Combination Router Table

COMBINATION ROUTER TABLE

combination Router Table A flip-up top adds a new angle to table routing. The result is a unique, two-in-one workstation for the ultimate in shaping and joinery.

Installing a router upside down in a router Taking advantage of each configura- An add-on mortising jig makes set- table is a surefire way to upgrade any tion doesn’t mean you need two separate ting up and cutting mortises a breeze, as workshop. The versatility of a router table tools. The top of this router table flips up shown in the middle photo on the next opens up new options for improving the to convert from a standard router table to page. Both of these accessories stow away fit and finish of your projects. a horizontal table in just a few seconds. neatly in the storage space below the top. However that isn’t the only way to get VERSATILE ACCESSORIES. To support the Despite its size, building this router more from a router. A router mounted workpiece in the horizontal mode, you table is straightforward and breaks down horizontally offers some big benefits for replace the fence with the adjustable into easy-to-manage components. You’ll certain tasks, like creating raised panels table shown in the photo above. That’s end up with a combination machine that and cutting mortises and tenons. all you need for most shaping tasks. expands the capabilities of your router.

1 WoodsmithPlans.com WS22234 ©2015 Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved. 1 1 OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 34"W x 47 ⁄4"H x 30 ⁄4"D (Horizontal setup) 1 Construction Overview / 34"W x 40 ⁄2"H x 24"D (Standard setup)

Three-layer top stays flat for heavy-duty use Plywood quadrants allow top to pivot between horizontal and vertical configurations Registration holes are used to mount horizontal table in one of two different positions

Combination track Add-on table includes miter track and T-track T-nuts are used is used for horizontal for added versatility routing operations to attach router table fence and horizontal table

Knob locks table in upright position for horizontal routing operations

NOTE: Plans for Table router table fence are rotates included on page 10 on steel pin

Inner knobs are Outer knobs attach used to lock down the horizontal table the horizontal table to the tabletop once you have dialed in the settings Large hand wheel lets you fine-tune the position of the table in relation to the router bit NOTE: Router table base is made from MDF and provides a generous NOTE: For hardware sources, turn to page 12 amount of enclosed storage

{ A large, thick table and a simple, { The add-on mortising jig and stops { The storage area below holds the adjustable fence tackle most router make cutting smooth, accurate router table accessories or other table tasks with ease. mortises a walk in the park. gear you need to organize.

5#/4 !/4 !/2 CASE SIDE E #/4 A 31

TOP B A VIEW CASE BACK A D #/4

33 CASE SHELF b. 19!/4 C

14!/2 B NOTE: All parts are !/4 15 #/4" MDF CASE BOTTOM A B FRONT D VIEW

31 15 !/4 19!/2 C #/4 PEDESTAL E E 33 d. 22 1!/2"-rad. #/4 !/4" round- 10#/4 #8 x 2" Fh !/4 B over woodscrew SIDE c. SIDE VIEW 1!/2"-rad. VIEW D 3!!/16 A B 2 E

!/2"-dia. A E A rock-solid CASE 1!/4

A router table that can be configured for of the case creates a wide footprint that MDF, you know why it can make a case horizontal or vertical use requires a sure- provides a good balance no matter how feel more solid. The mass of MDF offers a footed stance both when routing and the router table is set up. This large case nice side benefit, as well. It helps dampen while making the transition from one also lets you sneak in some storage space vibration from the router. mode to the other. That job falls mainly to for the accessories that are added later. SIMPLE CONSTRUCTION. The drawing above the case and pedestal of the router table. The choice of materials also plays a role shows how the case is assembled. Rab- The case uses two approaches for cre- in how well the case works. I used MDF bets and dadoes join the parts together. ating stability. First, the overall structure here. And if you’ve ever lifted a sheet of But this isn’t your typical square box case. The sides extend well above the top. This open space is used primar- How-To: CUT RABBETS & DADOES ily for housing the parts that allow the tabletop to change positions. B Figures 1 and 2 highlight the methods 1 2 Flip workpiece for cutting rabbets and dadoes at the to cut matching A B dadoes table saw. These details help anchor parts together and increase the glue surface for END VIEW a. each joint. You put this setup to use in a. #/4 1!/4 #/4 cutting the joints in the sides to accept END the top, bottom, shelf, and back. Aux. VIEW In addition, the top and bottom have a rip fence !/4 !/4 rabbet along the back to capture the case back. A set of dadoes in the top anchor two smaller assemblies shown on the next Rabbets. An auxiliary fence allows you Dadoes. Take your time to size the page. A groove in the back panel allows it to position the fence alongside the dado dado blade to match the thickness to interlock with the shelf. blade without damaging the rip fence. of the MDF for snug-fitting joints. A FEW DETAILS. Before getting out the glue bottle and clamps, I drilled a couple of

