©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

South & Kerala

Maharashtra p82 ^# p44 & p228 p117 p170 Andaman Islands p417 Kerala p333 p259

Isabella Noble, Michael Benanav, Paul Harding, Kevin Raub, Iain Stewart PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to South MUMBAI Palolem ...... 155 India & Kerala ...... 4 (BOMBAY)...... 44 Patnem...... 160 & Kerala Map ...... 6 . . . . 82 KARNATAKA. . . . . 170 South India & Northern Maharashtra. . 84 Bengaluru (). . . 172 Kerala’s Top 12...... 8 Nashik ...... 84 Southern Karnataka . . . . 187 Need to Know...... 14 Around Nashik...... 88 Hesaraghatta ...... 187 What’s New...... 16 Aurangabad...... 88 Mysuru (). . . . . 187 If You Like...... 17 Ellora ...... 92 Around Mysuru...... 198 Month by Month. . . . . 20 Ajanta...... 95 Bandipur National Park . . 199 Itineraries ...... 26 Jalgaon...... 98 Nagarhole Booking Trains ...... 29 National Park ...... 200 Nagpur...... 98 , Spas & Kodagu (Coorg) Region. . . 201 Around Nagpur...... 100 Spiritual Pursuits. . . . . 31 Hassan...... 203 Southern Maharashtra. . . 101 Volunteering...... 35 Belur...... 204 Konkan Coast...... 101 Travel with Children. . . . 37 Halebid...... 205 Matheran...... 105 Regions at a Glance. . . . 40 Sravanabelagola...... 205 Lonavla...... 106 Karnataka Coast. . . .. 206 Pune...... 108 NATALIIASOKOLOVSKA /SHUTTERSTOCK © Mangaluru (Mangalore). . . 206 Around Pune...... 113 ...... 208 Kolhapur ...... 114 ...... 208 Mahabaleshwar ...... 115 Malpe...... 209 GOA...... 117 Gokarna...... 209 Panaji & Central Goa. . . 120 Central Karnataka. . . . 213 Panaji...... 120 ...... 213 Old Goa ...... 126 Anegundi...... 220 North Goa ...... 127 Hosapete (Hospet) . . . . 221 Mapusa ...... 127 Hubballi (Hubli)...... 221 VIRUPAKSHA TEMPLE (P214), HAMPI, KARNATAKA Candolim...... 128 Northern Karnataka. . . 221 Calangute & Baga . . . . . 131 ...... 221 Anjuna...... 135 Around Badami...... 223 GUZELGASHIGULLINA /SHUTTERSTOCK © Assagao...... 139 Vijapura ()...... 224 Vagator & Chapora . . . . 140 ...... 227 Morjim...... 144 TELANGANA & ANDHRA Asvem ...... 145 PRADESH ...... 228 Mandrem...... 146 Telangana...... 230 Arambol (Harmal). . . . . 147 ...... 230 South Goa...... 150 Bhongir ...... 248 Margao...... 150 ...... 248 Colva...... 151 Palampet...... 248 Benaulim...... 152 PALOLEM BEACH (P155), Andhra Pradesh . . . . . 249 Agonda...... 153 GOA Vijayawada ...... 249 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Amaravathi...... 251 Kanchipuram ...... 359 South India Today . . . . 440. Nagarjunakonda...... 251 ...... 362 History ...... 443 ...... 252 Puducherry The Way Of Life ...... 458 Around Visakhapatnam. . 255 (Pondicherry)...... 364 Spiritual India ...... 465 Tirumala & Tirupati. . . . . 256 Auroville...... 373 Delicious India ...... 472 Around Tirumala Central Tamil Nadu . . . 374 The Great & Tirupati...... 258 Chidambaram...... 374 Indian Bazaar ...... 483 The Arts ...... 490 KERALA ...... 259 (Tranquebar)...... 375 Architectural Southern Kerala. . . . . 261 Kumbakonam...... 376 Splendour ...... 494 Thiruvananthapuram Thanjavur (Tanjore). . . . . 378 & Landscape . . 497 (Trivandrum)...... 261 Trichy (). . . 382 Kovalam...... 266 Southern Tamil Nadu. . . 386 Varkala...... 271 Chettinadu ...... 386 Kollam (Quilon) ...... 276 Madurai...... 389 Around Kollam...... 278 Rameswaram ...... 393 Alappuzha (Alleppey). . . . 278 SURVIVAL Kanyakumari GUIDE Marari & Kattoor ...... 283 (Cape Comorin)...... 395 Kottayam...... 284 The Western Ghats. . . . 398 Kumarakom...... 285 Kodaikanal (Kodai) . . . . . 399 Scams...... 504 Kerala’s Coimbatore...... 404 Women & Solo Western Ghats. . . . 286 Travellers...... 506 Coonoor...... 406 Periyar Tiger Reserve . . . . 287 Directory A-Z...... 508 Kotagiri ...... 407 Munnar...... 292 Transport...... 521 Ooty Around Munnar ...... 296 (Udhagamandalam). . . . . 409 Health...... 530 Central Kerala...... 297 Mudumalai Language ...... 535 Kochi (Cochin)...... 297 Tiger Reserve...... 414 Index...... 547 Around Kochi ...... 311 Anamalai Tiger Reserve Map Legend...... 558 (Indira Gandhi Thrissur (Trichur). . . . . 312 Wildlife Sanctuary & Around Thrissur...... 314 National Park) ...... 415 Northern Kerala. . . . . 314 ANDAMAN Kozhikode (Calicut). . . . 314 ISLANDS...... 417 Wayanad Region...... 317 SPECIAL FEATURES Port Blair...... 421 Kannur & Around...... 320 Around Port Blair...... 425 Bekal & Around...... 322 Ancient & Historic Havelock Island Sites colour feature. . 162 Lakshadweep ...... 323 (Swaraj Dweep) ...... 426 TAMIL NADU. . . . . 333 Neil Island Mysuru Palace in 3D. . . 190 (Shaheed Dweep) ...... 431 (Madras). . . . 335 Middle & North Kerala colour feature. . . 325 Northern Tamil Nadu. . . 353 Andaman...... 434 East Coast Road...... 353 Little Andaman...... 436 Delicious India. . . . . 472 Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram)...... 355

