HoROLOGICALTM TIMES March 2009

American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute .JI•••·el .JI•••·el

New Tool Catalog

For both the Watchmaker and the Jeweler

From A to Z, Abrasives to Winders, all in one H 328 color pages of Tools & Supplies for the Watchmaker & Jeweler. ~ The most comprehensvie in the Industry. Expanded sections on Watch >------.! Cleaning and Watch Testing Equipment. Spiral bound for easy viewing...... •· · ~ Catalog price is refundable on first order of $ 30. \.»' ., ~ z• t.~ CAT-T New Tool Catalog $ 10.- !H I ~ • ) lo--<1 New Assortment of Cleaning Swabs Clean dials, hands, and crystals with these efficient new swabs. Use the fine fil­ iment polyester Clean Tip swabs for heavy smudges. The two styles of Clean Foam swabs are ideal for lighter smudges and the final lint cleaning. Will ------not scotch delicate dials. 20 each of three types for 60 pieces total in a plastic storage box. 70mm overall length. Cleanroom quality. Refills available. CL-TX700 Cleaning Swab Assortment, 60 pc. $ 11.95

Busch Reinforced Shaft Twist Drills These sets cover sizes as small as .50mm. Available in both the standard tung­ sten vanadium tool steel or more durable high speed steel. Reinforced shafts are 2.35mm size and 45mm overall. The drill portion is l Omm long.

DRl 077/35 Twelve Piece Drill Set, .5 to 1.6mm $ 28.50 DRl 077/36 Twelve Piece Drill Set, .6 to 2.3mm 28.50 DR1203HS/35 12 pc. Drill Set, .5 to 1 .6mm, in HS Steel 59.50

G) New Bergeon Organizer, Special $ 100 off BERGEON Heavy duty organizer holds five new deluxe BG7013 dip oilers and five new ergonomic grip stainless steel screwdrivers, .8 to 2.5mm. Each tool can be rotated and individually positioned as you like. In the cen­ ter is a block of new dustless synthetic material for oiler cleaning and 5 oil cups with lids and polished wells. Made of metal and weighs a hefty 6 pounds, base measures 9 x 4 inches. Swiss. '>:J.o BG7011 New Oiler-Screwdriver Stand $!~special $ 439.

•JI•••·el .JI•••·el HoROLOGICAL~~ TIMES CoNTENTs VOLUME 33, NUMBER 3, MARCH 2009

Official Publication of the FEATURES American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Breitling B01 Takes Wing 6 Oscillating Weight Axle, By Jordan Ficklin 10 EDITORIAL & EXECUTIVE OFFICES American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute (AWCI) Preparing for Certification: Part 2, By Jerry Faier 16 701 Enterprise Drive Watch Battery News, By Ewell Hartman 18 Harrison, OH 45030 Toll Free 1-866-FOR-AWCI {367-2924) An Omega 286, By Dale LaDue 20 or (513) 367-9800 Fax: (513) 367-1414 Servicing , By David Carlson 26 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.awci.com Office Hours: COLUMNS Monday-Friday 8:00AM to 5:00 PM (EST) The Modern German Clock Movement, Part 79, By Mark Butterworth 8 Closed National Holidays Clockmaker's Checklist

Managing Editor & Advertising Manager Donna K. Baas DEPARTMENTS Associate Editor & Design Associate President's Message, By Joseph Juaire 2 Katherine J. Ortt Executive Director's Message, By James E. Lubic 3 Executive Director/Education & Technical Director Questions & Answers, By David A. Christianson 4 James E. Lubic, CMW21 Operations Director New Members 15 Thomas J. Pack, CPA Bulletin Board 25 Watchmaking Instructor/Certification Coordinator From the Workshop, By Jack Kurdzionak 30 Thomas D. Schomaker, CMW21 Clock Instructor Classified Advertising 36 Laurie Penman Advertisers' Index 40 Education Coordinator Nancy L. Wellmann AWCI Staff Directory 40 Membership Coordinator Sharon McManus EDUCATION Receptionist!Technical Support ETA Calibers Class- Alessandro Betti, Instructor 33 Daniela Ott IT Director AWCI Academy of Watchmaking Classes 34 Jim Meyer AWCI 21 51 Century Certification Exam Schedule 34 AWCI 21 st Century Certified Clockmakers Exam Support Classes 35 HOROLOGICAL TIMES ADVISORY COMMITTEE AWCI Correspondence Course in Clock Repair 39 Ron Iverson, CMC: Chairman Karel Ebenstreit, CMW Jordan Ficklin, CW21 SPECIAL INTEREST Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW AWCI-ELM Trust Donations 5 Robert D. Porter, CMW Manuel Yazijian, CMW21 AWCI Directors' E-mail Address Directory 11 AWCI Convention & Educational Symposium 24 Repmti'g and reprociJctioo is prcjli:Jiled v.1thout written pem1ssioo from the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute. Copyright Horological Association of Virginia Annual Convention 29 mxl9 by the American Watchmakers-Ciockmak Institute.

HOROLOGICAL TIMES(ISSNO 145-9546) is p!ilished monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45CID 1696. Subscrip­ tion price for the public is $137.00 per year ($8.50 per copy). Members~ is $70.00 wlich is included wilh arrual Wesol $137.00. Periodicals postage paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and add~ tional entries. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOOI­ COVER CAL TIMES, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 This month's cover features the Breitling B01 Movement Then and Now I recently received the following short story, by Mark Twain, from a former student. Upon reading this story, I was immediately struck by the timelessness of the message. Twain is recounting his frustration and angst during his repeated attempts to find a qualified watchmaker to attend to the needs of his beloved timepiece. To make matters worse the whole ordeal was precipitated by an overeager clerk who performs an un­ necessary adjustment on Twain's watch. Whether this particular story is based in fact or is a work of pure fiction is unknown, but any current professional watchmaker who has been in business for any length of time has heard a number of similar horror stories BOARD OF DIRECTORS from customers though few are as eloquently told as Mr. Twain's. The humor of this story is not lost on me, but I can only imagine the devastation that well qualified, OFFICERS Joseph Juaire, CW21: President professionally trained watchmakers must have been feeling when this was first pub­ [email protected] lished. To have someone as well-read and respected as Mark Twain publically berate Tamara Houk, CW21: 2nd Vice President the watchmaking profession would have been hard to stomach. thouk@ awci.com Douglas Thompson, CW21: Secretary Then and now, it takes some measure of diligence for consumers to find qualified dthompson@ awci.com professionals to perform needed service on any of their treasured possessions. I am Jack Kurdzionak, CW21: Treasurer thankful that consumers today have many more resources to help them make these [email protected] vital decisions. The AWCI is certainly a valuable resource for consumers seeking pro­ fessional watchmakers and clockmakers. If Mark Twain would have encountered a DIRECTORS CW21 on his first visit to the jewelry store, he would have had one less story to tell but Michael Gainey, CC21 [email protected] his watch would have continued to amaze him with its flawless precision. Glenn D. Gardner, CMW [email protected] MY WATCH: An Instructive Little Tale Roland (Ron) Iverson, CMC by Mark Twain riverson@ awci.com From Sketches New and Old, Copyright 1903, Samuel Clemens. Ernest Tope, CMW21 elope@ awci.com This text is placed in the Public Domain (June 1993, #16). (Written about 1870.) Manuel Yazijian, CMW21 myazijian@ awci.com My beautiful new watch had run eighteen months without losing or gaining, and with­ James K. Zimmerman, CMW, CMC, CMEW jzimmerman@ awci.com out breaking any part of its machinery or stopping. I had come to believe it infallible in its judgments about the time of day, and to consider its constitution and its anatomy Gene Bertram, CC: Affiliate Chapter Director gbertram@ awci.com imperishable. But at last, one night, I let it run down. I grieved about it as if it were a recognized messenger and forerunner of calamity. But by and by I cheered up, set the Herman Mayer, CW21: REG Director hmayer@ awci.com watch by guess, and commanded my bodings and superstitions to depart. Next day I stepped into the chief jeweler's to set it by the exact time, and the head of the establish­ Tamara Houk, CW21: lAB Director [email protected] ment took it out of my hand and proceeded to set it for me. Then he said, "She is four minutes slow- regulator wants pushing up." I tried to stop him- tried to make him IMMEDIATE PAST PRESIDENT understand that the watch kept perfect time. But no; all this human cabbage could see Dennis J. Warner, CW21 was that the watch was four minutes slow, and the regulator MUST be pushed up a [email protected] little; and so, while I danced around him in anguish, and implored him to let the watch FELLOW alone, he calmly and cruelly did the shameful deed. My watch began to gain. It gained American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute faster and faster day by day. Within the week it sickened to a raging fever, and its pulse Robert F. Bishop J.M. Huckabee went up to a hundred and fifty in the shade. At the end of two months it had left all the *James H. Broughton Gerald G. Jaeger timepieces of the town far in the rear, and was a fraction over thirteen days ahead of Fred S. Burckhardt *Benjamin Matz the almanac. It was away into November enjoying the snow, while the October leaves Alice B. Carpenter Robert A. Nelson David A. Christianson were still turning. It hurried up house rent, bills payable, and such things, in such a *Hamilton E. Pease George Daniels ruinous way that I could not abide it. I took it to the watchmaker to be regulated. He Archie B. Perkins Wes Door asked me if I had ever had it repaired. I said no, it had never needed any repairing. He Antoine Simonin *Henry B. Fried looked a look of vicious happiness and eagerly pried the watch open, and then put a William 0. Smith, Jr. *Josephine F. Hagans Milton C. Stevens small dice box into his eye and peered into its machinery. He said it wanted cleaning *Orville R. Hagans *Marvin E. Whitney and oiling, besides regulating - come in a week. After being cleaned and oiled, and Ewell D. Hartman "Deceased *Harold J. Herman Continued on page 19.

2 Horological Times March 2009 I would like to thank you for renewing your AWCI membership and for your continued support of AWCI.

This past October we sent the 2009 dues renewals to 2,565 members. So far 1,824 have paid. That is a 71% renewal rate. When we add in 86 new members and reinstated members from October 1st through the present and the 353 life members, we have a total member­ ship of 2,263. Of the 741 members who haven't renewed we know that 15 have passed away and 47 have notified us to cancel their membership. That leaves 679 members who we would like to see renew their membership.

The following AWCI members have been approved to run for the AWCI Board of Directors in 2009: Joseph Juaire, CW21 Mark Butterworth Tony Riggio, CMW21 Joseph Schrader, CMW21 Peter Whittle Damian DeBlis David Douglas, CW21 John Safranek

My space is limited here; however, next month Chief Examiner, Wes Grau will provide an update on the activities regarding certification. If you are a Rolex spare parts account holder and you plan to meet the requirements of becoming an AWCI CW21, I can't impress upon you enough the need of taking any classes you may want/need, and to register for your CW21 exam as soon as possible. Space and testing dates are limited. Don't wait until the last minute. If you have questions, don't hesitate to contact Nancy Wellmann at 866-367- 2924, ext. 303 or e-mail her at nwellmann@ awci.com. Much of the information you need is available at www.awci.com such as the Standards and Practices, tool list, and the schedule.

