BIRDING ABROAD LIMITED – SPRING IN THE HEBRIDES 17 – 22 MARCH 2022

TOUR OVERVIEW: Islay, the ‘Queen of the Hebrides’, is rightly regarded as the most beautiful of all the Inner Hebridean islands. Memorable landscapes abound with rugged sea cliffs, white sandy beaches, wild open moorland, pleasant rolling pastures and extensive tidal mudflats, all of which contribute the essential stepping stones to some of the most sensational bird watching in Britain. Large flocks of geese spend the winter here, seeking out its lush pastures and safe roosting sites. By the spring equinox, thousands of Barnacle Geese will be preparing to fly non-stop from Islay to their breeding grounds in Greenland. Though Barnacle Geese predominate, they are certainly not alone, as Greenland White-fronted Geese accompany them on this long journey. The impressive line-up of resident birds includes stately Golden and White- tailed Eagles, adorable Red-billed Chough and diminutive perky Twite. Waterfowl joining the throng include Great Northern Divers, which can be rather common offshore and Slavonian Grebes which seek shelter in secluded bays. As well as birds, the hills attract hundreds of Red Deer and the sea shore hosts both Atlantic Grey and Common Seals. Of particular interest is the Eurasian Otter, which regularly search kelp beds and rocky inlets for fish, and we will make a special effort to discover one.

This enchanting island is steeped in history as well, being the administrative capital of the medieval clan MacDonald, Lords of the Isles no less. These powerful land owners ruled the whole of western Scotland in the Middle Ages. The ruins of Finlaggan Castle can be visited today with much of the island history preserved at the Museum of Islay Life, which safeguards memories of past glories. As if all this was not enough, the island is famous on the whisky tourism route, hosting no less than nine distilleries, including such well-known names as Laphroaig, and . If there is sufficient interest amongst group members, we can visit one and sample the peaty flavours of a famous Islay single malt.

TOUR DESCRIPTION: Our tour begins and ends in Tarbert, an attractive coastal village bordering Loch Fyne on the Kintyre peninsula from where the ferry departs. The ferry crossing lasts about two hours, initially through the still waters of West Loch Tarbert where an excellent selection of seabirds can be found. Red-breasted Mergansers and Shag abound, whilst Great Northern Divers typically reach double figure counts. We should keep our eyes peeled because this is usually the best area for Black-throated Divers, a rather scarce bird in this part of the world. On a clear day the Mull of Kintyre can be seen stretching away to the south, though it is the Paps of Jura that dominate the skyline ahead. Once on the island, we will soon be immersed in a beautiful landscape. Gentle rolling hillsides interspersed with scattered farms hug white sandy coastal beaches, whilst further inland remote and rugged mountain tops add diversity and a visual appeal rarely found elsewhere. Steep cliffs of the west coast are pounded by unrelenting Atlantic rollers offering a stark contrast with the fertile green fields of the adjacent sandy machair of , itself an area of outstanding beauty. The centre of the island is flatter and slightly undulating hosting many sheep farms and whatever cultivation can cope with climate. Further east, rough grassland and extensive moorlands dominate the landscape which rises slowly towards Beinn Bheigeir, the highest point on the island at 491 metres. It is almost impossible to go home disappointed.

During our six-day trip we will witness one of the most outstanding wildlife experiences in the UK. In early spring, tens of thousands of geese will be ready to leave Islay for Greenland, the most numerous of which is the handsome black and white Barnacle Goose, with an island population of about 35000 birds. Large flocks litter the fertile fields and are a delight to watch. The various groups come together in huge roosts on the fields of the RSPB Gruinart reserve or on the salting of . The next most common goose is the Greenland White-front, which winters exclusively in Ireland and the west of Britain. Over one quarter of the entire world population spends the winter on Islay, feeding in discreet small flocks in rough pasture and bogs where we can expect close and prolonged views. They are a declining species, the world population estimated at just over 20000 birds, so warranting the highest conservation concern of all the UK’s geese. Small numbers of Pale-bellied Brent and Greylag Geese make up variety, sometimes bolstered by a rare vagrant Snow Goose or ‘small race’ Canada Goose, all seen on previous visits.

Geese are not the only wildfowl present, as sea and freshwater lochs hold sizeable flocks of Red breasted Merganser, Common Eider and Greater Scaup, plus Red- throated Divers, Great Northern Divers and Slavonian Grebes offshore, some of which may be transitioning into their fine summer plumage.

Scarcer wildfowl include Long-tailed Duck and perhaps a vagrant Green-winged Teal or even a Ring-necked Duck. Waders include Bar-tailed Godwit, Dunlin and Eurasian Curlew, all in good numbers. With all this birdlife around, it is not surprising that Peregrine, Hen Harrier, Common Buzzard and Golden Eagle are frequent components of the avifauna, and sightings of all these, perhaps including spectacular aerial courtship displays, can be expected. White-tailed Eagles have extended their range south from Mull and a few pairs now breed adding yet more large-raptor class to the daily sightings. Red-billed Chough has its most northerly population on Islay and it is always a pleasure to see this rather cheeky crow whilst listening to their squeaky ‘keow’ call notes, as they probe the rich turf of the coastal machair.

