JANUARY 2012 / Rs. 100 www.ecs.com.np ISSN 1729-2751 One voice / Fabric of society / A passage back in time / Vivaha Panchami / Onwards and upwards / Fabric of society A passage back in time Vivaha Panchami Onwards and upwards

JANUARY 2012

ISSN 1729-2751

www.ecs.com.np OneOne VoiceVoice For decades, the comedy duo of Madan Shrestha and Hari Bansa Acharya have entertained 9 771729 275000 and informed its loving Nepali audience. SUBSCRIBER COPY PACKETS OF TRADITION ART FOR THE PEOPLE NEWARI CRAFT REVISITED 125 40 Making Masala during 42 Artists are increasingly 106 A craft shop strives to revisit is an act that ties tradition to a taking art out of the gallery and promote traditional community. and to the public. Nepali craft.

the NEPALI An way Photo Contest

In the unifying words of Prithivi Narayan Shah, is a common garden of four castes and thirty-six sub-castes of people. What makes us Nepali in a modern Nepal?

Theme for January : “People”

Submit your photos at www.ecs.com.np/contest for a chance to have your work published and win exciting prizes!

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You looked forward to planning fun weekends. You sought elaborate details on upcoming events. You tried delicacies for the love of food and drinking. You gossiped about personalities in focus. You drooled over exclusive features, cover stories & MUCH MORE….

WITH

ENTERTAINING YOU FOR 100 FUN WEEKS!

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ECS NEPAL JAN 2012 www.ecs.com.np

FEATURES

60 FABRIC OF SOCIETY COVER STORY From its distinct colors to its weave, no fabric is more Nepali than . 48 ONE VOICE By Niraj Karki Madan Krishna Shrestha and Hari Bansa Acharya’s comedic acts 66 A PASSAGE BACK IN TIME have long been the voice of and A family of artists and photographers hold the key to a passage back in time to the Nepal of for the lay Nepali. older days. By Prawin Adhikari By Utsav Shakya

70 VIVAHA PANCHAMI comes alive each year to relive its glorious, mythological past. By Charlie Das Udasin

ON THE COVER 74 ONWARDS AND UPWARDS Madan Krishna Shrestha Some do it for fun, some to conquer; others and Haribansa Acharya

apparently do it for enlightenment. ECS Media PHOTOGRAPHY: By Pat Kauba PIX (The Light Sketch) [email protected]

ECS NEPAL JAN 2012 www.ecs.com.np ECS REGULARS 44 22 EDITORIAL 128 SPILLED INK 130 HERITAGE TALE NOTICE BOARD 24 MARKET 28 EVENT LIVING IN NEPAL 36 PLACE: Towards the growing mountains 38 FOOD: Time to teach 40 CULTURE: Packets of tradition 42 ART: Art for the people ECS Media 44 HERITAGE: Heritage under the sun 46 PAGETURNER: Beyond the Holy Border

CRAFT 108 102 CRAFT RIGHT NOW 104 REVIEWS: Crafted in The Village 106 IN THE STUDIO WITH: Newari craft revisited 108 ART SHOP: Sustainable Solutions TRAVEL 112 TRAVEL NEWS 114 REVIEWS: Sanctuary away from home 116 PEOPLE ON GO: A relentless adventurer 118 GOOD TO KNOW: Before you Hit the road

We endorse the recycling

of our magazine and would ECS Media encourage you to pass it on to others to read when you have finished with it. 114

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ECS NepalNepalMa Magazine,gazine Kupondole, K Lalitpur, Nepal (Regd. 113/059-060). Tel: 5011571, 5011639 Website: www.ecs.com.np No. 125 J JANUARY 2012

Publisher: ECS MEDIA PVT. LTD. Contributing Editor: DON MESSERSCHMIDT Design Executive: MANJESH MAHARJAN Sr. Photographer: DASH B. MAHARJAN Admin Executive: SHRUTI SINGH Managing Editor: SUNIL SHRESTHA Consulting Editor: DINESH RAI Assistant Design Executives: Photographers: HARI MAHARJAN, UMESH Account Executive: JEENA TAMRAKAR Director, Editorial & Marketing: NRIPENDRA KARMACHARYA Assistant Editor: UTSAV SHAKYA DIPESH MAHARJAN, ANJAN ALE BASNET, SUYESH RAJ SHRESTHA, Sr. Executive, Subscription & Distribution: Group Editor: ANIL CHITRAKAR Editorial Co-ordinator: LIZBETH LUCKSOM BIKRAM SHRESTHA Design Assistants: SUNIL MAHARJAN, RABINDRA PRAJAPATI Sr. Manager, Editorial & Marketing: SUDEEP MAN SHAKYA HR Executive: PRAGYA POKHREL Subscription & Marketing Executive: SMRITI SHRESTHA Manager, Editorial & Marketing: NEERAZ KOIRALA, Editorial Enquiries:[email protected] Assistant Manager, Sales & Marketing: ATULYA ACHARYA CHARU S. MALHOTRA Web Developer: MANISH SINGH BIJENDRA PRADHAN, ANGIRAS MANANDHAR Subscription Assistant: PRERANA Manager, Editorial & Promotion: NILADRI S. PARIAL Sr. Sales Executive: SACHIN TAMRAKAR AMATYA, ALIZA AMATYA, SUJAN Legal Adviser: HIRA REGMI Assistant Sales Executives: NIRBHEEK SUBEDI SHRESTHA, RABIN MAHARJAN, Sales Assistant: BIVEK RAJKARNIKAR, RAJARAM NAGARKOTI BABISH MAHARJAN | | Color Separation:CTP Nepal Pvt. Ltd. HATTIBAN, 525.0466/68 Printing:JAGADAMBA PRESS, HATTIBAN, 525.0017/18/19 Distributor:RB News Ad Enquiries:[email protected] ECS SERVICES Director: RAM SHRESTHA ECS NEPAL Magazine (ISSN 1729-2751) is published 12 times a year at the address above. All rights reserved in respect of all articles, illustration, photography, etc published in ECS Nepal Magazine. The contents of Tusal, Maharajgunj, , Nepal this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part in any form without the written consent of the publisher. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, who cannot accept 442.6439, [email protected] responsibility for any errors or omissions. All editorial inquiries and submissions to ECS Nepal Magazine must be addressed to [email protected] EACH ISSUE: Rs. 100.00 in Nepal, ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION IN NEPAL: Rs 900.00 (For 12 issues). Send all subscription request to ECS NEPAL Magazine, E-mail: [email protected], website: www.ecs.com.np Our sister publications

ECS NEPAL JAN 2012 www.ecs.com.np 48 ECS Media

COMEDY IS KING Throughout human history people have always resorted to They are leaders in their areas of work and many look up to humour as one refuge that has always worked to convey the them. Please take time out to meet them. most unpopular messages, and in the most repressive political If there is one thing that is common to all human beings systems. In Nepal humour has its special place too and while globally, it must surely be the love of good tasty food. Anyone many people think they have mastered the art of comedy, few who has been following the masterchefseries, must also real- are actually good at it. Like people all over the world, ize that food cooking, the utensils, the kitchen and everything enjoy political satire and the people who have mastered this that goes with cooking are all going to make up a huge part art are Madan Krishna and Hari Bansa. They have become of new economy. The key ingredient that makes up the food household names for the past four decades. They are still the industry; and in fact, a large part of trade across the globe for leaders and way ahead of the curve. During the thirty years thousands of years is species. People sailed all over the globe of the partyless Panchayat system, when there was one state for spices and bought and sold them for such a high profi t owned radio, one English and Nepali broadsheet daily news- margin that it remains a lucrative business to be in. Can you papers each, no TV and phones were sold in the black market, imagine your food without any spices? We are going to take a Madan Krishna and Hari Bansha were out there mostly at night close look at spices for you this month. on the open traditional stages, the “dabali”, across the valley As we start the New Year 2012 we need to stay optimistic. to perform. The people today enjoy political freedom and we We need to understand and internalize the fact that the environ- must take this chance to thank these amazing individuals for ment, the economy and social challenges are here to stay for all they have done. Let us hope people do not take freedom a while. Human beings are perfectly capable of solving them of speech for granted now that we have it. The Nepali people as long as we are ready to unite and tackle them collectively have paid a heavy price for it. for the greater good. At ECS NEPAL we shall do our part to Many of these traditional spaces – the dabalis, where the make the New Year as special as possible. Whatever you are MaHa events took place are under threat of encroachment doing this year, we hope you make some time and space for and need to be preserved. Perhaps MaHa can help us with a the Nepali way. campaign to do this. The two have greater credibility in society than any politician alive today.In this issue of ECS NEPAL we are also featuring some other people who you have to get to know much better. They are not the kind of individuals whom you see in the evening news or the morning papers, but are the Anil Chitrakar ones who help Nepal stay the course. They are determined, Group Editor they are skilled and they love this country and care about it. [email protected]

www.ecs.com.np NOTICE BOARD MARKET | EVENT

MARKET Hotel Heritage Sagarmatha Apartments Located in the safe and convenient neighborhood of Sanepa-2, Sagarmatha Apartments has a unique setting with a combination of different size service apartment units. They range from from single and two bedroom apartments to budget and luxury accommodations, for those seeking either short or long term stay in Lalitpur. All the service apartment units have soft carpet flooring. Sagarmatha Apartments’ features include fully serviced and fully furnished apartments, provision of a babysitter on demand, complimentary breakfast, grocery shopping on request, complimentary newspapers, free weekly laundry services, complimentary mineral water, a snacks and cookies Situated in Bhaktapur, Hotel Heritage The hotel quality is enhanced by the shop, cable TV, around-the-clock on-site is the very first deluxe hotel of this town beauty of its two gardens. The bigger security, emergency backup power, internet and the first real boutique hotel in Nepal. of the two, the Chakha front garden connection, fire detection and fighting system. Built in the traditional architecture of the is used for parties and cultural events Kathmandu valley, some pieces such as the while the smaller Kumari garden is more marble and stone floors are from a 400 private and is the perfect place for those Christmas and year-old palace. Every one of the 25 rooms who prefer intimacy. Inside the hotel, is decorated in a unique style balancing the Kutumba restaurant provides both New Year Scheme contemporary comfort with ancestral design. international and Nepalese cuisine, à la 11 of the rooms offer deluxe comfort in a Carte and in a buffet style. All ingredients from FedEx classic Nepalese ambience. The other 14 used in its kitchen are organic and are rooms are decorated in the same exquisite mostly sourced from local producers. taste and are only slightly smaller. Prices start at US $100.

SHIRLEY BREDAL KTM

Scandinavian high-end design is now Everest De Cargo Pvt. Ltd., Licensee of available in Kathmandu. Shirley Bredal FedEx Express for Nepal since 2002, has KTM is designed by Danish designer launched a special festive scheme for Shirley Bredal and is a recognized brand the upcoming Christmas and New Year in Scandinavia and other European 2012 under which all the gift shipments countries. The collection has received booked at FedEx Service Centers will be large interest from the press. It has provided with a special discount of up to been featured in Vogue Bambini and 50%. The scheme will be applicable in all Collezione. The collections from the three FedEx Service Centers at Kantipath, store are an eco-friendly line, focusing Kamaladi & Pulchowk and valid till 7th on natural fibers and safe Azo-free dye. January 2011. Many of the designs are finer hand knits, from 12-6.30 pm. Shirley Bredal KTM while others are stitched - all in vintage is located in Thamel, on the first floor of FedEx Express is an express transportation inspired design with a modern fit. The Funky Buddha Restaurant, next to Vashali company, delivering services in more than store is launching its Autumn Winter hotel. For further information, log on to 220 countries and territories including collection now. It is open 7-days a week www.shirleybredal.com. (Nimma Adhikari) every U.S. address.

24 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np

NOTICE BOARD MARKET Marmot available in United Brands Text By NIMMA ADHIKARI

armot, one of America’s top outdoor sector that makes camping outdoor brands, is now in and trekking much more easier. Apart the market. United Brands from these, Marmot also specializes Pvt. Ltd is the sole autho- in bags, pants and T-shirts and other rizedM distributor of Marmot and Lowe items necessary for outdoor activi- Alpine in Nepal. The company aims ties. Winter wear like jackets and at providing qualitative and durable jumpers are also available at products at affordable price and ensures United Brands. The products comfort in its product’s use. used for outdoor activities The genuine Marmot products are are quite different from the guaranteed by United Brands since it regular ones. This is because is the only authorized distributor of outdoor activities require Marmot for Nepal. This company, enthusiasts to stay out in ex- which deals with outdoor clothing and treme weather conditions. sporting goods was founded in 1973 These products are made by two students from the University up of breathable fabrics : of . In the span they are water and wind- of 38 years, the company proof, and lightweight. has expanded its ser- Marmot focuses on the vices and distributes quality of the product and its products to over at the same time is widely 44 countries. It has acclaimed for its relatively received numerous low price. The products awards for its quality, manufactured by Marmot one being the Back- are the best for trekkers, packer magazine’s Ed- itor’s Choice for their Oracle jacket. Marmot has been recognized the world over Marmot has been recognized the world for manufacturing sleeping bags, tents and over for manufactur- down jackets in the outdoor sector that makes ing sleeping bags, tents and down jackets in the camping and trekking much more easier.

hikers and mountaineers to keep them are available at the store. Understand- safe and comfortable during any harsh ing the difference between the bodies weather. Marmot products are also of men and women, Lowe Alpine bag available in different sizes for men, packs are especially designed exclusively women and children. for different genders according to their UB store is also the au- requirements. Backpacks with creative thorized dealer of the load organization system, both internal European brand, Lowe and external are available which are Alpine bag packs for especially designed for people who outdoor activities. Dif- like to organize their load differently ferent kinds of back- in different compartments. All sizes of packs for expeditions, Lowe Alpine backpacks from 15 to 95 trekking, hiking, cy- liters-capacity are available. cling, day travel and United Brands is located at Marg belted backpacks in Thamel, opposite the Himalayan Bank. ■

26 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np

NOTICE BOARD EVENT

Christmas Cake Mixing Ceremony The PPP Project A Christmas cake mixing ceremony wine and other spirits. These ingredients was performed on 18 November at the are mixed and kneaded and then stored Everest Hotel. The Christmas cake mixing for ageing. The aged ingredients will ceremony is held a few months prior to again be blended with the cake batter Christmas and is a formal traditional to make traditional Christmas cake and announcement of the arrival of the other celebratory goodies. cherished festival. A Christmas cake is not a simple pastry; A traditional Christmas cake is prepared an elaborate preparation is done at least by mixing rich dry fruits like apricots, figs, a month before the date that involves prunes, raisins, tutti-frutti, black currants, members of families bonding together different nuts, orange peels, ground and sharing the joys and happiness the cinnamon, cardamom, cloves along with festival brings along. (Nimma Adhikari)

AWON’s Christmas Bazaar

GIZ (Deutsche Gesellschaft fur Internationale Zussamenarbeit) GmbH in partnership with Gorkha Tea Estate (GTE) and TeeGeschwendner (TG) organized an event on the “Private Public Partnership for Organic Tea Promotion in Ilam” on 21 November in Kathmandu. Through the PPP Project, Gorkha Tea Estate (GTE) has been able to capacitate over 200 smallholder-farmer households towards attaining future market security. The smallholder-farmers are fetching almost double (NPR 45-50) the market average rate for a kilo of green leaves. Chief Guest Mr. Jhalanath Khanal said, “A successful organic initiative like this one Active Women of Nepal (AWON) textiles, paintings, brass and metal ware, should not just be scaled up in the tea organized their annual Christmas sculptures, photographs, felt products, subsector but also be replicated in other Bazaar to raise funds for disadvantaged tree decorations, jewelry and much more. agriculture subsectors,” referring to the girls and sustain their school libraries Apart from the alluring stalls, there was PPP project. among other welfare programs. Clad B-Boying, a jumping castle and other in colorful attire and talking their hearts entertainment to engage children in the out, small clusters of people managed to Kids’ Zone. The raffle ticket winners were constantly gush in, making the fundraiser announced by AWON President Pamela event a grand success. The one-day Poon who shared, “It is actually amazing Christmas Bazaar was filled with stalls that this is happening. Everyone goes of more than 100 vendors exhibiting a away happy. There’s this Christmas spirit variety of clothing, candles, carpets and and everyone is all smiles.”

Three Days of Himalayan Odyssey The Nepali partner of the project, GTE is a private company established in 1994 Indian Culture Centre organized borrowing from each other in this part in Fikkal, Illam for the production of high Himalayan Odyssey, a three day event of the world,” said Prasad, in terms quality orthodox tea. Similarly, TG - one of on Himalayan Pilgrimage: Mountains as of language and culture. He quoted the biggest tea retailers in with Stories, Rivers as Tales across two different the poet Kalidas and gave a detailed about 25% of the specialized tea trade venues – Bal Mandir and Patan Durbar geographical background of the - is the German partner. GTE is the first Square from 2 to 4 December. Himalayas. IMO ( based) and EU certified In his inaugural remark at the opening The three-day festival of mountains organic tea in Nepal. Partners of the PPP ceremony, the Venerable Ngawang also featured a photo exhibition titled Project - GTE’s Chairman Mr. Udaya Tenzin Jangpo, talked about the religious “Divining the Mountain” at NAFA Chapagain, TG’s Managing Director Mr. dimension through the teachings of Gallery. Photographs by Mani Lama, Thomas Holz and GIZ’s Program Manager Padmasambhava. H.E. Jayant Prasad, Thomas L. Kelly and a few other Indian Mr. Horst Ammann spoke on the occasion. Ambassador of to Nepal, also photographers were on display. The event was followed by a tea tasting addressed the audience. “There is heavy (Nikita Tripathi) session hosted by Mr. Thomas Holz.

28 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np

NOTICE BOARD EVENT

Surya Nepal Asha Social Entrepreneuship World Elephant Awards Championship

ChangeFusion Nepal organized a ceremony on 21 November at Hotel Yak & Yeti to award the Nepal Asha Social Entrepreneurship Award (SNASEA) to five social entrepreneurs. The winners were shortlisted from 66 applicants; ventures were visited to verify all relevant information and documents.

