanbackin areas, each withitsownvibe. Take yourpick: This isagreat bigheritage pubwithdifferent 742 Newcastle St, Leederville; 742 NewcastleSt,Leederville; Queens Leederville Brass There’s nothingparticularlyScottish about

(Aberdeen Hotel; Map (Aberdeen Hotel;Map pp58-9 ; Scotsman h

Hotel Monkey

h until midnightMon-Sat, until10pmSun) Mp pp58-9; (Map h h

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5pm-2am Mon,Thu-Sat)

11am-midnight Sun-Thu, & 11am-1amFri Hotel Mp pp58-9; (Map

Mp pp58-9; (Map

% The Subi’s alocalfavour-

Mp pp56-7; (Map % h 9328 7267; 520 Beaufort St,Mt 9328 7267;520Beaufort 9381 3069; cnr Hay & Rokeby 9381 3069;cnrHay&Rokeby

% h 11am-midnight Mon-Tue,

% 9328 6200; 639 Beaufort 9328 6200;639Beaufort noon-midnight Mon- 9227 9596;cnrJames

% Thegood 9227 9361;84 9286 0150; This The 75

PERTH PERTH PERTH nights, theFunkClubisfull ofnights, colourandfun. hours.till thewee your breath. DJsplayfunkandretro tunes chairs tocatch upstairs forwhenyouneed downstairs, andanotherbar lounge fields. There’s asmallbutdanceablespace content amongthechandeliers andchester- Newcastle St),anddancetotillyour heart’s thecarparkoffthe Hip-EClub(through forthisspotdowna Search laneway behind music-focused andchilled out. pumping DJ-driven club.Thevibe’susually bridge; Geisha Nightclubs town online,see p62 . in Subiacoandthecity. spots. Theatre andclassicalmusicare found are alsonightlife andMtLawley Leederville Most of thebigclubsare inNorthbridge; ENTERTAINMENT on Sundays. at thisramblingbeachside pub,especially andsoakupthesun kids drinkupthebeer a countrycrowd’.Backpackers andcountry ‘There’sown bumpersticker: nothinglike Sun) St; Pde&Eric Marine Ocean COTTESLOE 76 drum ’n’ bass, house and funk.Puntersdrum ’n’bass, house pop small, red-velvet-clad lounge withhip-hop, Out the back of theFlyingScotsman isthis vibe downstairs. unaware ofseemingly theentirely different A happybunch bopawayforhours uphere, Northbridge; Northbridge; miss –you’ll justhave totryyourluck. things canbehit-or- crowd,though straight Australia. pullafungayand Saturdaynights thefirst ofgay club,supposedly itskind in ternoon long.Sundaysare big. balcony, where guyscheck outchicks allaf- fromthe garden,orwatch thesunset beer Sun) Pde; 104 Marine Upstairs at the Leederville Hotel onFriday Upstairs attheLeederville Velvet Manor Funk To check outwhatishappeningaround Cottesloe Connections Grabaspotonthelawninmassive Keep asharp eyeoutfortheOBH’s very PERTH •• Entertainment ••Entertainment PERTH h

Beach Mp pp58-9; (Map

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(Map (Map pp56-7 ; 742NewcastleSt,Leederville) Hotel h Wed, Fri &Sat) Wed, Fri

Mp pp58-9; (Map h (Map (Map pp58-9 St, MtLawley) ; 639Beaufort 11am-midnight Mon-Sat,11am-10pm

% Hotel

11am-midnight Mon-Sat,11am-10pm Mp pp54-5; (Map 9328 9808;135aJamesSt,North-

entry $6, after midnight$8) entry $6,after

Mp pp54-5; (Map Geisha’s asmall-and- Geisha’s

% Thisistheonereal 9328 1870;81JamesSt,

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Northbridge) TenNorthbridge) themebarsinthisthumpingsuper-club. all nightlong. Tuesday night. is backpackers St, Leederville; modern jazz. The at the HydePark Hotel to play swing and .perthjazzsociety.com) (www.mellenevents.com) andAugie MarchIsaak play at Occasionallymusicianslikenightclub. Chris gig guides). bands playhere (check the nights certain still punkyanda bitsticky.Indieandrock Bulwer &Fitzgerald Sts,Northbridge) the venue). or coffee –BYOalcohol at (noneforsale in swing.Admissiongets youacupof tea find anoldercrowdof jazzfreaks revelling booth: step anddownthe stairs to through a carpark.Thenyou’llfindred telephone for theshoe shop, behind which you’llspot St;admission$10; Beach Rd&Buxton garden. feature. comeswitharestful Iteven beer the front,andabigroundbaras central and floorboards.There’s round apooltable play regularly inthisspaciouspub,allwood 11am-10pm Sun) Perth; Angove &Fitzgerald Sts,North James St) the bestplacesforlive (mainlyindie)bands. h Amplifier Live Music Rise Metro La Club Hip-E Ambar (p75) all night long. (p75) allnight in andoutof here andtheFlyingScotsman clubbers headhere fornon-stoptrance. nightonTuesday.Backpackers toEddieVedder Bump ‘n’grind beltingout‘BetterMan’. St, Northbridge; place forinternationalDJs. every weekend.every art crowd.Popularindiegigsare heldalmost rary artsfestival body,theBakery drawsthe

Bog Hyde Jazz o Big international actsplayat Metro City Other clubs: Rosemount 8am-late Fri &Sat) 8am-late Fri (Map (Map pp58-9 ;

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Picnicking before thefilmisamust. Picnicking isonbeautifulgroundssurroundedby pines. Somerville thearthouse experience, Aquintessential Perth Mar) .moonlight.com.au; Kings Park.moonlight.com.au; Kings BotanicGarden) palace.com.au; Galleria complex,164JamesSt,Northbridge) palace.com.au; Galleria 825 HaySt) 4793; Memorial Hall,16LocheeSt,MosmanPark)4793; Memorial Hoyts Ace following: Hollywood blockbusters are screened atthe and abar. $10Mondaytwin-features .au; 155OxfordSt,Leederville) Luna Cinema Astor The three cinemasinPerth: art-house Cinemas placeTuesdaynight. same atthe traditional jazzandDixieland,meets lonelyplanet.com mantle Dockers – and the West CoastEagles anything but thetwo localteams –theFre- it’shard toget about locals totalk (AFL) season games. The Sport Subiaco Regal Pier St) Playhouse Perth His classical music: theatre programmes.Fortheatre, danceand Check the Theatre &ClassicalMusic Somerville Moonlight Camelot during summer(includingLuna,above): There are anumberof outdoorcinemasopen Hamersley Rd,Subiaco) Alvan St) festival.com.au; UWA,35StirlingHwy,Crawley; Orchestra (WASO). Terrace)Georges HometotheWesternAustralian Symphony Hay St) Astor doesn’tscreen asmanyfilmsLuna andParadiso. decobuilding,the Lawley) Inaspearmintandgoldart During the Australian Football League During the AustralianFootball League

