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DECEMBER 2018

Night of Stars Design Reimagined

3 FGI Frontliner Footwear Next

4 Celebrating Fragrance and Annette Green NIGHT OF STARS Upcoming Events

5 Trend Forecaster Li Edelkoort Looks To Goddesses For Inspiration

Five Questions with a Rising Star Jeffery Dodd

6 1 2 Tastemaker Breakfast of Champions Santa Claus Club

THE PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE 3 4

Chair Katie Kretschmer Editor/Contributing Writer

Writers / Editors Wendy D'Amico, Creative Consultant Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Writer Carolyn Moss, Contributing Writer Melissa Pastore, Contributing Writer 5 6

Graphic Design Debora DeCarlo, DDC Graphics 1.Presenters and with Superstar Award winner Vera Wang 2. Fashion Stars Carol Lim and Humberto Leon with presenter Sasha Velour (middle) 3. Robert Norton for Luxury Lifestyle winner Moncler with presenter Miles Chamley-Watson Photography Bruce Borner 4. Presenter Daniella Vitale with Beauty Star winner Frédéric Malle Maryanne Grisz 5. Fashion Star Olivier Rousteing (middle) and the Balmain Army Patrick McMullen 6. Fashion Star and presenter

1 CONTINUED ON PAGE 2 Night of Stars ......

Design Reimagined

Superstar Vera Wang

Fashion Stars Olivier Rousteing, Anna Sui Carol Lim and Humberto Leon 7 8 Fashion Oracle Maye Musk

Humanitarian Award Barbara Bradley Baekgaard for Vera Bradley

Architecture Robin Standefer and Stephen Alesch for Roman and Williams

Media 9 =10 Vanessa Friedman 1010 Subtainability Maria Cornejo

Design Technology Billie Whitehouse for Wearable X

Corporate Leadership Deirdre Quinn for Lafayette 148

Beauty Frédéric Malle 11 111121 13

The stars aligned for Design Reimagined, FGI’s annual Night of Stars gala at Cipriani Wall Street on October 25. The glamorous galaxy of fashion, retail, design and beauty stars sparkled and shined and toasted the industry’s movers and changers.

Chairman of the Board of FGI, Donald Loftus, welcomed guests and acknowledged the evening’s sponsors: Hearst Magazines, Arcade Beauty, IFF, LIM College, with digital power provided by WWD.

Simon Doonan was, as is traditional, the evening’s emcee. Guests were wined and dined, awards were presented and accepted, and the evening’s stars departed back into the night—at a reasonable hour!

–– Katie Kretschmer Editor/Contributing Writer

7. Presenter Richard Ellenson with Humanitarian Award winner Barbara Bradley Baekgaard for Vera Bradley 8. Sustainability Award winner Maria Cornejo with presenter Mark Ruffalo 9. Design-Technology Award winner Billie Whitehouse for Wearable X with presenter Rebecca Minkoff 10. Media Award winner Vanessa Friedman with presenter Dean Baquet 11. Architecture Award winners Robin Standefer and Stephen Alesch for Roman and Williams with presenter Amy Astley (middle) 12. Corporate Leadership Award winner Deirdre Quinn for Lafayette 148 with presenter Jim Gold 13. Fashion Oracle Maye Musk with presenter Julia Perry 2 FGI Frontliner: Footwear Next ...... H A P P Y H O L I D A Y S

From left: Veronica Collins, Erica Russo, Julie Gall, and and Lizzie Bickford

People love fashion, but (some) people fetishize “Comfort means confidence, means beauty,” shoes. To address the obsession for footwear, FGI said Collins. Bickford backed her up, saying, held a Frontliner October 10th looking at what’s “If you aren’t comfortable, you don’t feel next for this category driven equally by style and beautiful.” She pointed to the power of a pair comfort (or is it?). of shoes to “act like a superhero cape to transform basic jeans and a tee.” Moderator Julie Gall, accessories director at Marie Claire, led the conversation with panelists Lizzie For all the panelists, the street is often a more Bickford, marketing and public relations director important driver of trend inspiration than the run- for Sam Edelman; Veronica Collins, president way. “At Bloomingdale’s, we have to place our and COO of Sarah Flint; and Erica Russo, vice footwear orders before we’ve been to the shows,” Fashion Group president and fashion director of accessories and said Russo, so it’s always a challenge. “We watch beauty at Bloomingdale’s. the street, social media.”