3 WoodsmithPlans.com WS22234 ©2015 Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved. 8 a. !/2"-dia. 3!%/16 holes in the sides that serve as SIDE 2 VIEW the hinge and locking points 3!/2 14!/2 for the tabletop. I also relieved 1!/4 the upper corner of the sides F 1!/2"-dia. #/4 12#/4 with a radius, as shown in OUTER DIVIDER 6!/4 detail ‘c’ on the previous F page. This allows the top to pivot freely. G 13 ADD A PEDESTAL. After assembling the case, 14!/2 1!/2"-rad. H I you can move on to making the pedestal. F SMALL SHELF UPPER MDF 9 BACK It’s made up of two layers of and INNER extends out in front of the case to improve DIVIDER G Magnetic catch balance, primarily when the table is set up and strike b. TOP VIEW w/screws for horizontal operations. 9!/8 1!/2 !/4 !/4 15 K CASE WRAP UP I The open, upper portion of the case is G F where you’ll turn your attention to next. 1!/4 A Here, you need to add two small assem- J UPPER DOOR blies next to the case sides, as shown in K the drawing at right. These offer addi- NOTE: All parts are c. FRONT VIEW tional storage. The space between them #/4" MDF will house the router. 15!%/16 FAMILIAR JOINERY. Here again, all the parts are joined with dadoes and rabbets. G 3!/2 LOWER F Keep in mind that you’re making two DOOR !/4 mirror-image assemblies. J H #/4 The dividers fit into the dadoes in the 19#/4 case top. This creates a narrow pocket between the outer divider and the case Continuous side, as shown in detail ‘b.’ This will hinge house a large, arc-shaped plywood w/screws panel added later that allows the e. d. TOP VIEW tabletop to pivot and be locked in !/16 TOP Catch VIEW place. An overlapping back panel encloses the space. !/2 DRILL SOME HOLES. The outer divid- K J ers have a pair of holes that line up with the holes in the case sides. !/4" 1 2!/2 roundover #/4 I used the holes in the sides and a drill bit as guides for marking the locations in the dividers. Then I drilled the holes at the drill press. Take How-To: CUT RECESSED DOOR PULLS note in detail ‘a’ that the rear hole is a. larger to allow for better access to install 1 !/2"-rad. the table locking hardware later on. cove bit !/2 ADD DOORS. The storage areas are enclosed K with simple slab doors. The hinge side of each door has a shallow rabbet to hold 3#/8 a continuous hinge. The box at right Mark ends shows how to create low-profile pulls. of recess END b. VIEW Soften the outer edges using a roundover K (details ‘d’ and ‘e’). The doors are held Risers provide clearance closed with magnetic catches. for bit bearing That wraps up the work on the case. !/2 Before moving on to the top, I painted the Stopped Cove Cuts. Layout lines on the door case after sealing the edges of the MDF define the size of the pull recess. While it may be tempting to rout the profile in and applying a coat of primer. You can a single pass, it’s best to work down to final depth in two passes. find the color I used on page 12.

4 WoodsmithPlans.com WS22234 ©2015 Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved. NOTE: All parts are #/4" Baltic birch plywood NOTE: Tabletop is glued QUADRANT up from M TABLETOP 34 three layers L of plywood #/8"-16 T-nut !/2"-rad. On/off Router switch 11#/4 insert plate L L 8#/4

11!/4 24 9!/4

NOTE: Opening is centered in tabletop. a. !/2"-13 Turn to page 66 to see insert knob step-by-step process

!/2" x 1!/4" Combination track fender washer 3#/4 b. w/screws c. Plastic laminate 1%/8 2!/2 is applied SIDE with contact cement SECTION !/2"-13 x 3" VIEW carriage bolt 2#/4 !/2"-13 d. FRONT T-nut VIEW !/2"-dia. x 2!/2" (/16 steel L %/8"-rad. TOP 14#/4 rod M SECTION !/4 VIEW (/16"-dia. 3"-rad. &/16"-dia. hole, L with 1"-dia. 3!/4 1%/8 !/4"-20 counterbore, threaded #/4" deep !/4 insert 1#/4

