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The Evolution of Native Textiles - Part II (Contd

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The Evolution of Native Textiles - Part II (Contd Weekly Publication of Cotton Association Edited & Published by Amar Singh of India 2020-21 No. 41 23rd March, 2021 Published every Tuesday Cotton Exchange Building, 2nd Floor, Cotton Green, Mumbai - 400 033 Phone: 23704401/02/03 Email: [email protected] www.caionline.in The Evolution of Native Textiles - Part II (Contd. from Issue No. 40 dated 16th March, 2021) Dr. T.R. Loknathan has a Ph. D. in plant breeding. The umbrellas and canopies of Lord He is currently working as a Principal Scientist in Jagannath and other deities carry some of the finest examples of applique from the Division of Crop Improvement at Orissa. Applique work in present ICAR-CICR, Nagpur. He is pursuing day Odisha, reflects contemporary his research on genetic enhancement trends and is to be found on of cotton. furnishings, home decors, bags, lamp shades, etc., in diverse colours and shades, fulfilling Textiles of Orissa the needs of the buyers; adding Applique has a long history market value to these products in Orissa, situated on the East and resulting in a flourishing coast of India with its industry. beautiful coastline and hilly terrain, traditional Folk painting and cuisine, and folklore palm leaves engraving of primitive tribes. is another exquisite Applique basically art practised by implies carrying over of the traditional Orissa impression from one textile matter to another. artisans. They diversified into pattachitras The art form typically depended on four basic (painting on cloth) and illustrations on palm leaf colours - red, white, black and yellow to produce manuscripts. The patras usually have mythological a striking effect. In recent years, other colours themes - from Mahabharata, Ramayana and have been added, improving the designs as well. legends concerning Radha- Krishna and Lord This art form was patronised more by temples Jagannath. and religious institutions. The brilliant applique or patchwork of Pipli is famous for its bold The chitrakaras or the painters use character and vitality representing a modern indigenous methods by coating the cloth with look with exquisite brilliance and artistry. a mixture of chalk and tamarind seeds which Pimpli artisans skillfully stitch traditional motifs produces a surface of leathery quality on which of elephants, peacocks and flowers on umbrellas, the artist paints with earth and stone clouds canopies and fans on a cloth background giving meaningful expressions to their artistic resulting in a harmony of colourful patterns with skill and imagination. Now for a diversified embroidery work. products range, the painters have used the basic 2 23rd March, 2021 COTTON STATISTIcs & NEWS Traditional Sarees from Orissa patches and colours in synchronisation with the in Kotpad district, 560 kms from Bhubaneshwar. native character, maybe textiles, may be wooden This is a traditional fabric woven with coarse items, etc. These new products have been fetching cotton in natural dyes. The vegetable / natural a good price in both the domestic and international dye used in this fabric is an extract of root bark market. of the Atul tree. These tribal fabrics usually have motifs like snake, water pot, temple, axe, hand Hand-woven textiles of Orissa have entered fan, etc. Nowadays the motifs are developed on the living rooms of people from all over the world. products like cushion covers, table mats, scarves The textiles and handlooms of Odisha are a must and stoles for a wider market. to see, touch, try on and buy. Specialised textile designs are created as Ikat means ‘ to tie’ and tie or bind the thread extra thread ornamented hand-woven festooned and dye it so that the tied portion is not dyed. drapes .The plain woven fabric is decorated with This basic idea is carried out on the warp / weft insertion of extra warp or weft thread in the threads as per a predetermined pattern which direction of ground warp (longitudinal) or weft comes out prominently after weaving. When (horizontal) evolving a predetermined motif with either longitudinal thread (warp) or horizontal desired colour and weave. Bomkai, Berhampuri, thread (weft) is dyed, the fabric is called single Karki, Siminol Habspuri and Dhalapatahar and Ikat. The dexterity of these weavers is so high that Parada are the major extra thread ornamented the motifs can be circular or curved, calligraphic or hand-woven textiles having their unique strength even portraits of humans or statues of Gods. Ikat and characteristics. has evolved in the form of Sambalpuri handloom fabrics that includes mostly sarees, dress materials, Bomkai was originally woven in coarser bedsheets, napkins and handkerchiefs. cotton yarn in Bomkai, is at present mainly woven on finer cotton and silk yarn in the The weavers are also adding beautiful motifs districts of Sabarnapur and Boudh. The main by using extra warp and weft threads to give it a products are sarees and dress materials. The