Majesty’s Subiaco (Map (Map pp56-7 ; West Australian (Map (Map pp58-9 ;

Concert Cinema Theatre

Paradiso Arts

Outdoor

Cinema Theatre Auditorium (Map (Map p61 ;

Centre West Australian

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City (Map (Map p61 ; Hall (Map (Map pp58-9 ;

% PERTH ••Shopping PERTH Cinema % (Map (Map pp58-9 ; (Map (Map pp58-9 ; (Map (Map p61 ; (Map (Map pp58-9 ; (Map (Map p61 ; 9444 4056;www.lunapalace.com % 9370 1777; 659 Beaufort St,Mt 9370 1777;659Beaufort (Map (Map pp58-9 ; (Map (Map pp54-5 ; www.perth has details of hasdetails all sports % 9388 6500;500HaySt,cnr (Map (Map pp54-5 ; 9484 1133;474HaySt)

% % % % % % 1300 551908;www 9227 1771;www.luna newspaperfor 9382 3385;180 % 9325 2377;580 9484 1133;5St 9484 1133;3 % 9265 0900; h 9385 Dec- vintage piecesandjeans. Varga Girlhasagoodrange of dresses, some in actionhere. them cer team hasmanyobsessive fans.See 349 Murray St) 349 Murray St) Kings wear, try and bags. as welldesignbooks,broaches, jewellery andcraftpiecesbyAustralianartists vases around thecornerfromKingSt,Form stocks on paperandlimited editionprints. works artists. Worksspanweavings, canvases, Kimberley, Papunya TulaandArnhemLand Subiaco) and tops. necklaces, t-shirts,afew homewares, coats extremely cute store hasjournals, badges, it isagoodplacetobuyindigenous art. are someinteresting spotsaroundtown,and Perth’s notknownforits shopping, butthere SHOPPING Stephenson Ave, MtClaremont) % here watching aone-dayortest match. In summer,cricket fans spendalazyafternoon (WACA; Map pp54-5 ; team isconsidered anarch-enemy). and thejoyof beating‘theVics’(anyVictorian Qantas Air GETTING THERE&AWAY centre, and themore upmarket (Map pp54-5 St,Booragoon) ; 125Risely liam St,Northbridge) games here. NBL basketball here pp54-5; massive range. almost. It’sasbigawarehouse andhasa aroundsince’78–well, This placehasbeen and aco) Indigenart Challenge Perth ground Association Cricket Australian Western Elephant-size shopping mallsare If yousuddenlyfindhave nothingto Form 78 Subiaco Oval Keith There’s agreat atmosphere duringAFL 9492 6000; Lord St, Perth) 9492 6000;LordSt,Perth) Virgin

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City 77

PERTH PERTH PERTH to thefollowingservices: Perth train station. Perth extensive bus service. extensive busservice. There are connections withTranswa’smore Perth–Bunbury Perth–Merredin Perth–Northam terminal.Sometrainsleave7.15am. fromEastPerth pector, Perth–Kalgoorlie-Boulder ( railnetwork,runby The intrastate Train and Newman. Perthtween and PortHedland viaMeekathara www.integritycoachlines.com.au) Margaret River. the region, and includingBunbury,Busselton from theEsplanadeBusporttomosttownsin the southwestern cornerof WA,doingtrips around thestate. PerthEast tomanydestinations trainstation fromthebusterminal at operates services to DarwinviaBroome. Perth fromtheEast terminal daily services Greyhound located atthePerth trainstation. coach is bookingsoffice The longdistance Bus Broome andKalgoorlie. as EsperanceandBroome.alsofliesto Qantas Perthbetween andregional destinationssuch from Avalon, Melbourne. capitals. Perthfly between andotherAustralianstate 78 are $355 (seat only), $253 (seat only, back- are only), $253 (seat $355 (seat Adelaide andPerth,cabin). Between fares only,backpacker(seat rate) or$1320(sleeper one-way fares are only), $422 about $590(seat PerthEast ToPerth station. fromSydney, 21 47;www.trainways.com.au) journey, runby famous IndianPacific train transcontinental .wa.gov.au forthelatest. www.newmetrorail operating mid-2007. See railwaystation. East Perth East Perth railwaystation. East Perth % The Perth–Mandurah railwayshould be South WestCoachLines Skywest Integrity Transwa There is only oneinterstate rail link: the 1300 662205;www.transwa.wa.gov.au) PERTH •• Getting Around ••Getting PERTH Jetstar

( ( (

% % Coach % 1300 660088;www.skywest.com.au) 13 1499;www.greyhound.com.au) 1300 662205;www.transwa.wa.gov.au) ($36.45, thrice weekly)Avon ($36.45,thrice Link, from ($23.90, twicedaily)Australind, from ($13.55, twicedaily)Avon Link,from

(www.jetstar.com)

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Some localoperators –like 9 ; train station inWellington Standat theEs- train station Transperth information offices atthe Perth trains and ferries.operates buses, There are Transperth Perth’s centralpublic transportorganisation, Public Transport ( within WA136139;198AdelaideTce) St) 30 39;39Milligan pp58-9; (Map can fluctuate daytoday. You’ll have notroublegetting fuel,butprices you shouldn’t have problemsfindingone. signed. Perth iswell-equipped withcarparks– some streets are one-wayandmanyaren’t Driving inthecitytakes abitof as practise, Car &Motorcycle andweekends.morning, evenings 30to60minutes 20mins,every every early StGeorgesat C-stand, TcenearWilliamSt) Busport) viaStGeorges Tce($3.20;pick-up tic airportfromKingsPark (orEsplanade (24 hours aheadifpossible). international terminal. Bookingsare essential The shuttlecosts$12/15fromthedomestic/ incoming domesticandinternational flights. the citycentre, hotels andhostels. Itmeets www.perthshuttle.com.au) tional terminal. around $25/35fromthedomestic/interna- Perth respectively. Taxi fares tothecityare Perth’s airportare 10kmand13kmeastof The domestic andinternational terminals of To/From theAirport GETTING AROUND WellingtonSt. isoff Theoffice station. and Countrybookingoffice atthePerth train trains. (toMelbourne)Darwin) andtheOverland connections totheGhan(toAliceSpringsand packer), cabin).There or$1005(sleeper are you hitaroo. areathe metropolitan after dark–incase bigger companies, don’t cover yououtside withthethat someinsurance policies,even but make sure youread thefineprint.Note %