The winners include Ram Sapkota The 30th World Polo Championship was (Mountain Delights Treks and Expedition held from 28 November to 2 December and Tukee Nepal, Jyamrung) , Sabita 2011. Various teams from Nepal, , Maharjan (Kirtipur Hosiery, Kirtipur), to network through ChangeFusion Nepal. Hong Kong, Switzerland, Mongolia and Shyam Badan Yadav (Kalash Milk Each of the winners will have to disclose Denmark competed against each other. The Industry, Dhorey Village, Parsa), Vijaya how the funds will be used and the money World Elephant Polo Association (WEPA) was Development Resource Centre’s (VDRC, will be handed over by ChangeFusion founded 27 years ago by James Manclark Nawalparasi) and Chhahari Services Nepal. Updates on each of the winning and the late Jim Edwards in Nepal. Since (Kathmandu). The winners will get a cash ventures will be regularly posted on then, the World Polo Championship has prize of Rs. 1 Lakh each from Surya Nepal ChangeFusion Nepal’s social media sites been held each year in Nepal by Tiger Tops, Private Limited along with the opportunity as well as on their official website. Chitwan National Park in Meghauli. International celebrities including Steven Segal and Ringo Starr have also participated at the sporting People in Change event in earlier championships. The has now transformed into a world series that requires both spirit and skill. The welfare of the elephants is prioritized as much as the success of the game. The sport supported by the WEPA has a format that is similar to horse polo. In the game, four elephants compete over two 10-minutes chukkas on a pitch one-third the size of a horse polo pitch. The elephants in the game are controlled by the mahouts, while the players seated on their backs play with extra long polo sticks. (Nimma Adhikari)

CG Electronics is now ISO 9001: 2008 certified CG Electronics Pvt. Ltd., a leading consumer electronics company of Nepal, has been the market leader for the last 30 years in its segment. This premier name in style and functionality in the electronic industry has Maki Gurung’s People During Change the state should never shy from now positioned itself as a frontrunner in the rises up to the challenge of blending voicing concerns and Maki Gurung increasingly competitive electronics market in modern art with “Nepalipan” without any excels here too. “Art is political”, it Nepal by being awarded the ISO 9001:2008 compromise. First of all, the oil-pastel says on a small introduction to the certificate. The company received this certificate on traditional Lokta paper is a double exhibition, alluding to the inspiration for offering its consumers world class electronic dose of textures. The paint seeps out behind the art work. There are texts products made under strict quality controls as the coarse surface of the heavy paper and prose that accompany the art well as for its efficient sales service. leaving behind bright impastos and (courtesy of an associated act of smooth transitions pushing the subject Maki’s) verbalizing the suffering of the CG Electronics gives special attention to its after into the center of the frame. At times, deprived and the oppressive routine sales services, added to which, they also have you will be convinced the paper must be of the depraved. introduced toll free numbers for their customers to dyed to display such natural colors, but contact them from anywhere in Nepal. It has not A prime example of balance – from it isn’t. Against solid backgrounds, an only made the lifestyle of the consumer better but the finest details to the extensive oasis of colors ripple across the portraits, also, their life a whole lot easier. CG Electronics activism, the medium and the accentuating the undercurrents, like an deals in products like LED TVs, LCD TVs, CRT message – everything is bracketed in infrared filter tapping into the visceral TVs, DVD players, home theaters, refrigerators, a conscious and passionate approach anguish that is ablaze. washing machines, microwave ovens, air that leaves little to distract the viewer conditioners, vacuum cleaners, chest freezers, Political commentary adds to the from the exhibition’s real message. mobiles, rice cookers, irons, inverters, lightings, Nepalipan. Interest in the welfare of (Nischal Oli) batteries, monitors, UPS, et cetera. (Nimma Adhikari)

30 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np

NOTICE BOARD EVENT

Documenting Music Heritage Challenges and future directions personal experience, providing for for Nepal, a UNESCO sponsored a global perspective on challenges symposium on preserving historical and fruitful efforts in preserving heritage kicked off with an introduction traditional music and instruments. by UNESCO Country Representative The second session, moderated Axel Plathe, Minister of Federal Affairs by Bhim Nepal, compromised of Gopal Kiraty and Ambar Gurung Nepali scholars and leaders in the of the Nepal Academy of Music field of conservation. Their papers and Drama. After briefly discussing simultaneously accentuated the wealth the importance and intangibility of of Nepali traditions while delving cultural inheritance, the podium was into the obstacles that are prevalent cleared for scholars who were invited in conservational undertakings. Both to present their papers. The first sessions were followed by a rebuttal session, moderated by Prof. Dr. Abhi from the moderator with an endnote Subedi, brought on stage international by Til Bikram Nembang, Chancellor, participants who elaborated on their Nepal Academy. Philanthropic Art his works and all proceeds generated from the auction will go to Help Nepal’s school construction project. Help Nepal Network is the largest network of Nepalis from all over the world based in Kathmandu. The organization aims to encourage Nepalis over the world to provide assistance in Visual artist Kapil Mani Dixit collaborated health and education sectors of rural with the Help Nepal Network in an Nepal. The organization gets help from effort to raise funds for the nonprofit nationals living in , Austria, organization Help Nepal. The U.S. Sweden, Saudi Arabia and U.S.A., trained artist auctioned nearly 20 of among others.(Pawas Manandhar) Cake mixing at Yak and Yeti

Yak and Yeti hotel organise its personal touch, playing with the spices very own cake mixing on 2nd of and their amount: “it is a Yak and Yeti December, first taste of festivities special from the recipe to the people before Christmas. 15 staff members who are involved to make it”. But the of the 5 stars hotel were asked to 65 kg of cake will not be tasted before become cook for a few minutes and 3 weeks, the first mix being just of dry mix together on a table the 21 first fruits, spices, sugar, caramel, butter, rum ingredients of the Christmas cake and beer needing to marinate for quite recipe. Based on the original recipe a while. It took less than 15 minutes of the traditional British pudding, the and lots of fun for the participants to bakery chef of Yak and Yeti Mr Pratap complete their task. Now, all have to be Mohan Dhaubhadel added his own patient till the final baking.

what’s on things to do this month

impress everyone with the quality of your Booze and Blues MISCELLANEOUS English communication. Date: 7 January (Saturday) Les De Festivités at IST Cost: Rs. 6,500 Date: 29 January (Sunday) Time: 3 pm onwards RSR Beach Volleyball Tournament Venue: House of Music, Thamel Venue: IST College premises, Dillibazaar Starting Date: 13 January (Friday) If you’ve got the blues and want to drain it out 4434185 Closing Date: 15 January (Sunday) of your system, with a little help from some On 29 January 2012 International School of Time: 7:15 am onwards Booze and Blues; House of Music is the place Tourism and Hotel Management will welcome Venue: Kurintar, Chitwan to be. Feel the Blues music cleanse and refresh the new comer students of the season with 5544263, 5546696 your mind and body relaxing you to the fullest, various events featuring dance, music, drama, Mr. and Miss Fresher Competition (talent hunt) and The annual Volleyball tournament organized READ of course with the glass of your favorite drink by Riverside Spring Resort is back again. The beside you. Live performances by the likes of other forms of entertainment. Also, to mention: event will take place on the white sands of Ashes & Nekhvam and Double Trouble are all a well-catered meal will be provided to all the the Trisuli River on the banks of Kurintar. set to make this Saturday evening a very bluesy invitees. The event will be held within the college At a distance of 102 kilometers from one. premises itself with an estimated audience of Kathmandu, the resort is a popular getaway Entry: Rs. 150 more than 300. for families, corporate groups, student Ekphrasis groups and tourists alike. Eight corporate MUSIC AND PARTIES Date: 4 February (Saturday) teams participated in the tournament last Time: 5 pm to 8 pm year, including leading banks, corporate Winter Breakdown An amalgamation of art, fashion and theatre, houses, hotels, insurance companies and Date: 14 January (Saturday) Ekphrasis is an avant-garde movement that other institutions. The tournament is held Time: 1 pm onwards hopes to exhibit the artistic performances of the every year to promote building friendly ties Venue: iClub, Durbar Marg people involved. The event, organized by Silence between corporate organizations and team- Dance and Groove to electro or hiphop music at Entertainment, is the brain child of Milan Rai, a building. Supported by the Nepal Volleyball iClub at the Winter Breakdown party hosted by Nepali artist. Embracing various forms of art, the Association, the tournament is also open Shadow Gurlz and SANK events this January. The event will be built around performance art by to individuals representing an organization. event will feature some of the best commercial actors, models, sculptors and poets. Each team will need to consist of three EAT houses and upbeat-RnB music, for all the dancing members. A two-night-three-day event is shoes round the city. With music from the likes English Training Course Date: 5 January also scheduled to be followed by a pool of DJ Nir, DJ Joy and DJ Ray, the party is all set to party on Saturday. This open event seems to break-it-down winter style. Morning Session: 7 am to 8.30 am, 8.30 am to 10 am be the perfect escape for anyone looking to spend some time outside the bustling city. Entry: Rs. 300 for advance purchase, Rs. 999 at Evening Session: 5 pm to 6.30 pm the door Venue: CareerMaster, Pulchowk, Lalitpur Cost: 30,000 5524891 FAIR AND EXPO Learn the secrets of International Family Fair Standard English communication Date: 14 January (Saturday) skills from in the 12 days executive Time: Noon onwards English training program hosted Venue: Hotel Malla, Thamel by CareerMaster. The course is 4418385, 4410320, 4410966 preferred by many professionals The Family Fair is a family event packed with and is said to be the right course activities, a first for Hotel Malla. There will be for the Go-ahead Professionals. competitions, magic shows, and face painting; to If you are not comfortable top that cuteness, Shirley Bredal Kathmandu will with using English language showcase their collection. Parents looking to while communicating at your spend some time with their kids will definitely workplace, then this course admire the setting and the event. is just the thing you need to

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LIVINGPLACE | PEOPLE | CULTUREIN | ART | HERITAGE NEPAL| PAGETURNER

PLACE Towards the growing mountains Picturesque villages and the magnifi cent Mt. Gauri Shanker make a trek to Kalinchowk worthwhile. Text By KAPIL BISHT

s you alight from the bus in Dolakha, the immensity of Mt. Gauri Shanker rises in front of you like a great wall. A white Aserrated wall of peaks forms the backdrop to the trek to Kalinchowk. A dirt road runs up to Kalinchowk and to villages beyond it. Sporadic buses and jeeps work this route, crammed with passengers. This form of travel is advisable only if you are either physically unfi t to trek, or if your destination is beyond Kalinchowk. The trek is at times rigorous and even monotonous for some stretches, but the scenic delights are not avail- able to those confi ned in a vehicle. An hour from the town of Dolakha, the trail passes through picturesque villag- ECS Media es. The biggest building in these villages is often a monastery - a colorful structure, standing out amidst neatly raked fi elds. Prayer fl ags blow in the wind. A novelist Those who start out from Dolakha to the shrine is tiring, but the view from it would ask for nothing but a room in these around mid-day reach Kalinchowk usu- spectacular. If tradition is adhered to and little houses only to spend hours gazing at ally in the evening, just in time to see the the shrine is climbed from the western the mountains each day before penning a mountains glow in the sun’s last light. The side, then you have to climb an iron stair- complete sentence. sinking sun drags away the light from the case that spans a narrow but deep crevice. There is only one house between the refulgent mountains, turning them into However, there is a less frightening path last village on the trail and Kalinchowk. silhouettes. Lights come on in the village from the eastern side. The shrine, devoid Otherwise, only pylons that run along the below. Above, the sky glitters with stars. of an idol, is a simple collection of bells trail remind you that people have been To the north of the tiny village of Kuri, hanging from wooden bars and a heap of through this place. The trail from here which is another name for Kalinchowk, rusty tridents. A small pit symbolizes the onwards is a bit dreary as the forest shields looms a dark hill. On its peak is the shrine , into which you place your lamps the mountains from view only to reappear of the Kalinchowk Bhagwati, a venerated and mutter your prayers. Some of your occasionally framed by trees and branches. deity and sister of the equally revered dei- prayers seem to be answered as you rise Wind plays amongst the trees and dry pods ties of Kavre’s Palanchowk Bhagwati and to your feet and to look at the mountains of seeds whirr in the wind. Kathmandu’s Naxal Bhagwati. The climb glistening in the sun. ■

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LIVING IN NEPAL PEOPLE Time to teach Meet Christine Stone Text By PAT KAUBA

itting with Christine Stone is like here 30 years. Amazingly Christine has teachers in Nepal. She applied, prayed sharing moments in times pages; traversed those years without salary, only and… got the job. immersed in helping fellow man, by donations and gifts—mostly from pa- Christine fi rst went to Gorkha District with faith in the above; shared trons of the Church of Scotland, where for fi ve years at a government school, throughS a softly animated voice. Now in she is a member. then another fi ve in Gandaki her 70s Christine’s slight-frame is packed Christine has donated her life to Boarding School. She reminisces that her with energy. She shared her extraordinary teaching, calmly fueled by belief that it’s best experiences were reading to students life one chilly evening as her companion God’s wish. Yesterday she gave training evening-time. In Nepal nobody ever read Nirmaya, a Scottish Border Collie, cuddled to teachers from remote Doti District, stories, but with a stack of Ladybird books into her lap. Around Sanepa’s streets she while tomorrow she’s training at the Christine ignited fi res. By the end she was is known as ‘the woman with the dog in British Council. Rich, poor, privileged reading classics like Les Miserables; even the basket’ zooming by bicycle between or not means little; Christine comes with teachers asked her to read to them too. appointments. perspective and humor that can only In the last few years Room To Read, an “If I were to look in my planner, I can come from a life lived. INGO promoting libraries for children, tell you I am booked for the next year”. Christine is an educator, teacher to all levels; prepares curriculums; writes chil- While doing her degree in Physics in Bristol dren’s books; consults for government and private schools; helping just about University Christine was surprised to start finding anybody who asks. She knows Nepal like a love for God and his gift of life. the back of her wizened hands, living

Her own childhood has commissioned Christine to cre- started in Hong Kong to an ate Nepal’s fi rst children’s books with army dad and loving mother characters like Tommy Tempo, before World War II. As the Rickshaw and Birke Bagh. Teaching Japanese advanced Christine lessons like: sharing, consideration for and her mother were put on others and winning is not everything. a boat and dropped onto a Presented with illustrations by artists random Australian beach. like Ajay Thapa; a child Christine read Dad was captured in Singa- to many years ago. pore in 1941, spending the Forty years has taken Christine on vari- war under brutal conditions, ous journeys: Scotland teaching troubled building the Bridge Over The children; remote Tristin d’Akuna Island River Kwai. When the war between and South America, ended the family reunited, where boats only came thrice a year; Ethio- but soon sent Christine to pia, Nepal and more than text allows. a Christian girls school in Christine recognizes that her window Cyprus, which she detested to set up a life back in Scotland gets more than any prison. smaller, yet she comes with the buoyant While doing her de- outlook that she’s doing what she’s meant gree in Physics in Bristol to; happy with her simple room, hot water University Christine was bottle and loving Nirmaya for company. surprised to start fi nding Kind, humble and giving, Christine a love for God and his gift Stone’s life seems the fullest. She is a testa- of life. She became a fol- ment to the value of life lived for others. ■ lower and after her degree read an advertisement by Pat Kauba is a freelance storyteller with a love for teachers. Contact him at [email protected].

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LIVING IN NEPAL CULTURE Packets of tradition Preparing Masala for Bhai Tika can be a wholesome activity that links people with their community. Text By UTSAV SHAKYA

packet of masala is a treasured For one, the shopping takes you to the busiest, part of the Bhai Tika ritual Battle during the Hindu festival of traditional marketplaces in Nepal – places like Tihar. Gifting an assortment Aof dried fruits to the brother by the Makhan Tole, Ason Bazaar and Chowk in of the sister at the end of the ritual – which the older section of Kathmandu. celebrates the bond between brothers and sisters - is a popular tradition. Its popularity is not so surprising; besides would take the trouble of shopping for up a polythene bag for us in no time with being delightful in its taste and interest- the ingredients themselves. There are cashew nuts, raisins, walnuts, dates, co- ingly varied in texture, the contents of a entire shops in places like Makhan Tole conut, almonds, cardamom, candy sugar Rooms masala pack have many health benefi ts. and Indrachowk dedicated to selling ev- (mishri), cinnamon, pistachio, dried There are exact references in Nepal’s erything that goes into a good packet of apricots and dried fi gs, tweaking the cultural history how this tradition came masala. Today, for a range of prices cor- traditional offering by adding candies, to be but the reasons might be more responding to the extravagance of the mints and chewing gum. For the other practical than one would think. One idea assortment and packaging, readymade stuff, we shopped in a few more shops takes into account how brothers walk masala packs are available at modern in the jam packed Makhan Tole, behind long distances to partake in the Bhai department stores. the Basanatapur Durbar Square. Tika rituals with their married sisters. This year, my sister and I accompa- After a hard morning’s work, pack- The traditiona of gifting masala could nied our father to a shop in the same aging done and munching on some have started as a caring sister’s healthy, building as the Akash Bhairab temple in extra roasted cashews, I looked up the snack pack for her brother as he made Indra Chowk to shop for the good stuff. benefi ts these things had. There’s quite way back home. Another idea is that the The owner promptly took out a check- a few: fi gs, apricots and raisins are rich ritual was borne out of the single reason list of ingredients and marked them as in calcium and phosphorus, essential for that masala helps with digestion. my father - who’s consistently prepared healthy bones and teeth while the folic The tradition however, like many great masala over the years - listed out acid in apricots and raisins contribute, others is changing. In older days, people what we needed. A young assistant fi lled along with Vitamin B12, to the develop- VS ment of red globules in our blood. As a good source of fi ber, what was in my masala, would also maintain my digestive system and prevent constipation. Personally, as someone who looks forward to the packet every year and who was recently initiated into shopping for one, I’m all for the older tradition of preparing malasa at home. For one, the shopping takes you to the busiest, tra- ditional marketplaces in Nepal – places like Makhan Tole, Ason Bazaar and Indra Chowk in the older section of ! Kathmandu. Bustling with activity - old . 1,00,000 shops and new, shoppers (also old and new), roadside vendors and maddening traffi c, these locations come closest to what shopping in the older days must have looked like. Two, it keeps you con- nected to a community of small shops,

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Visit www.teenz.com.np for more information. LIVING IN NEPAL ART Art for the people An increasing number of people are taking art out of the galleries and to the public. Text By BENJAMIN GRAHAM

“ n the beginning, I would walk into a student is now the Neighborhood Arts could use a lot more art. “Art is basic. the middle of the bahal (courtyard) Center in Yatkha Bahal. It helps kids right where they’re at,” she with a backpack full of art sup- Six mornings a week, children ages 5 explains. After she had been running plies and the kids would come to 14 gather in a rented room that opens the Neighborhood Arts Center for a running,”I Sharareh Bajracharya says. into the bahal. Bajracharya hands out few months, some of the parents asked “Paint supplies were more diffi cult to supplies and gives the students a few if she could help the children with their manage, so we made a lot of collages instructions, but she mainly encourages homework after school, and leave the with whatever we could fi nd.” them to be creative. For her, the art is not art for before school. “It was a mess,” That was two years ago, when Ba- the point, it’s a means to an end. With she says of the experience. “There were jracharya was still a student at the Kath- three separate degrees in education, students in third grade who couldn’t mandu University Center for Art & De- Bajracharya identifi es herself primarilyy sign (KUArt). Today, she’s a professor at as an educator, not as an artist. Yet inn KUArt and the small project she started as her opinion, Nepal’s education systemm

That was two years ago, when Bajracharya was still a student at the Kathmandu University Center for Art & Design. ECS Media

42 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np ouvenir Shop S A House of Souvenirs

