The Other Chiantis

Eight appellations produce Chianti DOCG— but seven of them live in the long shadow of the Classico zone.

ROGER MORRIS

Roger Morris writes Chianti were a world-famous rock band on tour, most concert- about wine, food, and goers would be shouting out the name of its sexy lead singer: travel for a number of consumer and trade If “Classico! Classico! Classico!” But what about those other guys publications, including on stage? Wine Enthusiast, Robb Consider the plight of the serious producers who make wine in the Report, and Drinks Busi- hills overlooking Florence or Siena. Or those who own centuries-old es- ness (U.K.). Author of tates near the communes of Rùina or Cavriglia. No matter how much The Brandywine Book of Food, he lives in Pennsyl- praise they receive for their Chiantis, they also hear the same question vania with his artist-wife time and again: “Your wine is great—but do you make a Classico?”

Ella and six yard cats. Many consumers—and more than a few professionals—still think the Photos courtesy of Marchesi dè Frescobaldi

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Origins of the Chianti Zones The irst record of Chianti as a wine, dating to 1398, describes it as white. In the centuries that followed, however, Chianti developed a rep- utation as a Sangiovese-based red from a small, hilly area between Florence to the northwest and Siena to the southeast. In 1713, the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosimo III, formalized the re- gion’s boundaries, thereby dictating the world’s irst geographically based wine-production stan- dards. As Chianti’s fame spread, both demand and prices increased. Producers in neighbor- ing areas even used the name to sell their own wines. Some of these neighbors, including Car- mignano DOCG and Pomino DOC, have since been designated as separate appellations. In 1932, the body now known as the Dalmas-

Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi’s Castello di Nipozzano estate in Pelago, Chianti Rùfina (far left), and production director Lamberto Frescobaldi (left).

Boundary of original 1932 Classico zone Colli Colli Rùfina Prato Fiorentini Montalbano Florence Pisa Montespertoli

Livorno Classico Arezzo Colline Pisane term “Classico” refers to a type of Siena Chianti, along the lines of a riserva. Colli In fact, Chianti Classico is an ap- Chianti Aretini pellation, one of eight that produce Zones Tuscany’s fabled red wine—al- Montepulciano Colli Senesi though, since 1996, Classico has Colli Senesi constituted its own separate De- Montalcino nominazione d’Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). This article is about the other seven.

Sommelier Journal 79 oldest family wine business—Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, whose Frescobaldi’s Castello di holdings date back Nipozzano (above); cellar to the early 14th cen- of Castello di Monsanto so Commission made several rulings concerning tury—is located here. Frescobaldi’s Castello di in Barberino Val d’Elsa, Chianti Colli Senesi (bot- Chianti—rulings whose wisdom is debated to Nipozzano is one of a handful of Rùina brands tom right). this day. First, it enlarged the originally demar- that are internationally known. Yet no part of cated zone by adding vineyards located immedi- Chianti Rùina adjoins the Classico zone (a sep- ately to the north and south, calling the expanded arate entity, the Pomino DOC, lies within the region “Chianti Classico.” Second, it created six Rùina borders). other Chianti classiications to cover areas that Chianti Colli Fiorentini begins at the south- had already been trading in the name. All of ern border of Rùina, sprawling out south and these could make DOC (and later DOCG) wines, east of Florence to form a shield around the just like Classico; an even larger area was granted northern third of Classico (in fact, it borders most the right to make plain “Chianti” of no further of the Chianti subregions). Some of its vineyards designation. Third, the commission clearly spec- overlook Florence from across the Arno. iied the grapes that could be used to augment Farther south, along the eastern edge of m) Sangiovese, and it set various other standards for Classico, Chianti Colli Aretini is fragmented the production of appellation wines, including riserve. Four of the six regions thus cre- ated are situated in the hills (colli) around key cities and, accordingly, were named Chianti Colli Fioren- tini, Chianti Colli Aretini, Chianti Colli Senesi, and Chianti Colline Pisane. The other two are Chianti Rùina and Chianti Montalbano (Chianti Montespertoli was added in 1996). Chianti Rùina surrounds its namesake town northeast of Flor- ence, along the Arno River. It has long been known as a superior pro-

duction zone; in fact, the world’s Photo courtesy of Marchesi dè Frescobaldi Castello (top), di Monsanto (botto