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PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN OFF THE BEATEN TRACK BEATEN THE OFF

# 0 500 km South India & Kerala: Off the Beaten Track e0 250 miles : : : : : Bhuj •# Gandhinagar MADHYA 4: :4: 4: : 44•# PRADESH TADOBA-ANDHARI TIGER•# LONAR METEORITE •# Bhopal Ranchi Man:dvi •# : : : •#Ahmedabad RESERVE Gulf o:f : : : : : (Amdavad) CRATERIndore Kachchh Rajkot •# This Maharashtrian reserve is one of 444•#44: GU:JARAT Created 50,000 years ago this huge : : : the best places in India for 5 crater in Maharashtra has a shallow : : : wildlife-watching while relaxing in green lake at its base and wilderness ©Lonely Planet Publications Ltd Pty Junagadh •# : : : accommodation ranging from Sa4urashtra 4: :Surat all around. (p99) (Kathiawar homestays to luxury jungle lodges. DUDHSAGAR FALLSPeninsula:) : :•# Raipur•# •# Nagpur (p100) Meaning 'Sea of Milk' Dudhsagar: is : : Goa’s 300m-high, tiered waterfall,Gulf of Ajanta •# 5 Khambhat ë# Bhubaneswar reached by a bumpy, 45-minute 4WD •# TADOBA-ANDHARI CHHATTISGARH ride through stunning jungle scenery. •# #æ 5 Aurangabad TIGER RESERVE (p144) LONAR 5 : METEORITE ODISHA 5 5 Mum:bai•#: CRATER : MAHARASHTRA : : •# Pune •# Nizamabad 5 5 MURUDESHWAR •# Sholapur Warangal •# Bheemunipatnam This beachside pilgrimage town in •# •# TELANGANA Visakhapatnam Karnataka is known for its colossal •#Hyderabad Ratnagiri seashore statue of Lord •# Ú# GUNTUPALLI overlooking the Arabian Sea. (p211) Nizamabad : : 5: GUNTUPALLI •# •#Vijayawada 5 : A former hilltop Buddhist cave ARABIAN 5 5 5 : : SEA •# monastery in Andhra Pradesh DUDHSAGAR Kurnool Panaji •# (Panjim) •# Ongole 5 especially noteworthy for its caves, FALLS •#Hampi GOA #Y carvings and chaitya-griha (prayer ANDHRA hall; p252) PRADESH Gokarna •# KARNATAKA •# KARNATAKA •# •# ESHW 5 5 BAY OF Bengaluru 5 BENGAL (Bangalore) 5 Mangaluru •# •#Chennai (Mangalore)•# NE & Mysuru •# N LP CKWTES •# (Mysore) & THESWN E •#Puducherry TAMIL (Pondicherry) E K NADU Kozhikode •# Trichy (Calicut) •#Coimbatore (Tiruchirappalli) A •# A PKL TGE ESEE ë# 5 5 5 LAKSHADWEEP Kochi (Cochin) •# SEA 5KERALA 5 5 Alappuzha (Alleppey) •# LP 5 5 5 •# A CKWTES & Kollam (Quilon) •# HNSHK •# THESWN E Varka5la •# 5 Mayabunder # Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) •# Andaman Islands Kanyakumari Gulf of SRI Mannar LANKA ## Port K Blair PKL TGE COLOMBO #_ ESEE HNSHK R K O MALDIVES T N

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN #_ TRACK BEATEN THE OFF 25 26

Itineraries

É •#Munnar Kochi •# (Cochin) É

Alappuzha •# (Alleppey) NA

Matha Amrithanandamayi

•# Mission

É É

Kollam •# (Quilon) •# Thiruvananthapuram G U L F O F Varkala (Trivandrum) M A N N A R

É •#

•#Kovalam

I N D I A N O C E A N

2 WEEKS Classic Kerala

With its coconut-palm-fringed beaches and languid backwaters, Kerala can justly claim to be India’s most laid-back state. But there’s plenty of colour and fun to spice up your tropical idyll – lively festivals and snake-boat races, Kathakali dance-dramas, charming colonial-era quarters and a famously flavoursome cuisine. Spend a day visiting the museums and dining well in capital Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum), before making the half-hour hop southeast to beach resort Kovalam. Shift down another gear at nearby Varkala, a holy town with a dizzying clifftop guesthouse-and-restaurant enclave, where you’ll keep active with yoga, SUP or surf- ing. Continue north to Kollam (Quilon) and take the tourist cruise along the canals to Alappuzha (Alleppey) with an overnight stop at the Matha Amrithanandamayi Mission, the ashram of Kerala’s celebrated ‘Hugging Mother’. Reaching Alappuzha (Alleppey), you’re in backwaters central; aboard a houseboat, kayak or canoe, discover what the sublime backwaters are all about. Next, detour east into the tea-coated, very trekkable hills of Munnar. Travel back down to Kochi (Cochin) and take the ferry to the old colonial outpost of Fort Cochin, where seafood barbecues, warm homestays, arty cafes, colonial-era mansions, Kathakali shows and the intriguing Jewish quarter at Mattancherry fill a fascinating few days. 27