We have two new schools that have joined as AWCI REC Schools:

North American Institute of Swiss Watchmaking (Opening May 6, 2009) Richemont Technical Center 15100 Trinity Blvd. #300 Fort Worth, TX 76155 Phone: 817-785-2420 Fax: 817-785-2389 E-mail: stanley.mcmahan @richemont.com

NAWCC School of 514 Poplar St. Columbia, PA 17512 Phone: 717-684-8261 Fax: 717-684-0197 E-mail: [email protected]

Welcome and congratulations!

It's time to start planning your summer vacation around this year's AWCI Annual Conven­ tion and Educational Symposium, August 6 through August 9, 2009 in Providence, RI. We are in the process of planning a great Convention and Symposium again this year. Person­ ally I have never been to Rhode Island and I'm looking forward to the trip. I hear it is beautiful, and that there is something for everyone.

Also be sure to thank our advertisers when making purchases; they are a very important part of our trade. Question The Langendorf Watch Company was established in 1897, I am having trouble identifying this pocket watch. It looks making of a "good standard and high quality." like an A. Shield. I need a staff for it. Pacific (1895), Lonville (1928), Lanco (1928) and John Ingram TransPacific (1951) were trade names used by Langendorf Oklahoma City, OK in the U.S., along with their own name Langendorf.

Answer Finding spare parts for this movement is going to be quite Your pocket watch has a 17 ligne, jeweled lever move­ difficult. Some material houses might possibly have parts ment made by the Langendorf Watch Company of in their pre-1948 material system. You might also try some Langendorf, Switzerland. Your watch is illustrated in the of the antique and vintage movement dealers that adver­ C&E Marshall Co. Jewelers Supplies Catalogue #52 of tise in the Horological Times, before you make the staff 1925. yourself.

Although the movement was circa 1920s, material for it Send your questions to: was still available as late as 1948. By 1951 material for AWCI this movement was no longer listed in any of the material 701 Enterprise Drive dealers' catalogues. The Quick-Fit Swiss Material System Harrison, OH 45030 catalogue of 1948 (published by the Hammel Riglander E-mail: [email protected] Co.) lists your movement as a model 18/63. 0

4 Horological Times March 2009 AWCI-ELM Trust Donations

The Trustees of the AWCI Education, Library and Museum Charitable Trust would like to recognize the following people for their donations to the ELM Trust:

Brandon Angel Donald R. Harris Nick Anton Adrian Hendry, CW, CEWT Dick Barton Matthew Hritz, CW Zdzislaw Bartosz Dale E. Huntington, CMW Christopher Brant Jon Kerr John Bryant, CC21 Steve Yongouk Kim Homero G. Capetillo Robert L. Macomber, CMC Manuel Catarina Scott Matheu Central Illinois Watchmakers Association Rex B. Powers, Jr. Robert A. Comen John C. Schwartz Ben M. Daidone Daniel A. Spath, CMW Scott Damron Tiffany & Co. Walter Gooden Mark Tornello Harry J. Granzow, Ill Devon F. White Henrich Greipl Warren Witte Marol Hansen Marc C. Young

Bringing you all the best and the latest for luxury watch repair.

New! Bottle for New! FIXODROP Horia 8-Piece Double chamber Screwdriver Set and o-ring cap. Swiss made with Holds small parts heavy base. basket. 520.015 $99 New! Horia Movement 150.009 $65 Holder for Valjoux 7750 Swiss made precision. 590.7750 $360

P-125 Chronogrease Moebius An excellent braking lubricant for FIXODROP automatic barrels. 5 Grams. Swiss made Epilame 420.008 $49.95 prevents oil from spreading. lOOm!. New! Nylon Parts Cleaning Basket 420.8941 $99 Swiss made, 1" diameter, snaps together. 420.600 $8.95 Cas·~Co. CAll 1.800.487.0408 2550 CIVIC CENTER DR PO BOX 31167 FAX 1.800.487.5848 CINCINNATI OH 45231-0167 Shop our web site: www.casker.com

March 2009 Horological Times 5 Breitling's 801 Takes Wing

Ti

Breitling crowns its 125 years of passion for chronographs with the launch of its own high-performance movement-Caliber BOI, its first chrono­ graph "motor" designed and built entirely in-house. It is a logical evolu­ ;:;::, tion for a brand that has played a major role in developing the wrist chro­ nograph and is counted among the leading makers of this complication. To guarantee its long-term independence and ensure that it has complete ....~ ~w ~ control over quality, Breitling is launching its own mechanical chrono­ ~... - ~-~ graph movement. The BOI is directly in line with the philosophy the brand has been pursuing for 125 years. This new caliber has a column wheel, a vertical-trigger mechanism and a power reserve exceeding 70 • hours, which ensures that the movement has a more regular rate. ~

It was designed to maximize functionality and safety when in use. Breitling 0~~ also gave it some assertively innovative features intended to increase its ~y ease of manufacture and use, including a patented mechanism for auto­ centering the reset hammers and an exclusive index regulator system ~ that allows the watch's timing to be quickly customized to the wearer. 0 The BOI 's intelligent architecture also offers significant advantages in ' ._a terms of maintenance.

With its entirely new architecture, Caliber BOI marks the apotheosis of Breitling's unceasing 125-year quest for quality and high performance. It also gains the company entry into the highly exclusive circle of watch­ ~ makers that have their own in-house mechanical chronograph movement.

6 Horological Times March 2009 Breitling Revolutionizes the Traditional Assembly of Movements Its original construction is not the only reason the BO 1 stands out. In making its first proprietary chronograph movement, Breitling also chose to follow unusual paths. Drawing its inspiration from an avant-garde concept used in other high-tech sectors, and adapting the idea to watch­ making, the company developed a formula for an indus­ trial production line that is revolutionizing the traditional assembly of movements.

Each movement is tracked individually by highly sophis­ ticated software that automatically sends it to the appro­ priate station along a route where completely automated stations alternate with those requiring manual interven­ tion. All adjustment stages are also incorporated into this process, and as each BOl movement leaves the line it is ready for extremely rigorous testing by the COSC. This is how Breitling guarantees authentic reliability for its "in­ struments for professionals" on a large scale.

Visit www.breitling.com for more information. 0

Today•s Watch Shop must have a precision dry water resistant tester.

Vibrograf is the leading supplier of water resistant testers in the USA. We can recommend the correct model for you and your budget. Call today for a free consultation. Spheric

Models Available: SM8850-1 0 Bar SM8850-20 SM8850-30 SM8850-50 THE OFFICIAL VIBROGRAF SALES AND SERVICE FOR THE USA Recommended by Leading Watch Manufacturers New Features - Vacuum and pressure test. Dry water resistant Tester using Vacuum and Pressure Chamber accommodates larger diameter watches. test to 10 BAR. Multiple testing programs insure the Faster filling time and more testing programs. highest accuracy. Tests 70mm diameter watches. Accommodates stiff watch bracelets. Interface USB for PC or RS232 for printer. Automatic motorized set up and printer interface. Easy to operate. VIBROGRAF USA CORP. 504 Cherry Lane- Floral Park, N.Y. 11001-1613 ·Phone: (516) 437-8700 ·Fax: (516) 437-8708 Visit VibrografUSA.com

March 2009 Horological Times 7 The Modern German Clock Movement Part 79 Clockmaker's Checklist

I have always believed that clock repair like many other to share his materials for documenting the job start endeavors is much more likely to be successful if a sys­ to finish. They also have a very nice website at tematic approach is employed. Some might argue that any www.clockmakersgallery.com and it could give ideas for plan is better than no plan at all. Having a systematic ap­ those wishing to build a site or see one that is successful. proach is even more important if there is a repair facility The checklist includes a pre-service survey, pre-assem­ with more than one person involved. Auto repair shops bly, and post-assembly check off. Note that time is set have used the checklist approach for years and the owner's aside at the beginning and ending of each day to check manual for luxury vehicles such as Lexus and Mercedes the timing, and regulating the clock. This cuts down on show the recommended checklist for periodic mainte­ the total shop time for the piece by turning the day into nance. In addition, having such a list to show the owner two cycles instead of one. The testing procedure not only conveys a feeling of what is done for the money spent as covers the movement testing but also includes case in­ well as an excellent sales tool when presenting the job spection. It is important that the case be structurally sound estimate. It tends to give the owner the confidence the job when the clock is returned to the customer. It is very em­ is in the hands of an experienced professional. barrassing to have the clock fall off the wall due to an insecure mounting bracket or have the door or bezel fall Fellow AWCI member, Chuck Christianson of the off the clock. Communication with the customer and edu­ Clockmaker's Gallery in Eugene, Oregon was kind enough cation of the customer are vital. This is especially true of

Testing Procedure :

1. Upon completion of all repairs and paperwork, test 4. After 7-day run (for 8-day ) rack - fully wind - indicate the date test run starts A) Check fmal check out by clockmaker

2. Each morning (before new job) B) Check "X" tag and fully wind for quality A) Check all rates and regulate control

B) Check all strike and chimes, moonphases, C) Check final inspection of: calendars, etc. Case Hinges C) Make necessary corrections before starting new Anything that might be a problem for the customer jobs. (Unless adjustments are extensive and the clock­ Spurs if needed maker prefers to complete check out.) Paperwork For cable drive allow to run down 3. End of day A) Check all rates and regulate

8 Horological Times March 2009 Clockmaker's Checklist

Pre-Service Survey Post Assembly 1. Review service order 1. Oiling 2. Survey case needs 2. (clearances, crutch/) 3. Survey movement carefully to confirm problems, 3. Strike @12:00 and 6:00 (check 1.4 hour trip) and any additional needs not indicated by 4. Endshake (check all levers and wheels) estimator. 5. Hands (check all clearances and alignment); hour 4. Escapement and wheels hand secure and clear of minute hand 5. Mainwheels and barrels 6. Check all screws (all proper and match) and nuts 6. Ratchets and clicks for tightness 7. Note wear (bushings and barrels) 7. Check case for any loose components/wood or ormallou. Check hanger integrity and case Pre-Assembly (wobble) stability 1. Check general movement hygiene 8. Use hand-held mirror to check proper crutch/ (fingerprints, etc.) leader clearance 2. Pivots (polished) 9. Loose regulating nuts; loose nuts affecting rates 3. Wheels- True, Pinions (lantern) safe 10. Set in dial reg. in middle before coarse regulation 4. Ratchets secure and safe - need key fitted (arbors equal) 5. Gong or rods clean from dirt or rust 6. Hammer pads (replace)

spring wound pieces. In some instances, elderly folks are Each repairer can adapt these documents to one's own simply not able to properly or completely wind the clock circumstances, but we can thank Chuck for providing us with an ordinary key. One with oversized winding wings with some excellent tools to guide us. may be required, or someone may need to wind the clock for the person. Final thought: "One of the secrets in life is to make step­ ping stones out of stumbling blocks. "-Jack Penn. 0

We specialize in dials, , weight shells, weights and movements ~ ~~be Over 8000 sq. ft. of Hermie, Urges and Kieninger Parts b~.;:, ~15 Visit our website: www.clocksunlimitedonline.com ~qe:~.o~ 0 v Phone {269) 792-9607 Fax (269) 792-9612 ~~,~~

