EXPEDITION DOSSIER 15TH NOV – 3RD DEC 2015

BIRDING DOWN UNDER

SUBANTARCTIC ISLANDS OF & AUSTRALIA PLUS THE © E Bell BIRDING DOWN UNDER

Listen to the names: Snares, Bounty, Antipodes, Auckland, Campbell, Macquarie and Chatham Islands. They are music to the ears of ‘Birders’. Apart from the Chathams, these islands are probably more isolated now than they were when they were discovered in the late 1700s and early 1800s and were regularly visited by sealers, whalers and government steamers searching for castaway sailors. It is relatively simple to get to the Chatham Islands but opportunities to visit the others are rare. This expedition, one of a number operated each year by Heritage Expeditions, is the only one to include all of these islands.

The islands occupy the tempestuous latitudes of the Roaring Forties and the Furious Fifties but they are also known as the Albatross Latitudes and with good reason. Ten of the world’s albatross species breed in the region; five of them nowhere else but here! In fact this zone where the air is never still, hosts the most diverse collection of in the world. More than 40 species breed down here – that is at least 11 percent of the entire world’s population.

With the exception of the Chathams, the islands are all designated UNESCO World Heritage sites and are afforded the highest and © K Ovsyanikova protection by the Australian and New Zealand governments, so passage to their shores is not granted lightly. There are also islands that we visit within the Chatham Archipelago with similar status and protection.

This expedition has huge appeal to pelagic enthusiasts, penguin fanatics and those interested in island endemics. You don’t have to be a keen birder though to enjoy this voyage. People interested in islands and island ecology, botany, geology and an increasing number of photographers have enjoyed this trip immensely, as have those interested in the history of southern ocean discovery and exploration.

This is one of our ‘signature expeditions’ which has operated annually for over 20 years, so you will benefit from the knowledge and expertise gained over that time. © K Ovsyanikova

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ITINERARY Day 3: The Snares – North East Island The closest Islands Day 1: Invercargill to New Zealand, they were Passengers should make their way appropriately called The Snares to the Kelvin Hotel in the central as they were once considered a city, where you will stay overnight hazard for sailing ships. Comprising complimentary. This evening there of two main islands and a group will be an informal get-together at of five islands called the Western the hotel for dinner; an excellent Chain; they are uninhabited and opportunity to meet fellow enjoy the highest protection as adventurers on your voyage and Nature Reserves. It is claimed by some of our expedition team. some that these islands are home to more nesting seabirds than all of the Day 2: Port of Bluff British Isles together. Take breakfast at your leisure in the hotel restaurant before transferring We plan to arrive early in the to the port to embark the Spirit morning and as landings are not of Enderby. You will have the permitted we will Zodiac cruise opportunity to settle into your cabin along the sheltered eastern side and familarise yourself with the ship; of the main island if the weather we will also take the opportunity and sea conditions are suitable. to conduct a number of safety In the sheltered bays, we should briefings. You are invited to join the see the endemic Snares Crested expedition team and captain on Penguin, Snares Island and © K Ovsyanikova the bridge as we set our course Fernbirds. Cape Pigeons, Antarctic to The Snares and our adventure Terns, White-fronted Terns and begins. Red-billed Gulls are also present in especially the herbaceous plants, good numbers. There are hundreds are recovering both in numbers and of thousands of Sooty Shearwaters diversity. nesting on The Snares; the actual number is much debated. The Our plan is to land at Sandy Bay, Buller’s Albatross breed here from one of three breeding areas early January onwards. in the for the Hooker’s or , Day 4: Auckland Islands a rare member of the seal family. – Beachmaster bulls gather on the beach defending their harems from The Auckland Islands group was younger (ambitious) males, to mate formed by two volcanoes which with the cows shortly after they erupted some 10-25 million years have given birth of a single pup. ago. They have subsequently been Hookers or New Zealand Sea Lion eroded and dissected by glaciation numbers are in a slow decline, for © K Ovsyanikova creating the archipelago as we reasons which are not obvious but know it today. most probably connected with a nearby squid fishery. Enderby Island is one of the most beautiful islands in this group and is During our day ashore there will named for the same distinguished be several options, some longer shipping family as our own vessel. walks, some shorter walks and time This northern most island in the to spend just sitting and enjoying archipelago is an outstanding the wildlife. The walking is relatively wildlife and birding location and is easy, a board walk traverses the relatively easy to land on and walk island to the dramatic western cliffs around. The island was cleared of all from there we follow the coast on introduced (pests) in 1994 © K Ovsyanikova the circumnavigation of the island. and both and the vegetation,

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and visit the Shy Mollymawk colony. Black-browed Albatross, Light- Above the colony we occasionally mantled Sooty Albatross, Salvin’s see Gibson’s Wandering Albatross Albatross, Grey-headed Albatross, breeding. This climb provides Northern and Southern Giant magnificent views in all directions, Petrel, and Little especially over the western entrance Shearwater. There should be plenty to Carnley Harbour, Adams Island of prions including Fairy, Fulmar and and Western Harbour. For those Antarctic, identifying them is not not able to make the climb (it is easy – but we should get some great reasonably difficult) there will be an views. opportunity to Zodiac cruise along © A Rheborg the coast of Adams Island and Other species to be on the lookout Western Harbour, with landings in the for include the Soft-plumaged Petrel, Birds that we are likely to encounter later. Mottled Petrel, White-headed Petrel, include the following species: Grey-faced Petrel, White-chinned , Northern Other options include the Tagua Petrel, Grey-backed Storm-Petrel, Giant Petrel, Shag, Bay coastwatchers hut and lookout Wilson’s Storm-Petrel and Black- Auckland Island Flightless Teal, (the former is derelict) which was bellied Storm-Petrel. Auckland Island Banded Dotterel, occupied during the Second World Auckland Island Tomtit, Bellbird, War. We could visit Epigwatt and the Days 7 to 8: Pipit, Red-crowned Parakeet, remains of the ‘Grafton’ which was The great Australian Antarctic Yellow-eyed Penguin and Light- wrecked here in 1864. All five men Explorer Sir Douglas Mawson once mantled Sooty Albatross. There is aboard survived and lived here for 18 called Macquarie Island “One of also a very good chance of seeing months before sailing their modified the wonder spots of the world.” the Subantarctic . Other dinghy to New Zealand to get help. You are about to discover why as more common species we will Two of the survivors wrote books we spend two days exploring this see include the Goldfinch, Song about their ordeal. Their first hand amazing Island. It was one of the first Thrush, Blackbird, European Starling, accounts tell us a lot about their time of the Subantarctic Islands to obtain Red-billed Gull and Redpoll. On here. Alternatively we may visit the World Heritage Status and that was Reef we will look for Erlagan clearing where a German migratory waders which could Merchant ship cut firewood to fire its include Bar-tailed , boilers after slipping its moorings in and possibly vagrants. Dunedin on the eve of the Second World War. Another potential site is Day 5: Auckland Islands Camp Cove where we can see the – Carnley Harbour remains of the castaway depots In the south of the archipelago established and maintained by the there is a very large sheltered New Zealand government between harbour it is rich in human history the 1860s and early 1900s. We depart including shipwrecks, treasure this afternoon for Macquarie Island. hunters, coastwatchers and of Day 6: At Sea course scientific parties. We plan © Heritage Expeditions to arrive early morning from our As we make our way south through anchorage at Enderby Island. We the Furious Fifties also known as enter the harbour through the the Albatross latitudes, the birding eastern entrance which is guarded especially south of the Auckland on both sides by dramatic cliffs and Islands should be good. We will rugged tussock covered hills. have a series of informal lectures on the biology and history of the Our activities here today are totally Subantarctic Islands. We will also weather dependent. We have a prepare you for our visit to Macquarie number of options. If the weather is Island. OK there will be an opportunity for the more energetic expeditioners Species that we may see include the to climb to the South West Cape Wandering Albatross, Royal Albatross, © L McKenzie