NA

Ajanta Nashik É •# •# •# Ellora PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Mumbai •#

É

Hampi •# •#

Goa É It

i nerar Mysuru •# (Mysore) ÷# Wayanad

i es É Wildlife Sanctuary Kochi •# (Cochin)

R AE ANKA

4 WEEKS Goa, Caves & Cities

City lights, historic sites, beachy bliss, jungle adventure and a touch of colonial-era quaintness – this trip will give you a flavour of all that’s fantastic about the south. Begin in cosmopolitan Mumbai, Bollywood’s beating heart and home to some of the nation’s finest spots to shop, eat and drink. Take a sunset stroll along Marine Drive, a curvaceous oceanside promenade dubbed the ‘Queen’s Necklace’ because of its sparkling night lights, finishing with bhelpuri (fried rounds of dough with rice, lentils and chutney) on Chowpatty Beach. Catch a ferry to Elephanta Island from Mumbai’s historic Gateway of India to explore its stunning rock-cut temples and the triple-faced sculpture of Lord Shiva. Next, make your way to the dazzling vineyards of Indian wine country around Nashik, sipping award-winning creations at Grover Zampa or Sula Vineyards, an outside-the-box Indian experience. Continue northeast to explore the ancient cave art at Ajanta and Ellora, situated within 150km of each other near Aurangabad. The incred- ible frescoed Buddhist caves of Ajanta are clustered along a horseshoe-shaped gorge, while the rock-cut caves of Ellora – containing a mix of Hindu, Jain and Buddhist shrines – are set on a 2km escarpment. Next up: the tropical beach haven of Goa for some soul- reviving seaside therapy. Wander through lush spice plantations, visit Portuguese-era cathedrals in Old Goa, shop at Anjuna’s colourful flea market and take your pick from dozens of fabulous beach spots, before travelling east to the traveller hot spot of Hampi in neighbouring Karnataka. Ramble around Hampi’s enigmatic boulder-strewn land- scape and imagine what life here was like when it was a centre of the mighty Vijayana- gar empire. Make the long trip down to Mysuru (Mysore) to explore Mysuru Palace, one of India’s grandest royal buildings, learn about ashtanga yoga and shop for silk and sandalwood in its colourful markets. From Mysuru it’s an exciting bus or taxi ride across the Western Ghats into Kerala and Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary, a pristine and jungle reserve and one of the best places in the south to spot wild elephants. Finally, take the hair-raising road down to the coast and make your way south to Kochi, Kerala’s intriguing colonial-era city, where a blend of Portuguese, Dutch and British history com- bines with wonderful homestays, creative cafes and a buzzing traveller scene. 28

Tadoba-Andhari ÷# Tiger Reserve InIa InIa É Chennai •# Mamallapuram

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN (Mahabalipuram)

•# Tiruvannamalai É Hyderabad •# •# •#

Puducherry (Pondicherry) É

É Trichy •# (Tiruchirappalli)•# •# Kumbakonam

Thanjavur É

It (Tanjore)

i nerar Bengaluru Mysuru •# (Mysore) (Bangalore) •# Madurai •# Wayanad Wildlife Mudumalai Sanctuary ÷#÷#Tiger Reserve i es

Ooty •# É (Udhagamandalam) É

Munnar •# ÷# •# srI Kanyakumari ana Periyar Tiger srI Reserve ana

Cities, Hill Stations 3 2 Sacred Tamil Nadu WEEKS & Sanctuaries WEEKS

An offbeat trip through the contrasting A journey through Tamil Nadu is a trip into cities, wildlife reserves and hill stations of South India’s spiritual soul. the Deccan and Western Ghats. Delve into the rich history of Chennai Start with Maharashtra’s little-visited with a wander around the Government but fantastic Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Museum before visiting the ancient Ka- Reserve, offering some of the best pros- paleeshwarar and Parthasarathy temples. pects for sighting wild tigers, before Travel south to beachside Mamallapuram heading south to the wonderful princely (Mahabalipuram) and its rock-cut capital Hyderabad with its centuries-old shrines. Move inland to Tiruvannamalai, Islamic monuments and labyrinthine ba- where the Arunachaleshwar Temple is one zaars. Continue south to the culinary and of India’s largest sacred complexes. Trade shopping delights of India’s 21st-century in temples for flamboyant cathedrals over IT capital, Bengaluru (Bangalore). On a few days in the delightful old French to the royal city of Mysuru. Gawp at seaside colony of Puducherry (Pondi- ubergrand Mysuru Palace and try ash- cherry) before heading back inland to the tanga yoga. Head south to Tamil Nadu’s stunning Unesco World Heritage–listed Mudumalai Tiger Reserve or Kerala’s medieval temples around Kumbakonam Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary, where and Thanjavur (Tanjore). Continue to you can spot wild elephants and take jun- Trichy (Tiruchirappalli), home to the gle safaris, then on to the cool hill town of spectacular Rock Fort Temple and the Ooty (Udhagamandalam), one of India’s Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, probably most-loved holiday retreats. Take the toy India’s biggest temple. Then head south to train to Mettupalayam, near Coimbatore, Madurai and the incredible Meenakshi then cross into Kerala and the tea-covered Amman Temple, widely reckoned the hills of Munnar, with fine hiking and pinnacle of South Indian temple secluded mountain accommodation. Fin- architecture. If you like, wind down at ish with trekking and more chances of a Kanyakumari, the southern tip of India, tiger or elephant sighting at Periyar Tiger with its temple to the virgin sea goddess Reserve. Kumari, or continue west into Kerala. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 547