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worth buyingaSmartRidercard,which covers ‘concession’. national studentcardsare notcounted as and alldayontheweekend. Note thatinter- gives youunlimited travel after 9amweekdays theDayRider($7.70)isgoodvalue. It seeing, land. Ifyou’re planningabusydayof sight- two extends toFremantle, Sorrento andMid- city centre andtheinnersuburbs,zone $3.20, three zones$4.Zoneoneincludesthe short rideof onezonecosts$2.10,twozones On regular andtrains,a Transperthbuses trains withinthecity.Lookfor‘FTZ’sign. website. site. There isalsoa‘journeyplanner’onthe Perth, available from theofficesanditsweb- andadviceabout gettingtimetables around new convention centre. Transperthprovides Rd,bythe planade BusportonMountsBay lonelyplanet.com the stopstelling youwhenthenextbusisdue. There are computer readouts (andaudio)at (CAT) inthecitycentre are fantastic. services For travellers, Area thefree Transit Central BUS oftotal $7.70weekdays. two adultsanduptofive children travel fora directly fromthebank).TheFamily Rider lets than buyingsingletickets (25%ifyouload TheSmartRiderworksout15%cheaperself. don’t have tofigure outfares andzonesyour- technology deductsthefare asyougo,so thenyouaddvaluetoyourcard.The chase, you forbus,trainandferry. It’s$10topur- There’s afree and transitzoneforallbuses If you’re inPerth for awhile,itmaybe splashed acrossthevans (notallare painted). Autobarn Freo,yards, including acluster nearMojo’sonStirling Hwy.There’s inNorth alsothe assistance, andpick-up anddelivery withinmetropolitan Perth. Be rigorousandcompare dealscarefully. Youshouldbeabletogetunlimited roadside kilometres, Wicked Campaboutoz accommodation’s plentiful, anddistancesaren’t asgreat. three people. Ingeneral,ifyou’re justplanning totourthesouthwest,ahire carisbetter value– want, whenyouwant.Anditcanbe quite economicaloncecosts are splitbetweentwoor be hampered byhostel check-in timetablesandotherhassles,leavingyoutogowhere you for,say, moreIf you’re thantwoweeks,considerthe headingupnorth Youwon’t campervan. HAPPY VANNING If you’ve donethesums anddecidedto purchase, Freo hasanumber ofsecondhandcar There rental are companiesin Perth, a numberofcampervan includingthefollowing:

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( % PERTH •• Getting Around ••Getting PERTH (Map (Map pp54–5 ; 9228 9500; www.travellers-autobarn.com.au; 365Newcastle St, Northbridge). (Map (Map pp58–9 ; % % 1800 210877;www.campaboutoz.com.au; 198HampdenRd,Nedlands) 1800 246 869; 49 Shenton St, Northbridge) Withgraffiti-stylemurals 1800 246869;49Shenton St,Northbridge) cabs, though the distances inPerth thedistances cabs, though makes Perth hasadecentsystem of metered taxi TAXI around 8.10am-9.15pmweekends. 30 minutes and 6.50am-7.24pm weekdays, 20to runevery jetty inSouthPerth. Services Stjettyinthe citytotheMendsBarrack St Transperth ferries cross theriver fromthe A popularwayof getting tothezoo, FERRY planner’ onitswebsite. the‘journey andadviceoruse timetables information office atPerth for trainstation the a widenetworkof See Transperthbuses. minutes 10amto6.15pmweekends. 30 andevery 6.50am to6.20pmweekdays, Wellington SttoWestPerth 10minutes, every to 6.15pmSunday. minutes 8.30amto1amSaturdayand10am to 1am.Onweekends, there’s 15 abusevery 15minutesand, onFridays,every 6.20pm minutes, 6.50amto6.20pm, seven run every the river toNorthbridge. services Onweekdays, minutes from10amto6.15pmweekends. Italsooperates 25 to 6.20pmweekdays. every Perth. five Itrunsevery minutes from6.50am tram St,WestPerth, totheWACA inEast train station. the innercity.PickupaCAT mapatthePerth Using theCAT, youcanget in tomostsights The red CAT operates east–westfromOu- The metropolitan area is also serviced by areaThe metropolitan isalsoserviced The yellowCAT Perth runsfromEast up The blueCAT operates north–southfrom Traveller’s

79 PERTH PERTH PERTH from Perth, makingitmore like anothersub- years. musicians have toilingawayhere been for make adifference, andpainters, writers and an oldbicycledownthestreet. Artistsalways casuallybobbling and, today,canstillbeseen uphomeherewho first set afew decadesago city’s working-classroots.Orthe hippies, it hassomethingtodowiththeport andthe spirit isentirely distinctfromPerth’s. Perhaps Creative, relaxed, open-minded: Fremantle’s % FREMANTLE toMidland. trains runthrough the traininnon-peaktimes. tions. You’re alsofree totake yourbike on andCityWeststa- extends toClaisebrook ticket’s area of validity;thefree transitzone andferrieson Transperthbuses withinthe lington St.Yourrailticket canalsobeused ham shouldbeoperationalbymid-2007. Sunday. ThelinetoMandurah viaRocking- days. Trainsrununtilabout 2amSaturdayand week- lup) fromaround5.20amtomidnight and thenorthernsuburbof Clarkson(Joonda- to Armadale,Fremantle, Midland,Thornlie Transperth alsooperates suburbantrainlines TRAIN are and inFremantle. Thetwomaincompanies street. There are thecity ranksthroughout may have the onedownoff troubleflagging you frequent costly,andonbusynights use 80 a natural bridge almost spanning the Swan. joined onthe southside of the Swan River, at trailsonce by theNoongar people. Several This area of thousands years wassettled ago HISTORY main drag. the suburbsmove the intoparty andcruise onweekends, kidsfrom and cafés.Atnight historicbuildings,galleries, pubs museums, enjoy here –Freo’s hometosome fantastic there’s more thanthefriendlyatmosphere to daysthan acityofurb these itsown.And wheelchair taxis. taxis. wheelchair White During theday,someof theFremantle All trainsleave fromPerth onWel- station Freo liesatthemouthof theSwan,19km 08 /pop25,500 Swan FREMANTLE •• History FREMANTLE ••History