BIRD LIST: Expect to see many or all of the following: Red-throated, Black-throated and Great Northern Diver, Slavonian Grebe, Whooper Swan, Pale-bellied Brent Goose, Greenland White-fronted Goose, Barnacle Goose, Greater Scaup, Common Eider, Long-tailed Duck, Common Scoter, Red-breasted Merganser, White-tailed Eagle, Golden Eagle, Hen Harrier, Common Buzzard, Merlin, Peregrine, European Golden Plover, Purple Sandpiper, Bar-tailed Godwit, Iceland Gull, Glaucous Gull, Black Guillemot, Rock Dove, Rock Pipit, European Stonechat, Red-billed Chough, Common Raven, Twite. PHOTOGRAPHIC OPPORTUNITIES: You will definitely want your camera to hand to capture memories of the spectacular wildlife and the awe-inspiring scenery. Birds often appear close to hand and are often approachable, so good results can be expected, even for those using more modest bridge cameras or their mobile phones coupled to a telescope. MAMMALS & OTHER WILDLIFE: We will make a special effort to find Eurasian Otters which are seen rather frequently on Islay. They seem to prefer quiet sea lochs with plenty of seaweed where they search for fish, their favoured prey. It should be easier to discover both Atlantic Grey Seal and Common Seal, whilst Brown Hare, Red Deer and Roe Deer are rather frequent throughout.

ACCOMMODATION & FOOD: Five-nights hotel accommodation on a bed and breakfast basis. All rooms enjoy private facilities and include a full Scottish breakfast. Also included is lunchtime food, which will usually be a packed lunch utilising local shops to provide fresh produce for sandwiches. Evening meals are at your own cost as this provides for greater personal choice. Within reason, special dietary requirements can be met with advance warning by notifying Birding Abroad via the booking form. GROUND TRANSPORT: We will use 9-seat minibuses for comfort, which are big enough to allow participants views from each side and are helpful if the weather is inclement. We can also use them as a sort of mobile hide when getting near to birds for photographs. WEATHER & CLOTHING: Though Islay is famous for a generally mild climate, it is best to be prepared for everything as conditions can change rapidly. Whilst the spring equinox brings welcome longer and lighter days, sunshine, rain and wind are all likely, so waterproofs, hat, gloves and boots should be deemed as essential clothing. The ferry crossings provide good chances to see divers and other sea duck, so a warm coat is advisable. Some ground is wet, so good walking shoes or boots are essential, though there is no need for Wellington Boots. EASE & PACE: Most of our birding will be undertaken on short walks from the vehicles. These are normally on flat ground, though hillier at the Mull of Oa which is undertaken at a sensible pace.

PRICE: The price is to be £1245 sharing a twin or double room, which includes the return ferry crossings from the mainland, all local transport using a comfortable mini- bus on Islay, five-night accommodation on a bed and breakfast basis at a comfortable island hotel with en-suite facilities. A full Scottish breakfast will get the day off to a good start and we also include packed lunches which will ensure the daily routine remains smooth. A single room supplement of £225 applies. On this tour, and to provide more personal choice, evening meals are at your own expense, with varied menus to suit a variety of budgets. JOINING THE TOUR: The official starting point is the Kennacraig ferry port, just a couple of miles outside the village of Tarbert. We meet here at 12:00 lunchtime on day 1 of the tour. By car, arrange to arrive in good time to board the ferry, though if you are travelling any distance, it is more sensible to stay the previous night in Tarbert, where hotels and guest houses are accustomed to catering for ferry users. Parking is available at the terminal and some hotels allow you to leave the car whilst you are away on Islay. By public transport: It is also possible to travel to Kennacraig by public transport, utilising a train to Glasgow, from where a bus service connects with the ferry. By air: Loganair flies daily from Glasgow to Islay, a short journey of 45 minutes. This is highly recommended as it saves several hours of travelling. There are connecting flights from many regional UK airports. We may be able to assist with some transport to and from Scotland, at shared cost. This could include pick-ups in Bournemouth, the Midlands, Doncaster, and perhaps Glasgow, so please let us know if this would be of interest. GROUP SIZE: Maximum of 10 with 2 leaders and 2 vehicles.

DAY TO DAY ITINERARY

Day 1: Thursday 17 March Tarbert to Islay. The ferry will depart the Kennacraig ferry port near Tarbert at midday, allowing time for a leisurely breakfast for those who decide to arrive the previous evening. Sea watching from the deck of the ferry can be rewarding, so we will gather on the sheltered side to begin our bird watching. All three divers, Great Northern, Red-throated and Black-throated are possible, especially in the calm waters of West Loch Tarbert. It would not be uncommon to see about 20 Great Northern, here in a favoured wintering locality. There will be plenty of Red- breasted Mergansers and Common Eider, whilst careful scanning might reveal Black Guillemot and Slavonian Grebe, both by now assuming summer attire. Food and coffee can be purchased on board where comfortable seats await those who prefer not to watch from deck.