Index

A Restricted Area Permit Ashoka, Emperor 445 bazaars 18 accessible travel 508 419-20 ashrams 31, 34 beach huts 509 accommodation 16, 39, 283, safe travel 419 Matha Amrithanandamayi beaches 17, 2, 9, 13, 326-7 508-11, see also telephone services 421 Mission 278 Alleppey Beach 279 individual locations travel to/from 420 Osho International Beach 1 (Shaheed Dweep) accommodation costs travel within 420-1 Meditation Resort 112 431 Andaman Islands 425 tribal peoples 437-8 Osho International Beach 2 (Shaheed Dweep) Meditation Resort 109 Andhra Pradesh 250 Andaman Trunk Road 434 432 Sivagiri Mutt 271-2 Goa 124 Andamanese 437-8 Beach 3 (Swaraj Dweep) Sivananda Yoga Kerala 273 Andhra Pradesh 41, 249-58, 427 Dhanwantari Ashram Maharashtra 87 229 Beach 3 (Shaheed Dweep) 266 432 Mumbai 57 accommodation 228 Sri Aurobindo Ashram Beach 4 (Shaheed Dweep) Tamil Nadu 358 accommodation costs 364-5 432 Telangana 250 250 Sri Ramana Ashram 362 Beach 5 (Swaraj Dweep) climate 228 activities, see individual Surfing Ashram 209 427 activities festivals & events 230 Vivekanandapuram 396 Beach 5 (Shaheed Dweep) Adivasis 460, see also food 228 Assagao 139-40 432 tribal peoples highlights 229 Asven 145-6 Black Beach 271 Agonda 153-5 history 230 ATMs 515 Butler Bay 436 223-4 Anegundi 220-1, 218 Aurangabad 88-92, 89 Cherai Beach 311 air travel 521, 522 animals 497-9, 500, see Auroville 373-4 Cola 152 airports 16 also individual species autorickshaws 525 Elephant Beach 427 10, 95-8, 169, Anjuna 135-9, 135 Avalanche Valley 413 Girgaum Chowpatty 51 96, 10, 168, 169 antelope 498 avian flu 532 Havelock Island (Swaraj Alappuzha 278-83, 280 antiques 514 31-2, 291 Dweep) 427 alcohol 479-80 apps 526 Asven 145 Juhu Beach 51 Alleppey, see Alappuzha arak 480 Kochi 299 Kalapathar 427 Amaravathi 251 Araku Valley 255-6 Kovalam 270 Kalipur Beach 435 Andaman Islands 13, 42, Arambol 147-9 Madikeri 201 Kappil Beach 271, 323 417-38, 418 architecture 11, 494-6, 11 Mamallapuram 357 Kerala 326-7 accommodation 417 art deco 165 Mandrem 146 Kudle Beach 210 accommodation costs Chettinadu mansions 388 425 Ayyappan 467 Marina Beach 341 Chhatrapati Munda Pahar Beach 426 beaches 417 Maharaj Terminus 49 cell phones 421 Neil’s Cove 427 colonial-era 189 B Netaji Nagar 436 climate 417, 419 backwaters 9, 286-7, 322, Mumbai 165 Nileshwar Beach 323 environment 419 328-9, 8-9, 328-9 area codes 15, 519 Odayam Beach 271 geography 419 Badami 221-3 art 484-6 Beach 210 highlights 418 Baga 131-5, 132 art galleries Papanasham Beach 271 history 419 Bandipur National Park David Hall 298 Paradise Beach 210-11 internet access 421 199-200 Kalakriti Art Gallery 233-4 Radhanagar Beach 427 mobile phones 421 Bangalore, see Bengaluru Kashi Art Gallery 298 Ramakrishna Beach 252 bargaining 485 Mario Gallery 121 Tarkali Beach 104 Museum of Goa 131 basilicas, see churches & cathedrals Thottada Beach 320-1 Map Pages 000 Tara Books 337 bathrooms 510, 519 Wandoor Beach 425 Photo Pages 000 arts 490-3 Bavikonda 255 beer 16, 70, 479 548 Bekal 322-3 religion 465, 467, 469, cathedrals, see churches & Basilica of Our Lady of Belur 204-5 470 Cathedrals Dolours 312 Benaulim 152-3 wildlife 501 caves 169 Chennai 342 Bengaluru 41, 172-87, 174-5 border crossings 521-2 Ajanta Caves 10, 95-8, Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate accommodation 178-9 bouldering 215-16 169, 96, 10, 168, 169 Conception 120 activities 177 465 90

INDEX INDEX bread 473 Badami 222-3 Church of South India drinking & nightlife 314 182-3 bribes 514 Baratang caves 434 Church of St Cajetan 108 entertainment 184-5 British 127-8