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northwest sideofthetownhall. northwest 11am-3pm Sat,11.30am-3pmSun)Onthe 5pm Mon-Fri, h information andinternet terminals. internet perhr$5)Travellers’ hangoutwithloadsoftravel internet access. 8.30pm Mon-Thu, 8.30am-3pm Sat)Quiet 8am-4pmFri, range ofmapsandtravelguides. ( centre, the architect-designed stunning, building on theharbour,just westof thecity a in Housed Western AustralianMaritime Museum SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Visitors Travellers New Fremantle Fremantle etech Chart INFORMATION now underappeal). theclaimispeople’s tiestotheland(though successful –acknowledgmentof theNoongar claim titleover area themetropolitan was played theirfirst game. Andin2006anative colourful city.In1995theFremantle Dockers formed Fremantle intoamore modernand Preparations fortheinfluxof touriststrans- sions –theAmerica’sCupyachting trophy. period, oneof Australia’smostprizedposses- unsuccessful defence of whatwas,forabrief the cityof Fremantle wasthesite of the an artificialharbourinthe1890s.In1987 CYO’Connorcreateduntil theengineer oldest inWA. Fremantle are ArtsCentre, nowamongthe Fremantleas theRoundHouse, Prisonand town’s earliestbuildings;someof them,such working labourers constructed mostof the hard- convict labour wasemployed.These madelittleprogressthe settlement until the nameof KingGeorge IV’.Like Perth, ofpossession thewholeof thewestcoast‘in CharlesFremantle,The ship’scaptain, took the ship Manjaree. various partsof thearea, knowntothemas Aboriginal groupsquicklycametooccupy This wasthehubof intertribal tradingroutes. % Fremantle’s Europeanhistorybeganwhen As aport,Fremantle wasn’tuptomuch 9am-late) Excellentbookstore. Stockslocalstitles. 9431 8444; www.museum.wa.gov.au; Quay;mu- Victoria

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the famouswinged-keel yacht thatwonthe ties thatmake upthetown’spopulation. traps work to the sandalwood trade. Ifyou’retraps worktothesandalwood ing range of topics–fromhowAboriginal fish as thesurfer’s vehicle of choice. fur lining)makes of thecut–because itsstatus Even aclassic1970spanelvan(complete with people, anda clude an Sandgroper pride).Otherboatsonshow in- an achievement which isthesourceof much 132-year dominationof thecompetition– stole itawayfromtheAmericans,endingtheir America’s Cupyachting raceinthe1980s(and andFremantle’s,the state’s, destiny. which hasshapedsomuch ofout tothesea, of WA’srelationship withtheocean.Itfaces $15/5; $8/3,museum&submarine seum adult/child$10/3,submarine lonelyplanet.com convict labour, andit operated from1855 lived on inthecity’simagination. oftales adventures and hardshipsinhere have dominates present-day Fremantle. Certainly tour 5pm) In someways,the Old FremantlePrison geous elm-strewn gardens have benches. café andcraftshop withbooks,andthegor- concerts, courses andworkshops. There’s a summer, it’sahive of culturalactivity,with gramme of interesting exhibitions;during the houses tion inthelate 1960s,thebuildingnowalso tic asyluminthe1860s.Saved fromdemoli- constructed byconvictlabourers asaluna- Sts; cnr Ord&Finnerty mantle An impressive neo-Gothic building,the Museum Fremantle ArtsCentre&History halfhourfrom10amto3.30pm. every Navy’s from1969to1997.Tours fleet leave Ovens ocean-going machine, thesubmarine not claustrophobic,take atourof another 7966) adult/child $16/8,night tours$20/10.50; 1TheTerrace;9200; www.fremantleprison.com.au; daytours the Kimberley and used bytheindigenousthe Kimberleyandused Today theartscentre hasachanging pro- Well-presented displayscover anexhaust- You can’tmiss thedisplayof Suitably enough, theprison was builtby enough, Suitably , which focuses onthediverse, which focuses nationali- h . Thevessel waspartof theAustralian

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1852 as a commissariat store)1852 asacommissariat hasadisplay adventuresho seafaring andmisfortunes. poke aroundforhours learningabout gung- ated here. number of theirpeoplekilledwhileincarcer- isasacred ofRound House site because the Rottnest Island.To theNoongarpeople, Aborigines before theywere taken awayto hanging. local prisonandthesite of thecolony’sfirst public buildinginWA.Itwasoriginally a h Round StneartheMaritimeHigh isthe Museum, Out onArthurHead, thewestern endof Round House mezzanine floorabove. aswell asfroma can viewfromgroundlevel of thehullfromrecovered timbers, which you isthereconstructionlery, however, of apart Thedominantfeaturewhen itsank. of thegal- Itwasbeingcarriedby theBatavia via Castle. stone more recent wrecks. to otherDutch merchant shipsandsome tion of thefamouswreck emphasis onthehistory,recovery andrestora- on WA’smaritimehistorywithparticular Galleries Shipwreck a lotof attention, don’tmiss theintriguing commands themaritimemuseum Although Maritime MuseumShipwreckGalleries tours bytorchlight. 7.30pm WednesdayandFridayforthenight mended. Anothergoodtimetovisitisafter –andthey’re recom- highly half-hour every hanged inWA. and EricEdgarCooke, thelastperson tobe ber whoescapedinprisonguard’suniform; artist (p100);Brenden Abbott, abankrob- afamedescape bushranger MoondyneJoe, 1991,playinghosttopeoplelike through right Ellen & OrdSts;admission by donationof $3; or shortly before, thisperiod. and many buildingswere constructed during, Fremantle boomedduring theWAgoldrush Gold Rush Buildings donation; The museum (inabuildingconstructed in The museum You canonlyenter onatour,which depart Later, the building was used forholding thebuildingwasused Later, At oneendof galleryisahuge theBatavia 10am-3.30pm).