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largely due to its unique geology. land at two sites (subject of course It is one of the few places on earth to weather and sea conditions) where mid-ocean crustal rocks and you will get a chance to see, are exposed at the surface due to observe and photograph all four the collision of the Australian and species, although the Rockhopper Pacific Plates. is much harder to capture than the others. The island was discovered in 1810 and was soon ravaged by sealers Macquarie also has a large who introduced various animals population of Southern Elephant including rats, mice, cats and Seals. Pups are born in October and rabbits. The native population weaned in November when the © T Bickford was virtually eliminated and plants breeding adults return to sea. The as a pastoral lease. The lease was destroyed. The Tasmanian National weaners and sub adults lie around taken up by an entrepreneurial Parks and Wildlife Service which on the beaches. The weaners go to New Zealand sheep farmer who administered the island recently sea sometime in January, running stocked the island with sheep embarked on a very ambitious the gauntlet of Orcas or Killer and cattle. The farming practices, eradication program which appears Whales who are waiting offshore. which included burning the scrub, to have been successful. The island modified the island considerably. is now predator free and both the We plan a landing at the Australian The farming lasted until 1934 when birds and plants are responding. It is Antarctic Research Base at Buckles it was abandoned. Coastwatchers amazing to witness the regeneration Bay where you will be able to were stationed on the island during and the increase in the number of meet with scientists and base staff. the war, at the end of the war birds. The original base was established the station was taken over by the in 1947 and the island has been New Zealand Metrological service Macquarie Island is home to four ‘manned’ since then. It is one of and they maintained a manned species of penguin, Kings, Royals, the longest continuously occupied weather/research station on the Gentoo and Rockhopper. The Royal bases in the Subantarctic. island until 1995. Penguin occurs nowhere else in the world. During our visit we will We depart for Campbell Island on In the early 1970s the island was the afternoon of the second day. fenced in half and stock was removed off the northern half. The Day 9: At Sea impacts of the remaining animals Today is very similar to Day 6 except were monitored and they were we are north bound and hopefully all eventually removed in 1990. running with the prevailing weather The vegetation recovered quickly which should make it a bit more and the cats died out naturally. comfortable. There will be lectures, In a very ambitious (and never opportunities for pelagic birding before attempted on such a large and/or simply relaxing. scale) eradication programme the New Zealand Department of Days 10: Campbell Island – © Heritage Expeditions Conservation successfully removed Perseverance Harbour the rats. With the island declared Today we explore Campbell Island, predator free, the way was clear New Zealand’s southernmost to reintroduce the endangered Subantarctic territory. Its history is as Campbell Island Flightless Teal rich and varied as the other islands which had been rediscovered on we have visited. Discovered in 1810 an offshore island in 1975. Snipe, (by the same sealing captain who which were formerly unknown from discovered Macquarie Island) it too the island but were discovered was soon occupied by sealers who on another offshore island, introduced rats and cats. recolonised the islands themselves. The vegetation which the great In 1895 the New Zealand English botanist, Sir Joseph Hooker © T Bickford government advertised the island described in 1841 as having a “Flora

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display second to none outside the Other birds we should see include tropics” is flourishing and is nothing Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, short of spectacular. Northern Giant Petrel, Southern Skua, Red-billed Gull, Black-backed We will offer a number of options Gull, Antarctic Tern, Redpoll, which will enable you to explore Dunnock and New Zealand Pipit. the island. There will be extended walks to Northwest Bay and possibly Day 11: At Sea Mt Honey. There will also be an At sea en route to the Antipodes, easier walk to the Col Lyall Saddle. it is a day for pelagic birding. All of these options will allow you Species commonly seen in this © M Kelly the opportunity and time to enjoy area include Wandering Albatross the Southern Royal Albatross which species, Southern Royal Albatross, the Antipodes Parakeet, the largest nest here in large numbers. We Black-browed Albatross, Campbell of New Zealand’s parakeets. This also visit areas of the island which Island Albatross, Light-mantled species has an entirely green head. contain outstanding examples of Sooty Albatross, Salvin’s Albatross, We will also look for the Reischek’s the for which the island Grey-headed Albatross, Northern Parakeet, a strong subspecies of is renown. and Southern Giant Petrel, the the Red-crowned Parakeet found Sooty Shearwater and the Little in the Auckland Islands and on the Other birds which we will search for Shearwater. This region of the Chatham Islands. We also see the include the teal and snipe, although Southern Ocean is one of the Antipodes subspecies of the New the later is what we would refer to few places where the Fairy Prion, Zealand Pipit. Good views of both as a ‘luck’ bird. The endemic shag Fulmar Prion and Antarctic Prion Erect-crested and Rockhopper can be seen on the harbour, but occur together, providing a good Penguins can be expected along unfortunately the nesting colonies opportunity for comparison. Other the coast where they often breed in of Rockhopper Penguins, Grey- species to be on the lookout for mixed colonies. Antarctic Terns and head, Black-browed and Campbell include the Soft-plumaged Petrel, Kelp Gulls are often seen in good Island Albatross are outside of the Mottled Petrel, White-headed Petrel, numbers. permitted areas and we will have to Grey-faced Petrel, White-chinned look for these species at sea. Petrel, Grey-backed Storm-Petrel, Day 13: Bounty Islands Wilson’s Storm-Petrel, Black-bellied Storm-Petrel and the Common We arrive at the incongruously Diving-Petrel. named Bounty Islands, the remote northernmost of the five New Day 12: Zealand Subantarctic groups; they were discovered by Captain Bligh The Antipodes group of islands is just months before the infamous the most isolated and perhaps mutiny. Here inhospitable granite the least known of New Zealand’s knobs, tips of the submerged Bounty Subantarctic Islands. Sealers lived Platform, are lashed by the Southern here in the decades immediately Ocean. They are home to thousands after their discovery in 1806. There of Salvin’s Albatross, Erect-crested are two historic and one recent Penguins, Fulmar Prions and the shipwrecks recorded. Mice are endemic Bounty Island Shag – the the only introduced on the world’s rarest. We plan to arrive in islands but efforts to eradicate the early morning and if sea and them will hopefully see that their weather conditions are suitable we days are numbered. The islands are will cruise by Zodiac around the of volcanic origin, but are heavily granite outposts to take a closer eroded especially the western look at the birds which breed there. shoreline. The largest of the group New Zealand Fur Seals which were is Antipodes Island. Landings are almost hunted to extinction in the not permitted, so if the weather is Subantarctic Islands are present in suitable, we plan to cruise, along large numbers. the coastline by Zodiac where we © A Rheborg have a good chance of seeing

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After the cruise we depart for area. Endemic to the Chatham the Chatham Islands. There are Islands, the Chatham Island Taiko – opportunities to see a good also known as the Magenta Petrel selection of birdlife as we sail. – is among New Zealand’s most These should include Wandering endangered species. It is one of Albatross, , the world’s rarest seabirds with a Mottled Petrel, Soft-plumaged population estimated to number Petrel, Broad-billed Prion, White- less than 150. chinned Petrel and Black-bellied Storm-Petrel as well as Wilson’s Late this afternoon we will cruise Storm-Petrel. Other possible sightings around spectacular Pyramid Rock, include White-capped Albatross, a basalt outcrop south of Pitt Island. © T Bickford Northern Giant Petrel, Cape Petrel, This is the only breeding place of the Antarctic Fulmar, Sooty Shearwater, Chatham Island Albatross. Landings With a new generation has come a Little Shearwater and Grey-backed are not possible (nor practical – a new awareness and a willingness to Storm-Petrel. We will also start to fact you will appreciate when you be part of a concerted conservation keep a lookout for the Chatham see it) but great views of nesting effort. A number of private reserves Island Petrel. birds can be had from the ship. have been established, a lot of There will also be hundreds of birds replanting has taken place and Day 14: At Sea and Pyramid Rock following the ship. predators are being controlled. As we continue toward the Today we will visit one of the original Chatham Archipelago, there are This evening we cruise towards our private reserves established by a excellent opportunities for pelagic anchorage near Waitangi. local family on the south coast of birding today. In particular, we will the main island where there is a very look out for the Chatham Island Day 15: Chatham Islands – Waitangi good chance to see the endemic Petrel which has been seen on this The Chatham Archipelago consists Chatham Island Pigeon and Warbler. leg of the voyage before. In the of one large island and numerous The pigeon was close to extinction past we have observed the very smaller islands and rocky islets. Only until recently, and is now in good rare Chatham Island Taiko in this two of the islands are inhabited. numbers. We will travel by local bus They represent New Zealand’s to the reserve. The road takes us eastern most territory. The islands through developed farmland where were originally settled by East we will undoubtedly see numerous (either directly or via introduced species and possibly the New Zealand as the evidence . Near our landing in Waitangi supports some contact there). there is a good chance of seeing In the 1400s the population the endemic Chatham Island Shag. became isolated and interestingly developed its own distinct culture. This afternoon we cruise back The islands were discovered by along the south coast, this is where Europeans in the 1790s. Sealers and the only known population of the settlers followed and then in the Taiko breeds and also where they 1830s Maoris from New Zealand are attempting to establish a new invaded killing and enslaving population of the Chatham Island many of the indigenous people. Petrel in a predator free area. We The impact of the original settlers, have seen both Taiko and Chatham the European and later the Maori Island Petrel in this area on previous people on the native flora and expeditions. fauna was disastrous. Introduced animals, hunting, fires and land Day 16: South East Island and clearing wiped out many species Mangere Islands of endemic birds. Fortunately a number survived on the offshore Early this morning we arrive at South islands in the archipelago. East Island. This has to be one of the world’s greatest nature reserves © A Russ