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into three separate ar- eas around the town of Arezzo—two on the southern side of the Arno and one on the north. Chianti Colli Sene- si is also divided into three sections. One forms a narrow band between the city of Siena and the Clas- sico zone, then con- tinues for miles past San Gimignano to the north; the second is Castello di Monsanto estate (above); Fattoria Selvapiana (bottom left) and library wines centered around the (bottom right) in Rùfina. town of Montalcino, upstream from Grosseto and Scansano; the third by active consorzios (promotional organizations) encompasses Montepulciano and reaches east to in Rùina, Colli Fiorentini, and Colli Senesi, as Tuscany’s border with Umbria. Colli Senesi is the well as by published ratings of estates and bot- largest of the seven non-Classico regions. tlings. For example, Gambero Rosso, the Italian To the west and northwest of the Clas- wine bible, has consistently recognized far more sico zone, on Chianti Colli Fiorentini’s western wines from these three zones than from the oth- boundary, lie Chianti Montespertoli and Chi- er four as superior in its annual rankings. Addi- anti Montalbano, the latter of which once en- tionally, more of their wines are imported to the compassed the now-independent Carmignano United States, albeit in smaller quantities than DOCG. those from Chianti Classico. Chianti Colline Pisane is the most isolated of Current regulations dictate that non-Classico the group, bordering none of the others. It over- Chianti DOCG wines must contain at least 75% looks the city of Pisa from across the Arno. Sangiovese, with a maximum of 90% (Classico Rùina, Colli Fiorentini, and Colli Senesi are itself requires at least 80% Sangiovese). A wide all fairly well established not only for wineries variety of other grapes are permitted to make up that have historically turned out superior wine, the remaining 10-25% of the blend. Rùina’s pre- but also for those that have upgraded their qual- scribed blending ratios are typical: 5-10% must ity in recent years. By contrast, many of their be Canaiolo Nero and another 5-10% Trebbiano counterparts in the other four non-Classico re- Toscano or Malvasia Bianca Lunga (the inal al- gions have long sold much of their wine in bulk. lowable 15% is unspeciied). Thus, the white om) This sub-hierarchy has been further buttressed grapes that have historically been part of the Photos courtesy of Castello di Monsanto Fattoria (top), Selvapiana (bott

Sommelier Journal 81 Agriturismo (left) and tasting room (right) at Azienda Agricola Il Palagetto in San Gimignano, Chianti Colli Senesi.

Chianti mix are still allowed—unlike in Chianti The range of soil types varies greatly from region Classico, where they were outlawed in 2006. to region, although most have combinations of Maximum yields among the seven zones dif- clay and limestone. Even within a given region, fer slightly. Rùina, Colli Fiorentini, and Montes- the altitudes, aspects, and marine inluences are pertoli all permit only 80 quintals (8 metric tons) quite diverse. (Of course, the same observation per hectare (about 3.5 tons per acre), while the can be made about Chianti Classico.) other four permit yields as high as 100 quintals But while this diversity may discourage gen- per hectare. The minimum aging time in barrel eralizations, it can also be a strength. According is four months everywhere except in Rùina and to Michele Manelli, partner-winemaker of Colli Colli Fiorentini, which require seven months. Senesi’s Salcheto, “This means our wine issues All seven subregions specify 38 months’ aging from the clay soils of windy Montepulciano to for their riserve. those of sandy and warm Montalcino all the way to the slightly colder and galestro- [marl- and limestone-] dominated style of the northern prov- Deining Qualities ince, the same as Classicos are.” Manelli sees Since it is widely recognized that politics had two schools of thought emerging among Colli as much to do with the original ap- pellation borders as terroir did, it’s Salcheto estate in Montepulciano, Chianti Colli Senesi. dificult to deine overarching char- acteristics of the non-Classico zones based on terroir, lavor, or longevity.

Harvest at Salcheto. Photos courtesy of Azienda Agricola Il Palagetto (top)