March 2009 Horological Times 9 Oscillating Weight Axle

Jordan Ficklin, CW21

I often encounter problems with automatic axles on Rolex tight attachment of the axle to the oscillating weight. These watches where a previous repair has resulted in the axle tools are made from very hard steel and well suited to the rivet coming loose. That is why I would like to explain job. If you do not have access to genuine Rolex tools the proper method for replacing the automatic axle on these there are a number of suppliers who have made available watches. generic versions of this tool. As you can see from the assortment pictured (Figure 1), they are not "one size fits The steel used in these axles is extremely hard and the all." Make sure you have the right punch for your caliber. diameter of the rivet is large enough that it is quite diffi­ The generic tools may need to be hardened or they will be cult to form a good rivet using traditional methods similar useless after several axles; the punch should be hardened to those used on a balance staff. Although I have seen and tempered to a straw color. many who have tried. The first step is to remove the old axle from the oscillat­ Because traditional methods fail to produce a good rivet, ing weight. This axle can be punched out. For calibers Rolex has developed special riveting tools to install these axles. These tools produce a "castle-shaped" rivet with alternating teeth (or tabs) forming the riveted surface. The shape of this tool (Figure 2) cuts the riveting surface and forces the metal out and down at the same time, forming a

Figure 1 Figure 2

10 Horological Times March 2009 AWCI Directors' E-mail Address Directory

Director AWCI E-mail Address Joseph Juaire: President jjuaire@ awci.com Tamara Houk: Vice President [email protected] Douglas Thompson: Secretary dthompson@ awci.com Jack Kurdzionak: Treasurer [email protected] Michael Gainey [email protected] Glenn D. Gardner ggardner@ awci.com Figure 3 Roland {Ron) Iverson riverson@ awci .com Ernest Tope etope@ awci.com 1530, 3035 and 3135 no special tools are needed. Using Manuel Yazijian [email protected] your staking set, locate the hole in the base, which is just James Zimmerman [email protected] smaller than the upper surface of the axle (Figure 4), and center it with the centering punch (Figure 3). Choose a Gene Bertram: Affiliate Chapter Director [email protected] domed punch with a hole just larger than the bearing Herman Mayer: REG Director [email protected] Tamara Houk: lAB Director thouk@ awci.com

~ 706 S. Hill St., #580 Tel: (213} 622-1687 Los Angeles, CA 90014 SMITH SUPPLY HOUSE Fax: (213) 488-0922 LOS ANGELES Watch Materials, Supplies & Tools Watch Battery Distributor WINDERS WE HAVE MAINSPRING WINDERS TO FIT EACH OF THE FOLLOWING CALIBRES 1400 series 2130/2135series 1530 series 2230/2235 series 2030/2035 series 3035/3135 series

@$59.75 each

SMITH SUPPLY HOUSE IS NOT AFFILIATED WITH OR SPONSORED BY ROLEX WATCH U.S.A. THE ROLEX WARRANTY DOES NOT APPLY TO GENERIC REPLACEMENT PARTS SUPLIED BY SMITH SUPPLY HOUSE. YOUR SUPPLIER OF SPARE PARTS FOR ALL BRANDS OF I VISA I MECHANICAL AND QUARTZ WATCHES, CLOCKS AND ALARMS CALL TOLL FREE {800) 23-SMITH ~ VISIT OUR WEB SITES www.smithsupplyhouse.com & www.watchpartonline.com

March 2009 Horological Times 11 surface of the axle (Figure 4). Place the weight over the available for removing these axles. Place the stump in hole (top side down) and with the punch with a hole tap the staking set. The punch fits over the axle and pushes out the axle (Figure 5). The flat surface will either im­ down on the flat portion. The axle implodes down and in, plode on itself (crack and break) allowing the axle to come pulling the rivet in away from the weight and allowing it out without damaging the weight, or mushroom in and to come out without any damage to the weight. Be care­ down (Figure 7). ful not to hammer too hard. If the punch contacts the weight, it will deform the hole (Figure 6). Axles for ladies' calibers 2130 and 2230 are made from a different material, and a special stump and stake are

~;· ~~--:' ~ ~~- - .:. li-

_ _ ~r1 ~~ Figure 7 Figure 4. Courtesy of Rolex, USA and used with permission.

Figure 5. Courtesy of Rolex, USA and used with permission.

Figure 6. Courtesy of Rolex, USA and used with permission. Figure 8

12 Horological Times March 2009 Once the old axle is removed make sure that the weight is flat, and use a flat stump and stake to make sure there are no raised surfaces on the weight before fitting the new axle. The new axle should fit in place tightly enough that it does not fall out, even before forming the rivets. If the axle does not fit well inside the weight, you will not be able to form a tight rivet. You should replace the entire oscillating weight.

Figure 9

Figure 10

March 2009 Horological Times 13 When installing the new weight on calibers 1530, 3035, 3135, and 2030 use a flat polished stump. It is important that this stump be perfectly polished and clean (Figure 8). Any imperfections in the stump will be transferred to the top surface of the installed axle. The Rolex stump comes with a beautiful mirrored finish. Center the hole in the base for the stump, using the conical portion of the riveting stake (Figure 9). The stake is self-centering on the axle. Use a stake with a large hole in it to make sure the weight is pushed down on the axle and then rivet the axle in place with one good tap with the hammer on the castle-shaped riveting stake (Figure 10). Rotate the stake by one set of teeth, making sure the teeth fall into one of the riveted spots and give it one more tap. This second orientation will compensate for any imperfections in the manufacture of the stake and ensure that all the tabs are Figure 11 properly riveted down. The final result should be alter­ nating flat rivet spots and unriveted spots (Figure 11). The procedure is the same for ladies' calibers 2130 and 2230, except you should use the stump with a raised center por­ tion (Figure 13). For these calibers, the axle sits slightly below the top surface of the weight and a flat stump would allow the weight to flex and certainly damage it.

To check that the rivet is securely formed, you should grip the axle on the flats for the pinion with a set of paral­ lel pliers and apply firm pressure (Figure 12). The pliers should only contact the flats for the pinion. Gripping any other portion will damage the bearing surfaces. Try to rotate the weight in your fingers. The axle should rotate in the jaws of the pliers and not turn in the weight. Clean the weight and install it in the watch. Don't forget to double-check the endshakes with the new axle installed.

About the Author Figure 12 Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 graduated from the Lititz Watch Technicum in August 2006. He currently works for Beauchamp Jewelers in Albuquerque, NM. He is an active participant in many on-line watch related and watch­ making forums as well as the principal contributor to watchmakingblog.com 0

Figure 13

14 Horological Times March 2009 Colorado New York Virginia Wyatt, Jerald K.-Littleton, CO* Jimenez, Michael W.-Nunda, NY* Oswalt, David-Gordonsville, VA* O'Sullivan, John-New York, NY Florida Washington Ramirez, Antonio-Miami, FL* Pennsylvania Baldwin, John-Seattle, WA* Behney, Jason B.-Lebanon, PA* Meginnes, Wayne D.-Port Townsend, WA Massachusetts Salomon, Erich E. 11-AIIentown, PA* Lokshina, Klavdiya-Newton, MA Rhode Island *AWCI welcomes back these individu­ Missouri Saltzman, Evan-Cranston, Rl als who have chosen to re-instate their Banning, Jim-Springfield, MO membership. Texas 0 New Jersey Porter, Dale C.-Fort Worth , TX Almaier, John-Sicklerville, NJ* Thomas, Johnson-Garland, TX Tran, Vu-Rowlett, TX

AWCI Member Websites • Have you always wanted a website for your business, or are you unhappy with your current website?

• Do you feel that your business needs more exposure to your customers?

• Do you want a website, but don't know where to start, and assume it would be a costly venture?

• Do you just not have the time to mess with it?

Go to: awci.companysitecreator.com

AWCI and Companysitecreator have worked together to offer an opportunity to all mem­ bers!

It literally takes just a few minutes to build your new site in 5 simple steps from start to finish.

Two packages are offered ($8.95 per month or $18.95 per month), and you are able to see your site before you decide to purchase.

March 2009 Horological Times 15 Preparing for Certification: Part 2

Because of some recent items, I want to delay the discus­ A watch was scored and found to contain debris that was sions about how to prepare for the clockmakers new cer­ not removed from the case. The argument was that it didn't tification program until next month. There have been some hurt the resultant timing. Could this debris have eventu­ points about the 21st Century Certification that have come ally fallen into the mechanics? Probably! The comment: to light as a result of what is now happening with some of "I have never found such an insignificant problem as long the appeals that have been processed by the BOE. As all as the watch was time-able." Think again! This is a test of of you should know, you have the right to submit an ap­ your skill to maintain the highest quality standards pos­ peal for any section for which you did not receive a mini­ sible-it's a test to see if you can hold that detail. Yes, we mum successful score. In the case of the watch examina­ know some things can get through any competent tion, you may be allowed to retake any 2 of the 5 sections workman's hands but this is a test to see if you can hold that did not achieve minimum scores, and 3 out of the 10 that level of perfection on three watches over a four-day sections for the clock examination. You see, all of us re­ period. Surely a good worker, given the opportunity to sponsible for development of these products are only too focus on one watch a day, can pay attention to that detail? well aware of problems with test jitters, bad days, and So the watch ran, but would it hold up under warranty time allotments. So we wanted to make sure we could without coming back? We can't take the time to try every define those who may not have scored well but could re­ watch or clock out for a year to see if it passes muster. If ally do the work at the levels we are asking, from those all details are attended to, this really should be fine for the who just can't or are just not up to these standards. In the several months that it takes to score the products. When a case of the clock examination, that minimum is a score of manufacturer gets through making a clock or a watch, they 4.9 (70%) out of a possible 7. In the case of the watch may test it for a short time but when it's shipped (think of program, it is 5 (71.4%) out of a possible 7. Read the how much knocking around it gets just in shipping) it must respective S&Ps for more information on these topics. run right away. How long does a product sit on the shelf before it's sold and then is expected to run immediately? What these examinations are all about is showing a re­ view board of your peers (the sssessors for the Board of Another individual handed in a balance staff that was loose Examiners) that you have all the necessary skills and from the balance. He couldn't understand why it came craftsmanship that is expected of any certified person in loose. It seemed tight when he handed it in for scoring. our trade. No one is able to produce perfection every day, Our scorers are bench practitioners just like you. They day in and day out, but the examination process is a spe­ know that things can happen even to the best workers, but cial one where you must show that perfection at least once, if they check a staff and it's loose from the balance, whether to this review panel. It is recent examples of written ap­ it seemed OK to you or not, would it perform in the watch peals that have really come to trouble me. In reviewing as required? Not likely! Remember, all the assessors have these appeals, several candidates have submitted their re­ had to pass the same product testing. They know the test sumes as support for why the BOE should overlook some jitters, they know the examination stresses. They don't of their work and just go ahead and pass them on. Let me want to knock you out; they want to see you succeed! give you several instances. They know how important these programs are, not only

