Schmidt / McDonald Ranch House Historical Background Family Histories

Trinity Site’s Schmidt / McDonald Ranch House Prior to World War II, the Site area with its two On the west side of the house is an ice house and cellar McDonald brothers ranch houses was obscure along with an underground cistern that stored rain water ranch land noted mainly for being part of the Jornada coming off the tin roof. Gutters collected the water and Del Muerto. After the , often called the piped it through a box of carbon particles before draining world’s best kept secret, exploded the world’s first atomic into the cistern. Also on the west is the tower for a wind here on July 16, 1945 Trinity Site became synonymous with generator the McDonalds installed to charge batteries they the birth of the Atomic Age. stored in the cellar. The wiring for lights is still in the house. In addition to Ground Zero, the area includes both the To the east is a large, divided water storage tank and a George and Dave McDonald ranch houses. The Chicago Aeromotor windmill. The scientists and support core to the bomb was assembled at George’s house and the people used the north tank as a swimming pool during the Dave McDonald ranch served as base camp for the scien- long hot summer of 1945. South of the windmill are the tists, technicians and support personnel. remains of a bunkhouse and a barn which was part garage. When Maj. Gen. Niles Fulwyler took command of Further to the east are corrals and holding pens. These White Sands in 1982, he visited the National Historic Land- corrals were originally built by the Schmidts so they were mark and found the houses coming apart. He immediately designed to accommodate both cattle and sheep. The build- initiated efforts to reverse the deterioration. Using White ings and fixtures east of the house have been stabilized to Sands Missile Range resources the house was quickly stabi- prevent further deterioration. lized. He then arranged a partnership with the Department The McDonald family was forced to leave the ranch of Energy and the to see about restor- at the beginning of 1942 when the Alamogordo Bombing ing George’s house. In the end, the Department of Energy Range was established for training World War II bombing and U.S. Army pro- crews. The house vided funds for the stood empty until the Park Service experts Manhattan Proj- to do a restoration. ect arrived in early The work was done 1945. At the ranch during 1984. All house they built a efforts were directed ramp from the gate at making the house onto the front porch appear as it did on which was used for July 12 and 13, 1945. moving equipment The George and crates into the McDonald ranch was house. A support originally established frame was built at by the Schmidt fam- the gate to be used in ily. The Schmidt’s unloading trucks but, first house was a mile to the west. When it burned down, according to scientists who visited later, was never used. Franz Schmidt had the current house built in 1913. This is The northeast room, the Schmidt’s master bedroom, why the house is often referred to as the Schmidt/McDon- was designated the assembly room. Work benches and ald home. tables were installed. Scientists wanted the room to act as a The home site encompasses about three acres and “clean room” so the windows were sealed with plastic and consists of the house and various outbuildings. The house the cracks and corners in the room were taped over. Before originally consisted of just four rooms but every room had the restoration, small patches of tape and plastic were still an outside door just in case of another fire. Sometime in the present in the room. 1930 the McDonalds added the stone addition on the north. The core was composed of the initiator, made of polo- This was a bedroom and a bathroom complete with a tub nium and beryllium, the two plutonium hemispheres and and toilet. They drained into a cesspool beside the house. a heavy plug of uranium. After assembly it was taken to The 1,750-square-foot house is built of adobe which was Ground Zero where it was placed in the bomb assembly. stuccoed on the outside and plastered on the inside. The explosion did not significantly damage the house. For restoration of the house, much of the stucco had to Most of the windows were blown out, but the main struc- be replaced. A photo of a soldier on the porch in July 1945 ture was intact. Decades of rain water dripping through clearly shows a small section of stucco missing. Since the holes in the roof did much more damage. The barn did not restoration was to bring the house to what it looked like in do as well. The roof was bowed inward and some of the tin July 1945 that stucco was left off the adobe bricks. roofing was blown away. The roof has since collapsed. Historic American Engineering Record (HAER) Drawings 1983

Schmidt / McDonald Ranch House

Historical Background Family Letters Article from Albuquerque Journal Magazine 1987