B-C 452-3 Borra Caves 255  festivals & events 178 Church of St Francis of food 179-82 bronzeware 483 Buddhist Caves, Ellora

Assisi 127  94-5 history 173 Buddhism 470 CSI Christ Church 292 Edakkal Caves 318 shopping 185 Buddhist temples & sites Lourdes Church 384 444, 168-9 92-5, 169, sights 173-7 Marth Mariam Church , tourist information 185-6 Ajanta Caves 10, 95-8, 94 168-9 312 169, , , , Guntupalli 169, 252 tours 177 96 10 168 169 New Jerusalem Church Amaravathi 251 Jain Caves, Ellora 95 travel to/from 186, 187 375 Aurangabad Caves 90 77 travel within 186-7 Our Lady of Immaculate Bavikonda 255 Karla Caves 108 betel nut 474 Conception Cathedral Bhaja Caves 108 114 366 Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh 109, 112 Buddha Statue & Undavalli Cave Temples Our Lady of Lourdes 235-6 249 Cathedral 312 bhang lassi 517 Ellora Caves 92-5, 169, cell phones 14, 421, 518 Puducherry 366 Bheemunipatnam 254 94, 168-9 cemeteries 298, 299 Sacred Heart Basilica Bhongir 248 Global Vipassana chai 480 366 bicycle travel, see cycling Pagoda 51 Chapora 140-4, 142 San Thome Cathedral Bidar 167, 227, 167 Golden Temple 204-5 337 Chennai 42, 335-53, 338- Bijapur, see Vijapura Santa Cruz Basilica 298 Guntupalli 169, 252 9, 344-5 birds 498-9, 500 Sé Cathedral 126-7 Karla Caves 108 accommodation 342-5 birdwatching St Aloysius College Nagarjunakonda 251 activities 341 Dandeli 222 Chapel 207 Sankaram 255 courses 341 Hampi 216 St Francis Church 297 Thotlakonda 255 drinking & nightlife Ranganathittu Bird St John’s Church 384 Zangdogpalri Temple 348-9 Sanctuary 199 St Mary’s Cathedral 391 204-5 entertainment 349 Thattekkad Bird budget 15, 507 St Mary’s Orthodox Sanctuary 296 food 345-8 buffalo racing 210 Church 284 Vedanthangal Bird history 336 bus travel 319, 523-4, 525 St Mary’s Syrian Sanctuary 357 shopping 349-50 Knanaya Church 284 Bylakuppe 204 Blue Mountains 402 sights 336-7, 340-1, 342 St Stephen’s Church 409 boat travel 522, 523, 525 tourist information 350-1 St Teresa’s Church 51 boat trips 19, 8-9, 328-9 C tours 341-2 St Thomas’ Cathedral 50 Alappuzha 279 Calangute 131-5, 132 travel to/from 351 St Thomas’ Church 409 Kerala backwaters 286-7, Calicut, see Kozhikode travel within 352-3 cinema 492-3 Kollam 276 camping 509 Chennamangalam 311-12 Cinque Island 426 Periyar Tiger Reserve Candolim 128-31, 130 Cherai Beach 311 climate 14, 442, 502, 534 288 canoeing 329 Chettinadu 386-9 Cochin, see Kochi Bollywood 75, 492-3 Cape Comorin, see Chidambaram 374-5 coffee 16, 480 Kanyakumari Chidiya Tapu 426 Bombay, see Mumbai Coimbatore 404-6, 405 booking trains 29-30 car travel 522, 524-5 children, travel with 37-9 Colva 151-2 Mumbai 74 books 440, 459, 471, carbon-monoxide consulates 511-12 486, 491 poisoning 518 Chinnar Wildlife cooking classes 475 architecture 444, 496 Carnival 20 Sanctuary 297 Assagao 139 food 472, 473, 476, 477, carpets 483-4 Chola Temples 377 Kochi 299 478, 479 car-sharing apps 526, see Christian sites 337 Munnar 293 history 443, 448, 455 also taxis Christianity 470 Goa 119 churches & cathedrals Palolem 155-6 Mumbai 80 495-6 Periyar Tiger Reserve 288 cash 515 Basilica de Bom Jesus 126 Vagator 141 Map Pages 000 caste system 459-60 Photo Pages 000 549 Coonoor 406-7 disabilities, travellers Kala Ghoda Arts Festival fruits 474-6 Coorg region, see Kodagu with 508 47 region diving 19 Karnataka 172 costs 15, 513, see also Baga 133 Kerala 261, 312 G Galgibag 160 individual regions Calangute 133 Kochi 300 courses Gandhi, Mahatma 46, Chidiya Tapu 426 Maharashtra 84 455-6, 488