Once ashore on Islay, we travel about 20 miles to our accommodation, but such is the abundance of birds that it is unlikely we will make the journey without stopping. Loch Indaal is one of the top sites on the island for wildfowl, and a handy pull over gives excellent views over this sea loch where ducks, divers and waders can be sought. Night in a well-appointed hotel. Days 2 to 5: Friday 18 to Monday 21 March Islay. The sight and sound of huge flocks of Barnacle Geese descending to roost is one of the most evocative and unforgettable avian experiences in the UK. On one or more evenings we will position ourselves close by as the light fades and vast, noisy hordes descend to their communal roosts. As many as 35000 of these handsome black and white geese can be involved, offering an absolutely unforgettable sight. The relatively mild climate enables a rich swarth of grass to cover much of the island’s centre and west, and it is here that the birds feed during the day. They are highly mobile and as we travel around the island, we can stop to take a good look. The Greenland Whitefront is the next most numerous species, and is more widely distributed, often favouring rank grassland where they spread out in small flocks which can be more difficult to locate.

Whilst we are out and about, we are likely to come across a few Greylag Geese or perhaps a Pink-footed Goose to add variety, and there is of course the realistic chance of a rarer Snow, Cackling or even a Todd’s Canada Goose. Geese are not the only wildfowl we can expect. The sheltered water of Loch Indaal harbours Common Eider, Red-breasted Merganser, Greater Scaup and Long-tailed Ducks whilst extensive inter tidal flats attract wintering shorebirds including Bar-tailed Godwit, Red Knot and Common Ringed Plover. A tarmac road skirts the entire area and by stopping regularly in designated off road lots, we can scan the bays for these and other species such as divers, swans and perhaps a Black Guillemot or even a Purple Sandpiper. Both ‘white-winged’ gulls, Glaucous or Iceland Gull are likely.

There are a number of other important areas we will need to cover to find all the target species. The RSPB reserve of Gruinart is a magnet for dabbling ducks such as Common Teal and perhaps Northern Pintail, Mallard and Northern Shoveler, and most years a rare North American Green-winged Teal will take up residence. Eurasian Curlew, Northern Lapwing and European Golden Plover find excellent feeding here, all these birds being tempting to the larger birds of prey. We will avail ourselves to the visitor facilities on offer including a series of hides and walkways allowing a thorough exploration of this important site. Hen Harriers regularly hunt across the reserve.

The Rhinns of Islay is a peninsula stretching off to the south, hosting rough fields, hills and planted forests, a haven for birds of prey and we will be on the look lout for displaying Golden Eagle and Common Buzzard, both resident birds here.

The small settlement of is one of the best places for close views of Common and Atlantic Grey Seals. They prefer sheltered inshore waters and groups can be found resting on rocks at the head of the narrow inlet.

The machair of Kilchoman is one of the prettiest landscapes of the west coast, fertile fields attracting flocks of Twite and regular Red-billed Chough, which can often be seen in the churchyard that houses the impressive and free-standing Kilchoman Cross. From here, a series of backroads can be explored giving access to deserted white sandy beaches, and to the north, Loch Gorm and wintering Whooper Swans.

In the east, a narrow road leaves the settlement of towards Claggain Bay. On the way it passes three of Islay’s most famous distilleries: Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg. Each produces its own peaty flavoured single malt and we can call for a visit if there is sufficient interest. Beyond is ideal Eurasian Otter habitat and we will be on the look-out for these elusive carnivores. What a highlight a sighting would be, so we will choose a calm day to maximise our chances.

Nearby, the RSPB manages a second important reserve on Islay. A narrow single- track road wends its way through a barren wilderness across peninsula. The sea cliffs of the Mull of Oa rise sharply to over 130 metres above sea level. They are the most impressive cliffs on the island, and the view south west all the way to the Antrim coast of Northern Ireland is superb. The reserve itself comprises a working farm aimed at providing ideal habitat for Twite, but it is the towering cliffs that dominate the scene, affording the best chance of seeing Golden Eagle, Peregrine, Rock Doves and Common Raven. It is just a short walk to the imposing American Monument, which commemorates the 266 American seamen who lost their lives when the HMS Tuscania was torpedoed off the coast in February 1918.

Day 6: Tuesday 22 March Return to Tarbert. Having enjoyed our final full Scottish breakfast, we head a short distance to Port Ellen from where we catch the mid-morning ferry back to the mainland. The journey allows a last chance to further acquaint ourselves with divers and sea ducks before we arrive at midday in Kennacraig where the tour ends.

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