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CALL US AT 203.288.3375 | VISIT US AT WWW.THEBEVERAGEJOURNAL.COM FEBRUARY2015

FEATURES

10 In the Name of Love This month’s guest columnist speaks of Valentine’s gifts held dear to the heart.

12 Cocktail Corner Avoid a deep freeze with a little seasonal cocktail creativity.

24 Retail Review Greenwich’s Horseneck Wines pins success on its serious 10 customer service. 25 Playing Hard to Get This month’s beer column addresses brand buzz from the sales ﬂ oor.

26 Behind the Bar The cut-o : a guest perspective on serving smart from the stick.

24 25 February 2015 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL 3 FEBRUARY2015

33 The Deal with Burgundy Quality is solid, but can retailers get enough to sell at a decent price?

36 What’s in a Name? As ‘craft’ spirits continue to grow, the term itself comes under ﬁ re. 33 42 Taming the Beast Umbrian producers cultivate the elegant side of Sagrantino.

48 Lowering the Bar Less-potent cocktails are lean, provocative and proﬁ table.

48 42 DEPARTMENTS 5 Market Point 14 Around Town 30 Revenue Reports 6 News Front 26 Serving Up 32 State Violations 11 The Find 27 By The Numbers 46 New Products & Promotions

HOW BEER, WINE LIQUOR BRAND INDEX JOURNAL CLASSIFIED AND SPIRITS WINE BRAND INDEX SHOPPING NETWORK Page 1a GET TO THE BEER BRAND INDEX THE INDEX MARKETPLACE The largest compilation of beverage alcohol price and brand information.

4 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL Volume 80, February 2015, No. 2 (ISSN 0744-1843) February’s issue shows the love (to the industry) by covering the hot topics that help you boost your business, with PUBLISHER Gerald P. Slone on- and off-premise tips and tools for creating value for [email protected] your customers. EDITOR Dana Slone [email protected] Our cover story is “Craft: What’s in a Name?” and it could not be timelier. How the trade uses the term “craft” is having an impact on how the category is DIRECTOR OF WHOLESALE SERVICES defined: turn the pages for more. Laurie Buick [email protected] And when it comes to craft beer, consumers use many online tools (from the SUBSCRIPTION/RETAIL SERVICES Beer Advocate blog to a brand’s state delivery schedule via social media) to Brian Slone hunt down their beloved beers. Our beer columnist gives his perspective on [email protected] what it’s like to experience the buzz from the sales floor.

DESIGN The local focus can be found in Retail Review and Serving Up; and don’t forget Evan Fraser Around Town. It’s where your brands and your news can be seen: trade tastings, [email protected] product launches, industry event coverage and more. Read them in this issue WRITERS and then send in your news for the next. Lauren Daley Bob Sample

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thebeveragejournal.com 203.288.3375 We go on-premise with a look at low-calorie cocktails. This could be the next Published Monthly By: Beverage Publications, Inc; 2508 significant step in the cocktail renaissance, with fortified and aromatized wines Whitney Avenue, P.O. Box 185159; Hamden, CT 06518 is playing a key role in the mix. devoted to all liquor, wine and beer licensees as described by the Department of Consumer Protection, Liquor Control Division. Sagrantino, a hearty red wine from Umbria, may be currently under the radar but Nothing may be reproduced or uploaded without written it is comparable in intensity to Brunellos and Barolos. Find out how to increase permission from the publisher. This includes articles, its value in your wine sales. pictures, pdf files, online or electronic versions. Not responsible for unsolicited material or advertising claims. Look for New Products & Promotions, the place to read about what’s hot to The opinions expressed here are that of the individual authors and not necessarily the views of Beverage stock on the shelf or the bar. Publication, Inc. We reserve the right to reject any material that is flawed due to content or design. A note on state revenue reports that show gallonage and sales. We are asked All advertisements and price list advertising are subject to now and again, “Why they aren’t they in every month?” We publish the reports the approval of The Beverage Journal which reserves the right to edit, reject or properly classify. in the issue as soon as the DRS releases them. It’s great market information, right? And you can always check the DRS website; it’s how we get the publicly Periodicals postage paid at New Haven, CT. issued reports. Postmaster: Send address changes to: CT Beverage Journal, P.O. Box 185159, Hamden CT 06518 DO NOT FORWARD. Remember too, outside of the pages, we offer our password-protected product shopping and ordering website. There you will find the best place to search, National Coverage, Local Advantage The Beverage Network Publications are served by: shop and order directly to your wholesalers as well as manage your product Beverage Media Group, Inc. portfolio right when you need it -- through a tablet, laptop or mobile device. 116 John Street, 23rd floor, New York, NY 10038 tel 212.571.3232 fax 212.571.4443 If you have not used it yet, we can show you how. Call Laurie or Brian to get www.bevnetwork.com started.

February 2015 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL 5 NEWSFRONT

NATIONAL RESTAURANT ASSOCIATION ROLLS BELVEDERE VODKA ANNOUNCES PARTNERSHIP OUT “BAR” FOR ANNUAL TRADE SHOW WITH THE 24TH JAMES BOND ADVENTURE

The National Restaurant Belvedere Vodka is collaborating Association (NRA) announced with Albert R. Broccoli's EON a new name for its show within Productions, Metro-Goldwyn- a show, BAR (Beverage Alcohol Mayer Studios and Sony Pictures for Restaurants) at NRA Show Entertainment to promote 2015, formerly known as the International Wine, Spirits & “Spectre,” the 24th installment Beer Event. Dedicated to helping professionals develop a of the James Bond series, due for successful bar program in foodservice establishments, BAR at global release on November 6, NRA Show 2015 will take place in the Lakeside Ballroom at 2015. Belvedere will release two Chicago’s McCormick Place on May 17-18. The “show within custom-made and limited editions a show” will take place concurrently with the 2015 National to celebrate Bond's vodka martini. Restaurant Association Restaurant, Hotel-Motel Show, Belvedere has replaced the iconic running from May 16-19. “We wanted our attendees to have Belvedere Palace with the famous a direct word association with BAR at NRA Show and its MI6 headquarters and its signature blue palette will be switched purpose, which is to connect beverage alcohol to restaurant for a distinctive green, mirroring the secret spy agency's ink menus and brands and vice versa,” says convention chair of choice, for a collector's edition of 100 bottles. Belvedere's John Metz. “Now, not only the name, but also the location “Spectre” marketing program includes a global advertising will showcase the importance of beverage alcohol and campaign and a wide range of promotion and activation rights foodservice working hand-in-hand to contribute to an around the film. operation’s bottom line.” CRIMSON WINE GROUP ANNOUNCES WINES OF SOUTH AFRICA INVESTS IN EXECUTIVE LEADERSHIP CHANGES EDUCATING AMERICAN CONSUMERS Napa’s Crimson Wine Group, Wines of South Africa Ltd announced the promotion of (WOSA), a not-for-profit Patrick DeLong to the position industry organization that of President and Chief Executive promotes the exports of Officer, and also named Craig all South African wine, Williams as Chief Operating announced the launch of a year- Officer as well as moving him to long integrated communications campaign that will include the newly-created position of Chief public relations, social media and event marketing. The Winegrower. DeLong, who has 2015 campaign will aim to educate and challenge American been at Crimson for the past seven Patrick DeLong, President and CEO. wine drinkers to experience the broad spectrum of wines and a half years, was previously available from South Africa. Another goal of 2015 will be Chief Operating Officer and Chief Financial Officer. He succeeds to translate Americans’ excitement surrounding the category Erle Martin, who left the company earlier this year. DeLong and into increased availability of South African wine in on- and Williams began their new roles on Jan. 1, 2015. Crimson owns off-premise accounts. Even though many regard South Africa and manages over 870 acres of vineyard land across five distinct as a “new world” wine producing country, WOSA, which regions. Their brands include Pine Ridge Vineyards (Napa, Calif.), represents over 500 exporters, is looking to “illuminate the Seghesio Family Vineyards (Healdsburg, Calif.), Archery Summit history, depth and range of South Africa’s vinous prowess” (Dayton, Ore.), Chamisal Vineyards (San Luis Obispo, Calif.), and among new consumers. Double Canyon (Prosser, Wash.).

6 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access Exclusively Distributed by Brescome Barton NEWSFRONT

SKINNYGIRL COCKTAILS DONATES TO DRESS 2014 CRAFT BEER IN REVIEW FOR SUCCESS DURING THE HOLIDAYS DATA AVAILABLE

Skinnygirl® Cocktails The Brewers Association and founder Bethenny looked back on how craft Frankel donated $150,000 brewers fared in 2014 to Dress for Success®, an and released its statistics international not-for-profit of note. Among the organization that promotes numbers: U.S. brewery the economic independence count returns to historic of disadvantaged women. levels; breweries are "Dress for Success is so opening at a rate of 1.5 important to me. These women are an inspiration to everyone, and per day; through June of 2014, craft brewers enjoyed 18 percent we're happy to help their cause of establishing and growing their growth by volume; IPA is up 47 percent by volume and 49 percent careers,” said Frankel. On Dec. 17, 2014 Frankel and Skinnygirl by dollar sales. Retail data also indicates that variety packs are Cocktails presented a check for $150,000 to Dress for Success up 21 percent by volume and 24 percent by dollar sales; and 38 at the organization's graduation ceremony for the Going Places percent of households bought a craft beer in the last year. “It’s Network, a a program that has helped over 10,000 unemployed remarkable to see how beer has evolved in the past century. Year women secure employment by teaching professional skills and over year we’re seeing tremendous growth in the craft beer sector and 2014 proved that craft beer is moving into the mainstream,” accelerating their job searches through training, career coaching said Bart Watson, chief economist, Brewers Association. A full and networking. Over the course of the three year partnership, summary is available on the organization’s website. Skinnygirl Cocktails has donated more than $700,000 to Dress for Success. MODEST GROWTH FOR ON-PREMISE DRINK DIAGEO RELEASES HAIG CLUB WHISKY IN SALES PROJECTED THE UNITED STATES Drink sales in bars and Diageo announced the restaurants are projected U.S. launch of its new to grow modestly in 2015, single grain scotch whisky, according to Technomic's Haig Club™. Developed expectations for the on- in partnership with global premise alcohol industry. icon David Beckham Conditions at major and British entrepreneur chain restaurants that Simon Fuller, the whisky serve alcohol are slowly is now available across the country. The whisky is crafted at improving, and greater consumer confidence will lead to a Scotland's oldest grain whisky distiller, Cameronbridge in Fife, more positive trend than seen in 2014. Technomic's forecasts, which traces its whisky-producing roots back to the seventeenth released via its BarTAB Report and its Adult Beverage Insights century. "I think we have made something really special. For me, Group, call for consumer expenditures on alcohol away from it has meant understanding how whisky is made and enjoyed home to rise 2.7 percent next year, a slightly greater increase and then working with some incredible people to write a new than is expected for alcohol expenditures at retail. "Conditions chapter for Haig," said Beckham. "Single grain whisky offers a are improving, and with lower gas prices and better consumer completely new flavor profile for whisky fans," said Brian Cox, confidence, we're continuing to see positive movement in Director of Scotch Whisky for Diageo North America. "Haig consumer spending away from home," states David Henkes, NAPA REDEFINED Vice President at Technomic and director of the firm's adult Club leads the way in welcoming not only a new era for Scotch, At Napa Cellars, we’re putting a modern spin on classic Napa wines, combining Napa’s legendary beverage practice. but also an exciting and appealing offering for people who are terroir with contemporary sensibilities to create delicious wines that possess all of the character new to whisky.” you’ve come to expect from Napa, but with an attitude and price that we think you’ll find rather refreshing. In doing so, we’re redefining what Napa wine can be. Cheers!

NC-2015 Bev Media Ad-Feb.indd 1 1/8/15 3:56 PM NAPA REDEFINED

At Napa Cellars, we’re putting a modern spin on classic Napa wines, combining Napa’s legendary terroir with contemporary sensibilities to create delicious wines that possess all of the character you’ve come to expect from Napa, but with an attitude and price that we think you’ll find rather refreshing. In doing so, we’re redefining what Napa wine can be. Cheers!

NC-2015 Bev Media Ad-Feb.indd 1 1/8/15 3:56 PM GUESTCOLUMN

FIND LOVE BY PUTTING THE “ALE” BACK IN “VALENTINE’S DAY” guest columnist DAVID E. RUDMAN

BY DAVID E. RUDMAN be had that won’t break the bank. Brachetto and Brunello will all seduce the palate of d’Acqui, a sweet sparkling red from Italy, is any Valentine. With any wine you serve, Ending up a shmuck on Valentine’s Day is a romantic choice and the original wine of do your research and be able to tell a story a time-honored tradition that millions of love (just ask Cleopatra). about it. Wine and the stories it tells (and people around the world enjoy annually. Of course, the sky is the limit when it comes sometimes writes!) are sexy, so be sure to But just in case you’re ready to mix things to splurging on the bubbly. You can step rise to the occasion. up and find (or keep) love this year, one up your game with Cremant from France, Wine is fine, but of course liquor is quicker. of the most important things you can do Cava from Spain, Franciacorta from Italy, But what is the true “spirit” of Valentine’s is be prepared with an appropriate arsenal or a domestic sparkler in the Methode Day? My advice is to steer clear… of clear of intoxicating beers, wines, and spirits. Traditionelle. All of these wines are made spirits. Vodka is popular, but where is the Because nothing says “you can do better in the same rich, decadent style of more romance? Love is rich and nuanced, and you than me” quite like a bottle of pinot grigio. expensive Champagnes. need a spirit that fits the bill. The richness Let’s start by putting the “Ale” back in Which brings us to Champagne: the and heat of Bourbon whiskey will keep your “Valentine’s Day” and take a look at some Mariano Rivera of Valentine’s Day. Styles Valentine warm all night and is preferable fine beer choices. Clean and crisp lagers and price points abound, but consider the to lighter Scotch and Irish whiskeys. Or and bright hoppy ales may be fashionable, sweetness level of your wine. Brut is crisp consider Cognac, the spirit of kings and but for a romantic, intimate winter’s night, and traditional but Valentine’s Day might be queens, to show your Valentine how you feel choosing a rich and decadent brew is the time to go with a demi-sec Champagne, about them. imperative. Remember that there is a reason which will be noticeably sweet. For the deepest of loves, the deepest of chocolates are a classic Valentine’s gift. If it Still wine can be an important part of your spirits are aged rums. The big, sweet flavors ain’t broke, don’t fix it: a 750 of a rich stout Valentine’s Day plan, especially if you have will transport you to a warm island locale or porter with chocolate notes will delight dinner plans. Red is the color of love, but on this February night. Any of these spirits your Valentine. If chocolate isn’t your bag, if your Valentine prefers white wine, you can help you find love this year neat or in a it is tough to go wrong with kriek or want to woo with a rich and full-bodied cocktail. For the connoisseur, a Manhattan framboise — beers brewed with cherries or white. Chardonnay is always a safe bet, with its sweet and spicy notes is the way to raspberries, respectively. The colors match but you might impress more with a wine go and can be made with any brown spirit. the holiday, and the sweetness will show off the beaten path, such as the rich white Everyone deserves to find love on your sentiment. blends of France’s Rhone Valley (viognier in Valentine’s Day! The most important thing Of course, what could be more romantic particular is a racy varietal), or similar wines is to be yourself; but a close second is having than wine for Valentine’s Day? Wine in from Australia or South Africa. the right stuff when it comes to your gifts. general is another classic gift, but there are When it comes to red, nothing is more Bonne chance! pitfalls to avoid. I recommend setting the romantic than wine from the Old World. ABOUT DRINKING THINGS is a “guide to the spirits mood for your night with a sparkling wine. Rich, spicy Spanish reds from Jumilla or of grains and fruits (and more), with a bit of the spirit of the author, just to make things interesting.” Follow However, the occasion calls for more than Ribiera del Duero, delicate and beautiful @drinkingthings on Twitter, and as “Drinking Things” an everyday Prosecco. Thinking “pink” is pinot noirs from Burgundy, France, and on Facebook and www.drinkingthings.com. Rudman is also Director of Education and Account Development advisable, and there are rosé Proseccos to Italian reds from sangiovese such as Chianti at Brescome Barton, Inc. and a Certified Sommelier.