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and landings are not permitted. the Northern Giant Petrel, Cape However we should obtain good Petrel, Westland Black Petrel, White- DATES views of the very rare New Zealand chinned Petrel, Great-winged Petrel, Shore Plover and Chatham Island Grey-backed Storm-Petrel, White- Voyage #1561 Oystercatcher from the Zodiacs faced Storm-Petrel, the Diving-Petrel 15th November to as we cruise along the coast. We and Cook’s Petrel. 3rd December 2015 should also see the Pitt Island Shag which nests on the island. Additional birdlife will include PRICES species of shearwater seabirds. Heritage Suite $15,750 pp This afternoon we will cruise past These tubenose birds fly with stiff Has a large lounge area, a separate Mangere and Little Mangere Islands wings and use a ‘shearing’ flight bedroom with double bed, a single bed in the lounge and private bathroom. Large before departing for Dunedin, these technique to move across wave forward and side facing windows. islands are situated to the west of fronts with the minimum of active Pitt Island. Mangere is known as one flight. Photographic opportunities Mini Suite $14,700 pp of only two sites in the world where can include Flesh-footed Has a separate bedroom with a double bed and a single bed or a sofa in the are found. We will Shearwater, Buller’s Shearwater, lounge and private bathroom. Large side hear the story of how this endemic Sooty Shearwater and Little facing windows. species was rescued from the brink Shearwater. Small petrels on the of extinction in the 1970s when the horizon and close by include Fairy Superior Plus $14,000 pp total population consisted of just six Prion and Broad-billed Prion. There Has two lower berths and private bathroom. These cabins have windows. birds. could well be other species, so it is a good time to be out on deck. Superior $13,000 pp Days 17 to 18: At Sea Has one bunk (one upper and one lower Day 19: Dunedin berth), and private bathroom. These cabins En route to Dunedin we will cross have windows. the Chatham Rise, a large, relatively We arrive early morning in the shallowly submerged part of the historic Otago Inner Harbour. Main Deck $11,500 pp Zealandia continent that stretches After a breakfast and completing Has two lower berths and washbasin. The nearby showers and toilets are shared east from near the of formalities with Customs and with other Main Deck cabins. These cabins New Zealand. Nutrient-rich waters Agriculture we disembark and have a porthole. from the south mix with warm you will board our complimentary northern waters and there is an transfer to a central city drop off or Main Deck Triple $10,500 pp overlap between northern pelagic Dunedin airport. Has one bunk (one upper and one lower berth), one lower berth and washbasin. The species and birds from southern nearby toilets are shared with other Main latitudes, so we can expect great To allow time for disembarkation Deck cabins. This cabin has a porthole. pelagic sightings. procedures we do not recommend booking flights from Dunedin before ADDITIONAL CHARGES Species we expect to encounter midday. Landing Fees $800 pp include Wandering Albatross, Royal (All prices are per person in USD) Albatross, Black-browed Albatross, Note: During our voyage, White-capped Albatross and circumstances may make it PRICE INCLUDES Salvin’s Albatross. Petrel species necessary or desirable to deviate Pre/Post cruise transfers, one we should be able to identify are from the proposed itinerary. This night hotel accommodation in can include poor weather and a twin share room (inc. dinner/ opportunities for making unplanned breakfast), all on board ship excursions. Your Expedition Leader accommodation with meals and will keep you fully informed. all expedition shore excursions. Landings at the Subantarctic Islands of New Zealand are by permit only as administered by the Government PRICE EXCLUDES of New Zealand. No landings are All items of a personal nature, permitted at The Snares, Antipodes laundry, drinks, gratuities. or Bounties. International/domestic flights,

1561230614 visas and travel insurance.

© Heritage Expeditions

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FORGOTTEN ISLANDS OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC

SUBANTARCTIC ISLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND © K Ovsyanikova FORGOTTEN ISLANDS OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC

You won’t find them mentioned in a travel brochure on your high street; you won’t find them in most guidebooks, you probably don’t know anyone that has ever been there and they don’t even appear on some maps of the South Pacific – these are the ‘forgotten islands’. Despite their low profile, they are among the most remarkable wildlife reserves in the Southern Ocean, designated UNESCO World Heritage sites and afforded the highest protection of any nature reserves in New Zealand. Remote, uninhabited and on no regular shipping route, access is further restricted by a strict Management Plan which limits the number of people allowed ashore each year.

Departing the Port of Bluff (Invercargill) the first of these islands we visit are The Snares. No landings are permitted because the islands are honey-combed with seabird burrows. Of particular interest are the Snares Crested Penguin, a Fernbird and Tomtit all of which are endemic. We should see them all as we enjoy the dramatic coastline and tree daisy forest from our Zodiac cruise.

In the Auckland Islands, the largest of the island groups, we will have the chance to spend the day © A Breniere ashore on Enderby Island, arguably the most amazing Subantarctic Island. Here you can hike through the windswept Rata forests, and along the exposed coastal cliffs. The wildlife is never far away and its lack of fear means close encounters, great for photography and observations. In Carnley Harbour in the south of the Auckland Islands there are a number of fascinating sites, including a Shy Albatross colony, abandoned Coastwatcher’s huts, a shipwreck and castaway depots that we can visit. The weather will dictate what we do. © Heritage Expeditions Campbell Island, the southernmost island of this expedition, is an Island in the 1840s and described endemic Campbell Island Flightless example of what can be achieved the flowering fields of ‘megaherbs’ Teal and Snipe. in restoring Islands. In recent years to be “second to none outside of sheep, cattle, cats and rats have all the tropics”. We can say the same These islands represent a priceless been eliminated and the island is now, because of the removal of ecosystem. Joining this expedition rapidly recovering. The great English these introduced animals. This island redefines natural history travel and botanist Sir Joseph Hooker, a friend is also the home of the majestic will leave you wishing you could of Charles Darwin, visited Campbell Southern Royal Albatross, the have spent more time there.

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ITINERARY We will also be able to see Stewart © S Blanc Island. Despite appearing quite small Day 1: Invercargill on most maps it is really quite large Make your way to the Kelvin Hotel, and has a 700 kilometre coastline. from where we will transfer you to Seabirds that we may encounter at the Port of Bluff. (Reporting times and this early point in the voyage include: the departure time of the transfer albatross, petrels, cormorants, gulls will be confirmed with your voyage and Little Blue Penguins. documents). The township of Bluff is situated on the north-eastern side Day 2: The Snares – North East Island of Bluff Hill, an extinct volcanic cone The closest Subantarctic Islands which forms a knoll at the southern to New Zealand, they were end of the Bluff Peninsula which appropriately called The Snares as named for the same distinguished extends into Foveaux Strait. they were once considered a hazard shipping family as our own vessel. for sailing ships. Comprising of two This northern most island in the The captain and expedition team will main islands and a group of five archipelago is an outstanding be waiting for your arrival at the ship islands called the Western Chain; wildlife and birding location and is to greet you and show you to your they are uninhabited and enjoy relatively easy to land on and walk cabin. You will have the opportunity the highest protection as Nature around. The island was cleared of all to familiarise yourself on board and Reserves. It is claimed by some that introduced animals (pests) in 1994 there will be formal introductions to these islands are home to more and both birds and the vegetation, the team followed by safety briefings. nesting seabirds than all of the British especially the herbaceous plants, Isles together. Join the captain on the bridge or are recovering both in numbers and diversity. fellow travellers on deck as we set We plan to arrive early in the sail for The Snares Islands. We will morning and as landings are not Our plan is to land at Sandy Bay, sail past Ruapuke Island, formerly a permitted we will Zodiac cruise one of three breeding areas local Maori stronghold supporting along the sheltered eastern side in the Auckland Islands for the a population of over 200 people. of the main island if the weather Hooker’s or New Zealand Sea Lion, and sea conditions are suitable. a rare member of the seal family. In the sheltered bays, we should Beachmaster bulls gather on the see the endemic Snares Crested beach defending their harems from Penguin, Snares Island Tomtit and younger (ambitious) males, to mate Fernbirds. Cape Pigeons, Antarctic with the cows shortly after they have Terns, White-fronted Terns and given birth to a single pup. Hookers Red-billed Gulls are also present in or New Zealand Sea Lion numbers good numbers. There are hundreds are in a slow decline, for reasons of thousands of Sooty Shearwaters which are not obvious but most nesting on The Snares; the actual probably connected with a nearby number is much debated. The squid fishery. Buller’s Albatross breed here from © Heritage Expeditions early January onwards. During our day ashore there will be several options, some longer walks, Day 3: Auckland Islands some shorter walks and time to – Enderby Island spend just sitting and enjoying the The Auckland Islands group was wildlife. The walking is relatively easy. formed by two volcanoes which A board walk traverses the island erupted some 10-25 million years to the dramatic western cliffs from ago. They have subsequently been there we follow the coast on the eroded and dissected by glaciation circumnavigation of the island. creating the archipelago as we know it today. Birds that we are likely to encounter include the following species: Enderby Island is one of the most © Heritage Expeditions Southern Royal Albatross, Northern beautiful islands in this group and is