Together, they covered the breadth of the industry. Timing is also a challenge for the Edelman brand, Wishes a Sarah Flint started out as a luxury brand since speed is key its DNA. “It’s a challenge to that sold to stores like Bloomingdale’s, but then offer ‘new’ over quality, quickly,” said Bickford. shifted to a direct-to-consumer model. “The pressure is increased because there are so Peaceful and Joyous Bloomingdale’s represents the retail side, while many options for buying.” Sam Edelman straddles the line as a brand with wholesale accounts as well as its own stores. Collins stated that taking the brand direct removed the pressure of a fashion calendar. “We made a Holiday Season Gall asked the panelists to define their customers. choice to trade newness and product drops For Bloomies, said Russo, “She’s very engaged, for quality and fit,” she said. “Millennials are with a busy lifestyle, but she spans the range from beginning to buy less but better and that works for To All Our Members mothers and daughters to Millennials looking for us.” She said she and her business partner, of-the-moment styles and comfort.” Collins said designer Sarah Flint regularly spend time answering the original Sarah Flint price point, at around the phones and talking to customers directly. $800, locked them in to a high-end customer. But and Friends by taking the brand direct to customers, “We’ve One trend none of the panelists was sure about been able to lower the price point by about 40 concerned how new tariffs might affect bottom percent, which has grown the brand and added a lines. At Sarah Flint, it seems a nonissue for now: and younger customer.” Bickford said the Sam “We’re 100 percent manufactured in Spain and Edelman customer is primarily a “girl on the go, Italy, but if tariffs spread to the EU we will feel looking for aspirational luxury at an attainable it,” said Collins. price.” She said despite the $100 price point, May The New Year they get a lot of editorial placement in luxury Russo is confident it will impact many of fashion spreads, “which is great for our customer, Bloomingdale’s vendors, but it’s not clear to what to see that there’s something for her that fits in extent at this point. “We value our partnerships Bring Health, Happiness these stories.” with our vendors, so we will figure it out,” she said. Bickford also maintained a wait-and-see The conversation shifted to comfort versus style. stance: “So far so good. We are committed to and Prosperity All the panelists agreed that for today’s customer, keeping an attainable price point, so we’ll figure it there’s no longer one “must-have” style driving a out.” season. “It’s a lot like the definition of beauty today: it’s about confidence as much as trends. –– Katie Kretschmer To All Editor/Contributing Writer

3 Celebrating Fragrance and Annette Green ...... Calendar of Events

From left: Rose Marie Bravo, Annette Green and Kate Oldham

Everything Stops For Tea… ...And Breakfast January 24th, 2019 Leonard Lauder , who knows a thing or two about The following week, on September 20, members fragrance and parties, hosted a very Lauder-esque and fans gathered at FGI headquarters (with Fashion Group International (read: elegant and perfectly orchestrated) equally lovely, but not so lofty views of Bryant Rising Star afternoon tea with proper little sandwiches Park and Fifth Avenue) for breakfast and a conver- with the edges cut off; tea cakes; tea, of course, sation with Annette Green and Kate Oldham, senior and wine for those so inclined, to celebrate vice president and general merchandise manager Luncheon and awards ceremony Annette Green and her just-published memoire, of beauty, jewelry and home at Saks Fifth Avenue. Celebrating the accomplishments Spritzing to Success. Rose Marie Bravo guided the dialogue, which of emerging talents in celebrated Green’s book and explored the ways Named executive director of The Fragrance Green revolutionized the industry and how Oldham Accessories Foundation in 1961, Green is credited with taking sees it continuing to evolve. an industry under her wing, creating the annual Beauty/Fragrance Corporate Fragrance Week, the Wardrobe of Fragrance con- Green shared insights she learned over her many cept, bringing the art and science of fragrance years in the industry, including the importance of Beauty/Fragrance Entrepreneur together in a universal language and spearheading keeping your finger on the pulse of societal Fine Jewelry a global industry generating billions in sales. changes. Oldham agreed, noting the challenge online selling brings to fragrance. Home/Interior Held on September 13, in the cerulean, 40th floor skybox of the Lauder Company’s digs at 767 Green also stressed the importance of developing Men’s Apparel Fifth Avenue, Mr. auderL opened the festivities by an entrepreneurial spirit, particularly of taking Retail explaining “spritzing,” which means—to anyone uncharted paths (but well-armed with research). who’s ever navigated the aisles of a department “Don’t be afraid to do something that’s never been Women’s Apparel store—being doused with liberal sprays of the done before,” she said, telling how an exhibition perfumes currently on offer. of glass snuff bottles at the Steuben showroom inspired her to do something similar with perfume 110 East Cipriani 42 Street, NYC Meeting, greeting and posing for photo ops were a bottles. Oldham is currently breaking from few of the “co-conspirators” mentioned in Green’s fragrance department tradition by moving the area book, former Fragrance Foundation colleagues off the main floor at Saks. “We didn’t have Reception and scores of wellwishers. After Mr. Lauder, room to do anything else.” She said today’s 11:15 am himself a 2000 inductee into the Fragrance customer more and more sees fragrance as a form Foundation Circle of Champions, Green, and her of self-care. long-time friend, Rose Marie Bravo, who wrote the Luncheon and Awards prelude to the book, shared anecdotes and memo- –– Katie Kretschmer 12:15 pm ries about the industry, guests mingled over the Editor/Contributing Writer goodies being passed and looked out over the vast and beautiful expanse of “The Big Back Yard of The City.” For more insights and perspective on the –– Wendy D'Amico revolution of the fragrance industry, Spritzing For more information Creative Consultant, [email protected] to Success is available at spritzingtosuccess.com And to purchase tickets and/or tables Visit www.fgi.org or call 212.302.5511