10 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access GUESTCOLUMN THE Valentine'sFIND Day

GALLO LAUNCHES CRUSH-WORTHY COLLABORATIVE ROSE LIQUEUR FIND LOVE BY PUTTING APOTHIC EXTENSION TO BENEFIT BREAST CANCER RESEARCH Just in time for Valentine’s Day, E. & J. Speed Rack, an all-female speed-bartending competition THE “ALE” BACK IN Gallo is launching Apothic Crush 2013 created by bar industry leaders Ivy Mix and Lynnette as an addition to the Apothic line. A Marrero, has been gaining international notoriety since “VALENTINE’S DAY” seasonal release following on the heels it first kicked off. Now, as the fourth season gets guest columnist of Q4’s Apothic Dark, Crush goes in underway around the U.S., the founders of Speed Rack DAVID E. RUDMAN a surprising direction, combining the have teamed up with Giffard Liqueurs to launch Speed darkness and structure of Petite Sirah Rack Black Rose Liqueur, an all-natural Crème de with the subtle and floral aromatics Rose liqueur. Petals of Moroccan Rosa Damascena are BY DAVID E. RUDMAN be had that won’t break the bank. Brachetto and Brunello will all seduce the palate of of Pinot Noir. The palate includes macerated in neutral beet spirit to extract their delicate d’Acqui, a sweet sparkling red from Italy, is any Valentine. With any wine you serve, chocolate-covered strawberry notes and aroma and flavor. Net proceeds will be donated in Ending up a shmuck on Valentine’s Day is a romantic choice and the original wine of do your research and be able to tell a story features the signature Apothic smooth support of breast cancer awareness and education; st a time-honored tradition that millions of love (just ask Cleopatra). about it. Wine and the stories it tells (and texture. Available February 1 as a available in all Speed Rack competition markets, national limited edition, at SRP $14. including NY, NJ, CT, IL, TX, CA, WA & CO, with more people around the world enjoy annually. Of course, the sky is the limit when it comes sometimes writes!) are sexy, so be sure to apothic.com to come. SRP $34.99; 40 proof. speed-rack.com But just in case you’re ready to mix things to splurging on the bubbly. You can step rise to the occasion. up and find (or keep) love this year, one up your game with Cremant from France, Wine is fine, but of course liquor is quicker. of the most important things you can do Cava from Spain, Franciacorta from Italy, But what is the true “spirit” of Valentine’s ROMANCE ON THE ( ) MENU is be prepared with an appropriate arsenal or a domestic sparkler in the Methode Day? My advice is to steer clear… of clear Cocktail of intoxicating beers, wines, and spirits. Traditionelle. All of these wines are made spirits. Vodka is popular, but where is the Because nothing says “you can do better in the same rich, decadent style of more romance? Love is rich and nuanced, and you than me” quite like a bottle of pinot grigio. expensive Champagnes. need a spirit that fits the bill. The richness Let’s start by putting the “Ale” back in Which brings us to Champagne: the and heat of Bourbon whiskey will keep your With Valentine’s Day on the calendar, Cognac in the U.S. is red-hot—up 12% It seems fi gs have been making “Valentine’s Day” and take a look at some Mariano Rivera of Valentine’s Day. Styles Valentine warm all night and is preferable romantic spirits and cocktails will in IRI channels in 2014. Premis brings a “top ten aphrodisiac” lists be in vogue all month. Since sexy new twist to the genre, with a VSOP forever. Some historians fine beer choices. Clean and crisp lagers and price points abound, but consider the to lighter Scotch and Irish whiskeys. Or diamonds are still a girl’s best called Legened, and Premis VS Pink, argue that the soft, fl eshy sweetness level of your wine. Brut is crisp consider Cognac, the spirit of kings and and bright hoppy ales may be fashionable, friend, this Russian Diamond an eau-de-vie developed by a female fi g, not the apple, was the but for a romantic, intimate winter’s night, and traditional but Valentine’s Day might be queens, to show your Valentine how you feel Vodka cocktail is is a good bet chemist and designed to appeal to women original, true forbidden fruit choosing a rich and decadent brew is the time to go with a demi-sec Champagne, about them. to make the holiday memorable. with its fruity-floral character. Distibution in the Garden of Eden. This imperative. Remember that there is a reason which will be noticeably sweet. For the deepest of loves, the deepest of began in NY and GA; SC, MI & FL being much is certain: Figenza added in 2015 Q1. captures true fi g fl avor, chocolates are a classic Valentine’s gift. If it Still wine can be an important part of your spirits are aged rums. The big, sweet flavors DIAMOND making it a mixologist’s go-to will transport you to a warm island locale ain’t broke, don’t fix it: a 750 of a rich stout Valentine’s Day plan, especially if you have ESPRESSO for exotic drinks. or porter with chocolate notes will delight dinner plans. Red is the color of love, but on this February night. Any of these spirits MARTINI PINK HEART your Valentine. If chocolate isn’t your bag, if your Valentine prefers white wine, you can help you find love this year neat or in a 1½ oz Russian Diamond Vodka 2 oz Premis VS Pink Cognac ¾ oz Kahlúa 5 oz Strawberry Lemon Drop THE BUTTERFLY it is tough to go wrong with kriek or want to woo with a rich and full-bodied cocktail. For the connoisseur, a Manhattan ¾ oz Bailey’s Irish Cream Syrup by Unique Syrups MARTINI with its sweet and spicy notes is the way to 2 oz freshly brewed espresso coffee framboise — beers brewed with cherries or white. Chardonnay is always a safe bet, 3 Lemon slices 2 oz Figenza Fig Vodka Frothed Milk raspberries, respectively. The colors match but you might impress more with a wine go and can be made with any brown spirit. 1 oz Elderfl ower Liqueur Chocolate-covered Espresso Combine Cognac and syrup in 1 oz Pomegranate juice the holiday, and the sweetness will show off the beaten path, such as the rich white Everyone deserves to find love on Beans for garnish a mixing glass with ice; shake Splash of Champagne your sentiment. blends of France’s Rhone Valley (viognier in Valentine’s Day! The most important thing and strain over lemon slices Lemon wheel Of course, what could be more romantic particular is a racy varietal), or similar wines is to be yourself; but a close second is having Pour ingredients into into snifter, martini for garnish an iced mixing glass. than wine for Valentine’s Day? Wine in from Australia or South Africa. the right stuff when it comes to your gifts. or rocks glass. Garnish Shake contents and strain with sliced strawberry Combine ingredients, general is another classic gift, but there are When it comes to red, nothing is more Bonne chance! into chilled cocktail glass. on a stick. shake well and serve pitfalls to avoid. I recommend setting the romantic than wine from the Old World. ABOUT DRINKING THINGS is a “guide to the spirits Spoon on a layer of frothed milk straight up in a martini glass. mood for your night with a sparkling wine. Rich, spicy Spanish reds from Jumilla or of grains and fruits (and more), with a bit of the spirit and garnish with chocolate covered Garnish with lemon. of the author, just to make things interesting.” Follow espresso beans. However, the occasion calls for more than Ribiera del Duero, delicate and beautiful @drinkingthings on Twitter, and as “Drinking Things” an everyday Prosecco. Thinking “pink” is pinot noirs from Burgundy, France, and on Facebook and www.drinkingthings.com. Rudman is also Director of Education and Account Development advisable, and there are rosé Proseccos to Italian reds from sangiovese such as Chianti at Brescome Barton, Inc. and a Certified Sommelier.

February 2015 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL 11 COCKTAILCORNER

WINTER WARMER- UPPERS PRAIRIE GIN(GERBREAD) TODDY

or those not living palpably *SPICED STOUT SYRUP: close to the Equator, February Cognac’s snifter-by-the- 12 oz Anderson Valley “Barney Flats” means 28 shades of cold, give ﬁ replace days are feeling Oatmeal Stout ½ cup Sugar (granulated) pretty 20th century these or take. Bitter cold. Raw cold. 2 whole Cloves WetF cold. There is no real antidote, but days, but the spirit’s in- 1 Cinnamon stick warming cocktails can certainly provide herent inner warmth re- ¼ tsp Allspice powder welcome temporary relief, whether they mains. This shot is made Zest ¼ Lemon are physically hot or just built on rich, with Hennessy Black Juice of ½ Lemon warming spirits. In a stainless saucepan, combine all BLACK MAPLE ingredients; bring to a simmer for 20 1 oz Hennessy Black minutes. Let cool and strain. ¼ oz Maple Syrup Top with Club Soda

Method: Method: add Hennessy and Maple Here is a wintry drink with Midwestern Syrup ingredients with ice to a shaker tin, roots. Prairie Organic Spirits are made shake until chilled and strain into a shot “from seed to glass” by family farmers from glass top with soda the Midwest prairie (where it gets really, really cold).

Mulled Cider is a winter classic. At Nick’s PRAIRIE GIN(GERBREAD) TODDY Cove, a conclave of cottages, restaurant ¼ cup boiling Water and oyster bar on the foggy banks of To- 1 oz Gingerbread syrup* males Bay about an hour north of San 2 oz Prairie Organic Gin This multi-faceted take on hot chocolate, Francisco, bartender Danny Martin de- 1 oz Lemon or Orange juice based on Barón Tequila, was created at vised this version, taking advantage of Bodega Negra at the Dream Hotel Down- local cider and stout. Fill cup with boiling water and stir in town in NYC. Their house-made hot gingerbread syrup until dissolved, then add gin and juice. Garnish with a cinnamon stick. chocolate is not for the faint-of-palate— HOT SPICED APPLE it’s made with whole milk, chipotle chil- 1½ oz Blackwell Dark Rum es, cinnamon, cloves and brown sugar. ¾ oz Spiced Stout Syrup* *GINGERBREAD SYRUP: 1 cup local Apple Cider 1 cup Dark Brown Sugar 1 cup Water SPIKED MEXICAN Heavy Cream, slightly whipped Cinnamon stick garnish 1 Tbsp Molasses HOT CHOCOLATE 1 tsp Cinnamon 1½ oz Barón Tequila Fill a footed mug with hot water to pre- ½ tsp Ginger (ground) ½ oz Crème de Cacao heat it, then empty. Steam the apple cider ½ tsp Nutmeg 2 dashes Chocolate Bitters ¼ tsp Allspice 3 oz House Hot Chocolate and pour into the warm glass until it is Vanilla Whipped Cream about ¾ full. Add the rum and stout syrup and stir to combine. Top with a collar of Combine ingredients in a pan. Heat to Served warm in a snifter with candy cane the whipped cream by pouring gently boiling while whisking until all the powder and crushed candy cane sprinkles…and milk over the back of a spoon. Serve hot with a substances dissolve. Boil for 2-3 minutes so chocolate scorpion on the side. cinnamon stick for garnish. syrup thickens.

12 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access BRINGINGBRINGING YOUYOU THETHE TASTETASTE OFOF

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AW NZ Brands Beverage Network CT-NJ Ad_2015.indd 1 1/9/15 4:16 PM AROUNDTOWN

YANKEE DISCOUNT LIQUOR HOSTS HOLIDAY TASTINGS

During the fall and winter holiday season, Yankee Discount Liquor in East Haven hosted several brand education sessions for its customers in its educational classroom with representatives from Brescome Barton and Connecticut Distributors, Inc. Whiskies, wine and beer were the featured topics.

1. The Jack Daniel’s family of Tennessee whiskies was featured during one of two Thanksgiving-time tastings on November 1 2 21, 2014. The class, led by Brown-Forman state manager Tom Kachmarck, covered how the famous bourbon is made and featured tastings including the single barrel. 2. The Jack Daniel’s brand tasting lineup. 3. A November 22, 2014 tasting was held with Veronica Saurett, wine and account development manager from Brescome Barton. The evening featured wines from different parts of the U.S. and abroad, leading up to the highlight of the night, a tasting of The Calling, a Pinot Noir from Dutton Ranch in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley. Deepak Pattani, Owner, Yankee Discount Liquor; Veronica Saurett, Wine and Account 3 Development Manager, Brescome Barton; and Store Manager Babu Ram Khatiwada, Yankee Discount Liquor. 4. On December 19, 2014, Danielle Keating, District Manager, New England of Francis Ford Coppola Winery came from Boston along with Sales Representative John Markle from Connecticut Distributors, Inc., to educate a class about Coppola’s wines. The group learned about the Director’s Cut line of whites and reds, and the winery’s limited-production proprietary blend, Cinema. Store Manager Babu Khatiwada; Owner Deepak Pattani; Danielle Keating; and CDI’s John Markle. 5. A Yuengling beer tasting and comparison class was held 4 the following day on December 20, 2014. Jeff Payne, Sales Representative from Star Distributors, along with Lauren Terrino from Yuengling, explained the different steps of beer brewing followed by a taste comparison between beer brands.

HOLIDAY TOY DRIVE AT BRESCOME BARTON CONTRIBUTES TO LOCAL CAUSE

Brescome Barton and We Are the Children held a “Stuff a Truck” Toy Drive at its North Haven location on December 12, 2014. Friends, accounts and suppliers dropped off donations of new and unwrapped toys for the 29th Annual We Are the Children Christmas Party. We Are the Children is an organization founded in 1985 by radio personality Gary Craig.

14 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access for complimentary savorct.comVisit trade tickets and discounted rates

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Robert Irvine, Host Chef Donatella Beau Arpaia MacMillan

Steve Prasad Mary Ann Elizabeth Billy Franck Ryan Jeffrey Cavagnaro Chirnomula Esposito Falkner Grant Iglesias Jones Lizotte Introducing Savor, a two-day celebration, spotlighting notable chefs and world-renowned vintners – sample delectable dishes from top CT restaurants, stylish wines, world-craft beers and inspired spirits, all are included in the single cost of admission!

Sponsored by: A portion of Savor’s proceeds benefit: R.Murphy SINCE Knives 1850 Made in USA

For tickets and more event information, visit savorct.com AROUNDTOWN

BRESCOME BARTON HOSTS WINE TASTING AT WINVIAN

Brescome Barton hosted its first Litchfield County Wine Festival for customers at Winvian in Morris on December 14, 2014. Winvian’s country setting framed the tasting of premium wines from the Brescome Barton portfolio.

1 1. David Rudman, Director of Education and Account Development, Brescome Barton; Sarah Alokones, Divisional Sales Manager, Brescome Barton; and Don Cameron, Sales Representative, Brescome Barton. 2. Daniel Kemp, Wine Director, Brescome Barton and guests. 3. Cara Lynch-Passarelli, Account Development Manager, Brescome Barton. 4. Edward Dunn, Account Development Manager, Brescome Barton. 5. Michael Murphy, Account Development Manager, Brescome 2 Barton. 6. An accompaniment to the wines.

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16 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access AROUNDTOWN

BRESCOME BARTON HOSTS WINE TASTING AT WINVIAN

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6 www.thebeveragejournal.com AROUNDTOWN

OVERSHORES HOSTS HOLIDAY BASH FOR ITS GRAND OPENING

East Haven’s Overshores Brewing Co., Connecticut’s first and only dedicated Belgian style brewery, hosted its Grand Opening Holiday Bash on December 13, 2014. The free admission event featured live music, Belgian beer specials and limited edition beers, brewery tours of the new East Haven facility, giveaways and food trucks The Whey Station, High Tide Gourmet and the Cannoli Truck. “This has been an exciting year [for] Overshores, as each of our 1 2 five signature and award-winning Belgian style beers have become available in Connecticut and then Washington, D.C.,” said Christian Amport, founder and president of Overshores Brewing Co. “Our Grand Opening Holiday Party is a chance to celebrate with our loyal fans and to welcome our new friends.”

1. Overshores grand opening beer garden. 2. Head Brewer Brian Cox in the tasting room. 3. Overshores’ President Christian Amport with guests.

VITONE FAMILY WINES ANNOUNCES DISTRIBUTION PARTNERSHIP

Christian Vitone, founder and CEO of Vitone Family Wines and Avon, Conn. native, has teamed with Worldwide Wines/ Brescome Barton to introduce his Verde Sole brand of California wines to the local market. The company’s wines are handcrafted by renowned California winemaker Marco Cappelli, in the Sierra Foothills. They include a Zinfandel blend, Petite Sirah, unoaked Chardonnay and a Calaveras County Pinot Grigio. Vitone formally entered the wine industry on the sales side, with national distributor Southern Wine and 1 Spirits, and later turned to the retail side, working alongside Francis Ford Coppola at his Niebaum-Coppola Estate. Vitone Family Wines is headquartered in Amherst, NH.

1. Christian Vitone, founder and CEO of Vitone Family Wines. 2. Vitone Family Wines was founded in 2010 by Vitone, who acquired an appreciation for viniculture at the age of 14, making wine with his grandfather, a WWI Italian Army veteran and mutual fan of the 1920’s Art Deco style symbolized on the Verde Sole labels.