L 3&/8 3 L 3 #/4" ply. 2!!/16 #8 x 1#/4" 1!/4"-dia. counterbore, pocket screw FRONT VIEW #/4" deep PLAN VIEW %/8"-wide Baltic birch plywood. To make the top, slot The flip-upTOP I cut one piece of plywood to final size 9"-rad. 14 and shape. Then, one at a time, I glued 10%/8"-rad. A high-quality router table top should on two slightly oversize pieces of ply- M !%/16 3 have a smooth, hard-wearing surface wood and trimmed them with a hand- that’s large and flat. And it never hurts held router and a flush-trim bit. 1!/4 to include a miter track. The top shown in All it takes to make the top smooth and the drawing above has all those features durable is to add a piece of plastic lami- 13%/8 checked off the list. nate. It’s applied with contact cement and However, the dual-purpose nature of trimmed like the plywood, as shown in holes and counterbores are different, as this table requires a few other items. In the Figure 1 on the next page. well. Drill the counterbore for the T-nut horizontal routing setup, the top becomes ALL IN THE DETAILS. With the top in hand, it’s first using a Forstner bit. Then use the a vertical mounting surface for the router time to start adding details. The first is center point to drill the through hole. It’s and an auxiliary table. So it needs to stand drilling several sets of counterbored holes a good idea to have solid backing below up to the changing loads. This top also from the bottom (back) face, as shown in the table to prevent chipping the plastic needs a secure connection to the tilting details ‘b’ and ‘c.’ The holes hold T-nuts laminate as the drill bit exits the hole. mechanism for long-term reliability. that are used to attach the router table VERSATILE MITER TRACK. Next up on the list of HEAVY-DUTY CONSTRUCTION. The starting fence and the horizontal table. details is cutting a groove to hold a com- point for meeting all those requirements I want to point out that there are two mercial miter track. The one I selected is is laminating the top from three layers of different sizes of T-nuts used. So the a combination track that includes a miter

#/4" dado blade

Rout counterclockwise around panel

Layout lines define length of mortise

Trammel pivots on !/2"-dia. dowel Rout clockwise around inside of template

%/8" straight bit track and a T-track. The thing to keep How-To: TABLETOP DETAILS in mind is that the track is wider than a dado blade. So you need to make the cut 1 a. 2 a. SIDE in multiple passes, as in Figure 2. VIEW A LONG MORTISE. The top is connected to 1%/8 the table with a pair of curved plywood L quadrants. For a solid connection, the !/2" flush- L (/16 quadrants fit into long mortises cut in trim bit Round the underside of the top. To determine over two outside edges the location of the mortises, center the Rout #/4" dado top on the case and mark the top where counterclockwise blade it lines up with the pockets in the case. around panel Figure 3 shows a good method for Trim It Flush. Applying an oversize Cut a Track Groove. Fine-tune the making the mortises. A straightedge piece of laminate is easier to line up. rip fence to cut a groove that forms guides a hand-held plunge router. I Trim it flush with a router. a snug fit with the miter track. used a plywood bit to ensure a good fit between the plywood and the mortise. Layout lines 3 3 define length a. The mortise is ⁄4" deep, so you need to of mortise rout it in several shallow passes. A ROUTER INSERT PLATE. Back on the top face #/4 SIDE #/4" of the router table, you need to create an VIEW plywood opening for the router insert plate. This bit L #/4" is a little different than a typical open- 1#/4 ply. ing. Since the table is designed to tilt upright, the insert needs to be anchored Rout a Long Mortise. Clamp a long straightedge to the table so the router to the top so it doesn’t fall out. bit aligns with the layout marks. To prevent overtaxing the router and bit, The insert plate I used has countersunk rout the mortise in several passes, moving from left to right along the guide. holes in the corners. Machine screws and threaded inserts lock the insert plate in 4 5 a. TOP VIEW place, as shown in detail ‘d’ on the previ- 1%/8 ous page. To create the opening, I used a 7 pair of templates (Figure 4). The full pro- 9%/16 cess is detailed in Shop Notes on page 11. 16 MAKING QUADRANTS. The work on the Rout clockwise around Trammel tabletop is complete at this point. So you inside of template pivots on !/2"-dia. dowel can turn your attention to making the a. quadrants. These have a curved edge and a slot that’s used to lock the tabletop !/2" SIDE pattern %/8" in either working position. One edge of VIEW bit straight the quadrant is glued into the mortise in bit the underside of the tabletop. Two Templates. Turn to page 11 to Make a Trammel. The two pivot Lay out the overall shape of the quad- see how templates guide a router to holes in the trammel are used to rant on a square plywood blank. Be sure create a smooth, stepped opening. shape the quadrant and cut the slot. to include the pivot hole, the curved slot, and the “ear” along one edge, as in the 6 a. 7 plan view on the previous page. Glue and clamp A jig saw makes quick work of cut- quadrant into L SIDE mortise, then drive!/2" flush- ting the quadrant to rough shape. Then VIEW pocket screws trim bit I used a router with a simple hardboard !/8" roundover bit trammel to clean up the edge, as shown SIDE in Figure 5. The trammel has a second VIEW pivot hole that’s used to rout the slot. Round 1%/8 After rounding over the outside edges over two outside edges (Figure 6), you can glue the quadrant in (/16 place. I used pocket screws to reinforce the Ease the Edge. A slight roundover Reinforcements. Pocket screws joint, as in Figure 7. The tabletop is ready to softens the edges of the quadrant augment the glue joint where the be installed on the case using the hardware and prevents splintering. quadrant connects to the tabletop. shown in detail ‘a’ on the previous page.