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Giant Petrel, Auckland Island Shag, breeding. This climb provides Auckland Island Flightless Teal, magnificent views in all directions, Auckland Island Banded Dotterel, especially over the western Auckland Island Tomtit, Bellbird, entrance to Carnley Harbour, Pipit, Red-crowned Parakeet, Adams Island and Western Harbour. Yellow-eyed Penguin and Light- For those not able to make the mantled Sooty Albatross. There is climb (it is reasonably difficult) there also a very good chance of seeing will be an opportunity to Zodiac the Subantarctic Snipe. Other cruise along the coast of Adams more common species we will Island and Western Harbour, with see include the Goldfinch, Song landings in the later. Thrush, Blackbird, European Starling, © K Ovsyanikova Red-billed Gull and Redpoll. On Other options include the Tagua Derry Castle Reef we will look for Bay coastwatchers hut and lookout migratory waders which could (the former is derelict) which was include Bar-tailed Godwit, Turnstone occupied during the Second World and possibly vagrants. War. We could visit Epigwatt and the remains of the ‘Grafton’ which was Day 4: Auckland Islands wrecked here in 1864. All five men – Carnley Harbour aboard survived and lived here In the south of the archipelago for 18 months before sailing their there is a very large sheltered modified dinghy to New Zealand harbour, rich in human history to get help. Two of the survivors including shipwrecks, treasure wrote books about their ordeal. © N Russ hunters, coastwatchers and of Their firsthand accounts tell us a lot course scientific parties. We plan about their time here. Alternatively stocked the island with sheep and to arrive early morning from our we may visit the Erlagan clearing cattle. The farming practices, which anchorage at Enderby Island. We where a German Merchant ship included burning the scrub, modified enter the harbour through the cut firewood to fire its boilers after the island considerably. The farming eastern entrance which is guarded slipping its moorings in Dunedin on lasted until 1934 when it was on both sides by dramatic cliffs and the eve of the Second World War. abandoned. Coastwatchers were rugged tussock covered hills. Another potential site is Camp Cove where we can see the remains of stationed on the island during the war and at the end of the war the Our activities here today are totally the castaway depots established station was taken over by the New weather dependent. We have a and maintained by the New Zealand Metrological service. They number of options. If the weather is Zealand government between the maintained a manned weather/ OK there will be an opportunity for 1860s and early 1900s. We depart research station there until 1995. the more energetic expeditioners Carnley Harbour for Campbell to climb to the South West Cape Island this afternoon. In the early 1970s the island was and visit the Shy Mollymawk colony. fenced in half and stock was Above the colony we occasionally Days 5 to 6: Campbell Island removed off the northern half. The see Gibson’s Wandering Albatross We have two days to explore impacts of the remaining animals Campbell Island, New Zealand’s were monitored and they were southernmost Subantarctic territory. all eventually removed in 1990. Its history is as rich and varied The vegetation recovered quickly as the other islands we have and the cats died out naturally. visited. Discovered in 1810, it was In a very ambitious (and never soon occupied by sealers who before attempted on such a large introduced rats and cats. scale) eradication programme the New Zealand Department of In 1895 the New Zealand Conservation successfully removed government advertised the island the rats. With the island declared as a pastoral lease. The lease was predator free, the way was clear taken up by an entrepreneurial to reintroduce the endangered © N Russ New Zealand sheep farmer who Campbell Island Flightless Teal

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which had been rediscovered on Skua, Red-billed Gull, Black-backed an offshore island in 1975. Snipe, Gull, Antarctic Tern, Redpoll, DATES which were formerly unknown from Dunnock and New Zealand Pipit. the island but were discovered Voyage #1565 on another offshore island, Day 7: At Sea 15th to 22nd December 2015 recolonised the islands themselves. We are at sea en route to the Port The vegetation which the great of Bluff. We will take the opportunity PRICES English botanist, Sir Joseph Hooker to recap the many experiences Heritage Suite $6,600 pp described in 1841 as having a “Flora we have had on this expedition. Has a large lounge area, a separate display second to none outside the bedroom with double bed, a single bed in This is also a good opportunity to the lounge and private bathroom. Large tropics” is flourishing and is nothing download and edit any remaining forward and side facing windows. short of spectacular. photos while they are fresh in your mind and you have the experience Mini Suite $6,400 pp We will offer a number of options Has a separate bedroom with a double of our expedition team on board for bed and a single bed or a sofa in the which will enable you to explore questions. There will also be some lounge and private bathroom. Large side the island. There will be extended good pelagic birding opportunities. facing windows. walks to Northwest Bay and possibly Mt Honey. There will also be an Tonight we enjoy a farewell and Superior Plus $6,050 pp Has two lower berths and private easier walk to the Col Lyall Saddle. celebratory dinner with new found bathroom. These cabins have windows. All of these options will allow you friends with time to reflect on a the opportunity and time to enjoy wealth of new experiences. Superior $5,500 pp the Southern Royal Albatross which Has one bunk (one upper and one lower nest here in large numbers. We berth), and private bathroom. These cabins Day 8: Invercargill have windows. also visit areas of the island which We arrive at the Port of Bluff early contain outstanding examples of in the morning. After breakfast, Main Deck $5,000 pp the megaherbs for which the island Customs formalities and a Has two lower berths and washbasin. The is renown. nearby showers and toilets are shared last minute opportunity to bid with other Main Deck cabins. These cabins farewell to your expedition team have a porthole. Other birds we will search for you disembark and board our include the teal and snipe, although complimentary coach transfer to Main Deck Triple $4,300 pp the later is what we would refer to Has one bunk (one upper and one lower downtown Invercargill or the local berth), one lower berth and washbasin. The as a ‘luck’ bird. The endemic shag airport. Our adventure ends but nearby toilets are shared with other Main can be seen on the harbour, but Deck cabins. This cabin has a porthole. memories will last long beyond this. unfortunately the nesting colonies of Rockhopper Penguins, Grey ADDITIONAL CHARGES In case of unexpected delays due Head, Black-browed and Campbell to weather and/or port operations Landing Fees $400 pp Island Albatross are outside of the we ask you not to book any onward Kayaking Supplement $550 pp permitted areas and we will have to travel from Invercargill until after (All prices are per person in USD) look for these species at sea. midday today. PRICE INCLUDES Other birds we should see include Note: During our voyage, Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Pre/Post cruise transfers, all on circumstances may make it Northern Giant Petrel, Southern board ship accommodation with necessary or desirable to deviate meals and all expedition shore from the proposed itinerary. This excursions. can include poor weather and opportunities for making unplanned PRICE EXCLUDES excursions. Your Expedition Leader will keep you fully informed. All items of a personal nature, Landings at the Subantarctic Islands laundry, drinks, gratuities. of New Zealand are by permit only International/domestic flights, as administered by the Government visas and travel insurance. of New Zealand. No landings are permitted at The Snares. 1565230614

© Heritage Expeditions

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SUBANTARCTIC SEA KAYAKING

Kayaking in the Subantarctic islands of NZ and Australia is guaranteed to be an expedition and adventure of discovery. It is remote with unpredictable weather and inspiring landscapes. The island groups have UNESCO World Heritage status with rich biodiversity and abundant wildlife. Our ship acts as a floating base camp for kayak excursions and shore landings. Our excursions are selected for their natural history, wildlife and scenic value. Cruising in our own private group of about 6 to 10 paddlers, we will generally visit the same sites as the Zodiacs but be more independent and perhaps access areas not appropriate for Zodiacs. If the ship’s schedule allows, it may be possible to do an extended day trip, taking our lunch with us. The coastline offers a maze of sea kayaking opportunities: from sandy bays to rugged Basalt cliffs against a backdrop of extraordinary floral displays. The coast provides perfect sanctuaries for nesting seabirds, fish and marine mammals. Each day brings new challenges and wondrous experiences to our small band of kayakers.

Sea kayaking in the Subantarctic QUESTIONS MOST that the weather will influence islands requires an adventurous OFTEN ASKED greatly what we can and cannot do. attitude as the weather and ocean You need to be proficient putting a currents play an important role. spray skirt on yourself. Try to rent a How experienced do you have To make the most of your trip, it is kayak locally before leaving home if to be? essential that you TAKE THE TIME TO you feel you need some additional PREPARE FOR IT. You should be an intermediate experience or seek out a local paddler, active in the outdoors operator for some paddling tuition. If you intend to participate in the and have an adventurous spirit. We could be paddling in winds, fog sea kayaking option on this voyage, THIS SHOULD NOT BE YOUR FIRST or a small amount of current and please complete and return SEA KAYAK EXPERIENCE AND YOU will not have any opportunity to the Sea Kayaking Booking Form SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET IN AND OUT instruct before our first paddle. We appended to this document as OF YOUR KAYAK WITH ASSISTANCE. often begin our first paddling session soon as possible. This is necessary to You do not have to be an expert. from the shore and after that will be confirm your participation in the sea However, you should have launching directly from the ship. You kayaking option and ensure that practiced a wet exit and assisted re- should be comfortable paddling on you are medically fit to participate. entry before the trip. This can easily seas that could have up to a one Note that spots are limited and that be practiced in waist deep water at metre swell with variable surface your experience will be checked. home, with a friend’s help or under conditions, so do practice in a tuition. You should also recognise variety of conditions.

