KHYBERKHYBERKHYBER KHYBERKHYBER the Unknown Paradise

© all photographs Matthieu Paley

NWFP Wildlife Department Government of NWFP

Looking down the Khyber Nala NA Forestry, Parks and Wildlife Department NA Administration DO YOU KNOW THE LONG DAY’S PATIENCE, BELLY-DOWN ON FROZEN DRIFT, WHILE THE HEAD OF HEADS IS FEEDING OUT OF RANGE? IS IT THERE THAT I AM GOING, WHERE THE “BOULDERS AND THE SNOW LIE, WITH A TRUSTY, NIMBLE TRACKER THAT I KNOW.

I HAVE SWORN AN OATH, TO KEEP IT ON THE HORNS OF OVIS POLI, AND THE RED GODS CALL ME OUT AND I MUST GO.

Rudyard Kipling p10 ”

all maps by Mareile Paley. Created with the help of WWF GIS-Lab, ESRI and ERDAS imagine all maps by Mareile Paley. KHYBER FACTS location , Upper , on (KKH) nearest town , Gojal public transport any transport on KKH going between Passu and Sost main settlements Khyber, Imamabad accommodation Khyber Village (the newly built Conservation and Development Center (CDC) has a small simple guesthouse and doubles as an information center) supplies bring all your trekking food from , Aliabad or Sost population 107 households, 1105 people indigenous language Wakhi, indigenous wildlife snow leopard, Himalayan ibex, red fox, wolf, Himalayan snow cock, rock partridge common plant species juniper, willow, poplar, wild roses, seabuckthorn

Khyber Village (looking south towards Passu) INTRODUCTION INTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTION

For most people traveling on the Karakoram Highway (KKH) between Passu and Sost, the green The community of Khyber is proud of its successful conservation efforts and eager to share the fields and low mud houses of Khyber pass by as yet another green oasis in between the desolate beauty of their natural world to interested ecotourists. As one villager put it: “We have found cliffs of rock and stone flanking the . Public transport only stops when flagged down that conservation is more beneficial than hunting and any visitor to Khyber can see the fruits of and tourists rarely find their way here. With the lure of Passu’s popular to the our efforts.” Lush grassy pasture above Khyber. south and the Chinese border to the north one might doubt to find equally exciting attractions in In addition, the community is hosting a functional and organized trophy hunting program, which that one little valley extending west from the KKH. Khyber encompasses a relatively small area, they hope will generate more funds for conservation efforts in the future. For more information but it has indeed a lot to offer, especially to those loving nature and an unspoiled environment. of the trophy hunting program, see pg. 9.

Once the two main nalas (small valleys) of Khyber, the Shauzherav and the Karilgoz Nala, were Apart from wildlife watchers, Khyber also invites researchers to study the native flora and famous for their abundance of native wildlife, especially the Himalayan ibex. Sport hunting during fauna and adventurers to explore some of the unique trekking possibilities, and Khyber’s

the late 19th century decimated the population of this graceful animal almost to zero and threat- uncharted caves. ened to imbalance Khyber’s natural eco-system. The people of Khyber were some of the first to accept and implement community conservation projects proposed in 1995 by the Mountain Areas Conservancy Project (MACP). The community had already imposed a complete ban on hunting in 1990 and today many indigenous animals, including ibex, foxes, golden eagles and snow leopards inhabit the area again.