TOP VIEW 1%/8 7 9%/16

!/2" SIDE pattern VIEW bit

SIDE VIEW !/8" roundover bit !/2"-13 x 3" studded knob w/fender washer O a. 11!/4 #/4

TABLE BACK END VIEW Size dado N blade to match SECOND: NOTE: Table back is two 1!/2 5#/4 !/2"-13 plywood Drill layers of plywood, lift block T-nut !/4 through is four layers of plywood 30 hole 1!/2 (/16"-dia. FIRST: Drill O (/16"-dia. hole counterbore with N #8 x 2" Fh with 1!/4"-dia. Forstner bit 1#/4 counterbore, N woodscrew FRONT VIEW !/4" deep on back face

b. 5!/2 6

O 3 6 O P 3 BRACKET LIFT 6 BLOCK 2!/4 1"-rad. NOTE: All parts are #/4" Baltic birch plywood 4!/2"-dia. hand wheel with SIDE VIEW !/2"-dia. hole 2!/2

Adjustable horizontal TABLE c. !/2"-13 !/2"-13 x 7" T-nut threaded rod Completing the case and tabletop gives wheel assembly, as shown in Figure 1 you a fairly standard router table. To take below. The dadoes are sized to match O P O advantage of the flip-up top, there needs the thickness of the Baltic birch ply- to be some kind of support for the work- wood used throughout this part of the #/4

piece. That’s where you’ll be focusing project. The back has two sets of holes #8 x 2" Fh FRONT your attention next. drilled in it, as shown in detail ‘a.’ One woodscrew VIEW The horizontal table consists of two is used with studded knobs to lock into N primary assemblies: a fixed back and the tabletop. The other set incorporates an adjustable table. The back is used to T-nuts, as you can see in the upper right mount the table to the vertical tabletop drawing. These secure the table height in one of two positions. This is done with once you have it dialed in. the T-nuts that were installed earlier. A HAND WHEEL ASSEMBLY. Attached to the detail provides greater access to operate hand wheel lets you fine-tune the height table back is the hand wheel assembly. the hand wheel. The brackets are glued of the table in relation to the router bit. This includes two brackets and a lift into the dadoes in the table back and A SOLID BACK. The table back is made up block. The brackets are cut from square flush with the top edge. Screws driven of two layers of plywood. I softened blanks that have the lower corners bev- in from behind further strengthen the the corners with a radius. Cut a pair eled, as shown in detail ‘b.’ Besides joint (main drawing above). of dadoes in the face to hold the hand lightening the look of the brackets, this Sandwiched between the brackets is the lift block (detail ‘c’). It’s glued up from four layers of plywood. Size the block so How-To: DADOES & COUNTERBORED HOLES that it’s a snug fit between the brackets. At the drill press, drill a counterbore SECOND: for a T-nut and then the through hole to 1 a. !/4 END VIEW 2 Drill through accommodate the threaded rod for the #/4 hole FIRST: Drill counterbore with hand wheel. This is shown in detail ‘c.’ I Forstner bit drove long screws through the brackets N and into the block for a solid connection. a. The hand wheel is attached to a length FRONT O of threaded rod using a set screw. Thread VIEW the rod into the T-nut in the lift block. Size dado blade to match ADJUSTABLE TABLE plywood !/4 (/16"-dia. bit The second part of the horizontal table A Pair of Dadoes. The dadoes are More T-Nuts. Drill the counterbore is the adjustable portion, as shown on centered on the overall length of the so that the head of the T-nut is just the next page. Here you have a double table back. The rip fence acts as a stop. slightly below the surface. thickness table and two sets of braces with plates that join the table to the