Chitrakar, who was one of the professors that helped Bajracharya develop her Neighborhood Arts Center, has used a variety of methods to work towards this basic goal. Souvenir Shop provides ONE STOP SHOP for Souveniers sound out words. A lot of them had varying from home furnishing, been pushed through to higher grades before they had actually learned what block print suits, kurties, they needed to learn.” “I could never especiality of Nepal-pashmina work in a school,” Bajracharya says. The focus is on the textbook, or stoles, sweater etc. So step in “reciting,” as she calls it. The system for something EXCLUSIVE.EXCLUSIVE. helps advanced students stay ahead, but leaves those who are already be- hind, further behind. In her opinion, art addresses the whole child. “You mostt ttraditionalditi l artt ini NepalN l revolvesl can’t lie when you’re making art. Kids around religion,” Chitrakar explains. are allowed to be honest, and allowed His most recent project, entitled ‘Let’s to think outside of the box.” Talk about Art’, directly addressed the Bajracharya plans to develop an artist minimal exposure the former kind of residency program in Yetkha Bahal in art garners. Chitrakar, who was one of the future. Aspiring artists would act as the professors that helped Bajracharya volunteer teachers in the morning and develop her Neighborhood Arts Center, after school, and would be able to use has used a variety of methods to work the space as a studio during the day. Like towards this basic goal. As part of his the rest of the arts center, she plans on last exhibition, the artist attached a note paying for this out of her own pocket. card baring his simple slogan to balloons While the art classes will help the stu- and released them into the air. His hope dents develop their creativity and sense was that a conversation about art would of individuality, the residency program begin wherever the messages landed. would expose the larger community to “In school, they tell you this apple should Kathmandu’s contemporary art scene be red and you need to stay in the lines. *A sister concern of ExclusiveExclusive TextileTextile as well. Sujan Chitrakar, program coor- Teachers even expect your words to be dinator at KUart, shares Bajracharya’s the same,” he says. “Exposing regular Opp. Fire & Ice, Tridevi Marg, Thamel, aspiration to bridge the gap between people to art is empowerment. It allows Kathmandu, Nepal. contemporary art and the average a person, no matter how small, to express Nepali. “Contemporary art is more his or her own voice. It helps you to think Tel: 0977-1-4422483 about individuality and the ego, whereas differently, or at least independently.” ■ Mob: 00977-98020-13691 e-mail: [email protected] LIVING IN NEPAL HERITAGE Heritage under the sun One of the longest standing monuments in Nepal, has witnessed the rise and fall of several dynasties and cultures in Kathmandu valley. Text By NIMMA ADHIKARI

asthamandap, meaning wooden pavilion is rumored to have been built out of a single tree. The tree, as the story follows, Kprovided enough material not only for the structure of Kasthamandap but also for the Singha sattal and a bihara near the monument as well. There are no records that directly point to the date of the construction of the building but one of the tamrapatras inside the monument dates back to the 14th century Bikram Sambat (Nepali calendar). Some claim it to be the largest and the oldest build- ing in Nepal. There are several legends that speak about how the monument of Kastha- ECS Media mandap came to be. Singh, the Executive Director of Dhoka Durbar Museum Development Com- mittee, shares the most popular legend. Although there are variations of this legend, the In the time of King Laxmi Narsingha, when the Matsyendranath rath yatra was only consistency remains with the concept of a in procession in Kathmandu valley, Ka- single tree being used for its construction. lpabrikshya took human form and came to the valley to witness the procession. One of the priests in the procession Ranjitkar, the Nepal Program Director of Singh explains the other important recognized Kalpabrikshya and captured Kathmandu Valley Preservation Trust “If feature of the monument. There are only him. When Kalpabriksha vowed that he the ground fl oor is open, i.e. not closed three images of Gorakhnath in Nepal. would provide materials for the construc- with brick walls, then we categorize it as The Gorakhnath being referred to is the tion of a monument, he was freed. He a mandap or sattal,” he adds. The entire same ascetic associated with King Prithvi then sent a large sal tree, the one used to structure rests on huge wooden pillars Narayan Shah who had blessed him with build Kasthamandap. that certainly are not found anywhere victory over any land he stepped on. Gora- Although there are variations of this near Kathmandu. There are porches in khnath is usually symbolized with a pair of legend, the only consistency remains with the building and Dr. Ranjitkar believes feet but Kasthamandap actually enshrines the concept of a single tree being used for that they must have been used as a place a statue of him making the monument its construction. The legend dates back to to lodge travelers. even more notable and extraordinary. the 17th century but there are evidences Singh and Dr. Ranjitkar agree that Kasthamandap is also one of the largest suggesting otherwise. Apart from a tam- one of the reasons behind the monu- and oldest wooden buildings and that too, rapatra inside the building dating back to ment’s popularity is the because the a social building. That gives it a reason to 14th century, reference of Kasthamandap capital city got its name from the be a topic of interest for people. can be found in other handwritten his- monument. This piece of information Heavy detailed carvings characteristic to torical documents dating back to as early backs the claim that the construction Malla period architecture is absent here, al- as 12th century in 1143. “Kasthamandap’s of Kasthamandap was completed much lowing experts to date it to the early days of purpose might have been more social earlier than the 17th century. Historians the same period. Dr. Ranjitkar believes that than religious, even though the monu- claim that the city got its name some 500 the monument has endured at least 8 to 10 ment is surrounded by different avatars years before the legend of the priest and major earthquakes and the monument we see of Ganesh on each corner and a statue of Kalpabriksha circulated during the rule today may or may not be the original design Gorakhnath in the front,” says Dr. Rohit of Laxmi Narsingha. of the centuries-old Kasthamandap. ■

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LIVING IN NEPAL PAGETURNER Beyond the Holy Border A Poet’s Odyssey to Manasarovar Text By BISHMA UPRETI

ere is the story of a trek Upreti also speaks about the act of through far west Nepal writing itself. While down in the hot Kar- and into Tibet to Lake nali river valley, he writes: “The more the Manasarovar and to the day progressed, the hotter the sun grew. footH of Mount Kailash. It is one of My impulses were triggered especially those rare (we wish there were more) when I sweated profusely, drenching my- true, insightful and personal trekker’s self... I was the one who lived in a city and tale by a Nepali. The writing is all the preached that we should toil and sweat. I more interesting because the author is was the one who used my writings to advo- a poet. cate hard work. Now I understood the real Here’s a snippet of his poetic prose: difference between talk and action.” “Manasarovar! Oh, blue nature! We came Later, higher up, he tells a wise and here, reaching forward in enthrallment. learned Buddhist monk that “Writing is We were drawn here in fascination of a fi ne thing. To write something true is your gracefulness and cordiality, bowing fi ner still and to write a thing that people our heads to your beauty and elegance! are not aware of yet is even better. I draw −

Oh, you! the blue lake Manasarovar!” ECS Media deep satisfaction from it; but at a time Like many such accounts, both the when money is all-important, writing thrills (fi rst sight of Lake Manasarovar doesn’t bring in much of a living.” To which the monk responds: “What is money worth in itself? Who has taken The more the day progressed, the hotter the sun money with themselves in death? A grew. My impulses were triggered especially when good name is greater. Money is a neces- sity but not the be all and end all. We also I sweated profusely, drenching myself... need respect and dignity.” Beyond the Holy Border is an interesting book, packed with some powerful im- and Mount Kailash) and the diffi cul- energy, we spread along the hilly road. ages and feelings, written by a sensitive ties (steep trails, long weary days) are We were so carefree! We fl oated on the observer. I recommend it, especially important to the story. So, too, is the waves of delight, we fl ew on the wings of for those bound in spirit or in fact to hospitality of people met in villages excitement...” And later, on a hard stretch: Manasarovar and Kailash. ■ along the way. “Struggling upwards... I experience life; I As a travelogue it also has personal feel alive. From a lofty stopping place... it Nonfiction. Fine Print Books, Jhamsikhel, and sometimes philosophical passages: is always refreshing to look back at one’s Lalitpur, Nepal, 120pp., fineprint.com.np, illus. Available in local bookstores. “After recharging ourselves with new own past, at one’s deeds and slips.” Distributed by: Gupta Trading House 335, 3rd floor, Bishal Bazaar, New Road Ph No: 01-4222813, 232199 mail: [email protected] fb: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Baggit-Nepal/226296100764031 Available at: Bling Store, Kumaripati House of Alternative Apparel, Lazimpat Anoos Boutique, Bhat Bhateni ECS Media

48 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np One voice MaHa’s satires have been instrumental in bringing forth the commoner’s plights. It helps that they’re also the country’s most beloved actors. Text PRAWIN ADHIKARI

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 49 ho is Dhruva Ram Pandit? mercurial that morning. He pumped the A hole seared right through the left seat. He is a guileless simpleton kerosene stove into a hot roar, put a clean What is a man to do, but cover it up with who can’t tell a straight pot on the stove and stuffed it with his damp a red heart-shaped cloth patch that read, story. After he finished turtleneck. It felt strange to sit before a hot “I Love You,” a gift from a miffed college “beingW employed for the day,” he went stove with something cooking in a pot and sweetheart? home, washed his only pair of work not take up a ladle to fold the turtleneck as Over their long career as a comedy duo, clothes and set them out to dry overnight. if he were cooking a curry. So, he did – he Madan Krishna Shrestha and Haribansa He cooked, ate, cleaned up, woke up the stirred the turtleneck lovingly, as if he were Acharya have given a larger number of next morning, cooked, ate, cleaned up and sautéing two potatoes and half the length of distinct personas to the fi eld of Nepali prepared to go to work. But his clothes a radish. Soon enough, the turtleneck was all comedy than any other group of per- were still damp. It was already ten o’clock done, nicely cooked and dry. Dhruva Ram formers. Dhruva Ram is just one of their in the morning. Dhruva Ram was run- was even more in awe of himself. numerous characters, and although played ning late for his work as a proofreader at And he had cooked with such single- by Haribansha in their landmark television Gorkhapatra Sansthan, the nation’s only minded devotion to his morning’s ruse that series Lalpurja, it is a creation of the duo, daily newspaper in Nepali, so he thought he forgot all about the electricity, which had of two minds so united in their worldview up a quick solution: iron his clothes dry, returned like a sulking, lovelorn son, slink- and artistry that they speak as one. During and then rush to work. ing out of the house one moment without interviews they often slip into the fi rst As he was ironing his trousers, the elec- permission, and thieving back in just as qui- person plural. “We think,” or, “We feel,” tricity went off. Load-shedding: never too etly, as if to evade a mother’s wrath. When or, “We are.” On screen and stage they far from a Kathmandu day. His mind – as Dhruva Ram returned to his trousers, they always play against each other: stingy father he boasted to himself – was something were busily smoking – “Phoos, phoos, phoos!” and moronic son, clueless landowner and ECS Media

On Work

50 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np Bigyapan Paralysis

Rastriya Gaun Khane Katha Saraddha Photos courtesy MaHa Sanchar

cunning tenant, smuggler and customs The civic conscience behind the art is as serious offi cer, politician and guard to the realm of the dead. Off-screen, in more intimate and thoroughly considered as the comedy acts and moments, they address the world as one voice. It is tempting to search for a chink in personae are an outlandish bouquet of buffoonery. the facade, a breach through which discord might fl ood out. But, even if it exists, it is not there for the public to see. the fi gures on the hoarding boards depict the octogenarian matriarch, Ama, who The public instead sees two faces to their various avatars from their long ca- intuitively understands the importance one civic conscience, two bodies to one reer. After the 2008 CA elections, a survey of voting, even at her ripe old age. The artistic idea. The civic conscience behind by the Election Commission showed that Western Union ad tells the people that the art is as serious and thoroughly con- a lot of voters had learned about the dif- Western Union can be trusted. But the sidered as the comedy acts and personae ference between proportional and direct trust really comes from the esteem the are an outlandish bouquet of buffoonery. elections from watching their shows Ama Nepali people invest in the MaHa duo. Look around town these days and you’ll and Madan Bahadur – Hari Bahadur. False It has been a long journey for these see them on advertisements of all descrip- moustache and a mole the size of a two- two men past their physical – and perhaps tions, promoting anything from a direct- rupee coin, for instance, for Madan Ba- artistic – prime, from the days of stage to-home satellite television package to hadur and Hari Bahadur’s advertisement performances against the establishment, international money transfers. Rarely do for Western Union: the latter stealing cash to public service television acts. Satire is they appear as the public fi gures Madan from the former’s pocket, both grinning their primary preoccupation, and humor Krishna and Haribansha; more frequently, at the camera. Or, a head of silver hair for the sauce with which they spice the nour-

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 51 Maha Dohori In May of 2010, the Maha duo was the main attraction at the Basantapur Durbar Square dabali, from where they addressed the Peace Rally: a crowd of people that had become fed up with the indefi nite siege under which the UNCP-Maoists wanted to place them. In unequivocal terms, Madan Krishna outlined what he thought were the rights that all Nepalis had fought for. His technique consisted of rhetorical questions to which the throng – hundreds of thousands strong, packed into and radiating away from the Durbar Square – intuitively knew the answer which they shouted in unison. He asked those who agreed with him to raise their hands, and hundreds of thousands of fi sts and palms shot up in the air. The black-dotted swarm of heads and faces and eyes veiled behind raised arms and hard fi sts or open

Photo courtesy MaHa Sanchar palms: if you had been there, witnessing both the moment and its signifi cance, you would have felt a chill bolting down your in 1990, they wore gags and blindfolded themselves, spine; your pulse would have quickened. and performed for the first People’s Movement. Soon And you would have known that you had witnessed something so momentous that after, the Panchayat regime was overthrown. years later, recounting that moment for others, you could with confi dence say that Madan Krishna’s rhetorical questions that ishment of social messages. This has been Lord of Dharma’s realm where tally is morning changed the shape of Nepali their method since, in the early eighties, kept of your karma and judgment passed, politics. The siege on the city was lifted audio cassettes entered middleclass life in rewards or punishment dispensed. the very next day. the urban centers of Nepal. Recordings How did these two men get to this After that rousing, honest speech, they of live performances of Yamalok sold so point where they are a political conscious- shed their public personae and became well that the MaHa duo could build houses ness representing a moderate, middle- Madan Bahadur and Hari Bahadur – two and start families, rescuing them from the path vision of compromise between men for whom, ostensibly, ethnicity or realities of desperation and depravity they extremes? True performers to the end, caste have stopped having meaning, so so often deal with in their work. But, there they have always perfectly timed their that they are both called Bahadurs: the was always risk involved in opposing a injection into any outrage: in 1990, they everymen of the hills. They attempted monolithic system like the Panchayat. “It wore gags and blindfolded themselves, to make the tense crowd laugh. It was was the age of audio. Any well off family and performed for the first People’s a strangely defl ating moment, especially had a cassette player. People were so scared Movement. Soon after, the Panchayat re- after their personal speeches which were to listen to the Yamlok skit that they locked gime was overthrown. In 2006, they came light-hearted and thoughtful, provoca- the doors and windows and posted a sentry to the front not only as vocal dissenters, tive and prescriptive, emphasizing the outside to make sure nobody caught them but also as the most trustworthy names basic humanity of those whom we put at in the act of listening to a MaHa cassette,” to start a fund for injured demonstra- inconvenience through our individual or they say. Why can’t you meet Kanun, Nyaya tors. Individuals from around the world political aspirations. Was there any need or Bikas in the streets of Kathmandu or contributed to the fund, without the bitter for levity that morning? The crowd knew villages of Nepal? Because, according to cynicism and accusations often reserved that after a few minutes it would have to the skit, Law, Justice and Development for public fi gures who step beyond the confront the batons and bricks of Maoist have died and gone off to Yamalok – the call of their vocation. cadres trucked in from around the coun-

52 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np “It was the age of audio. Any well off family had a cassette player. People were so scared to listen to the Yamlok skit that they locked the doors and windows and posted a sentry outside to make sure nobody caught them in the act of listening to a MaHa cassette,”

ECS Media Wada Adakshya of Kantipur serial

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 53 In his humor was the reflection of the pains of a citizenry forced to fight fellow citizens with a differing political view.

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54 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np try to “bring Kathmandu to its knees,” Salik to strike with overwhelming terror at the heart of the sukila-mukila, a clean-collared class that lumped together the urban blue and white collar classes because even the blue-collar workers in the city had become complacent. What help would come from laughing a little before going out to have your head busted? “We never do anything without humor in it. It just wouldn’t work,” Haribansha says in answer. Humor is the MaHa duo’s basic trade. Be it running and diving into the dirt after a rooster in faster-than-life motion, or a father-in-law tickling an India-returned migrant worker (and, in the process, fi nd- ing a strange spot that reveals a deadly affl iction after a proper health check-up), or wearing a neck-guard to bed. “Whatever the subject – be it political, medical or environmental – humor shall be given the fi rst priority,” Haribansha eagerly reiterates Abhinandan his point. But, why? Is humor really that important while delivering a message, say, about tolerance between ethnic groups? To articulate their larger point that people shouldn’t put too much emphasis on the divisive issue of ethnic identity when there is an absence of good governance, MaHa would have to create flat, exaggerated caricatures of different ethnic groups. How does that help? A contesting point could be made that their insistence upon aspirations towards a homogenized identity, as typifi ed in their Bahadur avatars, is just as politically Photos courtesy MaHa Sanchar hazardous, because it discounts genuine grievances of many political constituencies. And it smacks somewhat of a constructed unity, which is always a lie – just as much as it was during the Panchayat regime – that we are all one, and that inherited differ- ences don’t matter. I am wrong. Haribansha explains why In his humor was the refl ection of the pains A top-down intervention in his story – an – “More than humor, pathos leads good of a citizenry forced to fi ght fellow citizens earthquake that fl attens his ancestral home – comedic characters. If a character makes with a differing political view. This infl ated leads him down a pathetic road of annihila- people laugh while he is crying, that is a his character from a fl at caricature – the tion: home lost, land wrested away by a con- stronger humor. That has more depth, more stock of most comedy – into a rounded niving tenant and his chorus of real-estate dimension.” That May morning in Basanta- fi gure of tragedy. What appears as comic agents, drugged, robbed, jailed, thrown out pur, the crowd was laughing at Haribansha’s is actually tragic at its core. Dhruva Ram of the cowshed that was his last and fi nally very personal frustrations about not being Pandit, the loser-hero of Lalpurja, is easy set to wander with his elderly mother, taint- able to live the simplest life given to a citizen. to laugh at because he is tragic to his core. ing with pain the into-the-sunset fi nal shot

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 55 Photos by ECS Media usually reserved for heroic westerns or tales Two dreams, actually – that of the gold smuggler, of requited romance. All along, he makes us laugh at him, because we recognize how his and that of the petty bureaucrat, a collusion of character has halved the distance between his story and ours. aspirations for the upwardly mobile middleclass. If pathos infl ates humor into the di- mension of the tragic, what does rage do? Righteous rage is another fuel to MaHa’s its rage refl ected in 50/50’s satire. But, the they make a comment on an unfortunate comedy. In 50/50, one of MaHa’s earliest notion that the clean-collared bureaucracy social reality, the stronger it seems to mani- works for the television, a customs offi cer was a dirty bunch of the corrupt and the fest itself. Back to Lalpurja – our hapless who fi rst seems upright and honest turns greedy was not as easily digestible to the land-owning hero is forced to sleep with a into a corrupt colluder to a gold smuggler upper-crust of the society in the Panchayat neck-guard around his throat, because he who drops a brick – of gold – every time he era. Before airing 50/50, the censor at Ne- rightly worries that he will be fi nished off in is made to squat. MaHa’s political outlook pal Television refused to pass the program the night by his tenant if he forgoes caution. has been consistently forthright, riddled unless an alternative ending was provided, Soon after Lalpurja aired, a new land reform with middleclass morality, a landscape where, miraculously, the entire story turns law was presented, failed, and the People’s where Right and Wrong clearly delineate out to be a dream. War started. Land and its ownership is the themselves, and thus create the space righ- Two dreams, actually – that of the gold issue here: who should have the right over teous rage occupies in the civic conscious- smuggler, and that of the petty bureaucrat, farming land? The absentee landowner, or, ness. This outlook was most recognizable a collusion of aspirations for the upwardly the family that tills it and tends to it? Today, to the Nepali middleclass, which was just mobile middleclass. The story of Nepal be- with Dr. Bhattarai leading the government, discovering television in the mid-eighties tween 1990 and 2002 is born precisely from the answer seems obvious: the farmer who when MaHa made the leap from audio this nexus. This prophetic strain in MaHa’s works the land, of course. cassettes and stage performances to televi- work seems to be the punishment that goes But, watch Lalpurja, and that notion of sion specials. The middleclass recognized on to seek its offense: the more vehemently justice and injustice is absolutely upturned.