Finding places of unspoilt nature has become a luxury. In Khyber you can still find rare species of flora, such as edelweiss, and enjoy watching wildlife in its natural habitat. 50p6234 HISTORY&CULTURE HISTORY&CULTUREHISTORY&CULTUREHISTORY&CULTUREHISTORY&CULTURE Beautiful woodcarv- HISTORY&CULTURE ings, once a common adornment to the The British explorer Col. Reginald Schomberg, who traveled through Gojal in the WHY THIS DOOR? wooden doors and 1930’s, mentions Khyber as “a place barred by a door with a lock and key”. It is relatively obvious that a door ‘with a lock and key’ served to pillars of almost every control who passes in and out. The opinions of who installed these house, can still be seen Indeed, Khyber’s famous ‘darwaza’ is probably the village’s most visible illustra- doors (there used to be two) are divided. Most people believe that it on some of Khyber’s tion of history. As a Wakhi settlement the village is younger than most of its Gojali was the who used the narrow, otherwise inaccessible older houses. gorge in which Khyber sits as an additional check-post for caravans neighbors. It is believed that the first settlers migrated about 300 years ago from coming from China. Another theory, however suggests, that another Ask your guide or a . The Mir of Hunza first ordered for a water channel to be built and then ruler, the Mir of Khutlugh, who once ruled a small kingdom between local if he or she can Gulmit and Khyber, installed the doors. It is said, the Mir of Khutlugh offered the fertile land to the people for development. show you such a could hold his territory for a mere five years, before he was toppled traditional house. by the Mir of Hunza. Proof of early travelers… DISCOVERING KHYBER Khyber’s ‘darwaza’ (door) once acted as a control check-point for all travelers coming from China. Khyber villagers present an old wooden Milking the On ’s high pastures, there is cer- beam. The carving, F. H. Taylor, dates Before heading off into the mountains, whether morning walk. The channel starts up-valley near goats and sheep tainly no day without it: Chalpindok is a local from the 19th century. it is to go trekking, to stalk one of Khyber’s the hydro-power station and skirts the hillside and making krut trophy-sized male ibexes or to simply spend a for several kilometers overlooking the whole of specialty and is usually served on any occa- are just a few of few days observing the natural flora and fauna, Khyber and the Karakoram Highway. sion, at any time of the day. the many chores visitors will certainly spend a day or two explor- Alternatively, or in combination, the famous the women have The recipe is simple and quick to prepare. A ing Khyber’s immediate surroundings. In the ‘darwaza’, which also lays south of the village, chapatti is covered with a sauce of boiled village itself, especially during times of festivals, in Shuwert. can be visited. The door itself is gone, but the krut (local cheese), and topped with a good there are many opportunities to experience Shearing of the old stone wall still stands, giving an indication of amount of hot, liquid butter. It is then cov- traditional Wakhi culture and local food. It is wool is a man’s the old route leading through this area before ered with another chapatti and the proce- always advisable to contact members of SKIDO job. the KKH was built. dure is repeated (chapatti, krut sauce, (Shahi Khyber Imamabad Development butter...) layer after layer. Organization), the community-based develop- Khyber’s original name was Jakemal. The name ment organization, as they can help you to see Khyber stems probably from a comparison You should certainly taste this delicious the things you are interested in. between the famous ‘undefeatable’ Khyber Fort Shimshali snack, but be aware: For the unac- from the tales of conqueror Hazarat Ali, and customed stomach Chalpindok is rather a A very good way to get an overview of the Jakemal’s location in a narrow gorge, surround- substantial, filling meal than a snack…! Khyber area and a chance to take some excel- ed by hazardous cliffs, making it in people’s lent photographs is the Khyber water channel. minds equally ‘unconquerable’. Following this flat and fairly easy to navigate 0p236 0p237 564 channel makes for a pleasant afternoon or early 564 ECOTOURISM ECOTOURISMECOTOURISMECOTOURISMECOTOURISM in Khyber