FRONT VIEW

!/4 !/4 END VIEW (/16"-dia. bit #/4 a. #8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew FRONT VIEW Combination track w/screws Q S NOTE: Apply plastic laminate 1!/2 after gluing table sections together R 1&/8 30 Q 1" x 3" Back edge mending plate of brace runs along %/8 S rip fence b. TABLE !/4 S R NOTE: All parts are Hand wheel screw #/4" Baltic birch plywood bears against mending plate 12 on underside of table PLATE TOP Q !/4 !/2"-13 x 3" R VIEW studded knob !/2"-rad. (cut down to 2!/8") 7!/2 w/fender washer R 6!/2 BRACE c. Center mending Q plate over hand Q 3!/2 wheel screw Q

S Q 6 SIDE SECTION Q VIEW

d. FIRST: TOP back assembly. The construction is Drill out corners %/8 VIEW straightforward, but there’s a definite SECOND: Cut sides 2 order to the process to get the best results. at the table saw #8 x 1!/2" Fh S 3!/2 1%/8 woodscrew MAKE THE BRACE & PLATE. I began by making THIRD: Cut the two brace and plate sub-assemblies. end of notch !/4"-rad. S at the band saw The braces are similar to the brackets 1 (/16 you just made (main drawing and detail ‘e’). The difference is a tongue and dado to form a tongue that fits into the dadoes Q joint that runs along the back edge, as in the braces. The other detail that you illustrated in the drawing below. Locate need to add is a centered slot, as shown SIDE VIEW R N the dado so that the back face of the in detail ‘a.’ This accepts a studded knob mating plate is flush with the end of the and washer. The knob threads into the brace, as you can see in detail ‘b’ above. T-nut in the table back. e. 2!/2 Cut a rabbet along each side of the plate NOW THE TABLE. A common theme with this project is creating strength by dou- bling up the thickness of critical compo- Trim the second layer of plywood How-To: DADO nents. And the top of the horizontal table flush, then add the plastic laminate just is no exception. But I did things a little as you did on the tabletop. (You’ll have to 1 differently here. The table is screwed to remove the table from the tabletop to trim the braces, but I didn’t want the screws the edges flush.) Be sure to trim around Q to show through the top face. the inside of the router bit notch, as well. To do this, I cut the lower layer of the Complete the work on the top of the table to final size and shape, including horizontal table by taking a trip over to the the router bit notch, as shown in detail table saw. Here, you cut a groove to accept a. #/4" ply. Back edge !/4 ‘d.’ Attach this layer to the braces with the same combination track that’s installed of brace END screws, as shown in the details ‘a’ and ‘e.’ in the main tabletop. You can find the loca- runs along VIEW !/4 rip fence You know the routine by now: Once tion for the groove in detail ‘e.’ the first layer is in place, the second There’s one final bit of hardware to add layer can go on. Like before, start with a to the table before reattaching it to the Tongue & Dado Joint. The first slightly oversized piece. Cut a notch for router table. And that’s to attach a mend- step is cutting the dado. Then size the bit and use that to align the second ing plate to the bottom face. This serves the mating tongue for a snug fit. layer over the first while you glue the as the bearing surface for the hand wheel upper layer of plywood in place. screw (main drawing and detail ‘c’).