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(cnr 81 PERTH PERTH PERTH 82 FREMANTLE FREMANTLE SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Samson House...... Galleries...... Fremantle Markets...... Travellers Centre...... Accommodation...... EATING SLEEPING Fremantle Colonial Western AustralianMaritime Maritime MuseumShipwrecks Fremantle ArtsCentre&History C5 Fremantle PostOffice...... Mussel Bar...... Maya...... Kakulas Sister...... Istanbul...... Gino's...... George StBistro...... YHA BackpackersInnFremantle.... Port MillB&B...... (see21) Pirates...... Old FirestationBackpackers...... Museum...... Town Hall...... St John'sAnglicanChurch...... Old FremantlePrison...... German ConsulateBulding...... Fremantle Tram...... (see16) Museum...... Customs House...... Visitors Centre...... (see16) Chart &MapShop...... Cicerello's...... Terrace CentralB&B...... 100 Hubble...... HMAS OvensSubmarine...... Fremantle Hospital...... Round House...... Etech...... Head Rous 10 Arthur Head 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 17 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 To QuestHarbour C6 C5 C5 D5 C5 F3 B6 C5 D6 D6 C5 D5 F3 B5 D5 C5 E4 B5 E5 B6 B5 B5 D5 E3 B5 C5 D6 D5 C5 Village (200m) Victoria

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(1887)inKingsSquare; ( % 9335 2515;cnrSouthTerrace & h Leighton Beach 9433 6674;www.fremantle and backuptothe 1.15 Wed & Fri-Sun). 1.15 Wed&Fri-Sun). % , behindtheFish- , onthecornerof 9421 5888;tours (1882),onthe Maritime Fishing . AtFish- ; andthe

Boat Mu- 83

PERTH PERTH PERTH noon sea breeze fluttering in. noon sea andtheafter-good value,withnaturallight including adecent-sizedkitchen. Dormsare bike rideaway.Girlshave theirownspace, afive-minute Beaches with PortandLeighton all thetime. You’re ontheharbourhere, right on-site courtyard. Notthatyou’dwanttostay free internet, andasunny fusball,Playstation of entertainmentinthisconverted firestation: dm/d $18/20/50; .old-firestation.net; 18Phillimore St;6-&8-beddm/4-bed along theshoreline. Cockburn Rd.Allthree are located pleasantly Point onlyafew extraminutes’ drive down centre of Freo, andCoogee andWoodman mantle Village isonlyabout 3kmfromthe three caravan parksare fairlyaccessible. Fre- So longasyouhave yourownvehicle, the Budget but there are alsosomegoodapartments. B&BsofferGenerally the best midrange value, There’s adearthof accommodationinFreo. SLEEPING tival Food-lovers willenjoytheannual come alive withperformancesandparades. 10-day ranean immigrants.InNovember isthebig, toFremantletradition brought byMediter- Blessing Perhaps themostinteresting istheannual FESTIVALS &EVENTS $75/40). or doabrunchtrip(adult/child ortwilight (adult/childcan gooutforadaysail $99/69) B,VictoriaDock.You atBerth tine, isbased www.leeuwin.com) 84 to the action. a huge indoor recreation area, and it’s close on themini cinemascreen there’s night, every rooms are andclean. Flicksare bright shown into this YHA –theonlyone inthecity–and Inn. Newmanagement has breathed fresh life Doctor, hasjustfloated Backpackers through $3.50; members extra without bathroom/dwith bathroom$18/20/35/45/60,non- 11Pakenham St;8-/4-beddm/s/d [email protected]; pleasant afternoon sea breeze, theFremantle afternoon sea pleasant long leftthebuilding,butthere’s stillplenty YHA Backpackers InnFremantle YHA Backpackers The trainingship Old (January). FREMANTLE ••Festivals &Events

Firestation

of Fremantle

the

Fleet i , a55m,three-masted barquen-

i ) Backpackers Thebrawnyfiremen have

(Esplanade Reserve) Festival ) STS It’s asifFreo’s famously

Leeuwin , where thestreets

( %

II ( 9430 5454;www

, anOctober % ( % Sardine 9431 7065; 9430 4105;

Fes- park has a slightly morepark hasaslightly upmarket feel. It’s .com.au; 83-85South Tce;d/3-bedroom apt $132/180, rates treasured recycled objects. heritage listed iseven –forits guesthouse Freo conscious artist,thisenvironmentally Lovingly createdoff-cuts. by awell-known sun-filled veranda, paved withgravestone outdoor telephone booth,and relax onthe restored 1950straincarriage, showerinan ina beautifully commodation. You’ll sleep This mustbeFremantle’s mosteccentricac- 100 HubbleSt,EastFremantle; s$100,dfrom$150; but it’sstillgoodvalue. no air-con, and itcanbenoisyonweekends, welcoming communalsittingroom. There’s with sofas, fans andfridges, andthere’s a spot torestcomfortable up.Lounges come and country-stylefurnishings make thisa bedheads,crispwhite linens Wrought-iron folk harbours asecret upstairs: itsrooms. streaked garden,theoldlimestoneNor- beer quietlyinthesun- eucalypts andelmsstand $95, trfrom$105-115,dwithoutbathroom $70) Norfolk Midrange beach holidaythanouter-Freo post. staging and itslocationmakes itfeel more summer have It’susuallyquiet, (Coogee doesn’t these). court andcafé. popular withyoungfamilies,andhasatennis from $95,pavedsitefor2$34) Rdturnoff;chaletsfor2 .com.au; CockburnRd,nearMayor there’s aminimumfour-week stay. to Freo. It’smore upforlong-termers set – is afunctionalcaravan park,andtheclosest person $20; week $265,perextra Rd;powered tentsite$27,chaletsfortwoper cnr Rockingham 1CockburnRd,SouthFremantle,.fremantlevillage.com.au; near you thatanoceanswimisminutes away. eye-catching remind wallmuralsof thesea ished. Thekitchen area iswell-equipped,and bathroom upstairs isfreshly tiledandpol- A particularly pleasant spot,withtentA particularlypleasant sites Rooms are ingreat shape,andthegirls-only of theFreo actionisatopspottosocialise. This sun-andfun-filled hostel inthethick from $125;powered tentsitefor2from$38; chaletsfor2 aspenparks.com.au; 132CockburnRd,Munster; Terrace 100 Woodman Coogee Fremantle Pirates

Hubble Hotel

Central ( Mp pp54-5; (Map %

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com

Point Village

9335 6635;11EssexSt;dm/d$22/70; (

% (

% B&B

9335 5405;47SouthTerrace; dfrom Mp pp54-5; (Map

9339 8080;www.100hubble.com; Mp pp54-5; (Map

( % % 9418 1810;http://aspenparks 9335 6600; info@terracecentral Thisbigger caravan a ) Fremantle Village % % lonelyplanet.com 9434 1433;http:// 9430 4866;www ais While i i ) ) )