16 Horological Times March 2009 to you but the entire industry. BUT, you have to give them long you have been pounding horological products; show a reason to say this is acceptable. This isn't horseshoes. us how careful, tidy, exacting and professional you can Remember there are 7 points of variation. If you fall be­ be. When the market is tough, the best marketing you can low 5, you haven't given them much to work with. Is that do is to reassure your client that you are capable of doing their fault? Is this a fault-finding assessment? NO! It's a the best work, and then back it up. When the watch or performance examination that gives you a chance to show­ clock performs without the customer having to come in case your abilities. for an "adjustment," they usually remember that over the price they paid! That has been my experience. Remem­ One person knocked off the edges of the screws on the ber, these examinations aren't about breaking backs; they mainplate of the movement. Did they stop the movement? are about demonstrating quality in our profession. With No. Did it cause a timing problem? No. It just made it 50 years of experience, I expect perfection on every point. next to impossible for the next henchman to reclean the Just because it ticks, doesn't make it well done! A pendu­ product! In hunting circles, we call that unsportsmanlike lum vibrating +1- 0.1 mm or a watch balance that moves behavior. In our industry, I hate to tell you what we call it, +1- 180° is running, but NOT PROPERLY WITH ANY but ALL of you have had to deal with this. I speak from QUALITY! That's how your peers see it. Remember, we experience when I say none of us like it! So there is a are examining your skill level and quality. Help us help scoring section that knocks off points for just such prob­ you! Be detailed, exacting, careful and neat. lems. As an examinee, you can ask for a replacement screw without penalty if this happens, but don't hand it in with Next month, I will start with the first three sections of the "buggered up" screws and expect to pass. (Yes, we even Clockmakers Examination. I will be offering some help­ thought that it shouldn't cost a candidate points if a screw ful hints and suggestions that I use at my bench which gets eaten by the floor deities. That's why such an option may help you with the CC21 program and perhaps your was allowed.) bench efforts. Watchmakers, there will be similar infor­ mation from Wes Grau on the CW21 program as well. One mainspring performance came in with a round hole punched in a non-annealed end. The end of the spring Join us and your family of horological professionals in was still squared off and would have been impossible to improving your skills and efficiencies. The worst you can install in a barrel without a lot of tears. What should it do is become more efficient and that may mean more have been? If you have ever replaced a mainspring, you money. have seen the tear-shaped hole with the rounded end. 0 That's the type that installs easily. And what's with the no annealing? That's a sure invitation to a tom end. The com­ ment? "That's how I have always done it and no one has ever complained!" Well, I saw your customer and I had to straighten the second wheel, straighten 4 teeth on it and replace 3 teeth in the barrel. Why? Was this a cheaper and better way to do something like this? I hope not!! That HERMLE • KIENINGER • URGOS doesn't work for me, or the S&P. Read it. That's why the H. HERR • REGULA committees spent the months doing all the work on the from Standards & Practices. 11Jutttrtuortb ~lodt,, 3Jnt. Remember, this is an examination.You are supposed to Why repair when you can replace? hand in the best possible work! Don't tell us you have 50 THE LARGEST MOVEMENT SUPPLY IN THE WORLD years of experience and hand in sloppy work. Hand in all FREE PRICE LIST that you are capable of doing. We want to know that you are truly a 21st Century professional, capable of perfect, high-quality work when the customer asks for it. Do you really possess those skills? Show us. Don't tell us how

March 2009 Horological Times 17 Watch Battery News

Ewell Hartman, CMW, FAWI

The current edition of the A WCI Battery Number System used in men's models. They have been assigned official is now being distributed to allAWCI members, to suppli­ AWCI numbers, so you may want to enter them on pages ers and to booksellers. It is the most comprehensive user­ 24-25 of your new booklet, as follows: reference for watch batteries that exists today. L54, 3 (voltage), 16.0 (metric diameter), The first three pages of the BNS booklet have important 1.2 (metric height), CR1612 (Panasonic) information for properly selecting replacement batteries. They explain the various number systems, their conver­ L56, 3 (voltage), 24.5 (metric diameter), sions to a preferred system, individual battery specifica­ 1.2 (metric height), CR2412 (Panasonic) tions, cross-references, selecting a battery by dimensions, and possible substitutions when a specific battery is not AWCI members are receiving one copy of the BNS book­ in stock or is not available. let as a membership benefit. Members may obtain addi­ tional copies from AWCI for $6.75 plus $2.50 postage There are two lithium batteries that were unintention­ and handling. Non-member price is $7.50 plus $2.50 post­ ally omitted. They are manufactured by Panasonic and age and handling. they are used in the Seiko perpetual-calendar models. The 0 CR1612 is used in women's models and the CR2412 is

American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute Battery Number System

www.awci.com

18 Horological Times March 2009 paid out two or three thousand for repairs. While I waited and President's Message looked on I presently recognized in this watchmaker an old Continued from page 2 acquaintance - a steamboat engineer of other days, and not a good engineer, either. He examined all the parts carefully, just as the other watchmakers had done, and then delivered his ver­ dict with the same confidence of manner. regulated, my watch slowed down to that degree that it ticked He said: "She makes too much steam - you want to hang the like a tolling bell. I began to be left by trains, I failed all ap­ monkey-wrench on the safety-valve!" pointments, I got to missing my dinner; my watch strung out I brained him on the spot, and had him buried at my own ex­ three days' grace to four and let me go to protest; I gradually pense. drifted back into yesterday, then day before, then into last week, My uncle William (now deceased, alas!) used to say that a good and by and by the comprehension came upon me that all soli­ horse was a good horse until it had run away once, and that a tary and alone I was lingering along in week before last, and good watch was a good watch until the repairers got a chance the world was out of sight. I seemed to detect in myself a sort at it. And he used to wonder what became of all the unsuccess­ of sneaking fellow-feeling for the mummy in the museum, and ful tinkers, and gunsmiths, and shoemakers, and engineers, and desire to swap news with him. I went to a watchmaker again. blacksmiths; but nobody could ever tell him. He took the watch all to pieces while I waited, and then said the 0 barrel was "swelled." He said he could reduce it in three days. After this the watch AVERAGED well, but nothing more. For half a day it would go like the very mischief, and keep up such a barking and wheezing and whooping and sneezing and snort­ ing, that I could not hear myself think for the disturbance; and as long as it held out there was not a watch in the land that stood any chance against it. But the rest of the day it would keep on slowing down and fooling along until all the clocks it had left behind caught up again. So at last, at the end of twenty­ four hours, it would trot up to the judges' stand all right and just in time. It would show a fair and square average, and no man could say it had done more or less than its duty. But a correct average is only a mild virtue in a watch, and I took this instrument to another watchmaker. He said the kingbolt was broken. I said I was glad it was nothing more serious. To tell the plain truth, I had no idea what the kingbolt was, but I did not choose to appear ignorant to a stranger. He repaired the kingbolt, but what the watch gained in one way it lost in an­ other. It would run awhile and then stop awhile, and then run Buy the Bergeon 6745-100 Bracelet awhile again, and so on, using its own discretion about the in­ Sizing Tool at regular price - $249 tervals. And every time it went off it kicked back like a musket. Get a Newall Cotter Pin Assortment I padded my breast for a few days, but finally took the watch to 36 bottles 180 pieces 0.90 mm ($26.95 value) another watchmaker. He picked it all to pieces, and turned the ruin over and over under his glass; and then he said there ap­ AT NO CHARGE! peared to be something the matter with the hair-trigger. He fixed Offer good while supplies last. it, and gave it a fresh start. It did well now, except that always at ten minutes to ten the hands would shut together like a pair of scissors, and from that time forth they would travel together. The oldest man in the world could not make head or tail of the time of day by such a watch, and so I went again to have the thing repaired. This person said that the crystal had got bent, and that the mainspring was not straight. He also remarked that part of the works needed half-soling. He made these things all right, and then my timepiece performed unexceptionably, save that now and then, after working along quietly for nearly eight hours, everything inside would let go all of a sudden and begin to buzz like a bee, and the hands would straightway begin to spin round and round so fast that their individuality was lost completely, and they simply seemed a delicate spider's web over the face of the watch. She would reel off the next twenty­ four hours in six or seven minutes, and then stop with a bang. I went with a heavy heart to one more watchmaker, and looked on while he took her to pieces. Then I prepared to cross-ques­ Eckcells tion him rigidly, for this thing was getting serious. The watch 379 Main St. Stoneham, MA 02180 had cost two hundred dollars originally, and I seemed to have 1-800-514-1270 [email protected] I VISA .I

March 2009 Horological Times 19 An Omega 286

Dale LaDue, CMW

When I first saw this once proud ex­ This article will focus on refinishing ample of the Omega Watch Company, the screw heads, which will cosmeti­ it had severe tool marks and was rusty. cally enhance the movement. Prior repairs, as well as humidity, had taken quite a toll on this movement. Figure 3 shows a screw that appears to be beyond refinishing. However, the The sweep pinion driving wheel with rust was confined to the top surface and the broken third wheel pivot in it was side of the screw head. Notice in Fig­ floating around inside the case. Every ure 4 the brightness of the threads, steel surface had some degree of rust there was hardly any rust on any of the on it as shown in Figures 1 and 2. screw threads in this movement. Fig­ Figure 3. An individual rusted screw head Amazingly, all of the pinions, pivots ures 4 and 5 show the screw held in and steel parts under the dial were un­ Rub Off® being inserted into a proper affected by the rust. Although tool size collet, which was gently tightened marks marred the individual plate sur­ on the threads. faces there is not much that can be done about them, especially in the average repair shop.

Figure 4. A screw held in Rub Off® being Figure 1. The sad looking movement with Figure 2. A closeup of rusty steel parts inserted into a collet. Notice the threads tool marks and rust are free of rust.

20 Horological Times March 2009 The setup and process I used to refin­ ish these screw heads was simple and efficient. The tailstock spindle was re­ moved and a brass disc with a post that is smaller than the tailstock bore was inserted in the fore end. Figure 6 illus­ trates the disc, post and tailstock. The disc supports the grinding and polish­ ing material. The tailstock (and disc) was gently brought to the spinning l..anlteh'b compressor system ha.ov a un.lque dual trigger oclion lhnt is capable or screw head with my right hand while spr11ying dry nltend air, as wcU as my left hand supported a ceramic slip PlastiCLEA N Soln.IIL Safely dlssolve dry flat against the disc (Figure 7). The oils' ond other cont.amlallnts (without dl$a$~cmhl~ · or lbe gear lraln), aU with lbe ceramic can be moved around while t'll!ie or a fool switch actJvattd Sy$1em lhalls remaining parallel to the screw head. qul~t enou~o~h for a retail CD'tiTODmenl. The coSt or cleaning one movement wllh the When the rust was ground away, the Zllaltcb compressor syiltem aVtriiJ!t'..~ anl3 head surface was flat with circular 10 cenL

Simply tbe Best Cleaning Figure 5. The screw is held gently in a Solution for Quartz Watc:b Movements collet. 13 n oz Aerosol Can $18.95 I qt Bulk Liquid $27.95

Figure 9. A 0.5-micron diamond lapping Figure 6. The disc and post fits loosely in filmstrip is used to polish out grinding the tailstock bore. marks.

March 2009 Horological Times 21 Figure 10. The spinning fiber wheel is presented to the screw head that is turn­ ing in the lathe.