The term ecotourism has, in recent years, become a popular slogan used by tour operators all SHAHI KHYBER IMAMABAD DEVELOPMENT ORGANIZATION (SKIDO) GENERAL COMMUNITY BASED TROPHY HUNTING PROGRAM What to do? over the world. Yet, what exactly is ecotourism? In a nutshell, ecotourism could be defined as try to travel in small groups The Khyber community was one of the pioneers Unlike other trophy hunting programs, Khyber’s hire local guides and porters IN VILLAGES/ON HIGH PASTURES ecologically, environmentally and socially responsible tourism. The main aims of ecotourism are of community based trophy hunting programs in 100% hunting success makes the area support the local community by buying be considerate of the local culture to protect and preserve nature and to help provide the means to do so (financial and educational) . Started in 1995 with financial support especially interesting for the aged and disabled local products and handicrafts directly from wear appropriate clothing. Locals usually from the GEF/UNDP and implemented by IUCN, hunting community. On occasion, one may hunt the people. by directly supporting local communities. Other aspects, such as the sustainability of local culture love to see foreigners wearing shalwar kamiz the determination and unanimity of the people from the car window. A local guide in Khyber ask permission before taking photographs, and history also form part of this low-impact approach to tourism. of Khyber, quickly made the program a success. once rightly said: “Khyber remained a silent especially of women or religious places remote valley for years until converted to lush The local community, governed by a general if you want to give a gift or a donation, hand Looking at the negative impact mass-tourism can have on native culture and environment, eco- green pastures flourished with ibex through body, the Valley Conservation Committee (VCC), What not to do! it to a responsible, respected person, such as communal conservation efforts”. Experiencing tourism is a sensible alternative. Instead of traveling in large groups, consider taking the trip with has democratically established a self-sustain- a schoolteacher or community leader the unique local culture, including hunting IN VILLAGES/ON HIGH PASTURES able financial mechanism: a Valley conservation when offered local food be humble and only a few like-minded people. A simple consideration such as this can already result in a multi- celebration ceremonies and traditional food in do not wear shorts or tight fitting shirts endowment enables the community not only thankful. You can share some of your own the village, further adds to the exclusive hunting don’t hug or kiss in public tude of positive effects. In small villages, the communities can easily accommodate a small group to pay for recurrent conservation costs, but food in exchange experience in Khyber. Khyber is the perfect also provides opportunities for financing valley- and the need for building large hotels can be limited. A trip for a large group will most likely be destination to enjoy an incredible hunt and take based development needs, such as land WHILE TREKKING WHILE TREKKING home a quality trophy with unforgettable organized by an outside tour operator. By taking local guides and porters you will have a chance development, construction of a community don’t disturb wildlife by making unnecessary dispose properly of all your garbage. Burn memories. A lucky hunter may even get a conservation centre, school improvements, etc. noise paper, collect plastic, flatten tins and carry to get a genuine insight into the life of local people and you will directly contribute to their wel- chance of viewing the majestic snow leopard The ultimate goal of the program is to benefit don’t hunt or kill any animals or pull out any them out. Hiding garbage under a stone is not from mid-December to mid-January, the ideal fare. Activities, such as wildlife watching are much easier to conduct and have a much better the entire community especially marginalized plants an option! time for trophy hunting. groups, such as women and children. never leave any garbage (esp. candy wrap- leave your campsite in the state you found it success rate when traveling in a small group. pers, cigarette butts…) on the trail or at Communal conservation efforts have helped to use gas or kerosene for cooking. If you need campsites to use wood, leave a donation for the village Those are only a few examples of how ecotourism can be employed and directly benefit the area increase the ibex population from 43 (1995) to Contact in Khyber Village: don’t use wood for cooking. If you need to choose toilet sites at least 50m away from 577 animals (2003) with impressive trophy-sized you are visiting. More guidelines are given on the side bars. It is up to you alone to follow these Farman Baig (Chairman of the Shahi Khyber use wood, collect dry branches from the males. Since 1997, hunters, mostly foreigners, your camp and from any river or water source. Imamabad Development Organization) ground – never break fresh branches! Dig a toilet pit for larger groups. guidelines to minimize the impact of tourism. As an ecotourist you are not just a visitor; you can have been praising the impressive trophies and avoid toilet paper if possible. Use water the outstandingly high success rate of the hunt. play an active role in helping to conserve nature and to form a better understanding between A few American hunters, impressed by the GENERAL instead For more information, please refer to the don’t pass out any gifts, such as candy, be an example to your guides and porters by people of different cultures. hospitality and conservation efforts of the sources on page 12. pens or even money to children. Instead, give following and explaining these guidelines and Khyber community, have made handsome your donation to a responsible adult or school their reasons >> donations to further strengthen the program. 0p238 0p293 564 564 don’t carve or write your name on stones, trees, etc. TREKKING