#/4" ply. !/4 END VIEW !/4 !/4"-20 Toggle clamp a. insert w/screws b. knob %/16"-18 x 1!/2" 1!/4"-dia. 1!/2 studded knob !/4"-20 x V 1!/4"- 1!/2"hex w/washer rad. #/4 X head 1%/8 bolt 4&/8 1!!/16 W SIDE SECTION CLAMP PLATE 2&/8 VIEW W 3 6

U 11&/8" miter 20 11&/8 bar w/screws T SIDE VIEW JIG BASE 7%/16 T 12 !/2"-rad. V FRONT 5 c. V SECTION 1!/2 VIEW #/8 W

20" mini U T-track !/2"-rad. w/screws U T STOP JIG TOP BLOCK #8 x 1!/2" Fh #/4 X 20 woodscrew NOTE: All parts are #/4" Baltic birch plywood d. #/4 BOTTOM 10 VIEW !/8"-rad. 5#/8 V HANDLE 3#/4 #/8-dia. hole w/&/8" %/16"-18 counterbore, t-nuts 2!/8 !/16" deep 1 U 3!/2 Pilot hole for 4 #8 woodscrew A versatile MORTISING JIG 1!/4

Routing mortises is an ideal operation the motion in and out and side to side. for a horizontal router. In this configu- Stops installed in the table help make it the base. This is what guides the jig side to ration, you have much better visibility easy to rout consistent mortises. And two side down the length of a mortise. of the bit. What you need, though, is a large handles give you better control and On the top face of the base are a pair way to secure and guide the workpiece keep your hands well clear of the bit. of runners that I cut from a commercial while making the cut. The solution is the THE BASE FIRST. The base is a piece of ply- miter bar, as you can see in detail ‘c.’ jig shown here. wood. On the bottom face, a length of These mate with dadoes cut in the bot- The workpiece is clamped to the jig mini T-track serves as a runner, as shown tom face of the mortising jig top. The bars with stout toggle clamps. Runners in in detail ‘b.’ What’s important here is that control the in and out motion of the jig the base and top of the jig constrain it gets installed parallel to the edge of when cutting a mortise to its final depth. ADD THE TOP. In addition to the dadoes I just mentioned, the jig top has four sets How-To: SHAPE A HAND HOLD of T-nuts installed in the bottom face. The T-nuts are anchor points for the tog-

1!/4"-dia. gle clamp assembly. Forstner bit In detail ‘b,’ you can see the dimensions for the handles that are screwed to the jig Drill top. You create the hand holds by drilling press fence out the ends with a Forstner bit (box at Cut on waste left). After cutting away most of the waste side of the with a jig saw, smooth and straighten the Backer layout line prevents edges with files and a little hand sanding. tearout The toggle clamps are fixed to an adjustable plate. Depending on the size of your workpiece, you can locate the plate Drill out the Ends. Use a Forstner bit Rough out the Waste. A couple of in one of four locations on the top using in the drill press to create a smooth quick jig saw cuts remove most of studded knobs and washers (detail ‘c’). radius at each end of the hand hold. the waste between the holes. The last thing to do is make a pair of square stop blocks. These lock into the

A A #8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew SIDE SECTION VIEW 2#/4

2#/4 1 Z

#/8"-16 x 3" !/2 studded knob w/washer #/4 A A

SIDE #/8 VIEW Z

A A #8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew SIDE SECTION VIEW 2#/4

2#/4 1 Z

1#/4 !/4"-rad. NOTE: All parts are a. Z made from #/4"-thick hardwood 6 30 FENCE FACE Y Z A A BACK VIEW !/2

30" mini T-track w/screws 1 A A FENCE SUPPORT 3!/2 b. FENCE BASE 1 Y A A 1 #8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew !/4"-rad. SIDE 30 1 SECTION A A VIEW 2#/4 3!/4 1!/2 c. 2#/4 1 #/8"-16 x 3" Z !/2 studded knob 5!/2 Y w/washer #/4 A A

SIDE #/8 VIEW SIMPLE CONSTRUCTION. The drawing above The hardwood face has a groove Z reveals that a good router table fence can cut in it to accept T-track. The final Y be simply built. This one is an L-shaped parts to make are the supports, as in assembly consisting of a base and face detail ‘b.’ Once they’re cut to shape, beefed up with some supports. the fence can be assembled with glue T-track in the horizontal table with hex The base is a length of hardwood with and screws. The key is keeping the bolts, washers, and knobs, as shown in a centered notch to allow a router bit to fence face square to the base as the detail ‘a’ on the previous page. be recessed inside. Near each end of the parts come together. base is a short slot that’s used to adjust That wraps up the project, and the ROUTER TABLE FENCE the position of the fence in use. The fence router table is ready for use. Be sure to The focus so far has been on making the is attached to the table with washers and locate the router table in a prominent horizontal routing configuration. But in studded knobs that thread into the T-nuts place in your workshop. With all the order to use the standard setup, you’ll along the back of the tabletop, as shown practical features it has, it’s bound to need a solid, sturdy fence. in details ‘a’ and ‘c.’ see a lot of use for years to come.