18 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access AROUNDTOWN

USBG CT CHAPTER ELECTS 2015 OFFICERS

The United States Bartenders Guild Connecticut (USBG CT) chapter announced its 2015 leadership team for the new year: Dimitrios Zahariadis, Chapter President; Carl Summa, Vice President; Adam Kindilien, Secretary; and Paul Mazurek, reelected as Treasurer. The USBG CT chapter hosts an array of beverage industry events and educational sessions with beverage suppliers, as well as participating in regional, national and international industry events to further the profession and craft of bartending. Connecticut bar and industry professionals interested in joining the local chapter can visit usbg.org to learn more.

USBG CT’s Dimitrios Zahariadis, Chapter President and Carl Summa, Vice President. The duo also works together as The Cocktail Chemists, shown here in a September 2014 event at Prime One Eleven in Trumbull.

ANGELINI WINE IMPORTS LAUNCHES TAGAVINE WINE CLUB

Julius and Paul Angelini, owners of Angelini Wine Imports of Centerbrook, Conn. and Angelini Estate Winery in Marche, Italy launched the Angelini Estate TagAVine Wine Club found at www.tagavine.com. TagAVine members “get the perks of winery ownership without the hassle” by choosing the vines and the corresponding wine from Angelini’s Marche Estate. Angelini wines are comprised of three varietals: Sangiovese, Merlot and Pergola Rosso. The five different wines are created from these varietals and will be released once a year; at which time a participating retailer will contact the member for pick up and purchase. Vine “owners” will also receive periodic pictures and information detailing the evolution of the vines and the wines among other features, including exclusive members-only tastings.

Members receive an official certificate issued on authentic Italian paper “Carta di Fabbriano” detailing their vineyard, row and vine number(s).

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CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL RAISES $20,000 FOR HISTORICAL SHAKESPEARE THEATRE

Stratford’s ShakesBeer Festival presented the Town of Stratford with a check for $20,000 on December 30, 2014. The second annual festival was held on the grounds of the historical Shakespeare Theatre with an eye on raising enough funds for reconstruction of the iconic building. Steven Bilodeau, co-organizer of the summer craft beer festival and manager at Wines Unlimited, seeks to raise 1 necessary funds for reopening the 1,500-seat facility through the craft beer festival, which featured craft beer makers from across Connecticut. Raising money for the theatre, which held its last production in 1989 and was an artistic hub for such actors as Audrey Hepburn, Christopher Walken and James Earl Jones, is a goal for Bilodeau. A town committee is currently looking at proposals. The third annual ShakesBeer Festival will be held in August 2015.

1. Steven Bilodeau used social media to help promote the cause from the festival grounds. He said the historical landmark could “again be [a] profitable venture” and a focal point for both the people of Stratford and members of stage 2 and screen. 2. Over 1,000 people attended the summer craft beer festival. The Shakespeare Theatre is in the backrgound. 3. A festival pint glass with logo, designed by Serg Chernata. 4. Steven Bilodeau with Pete Rodrigues, manager of Captain’s Keg also in Stratford. The two worked together to make ShakesBeer a community success.

3 4

CONNECTICUT BARTENDER WINS ONLINE RECIPE CONTEST

In December, Connecticut bartender Jason Snopkoski of Mezón Tapas Bar & Restaurant in Danbury won ShakeStir’s monthly Flash Cocktail Competition against a field of New York City, New Jersey and Connecticut bartenders. ShakeStir is an online community for bartenders that hosts the competition every month in the tri-state area. The process is simple: bartenders submit original recipes online, under set parameters, within 48-hours of announcing the competition via www.shakestir.com. Snopkoski, a recent Bar Ready graduate of the B.A.R. Advanced Spirits and Mixology certification, is the first contestant from the state to win the $500 cash prize for the tri-state market. ShakeStir partner Andy Seymour said, “Jason represents himself and his community by being passionate about his craft and dedicated to raising the bar for cocktails, without ever losing sight of true hospitality.”

Snopkoski won with a punch-style drink with five elements of spirit, citrus, sugar, water and spice and called it “5 Wise Men.”

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DIAGEO NORWALK EMPLOYEES PARTICIPATE IN COMMUNITY HOLIDAY GIVING

Employees from Diageo’s North American headquarters in Norwalk gave back this holiday season by participating in a variety of volunteer programs throughout Fairfi eld County. The ﬂ agship event for the company in Connecticut is its annual “Diageo 100” program, during which more than 100 local employees host a holiday party for local children at the Stepping Stones Museum for Children in Norwalk. Each year the company hosts hundreds of children from diff erent community organizations. This year’s event benefi tted fi ve local charities including the Norwalk Housing Authority, the South Norwalk Community Center, Family & Children’s Agency, Achieve and After the Bell. Diageo also participated in a “Toys for Tots” drive and employees volunteered at a “pop-up toy store” at local agency Person-to-Person as well. Volunteers assisted in setting up the store, which is a place where families “shopped” for a free gift and book for their child.

Diageo employees pose with the giant Lite-Brite™ exhibit at the Stepping Stones Museum for Children in Norwalk. Over 100 Diageo volunteers worked directly with groups of underprivileged children during the holiday party.

WALLINGFORD-BASED CORDIAL NOW IN CDI’S PORTFOLIO

Polly & Joan’s Cordial Co. of Wallingford, Conn. began shipping its all new line of whole-cluster fresh fruit and clear-fi ltered handcrafted cordials eff ective February 1, 2015. The family and woman-owned company is introducing its P&J Cold- Soaked Berries and P&J Cold-Soaked Peaches, in distribution partnership with Connecticut Distributors, Inc. (CDI).

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22 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access The Voice of the Retail Liquor Industry in Connecticut

CPSA fights for you in the halls of the Capitol by communicating the great benefit small businesses such as yours offer to the framework of the CT economy and the service and products you provide to your WHAT VICTORIES HAVE WE HAD? customers. In the past few legislative sessions we have had to turn back Fought against wine in food stores, against repeal of several legislative initiatives that could have decimated your business minimum bottle, against increasing the permit limit and the product selection you offer your customers. from three to nine, against grocery stores owning The Connecticut Package Stores Association (CPSA) is YOUR trade package stores and beer permits, against quantity organization that promotes retailer interests across the state. We discounting, against increased hours, etc.. will always fight legislation that negatively affects your business and Now is the time to send in your membership dues advocate for legislation that makes your business better. We are the which we use to support these efforts. CPSA has a only entity at the capitol that advocates 100% for package stores. team of lobbyists that communicate every day to legislators from both parties when the legislature is in We need you to join! session. This takes a tremendous amount of work and For $350 you can help us continue to fight. we need you to help support that effort.

APPLICATION FORM

Name

Business Name

Address

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Phone Email

Store Contact Name

Credit Card Number Exp. Date

PRINT an application from our website: www.ctpsa.com CALL us at FAX this page to OR OR and mail your check to: 700 Plaza Middlesex, 860.346.7978 860.346.7978 Middletown, CT 06457 RETAILREVIEW Horseneck Wines & Liquors BY BOB SAMPLE

n a wealthy town where most residents truly can afford to shop anywhere, I Horseneck Wines and Liquors gives its customers a rare degree of personal attention to keep them loyal.

“Because I don’t have family in this area, LOCATION my customers are my family,” said Theresa 25 EAST PUTNAM AVENEUE Rogers, who grew up in the Adirondacks GREENWICH, CT and has owned the Greenwich establishment FACTS since 1989. “They know I’ll take care of them as I would my own family. That is how I’ve SQUARE FOOTAGE: 1,640 built my business, one customer at a time.” YEARS IN OPERATION: 81 (26 UNDER CURRENT MANAGEMENT) About 85 percent of Horseneck’s sales are wines, and the wood-floored shop has tables and racks laden with bottles of every year, established clients. The initial years were a vintage and country of origin. Rogers spent a “tough balancing act,” in Rogers’ view. decade in the fine wines division of Heublein While the store carries a modest selection in New York. In 1984 she purchased her of beers, Horseneck does not cater to beer first store, Connecticut Liquors, on nearby connoisseurs. “With beer, tastes change so King Street in Greenwich. She sold that rapidly that your selection can never be quite store in 2005. big enough – and besides, beers can go bad. Under Rogers’ stewardship, Horseneck has Wine and spirits do not,” she explained. undergone some major shifts. She brought The store’s wines range in price from $8 to in newer wines to attract younger customers, $3,000 a bottle. The average person planning 2,000 people. Her style is newsy, personable while keeping old standards on hand for a party selects multiple bottles in the $10-15 and informal in tone. range, while bottles in the $20 to $30 range Rogers and her team take a similar, highly are the store’s biggest individual sellers. personal approach to advising people on What’s evident at any price, Rogers says, is wine. “We always start by asking a lot of the quality of the wines she carries. She and questions,” said Rogers. “How old is this her staff taste everything that comes into the person? What do they like to eat? Do they store. Rogers travels to California three times have any favorite types of wine? Are they apt each year, and to France every other year. “I try to be adventurous – or more conservative in to visit winemakers in their own vineyards or what they choose to drink?” cellars,” remarked Rogers. “When I do that, “The concept I have here works anywhere,” Store owner Theresa Rogers they show me the best wines they make.” said Rogers. “Smile. Always be friendly. The store takes part in frequent town-wide And even when things go wrong, keep the events, and Horseneck’s website has given it atmosphere in the store happy and fun. an international presence. Rogers also pens That’s the kind of place customers will want an email newsletter that she distributes to to be.” ■

If you own a small, medium or megastore and would like to be featured, email: [email protected]

24 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access RETAILREVIEW BEERCOLUMN Horseneck Wines & Liquors PLAYING HARD TO GET BY BOB SAMPLE BY JACK KENNY n a wealthy town where most residents truly can afford to shop anywhere, Back in the day, hardy folks would drive from the East Coast to Something happened in late I Horseneck Wines and Liquors gives its the remote kingdom of Colorado on a high-minded quest: to bring December that struck me as a customers a rare degree of personal attention home the legendary Coors beer. By the time I got around to tasting bit unusual. I’m beginning to to keep them loyal. some it was already being distributed in these parts, so I missed suspect that some of these committed devotees are following the out on the thrill shared by the great pioneers. There’s always a beer delivery trucks. I’ve been selling beer at retail for the past two “Because I don’t have family in this area, LOCATION my customers are my family,” said Theresa that is hard to get and challenging to find. The people who long or three years and I’ve never known customers to come into the 25 EAST PUTNAM AVENEUE Rogers, who grew up in the Adirondacks GREENWICH, CT for it tend to be younger rather than older, and the beers they seek store and tell me that the Gandhi Bot, the Imperial Stout Trooper and has owned the Greenwich establishment tend to be India pale ales, or double IPAs. and Lawson’s Sip of Sunshine is on the truck heading to the store FACTS since 1989. “They know I’ll take care of them “Do you have Heady Topper?” What off-premise retailer has not today, right now. That was at two o’clock on a Thursday. Sure SQUARE FOOTAGE: 1,640 as I would my own family. That is how I’ve heard this question countless times? Heady Topper is a double enough, the truck from Star Distributors arrived five minutes later. built my business, one customer at a time.” YEARS IN OPERATION: 81 IPA brewed by The Alchemist in Waterbury, VT, and it used to For the next seven hours this peculiar group of customers came (26 UNDER CURRENT MANAGEMENT) About 85 percent of Horseneck’s sales are be available by the case at the brewery, but no more. After Heady through the door with that look; that certain pitch of nerve, the wines, and the wood-floored shop has tables Topper was rated No. 1 in the world by Beer Advocate, the crowds tightness in the voice. One woman said she and her husband had and racks laden with bottles of every year, established clients. The initial years were a began to gather, production rose from 30 to 180 barrels weekly, been to 11 other stores from Middletown to Norwalk in search vintage and country of origin. Rogers spent a “tough balancing act,” in Rogers’ view. and neighbors grew unhappy. The brewery owners decided to of these beers. One young couple came in the following day to decade in the fine wines division of Heublein While the store carries a modest selection manage their risk by closing their doors to the public. get more. Informed that we had sold out, they got noticeably (and in New York. In 1984 she purchased her of beers, Horseneck does not cater to beer Today it’s available at bars and stores throughout northern audibly) upset and stalked out empty-handed. first store, Connecticut Liquors, on nearby connoisseurs. “With beer, tastes change so Vermont only. A quick visit to the website will tell you that. But Lawson’s Sip of Sunshine is an intensely hoppy IPA from Warren, King Street in Greenwich. She sold that rapidly that your selection can never be quite these young hipsters, with their nimble thumbs and apps, don’t do VT, and it is contract brewed and canned at Two Roads in store in 2005. big enough – and besides, beers can go bad. that. Instead they drive to their retailer in Connecticut and Rhode Stratford. Gandhi Bot and Stout Trooper are from New England Under Rogers’ stewardship, Horseneck has Wine and spirits do not,” she explained. Island to get their disappointment. Brewing in Woodbridge, CT. All fine beers, but they appear undergone some major shifts. She brought The store’s wines range in price from $8 to Serious IPA hunters have an unusual thirst for hops. They will on shelves – at least in Fairfield County – irregularly, if at all. in newer wines to attract younger customers, $3,000 a bottle. The average person planning 2,000 people. Her style is newsy, personable visit off-premise stores weekly and ask if anything new has arrived. The brewer probably wants to keep them hard to get, to keep while keeping old standards on hand for a party selects multiple bottles in the $10-15 and informal in tone. When they are informed that, say, Sierra Nevada Hoptimum has the mystique alive. It’s getting a bit old, however, to say no to range, while bottles in the $20 to $30 range Rogers and her team take a similar, highly made its yearly appearance, they wave a hand and say, “I’ve had customers 15 times a day, only to be asked “Are you sure?” and told are the store’s biggest individual sellers. personal approach to advising people on that. What else?” There are weeks, as we know, when nothing to “go check in the back.” What’s evident at any price, Rogers says, is wine. “We always start by asking a lot of “new” arrives through receiving. Yet here they come, about to get If these beers become available on a more regular basis, I the quality of the wines she carries. She and questions,” said Rogers. “How old is this their hopes crushed again. predict that this addict-like behavior will refocus on some her staff taste everything that comes into the person? What do they like to eat? Do they other brand whose appearance is uncertain. I call it the Flower store. Rogers travels to California three times have any favorite types of wine? Are they apt Power Syndrome. each year, and to France every other year. “I try to be adventurous – or more conservative in A couple of years ago when Ithaca Flower Power IPA was hard to to visit winemakers in their own vineyards or what they choose to drink?” get in our parts, folks would yearn for it daily, and stores would cellars,” remarked Rogers. “When I do that, “The concept I have here works anywhere,” ration their supply when it arrived. Eventually, when Ithaca began Store owner Theresa Rogers they show me the best wines they make.” said Rogers. “Smile. Always be friendly. shipping a lot more to area stores and supply was bountiful, The store takes part in frequent town-wide And even when things go wrong, keep the consumption tapered off. Human behavior. events, and Horseneck’s website has given it atmosphere in the store happy and fun. an international presence. Rogers also pens That’s the kind of place customers will want an email newsletter that she distributes to to be.” ■ ABOUT JACK KENNY Jack Kenny has been writing The Beer Column for The Connecticut WRITE TO HIM If you own a small, medium or megastore and would like to be featured, Beverage Journal since 1995. [email protected] email: [email protected]

February 2015 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL 25 SERVINGUP BEHIND THE BAR: THE UNCERTAINTY OF THE CUT OFF BY DAVID T. KRATT