Lake below Gouda Sojoo Pass TREKKING KHYBER TREKS (for more trekking routes or specialized treks, ask your local guide) TREKKINGTREKKINGTREKKING in Khyber Rates and Fees GENERAL TREKKING FACTS KARILGOZ KARILGOZ WILDLIFE TREK guides are always paid per day for every day 1 The main attraction of Karilgoz, Khyber’s 2 This loop-trek takes in the best places for they spend with you. This also includes rest 2 days summer pasture are some large unexplored 3 days observing wildlife in Khyber. Should you be days. A guide should have a license and his moderate caves. The pasture itself is only sporadically moderate here in winter, your chances to see some rare responsibilities include hiring and supervising used for grazing. Most of Khyber’s animals animals are even bigger of porters, route finding, organizing transport spend the summer in ’s Lupgar highlights trek through old juniper forests etc.. A guide usually only carries his own Valley. natural habitat of Himalayan ibex, snow equipment. highlights sunny meadow overlooking the valley leopard, snow cock, ram chakor, fox, eagle porters are paid per stage. A porter carries up explore the two large caves. So far and a variety of song birds to 25kg not including his own equipment. nobody knows the full extent of these bring or rent binoculars and/or spotting Porters are paid 1/2 stage for rest days. caves. Bring all your own equipment! scope wapasi (return) is paid to porters at half the 2 Connecting routes stage rate. Wapasi is paid when the trek ends For those interested in longer, more exten- in a different place and the porter returns to 5 - 7 hours moderate sive trekking options, there are a number of his point of origin unloaded. If the return is via routes connecting Khyber with other valleys public transport, the transport cost should be highlights of Gojal. For organized long-haul treks involv- paid, but no wapasi. ing a large group of trekkers, you might want to arrange for a change of porters once you FEES IN KHYBER (as of summer 2003) enter another valley. This will ensure that guides 1-3 clients: 600Rs/day, 4-6 clients: both areas will profit from the trek and avoid 900Rs/day, 7 or more: 1200Rs/day Trekking routes shown on this map are approximate only and should not be used for navigation. conflict. Some of these trekking options are: porters 280Rs/stage to Passu and Batura Glacier via Gouda donkey (for carrying loads) 280Rs/25kg/stage GOUDA SOJOO PASS Sojoo Pass (5150m) 3 This steep and high pass (5150m) rewards 4 - 5 days/demanding 3 days the effort with some of the best views in the to Passu via Shanoz Pass demanding entire Khyber area. 2 - 3 days/demanding highlights glacier crossing possibility to extend trek and cross to to Chapursan via Werthum Pass (5147m) Batura Glacier via the Werthum Nala 7 days/very demanding camp by deep blue spring water lakes to Khudabad (near Sost) via Gardan Pass ALWAYS DISCUSS FEES & STAGES 0p2103 0p2113 BEFORE LEAVING ON A TREK! 564 564 3 days/moderate