art 341, 485 INDEX Kovalam 267 Mumbai Sanskruti 47 Gandhi Memorial cheesemaking 407 Malvan 104 music 491 Museum 390 cooking 55, 141, 189, safety 534 Mysuru 193 Gandhi National 366, 475 Shaheed Dweep 432 Nariyal Poornima 47 Memorial 108  C-H diving 133, 267, 427, 432 Swaraj Dweep 427, 432 Nehru Trophy Boat Ganesh 466  language 341 20 Race 279 20, martial arts 264 dolphin-watching 128 Tamil Nadu 336 47, 23 massage 189 dosas 478 Telangana 230 Ganpatipule 103-4 meditation 18, 32, drinking water 533 film industry sites 492-3 gay travellers 73, 514 34, 251 drinks 479-80 Bollywood 37, 75 gems 505 surfing 366 beer 16, 70, 479 Tollywood 237 geography 500-1 yoga 17-18, 32, 107, 147, films 75, 440 geology 500-1 266, 341, 366, 404, scams 504 folk art 485 ghee 475 Covelong, see Kovalam whisky 188 (Tamil Nadu) wine 86, 188 food 472-82, 512-13, 167, 363, 167 see also individual drugs 504, 513-14, 517 Goa 9, 41, 117-61, 118, 9 craft centres locations Dussehra 193 accommodation 117 Kalakshetra Craft Centre books 472, 473, 476, 477, 341 478, 479 accommodation costs 124 Craggy Island 435 cooking courses 475 E Central Goa 120-7 credit cards 515 economy 440 dabba-wallahs 69 climate 117 scams 504 electricity 511 etiquette 473 festivals & events 120 cricket 463-4 elephants 430, 497, 500 glossary 481-2 culture 458-64 food 117 Ellora Caves 92-5, 169, 94, 240 highlights 118 currency 14 168-9 Mumbai street food 66 history 119 customs regulations 511 embassies 511-12 safety 477 North Goa 127-49 cycle-rickshaws 525 emergencies 15 scams 504 safe travel 139 cycling 300, 522-3 environmental issues 442, spirituality 479 South Goa 150-61 498, 501-2 street food 348, 477-8 tourist information 119 boat trips 287 forts 17, 166-7, 496 D travel to/from 119 da Gama, Vasco 449 volunteering 36 323 travel within 119-20 dabba-wallahs 69 Eravikulam National Park 167, 227, 167 297 Goa Express 529 dairy 474 Chalukyan hill fort 248 Ernakulam, see Kochi gods 465-7 dance 331, 490 Fort 258 etiquette 442 Gokarna 209-13 dance classes 140 food 473 166, 234-5, around Thrissur 314 Citadel (Vijapura) 224-5 religion 471 166-7 Karnataka 187 Dansborg fort 375-6 temple photography 95 Guntupalli 252 Kerala 263-4, 299-300, 92, 166 Excelsior Island 435 307-8 128 exchange rates 15 Tamil Nadu 366 Fort St Angelo 320 H Dandeli 222 Fort St George 341 haggling 485 Halebid 205 dangers, see safe travel F Gingee Fort 167, 363, 167 Daulatabad Fort 92 ferries 329 Golconda Fort 166, 234- Hampi 10, 164, 216, 218, 2, , , Deccan Odyssey 529 festivals & events 19, 20-3, 5, 166-7 10 33 165 deer 498 491, 23 Janjira 101-2, 167 accommodation 216-19 deforestation 502 Andhra Pradesh 230 249 activities 215-16 dehydration 534 dance 491 Fort 116 festivals & events 216 dengue fever 532 Elephanta Festival 47 102-3 food 219 dhal 473 Ganesh Chaturthi 20, 47 109 history 213-14 Dhanushkodi 16, 394 Goa 120 Fort 114 shopping 219-20 Dharavi Slum 56 Hampi 216 104 tickets 214 Dharmasthala 208 Jio Mami Mumbai Film 113-14 tourist information 220 Diglipur 435-6 Festival 47 248 travel to/from 220 550 466 Kanaka Temple Undavalli Cave Temples Hubballi 221 Harmal, see Arambol 249 249 Hubli, see Hubballi Hassan 203-4 Kapaleeshwarar Temple Vadakkunathan Kshe- Hyderabad 12, 230-47, 231, health 506, 530-4 337 tram Temple 312 233, 234, 238, 242, henna 462 Kashivishvanatha Temple Vaikunta Perumal 12, 163 376 Temple 360 hepatitis 532-3 accommodation 236-8