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com balconies formaximumnauticalexperience. find.) Allroomsfacetheharbour andhave sincethey’reis hardtobelieve, really quite a apartments, nestledontheharbour. (Which comfortable. the bestlocationinFreo. They’re bigand door totheOldFremantle Gaol,musthave work balconies.Theprisoncottages, next and dusty-pinkwallsopenoutontolace- bedframes,floralquiltcoverswrought-iron colonial themewithgusto. White-painted Whichever bothembrace the youchoose, two-storey terrace orhistoricprisoncottage? bedroom apt$150,cottagesfrom$180; St;B&Bd$145,2- [email protected]; 215High roomy. Doublesareback, which uptoeight. sleep There are twomodernapartmentsoutthe mounted even giant woodengiraffes, plates. miniaturecharacter: boats,flyingmallards, you alittlebitof extraspace. It’salsofullof – there are roomshere about eight –affords character-filled B&Batheart,butitslarger size higher onSat; lonelyplanet.com tennis court, pool andspa. Rooms are and there’s spacious and bright, a the glittering boatharbour isyourbackyard. here, it’squiet, and itallmakes though, sense: Freo, few passhere byroad. Onceyou’re an unlikely spot.Along theharbourinNorth of room. with solid-coloured furnishingsandplenty Upstairs, there’s amore contemporary feel, a littledated, and kitchens are fullyequipped. Downstairs theroomsare andsimple,if light a apt $190,2-bedroom$220-280,3-bedroom apt$280-330; Rd,ChallengerHarbour;1-bedroom Mews bourvillage.com.au; tinkle yourchina over breakfast. out tothesun-filled decks,where youcan balconies. Frenchwrought-iron doors open contemporary Frenching taps, furniture and it’s allmodernParisian style,withgleam- Freo limestone(builtin1862asamill),inside 3/17 EssexSt;dfrom$170) Port Top End luxurious B&Bsintown.Crafted fromlocal child of Paris andFreo –andoneof themost $205, 2-bedroomaptfrom $245; Fremantle; studios$190,1-bedroom aptfrom John St,North Fremantle Quest Pier )

Mill Not many locals know this quiet set ofNot manylocalsknowthisquiet set

Harbour B&B

Resort ai

Colonial ( %

Village FREMANTLE ••Eating ( 9433 3832; www.babs.com.au/portmill; 9433 3832;www.babs.com.au/portmill; % ) Terrace maybea Central

Accommodation 9336 2555;www.pier21.com.au; 9 Thismustbethelove-

( % as 9430 3888;www.questhar ai ) Pier 21isin

( % ) Rambling Rambling 9430 6568; been around since1903.It’salsoaquintes-been Fishing BoatHarbour spot forfruitand otherpicnicitems. Northbridge, you’llknowthedeal. filled snacks.Ifyou’ve toKakulas been in and anexcellentspottostockupon energy- –isacook’sdream, rocketand Italian seeds provedore –packed withnuts,quincepaste Kakulas SELF-CATERING menu Friday. foryears. theweek, Special through right favourites have made itapopularlocalspot, without thepomp.Itswell-executed Indian cloths andwoodenchairs signalclassicstyle h attention-grabbing bellydancer. Comeswithan and otherdeliciousdelights. be overloaded tabouleh, withsalads, damn good,especiallyforvegetarians, who’ll to-earth, no-frills Turkishrestaurant. It’s 21.90; guys. no budgingthese their espressos There’s outdoors, nonplussed. front, ontothepavement, andthelocalssipped coffee machine wassimplymoved outthe When thecaféwasrec daysit’sabitofthese atouristattraction. locals treat livingroom,and itastheirsecond scriptwriters, musiciansandotherassorted most famouscafé.Pot-bellied men, Italian lunch &dinner) Gino’s South Tce&Around lifestyle choice. onSouthTceisalsoalegitimatedoor tables Boat Harbour. People-watching fromout- two mainspotsare SouthTceandFishing finedining.The fish andchips thanserious inFreoEating ismore or aboutcasualItalian EATING Watch out for the seagulls –theycan actlikeWatch out forthe seagulls care if you’re in yourtracksuit, for instance.) inside. It’sallvery casual. (No-one’sgoing to boardwalk orintheconcrete-floored space fish and chips, thenpick aspotoutonthe Fremantlesential your experience. Choose Cicerello’s h The Fremantle Markets ( p83 ) isalsoagood Maya Istanbul lunch &dinner) dinner Tue-Sun, lunch Fri) dinner Tue-Sun, lunchFri)

h ( %

Sister ( lunch &dinner)

% 9336 1464;1SouthTce;mains$9-24; (

% ( Old-school Gino’smustbeFreo’s % 9335 2796; 77 Market St;mains$18.90-25; 9335 2796;77Market

9335 1911; 44 Mews Rd;mains$11.50-20; 9335 1911;44Mews ( % 9335 6068;19bEssexSt;mains$17.90- Thisfish andchips factory’s 9430 4445; 29-31 Market St) 9430 4445;29-31Market Istanbul isonedown- Istanbul ently refurbished, the Maya’s white table- h breakfast, mezze This 85

PERTH PERTH PERTH cludes disheslike linguine withchorizo light of menuin- asecret. TheEuropean-German along quiet,leafyGeorge St,it’ssomething St Bistroiscoveted by the locals–nestled the harbour, thisbrewery’s ales are agreat juice. Sundaybreakfast isbig. redflower mash,caramelised wineandshallot comforting dishes like oxtail piewithcauli- downtoartworks andcurios.Thensettle into thedark-wooddiningroom lined with the heavy, fuchsia-painted doors metal and complete withpicket fence. Swingthrough & Sun) mains $28-32; Harvest North &EastFremantle standouts. Mains like blue-manna-crab parpadelleare cluding traditionalchilli andThaigreen curry. fromfiveChoose typesof dishes,in- mussel here, ifitweren’t forthefood.(It’sexcellent.) the locationismainreason tocomedown views of theglittering harbour. Youwouldsay ontheharbour.right Nobookings. boats fromtheboardwalkoutback–you’re floororalmost nuzzlethe deck onthesecond can inspectthebrewery vatsyourself from the chilli wood-fired tomatomussels, pizzas.You crunchy prosciutto-wrappedprawns,classic wait. Andthefoodisexcellent–juicyyet but thehome-brewed alesare wellworththe can get chaotic attimes(ascantheservice), shed overlooking theharbour,thisbrewery quite agem. Inacavernous converted boat brunch&dinnerSatSun) Fri, Rd;mains$14-20; .com.au; 40Mews when they’re inthemood. demonic robotsfromsomeb-grade sci-fi flick 86 along South Tce. Most of the bigpubsintown are lined up DRINKING a Europeanfeel. walls, andthebanquette lend and smalltables temporary arttakes prideof placealongthe and squidinasubtle tomatosauce. Con- Boat Harbour; sel Bar’s large Bar’s romantic glasssel windowsafford $29-34; Harbour; mains$18-29; George Mussel Little Little First you’llfindagreen-painted cottage, FREMANTLE •• Drinking FREMANTLE ••Drinking h