left to right: View on Batura Glacier, Below Gouda Sojoo Pass; On top of the pass; Karilgoz area; Shirin Maidan Glacier FOR MORE INFORMATION FORFORFORFOR MOREFOR MOREMORE MOREMORE INFORMATION INFORMATION INFORMATIONINFORMATION... INFORMATION There are a number of organizations, professionals and individuals whose help USEFUL WAKHI & BURUSHASKI WORDS AND PHRASES About MACP and expertise made this publication possible. We tried to give the most accurate The Mountain Areas Conservancy Project (MACP) is a Wakhi is the native language of ENGLISH WAKHI BURUSHASKI ENGLISH WAKHI BURUSHASKI seven-year project funded by GEF/UNDP. Its aims are and up-to-date information possible, but please always consider that prices go up most people in Khyber and is spoken How are you? chizole? be hal bila? ahead terperit yar the protection of biodiversity of the Karakoram, Hindu throughout Gojal. Burushaski is only Kush, and western Himalayan mountain ranges through and that ”The only constant thing in life is change”. Help us to make this change spoken by a few families. This language I’m fine. bidurte shua ba behind tertsabas iljiyakal community-based conservation efforts. as smooth and positive as possible by being a responsible ecotourist. section is by no means complete or in What’s your name? ti nunge chiz? gwik besan bila? in front perit yaryakal depth, but it might help to bridge the gap The project believes that the long-term conservation of My name is … zhu nunge … ja eik ...bila near qarib asir between you and the people whose natural resources is not possible without the active par- Where are you going? kumeret takhk? am nicho? home you are visiting. big/small lup/zaqlai uyum/jot ticipation of the local communities, who should take on Make an attempt to just learn a few basic the role of local custodians of their environment. MACP I need … marey … bokor ja... zarurat bila a little safkek pitwan words and your efforts will be highly helps organize, educate and empower these communi- FOR TREKKING INFORMATION, please contact: I am thirsty. weskim vitk je oüyaba good/bad baf/shak shuwa/gunekish regarded and appreciated. ties, creating an in-house capacity at the grass-roots Chairman I am hungry. merzim vitk je chamineba beautiful khushrui daltas level. The project interventions range from planning, Shahi Khyber Imamabad Development Organization (SKIDO) cold/hot suur/thin chagurum/garurum organizing, awareness raising activities to helping com- Post Office Khyber Village, Gojal Sit down. nezd/nezdid (pl.) kaoru munities accessing resources and sustainable use NAs, Pakistan Drink tea. choi pev chai mine day/night ror/naghd gun/thap demonstrations. In addition, MACP helps molding gov- Email: [email protected], [email protected] Eat food. shapik yao shapik shi today woodg kulto ernment policies for participatory conservation in order tomorrow piga jimale to help communities establish conservation endow- MACP-Project Management Unit MACP-Regional Office Gilgit Yes yan awa yesterday yezi sabur ments as sustainable financial mechanisms. These MACP/IUCN-Pakistan Alpine Complex, Main Gilgit Road No nei beya funds are managed by the communities themselves and H. 38, St. 86, Main Embassy Road Gilgit, Northern Areas, Pakistan Go! chow ni! bridge skord bash are based on profits made from ecotourism activities, G-6/3, Islamabad Phone: (+92 5811) 55808, 55809, 54589 cloud witish qurunsh such as limited trophy hunting, medicinal plants ex-situ How much/many? tsumr? be rum? Phone: (+92 51) 2270686-87 Fax: (+92 5811) 55799 fire rakhnigh pfu and in-situ conservation, wildlife watching safaris or NUMBERS What? chiz? besan? Fax: (+92 51) 2270688 Email: [email protected] flower spregh asqur trekking. This approach enables and motivates the com- When? tsogdar? beshal? Email: [email protected] www.macp-pk.org 1 yiu han 8 hath altambo house khun ha munities to provide better facilities to tourists, for maxi- Where? kumr? amulo? mum enjoyment. This novel approach has now been 2 bui alto 9 nao huncho mountain koh chish PUBLICATION Who? kui? men? replicated in most parts of the mountain valleys in 3 troi usko 10 thas torumo rain mor haralt Northern Areas. Why? chizer? bes? LAYOUT & DESIGN Mareile Paley / [email protected] 4 tsabur walto 11 thas yiu turmahan stone gar dan MACP operates in four designated areas in northern PHOTOGRAPHY Matthieu Paley / [email protected] 5 panz tsundo 12 thas bui turmaalto this/these yem ise/itse sun yir sa Pakistan, totaling a zone of 16,300 square kilometres. 6 shath mishindo 20 wist altar here/there drem/drar kole/ele trail/path videk gan Two of these areas (the Nanga Parbat and Gojal TEXT Mareile Paley 7 hub thalo 100 yisad tha right/left rost/chap doyum/gayum water yupk tsil Conservancies) are in Northern Areas and two (Tirichmir PRINTING Colorline Islamabad / [email protected] and Qashqar Conservancies) are located in NWFP. No part of this brochure may be reproduced in any form without prior permission by MACP, Pakistan. For more information on MACP, please refer to the © Photography: Matthieu Paley / www.paleyphoto.com sources on this page.