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Even if your experience is limited, Is there a minimum age? we’d encourage you to call us to Kayakers should generally be aged discuss your suitability. There is often 16 or over at the time of the trip. ample time to gain the required We may consider children aged experience before you depart. We 14-15 in exceptional circumstances may be able to recommend a depending on their size and reputable sea kayak operator in your kayaking experience. This is entirely area for some tuition prior to the trip. at the discretion of Heritage Your guide will assess your ability on Expeditions. the initial paddle and, if you have insufficient experience, he or she Will there be a guide? may not allow you to participate in Yes, there will be an experienced rougher conditions. Can the kayaks sink? kayak guide on the ship who No, the kayaks have separate accompanies all the kayak How fit do you need to be? compartments with bulkheads, so excursions. In addition there will be they can float with the cockpit full of You should be fit enough to paddle a Zodiac inflatable rubber boat in water. for up to three hours, able to climb radio contact nearby. up and down a two metre vertical How do we get into the kayaks from ladder between a tethered zodiac What kind of kayaks do we use? and the deck of the ship. You should the ship? We generally use plastic double be doing some regular exercise as Down a short ladder off the back of and single kayaks. These are hard the fitter you are the more you will the ship to a Zodiac tied alongside, shelled, well suited for day trips and enjoy the experience. The more then into the kayak. Alternatively, launching quickly from the ship. The paddles you can do before the trip, if it is rough or too windy, we take guide will paddle a single kayak. the better. the kayaks to shore by Zodiac and The use of singles will be at the enter from there. You should be guide’s discretion and influenced by How far will we paddle? agile enough to climb a two metre the group numbers and individual rope ladder with assistance. We It depends on the weather and ice abilities. conditions, but outings can range recommend you practice before the trip getting into a kayak from a from 5 to 15 km. On average, we How stable are they? aim to paddle about 8 km per session pier, wharf, or deep shoreline where The kayaks are quite stable and and at most, we could end up 8 to you can’t step into the boat from for our first paddle we try and start 10 km from the ship. We would only standing on the bottom. Your guide in shallow water along the shore paddle further if the ship is moving will stabilise the kayak while you get where you can gain a feel for them. to meet us. We will not be aiming in and out. If conditions are calm we may start to paddle big distances, but will from the ship in deep water. We will seek out the most interesting things Will there be surf and swell? always paddle back to the ship in to view. We carry radios and are in We may have surf conditions in these deep water unless conditions are constant contact with the ship. islands but will not be landing in too rough. any rough conditions. We could be How long will we paddle for? paddling in some disturbed water, Can they tip over? The paddling time will vary, swell, wind chop or currents. We can Yes – it is possible but unlikely. In depending on how long the ship paddle in up to 15-20 knot winds but the event of a capsize you would spends at each spot and how if the winds are too strong and we self-rescue by righting the kayak, much the group wants to paddle. can’t find sheltered paddling, we will pumping it out, and re-entering it Generally, the excursions will be 2 to join the shore party in the Zodiacs. with the guide’s help, or maybe 4 hours, but we may be out for up to using a Zodiac for support. It only 6 hours. The trips vary in length and Can I carry anything in the kayak? takes a few minutes to pump out we will paddle at every opportunity. Yes, you will be supplied with a 20 litre enough water for the paddler We may go out twice in one day dry-bag for extra clothing, binoculars to re-enter. With dry-suits and as the long daylight allows some and anything you want to keep appropriate clothing underneath beautiful evening paddles. If we are waterproof. You should also carry we are comfortable in cold water out for more than two hours we will a water bottle. You are welcome to for up to half an hour. endeavour to get out on shore and bring along your own 5-10 litre dry stretch our legs. bag for personal things.

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Can I bring my camera? How big is the group? both lists carefully and if you have Yes, but we highly recommend a We limit the group size to a any questions please contact us. waterproof or disposable camera, maximum of ten kayakers plus your Of course, you also need to be or waterproof housing for use in the guide. prepared for shore excursions by kayak. Onshore you are welcome Zodiac. to use an SLR camera but will need What if it gets too windy while we’re to provide a waterproof case or paddling or if I get tired? The air temperatures in summer months can range from 2°C to 16°C. bag for it. Pelican cases are highly We will be in radio contact with the We generally paddle in sheltered recommended for good cameras, ship and Zodiacs. If the weather areas, but it is best to be prepared but a small dry-bag with a t-shirt appears to be changing we will for deteriorating conditions at any wrapped around the camera may head back to the ship or to shore time. Wind chill while paddling can suffice for smaller cameras. The if need be. The ship’s captain, be cool. The water temperatures kayak hatches are not large and expedition leader and kayak guide can range from 2°C to +9°C. Please will not take a Pelican case larger will all maintain close contact to read these suggestions carefully. than the 1400 model. A 1300 model ensure a safe paddling experience. is better suited if your camera and If someone needs to return to the Kayaking All kayaking equipment lens combination fit. ship a Zodiac can be called. will be provided: paddles, life jackets, kayaks, dry suits, safety Do we need any special clothing What about paddling through ice? and equipment? gear and pogies (insulated mitts We are unlikely to encounter ice on that attach to your paddle and The water temperatures are cold. these trips. help keep your hands warm). We The islands are influenced by the supply one 20 litre dry bag for spare Antarctic convergence so the How do we get back aboard the clothing while you are paddling. waters can range from +2 degrees ship? We generally use stable plastic to 10 degrees centigrade. CHECK In calm seas we generally unload double kayaks. We have a limited the specific details for the trip you from the kayaks to a Zodiac that number of single kayaks but their choose. We will have dry-suits on is tied to the back of the ship. We use will be restricted to paddlers board for safety. These are included then climb a two metre rope ladder proficient in their use and are able in the surcharge you pay for to the deck of the ship where you to self rescue. We will customise kayaking and will be mandatory. are assisted on board. In adverse the kayaks aboard the ship and conditions we may load into familiarise ourselves with them PLEASE NOTE: the suits will be Zodiacs from shore and transport before paddling. The kayaks have inspected when they are dispensed the kayaks back to the ship. bulkheads and waterproof hatches and also when they are returned. where you can carry spare clothing The dry suits are expensive and the Is the wildlife dangerous? on our day trips. latex and neoprene seals which The larger marine wildlife consists keep them dry are fragile and must of penguins, seals, sea lions and Dry bags can be used for cameras be treated sensibly and carefully. If whales. Occasionally we may spot but salt water is absolutely final in the seals are badly damaged we killer whales but, in our experience, destroying cameras and lenses. often have to bring the suits back they generally steer clear of our If you wish to guarantee your to New Zealand for repair so PLEASE kayaking groups. Nesting skuas camera will be 100% waterproof PAY ATTENTION WHEN YOU ARE on land can be aggressive in we recommend a Pelican case. SHOWN HOW TO USE YOUR DRY SUIT. defending their eggs and chicks so These have a rubber seal and can Typically, suits can be damaged it is wise to give them a wide berth. be kept on the deck of the kayak by shoving sharp fingernails, providing they are not too large. watches or rings through the seal. The pelican 1400 case is about the Additional clothing suggestions are largest size that will easily stow on given in our kayak clothing and SUBANTARCTIC – the kayak but a 1300 size is more equipment list at the end of this KAYAKING CLOTHING suited. Throwaway waterproof document. All kayaking and safety AND EQUIPMENT cameras or more expensive equipment is supplied. Please pay waterproof cameras are a good particular attention to the footwear In addition to the general voyage option for paddling and then you suggestions. clothing list, we have specific can keep your better camera clothing requirements for paddling stored in a dry bag or Pelican case on the subantarctic islands. Read