4 Li Edelkoort Looks To Goddesses For Inspiration Trend Forecaster: ...... ive questions with the 2018 Rising Stars    5      Jeffery Dodd    Women’s Wear Rising Star Each January, FGI recognizes a group of Lidewij Edelkoort is a pioneer in the trend Aphrodite is characterized by foamy fabrics up-and-coming designers, entrepreneurs forecasting world and on September 17, she like● lace and tulle since she has a focus on and other creatives in the fashion, retail, shared her expertise with Fashion Group attracting others. beauty and decor fields. As the Rising Stars of International at FGI headquarters in New York the industry, we believe it’s enlightening to ask them about how they got this far, and what they City. Through her company Trend Union, Epona, a Celtic goddess, loves animals like see for the future. We've been featuring their replies Edelkoort produces forecasts used by a wide ponies● and horses, but she is stubborn and here. In this issue, we talk to Jeffery Dodd who tied range of clients spanning industries including headstrong. Edelkoort thinks Epona has the with Asher Levine for the women’s wear award. design, textiles, food and fashion. Additionally, perfect backstory for a brand like Hermès. in 2011, she launched Trend Tablet, an Additionally, Epona gravitates towards heavy How has winning the Rising Star award affected interactive online trend forum. Since 2015, she dresses, chunky jewelry and details like frayed you career, and how do you see it shaping your has held the role of Dean of Hybrid Studies at edges, loose ends and fringes. business/career in the future? Parsons. Throughout her career she has earned numerous accolades including being named one Artemis is a goddess who is loved by society JEFFERY DODD: Following the Rising Star award, of the Most Influential People in Fashion by ●and has a masculine nature that shows up as we had a record number of attendees at the recent Time magazine. tomboy-inspired fashions with army and safari Fall 2018 presentation. Since the award was influences. just recently announced, I am looking forward to Edelkoort gave FGI a preview of her upcoming seeing how it will continue to shape the business book, which focuses on using goddesses as Twin sisters Flora and Fauna are very different in the future. female archetypes to predict upcoming trends. ● from one another. Key trends inspired by the Does the investment in a major branding event (such She kicked off her presentation with a video sisters include floral and animal prints mixed featuring quotes from inspirational women as a runway or party/presentation) make sense today together in the same look, as well as opulent, or does social media work better to grow a brand? ranging from Malala Yousafzai to Georgia decorative fabrics. O’Keeffe to Frida Kahlo to Yoko Ono. Then, she JD: I think that a runway or presentation is still discussed several goddesses as well as their Mama Ocllo is born from the sun and moon an effective way to showcase each collection, potential impact on upcoming trends, including: and● has a South American influence. Some particularly for press. At the same time, I under- key trends she inspires include colorful, stand that social media is becoming an increasingly Mother Earth who, according to Edelkoort, is embellished fashions and woven fabrics. important and effective way to grow the brand. ●generous and empathetic. In terms of trends this translates to flat footwear that keeps people The African goddess Adoma’s story includes a If you weren’t in your current profession, what would close to earth, earthy colors, fabrics like linen ●focus on the crocodile. Her influence translates you be doing (and why)? and hemp as well as bigger silhouettes. to beading, jacquard and new patterns and JD: I can’t imagine doing anything else. knits. Athena , a tough Greek goddess, born from her In the next five years, how will your role—and that of father’s● head and therefore comfortable with The Indian goddess Saraswati inspires trends your industry—play out in a dramatically changing men. She is often dressed in armorlike neutral like● handmade goods, embroidery, layering, tie retail environment? clothes that are made of stonelike materials. dye and multicolored beadings. JD: It will be interesting to see how the retail The Egyptian goddess Bastet is haughty and Trends inspired by the goddess Nike include environment continues to evolve, particularly with ●distant. She is represented by the color green antique● coins, wings, muted warm colors, the increasing importance of e-commerce. At the and has feline characteristics. In terms of quilting and a more feminine and romantic idea same time, I think it’s important for us as design- fashion, this equates to enormous earrings, of activewear. ers to recognize the increasing importance of bronze colorways, open metalwork and Art experiential spending and personal experiences for Deco fabrics. The goddess Eirene was a diplomat and a customers, both directly and through social media. serene● woman who always wore white. In terms Hestia, the Greek goddess, has a more of fashion, this translates to simple white What advice would you give to the next class of ●centered and quiet temperament that can also dresses for day and draped garments Rising Star nominees? be homely, sweet and gentle. The fashion for evening. JD: I think that the most important advice is to equivalent is denim, big dresses, household –– Melissa Pastore stay true to your vision as a designer and be fully fabrics and head scarves. Contributing Writer, [email protected] committed to each collection.