The marred screw head slots were bev­ eled to eliminate and prevent future damage. The screw was placed in a bench block hole, which allowed the screw to rotate easily and not bind. I Figure 14. The beveling of the slot used a ceramic fiber stone that comes in square, rectangle, and round. The square is like pencil lead and is held in a 0.7 mm drafting pencil. The square measures 0.5 mm x 0.5 mm x 50 mm. The rectangle measures 1 mm x 4 mm x 100 mm. The round is 3 mm in di­ Figure 10. A final quick buff with a hard ameter x 50 mm. Figure 10 shows the fiber wheel charged with Fabuluster® screw slot edges being ground with the 800 grit pencil-type stone. Figure 12 shows the much larger rectangular slip Figure 15. The completed bevel accomplishing the same result. Figure 13 shows the 1200 grit pencil-type fin­ ishing the edge. If these photos were in color the 800 grit would be blue and the 1200 grit would be red. A square comer was pressed into the slot as the slot was filed creating a bevel on the slot edge. Figures 14 and 15 depict the Figure 11. Removing marred edges on the marred edges eliminated by the bevel. screw slot using a ceramic fiber stone. Figures 16 and 17 highlight the newly refinished surface and beveled edges. Figure 16. A newly refinished screw head This process was performed on each screw.

The ratchet wheel, crown wheel and crown wheel plate were "rayed" to re­ finish their appearance. Figure 18 shows the ratchet wheel cemented with shellac on a disc. The underside of the ratchet wheel was refinished first, then the wheel was turned over and refin­ Figure 12. A larger slip can be used. Figure 17. The beveled edge of the slot is ished. Figure 19 depicts a sanding disc highlighted in this photo. spun in a rotary tool as the crown wheel plate was turned in the lathe. Figure 20 shows the crown wheel being "rayed" by a rubber grit embedded -· wheel. Figure 21 highlights the effect on the crown wheel and its hold down plate, as well as a close view of the .. ,.. \ screw heads. Figure 22 shows the com­ ~~·., ':.1. - pleted movement. The cased move­ ni · ~- ment now back in service for another Figure 13. A closer look at the 1200 grit generation is shown in Figure 23. red fiber stone; the square corner is Figure 18. The ratchet wheel held in place pressed into the slot. with shellac on a cement brass

22 Horological Times March 2009 Figure 19. A sandpaper disc in a rotary tool was applied to the spinning crown wheel plate creating a "rayed" suiface.

Figure 22. The completed Omega 286 movement Figure 25. The non-functioning old plas­ tic gasket material was cut out using a boring tool.

The tool marks on the movement indi­ cated much removing and replacing of the bridges, especially the balance bridge. Apparently, the Breguet hair­ spring was replaced with a flat hair­ spring. It was bent upward to reach the Figure 20. In this instance a rubber grit regulating pins distorting the spring in wheel was used to create a slightly differ­ the process. The pins were replaced / ent pattern. with longer ones and the hairspring was properly shaped and trued.

The hairspring was also too strong for the , and consequently weight had to be added to the wheel. The balance wheel was a solid four­ Figure 23. A simply good-looking watch arm type. I was able to add bronze collars to opposing arms, bringing the vibrations to the proper rate. The col­ lars were made from pieces of bronze 400-day clock suspension spring wire. Figure 24 shows one of the bronze col­ lars in place on the arm of the balance.

The plastic back gasket material was deformed and nonfunctional. I re­ - moved it easily by turning the case .· Figure 24. Notice the bronze collar slowly in the lathe, and cutting it out with a small boring tool held in a tool · ~s ···L wrapped around the balance arm. I .,.~· . ' . """~\._. post (Figures 25 and 26). An a-ring Figure 21. A close look at the refinished gasket was then utilized for sealing the screw heads, crown wheel and cover plate back.

March 2009 Horological Times 23 readily available in the past. I replaced the crudely altered stem with a still available genuine one.

Personally, I cannot overlook damaged screws and am compelled to refinish them. This repair was an extreme ex­ ample, and the technique I used to re­ Figure 27. The poorly made or altered fmish the screw heads produced excel­ stem next to a genuine replacement lent results.

Source for Ceramic Fiber Stones: Product Name: I was able to replace the o-ring gasket Xebec®; Supplier: MSC- 1-800-645- in the original crown, and the case tube 7270 was replaced ensuring a positive seal. Drafting Pencil: Pentel® P207, 0. 7 mm Figure 27 shows unnecessarily poor 0 workmanship in fitting a stem to this Figure 26. The plastic material was em­ movement because the stem was bedded in a deep recess; an o-ring gasket was installed in its place.

24 Horological Times March 2009 ITEMS STILL NEEDED

New England Watch Co. Do you have information regarding this month's requests? Do Jacob Montgomery, West Manchester, OH, is look­ you need information about one of this month's responses? If so, send your information or requests to: Horological Times ing for information on this New England Watch Co. Bulletin Board; 701 Enterprise Drive; Harrison, OH 45030- movement pictured here. Can anyone identify the 1696; Toll-Free: 1-866-367-2924, ext. 307; Phone: (513) 367- caliber number and a source for a staff? 9800; Fax: (513) 367-1414; E-mail: [email protected]

...;r 0 ~ .- ,. . .:_; '- ' ~ ~ .

I

...:.. ~

-!ilill

PARTS MESSAGE BOARD

The American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Parts Message Board is available on line at www.awci.com Click on the Parts Forum in the Top Links box. Guests are free to browse our topics and posts but only vali­ dated AWCI members will be able to actively post messages and communicate with one for anyone repair clocks for another via private messaging. e, and a rva1uao1e addition to the brary of even the veteran. The purpose of this board is to aid our mem­ bers in finding watch parts, clock parts and tools. This board is not open to generic ad­ ONLY $11.95 vertising posts; therefore, web addresses plus $3 postage and handling. and e-mail addresses should not be included Purchase at our website: in public messages. www.clocksmagazine.com

March 2009 Horological Times 25 Servicing Clock Mainsprings

David J. Carlson

Invented five centuries ago, the clock mainspring enabled barrel mainspring caused overbanking of the escape wheel, the development of timepieces that are not dependent on which led to unacceptable run time variations. gravity for their going power. Functionally, a mainspring is a ribbon of steel that stores energy when it is wound on To clean a mainspring, use a solvent on fine steel wool to an arbor. Power is released as the spring unwinds. loosen the old lubrication and wipe with a paper towel. For lubrication, use a wheel bearing grease. The grease is An edgewise view of a section of a wound mainspring is best applied by using the thumb and forefinger, which shown in Figure 1. When a steel mainspring ribbon is first does a good job and you can pick up surface problems wound on an arbor, the steel stretches on the outer surface with touch that you can't see by inspection. and compresses on the inner surface as shown in Figure 1. When the mainspring is unwound it forms into a spiral. Substitution With extended use the unwound spiral may become so When an identical mainspring cannot be found, it is im­ small in diameter that the energy stored during winding is portant to know the effect of dimensional changes when insufficient to run the clock for its designed time and selecting a substitute mainspring. should be replaced. • Width and Thickness: The stiffness of a spring (its Lubrication ability to store power) is a function of the width and the An important service requirement is the proper cleaning cube of its thickness. If it is necessary to substitute a main­ and lubrication of a mainspring. The pressure between spring, it is preferable to select a change in width rather the spring windings is very high and inadequate lubrica­ than a change in thickness. tion can lead to severe changes in friction, which affects smooth winding and power letdown. An example of poor lubrication was found in a Hermie 350-201 movement . , ·-1·. I , ~ 14-- 'I I ~---- . - (Figure 2). The excess torque of the poorly lubricated time I . 'l ; ? 1 .. : --1-·-t--··--- - ·I' .. 12.-. . ~-~--1---:--·:-~-+- ; -.!.-=---1 ; f.. ~ J l : 1/ / Stretched Layer - -- ""PO-OR ORLI'ITL;E / 1,- r·-. L,U~CAlllO~ _ - --;, ./..; ~--- Neutral Layer - ..;--~·I ___ . - ~ - ;-'·j r l . ~--'---- / ,. l-- ' . . "'" .. '7" - j .. ,8 - ·- ...... _,_ --·_ ...... _ ~ Compressed Layer - y · I / --r ·· - & t_ -·--·-r "' 1 --r ...-1___ . · 8 , ) ..; P~O;PER ~ 61 · f - .· LUBRICATION _/ _ - / I I • I 1-r- -Tr-=----.1.--- 1 .I 4 .... - 'f--'- ··---~...!...... I I I I ..l..-.1 I I • - l_ L -- ' t..---1- o 1 2 3 4 5 2 Time Arbor Turns Figure 1. Section of a wound mainspring Figure 2. Lubrication problem

26 Horological Times March 2009 Figure 3. Arbor hook

Figure 5. Fusee

Barrel Hook • Length: The running time of a clock is dependent on the length of the mainspring. If the length L of the origi­ nal spring is reduced, the running time of the clock is re­ duced by the square root of the desired length divided by the new length. For example, if the length of the spring is reduced from 96 inch to 70 inch, the running time is re­ y duced by 1.2 times: (96170)ll2 = 1.2 Selecting a spring for a mainspring barrel is more critical than an open mainspring because it is constrained by the volume of the barrel. The ideal length L of the mainspring is defined by the thickness of the spring T, the winding arbor radius A, and the inside radius of the barrel B:

Figure 4. Barrel hook L = Pi (B 2 -N) (Pi= 3.1416) 2T

HERMLE * URGOS * KIENINGER * REGULA* H.HERR * RHYTHM PARTS* TOOLS* SUPPLIES Jlatk lortst ~mports \!'7 InC. 1·(800)824·0900 Replacement Movements & More!

Your Reliable Clock, Movement & Parts Source Since 1981 -Call for Free Price List - Visit Our Online Catalog: WWW.BLACKFORESTIMPORTS.COM l't'l<'fl:it.'J.;I

March 2009 Horological Times 27 If the thickness T is increased, the length L may not be filed and polished to complete the installation. Barrel sufficient to meet the necessary running time. hooks can be made on a watch lathe.

In clocks with mainspring barrels, the time and strike bar­ Some production barrels are made with a hook, which is rels and their mainsprings are oftentimes identical. 1 If the formed from the barrel. If there is a problem with this time barrel mainspring fails, the strike barrel may be sub­ type of hook, any bending can cause crystallization of the stituted. Selecting a mainspring for the strike train barrel brass and the hook will fail under power. It is better to is less critical than the time train barrel. make a new hook of the type shown in Figure 4.