155 ALAIN WHITE ROAD There’s only one thing worse than having 2. I served another drink to the good MORRIS, CT to cut off a customer; it’s when you’re not regular, but said, “I’m worried about sure whether you should. you driving home.” He said, “I know. Here are a few situations where I was not I called my wife to pick me up.” so sure what to do: 3. To me, “One more and I gotta go,” 1. The customer who said he was is a trap because it leads you to believe intoxicated. When I asked him that the customer will leave after what he would like to drink, he said, that drink. I had already served him “I don’t know. I’m getting pretty one more than I wanted to; being drunk.” He didn’t act drunk at all. I a friend of my boss probably had said, “Don’t tell me that.” something to do with that. He didn’t like getting cut off. The award- 2. The good regular. He’s a good tipper winning, Zagat- and I’m always glad to see him. That 4. I told the last call guys that they might rated Winvian is night, he had a little more to drink not have enough time to drink what a 113-acre luxury than usual. To me, he acted totally they ordered; hoping that would resort located in Morris, renowned for its custom cottages, dining, spa and sober, but I knew how much he had work. It didn’t. So I said, “What have grounds. Its restaurant serves farm-to- to drink. you guys been up to tonight?” They table specialties with an extensive wine just got off work. And they ended up selection from 13 countries, including 3. The boss’s friend. A good friend of talking more than drinking and both sustainable, organic and biodynamic my boss kept on saying, “One more varieties. Handcrafted cocktails reflect left a full drink. seasonal tastes. and I gotta go.” 5. Groups of customers are tough 4. Last call plus. A couple new customers because you have to make the call with BARTENDER: Jessica Olsen ordered two cocktails each for last call many customers, not just one or two. COCKTAIL: Apple Old Fashioned and then one of the guys said, “Let’s I’ll serve them, but will keep an eye RECIPE: get a shot, too.” Red flag! on them because there usually seems • Three thin slices of apple to be that one customer overdoing it. 5. The party group. Groups will • One teaspoon of nutmeg Once detected, I will not serve him reconvene and party on at your bar • ½ teaspoon of sugar another drink, even with the group • Three dashes of bitters after leaving house parties and other pressure of, “Don’t worry; we’ll get • Splash of club soda bars. That’s a good thing. But what if • 1 ½ ounces of Bushel & Barrel him home okay.” it crosses your mind that the group bourbon may be on a little bit too much of Sometimes it’s hard to detect an intoxicated Muddle the apples, nutmeg, sugar, a roll? customer; not to mention the complicating bitters and club soda in an old fashion factors. You will make mistakes. I’ve had to glass. Add ice, bourbon and stir. How would you handle these situations? yank drinks after realizing that I messed up. Here is what I ended up doing: But one thing is for sure, you never serve Food and Beverage Manager Stefano another drink because you just don’t want Middei noted, “This cocktail is very 1. I put an ice water in front of the warming without being overly harsh like a customer who said he was drunk to deal with cutting someone off. You do traditional Old Fashioned. The apple and and said, “I’ll be right back.” He left what you have to do. nutmeg notes give it a slight sweetness before I had to cut him off. that makes it very easy to drink in front of Please send correspondence to: a fire after a long cold winter day.” [email protected] or P.O. Box 638, Grand Haven, Michigan 49417

26 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access BY THE NUMBERS

Gallo survey: a window 2014: A Very Good the best year in their history. on wine drinkers Restaurants remain important Year (for Wineries)? for higher-priced wines. Wineries A recent survey of 1,001 frequent According to Silicon Valley overall reported that wine drinkers by E. & J. Gallo Winery Bank’s (SVB) annual 31% of sales came had some interesting findings about survey, with 582 from restaurants; Americans’ wine drinking attitudes and wineries responding, but wines less than behaviors. Among them: 79% claimed 2014 was a $15 sold only about “good” year, compared 15% on-premise a ■ While two-thirds of American wine to 14% claiming to while wines over $69 drinkers admit to buying a wine have had a year of sold 40% through the based on its label, 76% say that taste “treading water” and restaurant channel. is the most important factor when it only 7% calling 2014 a And in the wake of comes to buying it again. “disappointing” year. Central 2014’s drought: 63% of Coast, Lodi/Delta Counties, wineries said they had ■ Box wine is gaining respect: 58% negligible or no issues as of wine drinkers indicated that they Napa County and Sonoma a result; 37% said they had some have bought box wine. A desire for County had the highest number of convenience also has wine drinkers wineries reporting that they had or significant issues. expressing favorable views of screw- tops, Tetra Paks and 187ml bottles.

■ More than half of younger drinkers Bubbles Outpaced Restaurants Serve Up (25-40) participate in conversations Still Wine Last Year Big Quarter about wine on social media; and The wine market’s two-decade roll Restaurants finished strong in 2014, nearly half report paying attention to slowed to a crawl in 2014 according notching December as their best month bloggers. to Impact Databank, growing 0.3% of same-store sales in the last eight years (up 4.6%), Nation’s Restaurant ■ Not surprisingly, Moscato and to a volume of 322 million 9L cases. sparkling wines are particularly Sparkling wine grew a healthy 3% in News reported. Lower gas prices and popular among wine drinkers volume, however, to 16 million cases, higher employment were cited as prime under 40. Many reported that they with imports growing faster than factors. Overall restaurant industry sales are popping bottles of bubbly for domestic brands. Prosecco was the grew 0.8% in 2014, a welcome turnaround everyday occasions. hottest imported bubbly, led by Mionetto, from the 0.1% decline in 2013. Another La Marca, Zonin and Riondo. Freixenet bright spot: not counting 2014 Q1, which ■ Wine is getting more casual: 81% Cava and Bacardi’s Martini & Rossi was bardened by bad weather across of those surveyed agreed that you Asti are the largest-volume the country, same-store sales grew 1.3% don’t need a special occasion to imported sparkling wines. for the rest of the year. The robust finish enjoy wine. The top three activities Sparkling wines to 2014 bodes well for this year. that accompany wine drinking represent about a 5% include eating a meal at home, share of the U.S. wine relaxing indoors and watching TV. Prosecco = Boom market. Last year Working on five years of solid growth, was the sixth year that ■ Younger drinkers (25-40) are Prosecco sales rose 32% in experimenting in ways previous sparkling wines grew the 12-month period ending generations did not: 66% reported since bottoming December 6th, according to mixing wine with fruit or fruit juice; out in 2008 with Nielsen. Sales of Prosecco 51% make a wine cocktail; 46% drink the onset of the priced between $10 and $15 wine over ice; 27% occasionally even financial crisis. now accounts for one-third of drink wine in a cup with a straw. all sparkling wine sales. ■

February 2015 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL 27 BEVERAGEJOURNAL online

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STATE OF CONNECTICUT DEPARTMENT OF REVENUE SERVICES 25 SIGOURNEY ST. HARTFORD, CT 06106 KEVINSTATE B. SULLIVAN, OF CONNECTICUT COMMISSIONER DEPARTMENT OF REVENUE SERVICES 25 SIGOURNEY ST. HARTFORD, CT 06106 COMPARATIVE STATEMENTKEVIN OF ALCOHOLIC B. SULLIVAN, BEVERAGE COMMISSIONER SALES FOR THE MONTH OF JULY 2014 AND JULY 2013 INDICATED BY REVENUES OF AUGUST 2014 AND AUGUST 2013 KEVIN B. SULLIVAN, CONNECTICUT COMMISSIONER COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE SALES FOR THE MONTH OF JULY 2014 TYPENo. OF BEVERAGE 749 TaxSTATE Rate- Effective OF CT, DEPT.AND JULY OF 2013 Jul-14REVENUE INDICATED SERVICESBY REVENUESJul-13 OF25 AUGUST SIGOURNEY 2014Jul-14 AND AUGUSTSTREET, 2013 HARTFORD,Jul-13 CT % 06106 INCREASE/ 7/1/2011 QUANTITY QUANTITYINFOTAX TAX DECREASE TAX COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE SALES FOR THE MONTH OF JULY ‘14 AND JULY ‘13 INDICATED BY REVENUES OF AUG ‘14 & AUG ‘13

MALT BEVERAGES $7.20 (per barrel) 19,813.00 (barrels) 18,502.00 $142,653.60 $133,214.40 7.09% TYPE OF BEVERAGE Tax Rate- Effective Jul-14 Jul-13 Jul-14 Jul-13 % INCREASE/ MALT BEVERAGES $0.24 (per gallon) 5,049,093.00 (gallons) 5,123,283.00 $1,211,782.32 $1,229,587.92 -1.45% 7/1/2011 QUANTITY QUANTITY TAX TAX DECREASE TAX TOTAL TAX - MALT BEVERAGES $1,354,435.92 $1,362,802.32 -0.61% MALT BEVERAGES $7.20 (per barrel) 19,813.00 (barrels) 18,502.00 $142,653.60 $133,214.40 7.09% WINESMALT BEVERAGES UNDER 21% ALCOHOL $0.24 (per gallon) 5,049,093.00 (gallons) 5,123,283.00 $1,211,782.32 $1,229,587.92 -1.45% LARGE WINERIES $0.72 (per gallon) 1,182,140.00 (gallons) 1,171,038.00 $851,140.80 $843,147.36 0.95% TOTAL TAX - MALT BEVERAGES $1,354,435.92 $1,362,802.32 -0.61% SMALL WINERIES $0.18 (per gallon) 19,734.00 (gallons) 16,962.00 $3,552.12 $3,053.16 16.34% WINES UNDER 21% ALCOHOL WINES OVER 21% ALCOHOL LARGE WINERIES $0.72 (per gallon) 1,182,140.00 (gallons) 1,171,038.00 $851,140.80 $843,147.36 0.95% & SPARKLING WINES $1.80 (per gallon) 32,838.00 (gallons) 28,310.00 $59,108.40 $50,958.00 15.99% SMALL WINERIES $0.18 (per gallon) 19,734.00 (gallons) 16,962.00 $3,552.12 $3,053.16 16.34% TOTAL TAX - WINES $913,801.32 $897,158.52 1.86% WINES OVER 21% ALCOHOL DISTILLED & SPARKLING LIQUOR WINES $5.40$1.80 (per (per gallon)gallon) 491,411.0032,838.00 (gallons)(gallons) 484,240.0028,310.00 $2,653,619.40$59,108.40 $2,614,896.00$50,958.00 15.99% 1.48% LIQUOR COOLER $2.46 (per gallon) 778.00 (gallons) 628.00 $1,913.88 $1,544.88 23.89% TOTAL TAX - WINES $913,801.32 $897,158.52 1.86% ALCOHOL $5.40 (per proof gallon) 6,949.00 (gallons) 6,046.00 $37,524.60 $32,648.40 14.94% TOTAL TAX - DISTILLED SPIRITS 1.66% DISTILLED LIQUOR $5.40 (per gallon) 491,411.00 (gallons) 484,240.00$2,693,057.88 $2,653,619.40 $2,649,089.28$2,614,896.00 1.48% LIQUOR COOLER $2.46 (per gallon) 778.00 (gallons) 628.00 $1,913.88 $1,544.88 23.89% TOTAL - ALCOHOLIC ALCOHOL $5.40 (per proof gallon) 6,949.00 (gallons) 6,046.00 $37,524.60 $32,648.40 14.94% BEVERAGES TAX 1.06% TOTAL TAX - DISTILLED SPIRITS $4,961,295.12$2,693,057.88 $4,909,050.12$2,649,089.28 1.66%

TOTAL - ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES TAX $4,961,295.12 $4,909,050.12 1.06%

REVENUE COLLECTION SUMMARY Due to electronic funds transfer procedures and filing Revenue for period July 1, 2014 - Auguts 31, 2014: $2,265,773.09 dates for tax returns, the cumulative revenue figures Revenue for period July 1, 2013 - August 31, 2013: $3,072,342.15 may not include all monies due for the current tax period, it may include some monies due for the prior tax REVENUE COLLECTION SUMMARY Increase or decrease in revenue for current Fiscal Yea ($806,569.06) -26.25% of increase/decrease period (s) of the previous fiscal year. Revenue for period July 1, 2014 - Auguts 31, 2014: $2,265,773.09 Due to electronic funds transfer procedures and filing dates for tax No. 749 Revenue for period July 1, 2013 - August 31, 2013: $3,072,342.15 returns, the cumulative revenue figures may not include all monies due for the current tax period; it may include some monies due for the prior Increase or decrease in revenue for current Fiscal Yea ($806,569.06) -26.25% of increase/decrease tax period (s) of the previous fiscal year. Due to electronic funds transfer procedures and filing dates for tax No. 749 returns, the cumulative revenue figures may not include all monies due for the current tax period; it may include some monies due for the prior STATE OF CONNECTICUT tax period (s) of the previous fiscal year. No. 749 DEPARTMENT OF REVENUE SERVICES 25 SIGOURNEY ST. HARTFORD, CT 06106 KEVINSTATE B. SULLIVAN, OF CONNECTICUT COMMISSIONER DEPARTMENT OF REVENUE SERVICES 25 SIGOURNEY ST. HARTFORD, CT 06106 COMPARATIVE STATEMENTKEVIN OF ALCOHOLIC B. SULLIVAN, BEVERAGE COMMISSIONER SALES FOR THE MONTH OF AUGUST 2014 AND AUGUST 2013 INDICATED BY REVENUES OF SEPTEMBER 2014 AND SEPTEMBER 2013 KEVIN B. SULLIVAN, CONNECTICUT COMMISSIONER COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE SALES FOR THE MONTH OF AUGUST 2014 TYPENo. OF BEVERAGE 750 TaxSTATE Rate- Effective OF CT,AND DEPT. AUGUST OF 2013Aug-14 REVENUE INDICATED BY SERVICES REVENUESAug-13 OF 25 SEPTEMBER SIGOURNEY Aug-142014 AND STREET, SEPTEMBER HARTFORD, 2013 Aug-13 CT % 06106 INCREASE/ 7/1/2011 QUANTITY QUANTITYINFOTAX TAX DECREASE TAX COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE SALES FOR THE MONTH OF AUG ‘14 AND AUG ‘13 INDICATED BY REVENUES OF SEPT ‘14 & SEPT ‘13

MALT BEVERAGES $7.20 (per barrel) 18,346.00 (barrels) 18,892.00 $132,091.20 $136,022.40 -2.89% TYPE OF BEVERAGE Tax Rate- Effective Aug-14 Aug-13 Aug-14 Aug-13 % INCREASE/ MALT BEVERAGES $0.24 (per gallon) 4,780,778.00 (gallons) 5,206,957.00 $1,147,386.72 $1,249,669.68 -8.18% 7/1/2011 QUANTITY QUANTITY TAX TAX DECREASE TAX TOTAL TAX - MALT BEVERAGES $1,279,477.92 $1,385,692.08 -7.67% MALT BEVERAGES $7.20 (per barrel) 18,346.00 (barrels) 18,892.00 $132,091.20 $136,022.40 -2.89% WINESMALT BEVERAGES UNDER 21% ALCOHOL $0.24 (per gallon) 4,780,778.00 (gallons) 5,206,957.00 $1,147,386.72 $1,249,669.68 -8.18% LARGE WINERIES $0.72 (per gallon) 901,464.00 (gallons) 965,639.00 $649,054.08 $695,260.08 -6.65% TOTAL TAX - MALT BEVERAGES $1,279,477.92 $1,385,692.08 -7.67% SMALL WINERIES $0.18 (per gallon) 20,415.00 (gallons) 20,950.00 $3,674.70 $3,771.00 -2.55% WINES UNDER 21% ALCOHOL WINES OVER 21% ALCOHOL LARGE WINERIES $0.72 (per gallon) 901,464.00 (gallons) 965,639.00 $649,054.08 $695,260.08 -6.65% & SPARKLING WINES $1.80 (per gallon) 28,261.00 (gallons) 34,943.00 $50,869.80 $62,897.40 -19.12% SMALL WINERIES $0.18 (per gallon) 20,415.00 (gallons) 20,950.00 $3,674.70 $3,771.00 -2.55% TOTAL TAX - WINES $703,598.58 $761,928.48 -7.66% WINES OVER 21% ALCOHOL DISTILLED & SPARKLING LIQUOR WINES $5.40$1.80 (per (per gallon)gallon) 489,000.0028,261.00 (gallons)(gallons) 503,654.0034,943.00 $2,640,600.00$50,869.80 $2,719,731.60$62,897.40 -19.12% -2.91% LIQUOR COOLER $2.46 (per gallon) 1,187.00 (gallons) 1,166.00 $2,920.02 $2,868.36 1.80% TOTAL TAX - WINES $703,598.58 $761,928.48 -7.66% ALCOHOL $5.40 (per proof gallon) 3,931.00 (gallons) 4,898.00 $21,227.40 $26,449.20 -19.74% TOTAL TAX - DISTILLED SPIRITS -3.07% DISTILLED LIQUOR $5.40 (per gallon) 489,000.00 (gallons) 503,654.00$2,664,747.42 $2,640,600.00 $2,749,049.16$2,719,731.60 -2.91% LIQUOR COOLER $2.46 (per gallon) 1,187.00 (gallons) 1,166.00 $2,920.02 $2,868.36 1.80% TOTAL - ALCOHOLIC ALCOHOL $5.40 (per proof gallon) 3,931.00 (gallons) 4,898.00 $21,227.40 $26,449.20 -19.74% BEVERAGES TAX -5.08% TOTAL TAX - DISTILLED SPIRITS $4,647,823.92$2,664,747.42 $4,896,669.72$2,749,049.16 -3.07%