Materials & Supplies

3 3 7 A Case Sides (2) ⁄4 MDF - 15 x 33 V Handles (2) ⁄4 ply. - 4 ⁄8 x 6 • (2) 48" Mini Tracks 3 3 3 B Case Top/Bottom (2) ⁄4 MDF - 15 x 31 W Clamp Plate (1) ⁄4 ply. - 5 x 12 • (2) ⁄8"-16 x 3" Studded Knobs 3 1 3 1 1 3 C Case Shelf (1) ⁄4 MDF - 14 ⁄2 x 31 X Stop Blocks (2) ⁄4 ply. - 1 ⁄2 x 1 ⁄2 • (2) ⁄8" x 1" Fender Washers 3 1 3 1 1 D Case Back (1) ⁄4 MDF - 19 ⁄4 x 31 Y Fence Base (1) ⁄4 x 5 ⁄2 - 30 • (36) #8 x 1 ⁄2" Fh Woodscrews 1 3 1 E Pedestal (1) 1 ⁄2 MDF - 22 x 33 Z Fence Face (1) ⁄4 x 3 ⁄2 - 30 • (1) 1" x 3" Mending Plate 3 1 3 3 3 1 F Outer Dividers (2) ⁄4 MDF - 13 x 14 ⁄2 AA Fence Supports (2) ⁄4 x 2 ⁄4 - 2 ⁄4 • (2) #6 x ⁄2" Fh Woodscrews G Inner Dividers (2) 3⁄ MDF - 13 x 15 • (4) Magnetic Catches • (4) 1⁄ "-13 x 3" Studded Knobs #/8"-16 x 3" 4 2 !/2 3 1 1 1 1 1 studded knob H Small Shelves (2) ⁄4 MDF - 6 ⁄4 x 14 ⁄2 • (2) ⁄2"-13 x 3" Carriage Bolts • (1) ⁄2" x 4 ⁄2" Hand Wheel w/washer 3 3 1 1 #/4 A A I Upper Backs (2) ⁄4 MDF - 8 x 12 ⁄4 • (2) 1 ⁄2" x 36" Continuous Hinges • (2) ⁄2"-13 x 7" Threaded Rod 3 15 3 1 1 J Lower Doors (2) ⁄4 MDF - 15 ⁄16 x 19 ⁄4 • (6) ⁄2" x 1 ⁄4" Fender Washers • (2) Toggle Clamps 3 1 5 1 SIDE K Upper Doors (2) ⁄4 MDF - 9 x 9 ⁄8 • (14) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews • (2) ⁄16"-18 x 1 ⁄2#/8" Studded VIEWKnobs 1 1 1 5 L Tabletop (1) 2 ⁄4 ply. - 24 x 34 • (2) ⁄2"x 2 ⁄2" Steel Rods • (2) ⁄16" Washers Z 3 5 1 3 3 M Quadrants (2) ⁄4 ply. - 14 x 13 ⁄8 • (2) ⁄2"-13 Insert Knobs • (1) ⁄8" x ⁄4" - 30" Miter Bar 1 5 Y N Table Back (1) 1 ⁄2 ply. - 6 x 30 • (1) Power Tool Switch • (8) ⁄16"-18 T-Nuts 3 1 1 1 3 O Brackets (2) ⁄4 ply. - 6 x 5 ⁄2 • (6) ⁄2"-13 T-Nuts • (2) ⁄4"-20 x 1 ⁄4" Hex Bolts 1 3 1 P Lift Block (1) 3 ply. - 2 ⁄4 x 6 • (6) ⁄8"-16 T-Nuts • (2) ⁄4"-20 Insert Knobs 3 1 Q Braces (4) ⁄4 ply. - 6 x 7 ⁄2 • (2) 36" Combination Tracks 3 1 ALSO NEEDED: R Plates (1) ⁄4 ply. - 6 x 6 ⁄2 • (1) Router Insert Plate 3⁄ " 3 1 Two 49" x 97" sheets of 4 MDF S Horizontal Tables (2) ⁄4 ply. - 12 x 30 • (4) ⁄4"-20 Fh Machine Screws 3 Two 60" x 60" sheets of ⁄4" Baltic birch plywood 3 7 1 3 T Mortise Jig Base (1) ⁄4 ply. - 11 ⁄8 x 20 • (4) ⁄4"-20 Threaded Inserts 2.5 bd. ft. of ⁄4"-thick hard maple (Parts Y, Z, and AA) 3 3 U Mortise Jig Top (1) ⁄4 ply. - 10 x 20 • (8) #8 x 1 ⁄4" Pocket Screws