INDEX INDEX Keshava Temple 199 Varadaraja Perumal activities 236 Hesaraghatta 187 Temple 360-1 Temple 208-9 drinking & nightlife 241-4 hijras 463 359 Kumari Amman Temple entertainment 244-5 hiking, see trekking 396 Venkateshwara Temple H-J festivals & events 236  hill stations 11, 18-19, 332, Kumbeshwara Temple 256 food 239-41 Venugopala Swamy 376 11 ,5  Coonoor 406-7 Lakshimi Narasmiha 215 Temple 198 sights 231-6 Kotagiri 407-8 tourist information Madurai 164, 12, 164-5 Vijayalaya Cholisvaram 387 245-6 Mahabaleshwar 115-16 Mahabaleshwara Temple tours 236 Udhagamandalam 210 Virupaksha temple 214, travel to/from 246 409-14 Mahaganapati temple 223, 2, 165 Himalaya, the 500 210 Vittala Temple 214 travel within 246-7 Hindu temples & sites 12, Mahalaxmi Mandir 114 historical sites 162-9 17, 365, 494, 495, 510 Mahishamardini Bahmani Tombs 227 1000-Pillared Temple I Mandapa 359 Cellular Jail National Indian classical dance 187 248 Memorial 421 Mamallapuram 165 Indian clothing 461 Achyutaraya Temple 215 Colonel Bailey’s Dungeon Manjunatha Temple 208 influenza 533 Ajanta Caves 10, 95-8, 199 Meenakshi Amman insurance 513, 527, 530 169, 96, 10, 168, 169 Temple 164, 389-90, Hemakuta Hill 215 internet access 421, 513 Arjuna’s Penance 355 12, 164-5 Madikeri Fort 201 internet resources 15 Arunachaleshwar Temple Nageshwara Temple 376 Malik-e-Maidan 225 accessible travel 508 362 Nataraja Temple 374-5 235 LGBT+ 514 Ayyappan Temple 292, Ramanathaswamy 235 442 wildlife 497 Temple 394 Sule Bazaar 215 Bhadrakali Temple 248 469, 495 Ramappa Temple 248-9 Upli Buruj 225 Birla Mandir 233 Islamic calendar 20 Ramaswami Temple 376 465-8 Brihadishwara Temple Islamic sites 495, see also Raya Gopura 359 history 443-57 379 mosques Rock-Cut Temple 266-7 British East India Channakeshava Temple Bidar 227 Rock Fort Temple 383 Company 452-3 205 Hyderabad 230-6 Sarangapani Temple 376 Chola Empire 446-7 Durga Temple 220, 223-4 Vijapura (Bijapur) 225-5 Shore Temple 355, 165 Christianity 448-50 Ekambareshwara Temple itineraries 26-8, 26, 27, Shri Krishna Temple 314 contemporary 457 360 28, see also individual Elephanta Island 54 Shri Murudeshwar early civilisation 443-6 regions temple 211 Ellora Caves 92-5, 169, European arrival 449-50 ivory 514 94, 168-9 Siddeshwara Temple 248 Independence 454-6 Five Rathas 355, 357 Simhachalam Temple Mughals 450-2 Ganesh Ratha 359 252 Muslim expansion 447-9 J Jain temples & sites Hampi 164 Sri Chamundeswari Partition 454-7 Temple 189 Badami 221-2 Hanuman Temple 220 Portuguese 449 Sri Jambukeshwara Vijayanagar empire Bhandari Basti 205 Hazarama Temple 215 Temple 382-3 447-9 Chandragupta Basti 205 Hoysaleswara Temple Sri Kalahasteeswara 205 War of Independence Ellora Caves 92-5, 169, Temple 365 , Iskcon Temple 51 453-4 94 168-9 Sri Manakula Vinayagar Gomateshvara Statue Janardhana Temple 271 hitching 525 Temple 366 205 Kailasa Temple 93-4, HIV 533 Sri Ranganathaswamy Sittannavasal 387 168-9 Temple 382 holidays 517 Sultanbatheri 318 Kailasanatha Temple 361 Svayambhu Temple 248 homestays 510 470 Kala Temple 84 Thanjavur 164-5 Hosapete 221 Jalgaon 98 Kamakshi Amman Thirunelly Temple 318 Hospet, see Hosapete Temple 360 hostels 510 Japanese B encephalitis Tiger Cave 354 533 hotels 509 Cave Temple Jarawa 437-8 355 houseboats 328, 8-9, jeep safaris 500 Map Pages 000 328-9 Photo Pages 000 551 Anamalai Tiger Reserve accommodation costs L Northern Maharashtra 416 273 84-101 Lakshadweep 323-4, 327 Bandipur National backwaters 286-7, 322 landmarks Southern Maharashtra Park 199 101-16 bus travel 319 231 Dandeli Wildlife Central Kerala 297-314 Mahatma Gandhi Marine Sanctuary 222 Chinese Fishing National Park 425 climate 259 Nets 297, 324