TOTAL - ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES TAX $4,647,823.92 $4,896,669.72 -5.08%

REVENUE COLLECTION SUMMARY Due to electronic funds transfer procedures and filing Revenue for period July 1, 2014 - September 30, 2014 $8,875,347.31 dates for tax returns, the cumulative revenue figures Revenue for period July 1, 2013 - September 30, 2013 $8,909,911.23 may not include all monies due for the current tax period, it may include some monies due for the prior tax REVENUE COLLECTION SUMMARY Increase or decrease in revenue for current Fiscal Yea ($34,563.92) -0.39% of increase/decrease period (s) of the previous fiscal year. Revenue for period July 1, 2014 - September 30, 2014 $8,875,347.31 Due to electronic funds transfer procedures and filing dates for tax No. 750 Revenue for period July 1, 2013 - September 30, 2013 $8,909,911.23 returns, the cumulative revenue figures may not include all monies due for the current tax period; it may include some monies due for the prior Increase or decrease in revenue for current Fiscal Yea ($34,563.92) -0.39% of increase/decrease tax period (s) of the previous fiscal year. Due to electronic funds transfer procedures and filing dates for tax 30 CONNECTICUTNo. 750 BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access returns, the cumulative revenue figures may not include all monies due for the current tax period; it may include some monies due for the prior tax period (s) of the previous fiscal year. No. 750 REVENUEREPORTS

STATE OF CONNECTICUT DEPARTMENT OF REVENUE SERVICES 25 SIGOURNEY ST. HARTFORD, CT 06106 KEVINSTATE B. SULLIVAN, OF CONNECTICUT COMMISSIONER DEPARTMENT OF REVENUE SERVICES 25 SIGOURNEY ST. HARTFORD, CT 06106 COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OFKEVIN ALCOHOLIC B. SULLIVAN, BEVERAGE COMMISSIONER SALES FOR THE MONTH OF SEPTEMBER 2014 AND SEPTEMBER 2013 INDICATED BY REVENUES OF OCTOBER 2014 AND OCTOBER 2013 KEVIN B. SULLIVAN, CONNECTICUT COMMISSIONER COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE SALES FOR THE MONTH OF SEPTEMBER 2014 TYPENo. OF BEVERAGE 751 TaxSTATE Rate- Effective OF CT,AND DEPT. SEPTEMBER OFSep-14 REVENUE2013 INDICATED SERVICES BY REVENUESSep-13 25 OF SIGOURNEY OCTOBERSep-14 2014 AND STREET, OCTOBER HARTFORD, 2013 Sep-13 CT % 06106 INCREASE/ 7/1/2011 QUANTITY QUANTITYINFOTAX TAX DECREASE TAX COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE SALES FOR THE MONTH OF SEPT ‘14 AND SEPT ‘13 INDICATED BY REVENUES OF OCT ‘14 & OCT ‘13

MALT BEVERAGES $7.20 (per barrel) 20,052.00 (barrels) 16,857.00 $144,374.40 $121,370.40 18.95% TYPE OF BEVERAGE Tax Rate- Effective Sep-14 Sep-13 Sep-14 Sep-13 % INCREASE/ MALT BEVERAGES $0.24 (per gallon) 4,216,420.00 (gallons) 3,991,391.00 $1,011,940.80 $957,933.84 5.64% 7/1/2011 QUANTITY QUANTITY TAX TAX DECREASE TAX TOTAL TAX - MALT BEVERAGES $1,156,315.20 $1,079,304.24 7.14% MALT BEVERAGES $7.20 (per barrel) 20,052.00 (barrels) 16,857.00 $144,374.40 $121,370.40 18.95% WINESMALT BEVERAGES UNDER 21% ALCOHOL $0.24 (per gallon) 4,216,420.00 (gallons) 3,991,391.00 $1,011,940.80 $957,933.84 5.64% LARGE WINERIES $0.72 (per gallon) 1,015,462.00 (gallons) 954,934.00 $731,132.64 $687,552.48 6.34% TOTAL TAX - MALT BEVERAGES $1,156,315.20 $1,079,304.24 7.14% SMALL WINERIES $0.18 (per gallon) 25,474.00 (gallons) 28,468.00 $4,585.32 $5,124.24 -10.52% WINES UNDER 21% ALCOHOL WINES OVER 21% ALCOHOL LARGE WINERIES $0.72 (per gallon) 1,015,462.00 (gallons) 954,934.00 $731,132.64 $687,552.48 6.34% & SPARKLING WINES $1.80 (per gallon) 31,276.00 (gallons) 27,618.00 $56,296.80 $49,712.40 13.24% SMALL WINERIES $0.18 (per gallon) 25,474.00 (gallons) 28,468.00 $4,585.32 $5,124.24 -10.52% TOTAL TAX - WINES $792,014.76 $742,389.12 6.68% WINES OVER 21% ALCOHOL DISTILLED & SPARKLING LIQUOR WINES $5.40$1.80 (per (per gallon)gallon) 509,298.0031,276.00 (gallons)(gallons) 443,301.0027,618.00 $2,750,209.20$56,296.80 $2,393,825.40$49,712.40 14.89% 13.24% LIQUOR COOLER $2.46 (per gallon) 470.00 (gallons) 573.00 $1,156.20 $1,409.58 -17.98% TOTAL TAX - WINES $792,014.76 $742,389.12 6.68% ALCOHOL $5.40 (per proof gallon) 6,387.00 (gallons) 5,149.00 $34,489.80 $27,804.60 24.04% TOTAL TAX - DISTILLED SPIRITS 14.97% DISTILLED LIQUOR $5.40 (per gallon) 509,298.00 (gallons) 443,301.00$2,785,855.20 $2,750,209.20 $2,423,039.58$2,393,825.40 14.89% LIQUOR COOLER $2.46 (per gallon) 470.00 (gallons) 573.00 $1,156.20 $1,409.58 -17.98% TOTAL - ALCOHOLIC ALCOHOL $5.40 (per proof gallon) 6,387.00 (gallons) 5,149.00 $34,489.80 $27,804.60 24.04% BEVERAGES TAX 11.53% TOTAL TAX - DISTILLED SPIRITS $4,734,185.16$2,785,855.20 $4,244,732.94$2,423,039.58 14.97%

TOTAL - ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES TAX $4,734,185.16 $4,244,732.94 11.53%

REVENUE COLLECTION SUMMARY Due to electronic funds transfer procedures and fi ling Revenue for period July 1, 2014 - October 31, 2014: $14,504,059.83 dates for tax returns, the cumulative revenue fi gures Revenue for period July 1, 2013 - October 31, 2013: $13,832,896.60 may not include all monies due for the current tax period, it may include some monies due for the prior tax REVENUE COLLECTION SUMMARY Increase or decrease in revenue for current Fiscal Yea $671,163.23 4.85% of increase/decrease period (s) of the previous fi scal year. Revenue for period July 1, 2014 - October 31, 2014: $14,504,059.83 Due to electronic funds transfer procedures and filing dates for tax No. 751 Revenue for period July 1, 2013 - October 31, 2013: $13,832,896.60 returns, the cumulative revenue figures may not include all monies due for the current tax period; it may include some monies due for the prior Increase or decrease in revenue for current Fiscal Yea $671,163.23 4.85% of increase/decrease tax period (s) of the previous fiscal year. Due to electronic funds transfer procedures and filing dates for tax No. 751 returns, the cumulative revenue figures may not include all monies due for the current tax period; it may include some monies due for the prior tax period (s) of the previous fiscal year. No. 751 THE BEVERAGE JOURNAL IN PRINT & ONLINE THE ONLY TOOLS YOU NEED AT THE COUNTER OR AT THE BAR

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HOTEL CALIFORNIA REPOSADO WINS GOLD AROUNDTOWN FROM FIFTYBEST.COM

Glastonbury, Conn. - based Sipping Spirits, LLC’s Hotel California CELEBRITY’S APPEARANCES AND SIGNINGS Tequila added another accolade for the brand. TheFiftyBest.com HIGHLIGHT REMY V rating the finest in wines and spirits recently hosted a Reposado Tequila Tasting, where 36 contenders were evaluated for the Brescome Barton’s Giancarlo Cowan, Multi-CulturalRETAIL KeyREVIEW DONAHUE'S MADISON Account Manager, hosted a Remy Martin V in-store tasting and BEACH GRILLE distinguished “Best Reposado Tequila” awards for 2013. Hotel celebrity appearance with NYC’s Power 105.1 radio personality California Reposado Tequila was awarded a Gold medal. Using “Charlamagne tha God” (also known as Lenard McKelvey), 1320 BOSTON POST RD, MADISON professional criteria, the pre-qualified panel of judges blind- co-host of "The Breakfast Club" morning show and as seen on MTV's "Guy Code." The four tastings and bottle signings tasted the reposado tequilas and rated them individually on a occurred around the state in September, including Happy Owners Chris and Patrick Donahue opened the one to five point scoring system, with five being the best. Medals Harry’s Discount Wine & Spirits in Hamden, Farmington Ave namesake pub and music venue almost four years were awarded based on the judges' impressions. Judges’ notes can be found Package Store in Hartford and Felix Liquor Store in Bridgeport. ago. Known for its “great food, great music,” at www.thefiftybest.com/tequila/best_tequila_reposado Shown with a Remy V model are Charlamagne tha God and Donahue’s serves fresh seafood dishes and Giancarlo Cowan, Multi-Cultural Key Account Manager, Brescome homemade New England clam chowder. From Barton at Bridgeport’s Price Break Liquors. the sizable bar, cocktails range from traditional PEARL JAM GREETED WITH ONYX MOONSHINE to inventive. CUSTOM BOTTLE CRA ANNUAL AWARDS DINNER SET FOR LOCATION When Pearl Jam came to play the XL Center in Hartford on DECEMBER 3, 2013 30 WELLES STREET October 25, 2013, they were given a custom-etched bottle of Onyx GLASTONBURY, CT Moonshine as a welcoming gift to Connecticut. “We are so happy A “Salute to Excellence Awards & Recognition Dinner”Sonoma hosted Wine by Connecticut Restaurant Association (CRA) is set for FACTS that the XL Center sees Onyx Moonshine as the perfect gift to December 3, 2013 at the Mohegan Sun Ballroom.& AmongSpirits SQUARE FOOTAGE: 3,100 welcome major recording artists to Connecticut and that those honorees are Vendor of the Year: Siegel, O’Connor, O’Donnell & YEARS IN OPERATION: 6 (32 UNDER PREVIOUS OWNERSHIP) performers will return home or continue on their music tours Beck, P.C.; Friend of the Industry: The Honorable BobBY Duff, BOB State SAMPLE Senator, CT General Assembly; Hospitality Hall of Fame: The with a bit of Connecticut spirit. Producing a spirit we can all be Marchetti Family of Restaurants; Restaurateur of theA Year: 65-hour Jimmy work week holds little appeal has a pleasant Southwestern vibe outside in at holiday time. The recession caused proud of in this state has been a big part of our inspiration since Cosgrove of Salute. Awards will be presented by vote for: Casual February 2015 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL 31 for most, let alone someone who’s retired. and in. Wrought iron light fixtures, wooden Prevatt to put greater emphasis on lower- the beginning,” said Adam von Gootkin, co-founder, Onyx Spirits Restaurant of the Year, Upscale Restaurant of the Year, Caterer of the Year, Chef of the Year, and Pernod Ricard MixologistBut Ron of Prevatt the is spending his retirement beams and a red-carpeted stairway complete cost wines, which requires research. “I spend Company. The back label was removed and custom etched by Year. To attend, visit www.ctrestaurant.org/awardsdinner2013.working hard at something he truly loves: its distinctive, upscale look. The upstairs at least an hour each night after closing Hartford’s XL Center. Director of Marketing for XL Center, Erin Bilton, arranged Shown is 2012 Restaurateur of the Year, Steven AbramsSonoma of WinesMax and Spirits of Glastonbury, mezzanine houses offices and a private tasting reading The Connecticut Beverage Journal, the gift as the center “wanted a premium local spirit to welcome major performing Downtown with 2012 Chef of the Year, Ryan Jones of TheConn. Mill @2T. room. Wine Spectator, and other publications, and BARTENDER: Ken Burton artists,” said von Gootkin. Sonoma’s proprietor since October of It’s a fitting backdrop for the store’s eclectic visiting vintners’ websites,” he said. “This DRINK NAME: Devil’s Banana 2008, Prevatt had a successful career in the collection of beverages. Prevatt uses end caps way I stay on top of what’s new.” TANDUAY ASIAN RUM OFFERS SIGNATURE WOODFORD RESERVE AND ESQUIRE’S automobile business – which, incidentally, to highlight certain wines, beers, or spirits, After experimenting with Sunday sales for RECIPE: “MANHATTAN EXPERIENCE” COMES TO TOWNindirectly sparked his passion for wine and with closely-related goods adjacent to each part of 2011, Prevatt has opted to remain Served as shot. Pour from chilled bottles HOLIDAY RECIPES spirits. He had a stint at the Ducati motorcycle display. “The way it’s all arranged, if they don’t closed on Sundays. “This lets Sharon and me The Woodford Reserve Bourbon “Manhattan Experience” was • 2/3 Peel Bananacello on bottom works in Italy, where he fell in love with the respond favorably to the item I’m spotlighting, do things, such as taking in the yearly wine Tanduay Asian Rum announced three signature holiday cocktail held at Hudson Grill in Stamford on October 7, 2013. Woodford • 1/3 Cabo Diablo on top recipes. In Connecticut and Florida, Tanduay is an award-winning Reserve and Esquire hosted the exhibition eventsregion’s in 30 wines. U.S. I can suggest several other alternatives that tastings at distributors in the Northeast, are all close by,” he explained. which usually take place on Sundays in spirit that launched in the U.S. in August 2013. The original recipes cities along with United States Bartenders GuildThis (USBG)standalone shop near Glastonbury’s It’s a nice winter drink. It’s a cold drink but chapters culminating in a finale in January 2014 in New York August and September,” Prevatt said. “ 1 2 historic center is almost evenly divided The store had a loyal following even before ■ are influenced “by the comforting flavors of the season.” Sweet City. A winner from six finalists will be selected and given a warm going down,” said Burton. “Cabo Diablo among craft beers, spirits, and handpicked Prevatt purchased it. Glastonbury’s town is a natural fit for (the spices of vanilla chai, seasonal pumpkin liqueur and light cream spread in Esquire magazine. Connecticut’s winner was USBGT- CT member Josh Pekar, who works at Valencia winesLuncheria – Sonoma’s in specialty. “I look for center is a popular shopping destination and Connecticut-based) combine with the custard notes of Tanduay Gold Asian Rum to Norwalk. Attendees included representatives fromwines thatBrown are outside the mainstream and I a busy Whole Foods Market is right across Peel Bananacello. The create the Cha Cha Chai Pumpkin Martini. The Ginger Bell ties the Forman, Woodford Reserve, Eder Brothers and thepersonally USBG-CT. taste everything we carry,” Prevatt the street, which brings in newcomers. He bananacello also has zing of gingerbread with tart white cranberry and fresh orange juice Photos courtesy of Tammy Torres, MartiniHunter.com.said. “My philosophy is, each bottle has to be keeps a computerized database of customer a caramel kick and is with Tanduay Silver Asian Rum. A bubbly beverage for toasting, the a little thicker than the 1. Winner Josh Pekar and Tom Kachmarck, Market Managerreasonably CT/RI, priced and taste great.” preferences and purchasing histories. Prevatt’s Sparkling Pear & Pomegranate (shown to the right) combines champagne mixed Brown-Forman. Cabo Diablo Coffee The “Sonoma” moniker dates from the store’s long hours means he meets practically every 2. Winner Josh Pekar presenting “Breakfast in Manhattan.” with peach nectar, pomegranate juice and Tanduay’s Silver expression. Recipes can Sonoma customer. Liqueur, so it gives a 3. Shown left to right: Tom Erhler, Display Department,previous Eder Bros., owner and befits the store, which lingering banana flavor be found on www.thebeveragejournal.com/community under “Serving Up.” Inc.; Tammy Torres, MartiniHunter.com; Josh Pekar; Janna The small staff – there are three part-time on your tongue. Waite-Key Account Manager, Eder Bros., Inc.; Brett Bornemann, employees – keeps costs down. Prevatt’s wife, ” Territory Portfolio Manager, Brown Forman; Neal Briskin, Market 3 Sharon and other family members pitch Manager, Eder Bros., Inc. 2 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL December 2013 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access 2 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL December 2013 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access GLASTONBURY, CT If you own a small, medium or megastore and would like to be featured, email: [email protected]