Removing the Mainspring from a Timekeeping Accuracy of a Clock Clock Movement Using a Mainspring • Safety: The most important rule when working with Unlike a weight, which maintains constant torque, the mainsprings is safety. The stored power in a mainspring mainspring torque curve, Figure 2, decreases torque as can launch itself or adjacent parts with serious personal the mainspring unwinds. The variation in torque is trans­ consequences. Safety glasses are recommended. Wear mitted through the time train to the escapement. Under gloves when handling winders. these conditions the rate of the clock is dependent on the isochronism of the escapement. Isochronism is the prop­ • Open Mainspring: Wind the mainspring until it will erty of an escapement to maintain the same period of accept a mainspring clamp. Loop the clamp over the main­ oscillation, regardless of amplitude. To improve the time­ spring and let the power down and remove the mainspring. keeping, several systems were developed. Some of them are: Mainspring failures can result in the mainspring loops swelling out into its cabinet, making it difficult to remove • Fusee: A fusee drive is comprised of a mainspring the clock movement without causing damage. First try to barrel, which drives a fusee great wheel through a chain remove the movement. If it can't be removed without dam­ or cord, Figure 5. The fusee great wheel is shaped to be age, cut the loops with a metal shear and remove them the inverse of the mainspring drive, which acts like a vari­ individually. able power transmission. With a properly designed fusee, the system closely approaches the accuracy of a weight­ • Mainspring in a Barrel: Let the power down, remove driven clock. the barrel, and then the mainspring can be removed with a spring winder. There are several spring winders2 on the • Watch Escapement: Watch or "plat­ market. If the spring is removed manually, it can cause forms" have been used in high-quality clock movements. spiral distortion in the spring and may damage the barrel The most accurate platforms use a Breguet overcoil on hook hole end. If the spring is broken, manual removal the balance wheel hairspring, which makes the escape­ will be necessary. If the break is close to the outside end ment act like a linear oscillator with excellent isochronism of the spring, the spring can be salvaged by making a new performance. hole end. • Remontoire: Remontoire is a device whereby the • Repairing Mainspring Arbors and Barrels: The ar­ mainspring drives a small spring that is carefully controlled bor hook for a typical open mainspring is shown in Fig­ to operate over a very limited range of its torque curve. ure 3. The hook is a nail-like piece inserted in a hole in The small spring drives the time train. The escapement is the center of the arbor. The bottom is riveted and the top subject to less amplitude variation and timekeeping is is rounded and shaped with a slot to receive the main­ improved. spring. Many hooks do not have to be replaced but re­ quire opening the slot, which has been mashed down. Notes Mainspring barrel arbors are essentially the same. If a hook 1. Mark Butterworth, "The Modern German Clock is replaced it should be of minimum height required to Movement", Part 76, Horological Times, pp. 16-17, June accept the spring. Rounding and polishing the top of the 2008. hook will prevent distortions in the mainspring when it is forced down on the arbor hook during winding. A barrel 2. D. J. Carlson, "Working with Mainsprings", Horo­ and barrel hook is shown in Figure 4. The size is deter­ logical Times, pp. 34-39, May 1996. mined by the size of the barrel and the strength of the 0 spring. The barrel hook is riveted on the outer surface,

28 Horological Times March 2009 HOROLOGICAL ASSOCIATION OF VIRGINIA ANNUAL CONVENTION

WILLIAMSBURG MARRIOTT --- WILLIAMSBURG, VIRGINIA April 24, 25 and 26, 2009

President's Reception Clock and Watch Technical Sessions (Mark 8 utterwo rth and Thomas Schomaker) Annual Banquet Members Auction H.A.V. Annual Meeting J\IarkButteJworth Spouses' Program Thomas S'chomaker

For registration information, contact John Enloe (703) 425-1524 or E-mail: [email protected]

~ 2 WATCHcY ~ 0 JEWELI\Y WJR CHROnOS

0 $22.50- One Year Chronos Magarine 0 $19.50- One Year Watch & Jewelry 0 $42.00- Two Years I 0 $.35.00- Two Years 0 $60.00 -Three Years is published 6 times 0 $50.00 -Three Years Review is published I I Fm·eign subscribers add $21 per per year for the I Foreign subscribers add $26.50 per 10 times per year year. (U.S. Funds drawn from U.S. I year. (U.S. Funds drawn from U.S. and is the industry's bank only) connoisseur of I bank only) 0 Check or money order enclosed luxury timepieces. 0 Check or money order enclosed most-used publica- 0 Charge my Visa or Mastercard 0 Charge my Visa or Mastercard Each issue ptesents I cion-the only one Card No. Card No. in North America Exp. Date VCode the finest watches I Exp. Date VCode -- -- devoted to watches Signature and docks of today Signature and docks. Get the Phone as well as exploring Phone one convenient Name premier vintage Name Address Address source of industry collections. City State City Smte news features indud- Zip Country Zip Country ing eight annual Company Name I Company Name \ ' directory issues. Type of Business \ ...... Type of Business An Old Friend with Many Uses not worked on many quartz watches. Regardless of how At times we get so involved with new technology, new much care the watchmaker takes by keeping all tools prop­ tools, and new techniques that we tend to overlook some erly maintained and how much caution is exercised dur­ that have been with us for many years. One tool that comes ing the course of the repair, accidents will happen. For to mind is the very simple, chamois hand buff. The famil­ some reason, "Murphy's Law" about if something can go iar hand buff is made from an 11-inch long stick of flat wrong, it will, seems to apply in this case. Seldom will a wood with a strip of chamois leather glued to one flat side low cost, readily available coil or circuit ever get dam­ for about one half its length, and is customarily used aged by an errant screwdriver. The screwdriver damage for polishing, cleaning, and finishing metals and stones. always seems to happen whenever the watchmaker is Hand buffs are supplied in three widths: 6 mm (114 inch), working on a watch with a hard-to-find, expensive, or pos­ 12 mm (1/2 inch), and 22 mm (7/8 inch) and are available sibly unavailable electronic component. Again, the leather from your material supplier. hand buff can save a massive headache. Use a clean hand buff to protect delicate electronic components of the watch Regardless of whether you are servicing a very rare, vin­ by shielding them from a slipping screwdriver. If the tage Patek Philippe movement or a familiar Tag Heuer screwdriver slips the buff prevents any damage by limit­ quartz movement you will find a hand buff very helpful ing the side travel of the screwdriver and the clean, soft during the course of the repair. The appearance of un­ surface of the buff will not scratch the circuit or coil. painted watch hands may be improved by polishing them with a clean hand buff. After washing the hands with a Frequently, professional watchmakers see numerous mild soap and water solution, dry the hands and place watches damaged by poor battery replacement technique. them onto a clean button of pithwood, polished surface Most commonly seen is the finger or thumb press method up. Then gently polish the hands with the leather buff to of battery insertion. This consists of removing the suspect restore their original appearance. battery by using whatever tool is at hand, regardless of whether it is appropriate or not, selecting a battery that The watchmaker who has never had a screwdriver slip may be the correct size and type for the watch at hand, away from the head of a coil or circuit screw probably has

Fitting a battery Protect the coil with a buff stick

30 Horological Times March 2009 and arbor already inserted, onto a small clean plastic or wooden block that has been drilled to accept the lower pivot of the barrel arbor. Put the cover in place and gently press the cover home with a pair of clean buffs while moving the buffs around the edge of the cover so that it is evenly pressed in place. This method leaves no marks or fingerprints. Jack Kurdzionak

Difficult Job Made Easy Once in a while a cap jewel seems to be permanently bonded to its shock resistant setting. Regardless of how many types of cleaning solutions you use to attack these jewels, they just will not separate. The jewels are not in­ timidated by any ultrasonic, infrasonic, or mechanical watch cleaning device. They simply refuse to separate no matter how you try and if you attempt to strong arm them apart with tweezers and a screwdriver they retaliate by going missing.

One watchmaker has developed a simple method to win and then pushing it into the watch movement. For batter­ the battle with bonded jewels. He uses Berg eon collet clos­ ies that are easily inserted, the index finger seems to be ing device (Ref. 3007) that he seldom uses for its original the tool of first choice. The battery is pushed into place, purpose of closing hairspring collets. He finds it useful to and if the fingertip is small enough, only the cell and a gently grasp the parallel sides of a jewel setting while he small area of the circuit are covered with whatever oil and lifts the cap jewel safely away from its mate with a screw­ dirt are left by the telltale fingerprint. If the battery is a bit driver tip. Once the jewels have been parted they are stubborn and resists fitting to the movement then the thumb cleaned, the cap jewel polished with a hand buff as de­ is pressed into service. This usually gets the battery into scribed above, then properly oiled and fitted back into the place but does leave a large amount of physical evidence movement. of the operation on the cell, circuit and movement. Rather Jack Kurdzionak than use fingers, why not press the cell into place with a clean leather hand buff? It does no damage and does the job simply, efficiently, and safely.

Hand buffs do a masterful job cleaning all kinds of hard to remove schmutz from the flat side of cap jewels. After the usual cleaning process, any remaining contaminants can be cleaned from cap jewels by placing the cap jewel flat side down onto a clean piece of watch paper. Then gently move the cap jewel across the paper by pushing it with a clean leather buff. The jewel is polished clean and ready to install.

Try closing mainspring barrels with a pair of hand buffs. It is a simple and effective method of pressing a barrel cover onto a barrel. Place the barrel, with its mainspring

March 2009 Horological Times 31 Does this Sound Familiar these customers are willing to make a long drive or pack A front page article from Feb. 2, 2009 Wall Street Journal and ship their items, just to have us work for them. With featured a small industry, often overlooked by the public, this in mind we owe our customers the best service using but well known to its suppliers and practitioners. The ar­ the highest quality spare parts we can provide. If we rec­ ticle began by stating: "The recession is battering big ognize this opportunity, presented to us during these chal­ swaths of the U.S. economy, but it's given a new lease on lenging recessionary times, we can make it work to the life to a tiny repair industry, which has been shrinking for mutual advantage of our customers and ourselves. Our decades. Nationwide, repairers and their suppliers report customers will save money by having their quality time­ markedly higher revenues than a year ago, as newly fru­ pieces repaired to extend their useful life, rather than re­ gal Americans opt to repair their items rather than replace placing them and we will be able to earn a steady living them." wage by providing top quality repairs. Insure all of our futures by striving to maintain high standards for quality The article also went on to examine the reasons for the service and integrity so that our businesses will continue long decline of this craft as viewed through the eyes of growing long after our current economic downturn is a the people still working at the craft. Their perceptions distant memory. include: Jack Kurdzionak a. This business is dying. Even during the great de­ pression of the 1930s there were tens of thousands You Are Invited of people earning a living performing repairs. Do you have a solution to a watch or clock repair problem Now there are, perhaps, about seven thousand of that you want to share with our membership? Do you have us still employed. a question about a repair problem you would like to ask? b. None of our children are interested in taking up I invite you to participate in this column with your sug­ this profession. The starting salaries are too low. gestions, questions, and comments. It is easy. Just e-mail c. It takes years, rather than months to learn the trade. me at AWCI or write using the d. You need to spend tens of thousands of dollars to old standby known as the postal service. You can even purchase the new equipment the manufacturers fax me at 513-367-1414. say is needed to operate a successful repair shop. I will do my best to help you help the membership. By You might think that the WSJ article was about watch and sharing your questions and suggestions, all of our mem­ clock repair shops. It was not. Rather, it was all about bers can benefit from our combined knowledge and expe­ cobblers and the shoe repair industry, but it did strike a rience. The ideas, tools, techniques and products presented most familiar chord. Most of the comments noted above in this column are suggested by the author and contribut­ may be accurately applied to us watchmakers and clock­ ing members and are not endorsed by any manufacturer, makers who share several common business-related supplier, advertiser or AWCI itself. concerns with cobblers that include: 0 a. We work in a small industry. b. We are highly skilled at our respective crafts, earn the majority of our incomes at the repair bench, and seldom sell new products other than replace­ ment parts. c. We are most often self-employed operating our own small businesses. SUPPORT YOUR d. The public is generally unaware of our existence. LOCAL We can lament about the current state of the nation's economy and the past decline in our own business and AFFILIATE CHAPTER hope that we will survive, or we can view the current economy as a new opportunity for watchmakers and clock­ makers. All of us are aware that retail sales of new watches Visit www.awci .com and clocks have slowed in the past year. The public is to find a chapter near you relearning that many watches and clocks can be success­ fully repaired and they are willing to seek out and travel some distance to find a quality watchmaker or clockmaker. For information on forming a Customers are utilizing internet resources to locate us, and new chapter, call 866-367-2924

32 Horological Times March 2009 ETA Calibers

May 11-15, 2009 Alessandro Betti Instructor (ETA Swatch Group representative from Switzerland)

AWCI Training Center - Harrison, OH Course Fee: $725.00 (AWCI membership required)

Mr. Betti accepts 12 students; registration is on a first come, first serve basis

For information or to register for the class contact Nancy Wellmann - AWCJ Educational Coordinator E-mail: [email protected] (866) FOR-AWCJ (367-2924), Ext. 303 (513) 367-9800

~ ~ I ---- ..;:::;..-~

Payment processing tailored to your needs, a partnership with AWCI, and reduced rates just for members. And you thought your timepieces were reliable.