( Creatures Creatures %

dinner Mon,lunch&Wed-Sun) Bar St h h

9336 1831; 1 Harvest Rd, North Fremantle; Rd,North 9336 1831;1Harvest Bistro

( dinner Tue-Sat, lunchThu-Sun,breakfast Sat % late)

9433 1800; 42 Mews Rd,Fishing9433 1800;42Mews Boat (

( In a huge oldboatshed, by % h ( % % 9430 5555; 40 Mews Rd,Fishing9430 5555; 40 Mews lunch &dinnerTue-Sun) 9430 5555;www.littlecreatures 9339 6352; 73 George Stmains 9339 6352;73George LittleCreatures is h lunch &dinnerMon- George Mus- St, oppositecarparkbelow gaol) ales here –Pale Ale,LittlePilsner,Roger’s source of WApride. Thefourhome-brewed late) mous Book ahead. music and Africandrumming workshops. paintings,Hungarian andRomanian Afghani JeffGeyer, Lang. Hills, Renee kinds perform– The KillDevil around for about 20years.that’s been All inthishuge,Fly byNight, shedlike venue local band. turn yourattention toanup-and-coming den outback.Restoneelbowonthe barand small venue, andthere’s gar- asociablebeer rock ’n’rollandindie)DJsplay atthis Local andnationalbands(mainlyAustralian livestanding musicpubs–areal stalwart. the John ButlerTrio. theWaifs, musicians–EskimoJoe, talented it’s nowonderthecityhasturnedout somany Given Freo’s anenclave longbeen forartists, ENTERTAINMENT young ’unsinthedownstairs caféandbar. overlooking bylively thewater, ispatronised riverside Stjettyand inn,upfromtheEast midnight Mon-Sat,noon-9pmSun) a veranda. it’smorecused; upstairs, sedate where there’s its formerglory.Downstairs isbigandbeer-fo- impressivelybeen restored torecall much of Built in1854,thisFremantle landmarkhas midnight Mon-Thu, &Sat,11am-10pmSun) 11am-1amFri miss anything. screen tucked aroundthesidesoyoudon’t soporificsometimes. There’sright abigsports theelmsandeucalypts,isdown- in through limestone courtyard,withthesunstreaking JamesAsahi, Coopers, Becks, Squire. The time over oneof here themanybeers ontap – and watch theboats,outback. floor (it’sallopen),ordrinkuponthedeck can viewthebrewing vatsfromthesecond Ale–areAmber andtheBright You fantastic. Slow downtotheFreo paceandtake your South Tce) Left Other live music venues include theenor- Kulcha Fly Mojo’s Sail Hotel Norfolk Good oldMojo’s isoneof Freo’s long-

Metropolis & Bank

Anchor World culture’s thefocushere, with

Night

( ( % %

( % 9430 4010; 237 Queen Victoria St; 9430 4010;237QueenVictoria 9336 4544; www.kulcha.com.au; 1stfl,13 9336 4544;www.kulcha.com.au;

Musician’s

( ( % 9319 1315; 15 Riverside Rd; 9319 1315;15Riverside

% Fremantle 9335 8433;64SouthTce; 9335 5405;47SouthTce;

Club Variety isthe key at

( %

( This Edwardian % lonelyplanet.com 9336 1880; 58South 9430 5976; h h h h 7.30am-

11am- Queen 7pm- late)

spiring place to browse localartsandcrafts. spiring placetobrowse spot formusicandtickets. North Fremantle. Trains runabout 15 every and youcanenjoy oceanviewsasyouenter One-way tripstake 30minutes fromthe city, play atthe things jumparoundforhours. Localbands ends, energetic miniskirtsandchesty young tional bandsandDJsperform.Ontheweek- this amazingprovedore. lentils andoils,in thenuts,seeds, or browse snack-preparing toanessential yourself item, the trainstation. Fashion stores runalong Market St,towards SHOPPING hoyts.com.au; CollieSt) busters screen at Tce; lonelyplanet.com ning tool. plan- on Transperth’s website, isauseful Rd andStirling Hwy.The journeyplanner, Hwy;others goviaMounts Bay the Canning 103, 106, 111158and107. Sometravel via Perth cityandFremantle. includebuses These utes evenings. minutes (adult$3.20)duringthe day,30min- .au) on thewayback. includewinetastings 11am, anditscruises (adult/child $36/18),leaving at9.45amand www.captaincookcruises.com.au) from jettyfive. leaving fives timesdaily(adult/child $17/11) ( jetty, butallowplentyof time. from Perth’s St StjettytotheEast Barrack A very waytoget pleasant here isbyferry GETTING THERE&AROUND fiction aswellarange of localtitles. This excellent,well-stocked bookstore carries in thebasement. Queen Victoria St, North Fremantle) St,North Queen Victoria Tce; .com.au; EssexSt) .au; cnr Ord & Finnerty Sts; .au; cnrOrd&Finnerty 10pm Sun) % Fremantle Kakulas There are between alsocountlessbuses Transperth New Mills Retro isthemostconvenient waytoget toFreo. h h 9325 1191;www.oceaniccruises.com.au)

noon-midnight Mon-Thu, &Sat,noon- noon-1amFri 9pm-4am Fri, 9pm-5amSat) 9pm-4am Fri,

Edition Records , andthe Luna

Sister

Newport

Arts train

( is the arthouse cinema;block- is thearthouse % on

Captain ( ( GUILDFORD&THESWANVALLEY ••Information % %

Centre Hoyts 9335 2383;50SouthTce; SX . ( % Swan 9335 1945;22AdelaideSt) 9430 4445; 29-31 Market St) 9430 4445;29-31Market

( % Hotel 13 6213;www.transperth.wa.gov

Cook Millennium ( 10am-5pm)

% 9430 5999;www.lunapalace Hotel also does thetrip alsodoes

( has DJsandbands Cruises 9432 9555;www.fac.org % , where interna-

( % 9335 2428;2South Thisisanin- Oceanic

( ( 9335 2725;201 % % h has boats 9430 6988; 9325 3341; 9am-late)