56 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np An individual can – and often does – stand mohi tenant-farmer, concocts a convoluted difference, or for generational vendetta. in defi ance of his class defi nitions. For rococo of comedy that ensures total des- Nearly all real-estate Mafi oso who kill and some, their footing proves too slippery titution and homelessness for the talsing threaten their neighbors to develop colos- to let them keep their standing within the landowner Dhruva Ram. Look around sal gated communities are card-carrying limits of their politically defi ned class. today, and you’ll fi nd iterations of the revolutionaries, while landless squatters Dhruva Ram’s land is valued at six mil- same story echoing from hill to hill where are evicted from their tent-slums to build lion rupees, only a quarter of which he muscled proletariats have expelled even parks dedicated to dead communist lead- is legally obligated to give to his tenant- poorer “class enemies” from their land ers. The most famous revolutionary these farmer Ghanshyam. But Ghanshyam, the and property because of caste or ethnic days is not a leader, but a Dr. Bhattarai’s lackey, a convicted murderer who killed not for political reasons, but out of pure caste hatred. MaHa’s offense was to dream up Dhruva Ram, a misfi t and discredit to his land-owning, upper-caste stereotype. Their punishment is the perversion seen in politics today. Over 32 years of partnership, Madan Krishna and Haribansha have made people laugh while actually teaching them: about tuberculosis in Chiranjivi, in which a greedy son in law waits for a tubercular elder to die. But, timely cure saves the elder, keeping him alive longer than the greedy son in law. Raat, in which a jovial guard on holiday from India turns out to have contracted HIV/AIDS after raping a Nepali sex-worker who sought shelter with him. Bhakunde Bhoot, in which a polythene bag full of garbage thrown in the streets keeps returning to the house until it is properly disposed of in a garbage container. Pandhra Gatey, in which a son insists upon getting married a day before his college girlfriend’s wed- ding, and in the process takes the family on a cross-country, pan-ethnic journey and a fi ght against the dowry system. , a meticulous record of the pit- falls of greed and ostentation during the festival as celebrated among the urban lower-middleclass. To their lasting credit, MaHa have even given Nepali culture the greatest moments of horror and suspense on screen: Haribansha’s rendi- tion of a coming-of age ditty, “Ghaas katney khurkera, aayo joban hureka... Kaslai diun yo joban?” is still unsurpassed in its capacity to deliver terror into the hearts of a viewer. I used to waylay a friend in boarding school, hoarsely, slowly singing

ECS Media “Ghaas katney khurkera...” as he walked to

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 57 script for an upcoming stage show – pages fi lled with a scrawl so personal as to be illeg- ible even to him – while Madan Krishna tries to email the duo’s biography to the photographer. Haribansha fi nds time for small talk while Madan Krishna reminds him of the lunch waiting upstairs. I have a moment to myself in Madan Krishna’s living room. I search the wall-to-wall shelves on one side, full of trophies and mementos, for a sign of their partnership. I can’t fi nd a single photo of Haribansha on the walls, neither a single trophy on the shelves made out to Madan Krishna alone. I wonder – What is Haribansha’s trophy shelf like? The kitchen is on the fourth fl oor. MaHa say their goodbyes and prepare to go upstairs. At the bottom of the stairs are warm slippers for the kitchen. ECS Media Haribansha slips his feet into a pair, seems puzzled, switches them around. Comedy on Nepali television stations, sadly, Madan Krishna turns around to watch. is far removed from the biting wit and satire, Haribansha grins like a child who has stumbled upon a mystery: no matter how humor and pathos that MaHa insist upon. often he switches the slippers from one foot to the other, they look odd, always on the wrong foot. He switches around the bathroom in the night. He’d scream Nepal is a humorless nation right now. the slippers once more. “If I wear it like and run to the cocoon of his quilt, to No group has the honesty to laugh at this, it looks like they are both on wrong emerge only in the morning to punch itself, and the laughter that comes at the feet, like a child would wear them. So I me in the gut. expense of another group is crude, full switch them around, and they still look Comedy on Nepali television stations, of cruelty. wrong. There is no right way of wearing sadly, is far removed from the biting wit The decades old partnership is vis- them,” he laughs. Madan Krishna, a few and satire, humor and pathos that MaHa ible in their relationship in private. steps above him, smiles and nods, waits. insist upon. All is canned laughter and Madan Krishna, the levelheaded foil to “Then, there is no wrong way of wear- tyauun... of raised eyebrows, twitching Haribansha’s persistent buffoon, hovers ing them,” Haribansha switches slippers noses and fl ailing hands. Every joke is a around impatiently, watching the inter- again. Finally, I recognize this person – a talking point on the topic du jour, lifted viewer more often than participating in man so straightforward in how he sees from newspaper headlines and repeated the conversation. A year back, during the world that he delights in simply infi nitely. A trend that perhaps started another conversation, Madan Krishna had recounting his most mundane actions, with Twakka –Tukka, a collection of insisted upon balance between Ma and and somehow infuses them with mean- short, not-very-funny jokes – has now Ha when it came to representation in a ing, like a character from a fable whose degraded to episode long jokes with no possible comic-book. Haribansha speaks every action translates into a moral. Like punch line, no insight that the viewer almost entirely in the fi rst person plural. Dhruva Ram who, after he fi nished “be- hasn’t already considered or confronted. Haribansha leans forward to talk about ing employed for the day,” went home, Will real comedy – with satire and pathos leaving his old home at Comfort Housing washed his only pair of work clothes – ever return? MaHa aren’t holding their in Budhanilkantha, but Madan Krishna and set them out to dry overnight. He breath. They don’t see how it is possible putters around asking if he should change cooked, ate, cleaned up, woke up the next for good comedy to come out of the into something more presentable for the morning, cooked, ate, cleaned up. And, political chaos that reigns in the nation. photographer. Haribansha shows the prepared to go to work. ■

58 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np

Fabric of society A truly Nepali fabric, ‘dhaka’ belongs to a different, charmed time in Nepal. ECS Media Text By NIRAJ KARKI

60 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np friend of mine upon vis- Like old Nepali houses, like old timeless iting Nepal remarked that we seem to have a national traditions, like old works of art that are scattered ‘everything’. Animals, birds, weapons,A dresses, games; we seem to across Nepal – Dhaka belongs there. have it all. Yet amidst this list, Dhaka fabric misses mention, despite being undoubtedly Nepali and defi ning Nepal shopping centres andnd many more but a more than any other fabric. man wearing a Dhakaka ko topii, oorr women Recognized only as a shadow of its in Dhaka attire will aalwayslways unmistakaunmistakablybly true self, today it is probably best known bring to surface the Nepali identity. in the form of a Dhaka topi () – a The history of Dhaka,haka, a story in itself symbol and part of the face of Nepal is part of an inherentt timeless yet forforgot-got- and Nepali men. The topi is a mixture of ten story. Before thee fancy shops selling elegance and tradition, and of national labels in Durbar Margarg or the shopping heritage, as it carries with it a legacy malls, supermarketss and clothinclothingg storestoress expressed with a simple . And, that dress Nepal in aallll things ‘importe‘imported’,d’, there is the Dhaka ko Khasto, a shawl, a before the pedlars oonn the sidewalks and truly Nepali shawl. footpaths selling clothes,othes, there was, and Dhaka gives me this old romantic still is in some parts of Nepal an almost impression of Nepal maybe a hundred forgotten practise – hhomespunomespun. years ago – and I wasn’t born a hundred Charkhas, Taans – tthehe spinninspinningg wwheelheel years ago so I don’t know – but it is this and the weaving loom.m. Back to the basics. feeling, an impression of a more and Cloth woven from hand spun thread, truly cultured Nepal, bearing its own which in turn is sourcedourced from cotton unique, untainted identity, unaffected grown locally. It’s easyasy these ddaysays to take by the waves of foreign infl uence in for granted how clothesothes and everythineverythingg fashion and culture. Like old Nepali else is made. Cloth is wwovenoven from thread houses, like old timeless traditions, that comes from cotton,otton, or a range like old works of art that are scattered of synthetic materialsials these days. across Nepal – Dhaka belongs there. Before the advent of the power It belongs in ancient black and white looms, when everythinging was ddoneone and sepia toned family photographs of by hand, making clothesothes was a grandmothers and grandfathers, with her skilled thing to do andnd cloth in wearing a dhaka ko cholo and khasto and itself was valuable. him wearing a dhaka ko topi. Nepal is a Dhaka in particularular was different place in many ways now and more than just cloth.. It was these days the fabric makes an appear- special, extra special.. It fea- ance mainly at weddings; the fashion tured colours, designsgns and of bridegrooms dressing in full dhaka prints, which whilee taketakenn attire – daura surwal (tunic and leggings) for granted today wereere things and topi and chatti (slippers, yes) being of signifi cance then.. The use quite popular. Being the choice fabric of dyed threads, its sisignaturegnature for such an important day does hint to patterns – all achievedd by hand the true signifi cance of the fabric – sig- weaving required greateat skill nifi cance steeped in history and art, a and was extremely tedious.dious. proud tradition and heritage, and well Today this makes it a papartrt Model: Sunny Awale and truly, a symbol of Nepal. It was the of the past; in the past,ast, it fabric of Nepal. Its value may be a little was a thing of wonder.der. tarnished due to neglect and the takeover The origin of dhakadhaka by countless fashion trends, brands and goes back several huhundredndred ECS Media

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 61 Photos by ECS Media years. Palpa and Tehrathum are the two it these days, their efforts dedicated to most noted places regarding its origins, preserving the form of art and way of Palpali dhaka being a well-known prod- life that dhaka is. uct line in Nepal. However there are Dhaka like most things has seeneen many places around Nepal that make changes over time, and the methods of dhaka products today with commercial production involved in its making as wwellell production starting in Tansen, Palpa as the raw materials that go into it haveave around 50 years ago. There is a little changed slowly too. Originally made It’s worth mentioning that there is misconception about dhaka coming entirely by hand from mercerized cotton real Dhaka and the print Dhaka. Later from the name of the place –the cur- that was spun into raw yarn which in turn advancements in technology allowed rent capital of , which was, was dyed and then woven in hand looms for easier, cheaper and simpler means in times of the British regime in India, called ‘Haate taan’, these days there are of production of types of fabric other a place renowned for its textile produc- factories where everything is automated than Dhaka that imitated the look of tion. The misconception seems to stem and instead of being made purely from the original dhaka print. It was imitation from the obvious – the name, and can cotton, synthetics such as polyester are in the form of fl attery, and not a con, be discarded given that the origins of the used. There are trade-offs between the use for the difference is obvious to anyone fabric are much older. Its origins can be of machinery and pure human effort for and everyone - patterns and prints in better associated with women of the Rai modern looms such as the Jacquard looms dhaka are woven into the fabric while and Limbu castes, who continue to make that boost productivity signifi cantly. the imitations had colour dyed into the

62 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np ECS Media

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 63 If you need another reason to wear something fi nal fabric. There is a silent understand- ing now and both the real and the print made of dhaka consider that its usually are called dhaka, the latter a favourite in making things such as summer blankets, women’s groups who make it, supporting the cholo (), bhotto (the Nepali version craft in itself as well as their families. of thermals) and many more. The look of dhaka has demands both in Nepal and abroad. Nationally there are constant demands caused by the tradi- tions associated with dhaka – festivals, religious and social occasions while for foreign markets, the fabric exudes a uniquely exotic and Nepali look mak- ing it an excellent product for export as traditional handicraft. Dhaka is extremely versatile and can be used to make many things. Its use and export is not limited to clothing alone such as shawls but has been expanded into making ties and a whole range of cookware such as aprons, oven mitts and potholders as well as cases for mobile phones and such. If you need another reason to wear something made of dhaka consider that its usually women’s groups who make it, supporting the craft in itself as well as their families. Various groups helping and training each other is one of the ways dhaka is still here today. Its presence is here but only in traces and almost all the shops that sell dhaka in Kathmandu are concentrated in Indra Chowk, fi ve minutes from Basantapur Durbar Sqaure. The value of dhaka, for as much as part of Nepal and Nepali culture that it is, is in limbo, caught up in the odd change of fashion. It doesn’t quite blend in with modern fashion due to its tradi- tional impression but it is certainly of a greater potential than has been realized. But it is unique, it is Nepali. So the next time you see dhaka – re- member, it’s more than a fabric – it’s a piece of history, culture and tradition. Something old, and like so many aspects of our culture, it is in need of revival and recognition. So who is going to write to Prabal Gurung about using dhaka in his

ECS Media next set of designs? ■

64 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np

A passage back in time The Chitrakars of Bhimsenthan A chance invitation to a Newar home provides a journey back in time to a different Nepali era. Text By UTSAV SHAKYA ECS Media

Kiran ManChitarkar with his father’s camera gear.

magine yourself taking a walk around Tundikhel, where Nepal’s former royalty everything. You take a long breath and as Tundikhel in Kathmandu on a warm liked to observe the nation’s various festi- the fresh air seemingly expands your lungs, winter’s day. The air is fi lled with the vals, fi lls you with a sense of grandeur as you feel rejuvenated. But, stop... sound of birds chirping, a clock strikes the historic Dharahara tower, built by one Today, the same walk today will leave you eightI in the distance. You can smell the time Prime Minister Bhimsen Thapa (it is quite literally breathless for a far different trees and the earth, still damp from the sometimes called ‘Bhimsen’s Folly’), looms reason (from pollution). That fi rst descrip- morning’s dew. The only sign of traffi c is over you. Behind the fi eld, you see hills and tion was the Kathmandu of the fi fties and a young man on a bicycle peddling his way behind them majestic snow-capped moun- sixties. Nepal had only just opened up to to work. Before you, the green expanse of tains. The sight makes you feel good about the world and people who had heard of

66 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np this romantic, utopian land started coming Checking the details of big up. All that is nothing but a dream today, sized negative which was used by Kiran Chitrakar on this an an old man’s memory at best. That was the English camera a coper made by Kathmandu people loved to be in, to visit, to Houghtons Ltd. of London with a CP Goerz() lens, the camera make a home of, not for work but because of his grand father. the natural beauty and cultural heritage of Kathmandu is breathtaking. Born in the early eighties, I missed out on actually experiencing a lot of this beauty, though I have often heard about it around the dining table from my parents. A chance visit to the Chitrakar home near the temple of Bhimsenthan in Kathmandu, a few minutes’ walk from the Basantapur Durbar Square towards Tahachal, became my unlikely passage into that almost mythic valley of yesteryear. ECS Media The name Chitrakar is a term that was coined early on in Nepal for the caste of people who made a living as artists. (Chitra is a work of art, a painting.) The ground fl oor of the Chitrakar residence houses the The name Chitrakar is a term that was coined early Ganesh Color Lab, established by Kiran on in Nepal for the caste of people who made a Chitrakar’s grandfather, Dirgha Man Chi- trakar. The lab was originally in their old living as artists. (Chitra is a work of art, a painting.) house, the country’s fi rst photo developing studio. A hole bored into the roof of their old house in Bhimsenthan (different from ditional art forms such as scroll paintings, as the fi rst person to develop color slides the present Chitrakar residence) served as religious paintings and decorating impor- in Nepal. Ganesh Man’s cameras are still in the source of light. Dirgha Man is the son tant religious places, a customary practice possession of his son, Kiran Chitrakar, also of Laxmi Lal, a renowned painter of his of the Chitrakars. When the then Prime a court photographer who has accompanied times. Prior to starting work for the royal Minister Shumsher Rana set a King Birendra on royal visits abroad besides family as royal painter and court photog- trip to England and in 1908, Dirgha other offi cial trips with dignitaries. Kiran rapher, Dirgha Man was involved with tra- Man was allowed to accompany him. The today besides working as a photographer trip gave Dirgha Man a rare opportunity to works at the state television channel’s offi ce compose paintings of the picturesque cit- and is working towards opening a museum ies of Europe and also to study European to preserve the trove of history that is both, art. The succeeding Prime Ministers, Bhim his heritage and responsibility. Shumsher and Juddha Shumsher J.B. Rana “I would have donated the cameras kept a large part of Dirgha Man’s apparatus and numerous artworks that belonged to within the confi nes of the Singh Durbar my father and grandfather readily to the where Dirgha Man worked until formally government if I trusted them in being retiring at the age of 71. competent enough to conserve it. But look Dirgha Man’s son Ganesh Man Chitra- at the condition of the present museums kar learnt the art of photography besides in Nepal being look after by the govern- painting from his father. Ganesh Man ment,” says Kiran of his wish to allow the too followed into his father’s footsteps at public to view a piece of history through Singh Durbar, as a royal painter and court his family’s possessions. Kiran is of the photographer. Ganesh Man is credited as sentiment that such art cannot belong to being the fi rst to take aerial photographs of a particular person and the public have a the Kathmandu Valley in 1965 A.D and also right to it as much as he does. But Kath-

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 67 PICTURES THAT SPEAK Brushing away the dust on the cameras stored inside a glass case alongside framed pictures of his grandfather, father and him- self amongst royalty and foreign dignitaries, Kiran says he would not mind displaying the photographs and antique cameras to serious enthusiasts. But one can perceive from the way he looks at and explains certain photo- graphs that he has a deep connection with his inheritance. Kiran is not one to sell his inheritance for a quick buck. If not anything, Kiran Chitrakar has worked towards uplifting his family’s name. A winner of several medals including the 3rd SAARC Summit Medal in 1987 and Relief for Natural Disaster Medal in 1988, Kiran Man Chitrakar with the late king Kiran has covered national and interna- Birendra and daughter late Shruti Photos courtesy Kiran Man Chitrakar tional news and toured the world with the Heads of states. He has held exhibitions of mandu’s earthquake prone nature and the mm, f/25 ii) the British Camper made his family’s and his own work in numerous lack of any agency showing interest in by Houhtons Ltd of London with a CP countries such as France, England, Japan, providing a premise to portray this art has Goerz lens and accessories from Altrin- USA, Switzerland and Sri . stalled Kiran’s plans for the moment. cham Thronton Pickard and iii) a camera Talk however, eventually returns to the Three of the cameras used by Dirgha with a German lens produced by Hugo photographs, simply because you cannot Man are prized possessions of the Chi- Meyer & Co., no. 464181. Aristoplanat ignore them in the Chitrakars’ living room. trakar family today, souvenirs of the 1:7.7, foc 17 ¾”. Ganesh Man used 1) They are everywhere you look! Transfi xed family’s rich artistic history. They are i) Rolleifl ex, Rollei, Franke & Heidecke of on these timepieces, my mind wanders the American R.B. Graflex, patented Braunschweig, Germany 2) Rolleicord, quite naturally to the years I thought I had on June 1, 1927 by the former Grafl ex Rollei, Franke & Heidecke and 3) Ikonta missed out on. Temples, people in tradi- Corporation of Rochester with a Cooks M. Prontor-SV, No. 1231/1. Zeiss-Ikon tional Newari clothes, a Jyapu man carrying Anastigmat Lens no. 21674, 6 ½”, 165 of Stuttgart, Germany. a kharpan on which he carries his trading

68 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np commodities, children playing in open French were known to eat beef, the water vorite hobby - hunting. There are also some spaces, landscapes of spaces that are today there was deemed impure for the Nepalese amazing inside shots of old palaces that covered by a concrete jungle - nothing re- to drink. So the entourage of people that no one else has today and without which sembles the Kathmandu we see today. Kiran accompanied Chandra Shumsher carried one simply would never have a clue as to explains one particular picture of his grand- 300 ghaitos (traditional copper alloy vessel how the palaces of the country’s formative father, the only one he has that was taken used for carrying water) of water from years looked. The black and white adds a by someone in a train station in Marseilles Nepal to France!” exclaims Kiran, a smile healthy dose of nostalgia. Monochrome in Paris. The shot has been captured from fi nally breaking on his face. tends to blend people in a lot of times but the side and it shows a crowd of Nepalese Amongst the pictures Kiran generously in group pictures of royalty and common- in their traditional attire crouching on the offers to show me are really classic old black ers, the royalty still stands out, with their streets. “The Nepalese as we know can get and white ones that show Nepal’s former posture, their attire and the stern, proud a little fanatic about their values. Because the kings and Prime Ministers busy at their fa- look on their faces; the origins perhaps of the great and growing divide between the rich and the poor in Nepal. Other pictures For a Nepali person, the pictures tend to induce a in Kiran’s living room speak of his long- standing relationship to Nepali’s former feeling of pride, of belonging, of a connection that royalty. Because of his grandfather and suddenly becomes evident through everything. father’s close ties to the palace, Kiran too was very close to former royals. Pictures of him with royalty, local and foreign dignitaries fi ll entire walls. For a Nepali person, the pictures tend to induce a feeling of pride, of belonging, of a connection that suddenly becomes evident through everything. These pictures should be quite easily the most honest depiction of the country. Mixed in with the fl amboyance of the Rana regime, the hunting trips with dignitaries, the extravagant clothes and jew- elry is the country’s heart rending poverty, its culture and an unspoiled beauty that is almost sad since the observer now knows that Kathmandu and a lot of what we see of Nepal has changed drastically. For the foreign eye, the pictures are a visual treat. More than a portrayal of the photographer’s talent at his vocation, it is a stripped down look at what Nepal looked like outside the frame of postcards. Because more often than not, the pictures seem fl awed by showing a little of what was not meant to be in the frame. This is the very quality that lets the Chitrakars’ pictures stand apart. For people who live here, there are quite a lot of ways to connect to Nepal’s heritage but for those of you who are just passing by; these pictures will paint you a better picture of where you have been. ■

Note: Many thanks to Mr. Kiran Chitrakar for graciously inviting and introducing the writer to American president Jimmy Carter & Kiran Man Chitrakar. his family and his family history.