First National Merchant Solutions can provide your business with an affordable way to accept credit and debit payments, convert checks to instant cash, and receive payments over the internet. Just some of the ways we can help you grow your business ... find out more today. (i) First National 800-354-3988 www.membersales.comjawci-net Merchant Solutions

March 2009 Horological Times 33 March 2-6, 2009 Modern Automatic Watches FULL March 16-20, 2009 Modern Mechanical Chronographs, Servicing & Adjusting FULL April 27-May 1, 2009 Basic Quartz Watch and Quartz Chronograph Repair FULL June 8-12, 2009 Watchmaker's Lathe I FULL July 13-17, 2009 Basic Watch Repair FULL Aug. 31-Sept. 4, 2009 Balance Staffing & Timing FULL September 21-25, 2009 Modern Automatic Watches October 5-9, 2009 Basic Quartz Watch and Quartz Chronograph Repair October 19-23, 2009 Modern Mechanical Chronographs, Servicing & Adjusting FULL November 9-13, 2009 Modern Mechanical Chronographs, Servicing & Adjusting

March 30-April 2, 2009 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH May 4-7, 2009 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH June 23-26, 2009 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH July 20-23, 2009 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH Aug 31-Sept 3, 2009 North Seattle Community College Seattle, WA September 8-11, 2009 Lititz Watch Technicum Lititz, PA October 26-29, 2009 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH November 16-19, 2009 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH

34 Horological Times March 2009 March 23-27, 2009 Hand Tools and Making Small Parts April 20-24, 2009 Basic Turning, Burnishing and Tool Grinding May 4-8, 2009 Advanced Machining Techniques May 18-22, 2009 Recoil Pallet Repairs June 1-5, 2009 Deadbeat Pallet Repairs June 15-19, 2009 Servicing Modern and Antique Time & Strike Movements July 6-1 0, 2009 Servicing an American Time & Strike Movement July 20-24, 2009 Servicing the 400-Day Clock and Using Electronic Timers August 10-14, 2009 Servicing the Modern Cuckoo Clock with Music Box August 24-29, 2009 Servicing the Modern Westminster Chime Movement

Advanced Machining Recoil Pallet Techniques Repairs May 4-8, 2009 - Harrison, Ohio May 18-22, 2009 - Harrison, Ohio Laurie Penman, Instructor Laurie Penman, Instructor

DESCRIPTION DESCRIPTION This 5-day class will mainly be concerned with the mak­ This is one of the most common forms of escapement ing of new parts. In addition to various turning techniques and used in many types of clocks-longcase, bracket, for producing leaf springs, hand washers, formed pillars, mantel, wall clocks. This five-day class includes the mak­ etc., simple milling can be demonstrated and practiced ing of solid recoil pallets, strap pallets and a study of such as gear cutting and producing flats. pendulums and suspensions.

PREREQUISITE PREREQUISITE The student should have basic knowledge of turning, the Knowledge of the use of hand tools, familiarity with lathes use of hand tools and drilling machines, and machine tool and drilling machines, and machine tool safety. safety. COURSE OUTLINE For a complete course outline and tool list visit COURSE OUTLINE www.awci.com/services!continue-edu.php For a complete course outline and tool list visit www. a wei. comlservices!continue-edu.php

Class fee is $725. For additional information, contact Education Coordinator, Nancy Wellmann [email protected] or call 1-866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303

March 2009 Horological Times 35 IMPORTANT - NEW ADDRESS FOR Classified Advertising ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE LARRY BLANCHARD, CMW21 We are Factory Authorized Service for: Now at: Palmer's Regulations & Rates • VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP 101 East Sycamore St. , Kokomo, IN 46901 • TICK-0-PRINT & L&R Phone (BOO) 207-1251 We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate Fax (765) 457-8517 Ads are payable in advance $1.00 per word, recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. E-mail: [email protected] $1.10 per word in bold type. Classified dis­ Continuing with service of tuning fork Accutron, vintage play ads are $45.00 per column inch, 211.1'' 190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 American and fine Swiss watches. wide. Classified ads are not commissionable Used Equipment Bought & Sold or discountable. Payment can be made by check, VISA, MasterCard, Discover, Diner's ~ For Information (. ~ ~ ·- ) CLOCK , MUSIC BOX MAINSPRINGS, GEAR or American Express. The publisher may, ~ (415) 479-8960 PINION CUTTERS, MATERIAL & PARTS CUS­ at the publisher's sole discretion and for any TOM MADE. TANI ENGINEERING, 1852 State reason and without notice, decline to pub­ Route 44, Atwater, OH 44201 ; (330) 325-0645. lish or republish any ad, in which case any E-mail: waldencroft@ peoplepc.com fees submitted or paid for such ads shall FG WATCH SERVICE CORP. be returned or rebated to the advertiser. The BUY · SELL · TRADE · REPAIR publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. SPECIALIZING IN FINE & SWISS WATCHES Price lists of services will not be accepted. Rolex • Cartier • Concord • Movado • Others Confidential ads are $15.00 additional for Tel: (305) 373-7131 Fax: (305) 373-7355 POLISH PIVOTS IN AS postage and handling. The first of the month Seybold Building UTILE AS 5 -7 SEC. is issue date. Copy must be received 30 36 NE 1 ~ St., Suite 605 Miami, FL 33132 1,AfH£S. days in advance (May issue closes for copy 1\llolCH.MAFJTS~~N~= ...... on April 1st). MORGAN CLOCK CO. 800-805-2220 9-6 CST HOROLOG/CAL TIMES DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, FIN­ MORGANPIVOTPOUSHER.COM EST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. Spe­ 701 Enterprise Drive cialize on changing dial feet positions to fit the Harrison, OH 45030 quartz movement. Send your works to: KIRK Toll Free 866-367-2924, ext. 307 DIAL OF SEATTLE, 112 Central Avenue North, Phone (513) 367-9800 Kent, WA 98032; (253) 852-5125 Fax (513) 367-1414 E-mail: [email protected] www.awci.com VINTAGE POCKET WATCH RESTORATION Thirty-two years experience, guarantee, free estimates. The Escapement, P.O. Box 522, Pooler, GA 31322; (912) 330-0866

REPIVOTING- WRIST & POCKET WATCHES Custom made pivots for balance staffs, arbors, pinions. No part too small. Balance staffs and Prompt Reliable Service ... Guaranteed TRADESMAN arbors made to factory standards. 40 years ex­ Call Us or Visit dialreoair.com perience. Juliusz Dabrowski, J.D.Watchworks 210 Post St., Suite 506, San Francisco, CA r------, 94108; (415) 397-0310; [email protected] DIAL I CLEANING, RESTORATION & POCKET WATCH & PART MANUFACTURING FOR ALL REPAIR TYPES OF CLOCKS & WATCHES REFINISHING General repair and restoration of antique and complicated watches. Custom parts fabrica­ ROLEX TRAINED & CERTIFIED TECHNICIAN #0198 tion including staffs, verge staffs, stems, Restoration and service all types of old antique watch & ''I!, levers, and springs. Located in Massachusetts. clocks, such as: fusees, Almas, cuckoo, old 400-day an· • !' .... , 2' Matt Henning, CW (413) 549-1950; niversary. Pateks, Piagets, Vacherons · all old & new www.henningwatches.com Omegas, all tuning forks such as Accutrons · electric, :_. . -· quartz, minute repeaters, multifunction chronographs· * -: ~ . 4 . any complications timepiece; pocket watches, alarms 1 • HAMILTON ELECTRIC clocks. Repivoting, restoration of porcelain dials, dial re· ~ '" WATCH RESTORATION finishing, fusee chain manufacturing (estimate lor quote). BEFORE AFTER Expert, experienced service on all Hamilton 500 Replate service lor watch cases, bracelets, clock cases and 505 Electric watches. Rene Rondeau, P.O. & frames in 40 micron thick, in yellow, pink rose, 14k & Quartz Conversions Box 391, Corte Madera, CA 94976, Phone (415) 18k gold, Silver, nickel rhodium. Free estimates, 35 years Diamond Dial Conversions 924-6534 www.hamiltonwristwatch.com experience in watch and clock restoration and parts Emblem & Name Personalization manufacturing.

Write for Brochures GCA LA PRECISION CLOCK GEARS, BARRELS and PINIONS Guido C. Alave INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. made from your sample, ARBORS re-pivoted, Member AWCI , NAWCC 58 W. SUGARTREE teeth replaced in gears or barrels. All work 320 Maple Avenue East Unit E P.O. BOX 970 guaranteed, fair prices fast turn around. Vienna, VA22180 Call Mike Loebbaka, 86 Mullens Lane, E-mail [email protected] WILMINGTON, OH 45177 www.watch-watches-repairs.com (937) 382-4535 Saugerties, NY 12477; Phone: 800-411-4542, L ______..J tictoc@ oldandnew.com Ph 703·255·0055 Fax 703-255-0061