2 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL December 2013 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access STATEVIOLATIONS wiNeFocus

State of Connecticut Bob’s Package Store, 1426 East Main Long Horn Steakhouse, 10 Phoenix Department of Consumer Protection St., Meriden, LIP.13300 has paid a fine of Ave., Enfield, LIR.18891 has paid a fine Liquor Control Commission $500.00 and has been suspended for the of $500.00 and has been suspended for The Deal following date: November 10, 2014. This the following date: January 5, 2015. This suspension has been imposed for alleged suspension has been imposed for alleged WiTh BurgunDy violation of the following statutes or violation of the following statutes or THE LIQUOR PERMIT OF: regulations: §30-86(b) Sale to minor. regulations: §30-86(b) Sale to minor. Quality is solid, But Can you HARBORVIEW WINE AND SPIRITS Get enouGh to sell at a deCent PriCe? 48 Main St. Outback, 98 ElmNorwalk Street, Enfield, LIR.17062 Frankies Pizzeria, 138 South Road, Cilfone’s Eastside Cafe, 823 New By W. BLAKE GRAy LIP.14999 LIR.14727 has paid a fine of $500.00 LCA.5972 has paid a fine of $500.00 and has been Enfield, Harwinton Road, Torrington, suspendedHAS PAID for A FINEthe following OF $500 AND date: HAS November BEEN and has been suspended for the following has paid a fine of $500.00 and has been 18, 2014. This suspension has been date: November 25, 2014. This suspension suspended for the following date: January imposedSUSPENDED for alleged violation of the following has been imposed for alleged violation of the 5, 2015. This suspension has been might be importing only four barrels statutes or regulations: §30-86(b) Sale to following statutes or regulations: §30-86(b) imposed for alleged violation of the n today’s increasingly fluid and competitive wine market, savvy for the following dates: retailers are actively seeking out wines that can set them apart— of the wine. There’s not enough to go minor, §30-90 Minor in barroom. Sale to minor. following statutes or regulations: §30-91(e) around. And some of the top producers, January 6, 2014 (2) Hours & days of closing, §30-91(a) enticing, rewarding gems shoppers won’t find elsewhere. I their Bourgogne is $40 now.” This suspension has been imposed for alleged violation of Hours & days of closing. The likely main reason is the growing Granby the Packagefollowing statutes Store, or regulations: 496 Salmon 99 Restaurant and Pub, 54 Hazard While it sounds counterintuitive, Bad News, Good News number of U.S. consumers who take an Brook St., Granby, LIP.12980 has paid a Avenue, Enfield, LIR.16814 has paid a fine good ol’ Burgundy has emerged as a go-to “For $25 [retail], it’s hard to find much active interest in the wine world. Most fine §30-of $500.0086(b) SALEand has TObeen MINOR suspended for of $500.00 and has been suspended for Holiday Inn, 1 Bright Meadow Blvd., region for such merchants. The primary red Burgundy that’s worth drinking,” wine education classes praise Burgundy the following date: December 1, 2014. This Enfield, LIH.1770 has paid a fine of the following date: November 10, 2014. This grapes in Burgundy—Chardonnay and says Ian Halbert, Burgundy specialist as the queen of wine regions. And suspension has been imposed for alleged $500.00 and has been suspended for suspension has been imposed for alleged Pinot Noir—are household names, for Gordon’s Fine Wine & Liquors in the greatly improved consistency of violation of the following statutes or violation of the following statutes or the following date: January 2, 2015. This making the wines relatively easy to Waltham, MA. Burgundy wines compared to 15 years regulations: §30-86(b) Sale to minor. regulations: §30-86(b) Sale to minor, §30-90 suspension has been imposed for alleged flag with shelf talkers (“Great unoaked That was also my experience in ago means people are more likely to like Minor in barroom. violation of the following statutes or French Chardonnay!”) or to recommend preparing for this article, based on a what they try first, and go back for more. regulations: §30-6-A41(a) Restrictions on without a complicated hand-sell. request through the BIVB for samples of Aresco Superette, 238 Gravel St., sales & purchases, §30-76 Purchase for According to the BIVB (Burgundy wines that retail under $25 in the U.S. I PoPularity & QuaNtity Meriden, LGB.12314 has paid a fine of Polla Supermarket, 399 Main Street, resale, §30-54 Permit to be hung in plain Wine Board), U.S. imports were up got more whites overall, and more good Both Factors $500.00 and has been suspended for the Danbury, LGB.13721 has paid a fine of “Burgundy used to be the reserve of view, §30-53 Permit to be recorded. 7% in 2013—having increased for the whites. *[See sidebar.] following date: November 10, 2014. This $1,00.00 and has been suspended for connoisseurs,” says Halbert. “At this fourth year in a row—and the figures are With white Burgundy, $25 retail can the following dates: December 8, 9 & 10, point it’s such a hot category, and suspension has been imposed for alleged getting close to the pre-recession high still buy some village-level wines. But 2014. This suspension has been imposed for everybody is into it.” violation of the following statutes or Bridgeport Variety Plus, 1372 Park Ave., of 2007. Even better, the wines have $25 for red Burgundy buys very little Jean-Charles Boisset, who produces regulations: §30-86(b) Sale to minor. alleged violation of the following statutes or Bridgeport, LGB.14684 has paid a fine never had more consistent quality. beyond the most basic Bourgogne and imports several good value regulations: §30-6-A24(a) Conduct of permit of $250.00 and has been suspended for Unfortunately, it has also never Pinot Noir. I did find one decent Burgundies, says not only should we premises, §30-6-A41(a) Restrictions on sales the following date: January 5, 2015. This been more difficult to stock a steady village wine, Domaine Faiveley Café Luna, 79 West Broad St., Stamford, expect prices to keep rising, we can’t and purchase,s §30-76 Purchase for resale, suspension has been imposed for alleged supply of good Burgundies under $25. Mercurey, but most village wines are LCA.7371 has paid a fine of $750.00 and expect availability to improve. §30-6-A40(i) Displaying prices, §30-20(b) violation of the following statutes or It’s easier with white wines than reds. priced beyond that target. has been suspended for the following Prices to be posted. regulations: §30-91(d) Hours and days There are more than twice as many Halbert says many wines dates: November 3 & 4, 2014. This of closing, §30-20(b) Grocery store bottles of white Burgundy imported like those—smaller producers’ suspension has been imposed for alleged beer permits, §30-74 Unauthorized sale to the U.S. than red Burgundy, Bourgogne appellation reds— Lulu’s Pizzeria & Family Restaurant, 151 violation of the following statutes or prohibited, §30-77(a) Disposing of liquor and price range may be part of were good values in the past, LIR.17860 has paid a regulations: §30-22a Café permits, §30-6- Hazard Ave., Enfield, without a permit. the reason. Nearly two-thirds of but now those wines are in such A12 Permittee name sign, §30-53 Permit to fine of $500.00 and has been suspended for imported Burgundies traditionally demand that prices have risen be recorded, §30-6-A41(a) Restrictions on the following date: December 1, 2014. This License violation information can be found on could be expected to fit a bargain out of the bargain category. sales & purchases, §30-93 Containers to suspension has been imposed for alleged the Department of Consumer Protection's category, namely those with the “Neil Rosenthal and Kermit be sealed, §30-86(b) Sale to minor, §30-90 violation of the following statutes or website, www.ct.gov/dcp/cwp under entry-level Bourgogne appellation Lynch offer a lot of great values Suspensions/Revocations. Minor in barroom. regulations: §30-86(b) Sale to minor. or the general Mâcon appellation. from small producers,” Halbert But many of those wines cost a lot Jean-Charles Boisset wants easier access to says. “The problem is that they the Burgundy category, via wines under $25 more than they used to.

32 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access wiNeFocus

The Deal WiTh BurgunDy Quality is solid, But Can you Get enouGh to sell at a deCent PriCe? By W. BLAKE GRAy

n today’s increasingly fluid and competitive wine market, savvy might be importing only four barrels retailers are actively seeking out wines that can set them apart— of the wine. There’s not enough to go enticing, rewarding gems shoppers won’t find elsewhere. around. And some of the top producers, I their Bourgogne is $40 now.” The likely main reason is the growing While it sounds counterintuitive, Bad News, Good News number of U.S. consumers who take an good ol’ Burgundy has emerged as a go-to “For $25 [retail], it’s hard to find much active interest in the wine world. Most region for such merchants. The primary red Burgundy that’s worth drinking,” wine education classes praise Burgundy grapes in Burgundy—Chardonnay and says Ian Halbert, Burgundy specialist as the queen of wine regions. And Pinot Noir—are household names, for Gordon’s Fine Wine & Liquors in the greatly improved consistency of making the wines relatively easy to Waltham, MA. Burgundy wines compared to 15 years flag with shelf talkers (“Great unoaked That was also my experience in ago means people are more likely to like French Chardonnay!”) or to recommend preparing for this article, based on a what they try first, and go back for more. without a complicated hand-sell. request through the BIVB for samples of According to the BIVB (Burgundy wines that retail under $25 in the U.S. I PoPularity & QuaNtity Wine Board), U.S. imports were up got more whites overall, and more good Both Factors “Burgundy used to be the reserve of 7% in 2013—having increased for the whites. *[See sidebar.] connoisseurs,” says Halbert. “At this fourth year in a row—and the figures are With white Burgundy, $25 retail can point it’s such a hot category, and getting close to the pre-recession high still buy some village-level wines. But everybody is into it.” of 2007. Even better, the wines have $25 for red Burgundy buys very little Jean-Charles Boisset, who produces never had more consistent quality. beyond the most basic Bourgogne and imports several good value Unfortunately, it has also never Pinot Noir. I did find one decent Burgundies, says not only should we been more difficult to stock a steady village wine, Domaine Faiveley expect prices to keep rising, we can’t supply of good Burgundies under $25. Mercurey, but most village wines are expect availability to improve. It’s easier with white wines than reds. priced beyond that target. There are more than twice as many Halbert says many wines bottles of white Burgundy imported like those—smaller producers’ to the U.S. than red Burgundy, Bourgogne appellation reds— and price range may be part of were good values in the past, the reason. Nearly two-thirds of but now those wines are in such imported Burgundies traditionally demand that prices have risen could be expected to fit a bargain out of the bargain category. category, namely those with the “Neil Rosenthal and Kermit entry-level Bourgogne appellation Lynch offer a lot of great values or the general Mâcon appellation. from small producers,” Halbert But many of those wines cost a lot Jean-Charles Boisset wants easier access to says. “The problem is that they the Burgundy category, via wines under $25 more than they used to.

February 2015 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL 33 wiNeFocus

Brothers Xavier (seated) and Jérome Garnier, seen here with their father Joseph, make fantastic Chablis at surprisingly affordable prices.

“In Burgundy, there’s no place to plant Halbert says. “I have to buy it when it’s any more. The size is the size,” says Boisset. offered to me. If we come up short on a “I recommend that stores that are few bottles of Bordeaux, there’s always interested in selling Burgundy, they opportunities. Burgundy, forget it. It’s really plan with people like us from that not possible.” ■ region. Planning is more important than ever. Because if they don’t, they won’t have all the wines all the time. Demand for Burgundy is growing a Few GeNeral and we have some short vintages. It’s oBservatioNs becoming much more of an allocation business than ever before.” ❂ Chablis, the most respected Perhaps because of his interests Burgundy appellation that one in California, where he owns brands can buy under $25 SRP, is including Buena Vista, DeLoach and The arrival of a good easily the best source of value. Raymond, Boisset has a more global $25 Burgundy in the Some of these wines are terrific, perspective than most Burgundians. He like Domaine Garnier & Fils, believes it’s important for Burgundy to store has become imported by Martine’s Wines. keep making wines at entry-level prices. an event worth “To think that Burgundy is only a ❂ Olivier Leflaive, imported by $75 wine, that is the wrong perspective,” broadcasting to your Frederick Wildman & Sons, Boisset argues. “It’s important to get customers along with does nice entry-level Bourgognes people into the category of Burgundy, in both red and white that are to find wines at $18 or $20 that are a recommendation to better value than most village- level wines. very good value if you compare with a act with urgency. Russian River Valley wine.” ❂ Some entry-level wines have the That idea of comparison is part of words "Chardonnay" and "Pinot the problem. It’s hard to tell clients very good quality, but they just sit there Noir" written very prominently, that a Pinot Noir from Chile is a good with Burgundy itself downplayed substitute for red Burgundy (even because people don’t want to pay a few dollars more.” (only Bourgogne-appellation though sometimes it is). And wines wines can use these grape from other good Pinot Noir regions, variety names on the front label like Oregon or Central Otago or the the holy Grail at all). I found those wines Sonoma Coast or the Sta. Rita Hills, If there is a bright spot in the ongoing among the least appealing. aren’t cheap. bargain Burgundy market squeeze for It’s possible they are designed “Where in the world is there really retailers, it is that the arrival of a good to compete in superstores good Pinot Noir for under $25?” Halbert $25 Burgundy in the store has become with varietal wines from South says. “I don’t think it offers a lot of value an event worth broadcasting to your America. in the lower price ranges.” customers along with a recommendation ❂ Halbert believes the best value to act with urgency. The best reds I had were entry- level Bourgogne appellation in Burgundy these days are village- “The same Bourgogne Pinot Noirs wines from smaller producers, level wines priced from $30 to $50. that we used to get 40 or 50 cases of, Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau we’re getting allocated 15 cases now,” “Very often the village wines offer the (imported by Margate Wine most satisfaction,” Halbert says. “The Halbert says. “Sometimes I get five cases & Spirit Co.) and Louis Max Premier and Grand Cru wines are too and I just bring it into the store and “Beaucharme” (imported by tight to drink right away. The village whoever gets there first, they buy it.” Slocum & Sons). wines drink well and a lot of them are But that urgency also applies to ageworthy too. A lot of these wines are retailers. “My job is to buy Burgundy,”

34 CONNECTICUT BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access

w craft: what’s•in•a•name?