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 69 Vivaha Panchami A celebration of divine love The epic love story and marriage of Ram is re-lived every year in the very place the story unfolded. Text & Photos By CHARLIE DAS UDASIN

ord held the mighty and that marrying the enchanted Sita, Janak’s Destruction, entrusted into the care of lengthy golden bow in his hand, he daughter, all depended on making this the revered Janak. It was to be a way for knew it was something special, he shot. Rama had met numerous “strong Janak to know the correct man, the one stood tall in the palace of famed men”, who had failed the test—he was who should marry his beloved, beautiful LordL Janak, ruler of . He knew nervous, under his confi dent persona. and virtuous daughter. the story of how no man had been able What was in his hand was no simple As Rama held the bow in his hand, he to pull back the bows tight string, let bow, it was the Dhanush, weapon breathed a moment, then swiftly, he lifted alone fi re even a single arrow. He knew of the mighty Lord Shiva, the God of the weapon, grander than himself, but

70 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np yet all within the fl ash of a second. With calm meditation, he had strung the bow, and, focused his mind. With one clean swoop he pulled back the string, the au- dience was frozen by the feat, under all his might and power, the bow doubled, and the arrow fi red like a thunderbolt. As it exited the bow’s arch, the weapon snapped into two, under Rama’s unseen strength. In that moment, all those pres- ent, knew that the virtuous Rama was indeed bestowed with great powers, and was the one destined to marry Sita. The families of Janak and Dasaratha (Rama’s father, ruler of ), would now be joined in union. Two great empires were about to come together. Now what has this great epic, of Hin- duism got to do with us here in Nepal? Simple really, Lord Janak, his daugh- ter Sita, and their ancient Kingdom of Mithila, were all right here, within these Lord Janak himself is held in as not borders, in the Tarai district of Dhanusa (Sanskrit for “bow”). The scene described just a king of lands, but as a divine guru, a above, happened in the uniquely con- structed, mesmerizing temple, known as master of Hinduism’s practices. the Ram-Janaki Mandir. It happened dur- ing Sita’s Swayamvar, a ceremony where the woman chooses her own husband. Each his wife Sita, the tensions that love and defi ling many a religious tenant. So the year since, in the month of November other men’s lust can bring, as well as the gods, unable to defeat directly, (-ish), the Hindu world comes together beauty of divine matrimony. The only take human and animal forms. Enter with love and fervor, for the festival of other epic is the , written Rama, his beloved brother Laksman Vivaha Panchami, the celebration of this later and chronicling the tales of Lord (the incarnation of ’s snake) and beloved couple’s wedding day. For the Krishna, another of Vishnu’s incarna- Hanuman the monkey warrior from people of India, Ram-Sita are not just a tions. The has been accredited Kishkinda, son of Lord , the God happy couple, they are the incarnations to the noteworthy sage , and is be- of Wind, and considered as embodying of the virtuous Lord Vishnu (Lord of lieved to be from the 5th Century B.C. elements of Shiva’s power. Along with the Gods) and his serene wife, Laxmi (the Through its telling of Ram-Sita’s tale this merry band, the entire monkey army Goddess of Wealth). of love and devotion, it gives people of Kishkinda, comes to Rama’s side to Lord Janak himself is held in Hindu- a guidebook on the correct behavior rescue Sita, fi ghting Ravana’s vast, dark ism as not just a king of lands, but as for husbands, wives, brothers, fathers, army, after he stole her away to his King- a divine guru, a master of Hinduism’s families, friends, as well as depicting dom of Lanka (Sri Lanka). practices. Even like Shiva, how to deal with aggression in correct The tale follows the exploits of Rama and Vishnu take council with him on karmic ways. who quests for his wife, and Sita who different matters making Janakpur a In the tale, Rama’s wife Sita is ab- remains devout to her husband while im- place that all visit, to pay ducted by an evil demonic rakchhasa king prisoned and keeping her love safe. Ra- their respects. called Ravana, who through meditation, vana constantly tries to trick the devout received a boon from the universal cre- Sita into giving herself to him, willingly ABOUT THE RAMAYANA ator, Lord Brahma, making him immune but she sees through his illusions. The Ramayana is held as India’s fi rst great to divine forces. This see’s Ravana go on Hanuman becomes a central fi gure in epic tale. It is the story of Lord Rama and a vile rampage of lust and destruction, her rescue, with his love for Rama be-

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 71 coming a shining example to all people, describing the meaning of selfl ess de- votion. The powerful monkey warrior never takes a wife, keeping his love only for Ram-Sita, remaining a constant fi gure by their side. When Ram-Sita left this plain of ex- istence, they offered Hanuman to leave with them. Instead, Hanuman requested to stay on here, for as long as Ram-Sita are worshipped. That’s why whenever the Ramayana is read in public, a red seat is kept empty for the warrior monkey; though unseen, he is always believed to attend.

JANAKPUR, NEPAL AND THE RAMA- YANA The Ramayana was not just India’s fi rst great epic saga, in fact it is Nepal’s too. The story was re-written in the , by Bhanubhakta Acharya, coinciding with a During the festival of Vivaha renaissance in the Nepali language. Panchami, the entire city heaves withh The city of Janakpur shows the diver- crowds coming from every directionn sity that is a characteristic of the entire of the Hindu world, clamoring too country. The streets, art and buildings pour out their love and respect. Thee are beyond comparison in all this land. temple of Ram-Janaki (the main onene Unique is the word. Walking through its in the city), see the most traffi c; it iiss streets instantly transports one to a place the spot where Rama pulled the bow’sw’s not so different from India’s Rajasthan. un-moving string. Next to that is thehe The 52 constructed ponds and ghats are temple where Ram-Sita were married,ed, the queue gets long here, and forr a a wonder to behold architecturally, and gift to eat. Both are devoured in vast devotional dip there is the Ganga Sagar amazing places to pay devotion to the amounts, laced with sugar. Meeti, the (pond). In the olden days, these ponds sacred couple, especially when the colors tantalizing milk sweet of India is of- were laced with gold, to help better trans- of the rising sun shine bright. Nowadays fered at every corner, and next to those mit one’s devotion to the other side. there are probably more temples in are stalls selling every form of religious On the day, dahi (curd) and chiura Janakpur to the Ramayana characters, picture and trinket. The essence of ripe (beaten rice) are the prasad, or devotional than there are inhabitants. oranges fi lls the air throughout. I’m sure the beautiful capital of the THE JANAKS AND THE KINGDOM OF MITHILA once mighty kingdom has dwindled much through the centuries, but it still The Kingdom of Videha, commonly called KingSage. Due to the vast amounts of medi- exists and gives one a glimpse into a time Mithila, after its old capital, appears to tation and services they had performed, they of myth, legend and fantasy; something have been first established more than 1000 reached a stage of complete dis-attachment that is diffi cult to fi nd in our world, in B.C. Today the city of Mithila is known as to all worldly things. The most famous Janakpur, in Dhanush District, of Nepal’s RajaRishi is Seeradhwaj Janak, the father of this the era of science and fact. Tarai. During its height it also encompassed Sita, also known by her family title as Janaki. Biratnagar further east in Nepal, as well as Seeradhwaj Janak is so strongly recognized SCIENCE AND ROMANCE large swathes of India. as a great sage, that Lord Krishna, in the Some facts make the Ramayana story The Janak kings were seen not just as excel- Mahabharata (the only other Hindu epic), slightly diffi cult to argue on a divine level. lent warriors, and rulers, but also as strong uses him as a prime example of Karma In my opening scene, I paint the story of sages, often given the title of RajaRishi or Yoga, or selfless service. Rama with Shiva’s mighty bow. Now okay,

72 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np this can all be called just a very good story. Further east in the hillside town of Now you might say, sure, that really However, if you travel 14 km outside of Dharan, is a dhuni or religious fi re estab- happened. But on top of a Sri Lanka Janakpur, to the temple of Dhanusadam, lished by Rama more than two and a half mountain, named Adam’s Peak, is a you will find a strange scene. Within millennia ago. Religious ceremonies have footprint fused into the solid rock. Per- the temple is a length of molten earth, been performed there every day since. haps it is the footprint of the landing stretching for about 20m, as if a greatly Even today, it is run by an elderly Udasin Hanuman? violent explosion happened here, almost Baba, sleeping in the jungle, in the trees on par with the damage of a meteorite at night, avoiding wild animals. It goes to RELEVANCE crashing to earth. Or, as the story goes, the show how long Rama-devotion has been The Ramayana provided people with a arrow fi red by Rama. N.A.S.A’s scientists in existence in this country alone. code of behavior, like Lakshman loyally have been here to examine the scene, and Another story from the Ramayana is following his eldest brother Rama, and the mystery remains. of Lord Hanuman, and the heroic leap he his wife Sita, into exile for 14 years. After Rama had been tricked, by his stepmother, to relinquish his right over the kingdom Religious ceremonies have been performed there of Ayodhya and to leave it. Lakshman every day since. Even today, it is run by an elderly follows, keeping watchful eyes for danger, loyally at his brother’s side through thick Udasin Baba, sleeping in the jungle, in the trees and thin. Sita is held as the exemplary wife who follows her husband into exile, living at night, avoiding wild animals. with him and his brother as simple sages, giving up their limitless wealth. Ram-Sita, made from the east are seen as the personifi cation of true coast of India, all the love, and provide a code for all married way to Sri Lanka, after couples to follow. hearing that Sita might Now sure, many people can say all be captive there. The this is just fantasy. Even the creator of tale goes that after fi rst the movie epic Star Wars, George Lucas meditating, he made thought so, using it as the model for his the jump in one great hit series. A stolen princess Lea (Sita), a feat, fl ying safely over young prince Skywalker (Rama), his loyal the vast expanse of friend Han Solo (Lakshman), with his nothingness. In the even more loyal, hairy friend Chewbaka saga he succeeds, fi nds (Hanuman), the evil Darth Vader (Ra- Sita, and brings her vana) and the Ewok rebels (the monkey the message that her army of Kishkinda), who made Darth beloved Rama is look- Vader’s fall possible. ing for her, and not As stories go, the Ramayana is one to lose faith. It is the of the world’s most popular religious moment that brings texts, incorporated into not just Nepal Sita great hope and and India’s culture and religion, but into strength. She refuses vast swathes of Southeast Asian Bud- to have Hanuman take dhist culture. Rama’s strength with the her out, for it would bow, and the unquestioning love in his tarnish Rama’s reputa- relationship with the virtuous Sita have tion for not saving his moved people for countless millennia, on wife, himself. Hanu- a basic level, far removed from religion, man escapes back to but refl ected in every love affair. ■

Rama with the news, Charlie Das is an Udasin bhakta, with a deep but first sets Lanka love and devotion for this heavenly couple, and ablaze, like the pesky all that they embody. You can contact him at monkey he is. [email protected].

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 73 Onwards and upwards The quest for all things new Text & Photos By PAT KAUBA

74 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move. - Robert Louis Stevenson (Travels With A Donkey, 1879)

WHAT MAKES AN ADVENTURER? soon, with the team, to take the offi cal It is an age old question, asked down altitude readings, to confi rm if it is re- through now long-forgotten ages. Is it ally true. If so, it will mean that good muscles and pomp, or a recklessness with old Tilicho Lake, sitting at 4,949m., will Wones own life or with that of others? soon be pushed off its pedestal —liter- I often wondered about these things ally. The answer will be with us shortly, as I grew up, reading books like Swiss once the weather is that little bit better Family Robinson, Robinson Cruscoe and the for the task. adventures of little Huckelberry Finn. But Antonio is not stopping there, to Until recently I can honestly say that I rest on his laurels, he’s already in talks knew no better, within my child’s mind, with National Geographic, for an explora- I would craft strong macho Indiana tion grant, as well as joining the team, Jones-esque characters, resplendant with when they go to research and explore leather whip and widebrimmed . But, the areas of far-fl ung, far-western Ne- then I met Antonio, and well, this man I pal. They will travel on foot beyond the can say, is indeed an explorer, deserving Annapurnas and Dhaulagiri 6(Putha of the title, and yet he carries no whip Hiunchuli), beyond Jumla all the way to that I can see, and that only made me Humla, and Saipal, an area that claimed more curious. lives on the last exploration team that I sit with Juan Antonia Sanchez, a went that was, in the 1990’s. It is a part lean, olive-skinned man, dark haired and of the country that is hugely unknown, clean shaved, we share coffee on a ve- even to its inhabitants. It is a part of randa over looking a chaotic Kathmandu our world that is still raw, wild and even street, cars and rickshaws battle for uncharted, steeped in deep mystery and inches, and I can see this is not Antonio’s wonder—both natural and divine. There natural environment. He’s busy these will be no shortage of great stories for day, like most of his days. He is between NatGeo to show us here, as well as those meetings as we talk, working on getting in the outside world. grants and teams organized for the next The Himalayas have long been big exploration trip into the Himalayas. frought with dangers, it is the way of “Every journey I do has to be about ex- such mountains, they are not consid- ploration”, he tells me, as a glint appears ered record setters for nothing. Every in his eyes. He hasn’t been in Nepal that year sees tragedy on those high slopes, long, a year and a half and his company whether it is with novice trekkers, or Enlightenment Treks and Expeditions, isn’t experienced climbers, both local and that old, but he has not been wasting any foreign. Danger is hard to predict, theres time. Already he is starting to leave his are too many factors to consider such as print on these mountains. High Altitude Sickness, avalanches, rock slides and even just poor luck, such as KNOCKING TITLES OFF PEDESTALS slipping at the wrong moment. Then The next mission is taking him and the what happens in the event of injury? team back up to Rasuwa District, above Helicopters are possible, but only to Gosaikunda Lake; it seems they recently certain elevations. In the end, it is still sniffed out a new “highest lake” of always going to be a challenge between Nepal. He is beyond excited, and is off man and the mountains.

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 75 THE HUNGRY BUNCH Antonio has been building a strong team of Nepali climbers, who are both aware of the dangers and equally hun- gry, to explore the unknown parts of their country. They are people who are well tuned-in, to the dangers of Nepali mountain exploration. The team includes noteworthy climb- ers, like Chotemba Sherpa of Makalu, who since the age of 15, has worked his way up from being a porter, using deep determination and passion. He has been part of both Nepali Himala- yan and French Alpine expeditions for a long time. To date he has notched 14 Himalayan peaks to his belt. Another esteemed climber is Usha Bista, a lady above the rest, in the country, literally, and probably has more experience of Himalayan dangers than most of her male couterparts. Three years before, she lost her thumb on the Hillary Step, while ascending Mount Everest; it was her fi rst attempt. It had to be cut off due to frostbite, after she was left behind by her colleagues, as they continued on up to the top of the world. Thankfully a kind Canadian woman came along and helped her, slowly, back down. Since then she has been climbing peaks with gusto and determination, and not just here, but some of the worlds biggest peaks in Australia and Russia. On top of that she went back and scaled Mt. Everest and any fears she may have had. As for the man at the wheel, he has his own long-line of credentials, well built since he left his home in Seville, in sunny , many years ago. Antonio arrived to Nepal after seven years of cutting out new tracks, through South American rainforests, mostly in Colum- bia and Panama. Also, he has spent much Another esteemed climber is Usha Bista, a lady time climbing and exploring around California’s Sierra Nevada mountains. above the rest, in the country, literally, and Then for fun he added healthy amounts of adrenaline packed motocross (driving probably has more experience of Himalayan special motorbikes over rough terrain), dangers than most of her male couterparts. and bucket loads of mountain biking to his repertoire.

76 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np The team seems strong, defi netly so Livingston when he disappeared into legs, which I am sure will be well worn as a group of individuals, they are thank- the dark heart of Africa centuries ago, out by then. fully aware of what lies ahead. Often we looking for the source of the River Nile. tend to forget how truly dangerous it can Exploration will still always be explora- NO REST FROM ONE’S PASSION be up there, especially when what we see tion, even in this, the 21st Century. When Antonio is not roaming the moun- of the place are picturesque images of Ironically the team plans that once tains, he keeps himself away in Pharping, magical places. We rarely tend to think the far-western exploration project ends, a few kilometers outside of Kathmandu of the underlying currents of danger they will raft down the mighty Karnali city, tucked in next to the mountains of that exists when one truly ‘goes off the River, which runs not far from Jumla, all the valley. Even there he has not been beaten track’. There will be no aid posts the way to Bardia on the Indian border. resting on any laurels, and has discov- or doctors to help in the event of mishap, A wild glint appears as he says it, per- ered a new hot-spring, known only to they will be for the most part, on their haps he can already feel the adrenalin a few locals and unheard of within the own, with their own skills to depend rush of riding such a colossal amount valley. Antonio smiles as he tells how on. Every single item of equipment and of water. Why not? Better than walking the locals go to boil their eggs in the food has to be carried, and luxuries like back down, and it is always good to have water; it is that hot. When not busy with hot washes and full meals will become a change in the mode that ones travels. his passion for exploration, he keeps a distant memory. But that is the life of It will be a hell of a way to wrap up the himself busy studying Buddhism with explorers, it wasn’t much better for Dr. mission, and welcome respite on the the numerous lamas, in the monasteries

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 77 culture in a non-detremental way. Even just fi nding a High Lama and centre capable of teaching foreigners such a grand subject as Buddhism has been a task for him, but a worthwhile one nonetheless, he says.

