Report on CliffCare - Climbers Survey

January/February 2019

Prepared for the VCC by Glen Donohue Final Version 1.0 April 2019 Survey Overview

The aims of the survey were:

● To establish a profile of Victorian climbers ● To gather the attitudes of climbers toward the physical and indigenous cultural environment of Victorian cliffs

The survey was open to all climbers but focused on outdoor , including trad, and

The survey was open for responses for 50 days from 28 December 2018 to 16 February 2019

There were 657 responses to the survey. Section 1 - Who is climbing? Commentary

70% of respondents said they have been climbing for longer than 5 years.

This indicates the respondents were generally experienced climbers. Commentary

64% of respondents were aged between 20 and 40 Commentary

Most respondents were male, possibly reflective of the climbing population

Commentary

Most respondents (81%) are working. This probably correlates with the age of respondents with 83% around working age (20 to 50 years old). Commentary

54% of respondents live in Melbourne. 23% lived outside Victoria. Commentary

Respondents could provide multiple responses.

37% of respondents belong to a Victorian-based climbing club Section 2 - Where are you climbing? Commentary

Respondents could provide multiple responses.

Most respondents have climbed sport, trad and gym in the last 12 months, closely followed by bouldering. Commentary

This was a ‘gating’ question. Respondents who only climbed indoors (3%) ended the survey here and were not included in any further responses. Section 3 - What are you climbing outdoors? Commentary

Trad (single and multi pitch - 41%) and sport climbing (37%) was the main style of outdoor climbing. Commentary

63% of respondents were climbing regularly or frequently in the last 12 months Commentary

Respondents could provide multiple responses.

In the last 12 months, respondents have climbed most often at the Grampians, followed by Mount Arapiles. Commentary

Respondents could provide multiple responses.

Most respondents (76%) do not develop new routes/problems Commentary

Of the respondents that develop new routes/problems, most (71%) develop less than 5 per year. Section 4 - Where do you stay when climbing? Commentary

51% of respondents usually stay in organised accommodation when climbing, such as a campground, caravan park or accommodation. 26% usually bush camp. Commentary

Respondents who camp mostly use a tent or similar (84%) Section 5 - Have you been affected by environmental issues? Commentary

Respondents could provide multiple responses.

Most respondents get information through social media, with Chockstone and The Crag frequently mentioned as sources.

Signs at climbing/bouldering areas are alo used for information (57%). Commentary

Most respondent (69%) have not been impacted by access of cliffs. If yes, please provide details of how your climbing plans been impacted by the closure of roads or the restriction of access to cliffs?

Total Responses 172 Commentary

Road/Track Closure 90 responses 52% This question was a text-based response. The Restricted Access 44 responses 26% responses have been classified according to reference to road/track closures and/or restricted Referred to 68 responses access. Response have also been grouped that Grampians/Mount Arapiles refer to specific locations. Referred to Eastern Victoria 5 responses

* A response may be reported in multiple locations Section 6 - Climber’s Attitudes Statement 1

There have been discussions amongst climbers, as well as non climbers, that climbing and bouldering in certain areas, such as heavily used cliffs in national parks like the Grampians, should be controlled to manage the impacts to the environment and indigenous cultural heritage.

The following charts respond to this statement. Commentary

57% of respondents agree or strongly agree than climbing/bouldering should be managed.

Note that later responses indicate this does not necessarily mean formally managed or controlled. Commentary

This is a similar response pattern to the previous question, indicating respondents associate these questions. Commentary

This is a similar response pattern to the previous two question, indicating respondents associate these questions. Commentary

This is a similar response pattern to the previous three question, indicating respondents associate these questions. Commentary

This is a similar response pattern to the previous four question, indicating respondents associate these questions. Commentary

Most respondents (79%) do not support a permit system Commentary

There are no strong trends in this responses, suggesting the respondents hold a spread of views. Commentary

There are no strong trends in this responses, suggesting the respondents hold a spread of views. Statement 2

National parks, such as the Grampians, are managed to protect the environment and indigenous cultural heritage of the park. The following questions refer to climbing and bouldering in a national park.

The following charts respond to this statement. Commentary

While 47% of respondents agree or strongly agree climbing/bouldering is damaging the cliff environment, while 28% disagree or strongly disagree. However, 24% neither agree or disagree.

Further information is required to understand the intent of the cohort that neither agree or disagree. Commentary

This is a similar response pattern to the previous question, indicating respondents associate these questions. Commentary

This is a similar response pattern to the previous two questions, indicating respondents associate these questions. Commentary

This is a similar response pattern to the previous three questions, indicating respondents associate these questions. Commentary

There are no strong trends in this responses, suggesting the respondents hold a spread of views. The Victorian Climbing Club and CliffCare have proposed a voluntary moratorium to temporarily refrain from establishing new routes in the . What do you think a management plan for the Grampians should say about establishing new climbing routes and boulder problems, and the use of fixed protection?

Total Responses 384 Commentary

Support use of fixed 109 responses 56% This question was a text-based response. The responses protection have been classified according to whether fixed protection Fixed protection 69 responses 35% should be supported, managed or banned. should be managed

Fixed protection 17 responses 9% should be banned You are welcome to provide any general feedback or comments about the proposed voluntary moratorium

Total Responses 255 Commentary

Support moratorium 70 responses 51% This question was a text-based response. The responses Against moratorium 66 response 49% have been classified according to support for the proposed voluntary moratorium.