As ‘craft’ spirits continue to grow, the term itself comes under fire

BY RYAN MALKIN

raft—to the surprise of no one in the industry—is Kentucky. Instead, the plaintiffs claim all hot. Last year, American craft spirits sales were up of these products are distilled at MGP, a massive industrial complex in Indiana. nearly 50%, according to analysts at GuestMetrics, If not for these allegedly false claims, the while domestic non-craft spirits saw a slight plaintiffs say they would not have paid decline over the same period. higher prices or bought these brands. C In the case of Maker’s Mark, origin is But what are “craft spirits” really, and 2015, also happens to be the subject of not the issue; plaintiffs argue that the how many of them are there? The answer three lawsuits—all of which speak directly brand creates the false impression of depends, of course, on what you mean to the problems that can be created via superior quality by virtue of being labeled by craft. The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax terminology. At issue is whether Tito’s “Handmade.” and Trade Bureau (TTB) counts 1,350 misrepresented consumers by stating on Collectively, these class actions—all distilled spirits plants (DSPs) in the the label: “Handmade” and “Crafted in of which are being defended actively by United States. That number is barely an Old Fashioned Pot Still by America’s the brand owners—suggest that 2015 may relevant, though: a supplier does not need Original Microdistillery.” Plaintiffs claim be the year that craft spirits get dragged to be the distiller to bottle and market a the vodka is not handmade; rather, it is out of the marketing rooms and distilleries spirit as craft. Since it is not a category, “actually made via highly mechanized into the public arena. craft is officially undefined. process devoid of human hands.” The Perhaps “flexibly defined” is a better allegations—which Tito’s vigorously way of looking at it. The Small Distiller disputes—are that the company knowingly The term craft has come to embody not only small Affiliate Membership program of sold this misbranded product to consumers scale and hands-on production and aging, but also DISCUS presently has over 100 members with the intent to deceive them. evocative messaging. in 31 states and continues to grow. The OPPOSITE PAGE, LEFT TO RIGHT: The original American Distilling Institute’s “Certified still at Tito’s Handmade Vodka in Austin, TX; the Chopin distillery in Krzesk, Poland; barrels being Craft Database” is nearing 900 brands, PUSHING THE charred in preparation to hold whiskey. originating in 44 states and Canada. LEGAL ENVELOPE CENTER, L to R: Tad Dorda harvesting potatoes GuestMetrics defines craft spirits as And the lawsuits don’t end with Tito’s. at Chopin; separately, he also makes vodkas from brands “(1) produced in the U.S., and (2) Templeton Rye, Tincup American wheat and rye; the pot still remains the small-batch distillers’ tool of choice; Bert Butler “Tito” Beveridge not owned by the top dozen or so largest Whiskey, Angel’s Envy and Maker’s Mark produced only 1,000 cases of vodka in his brand’s spirits suppliers.” Seen through their lens, are also defendants in separate suits. first year, 1997. craft accounts for about 6% of the overall The plaintiffs allege, respectively, that BOTTOM, L to R: Craft spirits are not always spirits industry volume. Templeton is not “small batch” and made distilled by suppliers—they can also be blended from already aged stocks; hand-packing cases of Interestingly, Tito’s Handmade Vodka in Iowa; Tincup is not a Colorado whiskey whiskey at High West, in Park City, Utah; Templeton is the largest craft spirits brand in the with a “unique mash bill;” and Angel’s Rye, based on a Prohibition-era whiskey, is distilled Envy is not “handcrafted and bottled” in in Indiana but bottled in Iowa using local water and GuestMetrics system of data. Tito’s, circa a proprietary formula. w craft•defined

SMALL STILL director of brand education, Chris Patino, big suppliers can “make craft spirits as BEAUTIFUL? long as that production is based on the The image of craft spirits certainly began quality and heritage of their brands, not with the notion of a small distillery with the size of the supplier company.” small production. In part this stems from Meanwhile, small distillers abroad states limits. In Illinois a “craft distiller” are are relegated to the sidelines in most may produce 35,000 gallons; in New craft conversations, strictly based on Jersey it’s 20,000 gallons; and 60,000 their not being American. With three gallons in Washington. Therefore, local, single-ingredient vodkas (potato, wheat, small production has been part of the rye), Chopin Vodka certainly fits the definition of craft since the beginning. craft mold. Owner Tad Dorda, shares a Naturally, many of these distillers, even What’s on the bottle is a critical complement to what’s in the bottle. Seen here: hand-numbering a bottle of kinship with U.S. distillers in terms of Tito’s, started small. Given the explosive Masterson’s Rye, part of the portfolio of 35 Maple “some human involvement and some growth of previously small brands, size Street Spirits, founded in 2012 in Sonoma, CA. human passion.” He believes people will may now be too limiting. pay more if they know the person making Spirits were not first to go through it. It’s certainly easier to visit a domestic these growing pains. Beer struggled first. “If customers believe it is a quality distillery than Chopin in Poland. Still, Echoing the Brewers Association, the product, made by hand, made by an artist, “we are looking for a connection, that American Distilling Institute (ADI) with care, it is a craft spirit,” says Ryan something extra,” he says. identifies three pillars for certification. Dettra, managing director of the Ice Plant Craft distilled spirits: bar in St. Augustine, FL. He says a product can be craft regardless of whether it’s GAINING ATTENTION • have a TTB-approved label stating In the end, of course, this all boils down to blended, distilled from neutral grain spirit, “distilled by,” followed by the name of sales. Craft spirits are selling. At Bottlefork distilled from grain or cane, small batch, or the DSP in Chicago, a farm to table restaurant single barrel. In his view, “marketing has • are no more than 25% owned by operated by Rockit Ranch Productions more to do with whether a spirit is accepted another industry member in addition to its five other venues, as a ‘craft spirit’ [than production].” • produce less than 100,000 proof gallons. customers are being more experimental For Dave Kaplan, co-owner of and ordering craft spirits at dinner. Tellingly, however, ADI has a separate Proprietors, LLC, which operates bars However, when it comes to nightlife and certification for blenders—recognizing such as Death & Co, 151 and Nitecap bottle service, Rockit Ranch president the reality that many artisanal spirits in New York and Honeycut in LA, the Arturo Gomez says the Grey Gooses of (gin and liqueurs in particular) begin definition of craft has evolved. Kaplan the world are still king. “People don’t like with purchased base spirits that are then originally associated craft with being to experiment with bottle service; they purposefully transformed. a small producer. Now he sees craft as are committing to things they know and Perhaps the American Craft Spirits brands having complete control over the trust,” he explains. Association (ACSA) has it right. Rather process. That means, “no matter what the In the off premise, many shops have than defining the term by size limitations, volume, the brand grows or sources the craft sections. Some are are even catering ACSA takes the approach of not defining ingredients, ferments, distills and bottles specifically to craft customers. Just take Ezra’s the term at all, instead adopting a code the product.” He believes that brands that liquor store, also in Chicago. Ezra’s prides of ethics that calls for honesty and buy distillate and redistill “fall outside the transparency from ACSA members. definition of craft.” Care in production process is not necessarily limited by the size of the The American Distilling Institute has set standards to SEEING + BELIEVING certify both craft distillers and blenders—recognizing While the ADI standards of certification supplier. Hangar 1 Vodka’s head distiller, artisanal spirits created post-distillation. emphasize the product’s provenance, the Caley Shoemaker, says distilleries certification itself is designed to help can maintain “the same strict quality market the brand. Craft certificate holders standards as they did when they were can use the ADI seal in promotional making smaller amounts.” The key is to material and on their labels. The stay “focused on quality of craftsmanship certification functions as it would would and authenticity in ingredients.” So with other consumer goods. And it brings can large companies make craft spirits? into the role of perception. According to Pernod Ricard USA’s NEW YEAR, NEW LOOK.

Cheers to 2015!

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itself on selling primarily craft spirits. When Perhaps the true definition of craft may, like champion are decidedly collaborative and making a buying decision, owner Parker art, elude us; but we know it when we see it. require an audience and a community to Newman, has a five word checklist to gauge Or perhaps, like art, the concept of appreciate them.” whether a product is craft: “quality, passion, craft is appropriately fluid—and ready to With passionate advocates both innovation, creativity, and genuineness.” be redefined by those serving and selling. on- and off-premise, and with more He tries to find producers making a grain In the case of Fountainhead—a Chicago and more brands being launched by to glass product. Admittedly, he says, gastropub deep and broad in whiskey and entrepreneurs and distillers big and there are always exceptions; but even the beer—the menu declares “craftsmanship” small, the what-is-craft conversation is exceptions are, in Neman’s opinion, “made as their core objective: “It’s in the drinks only going to get louder. Whether “craft with integrity” and not “just another mass- we serve, it’s in the food we make, and spirits” achieve a meaningful standard, produced product.” However, then we’re it’s in the décor we’ve chosen to surround or get watered down à la “greek yogurt,” back to talking about production size. us… [T]he crafts we’ve chosen to remains to be seen. ■

CRAFT: QUESTIONS ABOUND tions like Tuthilltown (bought by William Grant & Sons) and Bulleit (Diageo). And f one thing is evident, it is that Image vs. origin: Who wins? Brand im- Heaven Hill proved that a large firm can craft as a term is being used with age does not always correspond to the be as innovative as any craft operation, greater frequency, in turn raising point of production. To wit, Coors is not creating Bernheim, the first truly new va- I made with Rocky Mountain water; and riety of American straight wheat whiskey more questions than answers. introduced since Prohibition in 2005. Kirin and Beck’s beers sold in America are

How important are degrees of brewed here, not in Japan and Germany. Are labels billboards? Packaging has craftiness? Do farm distilleries, who The recent spate of class-action lawsuits always been critical in spirits marketing, grow, ferment and distill using estate- is clearly pushing spirits suppliers to em- but never more so than among entrants grown ingredients, deserve more “craft brace greater transparency. Templeton in the craft arena. Is moonshine craft? It is cred” than distillers who buy wine or Rye is a perfect example. Co-founder if the label can make its case. Consider a wash for distillation? And what about Keith Kerkhoff explains, “We’ve been very bottle of Black Button Distilling Apple Pie producers who take neutral grain spirits open about Templeton Rye from when we Moonshine, replete with the trademark- then transform them, or blenders who first launched the brand. We combine the pending catch phrase “Live Large in Small start with finished spirits? Interestingly, distilled rye whiskey from MGP located in Batches.” Or the portfolio of 35 Maple for Michter’s, success in curating small Indiana with our proprietary formula and Street, launched in 2012. According to batches of barrel-aged American whiskey Templeton, Iowa water—every drop is company president August Sebastiani: set the stage for them to begin distilling bottled in Templeton, Iowa. To eliminate “Distinctive bottle shapes, batch numbers their own as well. And where does any confusion we have changed the label and labels that evoke authenticity are “local” fit into the spectrum of craftiness? in an effort to be the most transparent some of the embellishments that make a American Harvest Organic Spirit, based brand in the industry.” statement, and add to the visual and tactile in Idaho, it has little local market to speak experience of all of our spirits brands.” of, but the estate-based “field to bottle” Can macro go micro? It happens all the operation, using organic wheat and water time in wine; no one bats an eye when from the Snake River, hits all the right seeing the name Mondavi on a bottle of craft notes. Reserve Cabernet as well as on a $9.99 Central Coast blend. And who questions Why is craft all-American? Most how Penfolds can bottle both Grange and discussions about craft presume an Bin 389? The push for premiumization all-American context. But what about in varied spirits categories has led many American entrepreneurs who go abroad large producers to develop high-end to source artisanal spirits, such as Brenne, micro-batch offerings, such as Absolut’s the Cognac-barrel-aged single malt Elyx and Elit by Stoli in vodka; Diageo’s whiskey sourced by Allison Patel; or the Orphan Barrel Project; and Jim Beam ultra-rare casks tapped by Nicolas Palazzi Signature Craft. Corporate ownership has of PM Spirits? proved to be a real boon for small opera- E L T E R P S H D O E L G H S FIND THEIR CHATEAU

STOCK UP NOW! Contact your DC&E representative for more information.

Tigger

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GOOD WINE HELPING GOOD DOGS PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY ©2015 ROSENBLUM CELLARS, SONOMA, CA / FACEBOOK.COM/CHATEAULAPAWS / @CHATEAULAPAWS ON INSTAGRAM Umbria’s picturesque medieval village of Montefalco taming the beast Producers learn to bring out the elegant side of Sagrantino, Italy’s newest noble grape

By kristen bieler

ontefalco is a very old wine Sagrantino di Montefalco is currently tion all the polyphenols, sugars and al- region with a very new responsible for some of the most stunning cohol—is incredibly tricky. (Sagrantino’s story to tell. The main wines in Central Italy. tannins have intimidated man for centu- character in that narrative ries: There was a law against picking it too Mis a single grape—Sagrantino. Although One of a Kind Grape early in the 1500s for fear that unripe tan- winemaking has been happening in this Despite the medieval walls and 12th cen- nins would render the wine undrinkable.) part of Umbria for over 2,000 years, and tury cobblestone streets, Montefalco There are no shortcuts to ripe tannins, Sagrantino (which means “sacred”) vibrates with a youthful energy—and is believes Devis Romanelli, whose family has long been crafted by Franciscan dotted with new construction. The most has farmed olives in Umbria since the monks into sweet passito wine, it wasn’t visible symbol of the region’s renaissance late ’70s and began bottling their own produced as a serious dry red wine until is the ultra-modern Castelbuono winery, Sagrantino in 2007. Romanelli was the about 40 years ago. built by the Trentino-based Lunelli family, only producer I visited who still had In fact, the grape had all but owners of the sparkling wine brand Fer- grapes on the vine at the end of October; disappeared by the 1970s when a few rari. The structure, designed by the famed he sometimes harvests into November, committed producers resurrected it. sculptor, Arnaldo Pomodoro, is a massive he told me, convinced that Sagrantino Awarded DOCG status in 1992, the gleaming copper tortoise shell—the sym- can handle the extreme ripeness because past few decades have seen a massive bol of patience, power and longevity. it retains naturally high acidity: “Some transformation. Outsiders have flocked Most of the conversation in Montefal- producers pick early and use oak and to this once-sleepy region in Central Italy, co revolves around how to bring out the battonage [stirring the lees back into the bringing investment and know-how from best in Sagrantino, a monster of a grape. wine] to soften the tannins, but if you other parts of Italy and beyond. Just 15 There is literally no other grape like it: want the seeds to be mature, the grapes years ago there were a mere six wineries; miraculously, Sagrantino is not related to need that extra time on the vine.” now there are 74. any other known varietal. A small berry Achieving the right kind of ripeness With quality up dramatically in the with lots of skin and large seeds, it’s one of isn’t simple, says Falesco’s Riccardo last decade, as producers learn how to the most tannic grapes in the world, and Cotarella, who consults throughout harness the grape’s legendary power, controlling those tannins—not to men- Umbria and Lazio and made his first More than 60 new wineries have been established in Montefalco in the past 15 years. Paolo Bartoloni (right) claims his Le Cimate (above) is the most high-tech in the region, featuring solar-paneled roof and touch-screen panels controlling vinification.

Sagrantino in 2006. “Extreme attention to has been steep. When he took over in 1986, vine management is the key to obtaining he replanted the vines to higher density grapes that have polyphenolic ripeness and reduced the use of new French oak in ery in the region,” complete with touch without an excess of sugar ripeness,” he favor of large vats for aging. Like most of screen panels. Though the Bartoloni fam- explains. “We need to guide the grapes the best producers I’ve tasted, Antonelli ily isn’t new to the region, their winery so everything happens in the right time.” hand-picks and only gently presses. He is just three years old, and in addition to Both Romanelli and Cotarella agree that also pumps over during fermentation in his planting unorthodox grapes like Viognier stressing the vines—which brings about gravity-fed winery, in order to avoid excess and crafting a rosé of Sagrantino, Barto- extra sugar and flavor concentration tannin extraction. Steps like these are loni constantly experiments with a wide much desired in most wine regions— just now being practiced on a wider scale range of French and Slovenian barrels would be a disaster for Sagrantino. in the region. with a variety of toasts, sizes and age. One advantage to having so many Even Montefalco’s most historic Sagrantino Finds newcomers in Montefalco is that pro- wineries are revamping their winemaking. its Footing ducers’ hands aren’t bound by long-held Scacciadiavoli (which means “Devil “My first glass of Sagrantino was one of my traditions, and there is a great willingness Banisher” for an exorcism which took th worst memories ever,” says Roberto Paris, to experiment. At the sustainably-run and place here in the 17 century), one wine director at Il Buco, in downtown solar-powered Perticaia, which just com- of the oldest wineries in Montefalco, Manhattan. “It was the harshest wine pleted its 11th vintage, young winemaker switched gears in the late 90s, embracing I’d ever tasted.” Paris has since become Alessdandro Meniconi is working with technology, temperature control and Sagrantino’s most important ambassador small oak barrels and micro-oxygenation French oak. “We decided to restart and in the U.S., turning Il Buco into a to create wines that are softer and more take a more modern approach,” says destination for Umbrian wine (in the approachable young. At Le Cimate win- Liù Pambuffetti, whose family owns the early ’90s when he began, Paolo Bea and ery, 32-year-old Paolo Bartoloni proudly estate. “We are still a traditional winery Arnaldo Caprai were the only Sagrantinos lays claim to “the most high-tech win- and believe in long bottle aging, but imported). “It used to be a lottery to drink wanted our wines to be friendlier and less Sagrantino; what has happened in the last rustic.” The Pambuffettis also craft two 15 years has been astounding.” unusual yet tasty Sagrantino Spumantes. “Sagrantino was not ready for the “We thought, ‘what do we do with young spotlight 15 years ago,” says Filippo Sagrantino vines with northern exposure?’ Antonelli, who runs his family’s winery. The grapes have the perfect pH and “It was too tannic, too green and often too acidity for sparkling wine,” she says. oaked. It’s very different today and we see it can be truly elegant.” The Style Spectrum The Antonelli family, which purchased Discussion over the distinct Sagrantino this 13th century estate in 1881, was styles which have emerged tends to instrumental in Sagrantino’s revival, yet position Arnaldo Caprai and Paolo Bea at opposite ends of a spectrum. Caprai is Filippo himself admits the learning curve Marco Caprai’s family winery is widely credited with reviving serious dry Sagrantino in the 1970s. sagrantino

widely credited with reviving Sagrantino farmed this land since the 1500s, but in the late 1970s, and campaigning for its didn’t produce wine until 1980. Paolo’s DOC status in 1979. Run by son Marco son Giampiero is at the helm today, and today, Caprai is the largest vintner in the has pushed the estate even father in the region, producing 800,000 bottles a year. non-interventionist direction as an active His style is unapologetically modern, right member of the Natural Wine movement, down to his sleek tasting room, the first of which believes in using organically-grown its kind to host visitors in the region. grapes, and adding nothing and removing Giampiero and Paolo Bea represent the non- A whirling dervish of energy, Marco interventionist approach to making Sagrantino. nothing once in the cellar. himself is a tireless promoter for Sagran- “I want to taste the identity of the tino on the global stage, and his precise, with an emphasis on institutional and land,” he tells me. “In every wine, you muscular wines are some of Montefalco’s environmental sustainability, and he has have 80% water, 12-15% alcohol—that most awarded. The family has spent mil- opened a technical school at his winery. last 5-8% is the identity of the land, and lions on research, and it was Caprai’s ex- Caprai has invented trucks which reduce it comes from the seeds, the skins and periments with clonal selection that has spraying by 95%, weather stations to track the juice of the grapes.” Bea uses only provided the region with much of the mold in the vineyard, and GPS devices to natural yeasts present on the grape’s skins Sagrantino vines now cultivated. In the monitor workers. “We must become more to kick-start fermentation, leaves his winery, Caprai is experimenting with new efficient and learn how to produce more wines to macerate with their character- squat tanks which give the grapes 250% with less,” he explains. imparting skins and seeds far longer more skin contact. At the other end of the style spectrum than conventional winemakers, and Caprai’s ambition for the region goes is Paolo Bea. While most producers won’t fine or filter before bottling. “Most far beyond winemaking at this point; debate how to harness, tame or control wines are a construction,” Bea describes. his New Green Revolution aims to the wily Sagrantino grape, Bea takes “They may be good, but they are a transform Italy’s approach to agriculture, a hands-off approach. The family has man-made construction.”