36 Horological Times March 2009 FENDLEY & COX DOCTOR'S WATCHES- beautiful German de­ WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST flJLLY tEED sign, Swiss mechanical ETA movement, good 1530 Etain Rd ., Irving, TX 75060 W.A~~.AN & cleaners price. Contact Mark Butterworth for info at (563) RICHARD COX 972-986-7698 263-6759 or [email protected] CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI watch tirtl_ers www.fendley-cox.com DASHTO INC./TOM MISTER ATMOS PO Box 61894 Service/Repair Virginia Beach, VA 23466 Warranty 2 Years Parts & Labor http://www.dashto.com 800-837-1545 Huge and everchanging selection Clockmaster, Inc. - Robert Good Used and new horological items 2537 So. Brentwood Blvd. Sold by internet list only St. Louis, Missouri 63144 TOOLS/EQUIPMENT MATERIAL ASSTS/PARTS POCKET/WRISTWATCHES WATCH MOVEMENTS WATCH CASES & DIALS www.vibrografusa.com WATCH BRACELETS/BUCKLES MUCH MORE ARTICLES FOR SALE WE BUY & TRADE ALSO dash to@ erols.com PTPWP is your #1 source for American pocket, http://www.dashto.org Parts - Circuits - Movements wrist and military watch material. We have all Including but not limited to calibers 101.001, the old S. LaRose American material plus re­ 201.001, 210.001, 940.111 , 950.001, 959.001. production dials, a large staff selection and crys­ Clockmaking & Modelmaking Books, Videos & We also have parts for ETA, ESA, AS, FEF, tals. We also offer a parts search service. If we DVDs by W. R. Smith, 8049 Camberley Drive, FHF, UNITAS, FELSA and other calibers. do not have it, then we probably can get it. Powell, TN 37849. Phone 865-947-9671 ; [email protected] (208) 676-8430 Past Times Pocket Watch Parts LLC E-mail: [email protected] 21 08 D Cheshire Way Greensboro, NC 27405 HAMILTON ORIGINAL MILITARY MATERIAL info@ ptpwp.com The Original Troop-Balas Labs Supplying original factory material for the PH: 336-621-1194 Silcon-7® Sealant $6.60 Hamilton Model21 Chronometer, Model22 Deck FAX: 336-621-1196 One-Dip Solution® $6.60 Watch & Military 16 Size Watch Models 23, www.ptpwp.com Crystai-Kieer® Rouge $7.25 3992B, 4992B and 2974B As well as much ma­ KT-22 Microlubricant® $3.90 terial for the 950B & 992B Railroad Watches. www.troop-balas.com LARRY CRUTSINGER STUCK FOR A MOVEMENT? 800-423-3294 P.O. Box 8514 Norfolk, VA 23503 or a watch part? Call Don Kroker's Watch Move­ 757-650-9470 E-mail: detent21 @aol.com ments. (559) 229-8423 or write 4325 No. 5th www.militarywatchmuseum.com St. , Fresno, CA 93726. Regula and H. Herr Cuckoo Movements Complete selection. Also factory stopper new Hermie, Urgos, and Kieninger at 60% OFF our Our latest ROOB-R009 Catalog of regular wholesale prices. Call Butterworth's Parts and Repair Supplies is (563) 263-6759. available. .. Write or call for your copy today! •• .$5.00 postpd. SITUATIONS WANTED Watch Repair Tools & Supplies · Clock Repair Tools & Supplies... WATCHMAKER/TECHNICIAN for American and European 30 years experience clocks of all types! Horology School Graduate HoroJoaical Repair and Please contact John Refemce Books [email protected] Order on-line R4-hours a day! .•. www.merritts.com 'Merritt's CLOCK & WATCH REPAIR SUPPLY 1860 Weavertown Rd, Douglassville, PA 19518 610-689-9541 FAX: 610-689-0567

March 2009 Horological Times 37 WANTED TO BUY PAYING TOP DOLLAR Used Watch Batteries PAYING UP TO $25 PER POUND • FREE SHIPPING WANTED USED WATCH BATTERIES Dee Adams 832-282-0345 Highest prices paid in immediate cash for used I'll~~ dadams@ brytexmetals.com www.brytexmetals.com silver oxide watch batteries. Free shipping within continental US. Sorting service available. Patrick Bracken STAR REFINING LONDON Grand Beach & Grand Rapids, Ml USA; Phone Toll Free 866-812-2333 WATCH MATERIAL WANTED WATCH BOXES E-mail: [email protected] DISTRIBUTORS Buy - Sell - Trade Please call us if you are interested We want most major brands. Also buying high­ in selling your business. end jewelry brand boxes. Doug Giard, 586- WE BUY WATCHES All replies confidential. 774-3684 Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, Contact Pat Cassedy Breitling, Audemars, Tudor and others. Modern or Vintage. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 Cas-Ker 1·800-487-0408

We pay up to 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, Chronograph movements, cases, dials, parts silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment and watches. Paying: Valjoux 72 - $300.00; If'S TIME return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: Venus 178- $300.00; Longines 13ZN- $500.00; TO SELL AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King St., Valjoux 69 - $350.00; also Rolex 620 NA - Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Established $350.00. Dean Samelle, 25 W Beverley St., A WATCH ... Staunton, VA 24401; 1-866-877-8164. 1960. Phone (843) 722-2073 TOP PRICES, PAID! ROLEX • PATEK PHIUP!{E $$WANTED ANYTHING$$ VACHERON & CONSTANTIN ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling AUDEMARS PIGUET Call us before you sell your parts, tools, Panerai - Le Coultre BREITLING • CARTIER and watches. We have helped over 175 Vacheron - AP - Etc. & OTHERS watchmakers In the last eight years to Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, dispose of their accumulations. When When you' re re.1dy 10 sell Movements, Crystals, Bezels, Crowns, Clocks, Call Toll Pre(> you're rliillY ready to sell, we're rudy to Signs, Posters, Catalogs, Instruction Books, buy! Phone (229) 928-9092 or (727) 327- 1-800-842-8625 Polish Cloths, Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo 3306. Ask for Jeff or Nancy. E-mail: Always prompt paymellll [email protected] Items, ANYTHING! Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 T A 1TI\ TF' NT":Cr v~~QU\l -- ... ______. ..•

WANTED! Entire Watch Collections Scrap Watchbands Gold-Filled Cases & Scrap Gold, Silver & Platinum Scrap Call Toll Free 1-800-208-2608 We also fit glass crystals to Visit our website for more information Openface, Hunting, and English www .specialtymetalsrefiners.com chain drive watches. Specialty Metals Complete watches, dials, Smelters &Refiners , LLC movements, case springs for sale. 2490 Black Rock Tpke. Fairfield, CT 06825 il 203-366-2500 - Local G F Specialties BOQ-884-7966- Fax 1-800-351-6926 sales@ specialtymetalsrefiners.com P.O. Box 2332 Member: Jewelers Board of Trade Sanford, FL 32772 279 consecutive ads

38 Horological Times March 2009 AWCI Correspondence Course in Clock Repair

Based on the original correspondence course written and administered by Laurie Penman, AWCI's resident clock instructor, this course is constructed to provide information and instruction in a manner that is immediately useful in both learning and practicing clock repair. The course contains 16 lessons. At the completion of each lesson you will receive comments and suggestions from Laurie Penman, and a pass or fail grade. Those who achieve a pass grade in each section will receive a certificate of completion. Mr. Penman will be available to answer questions or offer suggestions to each student.

The AWCI Correspondence Course in Clock Repair package contains all the material and information necessary to successfully learn the fundamentals of clock repair, including The Clock Repairer's Handbook by Laurie Penman.

AWCI Members - $850 Non-members - $1 ,000

Contact Nancy Wellmann, AWCI Education Coordinator E-mail: [email protected] Phone Toll Free 1-866-367-2924, ext. 303 or (513) 367-9800

American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Membership Benefit Alert!

Health Savings Accounts Long-Term Care Disability Income/Critical Illness Annuities Dental& Vision Insurance Health Insurance Home Health Care Life Insurance Assisted Living Individuals 8t Families Term 5, 10, 20, 25, 30, Age 95 Nursing Home Care Groups Universal Life Student Health Plans Survivorship (2nd to Die) Medicare Supplements Key Person International Travel Insurance Executive Benefit Life Health Savings Accounts Retirement 8t Financial Services Individua Is/Groups

On Insurance Premiums!

Rates and Availability May Vary By State. AWCI Association Health Programs 6319 W. llOth Street, Overland Park, Kansas 66211 ASSOCIATION Phone: (913) 341-2868 Toll Free: (888) 450-3040 Fax: (913) 341-2803 Email: [email protected] Website: www .associationpros.com/assoc/ AWCI PROGRAMS

March 2009 Horological Times 39 Black Forest Imports, Inc. 27 Livesay's, Inc ...... 13 (800) 824-0900 (813) 229-2715

Borel & Co., Jules ...... inside front cover Maxell Corp. back cover (816) 421-6110 (201) 794-5900

Butterworth Clocks, Inc ...... 17 Renata ...... 3 (563) 263-6759 (214) 351-0380

Cas-Ker Co ...... 5 Smith Supply House 11 (513) 674-7700 (213) 622-1687

Chronos/WJR ...... 29 Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp. 7 (303) 296-1600 (516) 437-8700

Clocks ...... 25 Witschi Electronic Ltd ...... inside back cover 011 44 131 331 3200 011 32 352 05 00

Clocks Unlimited ...... 9 Zantech 21 (269) 792-9607 (800) 441-7569

Eckcells ...... 19 (800) 514-1270

Horological Times Advertising Policy The publisher reserves the right to approve all advertising copy and reject any advertisements not in keeping with the publisher's standards. The publisher may, at the publisher's sole discretion and for any reason and without notice, decline to publish or republish any ad, in which case any fees submitted or paid for such ads shall be returned or rebated to the advertiser. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. The advertiser and/or agency agree to assume liability for all content of advertisements printed. They will also accept responsibility for any claims or suits arising therefrom brought against the publisher.

James E. Lubic, CMW21 Donna K. Baas Jim Meyer Executive Director Managing Editor/Advertising Manager IT Director Education & Technical Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 307 1-866-367-2924 ext. 323 1-866-367-2924 ext. 310 [email protected] jmeyer@ a wei. com [email protected] Nancy L. Wellmann Thomas J. Pack, CPA Education Coordinator American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Operations Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 303 701 Enterprise Drive 1-866-367-2924 ext. 311 nwellmann@ awci.com Harrison, OH 45030 [email protected] Phone: Toll Free 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) Sharon McManus (513) 367-9800 Thomas D. Schomaker, CMW21 Membership Coordinator Fax: (513) 367-1414 Watchmaking Instructor/ 1-866-367-2924 ext. 302 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.awci.com Certification Coordinator smcmanus@ awci.com Office Hours: 8:00 to 5:00 (EST) Mon-Fri 1-866-367-2924 ext. 309 tschomaker@ awci.com Daniela Ott Receptionist/Technical Support Laurie Penman 1-866-367-2924 ext. 301 Clock Instructor [email protected] 1-866-367-2924 ext. 318 Ipenman@ awci .com

40 Horological Times March 2009 Performance

c::= LEADING SWISS PRODUCTS

..-: ...:,1 -• • ....

~

Specially suited for the repair service and for The new, special Leak Finder Program for the specialized trade. the localization of watch leakages in water.

Clear menu guidance guarantees simplest han­ Automatic test cycle with one or two pres­ dling and reliable examination for all watches. sures, respectively with vacuum and pressure.

8 pre-defined universal test programs and 10 RS232 interface to connect the Witschi printer programs with free choice of test parameters. and USB interface for PC attachment.

Witschi Electronic Ltd, Switzerland Bahnhofstrass e 26- CH -3294 BUren a.A. - Tel . +41 32 352 05 00 Fax +41 32 351 32 92 - welcome @witschi.com - www.w itschi.com wit'Schi '-./ Batteries that are counterfeit or otherwise not factory authorized for distribution have bec ome an epidemic. Their performance does not meet exacting fac tory standards. They lack reliability. And they ruin the trust between buyers and sellers. That's why Maxe ll has developed holographic battery packaging that guarantees authenticity. Extremely difficult to copy, this packaging ensures peak performance and reliability you can expect from genuine, factory-authorized Maxell batteries. Accept no substitute.

CONTACT CATHY RUFFIN AT [email protected] FOR MORE INFORMATION. maxell THE WORLD LEADER IN MICROBATrERY TECHNOLOGY © 2008 M axell C o rpo ra tion of Ame rica