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Senesi winemakers: “The irst looks outstanding recent releases for very bright, bold red fruit along with smooth, soft tannins; the sec- Busi Chianti Rùfina 2011 $12 ond tries to express what could be With somewhat gamey, Rhône-like aromas and lavors as well as considered more traditional—tight lots of ine tannins, this wine begs for osso buco. tannins with a hint of sober wood and more vibrant acidity.” Busi Chianti Rùfina Riserva 2006 $21 Lamberto Frescobaldi, who oversees all wine produc- Mellow aromas of wood and fruit combine with traditional tion for the Frescobaldi family, explains that in Rùina “some lavors of round, dark fruit and neutral oak to make this a great wine for purists. years ago, there were not many clones of Sangiovese avail- able, and the most planted were highly vigorous. That made Castello di Monsanto Chianti Colli Senesi Monrosso 2010 $14 location very important; soils, climate, and sunlight became This single-vineyard bottling is light in both color and body. key factors in quality. Considering that Rùina is generally Mild cherry notes on the nose and palate are backed by ample colder than other Chianti areas, the wines needed more time inishing acidity. to evolve and become gentle on the palate. Thus, they became Conte Ferdinando Guicciardini Chianti Colli Fiorentini known for great aging potential.” Though ageability is still Il Cortile del Castello di Poppiano 2010 $12 an asset, he inds, there is room for a wider range of styles Dark in color but surprising light in body—and very mellow, today. “Soils with less clay, southern exposure, and clones with low acidity and rich lavors of cherry and currant. with smaller berries can help produce amazing wines to be Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina 2010 $17 enjoyed within 10 years,” he says, whereas the combination of This ripe, juicy Chianti displays cherry and berry lavors on a “soils with more clay and less sun exposure as well as clones leshy, long palate with well-balanced tannins and acidity. with smaller berries is the best suited to produce wines that can age 40 years or more.” Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina Riserva A couple of years ago, I attended a conference in Florence Vigneto Bucerchiale 2009 $34 held by the Consorzio Chianti Colli Fiorentini, which rep- Muscular yet somewhat elegant, Selvapiana’s single-vineyard resents 27 producers in the region. Founded in 1994, it re- riserva shows a touch of gaminess as well as old-style oak on a irm inish. cently announced a mission to “protect” the reputation of the DOCG. “So far, we have managed to distinguish Chianti Colli Malenchini Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2011 $13 Fiorentini as a Chianti denomination,” says current president Spicy, light cherry lavors are supported by excellent structure Marina Malenchini, “and most of our commercial partners and acidity, along with some bitterness around the edges. Mild recognize the great value of the Firenze brand.” Increasingly, tannins linger on the inish. the word “Firenze,” the Italian name for Florence, has been Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Chianti Rùfina appearing in large type on Colli Fiorentini labels, emphasiz- Riserva Nipozzano 2009 $22 ing their association with the famous capital city. The fresh scent of lowers through an open window precedes Malenchini, a family that has been making wines since an initial attack of rich fruit, but the inish exhibits notes of oak 1836 on an old Medici estate overlooking Florence, exports barrel, earth, and mellow chocolate. about 80% of its 140,000 annual bottles to the United States, Pietrafitta Chianti Colli Senesi 2009 $12 but the majority are basic Chianti and Indicazione Geograica Quite loral in its aromatics, this Colli Senesi offers mellow, candied fruit lavors and a irm inish. Malenchini estate (Villa Medicea di Lilliano) in Grassina, Chianti Colli Fiorentini. Salcheto Chianti Colli Senesi 2010 $16 Earthy and woodsy aromas dominate the nose. Mature cherry notes mingle with well-integrated oak on the satisfying palate; the pleasant inish is marked by hints of buttermilk or sour cream. Tenuta di Trecciano Chianti Colli Senesi 2011 $12 Beautiful fresh-cherry aromas are followed by bright red fruits on the relatively light midpalate, leading to a crisp, lemon-peel inish. Tenute Nicolai Chianti Colli Senesi 2009 $14 Enticing fruit and loral perfumes presage lavors of juicy cherry and marzipan. Although light in body, this wine shows good structure and irm tannins. Photo by Roger Morris

Sommelier Journal 83 key producers Busi Conte Ferdinando Malenchini Pietrafitta Tenuta di Azienda Agricola Guicciardini Via Lilliano e Meoli, 82 Località Cortenanno, 54 Trecciano Travignoli Castello di Poppiano 50015 Grassina 53037 San Gimignano 53018 Sovicille Via Travignoli, 78 50025 Montespertoli +39-556-42602 +39-577-943200 +39-577-314-357 50060 Pelago +39-558-2315 www.malenchini.it www.agriturismo www.trecciano.it +39-558-361098 www.conteguicciardini.it Importer: Hart Ventures, pietrafitta.com Importer: Vignaioli Importer: Kysela Pere et Importer: Downey Inc. Importer: Alberico Wines Selection Fils, Ltd. Selections Los Angeles Cherry Hill, NJ www.vignaioliamerica.com www.kysela.com www.downeyselections. Marchesi de’ Salcheto Tenute Nicolai com Castello di Frescobaldi Via di Villa Bianca, 15 Palagetto S.r.l. Monsanto Fattoria Via di Nipozzano 53045 Montepulciano Via Racciano, 10 Via Monsanto, 8 Selvapiana Nipozzano +39-578-799031 53037 San Gimignano 50021 Barberino Val d’Elsa Località Selvapiana 50060 Pelago www.salcheto.it +39-577-943090 +39-558-059000 50068 Rùfina +39-558-311050 Importer: Massanois www.palagetto.it www.castellodimonsanto. +39-558-369848 www.frescobaldi.it Imports LLC Importer: Angelini Wine, it www.selvapiana.it Importer: Folio Fine Wine massanois.com Ltd. Importer: MW Imports Importer: Dalla Terra Partners www.angeliniwine.com mwimportsusa.com Winery Direct www.foliowine.com www.dallaterra.com

Tipica (IGT) wines. Because “we prefer a younger style ing with Chianti Classico on the world stage? Probably of Sangiovese,” Marina says, the Malenchinis use Ca- not. But Malenchini thinks progress is being made: naioli as their primary blending grape. Elsewhere in “We can fairly say that Chianti Colli Fiorentini is giv- the region, Merlot is more popular, in part because ing a satisfying performance, increasing its presence it can be easily blended into IGT bottlings. But at in the international marketplace.” Indeed, the growing Malenchini, Marina notes, “the soil is mainly calcaire availability of Chiantis from all the non-Classico zones over clay,” a combination that seems to promote exces- should give U.S. sommeliers and their customers an sive vine vigor in Merlot. opportunity to explore Tuscany in greater depth—at Will the non-Classico regions ever gain equal foot- more affordable prices.

Old bottles at Malenchini (left); Marina Malenchini, president of the Consorzio Chianti Colli Fiorentino (right). Photos by Roger Morris

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