Sagrantinos worth the hunt

Antonelli “Contrario” a beautifully focused wine, with Falesco RC2 Le Cimate Sagrantino IGT: black cherry, anise, pepper and Sagrantino 2009: Sagrantino 2009: Made from younger vines without ripe tannins. (Empson USA) A stunning wine that achieves Dense and rich with licorice and any oak, this bright, fresh wine balance between decadent dark black pepper notes and loads is packed with vibrant fruit and Castelbuono fruit and meat flavors, accents of black fruit, this shows great notes of meat and spice; an Carapace of spice, tar and leather; fine- focus and will no doubt become absolute steal at $20 SRP. (Omni) Sagrantino 2008: grained tannins persist on the more interesting with additional This perfumed red was lengthy, silky finish. (Frederick bottle age. Arnaldo Caprai aged three years in Wildman) Collepiano Sagrantino large casks, hence the Romanelli 2009: terrific fruit purity. Silky Fratelli Pardi Sagrantino 2009: From a blockbuster tannins persist on the Sagrantino 2009: A burly, massive wine that vintage, this is brawny velvety finish. (Palm Bay Notes of coffee and vanilla (thanks still retains a lovely freshness; yet elegant with licorice, Imports) to 18 months in barrique) are floral aromatics give way to black fruit and spice. woven with red berries, spice and concentrated flavors of meat Aged 22 months Colpetrone softened tannins. (Marc and ripe black fruit on the well- in French barrique, Sagrantino 2008: de Grazia Imports) structured palate. it shows powerful From one of the region’s tannins, and a fine core larger estates; also among Perticaia Scacciadiavoli of minerals. (Folio Fine the most affordable. Sagrantino 2009: Sagrantino 2008: Wine Partners) Spicy red berries and Cedary and smoky Extra bottle age adds nice vanilla on the nose and with nice red fruit and notes of leather and earth to full- Bellafonte 2009: concentrated fruit, leather spice notes with a fresh bodied flavors of intense Made with native yeasts and and tobacco on the well- undercurrent of graphite. black fruit and spice; tannins aged in large Slovenian casks, integrated palate. (Total Beverage nicely mellowed. (Selected Bellafonte’s second vintage is (Vias Imports) Solutions) Estates of Europe) LEFT to RIGHT: Thick-skinned Sagrantino grapes; Perticaia’s Guido Guardigli with winemaker Alessandro Meniconi; Hand-harvesting.

“Bea is like the Taliban—he won’t Blockbusters with Grace terroir and a funky earthy quality which compromise,” says Giuseppe Rosati, While big-boned, blockbuster wines make it quintessentially Italian.” wine director at NYC’s The Lamb’s are out of fashion with the sommelier Sagrantino was a hand-sell in the Club. And there is a high price to pay set today, Sagrantino walks the line early days at Il Buco, notes Wine Director when things go wrong: in 2013 and where refinement meets power, offering Roberto Paris, but with 10 producers on 2014, Bea, who refuses to spray cop- nuance, minerality and even grace. “It his list and two by-the-glass offerings, the per, watched all his Sagrantino grapes is a muscular wine, but that doesn’t wine today is a signature of the restaurant. rot on the vine. His conviction—and mean it’s not elegant,” describes Rosati. “I recommend Sagrantino for someone ethereal wines—have made Paolo “My mission is to design wines that fit who likes a big, fleshy Syrah but wants Bea one of the most coveted produc- our restaurant’s food and with dishes something with more interesting layers ers, particularly within the American like ragu pasta and braised lamb, you and flavors,” he says. “Almost 100% of the sommelier crowd. need a wine with some power.” Still, people who try Sagrantino will reorder.” One of my favorite discoveries was Sagrantino is not an easy-drinking Ginsburg lists 15 different Sagran- newcomer Bellafonte, where Milan- wine, he maintains: “If you have not tinos—two by the glass—and they businessman Peter Heilbron hews a tasted a wine like this, you need to represent one out of every 25 bottles sold middle ground between modern and spend time to understand it. Sagrantino at Costata, proof that “if you build it they traditional—embracing technology, will not always win you over on will come,” he says. “Most importers and while using Bea-like techniques (no the first time.” distributors are afraid to take on more filtration, native yeasts, large Slovenian “There is no other wine exactly like it, than one or two, but I have found if you barrels, no filtration) to achieve which can be disorienting at first,” says offer more the market is there.” Sagrantinos of rare complexity. “I Raphael Ginsburg, wine director at Man- Plus, they are competitively priced, he wanted to push Sagrantino farther hattan’s Ai Fiori and Costata. “It’s full believes. “Compared to other full-bodied in terms of elegance and refinement; in body, tannin and fruit yet still shows Italian wines, Sagrantino offers great coming from the north, I brought a value,” says Ginsburg. “A bottle might different sensibility,” Heilbron told me. cost $100 on a list; but you would pay at His solar-powered winery is constructed least $200 for an Amarone, Brunello or a with metal crates filled with stones to Super Tuscan for the same profile.” ensure natural humidity, an idea he took Just one more reason that of Italy’s from Montalcino. thousands of indigenous varieties, Sa- “People from this region don’t know grantino is currently generating some of how special it is—it’s still a very hidden the most excitement. “Producers here part of Italy,” Heilbron describes. Two big today place more emphasis on crafting advantages Umbria has over its far more Sagrantinos with a greater expression of famous neighbor, Tuscany: “Tremendous place and territory, and you can taste this biodiversity—it helps to not have a in the wines,” says Cotarella. “This is ulti- concentration of vines. And land prices mately what will give Umbria the dignity are much less than Tuscany.” Wine director Raphael Ginsburg carries more it deserves.” n than a dozen Sagrantinos on the lists he over- sees at Ai Fiori and Costata in Manhattan. NEWPRODUCTS &PROMOTIONS

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BY JACK ROBERTIELLO

ver try a Tiki cocktail with not a drop of rum? Hard to imagine but there it is: the MauserE (Fino, Amontillado and Moscatel Sherries, lime, grapefruit, ginger, grenadine and two types of bitters) on the menu at Donostia, a Basque- style pintxos restaurant in Manhattan. Getting attention for a drink menu today isn’t easy, as a thousand bars seem to bloom every month. But as cocktail culture continues to evolve, those aperitif, lower alcohol drinks like the Mauser that are neither excessively boozy nor overpoweringly complex are attracting curious attention. Tending to offer a more subtle, appetizing experience, and based frequently on Sherry, Port, amari, vermouth or other MARMITE fortified or aromatized wines, BLACK VELVET these drinks provide a different A reduction of Marmite and sort of savory beverage Guinness with Champagne experience. The trend is Duck & Waffle welcoming to both seasoned and neophyte palates, even serving as a bridge cocktail for those who tend to prefer wine. Richard Woods, head Lower-alcohol drinks also provide with Champagne, for of spirit and cocktail development for some operational values—an operator can instance). He says in SushiSamba owner charge almost as much for something like the UK, there’s a Samba Brands, soon to launch Duck & Waffle the Bamboo (dry Sherry, vermouth and growing bartender bitters) as it can for one made with full trend to develop proof spirit. But four Bamboos will leave drinks with flavor and potency profile most guests compos mentis, while that many lower than the punchy stirred drinks Manhattans can set the room aswirl. so popular today. “It’s a good intro into This isn’t a quirk in cocktail culture, but alcohol for those who are not too familiar a step in awareness that not all consumers or those who find it too astringent,” have iron palates and constitutions. It’s easy says Woods. “There is a large number of to make an impression when ingredients people who don’t appreciate alcohol, and include a 100-proof spirit—what’s harder there are merits in adding drinks with low is the merging of more subtle spirits. alcohol to bridge them from non-alcohol Take the menu at the renowned to a full-on alcohol drink.” NoMad Hotel in Manhattan, where At the fine dining outpost Craigie head bartender Leo Robitschek and staff on Main in Cambridge, MA, drinks that host numerous spirit and cocktail events. fall into the lower-alcohol camp have Even non-alcohol is well thought out always been a feature, says Beverage here (basil-fennel house soda, anyone?) Director Jared Sadoian. Sanders’ book here, as well as aperitif cocktails like the helped inspire a separate section of Shuttlecock (Cabernet Franc, Moscatel lower alcohol Sherry– and vermouth-led THE TREND IS Sherry, maraschino liqueur, yellow drinks. “We’re very much a food focused WELCOMING TO Chartreuse, lemon, blackberries mint operation and structure our beverage and orange) and the Sippy Cup (Averna, program to highlight the food. One really BOTH SEASONED AND Vermouth di Torino, ginger and lime). great way to do that is to feature drinks NEOPHYTE PALATES, “Lower proof drinks have been part of and ingredients that aren’t as boozy and the cocktail scene since the first cocktails,” palate crushing as many cocktails can EVEN SERVING AS A says Dinah Sanders, author of The Art of be,” says Sadoian. He commonly hears BRIDGE COCKTAIL FOR the Shim: Low-Alcohol Cocktails to Keep from servers that guests served strong You Level. She cites the Sherry Cobbler cocktails are less apt to have a second THOSE WHO TEND TO as an early version of the quaffable lower- bottle of wine at the table; offering lower PREFER WINE. proof drink once commonly served and alcohol options has helped nudge up now making a return to menus. wine and cocktail sales. A drink like the Sophia Loren (two ounces Aperol, 1 ounce lemon juice and RETRO INGREDIENTS ½ ounce bourbon, with rhubarb bitters), STEP UP created by bartender Kim Roselle, provides It’s been some time since Americans a great example of a recipe that inverts commonly drank Sherry and vermouth, the traditional main/complementary but Craigie on Main’s reputation for spirit proportion, providing the drink taking culinary chances means repeat with body and depth as well as brightness, customers are willing to sample unusual she points out. suggestions, he says. As a result, one of their most popular drinks is Sherry- LIGHTER DRINKS MONTILLA based. Called the Grand Tour, the drink YIELD DIVIDENDS AMANECER is essentially a Margarita with most of the Richard Woods, head of spirit and Donostia, NYC tequila replaced with dry Amontillado cocktail development for SushiSamba Sherry, and has proven successful enough parent company Samba Brands, soon to to make its way onto the standard menu. launch Duck & Waffle in the U.S., lists a Other lower-proof drinks include the number of beer–, wine– and Champagne– Flying Horseman (Chardonnay, Dolin based drinks on his aggressively culinary blanc vermouth, Benedictine, lemon), menu (the Marmite Black Velvet mixes the classic Chrysanthemum (Dolin a reduction of Marmite and Guinness dry vermouth, Benedictine, absinthe, º LOW ALCOHOL COCKTAILS

infused Amontillado, Noilly Pratt Ambre vermouth, black garlic tincture and orange bitters]. For people who are looking more toward savory cocktails and lower proof, these work great.” As is the case at other restaurants with a strong wine program, guests don’t necessarily want powerful cocktails before dining at Dirty Habit. With more than 30 Sherries served, however, getting customers to try drinks DIRTY employing them has gotten DECISION a bit easier. “It’s cool to me Chanterelle mushroom-infused Amontillado, Noilly Pratt Ambre as a bartender to see people vermouth, black garlic tincture get excited about Sherry and and orange bitters Sherry cocktails,” Means says. Dirty Habit, CA “I definitely have put drinks on menus before that SPANNING SEASONAL were more aperitif-style, but this TO SAVORY is the first time I have had to really think On their seasonal drink menu, beer- and about it and base an entire menu on low wine-based drinks have rotated in and out alcohol,” says drink creator and bartender as well, one recently combining bourbon Will Peet. As befits a Basque style with a saison beer and eucalyptus, another restaurant, he eschews French aperitifs mixing red wine with velvet falernum, and Italian amari, employing only wines, lime juice and 12-year-old rum. beers and ciders from Spain. In St. Louis, Taste by Niche lead Lower alcohol drinks are also a logical mixologist Kyle Mathis twice annually fit for operations positioned as healthier creates a new cocktail menu; recent options; at SunCafé in Studio City, CA, lower-alcohol drinks include the Heart cocktails include the Elderflower Bellini of Ruby (Cynar, Fruitlab Jasmine liqueur, (St.-Germain, Peychaud’s bitters, peach absinthe, grapefruit, lime, grapefruit soda purée and Prosecco) and a Michelada and Peychaud’s bitters). His favorite (tomato juice, peppers, lime and spices with new cocktail is the Benelli, mixing pale ale) and the Carosello Cooler (Cynar, Lambrusco with simple syrup, orange oil sour Belgian beer, mint and lemon.) and thyme tincture. Bartender Michael Barret developed At Craigie on Main, Beverage Director Jared “The Benelli has a crisp, aromatic two sangrias that highlight the eatery’s Sadoian notes that offering lower-alcohol quality and is really a take on a options has helped nudge up wine and organic fresh-squeezed juices: the Rosa cocktail sales. Champagne cocktail. We tend toward Grenada Sangria (Languedoc red, more savory drinks, and one way we’re seasonal pomegranate and rosemary) and orange oil) and the Bitter Giuseppe making cocktails slightly lower and the Sidra Blanca Sangria (Sonoma apple (Cynar, Carpano Antica formula sweet keeping bright profiles is cutting down cider, apples, Languedoc white blend, vermouth, citrus bitters). base spirits, say, from instead of one and a cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice). Like with Craigie’s unexpected success half or two ounces to just one ounce and Says Nevin Kumar, SunCafé’s with the Grand Tour, when the lower- increasing the amounts of vermouth or beverage director, the drinks fit well with alcohol Sherry- and vermouth-based drinks aromatized wines,” he says. the lighter fare served, and even with a served at Dirty Habit in San Francisco took While culinary minded operations full liquor license, most of the SunCafé off, bar manager Brian Means was gratified: are leading the way with lower alcohol customers want fresh, organic and only “I love Sherry and I wanted to make drinks, other operations do so by concept light alcohol when dining there. But they cocktails that are interesting using them, or due to license limitations. also want creative and interesting: “We but I was really surprised when people While a full liquor license is possible had a lot of fun playing with beer and really responded so well to the Black Flip at Donostia in NYC, with more than 35 wine, with the template already set up for [bianco vermouth, green Chartreuse, Sherries and eight vermouths by the glass organic and vegan. It was a challenge, but lime and ginger] and to the more savory the original concept was to build from with lower alcohol, the fresh flavors of our Dirty Decision [chanterelle mushroom- low alcohol and stay mainly Spanish. ingredients come through.” ■ CRAIGIE ON MAIN PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL PIAZZA CRAIGIE ON MAIN PHOTOGRAPHS BY LIKE WHAT YOU SEE? GET THE WHOLE PICTURE

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