Mudumalai Tiger Reserve Mahé 314 INDEX drinking & nightlife 275 Taj Mahal Palace, 414-15 mahua 480 festivals & events 261, Mumbai 47-8 Nagarhole National malaria 531-2 312 languages 14, 441, 533-42 Park 200 Malayalam language floods 282, 311 classes 341  J-M Parambikulam Tiger 539-40 food 259 food 481-2  Reserve 295 Malpe 209 highlights 260 Kannada 538-9 Periyar Tiger Reserve Malvan 104-5 288 homestays 283 Konkari 539 Lakshadweep 323-4 Malvan Marine National Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Malayalam 539-40 Park 105 Reserve 100 Northern Kerala 314-23 Marathi 540-1 Mamallapuram 165, 355-9, Wayanad Wildlife Southern Kerala 261-86 Tamil 535-8 356, 165 Sanctuary 317-18 Western Ghats 286-97 Telugu 541 Mandrem 146-7 jewellery 484 khadi 488 leatherwork 487 Mangalore, see Mangaluru Khotachiwadi 51 leeches 534 Mangaluru 206-8, 206 kitesurfing 146 K legal matters 513-14 maps 514 Kochi 297-310, , , Kailasa Temple 93-4, 298 302 leopards 77, 498 Mapusa 127-8 304, 307, 325, 330-1 168-9 lesbian travellers 74, 514 Marari 283-4 accommodation 300-3 Kakkabe 203 LGBTQ+ travellers 73, 514 540-1 kalamkari 341, 485 accommodation costs lighthouses 273 Margao 150-1 kalarippayat 264, 330, 331 Alleppey Lighthouse 279 activities 299 markets & bazaars 18, Kalipur 436 Little Andaman 483-9 courses 299-300 kambla 210 Lighthouse 436 Anjuna Flea Market 138 drinking 303, 305-7 Kanchipuram 359-62, 360 Madras Lighthouse 341 Charminar 244 eating 303, 305-7 Kannada language 538-9 Mamallapuram 359 Crawford Market 46 entertainment 307-8 Kannur 320-2 Thangassery 276 Devaraja Market 189 festivals & events 300 Kanyakumari 395-8, 397 Vizhinjam Lighthouse Krishnarajendra Market shopping 308 266 Karnataka 41, 170-227, 171 174 sights 297-9 literature, see books accommodation 170 Lalbaug Market 76 tourist information Little Andaman 436-8 Mackie’s 135 accommodation costs 308-9 177 Lonar 99 MMC New Market 151 tours 300 Central Karnataka 213-21 Lonavla 106-7 Municipal Market travel to/from 309 climate 170 Long Island 434-5 (Panaji) 125 travel within 309-10 festivals & events 172 Lunar calandar 20 Saturday Night Market Kochi-Muziris Biennale 491 (Arpora) 135 food 170 Kodagu region 201-3 marriage 458-9 highlights 171 Kodaikanal 399-404, 400 M Matha Amrithanandamayi history 172 Madgaon, see Margao Kolhapur 114-15 Mission 278 Karnataka Coast 206-13 Madikeri 201-2 Kollam 276-8, 277 Matheran 105-6 Northern Karnataka Madras, see Chennai Konkan Coast 101 Mayabunder 438 221-7 Madurai 164, 389-93, 390, Konkan Railway 529 meat 473-4 permits 204 164-5 Konkani language 539 medical services 531 Southern Karnataka magazines 515 Kootiattam classes 263-4 meditation 17-18, 32, 187-206 Mahabaleshwar 115-16 Kotagiri 407-8 34, 33 kathakali 330, 490, 330-1 Mahabalipuram, Chennai 341 Kochi 307-8 Kottayam 284-5 see Mamallapuram Hyderabad 236 Thiruvananthapuram Kovalam (Kerala) 266-71, 467 , Kovalam 267 263-4 268 326-7 Maharashtra 40, 82-116 Kovalam (Tamil Nadu) 354 Pune 109, 112 Thrissur 314 accommodation 82 Tiruvannamalai 362 Kattoor 283-4 Kozhikode 314-17, 315 accommodation costs 87 Meenakshi Amman Temple kayaking 19, 279, 329 Krishna 466 climate 82 389-90, 12, 164-5 Kerala 41, 259-332, 260, Kumarakom 285-6 festivals & events 84 mehndi 462 8-9, 33 Kumbakonam 376-8, 378 food 82 accommodation 259 199 Mercara, see Madikeri ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Kevin Raub Mumbai; Maharashtra Atlanta native Kevin started his career as a music jour- nalist in New York, until he ditched the rock ’n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing. He has since written more than 70 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal. Kevin also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers, and continues pounding the world’s pavements with one goal in mind: membership in the Travelers’ Century Club before the age of 50. His country count currently stands at 93. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram @RaubOnTheRoad.

Iain Stewart Karnataka; Telangana & Andhra Pradesh Iain trained as journalist in the 1990s and then worked as a news reporter and a restaurant critic in London. He started writing travel guides in 1997 and has since penned more than 60 books for desti- nations as diverse as Ibiza and Cambodia. Iain’s contributed to Lonely Planet titles including Mexico, Indonesia, Central America, Croatia, Vietnam, Bali & Lombok and Southeast . He also writes regularly for the Independent, Observer and Daily Telegraph and tweets at @iaintravel. He’ll consider working anywhere there’s a palm tree or two and a beach of a generally sandy persuasion. Iain lives in Brighton (UK) within firing range of the city’s wonderful south-facing horizon.

Contributing Writerp Daniel McCrohan wrote the Booking Trains and Scams chapters. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Isabella Noble Kerala; Andaman Islands English-Australian on paper but Spanish at heart, Isabella has been wandering the globe since her first round-the-world trip as a one-year-old. Having grown up in a whitewashed Andalucian village, she is a Spain specialist travel journalist, but also writes extensively about India, Thai- land, the UK and beyond for Lonely Planet, the Daily Telegraph and others. Isabella has cowritten Lonely Planet guides to Spain and Andalucía, and is a Daily Telegraph Spain expert. She has also contributed to Lonely Planet India, South India, Thailand, Thailand’s Islands & Beaches, Southeast Asia on a Shoestring and Great Britain, and written Pocket Phuket. Find Isabella on Twitter and Instagram @isabellamnoble. Isabella also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide sections.

Michael Benanav Tamil Nadu Michael is a veteran traveller, writer and photographer who loves ex- ploring places far from beaten tourist trails. He’s written three non-fiction books, including Men Of Salt: Crossing the Sahara on the Caravan of White Gold – the true story of a 1000-mile journey with one of the world’s last working camel car- avans – and Himalaya Bound: One Family’s Quest to Save Their Animals & an Ancient Way of Life, which follows a tribe of nomadic water buffalo herders into the Indian Himalaya. He also founded Traditional Cultures Project, which documents endangered cultures around the world. When not off travelling, he can often be found hiking in the hills behind his home in northern New Mexico. To see some of his work, visit www.michaelbenanav.com.

Paul Harding Goa As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and off beat places, islands and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Belize, Vanuatu, Iran, Indonesia, New Zealand, Iceland, Finland, Philippines and – his home patch – Australia. He’s on twitter @phtravel and at paulharding.contently.com.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 10th edition – October 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78701 373 5 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.