Cruises Your Treat

( h connect thehotel withtheriver. to tunnelwhichcheck used outthesealed-off a convict-built well)and,whileyou’re there, pub. Have inthecellarbar(formerly abeer ( ahead of yourvisit.The1841 visitors centre todouble-check openinghours 2-4pm Sun) Guildford; adult/child$2/free; river. The House Woodbridge SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES visitorscentre Region Swan Valley &Eastern INFORMATION region, see p98 . For NationalPark hikes intheSwanValley Swan Valley atour( you’llneed p67 ) oracar. trains stopatGuildford,buttoexplore the days lished in1829asaninlandport.These in Perth. Sited ontheSwanRiver, itwasestab- ford wasoneof thefirst colonialsettlements The NationalTrust–classifiedtownof Guild- THE SWANVALLEY GUILDFORD & the weekend. and10amto6.30pmon to 6pmonweekdays tinuous route 10minutes every from7.30am which takes inallthemajor sites onacon- travel byfootoronthefree CAT busservice, parking meters inFreo. to It’seasyenough range pick-upfromyouraccommodation. tohour. half-hour times dailyaboutevery Ar- departs Fremantle fortheairportabout12 from$25perperson) www.fremantleairportshuttle.com.au; and bike paths. Pool,overspots atMussel 30kmof walkways, outdoor activities, withpicnic andbarbecue train) and tramrides.But there are plentyof ings and engines(including avintage steam forest, with craftdisplays,oldrailwaybuild- It’smore recreationserve. area thanunbridled or BeechboroRd; ( is an1885colonialmansionoverlooking the % % % In WestSwanisthe 26-sq-km The There isaplethoraof one-waystreets and 9am-4pm) Well-stocked withinformationandmaps. 9am-4pm) Well-stocked 9279 8444;105SwanSt) 9209 6000; www.whitemanpark.com; enterfromLordSt 9209 6000;www.whitemanpark.com; 9379 9400; cnr Swan & Meadow Sts,Guildford; 9379 9400;cnrSwan&Meadow Fremantle is right bythevisitors isright centre. the Call Old Courthouse, Gaol &Museum Gaol Old Courthouse, h 8.30am-6pm)

(Ford St,Guildford;

Airport

h claims to be WA’s oldest claimstobeWA’soldest 9-3pm Wed, noon-4.30pm Sat, 9-3pm Wed,noon-4.30pmSat,

Shuttle , Perth’s biggest re- Rose &CrownHotel h

Whiteman Park Whiteman ( % 1-4pm Thu-Tue)

(Meadow St, St, (Meadow 9335 1614;

PERTH PERTH PERTH www.cavershamwildlifepark.com.au; adult/child$15/6; www.cavershamwildlifepark.com.au; © LonelyPlanetPublications St, off Great Northern Hwy; mains$24.50-$30; St, offGreat Northern olives.kalamata jimup crinkle-cutfriesorplump,top-quality up here undertheopensky.TrysomeMan- Perth,in East andsnacks it’sjustlazytapas are fine-diningefforts focused that Lamont’s .au; tapas$6.50-13.50; Lamont’s EATING &DRINKING sculpture park. Swan; Middle sales. hills, huge jacarandatrees, andcellardoor historicpropertywithrollingspectacular ( Bring yourpicnicbasket to often mobbed byfamiliesandtourgroups. quality chocolates, jams and is preserves, 5123 WestSwanRd; life byfocusingonfood. (it’s toohot).SotheSwanValley foundanew Valley managed toproducetop-shelfwines producing success–few wineriesintheSwan once overshadowed byMargaret River’s wine- 18km northeastof theCBD,region was bucolic restaurant scene:the Guildford toUpperSwanisPerth’s very own takes atleast1½hours, one-way.) bus 336,andget offatWhiteman Park. (This to Morley,change totheEllenbrook-bound bus 60fromtheEsplanadeBusportinPerth quokkas andnative birds.Toget here take cassowaries, echidnas, kangaroos,potoroos, h WildlifePark &Zoo Caversham 88 the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’ the above -‘Do theright thetermsand conditionsonour siteforalongerway ofsaying youknow,or resell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inother words,please don’t uploadthischapter toapeer-to-peer In return, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseit forpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse, accesstothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake % Sittella Company Chocolate River Margaret alongtheSwanRiver fromRambling The parkalsohoststhewell-maintained 8.30am-4.30pm) 9274 9540; Dale Rd, Middle Swan; 9274 9540;DaleRd,Middle GUILDFORD &THESWANVALLEY ••Eating&Drinking Gomboc Gallery

(

% ( % h 9296 4485;85BisdeeRd;www.lamonts.com 9296 0237;www.sitella.com.au; 100Barrett 10am-5pm Wed-Sun) , which hascreatures such as h h 10am-5pm)

lunch, tapasSat&Sun) ( % 9274 3996;50JamesRd, , withitsgood- Swan Valley Houghton Wines

h hasagood ( %

( 10am-5pm) % h 9248 1984; 9250 1588; cellar door . Only Now , a

Sat, breakfast Sun) & lunchTue-Sun) Black Duckstein Mash cellar doorisworthastop. chilli brothandfennel-and-pea risotto. The andmarronwith quince paste, ormussels hamwithpoachedlike pears and Serrano wedding functionspot.Mains includedishes so niceouthere, actually,thatit’sapopular environs are testimony toitsexperience. It’s Andthiswinery’smenuand Houghton’s). long-term operators outhere (theotheris $32; ($40) are available Sunday. PicnicplattersSpanish doughnuts. fortwo somedark-chocolatesay, potsandcinnamon tomato chutney? Youcouldfollowthiswith, currywithstickyriceandfiery and-eggplant room butter? Ortwice-cooked crispy-duck- in prosciuttoonberlottibeanswithmush- best. Howabout filletwrapped Harvey beef onto thevines,Riverbank’s menuisoneof the Sun) .au; 126HamersleyRd;mains$25-29; beer). bratwurstandHefeweizen (wheat thegrilled classics like German lunch Sun)Thisbrewery turnsoutwell-executed Brook; mains$19.50-26.50; soak uptheviewof thevines. on kumarapuree withmandarinconfit,and time over mainslike crispyroasted duckling tolunchoffice uphere regularly. Take your eat intheValley –Perthites sneakoutof the Duckstein, thisbrewery hasayoungercrowdand attitude. mains $22; $22; Also recommended: Sandalford Riverbank A pleasant, openrestaurant Apleasant, thatlooksout h h (

Swan % lunch) lunch Mon-Thu, by Right lunch&dinnerFri-Sun) h ( 9296 5588;10250WestSwanRd;mains$16- %

café Sandalfordisoneof twobig-time,

cellar door&lunchMon-Sun,dinnerWed-

Sitella’s oneof thebestplacesto ( ( % 9296 0620;9270WestSwanRd,Henley % ( % 9377 1805;www.riverbankestate.com 9374 9301;3210WestSwanRd;mains 9296 6090;8600WestSwanRd; h lunch &dinnerWed-Sat, h lonelyplanet.com lunch daily,breakfast