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until on shore. Zip lock bags are not bottoms but a thermal bottom and a spare. It is very important you a good alternative for SLR cameras pile pants combination is probably have sun protection (+30) for your but may suffice for small point-and- too warm for paddling. face. A hat with a brim that will fit shoot cameras if they are double on top of your beanie is a good bagged. Socks - Heavy thermal socks (2 idea. Make sure it has some tie- pairs). The hull of the kayak gets down strings. If we were to paddle Dry suits are provided and included quite cool and you need heavier in rainy conditions a waterproof hat in your sea kayak surcharge. They socks than for walking, as your feet is useful. are a waterproof nylon suit with move around less. You should bring snug latex rubber seals on your wrists several spare socks in case your feet Hands – We supply pogies (a and neck and integrated dry sock. get wet or cold. The dry suits have waterproof paddling mitt) for cold These keep you dry in the unlikely waterproof nylon feet attached days. Heavy latex rubber kitchen event of a capsize and with thermal to the suit but still need some gloves are useful to bring. A underwear worn underneath, additional protection. lightweight pair of polypropylene maintain your body warmth more gloves underneath is ideal in effectively than a wetsuit. They are Footwear - Our dry suits have a conjunction with the rubber gloves also more comfortable to paddle in waterproof sock attached so you or with the pogies on very cold than a wetsuit. We require details can wear a wool sock inside the dry days. These can be kept in a dry of your height and weight to ensure suit. You still require footwear on top bag while paddling. Wetsuit gloves correct sizing. of the dry suit and a normal wetsuit can be used while paddling but Note: the suits will be inspected boot is recommended. We also are not as useful on shore, and the when they are dispensed and also have a supply of regular gumboots pogies are warmer. Bring additional when they are returned. If the seals onboard ship or you can bring mitts as per the regular clothing list. are damaged through lack of care your own. You will need to carry You will likely get any gloves that you may be charged for repairs. spare socks and other footwear if you use paddling wet – so bring (The dry suits are expensive and the you spend much time on shore as an extra pair of thin polypropylene latex and neoprene seals which walking in neoprene boots is not gloves. Ski glove are not suited for keep them dry are fragile and must very comfortable. It is possible to paddling as they are too bulky but be treated sensibly and carefully. If wear a pair of sneakers or running are fine for when you are ashore. the seals are badly damaged we shoes over the dry suit instead of often have to send the suits back wetsuit boots but ensure they are Swimsuit - or polypropylene to the US for repair so PLEASE PAY large enough to go over several underwear for under your thermals. ATTENTION WHEN YOU ARE SHOWN layers and realise they will get wet HOW TO USE YOUR DRY SUIT. every outing. Please note your foot Waterproof sunscreen block out and size on the experience form. If you lip balm - A skin moisturiser is useful Thermal underwear - medium are buying gumboots remember in the evenings as the wind and dry weight usually suffices for the to get them one size larger than air can cause chapped skin quite bottoms and for the top. (Synthetic normal so you can fit an extra pair quickly. or wool thermals are preferred for of socks or felt liner or felt inner-sole paddling and cotton is not suitable) inside. NB: If your foot size is larger Sunglasses with side visors and tie or - two pairs are recommended. A than 13 or smaller than 6 we advise string for attaching them to prevent pile vest is useful for maintaining bringing your own footwear. If you loss. torso warmth without overheating, are bringing your own neoprene but is optional. Layering is a good boot, as we recommend, please Water bottle – 1-2 litres idea. note that the boots do need to be a size bigger than if you were Waterproof binoculars –for wildlife If you suffer from the cold you barefoot to accommodate the viewing from the kayak. may choose to wear a lightweight drysuit sock. thermal top with a heavier weight Galapagos of the thermal on top of that. A heavy pile Headgear - Warm cap, beanie or Southern Ocean (voyage 1563 and 1567) jacket (200 or 300 wt) is too warm balaclava. One that covers your Kayaking Supplement US$975 pp underneath a dry suit top but a ears is preferable and if it is wool, a light pile jacket (100 wt) may suit on tight weave is better in the wind. It Forgotten Islands a cold day. You may opt for light is good to have two hats so if one of the South Pacific (voyage 1565) pile pants instead of the thermal gets wet while paddling you have Kayaking Supplement US$550 pp

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GALAPAGOS OF THE SOUTHERN OCEAN

SUBANTARCTIC ISLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND & AUSTRALIA © E Bell GALAPAGOS OF THE SOUTHERN OCEAN

This is without doubt one of the most inspirational and informative journeys or expeditions into the Southern Ocean ecosystem that one can make anywhere in the world. Long recognised for their rich biodiversity, the Subantarctic Islands lying to the south of New Zealand are UNESCO World Heritage sites. This places them in a select group of only 180 natural sites that have been designated as ‘the most important and significant natural habitats’ on the planet. They are also afforded the highest conservation status and protection by the Australian and New Zealand governments and access to these islands is by permit only. On this expedition we offer you the unique chance to explore, photograph and understand these wonderful places in the company of some of the most knowledgeable and passionate guides.

As a young biologist, Heritage Expeditions founder Rodney Russ first visited these islands in 1972 with the New Zealand Wildlife Service. He organised New Zealand’s first commercial expedition there in 1989, and 24 years and over 100 expeditions later, he is still as passionate about the islands as he was in 1972. It was only natural that his family should travel with him, what wasn’t predictable was that they would join him in the business and be as passionate about the conservation of this region as he is. As the original concessionaire we enjoy good relationships with © E Bell the conservation departments and some of the access permits we hold are unique to these expeditions.

The name we have given to this voyage ‘Galapagos of the Southern Ocean’ reflects the astounding natural biodiversity and the importance of these islands as a wildlife refuge. (The book ‘Galapagos of the Antarctic’ © K Ovsyanikova written by Rodney Russ and Aleks Terauds and published by Heritage albatross, penguins, petrels, prions, This expedition includes four of Expeditions describes all of these shearwaters and marine mammals the Subantarctic Islands, The islands in great detail.) The islands all like sea lions, fur seals and elephant Snares, Aucklands, Macquarie and lie in the cool temperate zone with seals. The flora is equally fascinating; Campbell. Each one is different a unique climate and are home the majority of it being like the birds and each one is unique, just like this to a vast array of wildlife including and endemic to these islands. expedition.

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ITINERARY Day 3: The Snares – North East Island The closest Subantarctic Islands Day 1: Invercargill to New Zealand, they were Passengers should make their way appropriately called The Snares to the Kelvin Hotel in the central as they were once considered a city, where a complimentary hazard for sailing ships. Comprising night’s accommodation is provided of two main islands and a group tonight. This evening there will be an of five islands called the Western informal get-together at the hotel Chain; they are uninhabited and for dinner; an excellent opportunity enjoy the highest protection as to meet fellow adventurers on your Nature Reserves. It is claimed by © A Russ voyage and some of our expedition some that these islands are home to team. more nesting seabirds than all of the British Isles together. Day 2: Port of Bluff Take breakfast at your leisure in the We plan to arrive early in the hotel restaurant before transferring morning and as landings are not to the port to embark the Spirit permitted we will Zodiac cruise of Enderby. You will have the along the sheltered eastern side opportunity to settle into your cabin of the main island if the weather and familarise yourself with the ship; and sea conditions are suitable. we will also take the opportunity to In the sheltered bays, we should conduct a number of compulsory see the endemic Snares Crested safety briefings. You are invited Penguin, Snares Island Tomtit and © A Russ to join the expedition team and Fernbirds. Cape Pigeons, Antarctic captain on the bridge as we set Terns, White-fronted Terns and especially the herbaceous plants, our course to The Snares and our Red-billed Gulls are also present in are recovering both in numbers and adventure begins. good numbers. There are hundreds diversity. of thousands of Sooty Shearwaters nesting on The Snares; the actual Our plan is to land at Sandy Bay, number is much debated. The one of three breeding areas Buller’s Albatross breed here from in the Auckland Islands for the early January onwards. Hooker’s or New Zealand Sea Lion, a rare member of the seal family. Day 4: Auckland Islands Beachmaster bulls gather on the – Enderby Island beach defending their harems from The Auckland Islands group was younger (ambitious) males, to mate formed by two volcanoes which with the cows shortly after they erupted some 10-25 million years have given birth of a single pup. ago. They have subsequently been Hookers or New Zealand Sea Lion eroded and dissected by glaciation numbers are in a slow decline, for creating the archipelago as we reasons which are not obvious but know it today. most probably connected with a nearby squid fishery. Enderby Island is one of the most beautiful islands in this group and is During our day ashore there will named for the same distinguished be several options, some longer shipping family as our own vessel. walks, some shorter walks and time This northern most island in the to spend just sitting and enjoying archipelago is an outstanding the wildlife. The walking is relatively wildlife and birding location and is easy, a board walk traverses the relatively easy to land on and walk island to the dramatic western cliffs around. The island was cleared of all from there we follow the coast on introduced animals (pests) in 1994 © A Russ the circumnavigation of the island. and both birds and the vegetation,