1#/4 Z 6 Y

A A BACK VIEW

1#/4 Z 6 Y

A A BACK VIEW SECOND: Set bearing of bit to run on previously trimmed edge Insert plate template Waste Through- hole template Use freehand passes to clear away FIRST: Flip waste in corners tabletop Move the router upside down clockwise around the template

Rout clockwise around inside of template Rout clockwise around inside of template Shop Notes Insert Plate Opening Creating an opening for a router insert the smaller through opening to trace the INSERT PLATE OPENING. Now you’re ready to plate is usually a pretty straightforward opening on the tabletop and cut out most make the larger recess to house the insert task. However, the opening for this of the waste with a jig saw. plate. Remove the first template and insert plate requires threaded inserts to SMALL OPENING. Turning the rough cutout install the second template centered over secure the insert while the table is flipped into a smooth, even opening starts with the opening. Since this recess is shallow, upright for horizontal routing. The solu- using a pattern bit to trim the edge of the you need to use a dado cleaout bit, which tion for making it comes in the form of opening flush with the template (Fig. 1). has a short cutting length so the bearing using two templates and three router bits. My pattern bit wasn’t long enough to can follow the template. The opening in one of the templates is trim all three layers of the tabletop. To com- The router bit depth should match sized to match the insert plate. The other plete the job, I flipped the tabletop upside- the thickness of the router insert plate, template is sized for the smaller open- down and used a flush-trim bit. The bear- as shown in Figure 3. In the corners, ing. The dimensions for the openings are ing on this bit follows along the smooth you need to make a few back-and-forth found on page 5. I used the template with edge that was just created, as in Figure 2. passes to clear out the remaining waste.

SECOND: Set bearing of 1 2 bit to run on previously 3 trimmed edge Insert plate Through- template hole template Waste

Use freehand passes Move the router FIRST: Flip to clear away clockwise around tabletop waste in corners the template upside down a. a. a. #/8

!/2" !/2" flush- !/2" dado !/4 SIDE pattern trim bit VIEW cleanout bit bit Rout clockwise around Rout clockwise around inside of template inside of template

!/2" SIDE pattern #/8 VIEW bit !/2" flush- trim bit !/2" dado !/4 cleanout bit MAIL Project Sources ORDER • McMaster-Carr SOURCES 1 ⁄2"-13 Insert Knob. . . . . 6042K81 1 Woodsmith Store ⁄2"-13 T-Nuts. . . . 90975A033 3 800-444-7527 ⁄8"-16 Studded Knob. . . 62215K56 Mending Plate ...... 1030A4 Benjamin Moore 1 " 62215K58 855-724-6802 ⁄2 -13 Studded Knob. . . 1 benjaminmoore.com 4 ⁄2" Hand Wheel. . . . . 6033K71 5 ⁄16"-18 Studded Knob . 62215K53 Kreg 1⁄ "-20 Insert Knob. . . . . 6042K77 800-447-8638 4 kregtool.com • Rockler Magnetic Catch ...... 1009262 Lee Valley Power Tool Switch. . . . . 20915 800-871-8158 Dust Collection Port . . . . 21528 leevalley.com • Kreg Tool McMaster-Carr Combo Trak...... KMS7448 630-833-0300 Router Plate...... PRS3038 mcmaster.com Mini T-Track...... KMS7509 Nevamar Jig & Fixture Bar. . . . . KMS7303 877-726-6526 • Lee Valley nevamar.com Toggle Clamp ...... 17F72.02 • Nevamar Rockler 800-279-4441 Lam . (Maritime Gray). . . . S6027 rockler.com The case of the router table was painted with Benjamin Moore’s Calm Cream (Eggshell Finish). Manufacturers and retailers will periodically redesign or dis- continue some of their items. So you’ll want to gather all the hardware, supplies, and tools you need before you get started. It’s easy to adjust dimensions or drill different-sized holes to suit your hardware.