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Photo courtesy 01 U.S. Army While Sands Missile Rangr3 er bedroom, as Frances Schmidt remem- 400-foot- steel tower to a target below. The blast was born in July and was a small baby when we bers it now, 70 years later, was on the EfeTi out the house's windows, but the low stone wall moved in — it would have (been) in the fall. Mama northwest corner of the house and was around the house withstood the shock wave. The and I walked behind the wagon picking Blackeye painted b:ue. Her daddy had hired an "-U.S. Army had allocated $256,000 to the National S sys (sic), fall flowers .... We had flowers in the unfortunate man named Mike Walsh to Park Service to restore The house and open it once a yard, zinnias, all along the south wall that was my paint all the rooms in the house. He had year as a tour_iltAttraction. Frances jus job to water .... " - painted tha liviag room peach or tan; she --arti:Tbe-ffe house Wlie-i•e— sh e had grown up. Frances' father, Franz Schmidt, was born in can't recall exactly which. The ceilings So this year, Frances and her daughter, Rosemary Rhein, Prussia (now Germany) in 1853. He emi: were painted cream and separated from the wall Hall, finally wrote to officials at White Sands with grated to the United States, passing through Ellis hue by a sten scroll border. Walsh, who the untold story of the McDonald Ranch. "My Island when he was 17. While working for mer- suffered from tuberculosis, had moved from Chica- mother is so proud you cared enough to preserve chants in New York City, he was assigned to a go to New Mexico for his health, and Franz Schmidt and restore her home," Ms. Hall wrote on Frances' branch office in Santa Fe in the days when New had taken him in. behalf. "I don't know if the name can be changed, Mexico was still a territory. The young, enterPris- Next to Franees' room was the bedroom where her but in reality ... it should be called the Schmidt ing Schmidt befriended Indians and sheepherders parents, Franz and Esther Schmidt, slept. It was Ranch." and decided to quit the mercantile trade. He applied pale green. It was the room where Frances' younger White Sands has yet to decide whether to rename for citizenship in 1894 and moved south to herd his brother, Thomas, and baby sister, Margaret, usually the ranch, said James Eckles, public affairs official own sheep and cattle, In 1906, he married Esther slept too because the boy was sickly and the girl was for the missile range. County homesteading docu- Holmes, an 18-year-old farm girl from Pearsall, just an infant. ments and surviving members of the McDonald Texas, and settled on the desert flats southwest of The Schmidts' northeast bedroom — a children's family, however, have substantiated the Schmidts' the town of San Marcial, where Frances was born haven from i'evers and bad dreams — was also the story. The Schmidts may yet occupy an intriguing, two years later. room where, 25 years after the family heel moved albeit small, footnote to atomic history. The Schmidts' first house burned down in 1912. out, scientist assembled the core of the world's The family moved into its barn, which was used first atomic bomb on a hot Friday the 13th during mainly for sheep shearing and where Frances had the summer of 1945. By then, the Schmidts' home in AS A GIRL, Frances Schr hlt wandered the played on the wool sacks. They added a fireplace for the Jornada del Muerto desert of central New cooking and lived there while an old Norwegian Mexico was known as the McDonald Ranch. stonemason and drifter named John Finago — Frances isn't sure of the spelling of his name — built them a new home. Franz Schmidt had found "Old Zola" weadtring the Streetz of Albuquerque and FRANCES SCHMIDT WAS living in Florida. when taken him in out of the cold. Part of the barn was a she read in the newspaper that an atomic bomb had garage, grease pit and lodging for Mike Walsh, the been tested somewhere in New Mexico near dawn consumptive painter from Chicago, who also main- on July 16, 1945. The date was doubly significant for tained the family Dodge. Frances. Her mother, Esther Schmidt, had been Oid John the mason built the Schmidts a house of born on July 16, 1888. Esther didn't think much pebble dash (cement over adobe) walls on the about where the bomb had exploded. But Frances outside, smooth plaster inside. He attached a tin did. roof to the adobe with 18-inch bolts to anchor it "The. re thc:;:gtq: .0.yr,t it wb-r• th.-y toil us against the wind. A charcoal filter on the north side where it went off,- said Frances, who still lives in 7,17'72'7:r from the roof on Florida and turns 79 in November, "I thouneht, there its way to a storage cistern. There was a well, a isn't a house left standing out there except our pump, a bivalve tank for watering the garden and house, because all the other houses were the regular the sheep trough and a Chicago Aermotor windmill Mexican adobe type. I just knew the only thing left where Esther hung meat, wrapped in a sheet, safe standing was that house Daddy built, because it had from animals. Later she stored the meat in an ice a concrete foundation and tin roof." house and cellar joined to the main house by a The Schmidts had quit New Mexico for Florida in breezeway. During the winter, she cut ice chunks 1920. Between then and when the bomb exploded, from adjoining water tanks. A potbellied stove with the house had changed hands three times. The last an Eisenglass door and chrome footrail warmed the; set of hands were those of the U.S. government, living room. A row of young cottonwood trees which had appropriated 51,500 acres of desert shaded the front of the house. Old John surrounded ranchland for its Trinity Site at the Alamogordo the house with a low stone wall. He constructed a Gunnery and Bombing Range (renamed the White concrete dipping vat for disinfecting sheep at the Sands Missile Range in 1958). The bomb, tested original homestead site, a full and unoffensive mile there as part of the top-secret Manhattan Project from the new home. Altogether, the house and its rried out in Chicago and Los Alamos, was the various outbuildings occupied about three acres. ,Aarotmpe for the Little Boy_and bombs In 1914, two years after New Mexico became a dropped Aug. 6 and 9, 1945, respectiVely, on state, Schmidt filed a homesteading claim on 153 Hiroshima and , Japan. Franz, Esther and Frances Schmidt. acres with the Land Office at Las Crucr.s. Schmidt It was not until 1984, a year before the 40th also owned a second ranch just west of Mockingbird anniversary of The Bomb, however, that Frances Jornada del Muerto where Indians had ambushed Gap. His brother Fred operated this spread. It saw a network TV newsman broadcasting a story and burned wagon trains along this "Dead Man's included a former post office named after John P. from New Mexico in front of a house that looked Route." All that remained were charred wheel hubs, Murray, the man who built the small wooden familiar. The newscaster's name was Drinkwater, a strewn over the terrain. But it is the flowers that fill building and drilled a water well for his mine claim nice name for a man standing in the middle of the her enduring memories of New Mexico. thare. Old John built another rock house north of the desert. The house was about two miles southeast of "My father," she wrote Eckles, "had that house ranch, at Hansonburg Hills, where he was later Ground Zero, where the bomb was dropped from a built, I would say, the first part of 1913. My sister buried.

a A Florida family, the Schrriidh, claim to have built McDonald Ranch at the historic Trinity site and want recognition for the feat.

gIto TA 10117 / IA .401 1.'1— 3%, • •

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