GETTING IT TOGETHER As we talk more, I ask how the fi nancing will happen. The hope is that the appli- cation to Nat’ Geo’, will be accepted, it seems it will, he has gotten great feed- back, but it will only cover part of the costs. The Trekking Association is on board, as is the Tourism Board, as well as just about anyone else he can think of, is supporting the far-western project. But still the numbers are coming up a little short and he is hoping it will all come together as the departure time gets closer. As for other projects in the future It will be an opportunity for people to get a with Enlightenment Treks and Expeditions, Antoino will always aim at exploration concise set of teachings daily, as well as yoga, and feels many other people with ex- pranayama (breathing) and numerous other perience in mountain travelling will be interested in joining this style. So he aims learnings, as they stay at the monastery. to mold trekking and exploration in as many projects as possible in the future, getting groups of experienced climbers now dotted around the area. And, he is border, towards Rasuwagadhi, follow- and trekkers to join and participate from about to start a new kind of trekking ing the new Tamang Heritage Trail. Never abroad. Those who have a deep interest route from there, something else that is really moving beyond the 2000-ish m. in doing more than just trek through the new in Nepal, moving away again from mountains. It is aimed at being a trek older, more established routes. the conventional style. that just about anybody, at any level of Thankfully it is still possible to fi nd Now, they have created a trekking experience can both manage and enjoy. adventure in the world, and those will- package for people eager to learn. The All along the journey the group will be ing to explore it. I wish Antonio all the idea is simple, even possibly enlightening accompanied by a learned monk, who best with his unceasing efforts that will (for some). The trek will start off with will help keep the teaching going, and help us understand our own part of the six days of Buddhist teachings, from assist with practicing and perfecting, world better. It brings great comfort to the High Lama of the Chen Buddhist what has been learned. Upon their re- know that even today such grand tasks Centre, who is qualifi ed to teach novice turn, there will be another two days of are still possible, and that there still exists outsiders. Such a Lama is not easy to fi nd, teachings, with the High Lama, further people with the steel and hunger required due to the total differences in cultures perfecting the students learnings. This for such monumentous tasks. “Onwards that exist between the east and west. will give participants the opportunity to and upwards”, as the old explorers call It will be an opportunity for people to ask any new questions that have evolved went, seems most fi tting for this team get a concise set of teachings daily, as since there time away. There will be also and leader. ■ well as yoga, pranayama (breathing) and opportunities for lifesaving splashes in You can contact the Enlightenment team via their numerous other learnings, as they stay at the nearby secret hot springs, before website [email protected]. Pat Kauba the monastery. and after their jaunt up the mountain. is a freelance writer and photographer with a Then starts trekking and camping Antonio empasises his belief in the respect for the questing of new discoveries. He can be contacted at [email protected]. for six to seven days, up to the Tibet importance of fusing learning and

78 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np

HINDSIGHT

Thin Places Pt. 2 Pilgrimage to the Khembalung Caves Text By ANN ARMBRECHT Almost two decades ago, anthropologist Ann Armbrecht joined a group of Rai villagers on an arduous mountain pilgrimage to the sacred caves of Khembalung, in eastern Nepal. The story began in last month’s magazine. Here, in the second and concluding part of the story, Ann continues and concludes the ritual journey after describing her close relationship with the women of Hedangna village.

often joined the women in the fi elds in Hedangna, helping with digging and planting and cutting and carry- ing, doing whatever I could to create somethingI in common for us to share. Though I was slower and clumsier, they welcomed the free labor and perhaps the novelty of having me around. Dur- ing breaks in the work, when we were gathered on a rock or under a tree, the women, old and young, would reach for my hands and rub their fi ngers slowly across my skin. They would turn over my hand and feel the palm, pulling the fi ngers up close to their eyes, and they would comment to each other on how smooth and white it was. Then they would hold up their own hands and feet, which were tough and dark, next to mine and shake their heads. They lived by their hands, they would say, and I lived by my head. The women in Hedangna want skin like mine. They want some padding in their lives, want to be able to stay in side for a while and let their bodies become smooth and white and soft. I went to He- dangna because I wanted skin like theirs. I wanted its thickness and its toughness, a toughness that seemed to be a sign of an internal strength, a thickening from the inside that allowed them to get by without a lot of external support. Their dark, callused skin enabled them to walk through their lives barefoot, enduring, not avoiding, the sharpness and the pain encountered along the way. I was raised in a world where the an- swer to a problem or the solution to pain was always out there, around the next Barun River Valley

80 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np corner, in the next place or next job or wildfl owers, red tika powder, coins, even shadows. Several red plastic bangles and next year. I was educated away from my a watch were placed haphazardly on the a white cotton shirt sewn by a tailor in home, taught to believe there was more pile of stones beneath the prayer fl ags. Hedangna had been placed amidst the to be gained by moving forward than Until now, people had been quiet, usual bits of cloth and coins: offerings by staying put. I came to Hedangna, a focused on the trail and the destina- brought by a couple seeking a child. community where people still farm their tion. Once in the amphitheater, the Outside, more juniper was burned. land their ancestors cleared eleven gen- atmosphere changed. There was work One of the Brahmans chanted prayers erations ago, because I wanted to learn to be done, and everyone set out busily for the well-being of our group; we what it took to stay at home. I wondered to do it. Two women pulled out clumps tossed bits of uncooked rice into the what life was like without the leather and of string that they coiled into bundles, juniper smoke, and the Brahman wiped the plastic. I came to Hedangna because dipped in ghee, and lit as candles. One the ashes on our foreheads as a blessing, I wanted to relearn what it meant to live couple carefully placed a small tin trident a tika. We then began the descent. Not from the inside, with my hands and my below the prayer fl ags. A young man who until we reached the dirt trail coming up feet and my heart − because I wanted to had come on the pilgrimage to assist his from the valley fl oor, two hours later, did remember what their ways of living have mother sat off to the side, staring at the I begin to relax. I paused to pull my boots never let them forget. And as I climbed opening in the top of the cave through back on and followed the others back to the rock face to the Khembalung caves, which the water fl owed. There was no the cave where we had spent the previous I found myself entering one of the thin- way people could have made this hole or night. The women who had been unable nest places I had ever been. the waterfall, he told me. It could only to go to the sacred caves because they Two hours after leaving the valley have been made by a god. That is why were menstruating sat by a smoldering, fl oor, the trail leveled, and we began to we had to give offerings. A middle-aged smoky fi re. They added some wood to climb the fi nal section through thick man who had moved to Hedangna from the coals to heat water for tea, and we clumps of juniper. Spiky roots and sharp southern Nepal paused in his prepara- snacked on roasted corn fl our mixed stones under the juniper bushes made tions to scan over the amphitheater. He with sugar. The two oldest women said me aware of my bare feet, by now used had heard about this place for a long they were too tired to continue north up to the cold. While climbing, we had only time, he told me, since he was young. the valley and that they would wait for been able to see the rock immediately “Now that we are fi nally here,” he said, us there. We packed our loads and set ahead and the valley dropping out be- “we have to take our time and make sure out once again. low. As we came over the last incline, we do things right.” The valley fl oor was brilliant green the most sacred site in the upper Arun The time spent in the cave was not from the summer rains, and there was Valley − the Khembalung caves − sud- what I think of as spiritual. There were fi nally a bit of blue sky. The air on my denly loomed before us: an immense too many people, too much commo- bare feet that morning had dried the amphitheater carved out of the cliff tion, too much concern about this piece skin, and the raw parts felt less painful. with a torrent of water pouring from an of string, that piece of cloth. I was too With the climb to the caves over, I felt opening at the top of the cave. Buddhists preoccupied with how we were going carefree for the fi rst time in days. As we say Padmasambhava meditated here to get back down the cliff. But the cave walked up the valley, one man speculated on his way to Tibet. say Shiva was awesome. Now the voices and din that the weather had turned because of bathed here on the evening before his echoed off its high ceiling, but I imag- the particularly strong dharma (spiritual wedding to . Now, snatches from ined what it would be like to be there practice) of someone in our group. The the high-pitched chants of the Chetri alone, with only the sound of the wind idea that sun and rain responded to pilgrims drifted down from the base of and the torrent of water spraying against our thoughts and actions reassured me the amphitheater. the rock. Outside, the ground dropped somehow and made me feel less exposed We approached the cave from below, out abruptly and steeply, and all I could in this vast landscape. We walked until fi rst stopping at a smaller stone cairn to see was the Barun River, silver and silent, early evening and spent that night in a hang offerings of narrow thin bits of winding its way through the distant green huge open cave at 15,000 feet. The next colored cotton cloth. Then, in single meadows far below. morning we climbed the remaining few fi le, we walked through the waterfall. We fi nished at Shiva’s cave, walked hours so that we could bathe in the head- Those before me stood directly under down a narrow path through the juniper, waters of the Barun on the morning of the torrent and drenched themselves in around the ridge to a smaller cave set the full moon. the freezing water. It was still drizzling, in the rock face. For Hindus, this is the The next evening, another cave, and cold. Already chilled, I skirted the cave where she is said to have bathed. another long day walking in more misty edges, hoping no one would notice, and For Buddhists, this cave is where Pad- rain. There had been confusion over a followed the others up the last rocky masambhava and his consort, Yeshe bag I had left behind with the grand- stretch and into the cave. Tsogyel, are said to have stayed on their mothers, who we discovered had decided The air inside was cold and dry and way from India to Tibet. We took turns to head home before us. One of the laced with the sweet smell of burning crawling into a space that would hold women reprimanded me for not taking juniper. Red and green, blue and yellow only three or four at a time. The air responsibility for my own things. A man prayer fl ags brought by the Bhotes and was pungent from the burning butter. who had told me the previous day to attached to long sticks rose out of a Light from string butter candles set on leave the extra weight behind looked at pile of stones in the center of the cave. the fl oor illuminated exposed chunks me with disdain and said that he had told Smaller bits of cloth were attached to of quartz crystals along the inside of me he would carry the bag. I turned and sticks or rocks. String candles, clumps of the cave. The rest of the cave was in walked off to the river’s edge to fi ll my

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 81 HINDSIGHT water bottle. It was dusk, and the sky was body fl oat down the Arun River, the with each step. We joked and laughter to still overcast. [AS] I stood on the banks mother of the dead man held up her keep our minds off the pain. of the Barun River, alone, I thought hand in front of me. It was cracked and The trail continued to descend steep- about how hard it was trying − trying to dark. “We all feel love,” she told me. “We ly. Yaks gave way to water buffalo and walk fast enough, to say the right thing, all feel pain. We all bleed when we are cows, and we began to meet shepherds to understand the right way trying to cut. It is only the mindhum (oral tradition) from Hedangna. Finally, we could see the get it right. In Hedangna, I had novels that is different.” The skin contains the village, far down the ridge. We had been to read and a tiny room with a door I blood, preventing it from spilling over; rushing, and now the women wanted could shut, a door that, oddly enough, it creates the distinctions that enable to linger, to hold on to the remaining was what protected me from this start us to live. But the skin can become too bits of time that were outside regular, realization of my solitude. thick. It can keep us from seeing blood routine time. We paused on top of the For the past fi ve days, these barriers underneath, from sensing what Roberto ridge to eat the last of our corn fl our. had been stripped away, and this sudden Calasso calls the “connection of every- One woman signed and said she was so and complete exposure made me acutely thing with everything, which alone gives happy up here, in the meadows and the aware of the gap between my world and meaning to life.” It can keep us from mountains, that she didn’t want to go the world of my companions. I stared at experiencing the sacred. home. Two women separated the tiny the cold gray rapids thundering through the cold gray fog. Why was I here, alone, in the middle of nowhere? Why did I “...in the moment I felt most alone I realized I was keep going out on my own into the wind and rain and the wet? never alone. The sacred is always there waiting to I inhaled the cold, moist air and wake us and be seen by us, like a tree waiting to searched the shadows beneath the Khembalung caves, searched the thick greet our newly opened eyes.” fi r trees clinging to the edges of the val- ley fl oor. The mist moved swiftly and silently along the banks of the Barun. We make pilgrimages to sacred places, wildfl owers they had collected from the The silty river roared. Then the clouds but the places themselves are not inher- fi elds beyond Yangle Meadow to bring suddenly opened and a shaft of light ently sacred. We enter the sacred when as gifts for friends who had had to stay broke through the fog, turning the gray we let go of the fear of being exposed: home. Two others divided a bottle of water silver, the black fi r a deep green. Only when I gave up trying to hide what water, taken from the headwaters of the An angular cliff appeared out of the was inside did the boundaries between Barun. The sun was beginning to set. clouds overhead. The red-gray granite, us begin to dissolve. And in the moment We began the last stretch, down and softened by the yellow evening light, was I felt most alone, I realized I was never down. We came across leeches for the framed by the heavy dark clouds. And alone. The sacred, as Calasso writes, is fi rst time but were too tired to pull them then, just as suddenly, the fog closed in always there “waiting to wake us and be off. An hour later we entered the edges again, and night fell. seen by us, like a tree waiting to greet our of the village, in the dark. I was the only I took a deep breath and turned to newly opened eyes.” It is simply up to us one with a torch and my batteries were walk back to the cave to help prepare to let ourselves see. dim, so our pace slowed to a crawl. The dinner. In the cave, a younger woman Having reached our destination, every- trail wound beneath thick clumps of came over to tell me that they were all one was suddenly in a hurry to begin the bamboo towering over the stone and with their families and neighbors, that for trip home. Rice fi elds needed to be weed- mud houses. People broke off from the them it was as if they had never left home. ed, millet planted, houses looked after. group as we passed the narrow paths to She said that they had forgotten that it We left early the following morning and their homes. Eventually, it was only the was different for me, that sometimes, she walked twelve hours, over a 15,0900-foot two oldest women and myself, walking thought, I must feel lonely or homesick, scree pass, and then descended steeply down to the houses at the bottom of the and that she hoped I was OK. past grazing yaks and shepherds’ huts. We village. We fi nally arrived, I dropped by During the whole trip, I felt an ache walked on after dark for an hour, search- pack and leaned it against the stone wall. in my chest, a longing that would not go ing for a place to spend the night. Finally, Someone went inside to cook rice. The away. I thought there must be a place, ten of us crowded into a small empty children gathered around, and I sat on somewhere, where I could be held, bamboo hut. I had a mat, so I kicked away the mud porch to unlace my boots. My here, no, on the inside. If only I could the cow and goat dung, spread it out on socks were wet with blood. I carefully get to that place, I was sure the yearning the dank fl oor of the attached livestock peeled them off so the air could begin would disappear. Now I realize that this shelter, and tried to sleep. we again woke the slow process of healing − and thick- feeling of aloneness is not something before dawn and started walking hard and ening − the exposed raw skin. ■ that ever goes away. It is always there, fast until we reached another shepherd’s underneath the words spoken, inside my hut where we stopped to drink some sour Ann Armbrecht is an anthropologist and educa- boots. It’s what comes up in thin places. buttermilk. Since climbing to the caved, I tor, and the author of Settlements of Hope (1989) and Thin Places: A Pilgrimage Home (2010). It’s what you feel then the skin peels off had given up bandaging or even looking This article first appeared in Terra Nova 3 (1), your feet. at my feet, but this time, I was no longer 1998, and is reprinted by permission of Ann Three months earlier at a cremation the only one limping. The women leaned Armbrecht and The MIT Press. Ann Armbrecht can be contacted at [email protected]. in Hedangna, as we watched the burned heavily on walking sticks and groaned

82 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np

OdeText & PhotosBy PAT KAUBA to olde

hen sitting with the old-timers listen- ing to tales regaled about pristine Nepal from 20, 30, even 50 years ago; I would feel remorseful, cheated,W like I missed the best part of the movie. ‘Oh I remember Swyambu when it was all rice-fi elds from Chetrapathi and you had to be home by nightfall or the leopards would get you’ or how about ‘we used to swim in the Bagmati River when I was a child’. This is an ongoing project capturing glimpses of a disappearing time and land via the medium of black and white fi lm. I always found this medium gives the connotation of age or olden days, whereas modern digital color gives a feel- ing of near futuristic viewing. My work doubles in reminding us of the beauty of ageless time, with a method that is also fast-fading—like the glimpses I grabbed. ■ [email protected] VISUAL STORYTELLING

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 85 VISUAL STORYTELLING

86 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np

PICTURE PERFECT

For the love of nature Text & Photos By HARI MAHARJAN(ECS Media)

ature was, is and will always her responses captured in my instru- be my favorite source of in- ment - always shy of getting it all, of spiration to read into myself, understanding her fully and explaining to understand myself and to her through my art. Ncreate from that process. She is the friend Over the years, as I changed, trans- I share my ideas with; a canvas upon forming with the passage of each day, which with the strokes of my brush, I my surroundings remained the same. paint my composition. I fi nd solace in All of it changed by not changing at the myriad shades of the hours, as light all, with only my perspectives - some plays with my friend, showing off all that sharpened, some dulled by the passage she has to show. of times - changing. My love for nature Nature is my muse when I need one, however, remains, as buoyant, enthu- the best one there is for my artistic sen- siastic and exciting as a schoolboy’s sibilities. I bounce back ideas with her, fi rst love. ■

Late afternoon mood in Bardiya,Thakurdwara

88 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np An early morning View of Swayambhu from Chobhar with Nagarjuna hills in the background

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 89 PICTURE PERFECT

Monsoon in Fewa Taal, Pokhara

90 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np An evening view of Jumla

Capturing the night scene of Mount Numbur in Phaplu

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 91 PICTURE PERFECT

The quiet Lubhu Village

92 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np Bardiya sunset

Chasing waterfalls in Godawari

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 93 PICTURE PERFECT

Tundikhel during early monsoon season

94 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np Mesmerized by the November sunset in Nagarkot

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 95 The Nepali Way An ECS NEPAL photo competition

Food f we were to exclude food from our conversations, half of the Nepali population would have no clue as to how to start a conversation. (“Khana khanuI bhayo?” “Chya khanu bhayo?” etc.) Food is more than just nourish- ment for a Nepali though, it’s role in Nepali culture is honestly, quite major. Every Nepali ritual, from birth to death, requires distinct offerings of food. To ensure success, every undertaking starts with and ends with - a sagun.

First Aakriti Karna Kupondol,Lalitpur

A man sippingi i tea duringd i heavyh rains.i Second Prabina Shrestha University Road, Kuleshwor, Kathmandu Breakfast - Sel and gwaramari are two of the most delicious local breakfast items. I miss them more now that I’m away from home and appreciate the man’s skills even more after trying to make sel on my own this Tihar.

Third Sushil Sthapit Kupondol, Lalitpur Juju Dhau, the popular milk curd from Bhaktapur, being sold on the street.

CONSOLATION Kamal Shakya Paknajole, Kathmandu People from neighboring India come to pay their tribute during the annual Devghat Mela in Chitwan.

CONSOLATION Umes Shrestha Lalitpur Traditional Newari delicacies - sukuti, momo, aaila and chhyang - at Lahana, Kirtipur.

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 97 Sumedh Shakya Ujjwal Gurung Kupondol, Lalitpur Chundevi, Chakrapath, Kathmandu Garlic, an essential ingredient in a Nepali kitchen. Sanu Tamang, an 11-year-old student at Banepa, gobbles her meal to get to school on time, while her dog patiently waits for leftovers.

Tomoko Ueno Ghale Sajana Shrestha Shree Marga, Lazimpat, Kathmandu Kupondol, Lalitpur An achaar vendor and his customers; all Nepalis seem to Local bananas on sale on the Prithivi Highway. like a bit of hot achaar with their meals.

Pradip Ratna Tuladhar School of Creative Communications, Kupondol, Lalitpur An offering made to the newly married bride from her parents marking her fi nal feast at her own home, before leaving for her new home.

the NEPALI way Photo Contest

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www.ecs.com.np CRAFT

102 CRAFT RIGHT NOW 104 REVIEWS: Crafted in The Village 106 IN THE STUDIO WITH: Newari craft Revisited 108 ART SHOP: Sustainable Solutions ECS Media

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 101 CRAFT CRAFT RIGHT NOW

Dhukuti Celebrates Christmas KOH KAINE

KOH KAINE - the name implies the attrac- tion the store has among its clients. Koh Kaine was started a year before in No- vember 2010. The store offers wide range of items from clothing to customized jewelry and furniture. Intricately woven cashmere shawls, stoles and scarves and knit wears are available in various styles that were designed for this fall. The store also has kids wear along with home furnishings. The store also takes or- ders for customized jewelry and furniture to meet the demands and satisfaction of customers. Handmade and crafted home accessories made up of natural fibers are also available in Koh Kaine. The special feature of Koh Kaine is that it deals with varieties of products and has something

Dhukuti, the retail outlet and pro- “Even though Christmas is not our festival, moter of ACP organized an annual local handicraft is very popular among Christmas celebration program at its foreigners as well as Nepalese who Kupondole showroom for their stake- celebrate Christmas,” informed Executive holders, grass root producers, regular Director Mira Bhattarai. According to her, for everyone in store. However, its plus customers and staff on 4 December. the small-scale producers from Thankot point comes with it choosing to use The event focused on the promotion were surprised to see the use of their natural fibers and fabrics. It aims to draw of various local craft products used for products, simple straw wreaths as decora- aesthetic appeal towards its products and Christmas decorations such as straw tive items. Dhukuti has been catering to successfully does so by creating a line of wreaths, wooden windows and bells. Nepal’s handicraft industry since 1984. beautiful products that clearly does not compromise in comfort or quality. (Nimma Adhikari) 7th Craft Competition 2011 Terracotta Craft Exhibition

Mato Pottery & Craft held a two-day exhibition of terracotta craft starting 23 November at Pipal in Gairidhara. The exhibition aimed at generating youth interest and showing them that working with clay is a legitimate way to earn a living as well as a powerful way to express creativity. Terracotta artwork was avail- able for purchase at the shop; ranging from tea and dining sets to classic Nepali-style clay lanterns. Also available were vases featuring intricate designs and life-like effigies of gods and people exemplifying the detail masters of this craft can produce. The Federation of Handicraft Associa- silver jewelries and the ten participants The event was organized by Shoba Rayama- tion of Nepal (FHAN) organized the 7th painting paubha were given five days to jhi of 1905 restaurant, who also participates Craft Competition 2011 during the 9th complete their work. in crafting clay pieces. She spoke lovingly of Handicraft Trade Fair inside the venue Winners were announced on the last day the art: “I have been working with clay for itself. There were three categories of of the fair, during the closing ceremony. about four years now and I really wish I had participation- paper items, silver jewelries Sundar Banjade was awarded with the more time for the craft. It’s my passion but and paubha paintins. Best Artist Paubha Award. The Best Artist I just don’t have time these days.” The Pipal One day was given to the five participants Silver Jewelry Award went to Siddhant shop also features other Nepali craft goods, who prepared paper items. Two days were Shakya and Sabin Bhatta was given the from stained glass pieces to various lotions. allocated for the six participants preparing Best Artist Paper Award. (Bhisma Thapa)

102 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np If there is a greater joy than in Giving a Gift, It is in crafting one.