5 Tastemaker: Breakfast of Champions ...... Santa Claus Club

Thanks to Santa’s right hand elf, FGI’s Jazz Purewal, From left: John Varvatos and Nick Sullivan the ever-generous members of Fashion Group always make Santa’s nice list. Once again this year, they helped make the season brighter for Designer, retailer, musician, philanthropist and In the early 2000s, Varvatos entered into a more than 300 children at the New York Foundling Hospital. The kids write letters to Santa, which inventor: These are the talents that define John partnership with Converse and designed the are given to any and all members who want Varvatos; inarguably, the very reflection of a now ubiquitous and much knocked-off, at every to help fulfill Christmas wishes. The piles of Renaissance Man. conceivable price point, the laceless sneaker. brightly wrapped gifts fill the halls at headquarters until Mr. Claus picks them up to hand out at a On November 13th, Varvatos, battling walking Sold in his eponymous stores as well as luxury festive party. pneumonia, mind you, sat down with Esquire’s retailers around the world, Varvatos claims that fashion editor, the erudite, multilingual journalist what he loves about doing personal appear- Many thanks to all who participated, and to all a extraordinaire and massively charming Nick ances—of which he manages a pretty heavy good night. Sullivan for a conversation that seemed, in its calendar—is not standing around chatting, warmth and sense of camaraderie, like two guys but rather being up close and personal with talking shop over a beer. customers, in the dressing rooms, supervising fit and monitoring reactions. Seriously drawn as a teenager to everything rock ’n’ roll, Varvatos learned to play the guitar and His passion for music is evident everywhere and developed an interest in fashion with a rocker in everything Varvatos; perhaps especially, by his sensibility, which led to sales positions with local insistence, against all advice, of opening a store men’s clothing retailers (the discount on clothes in what had been the CBGB nightclub which, he girls thought were cool didn’t dim the appeal) and said, “marked a turning point for the brand…it ultimately to a job at . Lured to changed the path of what we were.” Calvin Klein, he invented the iconic boxer brief which, given its status as one of the most copied Sponsored by American Airlines, the breakfast items in menswear, he admits he should have was held at The Cosmopolitan Club, one of New registered. Anyway, back to Ralph Lauren, which York’s oldest, most fashionable and ultraprivate was, he said, the best thing that ever happened to addresses, with which Fashion Group shares him. It was Ralph who brought him into the world a certain connection. Among the club’s of marketing and to the realization that he had early members was Eleanor Roosevelt, one of the skills and “the eye” to become a fashion the 17 founders of Fashion Group International. designer. Varvatos made it very clear, though, that FGI Chairman of the FGI Board, Don Loftus, did as life-altering as his associations with those two the opening honors, and spotted around the beacons of menswear design were, he has never dining room were Nicholas Munafo, Claudia Poccia, done a version of either; his multiproduct, global Amy Rosi, Charles Klein, Alan Lungen, Ilene Shaw brand is indelibly infused with his own DNA. and Marylou Luther. There’s fashion, he said, and then there’s style, pointing out that his job is to deliver interesting –– Wendy D'Amico things that compel his customer to buy. It’s about Creative Consultant, [email protected] staying true to yourself, he said. “If I were to radically change, my customer would say, what the hell is going on?”

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