unique texture. beauty of the products lies in the extra weft designs decorating the anchal / pallu having Other specialised textiles are mainly confined motifs of flowers, miniature tree forms, birds and to the Nupatana area of Orissa. The Nupatana animals combined with extra weft designs and hand – woven textiles are popularly known as border. Nowadays all the extra thread designs Khandua fabrics. The Khandua has a link to the are mixed with a tie -dye touch evolving a special culture of the state, as these have been traditionally look. Sometimes gold coated threads are used for used for the costumes of Lord Jagannath. In these bridal saris. fabrics, the motifs are of larger size and typically include traditional designs of elephant, lion, lotus, Orissa is a leading tussar producing states creeper, temples, etc. woven only on sarees using in the country and has got a rich tradition of fine cotton and silk yarn with bright colours. weaving tussar fabrics of lovely texture and lustre. Ranging from sarees, scarves and dress Other natural organic dyed products are materials to latest home furnishings, tussar Katpada saree and scarves produced in Kotpad fabrics have now become a status symbol. COTTON AssOCIATION OF INDIA 23rd March, 2021 3 Gopalpur in Jajpur district, Makiadia in Balasore on these Kanthas, sometimes there would be a district, Fakirpur in Keonjar district and Shirajul blooming lotus with a hundred petals. in Mayurbanj district are the main areas of tussar in the North- East part of the state. Generally Vintage Kanthas are preserved in the the products are made by using cotton silk as Ashutosh Museum, Gurusaday Museum, Indian warp and ghicha and noil (different types of Museum and in the Art gallery of Anand Niketan raw silk yarn) as weft. The final product is a of West Bengal. The Gurusaday Museum holds fabric in different shades of gold and brown the largest collection of Kanthas numbering more and different textures used only on special than two hundred. The Kanthas held in the above occasion. places have been collected from Jessore, Khulna, Faridpur, Mymansing and other districts of Traditional Textiles of West Bengal : undivided Bengal (presently Bangladesh). Apart This state is endowed with a rich culture of from this, some exhibits of Kanthas of different artists, painters, craftsmen preserving the native patterns have been found in the districts of tradition since ages. In the early days, paintings Bankura, Birbhum and 24 Parganas of West used to be drawn on the palm leaves. The painting Bengal. There are many variations in the types done on cloth were called Kanthapattas (kantha of Kanthas and their lengths varied between one in Bengal means a cotton wrapper of patched metre and a 120 cm. Kanthas that were used to sheet). Subsequently, handmade paper of cotton cover the body in winter were known as Lep pulp was used for these paintings. Kanthas. These Kanthas were comparatively larger in size and were used to cover the whole Kantha is a centuries old tradition of stitching body just like quilts stuffed with cotton. patchwork cloth, which evolved from the thrift of rural women in the Bengal region. Kantha A square shaped Kantha of small size known refers to both a style of embroidery as well as the as Betan, was woven for covering boxes and finished cloth. In fact, it is one of the oldest forms trunks and for wrapping old manuscripts and of embroidery in India, with its origins going works. Then again, the long - shaped Kanthas back to the pre-Vedic age. woven for wrapping around mirrors and combs, were known as arschilata. Small bags woven for A very clear, close and intimate link between keeping betel nuts and nutcrackers were called the innovative spirit of women and the colourful duryani and a thin variety of kantha was known traditions of those times, can be seen in the art of as rumal kantha. stitching Kantha for domestic use. Kanthas gave free reign to the imagination of women, their Most unique is that of an exhibit of a Sujni designs told of folk beliefs, themes and characters Kantha acquired from Jessore (Bangladesh). This from Ramayana and Mahabharata, historical Kantha carries some writing stitched all around tales, gods and goddesses, and the personal lives, a border of leafy designs surrounding a lotus yearnings and desires of the artisans. with eight petals. The wording of the writing is reproduced as follows: ‘The lines stitched by Some Kantha designs bear a close resemblance Mahasundari on this Kantha stitched with her to the patterns which are used in the popular art own hand is dedicated to her revered father’. of alpana. Truly exquisite designs were woven This brings out the humility and devotion Kantha designs talk of folk beliefs, themes and characters from Ramayana and Mahabharata, historical tales, gods and goddesses, and the personal lives, yearnings and desires of the artisans 4 23rd March, 2021 COTTON STATISTIcs & NEWS which were prominent features of the social Pradesh, Khasis of Lohit, the Mishings of remote life of that period.
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