Buddha curing a sick monk Size: 19”X16” Price: Rs.12,000 Visit by appointment only

Delivery: home or office How to find us Shora Khutte Thamel Order by:

Dhobi Chour Chhetrapati Chowk Contact: 4289003, 9851068196

Thahity Dhalko Fax: 4289003 Bijeshwori Chhetrapati Temple Free Health Crafted in Kathmandu Clinic E-mail: [email protected]

B Hotel

i s

h Harati Visit us at: 14 Raja Birendra Marg, Dallu

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Swoyambhu Dallu Vajra a t Chautra i Website: www.craftedinkathmandu.com.np Nardevi Amar Chitrakar Marg Temple R Way to iv Dallu e Ason Awas Area r Nardevi Hospital Crafted in Kathmandu Siddhartha Marg Kathmandu Dallu Durbar Square 14 Raja Birendra Marg Awas Area Raja Birendra Marg Kasthamandap Way to Mahendra New Road Ratna Campus Ward No. 15, Dallu Chhauni Barrack Chhauni Museum Marg Tel/Fax: 4289003 Museum Kalimati Teku Email: [email protected] CRAFT REVIEWS Crafted in The Village A café ‘with a difference’, The Village promotes locally produced handicrafts with much creativity and zeal. Text By NIKITA TRIPATHI

he Village Café in Pulchowk is of SABAH Nepal a place to be, a small yet well- have participated and managed place at that. Besides their items are also on the café, it houses a huge collec- for sale now. tionT of handicraft items that cater to a Rooms are small customer range that goes beyond expats. and items are stacked The items are displayed with as much almost everywhere; creativity as it must have taken to make the variety of items them - a bulletin board and a hanger by comes to one’s res- the front door with bags pinned to the cue. As soon as you board very decoratively. step inside, you see The café is an amalgamation of both metal handicrafts on traditional and contemporary. Being the left with the in- a traditional Newari eatery, there are side full of shawls, acrylic paintings of Newari women handbags, thailis, metal preparing various delicacies. The juxta- brooches, potes and position presents a contrast with Mithila small accessories. One ECS Media paintings beside the wooden benches. cannot help but notice The handicraft show room however is the cloth calendar on on the inside. the right-hand side The product range available at The corner of the room. Village has been categorized into kitchen Everything inside the items, bedroom items, metal handicrafts room is a traditionally-inclined form of the items on didisplay, l bbutt one can sortt and various apparels. According to creativity. through items made from allo fi ber, raadi, WE (Empowering Women) member On the right is the room with various silk, cotton, hemp, bamboo and banana. Jyoti Tuladhar, initially only items from apparels from SABAH Nepal’s October Items in this part of the building include SAARC countries were displayed but it fashion show - Ananta: The Enchanting garbs like kurthas, dresses, bags, has been a year since seventeen members Weave. Dhaka is a prominent part of and gloves. Two rooms upfront display bed- room items and kitchen items each. From bed-sheets to cushions and even fabric curtains and the bed are for sale. The curtains are priced at NRs. 1100 each. Apart from the cutlery sets in the kitchen section, aprons, organic tea, coffee, masala, juice, beans, lentils and hand-made wrapping papers are also on display. The handicraft initiative at The Village provides a market for home-based female producers who otherwise would have no place to put their goods on display. The showroom in Lazimpat has been catering to this need for almost two years now and the showroom in Pulchowk has wit- nessed a growth in number of customers who initially only comprised of foreigners

ECS Media and a few UN staffs. ■

104 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np SHOPPING

DHAKA KIT BAG-L Code: BGK/180, Rs.322 DHAKA KIT BAG-S Code: BGK/181, Rs.271

WOOLEN SCRAF Code: CTF/140, Rs.255

COPPER TEAPOT-S Code: MLT 119, Rs.772

COPPER FIRE PIT Code: MLX/450, Rs.28166 GLASS BELL CHIME SWAN PLANTER Code: GLX/113, Rs.550 Code: CLP/659, Rs.610

FISH TRAY-M Code: MLY/128, Rs.578 FISH TRAY-L Code: MLY/127, Rs.786

FISH TRAY-S Code: MLY/129, Rs.359

COPPER TEA POT-S COPPER TEA POT-L Code: MLT/115, Rs.1106 Code: MLT/106, Rs.1370

CUTTING PLATE-S Code: CLC/701, Rs.733

CUTTING PLATE-L Code: CLC/702, Rs.1227

FELT HOT WATER BAG Code: BGX/181, Rs.439

CUTTING PLATE-M Code: CLC/700, Rs.972 CRAFT IN THE STUDIO WITH

Newari craft Revisited A small initiative makes a big difference in preserving and promoting Newar art and craft. Text By PRIANKA RAUNIYAR

ewa Décor, a small social a retail outlet at Change- venture started by two vi- Fusion Nepal’s shop at brant yet demure budding Babarmahal Revisited. entrepreneurs Mala- The store holds products Nkar Shrestha and Rita Shrestha, is an ranging from wooden attempt at preserving traditional Newari crafted corner sets (known wooden and metal craft. With the dwin- as Tashi in Newari), metal dling interest in the old and an unnerving show pieces of gods and charm for the new, Nepali craft needs goddesses and smaller gift the revival and preservation this ven- items like hand-carved ture strives for. Rita Shrestha believes, pens and key chains along with this effort they are trying to bring with Newari paintings and the traditional and blend it in with the silver jewelry. Newa Dé- modern. It’s a tough task but they are cor is essentially working determined to take the little steps hoping as a supplier at the mo- to contribute in conserving a culture that ment, even taking orders ECS Media they identify most with. over the phone. They Newa Décor were selected as Change- customize your needs and Fusion Nepal’s 2009 Fellows. This helped provide unique ancient them gain some visibility and economic Newari designs collated and inspired by used to hold oil lamps and various reli- support since both the founders had a temples and the very few old Newari gious metal statues. Similarly, the Sukunda vision and the grit but not the fi nancial houses in the valley, especially around the which is again an essential Newari piece, ability to pull it off. Now, Newa Décor has durbar squares. is an intricately designed metal oil lamp that protrudes as a diyo and has an small oil reservoir with a tiny spoon attached They customize your needs and provide unique to add oil to a lit lamp. It comes in dif- ancient Newari designs collated and inspired by ferent sizes and is often engraved with images of the and other gods. temples and the very few old Newari houses in Enchanting yet extremely handy, the sukunda is one of the main sale items the valley, especially around the durbar squares. Newa Décor offers. A social initiative, though in it’s very early stages, Newa Décor is trying to The tashi is one of the rare motivate local traditional artisans to pre- crafts that Newa Décor spe- serve their ethnic identity and creative cializes in, remarks Rita. It is skills by bringing to fore elements of essentially a beautifully carved, the Newari culture that would otherwise wooden corner rack, which can have frittered away to oblivion. It hasn’t be wall mounted in living or bed- been easy she claims since we only had rooms to utilize the space to keep the drive to protect and limited knowl- your books, showpieces etc. The edge or business expertise. But like with holder is carved with either mayur any project, though the risk of failure is (peacock) or sala (horse) motifs present, the will to conserve and con- and their names derived accord- tribute even in the slightest way possible ingly as Mekha Tashi (Newari for to uplift the craftsmen and allow these peacock) and Sala Tashi. Back amazing skills to pass on to the new

ECS Media in the old days, these tashis were generation, should triumph. ■

106 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np Jewels of Newar Art Baber Mahal Revisited in between Chez Caroline & Siddhartha Art Gallery Maitighar, Kathmandu, Nepal Hours: 1 pm - 7 pm Contact: 4251341, 9851091255 Fax: 5554880 Email: [email protected] Website: www.bodhisattvagallery.com For rare museum quality Newar art CRAFT ART SHOP Sustainable Solutions Sustainable alternatives to commercial clothing and accessories that might outlast the consumer Text By EVANGELINE NEVE

or years now, the Roses’ com- pany, Wild Fibers, has been on an evolving journey to produce the best quality thread and fabric

Fpossible, using locally sourced, sustain- ECS Media able, wild growing plants. Wild Fibers had its inception in 1993, born of a desire to provide a quality alternative to cotton. Cotton, now grown all over the developing world, not only uses a large Another item they are extremely proud of is their amount of chemical pesticides, but also the need for it pushes up prices which, new line of bags—as with the shirts, these might understandably, causes it to be grown set you back a little more than your average local instead of food crops, and that usually in countries where food is scarce or in purchase, but count on them lasting forever. limited production. Originally, their desire was to use hemp, and after setting up business in no use for it, the company nearly ended enough thread for making cloth that Nepal, they spread the word to villagers up in the paper business—only to be is 100 % nettle—ironically because the that they would buy their hemp. Only af- saved by a coincidental encounter with a tensile strength of the nettle thread is ter stripping off the bark and beginning villager wearing an old jacket made from such that it breaks machines meant for work on it did they fi nd that as it had nettle. The wild and sustainable fabric cotton and wool. So Wild Fibers has gone to seed already, it was too tough for long searched for was in hand. ordered a custom built one, and when clothing. With 44 tons of the wood and It took several years of difficulties it arrives perhaps next year, it will take before the business became what it is the production of nettle fabric in Nepal today—a premier producer of natural to a whole new level. As nettles grow nettle thread, which the Roses export, sup- wild all over Nepal, no cultivation or ply local producers with, as well as manu- pesticides are needed, and villagers can facture their own line of quality clothing. benefi t directly from gathering a product You can see a large variety of what can that will still be there tomorrow, and the be made with this versatile plant at their day after, sustainably reproducing itself showroom in Thamel Chowk, under the with no effort from them and without Yeti Airlines offi ce. Rugs, towels, bags of taking resources that would be used to all sizes, slippers—and much more. Their grow food. bestselling items are their shirts—blended Something that struck me when speak- with cotton and nettle and woven with ing with the Roses was that here were a quality and strength that ensures your people who put their money where their clothing might even outlast you. Another mouth was, so to speak, and instead of just item they are extremely proud of is their preaching about the world’s problems, had new line of bags—as with the shirts, these chosen to do something about it—in the might set you back a little more than your form of a creative and profi table business. average local purchase, but count on them If more people did this, there’d be a lot lasting forever. more solutions around. ■ Currently, there isn’t a machine here For more information: 4218410

ECS Media capable of spinning nettles into a fi ne

108 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np

www.ecs.com.np TRAVEL

112 TRAVEL NEWS 114 REVIEWS: Sanctuary away from home ECS Media 116 PEOPLE ON GO: A relentless adventurer 118 GOOD TO KNOW: Before you hit the road TRAVEL NEWS

Pokhara Street Festival Growth in tourist arrivals

Nepal welcomed half a million tour- ists via air until November 2011. A total of 501264 tourists entered the country via air during the first eleven months of Nepal Tourism Year 2011 according to Tribhuvan International Airport Immigration Office. The last eleven months have seen consistent growth in arrivals of international tourist to Nepal at an average of 21.5 percent which means around 1,518 visitors a day. A total 58156 tourists visited Nepal via air over the period of eleven months. There has been a healthy rise of 20.3 % in com- parison to arrival figure of the same period last year. The Restaurant and Bar Association Nepal According to the organizers, dances of (REBAN) is organizing the 13th Pokhara different ethnic groups such as Gurung, Arrivals from India registered growth of Street Festival from 28 December for five Newars, Tamang, Magar and Tharu will 22.1 percent, Sri Lanka of 22.1 percent days. There will be around 150 stalls also be featured. Various artists will also and of 27.4 percent. How- from Fishtail Gate to Dihikopatan. The entertain the people with Nepali folk and ever, tourist arrivals from Bangladesh festival is organized annually at this time dohori songs. Different activities such as witnessed a negative growth of 11.8% of the year to promote Pokhara and the tourist race, boat race, waiter race and this year. Countries like China, Japan, neighboring areas during the off-season, other activities will be organized alongside Malaysia, Singapore and South Korea when activities such as mountaineering, the display of different handicrafts, home- maintained the upward trend with trekking, and rafting are not conducted. made items and readymade garments. 149.4%, 6.2%, 9%, 16.9% and 11.3% of growth respectively. \The Europe also maintained positive growth except for Belgium, the Neth- Annapurna Base Camp to be connected erlands and Switzerland. Arrivals from the US, , Australia and also increased compared to the same month last year.

HAN and CHA come together

Hotel Association of Nepal (HAN) and China Tourist Hotel Association (CHA) signed a memorandum of understanding valid for five years on the final day of the three-day World Congress of Interna- tional Hotel and Restaurant Association (IHRA) on 30 November. HAN President Prasidha B. Pandey and CHA President HAN Ming signed the agreement in the capital. The agreement focuses on promotion of tourism and hotel-restaurant industry Internet service will soon be available at An- Since a year and a half, four telephone in the two countries as well as to work napurna and Machhapuchhre base camps lines of Nepal Telecom distributed via together in developing and implement- in the Annapurna region, which at present V-SAT technology have been the only ing programs and projects related to is only available up to Chhomrong. An- medium of communication in the region. tourism and hotel-restaurant industry in napurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) A tower with a wireless device will be Nepal and China. According to MoU, and Tourism Management Sub-Committee erected at Chhomrong very soon. ACAP HAN and CHA will provide materials of Chhomrong have been preparing to has already provided Rs 500,000 for the related to tourism promotion, especially expand Internet service in the area. The cost project and the sub-committee is chip- related with hotel for distribution to of expanding Internet service in the area is ping in Rs 300,000 while the remaining agencies, tour operators, travel agents estimated at NRs 2 million. amount will be arranged locally. and individual tourists.

112 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np TRAVEL NEWS

International Hotel & Restaurant Association’s World Congress : An Overview Text By MADHAV OM SHRESTHA

otel Association Nepal (HAN) Bahadur Chhetri, Vice Chairman of Na- successfully hosted the In- tional Planning Commission, Dr. Yub Raj ternational Hotel & Restau- Khatiwada, Governor of Nepal Rastra rant Association’s 49th World Bank, Dr. Ganesh Raj Joshi, Secretary of HCongress in Kathmandu, Nepal on Tourism Ministry, Mr. Yogendra Sakya, 28-30 November 2011 for the second National Coordinator NTY 2011, Mr. time since the fi rst one 26 years ago. Dipendra Purush Dhakal, Former Tour- The theme of the world congress was ism Secretary and Mr. Prachanda Man Redefi ning Excellence in Standards for the Shrestha, a tourism Expert. Hospitality Industry. All the sessions were quite interactive IH&RA is the only global business and various contemporary issues were the discussions held at the congress, there organization representing the hospital- raised, including the disclosure that the is an urgent need to revise the procedure. ity industry worldwide. Recognized by tourism industry contributes less than IH&RA’s Secretariat assured HAN that it the United Nations, the IHRA moni- 2.5 of the total emission of Co2 world- would provide technical support if neces- tors and lobbies all international agen- wide and is still one of the major forces sary for revising the classifi cation system in cies on behalf of the industry. The fi ghting the effects of climate change. collaboration with the government. association brings together 300,000 Another vibrant issue raised was that During the session entitled Nepal Tour- hotels and 7 million restaurants and worldwide government’s intention to raise ism Investment & Realities, the Nepal side employs 60 million people, contribut- taxes on tourism industry. One European talked on the congenial environment in ing USD 950 billion annually to the country charges as much as 26% VAT but Nepal for international investment. All the global economy. The IH&RA is a not there are governments such as those of speakers unanimously put forward the gov- for profi t association. France, Serbia and Cyprus who accepted ernment’s liberal policies, security system, VAT reduction to a single digit for the hos- friendly industrial environment and laws DELIBERATION IN DIFFERENT pitality sector and/or on the food business. pertaining to getting back investment and SESSIONS There was a general consensus on the hope th profi ts for their home countries. Partici- The 49 IH&RA World Congress has that the Government of Nepal would listen pants of the session were presented with a discussed few important issues of cur- to HAN’s plea to reduce VAT from 13% to clear understanding of the investment op- rent world such as: The New Trend 10%, because it uses more food items that portunities in Nepal’s tourism sector. in Hospitality in 2011-2012, Climate are exempted from taxation. During the discussion, most par- Change Issues, Sustainability Forum and Another important issue, the standard- ticipants and experts advocated that the Biodiversity Emeraude Hotels and Nepal ization of hotels was also discussed in tourism industry is an industry that can Tourism Investment and Realities. Some detailed. It was found that only 26% have play a major role in the eradication of of the eminent scholars and the experts a system covering other tourist accom- poverty. Global data regarding the open- who participated in the session were Dr. modation types. 26% also use it primarily ing of 10 hotels every day and 100 jobs Ghassan Aidi, President of IH&RA, Mr. for administrative purposes. In 53% of the by each hotel clearly shows its potential Frederic Pierret, Executive Director for cases, the hotel classifi cation system has for economic development. Program and Coordination at UNWTO, been devised by national public authori- Hosting the IH&RA’s 49th World Mr. Casimir Platzed, Vice President of ties with the involvement of the private Congress is indeed a great achievement IH&RA and Dr. Wolf Gang Weinz, sector. Nepal comes in this category. Since for HAN and the country. With hard Director of Hospitality Sector-ILO. the classifi cation procedure adopted by work, HAN was able to bring the event Representing Nepal were Mr. Dipendra Nepal is outdated and keeping in mind to Kathmandu in order to promote the country amidst the 30 participating countries. About 200 national and inter- One European country charges as much as national, prominent hoteliers, experts, consultants attended the program. The 26% VAT but there are governments such positive impact of the event towards as those of France, Serbia and Cyprus who improving Nepal’s image and bringing more tourists in the years to come will accepted VAT reduction to a single digit for the be proved in the coming days. hospitality sector and/or on the food business. The author is Executive Director of Hotel Association Nepal (HAN).

www.ecs.com.np J A N U A R Y 2012 113 TRAVEL REVIEWS Sanctuary away from home Shangri-la Village Resort, a boutique hotel in Pokhara, offers everything contemporary and Nepali, and does it quite effortlessly. Text By NIMMA ADHIKARI

y father is from Pokhara, so when people ask me where The swimming pool is one of the other I am from, for some reason that is what my answer is. attractions in the resort. A waterfall connects However,M I am a Kathmanduite, inside and out, and I know about Pokhara as it to a smaller pool and floating in the blue much as a louse on one’s head would water, the view boasts of the peaks of the know about someone else’s head. For no apparent reason, I expected the Shangri- Annapurnas, Machhapuchhre and Dhaulagiri. la Village Resort in Pokhara to be a cube- like building with a few exotic trees. I couldn’t have been more wrong. An open corridor leads to each room canal running through the resort, cube- The resort is a 5-minute drive from and the distance between the lobby and like it was certainly not. the Pokhara Airport and Pokhara’s famed your room explains its title of ‘a boutique The resort has awe-inspiring architec- lakeside strip of restaurant and souvenir hotel’. Clichéd as it may sound, Shangri-la ture combined beautifully with an ethnic shops is a mere 10-minute ride away. I lives up to its name as a heaven on earth. Nepali village-house appeal. Each room was taken aback when I stepped into the With beautifully landscaped gardens, in the hotel is a deluxe room with an indi- lobby and then out of it to fi nd my room. exotic trees and even a decorative water vidual balcony that opens to great views giving it more of a community fell and less of a A-list hotel. The housekeepers clad in ethnic Gurung clothing greet the guests with warm smiles, making me I realize I had been less than social for too long. The swimming pool is one of the other attractions in the resort. A waterfall con- nects it to a smaller pool and fl oating in the blue water, the view boasts of the peaks of the Annapurnas, Machhapuchhre and Dhaulagiri. Other facilities at the resort are an open yoga center with closer views of the mountains and a gymnasium. ‘The Sanctuary’ is an open bar that serves a variety of drinks while ‘The Trail’s End’ is an indoor bar with a snooker table. Next to the lobby is ‘The Caravanserai’, a buffet restaurant that offers international cuisine. A little ahead of just foods and beverages, the resort also maintains a small library right above the lobby. All’s swell and all’s well with the Shangri-la Village Resort but I had this tiny problem with the TV in my room. The choices with the channels were not much and the available channels had poor reception. But then again I wonder, had the TV in my room had enough channels, would I have had a great time? It would have been pretty much the same as home I guess. Whoever goes out traveling to fi nd home?