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Birds that we are likely to encounter to arrive early morning from our include the following species: anchorage at Enderby Island. We Southern Royal Albatross, Northern enter the harbour through the Giant Petrel, Auckland Island Shag, eastern entrance which is guarded Auckland Island Flightless Teal, on both sides by dramatic cliffs and Auckland Island Banded Dotterel, rugged tussock covered hills. Auckland Island Tomtit, Bellbird, Pipit, Red-crowned Parakeet, Our activities here today are totally Yellow-eyed Penguin and Light- weather dependent. We have a mantled Sooty Albatross. There is number of options. If the weather is also a very good chance of seeing OK there will be an opportunity for the Subantarctic Snipe. Other the more energetic expeditioners more common species we will to climb to the South West Cape see include the Goldfinch, Song and visit the Shy Mollymawk colony. Thrush, Blackbird, European Starling, Above the colony we occasionally Red-billed Gull and Redpoll. On see Gibson’s Wandering Albatross Derry Castle Reef we will look for breeding. This climb provides migratory waders which could magnificent views in all directions, include Bar-tailed Godwit, Turnstone especially over the western and possibly vagrants. entrance to Carnley Harbour, Adams Island and Western Harbour. Day 5: Auckland Islands For those not able to make the – Carnley Harbour climb (it is reasonably difficult) there In the south of the archipelago will be an opportunity to Zodiac there is a very large sheltered cruise along the coast of Adams © A Rheborg harbour it is rich in human history Island and Western Harbour, with including shipwrecks, treasure landings in the later. We depart this afternoon for hunters, coastwatchers and of Macquarie Island. course scientific parties. We plan Other options include the Tagua Bay coastwatchers hut and lookout Day 6: At Sea (the former is derelict) which was As we make our way south through occupied during the Second World the Furious Fifties also known as War. We could visit Epigwatt and the the Albatross latitudes, the birding remains of the ‘Grafton’ which was especially south of the Auckland wrecked here in 1864. All five men Islands should be good. We will aboard survived and lived here have a series of informal lectures for 18 months before sailing their on the biology and history of modified dinghy to New Zealand the Subantarctic Islands. We will to get help. Two of the survivors also prepare you for our visit to wrote books about their ordeal. Macquarie Island. Their first hand accounts tell us a lot about their time here. Alternatively © A Rheborg Species that we may see include we may visit the Erlagan clearing the Wandering Albatross, Royal where a German Merchant ship Albatross, Black-browed Albatross, cut firewood to fire its boilers after Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, slipping its moorings in Dunedin on Salvin’s Albatross, Grey-headed the eve of the Second World War. Albatross, Northern and Southern Another potential site is Camp Cove Giant Petrel, Sooty Shearwater where we can see the remains of and Little Shearwater. There should the castaway depots established be plenty of prions including Fairy, and maintained by the New Fulmar and Antarctic, identifying Zealand government between the them is not easy – but we should get 1860s and early 1900s. some great views.

© G Riehle

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Other species to be on the lookout rabbits. The native bird population for include the Soft-plumaged was virtually eliminated and plants Petrel, Mottled Petrel, White- destroyed. The Tasmanian National headed Petrel, Grey-faced Petrel, Parks and Wildlife Service which White-chinned Petrel, Grey-backed administered the island recently Storm-Petrel, Wilson’s Storm-Petrel embarked on a very ambitious and Black-bellied Storm-Petrel. eradication program which appears to have been successful. The island Days 7 to 8: Macquarie Island is now predator free and both the The great Australian Antarctic birds and plants are responding. It is Explorer Sir Douglas Mawson once amazing to witness the regeneration © A Russ called Macquarie Island “One of and the increase in the number of the wonder spots of the world.” birds. You are about to discover why as we spend two days exploring this Macquarie Island is home to four amazing Island. It was one of the species of penguin, Kings, Royals, first of the Subantarctic Islands to Gentoo and Rockhopper. The Royal obtain World Heritage Status and Penguin occurs nowhere else in that was largely due to its unique the world. During our visit we will geology. It is one of the few places land at two sites (subject of course on earth where mid-ocean crustal to weather and sea conditions) rocks are exposed at the surface and you will get a chance to see, due to the collision of the Australian observe and photograph all four and Pacific Plates. species, although the Rockhopper is much harder to capture than the © A Rheborg The island was discovered in 1810 others. and was soon ravaged by sealers which should make it a bit more who introduced various animals Macquarie also has a large comfortable. There will be briefings including rats, mice, cats and population of Southern Elephant and lectures on Campbell Island in Seals. Pups are born in October and preparation for our visit there and weaned in November when the opportunities for pelagic birding breeding adults return to sea. The and/or simply relaxing. weaners and sub adults lie around on the beaches. The weaners go to Days 10 to 11: Campbell Island sea sometime in January, running – Perseverance Harbour the gauntlet of Orcas or Killer We have plenty of time to explore Whales who are waiting offshore. Campbell Island, New Zealand’s southernmost Subantarctic territory. We plan a landing at the Australian Its history is as rich and varied as Antarctic Research Base at Buckles the other islands we have visited. Bay where you will be able to Discovered in 1810 (by the same meet with scientists and base staff. sealing captain who discovered The original base was established Macquarie Island) it too was in 1947 and the island has been soon occupied by sealers who ‘manned’ since then. It is one of introduced rats and cats. the longest continuously occupied bases in the Subantarctic. In 1895 the New Zealand government advertised the island We depart for Campbell Island on as a pastoral lease. The lease was the afternoon of the second day. taken up by an entrepreneurial New Zealand sheep farmer who Day 9: At Sea stocked the island with sheep Today is very similar to Day 6 except and cattle. The farming practices, we are north bound and hopefully which included burning the scrub, © A Rheborg running with the prevailing weather modified the island considerably.

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The farming lasted until 1934 when Other birds which we will search for it was abandoned. Coastwatchers include the teal and snipe, although DATES were stationed on the island during the later is what we would refer to Voyage #1567 the war, at the end of the war as a ‘luck’ bird. The endemic shag 22nd December 2015 to the station was taken over by the can be seen on the harbour, but 3rd January 2016 New Zealand Metrological service unfortunately the nesting colonies of and they maintained a manned Rockhopper Penguins, Grey-head, PRICES weather/research station on the Black-browed and Campbell Island island until 1995. Albatross are outside of the permitted Heritage Suite $9,900 pp Has a large lounge area, a separate areas and we will have to look for bedroom with double bed, a single bed in In the early 1970s the island was these species at sea. the lounge and private bathroom. Large forward and side facing windows. fenced in half and stock was removed off the northern half. The Other birds we should see include Mini Suite $9,300 pp impacts of the remaining animals Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Has a separate bedroom with a double were monitored and they were Northern Giant Petrel, Southern Skua, bed and a single bed or a sofa in the all eventually removed in 1990. Red-billed Gull, Black-backed Gull, lounge and private bathroom. Large side facing windows. The vegetation recovered quickly Antarctic Tern, Redpoll, Dunnock and and the cats died out naturally. New Zealand Pipit. Superior Plus $8,800 pp In a very ambitious (and never Has two lower berths and private before attempted on such a large Day 12: At Sea bathroom. These cabins have windows. scale) eradication programme At sea en route to the Port of Bluff, the New Zealand Department of Superior $8,300 pp take the opportunity to relax and Has one bunk (one upper and one lower Conservation successfully removed reflect on an amazing experience. berth), and private bathroom. These cabins have windows. the rats. With the island declared We will recap the highlights of our predator free, the way was clear expedition and enjoy a farewell Main Deck $7,600 pp to reintroduce the endangered dinner tonight as we complete the Has two lower berths and washbasin. The Campbell Island Flightless Teal last few miles of our journey. nearby showers and toilets are shared which had been rediscovered on with other Main Deck cabins. These cabins have a porthole. an offshore island in 1975. Snipe, Day 13: Invercargill which were formerly unknown from Early this morning we will arrive in the Main Deck Triple $6,600 pp the island but were discovered Port of Bluff. After a final breakfast Has one bunk (one upper and one lower on another offshore island, berth), one lower berth and washbasin. The and completing Custom formalities recolonised the islands themselves. nearby toilets are shared with other Main we bid farewell to our fellow Deck cabins. This cabin has a porthole. The vegetation which the great voyagers and take a complimentary English botanist, Sir Joseph Hooker coach transfer to either a central city ADDITIONAL CHARGES described in 1841 as having a “Flora point or to the airport. display second to none outside the Landing Fees: $800 pp tropics” is flourishing and is nothing Kayaking Supplement: $975 pp In case of unexpected delays due short of spectacular. (All prices are per person in USD) to weather and/or port operations we ask you not to book any onward We will offer a number of options PRICE INCLUDES travel until after midday today. which will enable you to explore Pre/Post cruise transfers, one night the island. There will be extended Note: During our voyage, hotel accommodation in a twin walks to Northwest Bay and possibly circumstances may make it share room (inc. dinner/breakfast), Mt Honey. There will also be an necessary or desirable to deviate all on board ship accommodation easier walk to the Col Lyall Saddle. from the proposed itinerary. This with meals and all expedition shore All of these options will allow you can include poor weather and excursions excluding optional the opportunity and time to enjoy opportunities for making unplanned kayaking programme. the Southern Royal Albatross which excursions. Your Expedition Leader nest here in large numbers. We will keep you fully informed. Landings PRICE EXCLUDES also visit areas of the island which at the Subantarctic Islands of New contain outstanding examples of All items of a personal nature, Zealand are by permit only as laundry, drinks, gratuities.

the megaherbs for which the island 1567230614 administered by the Government is renown. International/domestic flights, of New Zealand. No landings are visas and travel insurance. permitted at The Snares.

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SUBANTARCTIC ISLANDS IN FOCUS

PHOTOGRAPHIC EXPEDITION TO THE SNARES, CAMPBELL & AUCKLAND ISLANDS Photographing with de Roy and the New Zealand Geographic Photographer of the Year award winner © E Bell PHOTOGRAPHIC EXPEDITION TO THE SNARES, SUBANTARCTIC ISLANDS IN FOCUS CAMPBELL & AUCKLAND ISLANDS

© E Bell

© L Carnaby

Auckland, Campbell and the On this photography focused Enjoy a rare opportunity to join Snares Islands are amongst the most voyage, extra time will be spent on celebrated wildlife photographer remarkable wildlife reserves in the these islands in the pursuit of the very Southern Ocean. Designated UNESCO best New Zealand natural history Tui De Roy on an expedition World Heritage sites, afforded the images. With a seasoned artist of to extensively photograph New highest protection of any of the Tui’s Subantarctic experience and nature reserves in New Zealand, they calibre offering her expertise and the Zealand’s ‘forgotten islands’. remain remote, uninhabited and right mix of weather and light, the highly protected by the New Zealand chances are high that the expedition Department of Conservation that will yield a few 2016 NZ Geographic strictly limits the number of people Photographer of the Year entries and allowed to land there each year. who knows, maybe even a winner!

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ITINERARY Day 3: The Snares – North East Island © K Ovsyanikova Our first opportunity for world class Day 1: Invercargill wildlife photos should be at The Passengers should make their Snares some 60 nautical miles way to the Kelvin Hotel in the south of Stewart Island. These central city, where our group are honeycombed with seabird will spend the first night of the burrows, home to hundreds of expedition. This evening there will thousands of Sooty Shearwaters be an informal get-together at (known locally as ‘Mutton Birds’) as the hotel for dinner which will be well as the Snares Crested Penguin, an excellent opportunity to meet Snares Island Tomtit and Fernbirds, fellow adventurers and some of our all of which are endemic. As expedition team. landings are not permitted, we will thriving. Look out for the Anisotome, Zodiac cruise the sheltered eastern the stilbocarpa and gentians along Day 2: Port of Bluff side of the main island. Hopefully with the tussocks and the rata Take breakfast at your leisure in the we will encounter calm seas and forest which make for some great hotel restaurant before transferring soft light conditions as we look for photographic opportunities. to the port to embark the Spirit photographic opportunities which of Enderby. You will have the should include both wildlife and Our second day will be spent in the opportunity to settle into your cabin landscape. If the weather or seas upper region, a historic and familiarise yourself with the ship are not cooperating we may have and sheltered harbour in which before we conduct a number of a chance to try again on the return numerous expeditions and people compulsory safety briefings. You are leg of our expedition as we have have sought refuge. Maori from invited to join the expedition team a bit of extra time in the cruise the Chatham Islands settled here and captain on the bridge as we schedule. set our course to The Snares and our in the early 1840s and the British attempted to establish a colony in adventure begins. Days 4 to 5: Auckland Islands – 1849. Both groups found the climate Enderby Island and soils too harsh and abandoned We will sail past Ruapuke Island, We plan to maximise the daylight the islands. The well known and formerly a local Maori stronghold hours ashore over two full days at documented expeditions of Sir James supporting a population of over 200 Port Ross in the Auckland Islands. Clark Ross, Dumont d’Urville, Robert people and then will be able to see A full day is planned on Enderby Falcon Scott and Douglas Mawson all Stewart Island. Despite appearing Island where the photographic visited this harbour. The New Zealand quite small on most maps it is really opportunities can only be described Government was concerned that quite large and has a 700 kilometre as fantastic, incredible and enemy shipping might congregate in coastline. Seabirds that we may amazing. Whether your interest the harbour during the Second World encounter at this early point in the is in wildlife, landscape or plants War so established coastwatcher’s voyage include albatross, petrels, you will find something here. The stations here. We plan to explore the cormorants, gulls and Little Blue rare New Zealand Sea Lion will be coastline by Zodiac making numerous Penguins. breeding on Sandy Bay beach, landings looking for that special Southern Royal Albatross will be photo which captures the essence nesting on the summit of the island; of this little known refuge deep in the and the rare Yellow-eyed Penguins Southern Ocean. Tonight we cruise to will be transiting to and from the Carnley Harbour in the south. sea and their nests. Keep an eye out in the forest for Bellbirds, Tui, Day 6: Auckland Islands – Carnley and . Harbour Out on the fellfields, Auckland Island Another great harbour with lots Banded Dotterel, Pipit and possibly of opportunities, albeit a little bit the rare Subantarctic Snipe could more weather dependent than Port be photographed. The island is Ross. It is the caldera of an extinct regenerating after the removal of volcano and consequently the browsing animals in the 1990s and landscape is very different to that the special Subantarctic plants are © A Russ of Port Ross. Here forest and tussock

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covered hills rise steeply from the the island) which affords some sea to fascinating jagged peaks magnificent views across the entire DATES often wrapped in mist and fog. island. Whatever your interest, birds, The photographic opportunities plants or landscape, you won’t be Voyage #1669 are different but just as numerous. disappointed with Campbell Island. 2nd to 12th January 2016 Possibilities include a Shy Albatross colony, abandoned coastwatcher’s Day 10: At Sea PRICES huts, a shipwreck and castaway We will strap down and get out Heritage Suite $8,000 pp depots. The hunt for good light those computers for post production Has a large lounge area, a separate and forgiving weather windows will bedroom with double bed, a single bed in work and downloading our best the lounge and private bathroom. Large dictate our exact programme. We efforts for sharing with each other forward and side facing windows. depart from here this afternoon for while sailing the impressive stretch Campbell Island. of water separating these two World Mini Suite $7,800 pp Has a separate bedroom with a double Heritage Sites from our final port of bed and a single bed or a sofa in the Days 7 to 9: Campbell Island call, Bluff. This final leg crosses the lounge and private bathroom. Large side We plan an early arrival at Southern Ocean’s ‘furious fifties’ facing windows. Campbell Island. Perseverance and ‘roaring forties’ which act as a Harbour, nestled beneath Mt Honey, protective barrier to New Zealand’s Superior Plus $7,200 pp Has two lower berths and private has wonderfully protected waters southernmost gems. bathroom. These cabins have windows. to anchor and start exploring this magnificent island. This is one of Day 11: Invercargill Superior $6,600 pp the best sites to photograph Royal Has one bunk (one upper and one lower We will arrive into Bluff as early as berth), and private bathroom. These cabins Albatross. The birds are more possible allowing the opportunity have windows. active in the late afternoon and to get the last shots of the voyage early evening so we will spend the at sunrise while sailing into Bluff Main Deck $6,000 pp morning photographing some of the Harbour. Bid farewell to your Has two lower berths and washbasin. The nearby showers and toilets are shared amazing megaherbs, especially the expedition team after breakfast and with other Main Deck cabins. These cabins Pleurophyllums, for which the island board our complimentary coach have a porthole. is renowned. We will also look for the transfer to downtown Invercargill elusive Campbell Island Flightless or the local airport. Our adventure Main Deck Triple $5,300 pp Has one bunk (one upper and one lower Teal which was reintroduced to the ends but memories will last long berth), one lower berth and washbasin. The island once the rats were removed. beyond this. nearby toilets are shared with other Main There will be an opportunity for Deck cabins. This cabin has a porthole. those with a little more energy to In case of unexpected delays due ADDITIONAL CHARGES walk across the tussock covered to weather and/or port operations hills to the dramatic western cliffs we ask you not to book any onward Landing Fees $500 pp and Northwest Bay. This is an all travel from Invercargill until after (All prices are per person in USD) day excursion with lots of different midday today. photographic opportunities. If the PRICE INCLUDES weather is settled we may also During our voyage, circumstances Pre/Post cruise transfers, one offer the opportunity to climb may make it necessary or desirable night hotel accommodation in Mt Honey (the highest peak on to deviate from the proposed a twin share room (inc. dinner/ itinerary. This can include poor breakfast), all on board ship weather and opportunities for accommodation with meals and making unplanned excursions. all expedition shore excursions. Your Expedition Leader will keep you fully informed. Landings at the PRICE EXCLUDES Subantarctic Islands of New Zealand are by permit only as administered All items of a personal nature, by the Government of New Zealand. laundry, drinks, gratuities. No landings are permitted at International/domestic flights, The Snares. visas and travel insurance. 1669070715

© A Rheborg

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