114 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np

TRAVEL PEOPLE ON THE GO

A relentless adventurer A person of the outdoors, Megh Ale of Borderlands Resort is a passionate campaigner for river conservation. Text By PRIANKA RAUNIYAR

naturalist, an adept rafter, active river conservationist and owner of one of the fi rst An intense thirst for adventure, always on his adventure sport ventures in toes to explore and conquer, and a few life- Nepal,A Megh Ale is a well-known per- sonality in the tourism industry. Having threatening experiences later, Megh is still spent most of his life with nature, the Himalayan rivers are his passion. He fearless and enjoys the adrenaline rush. started off as a rafting instructor and guide who would travel around the world during the summers and later established farmers near the banks of Bhote Koshi Megh’s ideology of community involve- Ultimate Descents, a premier profes- on the Arniko highway and created an ment for sustainable development and sional river expeditions organization eco-adventure hub rightly calling it Border- personal growth through adventure and in 1987. lands Resort as it’s only 16kms away from self-refl ection. In this light, they organize From his experiences around the the Tibet border. In Megh’s words, “It’s Professional Development Programs world, Megh realized how neglected and not a luxury resort but is basic and clean (PDPs) for corporate houses and Leader- exploited the 6000 odd rivers in Nepal and mainly for adventure ranging ship programs for schools/colleges. were. Along with like-minded river from river rafting, kayaking, canyoning to Megh is winner of the Ashoka Fel- guides, he then formed the Nepal River off-beaten trek trails or a mountain bike lowship 2007 for his contribution to the Conservation Trust (NRCT) in 1995 to ride.” Apart from being an eco-tourism preservation of the breath taking river restore and protect them from further destination, Borderlands stays true to inheritance of Nepal. The Bagmati River degradation. His organization co- Festival is a huge celebration with a vi- ordinates with Nepal Tourism sion to keep the river clean. With events Board and the government, like cleanup campaigns, plays, plantation making policy suggestions and programs, Megh rightly thought that it is in conversation to get a river would be easier to garner support and legislation passed which will enthusiasm only by making the festival help identify which river should fun and enjoyable. Along with this, be used for what purpose. Megh lobbies to safeguard the Karnali, Megh strongly reiterates Bagmati and Seti rivers from excessive that if tourism is considered damming to produce hydro-electricity. the backbone of the Nepalese He also suggested strategic ways to re- economy, then it’s high time we duce ecological impacts on the rivers. start taking rigorous measures An intense thirst for adventure, for preservation and promotion always on his toes to explore and of this rich and valuable natural conquer, and a few life-threatening heritage. experiences later, Megh is still fearless He always believed (something and enjoys the adrenaline rush. Calm, that was verified later by Peter soft-spoken and cheerful, he sees him- Knowles, a world-renown British self working with river conservation expedition kayaker) that Nepali until his voice is heard. His wish is for waters especially the Karnali (top 5 Nepalis, not just the government, to in the world) and the Bhote Koshi change their thinking from merely (top 10) have the best rapids in the taking pride in being the ‘Bill Gates of world for rafting and kayaking. In an ECS Media water resources’, to being participative effort to bring adventure tourism to and involved in preserving it for our the fore, Megh bought land from ten future generations.

116 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np

TRAVEL GOOD TO KNOW

Before you hit the road Take note of a few pointers to ensure a safe and fun bike ride. Text By NIKITA TRIPATHI

here is no better way to travel through the Nepali countryside than on a motorbike. Whether your journey is to culminate at a presetT destination or whether you are touring to different places, taking in the sights and sounds of our beautiful country, the one and the most impor- tant thing is to be prepared. These tips from Pramod Shrestha ‘Goofy’ of Hi- malayan Enfi elders will help you have a fun, safe journey.

Prepare your motorcycle: Have the bike checked and thoroughly serviced by an au- thorized mechanic to assure it 1is ready for the trip. Change the oil and ECS Media fi lter on the motorcycle. Learn some basics about the functions of the dif- ferent parts of the bike and carry along a basic tool-kit. Always wear proper riding clothes with Check your wheels: Check the tires for any wear/tear and protective pads in the back, elbows and cracks. Taking off on a long distance trip with bad tires is knees. Gloves should fit well. Equip the just2 asking for a ruined vacation. Re- motorcycle with removable saddlebags. place both the back and front tires if necessary. Make sure they are properly infl ated, remembering that you will be carrying excess luggage. Gear up: Get yourself a well- you’re starting to feel a bit tired and fitting helmet; this essential stop riding. Stay connected: Discuss your piece of equipment can liter- itinerary with friends and fam- ally save your life. Always wear Regular check up: Check the ily members. Even if you are 4proper riding clothes with protective motorcycle over each morning not certain where you will end pads in the back, elbows and knees. before you head out. This is just 3up, giving someone a general idea of Gloves should fi t well. Equip the motor- for safety reasons. Mechanical your whereabouts will ease their minds cycle with removable saddlebags. failures6 happen to the best-maintained and allow them a general search point vehicles, so even if you believe everything in case of an emergency. Keep a cell Take a break: Every now is fi ne, go over it quickly to make sure. phone charged and easily available. This and again have a decent break. way you can check for messages when Stretch regularly- it’s impor- Be fl exible: If you come across you stop for fuel, food or the night. Go tant to do this regularly and something that strikes your in- over maps to select possible routes or 5to start before you begin to feel sore. terest, stop, explore and enjoy. destinations and mark petrol stations Remove your helmet and have a bit of That is part of the fun of a long that fall on the route. a wandering around. Recognize when 7distance motorcycle trip.

118 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np YOUR TIME IS NOW Turns

Watch out for the Anniversary issue. On stands this February! ECS COURSES In order to improveprove the skills and knowledge of your household staff, ECS offers the following courses thisthis month.h. Please let us know ifif you are interested in enrollingenrolling your staffstaff forfor these courses. Phone: 442.6439,442 6439 98510.07.90098510 07 900 Email: [email protected] or [email protected] to book a place.

EMPLOYMENT SERVICES SPECIAL COOKING Many excellent staff are registered with us, including cooks, guards, gardeners, maids and drivers. Our list FOR HOUSEHOLD STAFF is constantly updated. Interviews are carried at our office to help resolve language problems between ECS cooking course is an opportunity for your maid or our clients and the staff. If you are looking for efficient and reliable staff, please come and cook to improve his/her cooking skills. At the end of this discuss your requirements with us and don’t forget to register your staff with us before you leave. course, participants will be able to work as a cook in- INTERVIEW FEE: Rs. 1,500 PLACEMENT FEE: Rs. 2,500 dependently and can even organize a small party. The course content includes information on different food items for practical cooking and will also make them BASIC ENGLISH aware about kitchen hygiene. We teach them how to LANGUAGE prepare Indian, Chinese and continental items, as well FOR HOUSEHOLD STAFF as basic Western cooking techniques like simmer, sauté, Our English class for household staff enables etc. We will also discuss how to organize a kitchen, to them to communicate with you in simple English. prepare menus, cutting techniques, steps for serving Language structures are taught along with food during small and big parties. We will also teach vocabulary that is related to household matters them how to keep food and the kitchen hygienically (for daily use). Oral communication skills will be clean. This course helps them improve their skills so your emphasized in this course rather than reading staff will not only serve you better while you are here, and writing skills. This is a one month course, 5 but they will find it easier to find a job when you leave. days week, one hour a day. FEE: Rs. 4,000 Duration of course: 6 weeks, five days a week and two NEPALI hours a day. VENUE: Maharajgunj FEE: Rs.15,000 LANGUAGE NEPALI CLASS FOR LANGUAGE CD MEXICAN COOKING The revised ECS Nepali language CD is now FOREIGNERS Participants will be able to cook the following items. ECS Services has been supporting available. It gives you the chance not only to lis- 1. Chicken toco pie foreigners to learn the Nepali ten but also to practice your Nepali along with 2. Mexican tomato rice Language (speaking, reading and the CD. We feel that this improved CD will help 3. Spicy vegetable casserole writing) for many years. If you would you learn the Nepali language more effectively. 4. Chicken breast cream tomato sauce like to learn or improve your Nepali A booklet comes with the CD. PRICE: Rs. 999 5. Avocado bean salad vocabulary, please call us. Group or (including booklet) individual classes are available. DATE: 29th January 2012 TIME: 1.00 pm to 5.00 pm FOOD HANDLING & VENUE: Maharajgunj HYGIENE FEE: Rs. 1,200 BASIC ENGLISH FOR HOUSEHOLD STAFF READING & WRITING ECS is organizing food handling and hygiene course for FOR HOUSEHOLD STAFF your household staff. If you are unsure whether your staff ITALIAN COOKING Our clients and their staff often face prob- is aware about hygiene then this is the ideal course. Participants will be able to cook the following items. lems when not communicating face to face. This hands-on class includes daily hygiene, impor- 1. Spinach lasagna If your staff could read and write memos or tance of hand washing and preparation of fruits and 2. Chicken breast with mushroom sauce notes, things could be easier for you. We vegetables. We will teach them the proper way of 3. Pasta in tomato cream sauce present this reading and writing course that cleaning - tables, windows, kitchen floor and bath- 4. Cauliflower with caper sauce will enable your household staff to read room. We will also teach them how to take care of a 5. Eggplant salad notes/memos, write simple sentences, and refrigerator. We will discuss how illness is spread and take telephone messages. This will also help why the corner and behind the door is important to DATE: 26th February 2012 your staff to get employed after you leave. clean. We intend this course to help your staff to clean TIME: 1.00 pm to 5.00 pm This is a two months course, 5 days a week, the house properly. Two days course, 1p.m. to 5p.m. VENUE: Maharajgunj one hour a day. FEE: Rs. 8,000 VENUE: Maharajgunj FEE: Rs. 1,200

Maharajgunj, Kathmandu Phone: 442.6439/98510.07.900 ECS Services offers staff employment services (cooks, watchmen, [email protected] or gardeners, housemaids and drivers); courses for household [email protected] staff (cooking and health); Nepali language for expatriates and Of ce Hour: English language for household staff. We hope that these services 11:00am to 3:00pm (Monday through Friday) provided by ECS help make your life more comfortable.

Restaurant & Bars CHINESE CUISINE Potato Cush Bara with CAFÉ DE PATAN THE GHANGRI CAFÉ Peanut sauce –Rs 145 Patan Mangalbazar Pulchwok Lalitpur Tel: 5537599 NANGLO BAKERY CAFÉ JAPANESE AND KOREAN Tel: 5528703 BlueBird Food Court BAKERY CAFÉ NEW CUISINE C: Mo mo Chicken Rs 130 Margeritta Pizza Rs 165 Chicken Sumai Mo:Mo Tel: 4228833, BANESHWOR Chicken Burger Rs145 KOTO RESTAURANT Rs.70 Ext. no. 4476 Tel: 4488528 BAKERY CAFÉ BOUD- Grilled fish Durbar Marg Cordeu Blue Mutton Rs.150 Newari Samay Chicken sizzler Rs 250 DHA with rice Rs 250 Sakeyaki Rs. 290 With Chicken Rs.175 Chicken mo mo Rs 120 Nepali lunch set Rs 240 Taglatella at sungi Rs 190 CAFÉ DU TEMPLE Donburi Rs. 310 Nepali Thali Rs. 190 Club sandwich Rs 225 BAKERY CAFÉ Tempura Rs. 260 Bandel tareko / TINDHARA Patan Durbar Square With Buff Rs.150 BAKERY CAFÉ sandeko Rs 205 Fpaghetti alla Tel: 5527127 PULCHOCK bolognes Rs 190 FRENCH CUISINE Candles Restro Spaghetti Bolognese Rs.175 Tel: 5010110 BAKERY CAFÉ TEKU Masala dosa Rs 105 DELICES DE FRANCE Temple Special Chicken Lounge & Cube Buffet set lunch Rs 310 Tel: 4265987 Mutton Mo mo Rs 160 RESTAURANT Rs. 225 Kamaladi Chicken barbeque Rs 195 Thamel Nepali Style Grilled Tel: 4438017 Tel.4260326 Fish Rs. 250 Chicken steak – Rs.200 Chicken Sandeko Paneer tikka – Rs.150 ITALIAN RESTAURANT Salad: Rs 290/- Chicken sashlik – OLIVE GARDEN Salmon with cream & Rs.220 Wine Sauce: Rs 760/- Radisson Hotel, Lazimpat Lamb steak – Rs.275 Mediterranean Tel: 441818 Murg makhani – Rs.250 Platter: Rs 580 Italian Cuisine Gourmet Trout Rs. 800 COURTYARD CONTINENTAL CUISINE Dinner 6:30pm onwards RESTAURANT Kamaladi Tel: 4253056 Roasted Chicken Rs.195 Chicken Steak Rs.190 THE EVEREST HOTEL Mix Pizza Rs.220 New Baneshwor, Kathmandu, Tel: 01 4780100 DE’ ORANGE The Café- Lobby Level Mandarin Roof Top RESTAURANT & Coffee Shop Chinese Restaurant LOUNGE Executive Buffet Lunch: Crispy Fried salt & pepper Nrs 1100 Duck: Nrs 995 New Baneshwor Executive Buffet Dinner: Lobster in Mushroom & wine Tel: 478307 Nrs 1200 sauce: Nrs 2150 Open momo – Rs.100 Saturday Brunch: Nrs 1200 Multi Flavoured shredded Beckti fish – Rs.650 Nasi Goreng: Nrs 650 Chicken: Nrs 625 Chicken chausseur – Grilled Prawns: Nrs 1200 Tibetan Gyakok (Veg or Non Rs.180 Crumb Fried Stuffed Mush- Veg) Corn cheese fritters – rooms: Nrs 375 (Minimum order for 2 persons): Spicy corn – Rs.149 (Continental Gourmet ) Nrs 1400 Rs.195 KFC RESTAURANT Tofu with black bean BabarMahal Revisited Far Pavilion Roof Top Durbar Marg sauce – Rs.119 Tel: 4253337 JEANS LOUNGE Indian Restaurant Bugles and Tigers Roof Top Tel: 4226287 Cold buff – Rs.239 Frilled Salmon Kakori Kabab: Nrs 725 Gurkha Bar & BAR Chicken bucket – Rs.699 With Cumin Rs. 850 Chandi Chowk Tikki: Nrs Kama Kazi: Nrs 520 Basantapur – Rs.999 WALTER’S Sea Food 525 FlatLiner: Nrs 595 Tel: Gosht Ki Biryani: Nrs 725 Beer (Domestic): Nrs 475 Zinger beal – Rs.279 RESTAURANT AND Platter Rs. 950 4221324/4239256 Twister meal – Rs.269 BAR Creper A La Goat Applicable taxes extra Roasted chicken – Sundaes – Rs.69 – Rs.99 Cheese Rs. 550 Rs.250 Krushers – Rs.69 – Fish and chips – Rs.200 Rs.129 FIRE AND ICE TFC Kathi rolls – Rs.60 – HYATT REGENCY Pizzeria Radisson Hotel Rs.130 RICE & BOWL Thamel, Lazimpat, Tel: 4411818 Chicken tikka – Rs.170 RESTAURANT KATHMANDU Tel: 4250210 Congi Lamb Rs. 600 Taragaon, Boudha, Tel: 4491234 Schezuan chicken – Tripureswor Pizza’s Spaghetti Seasame Rs.280 Tel: 4251678 ROX RESTAURANT THE CAFE Ice Creams Chicken Rs 500 Hakka Prawn Rs.550 Melting Chocolate: Pepper Steak: Fillet Mignon Rs. 550 JINGLE RESTAU- Jambo Prawn Special NRs 750 NRs 800 THAI CUISINE Smoked Trout & Salmon Arabic Chicken Shishta- RANT & BAR sauce Rs.950 YING YANG CHEZ CAROLINE RES- Teku Road Cutlet: NRs 690 wouk: RESTAURANT TAURANT Prawn and Salmon Risotto: NRs 800 Tel: 4228078 Tian Rui Chinese Thamel, 4701510 Mediterranean and French NRs 1050 Japanese Pork Chop: Whole fried fish – Restaurant Prawn Tempura-Rs 595 food Skewers: NRs 1150-1450 NRs 800 Rs.555 Thapathali Chicken Satay- Rs 385 Baber Mahal Revisited Whole roasted chicken Tel: 4243078 Tel: 4263070 / 4264187 – Rs.855 Crispy fried chicken – THIRD EYE RESTAU- Salad Caroline Rs. 780 RANT Crispy potato – Rs.95 Rs.549 Pepper steak Rs. 785 Green momo – Rs.135 Thamel, 4260289 Bong bong chicken – Lamb chop Rs. 1295 Golden fried prawn – Wrapped Prawn- Rs 595 Rs.279 Rs.425

122 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np EATING OUT

Blind love shake – Rs.150 Chicken Pasta: Rs. 180 Blended pineapple/orange BOURBON ROOM Chicken Fajita: Rs. 160 – Rs.75 RESTRO BAR Sandwich (chicken/ ham/ Durbarmarg, JATRA salami/ tuna/vegetable/ Tel: 4441703 Thamel, Tel: 4700043 cheese) – Rs.100 – Rs.140 Nachos Grande Rs. 400 Sukuti Ko Achar Rs. 110 Grilled Pork Chops Rs. 400 Sandwich Steak & D SQUARE CAFÉ & RES- Hot and Spicy Pizza Rs. 320 Cheese Rs. 360 TAURANT Tenderloin Steak Rs. 220 Patan Durbar Square CINNAMON GRILL Tel: 5545056 LOUNGE K-TOO BEER Prawn chili – Rs.350 Jhamshikhel Thamel, Newari set – Rs.210 Tel: 5521339 Tel No:4250440 Rainbow trout – Rs.425 Chicken Rag Out Rs. 350 Steaks365-955, Mexican Thai chicken – Rs.170 Grilled Pork Chop Rs. 425 Chicken Fagita 440, Grilled Chicken Parmesan Apple Momo 220 DELICATESSEN CAFÉ Rs. 380 Durbar Marg KILROYS OF KATH- Tel: 4221331 DEGGA RESTO LOUNGE MANDU Ham with cheese burger – Kumaripati, 5008679 Thapathali Rs.220 Mutton Fokso Tareko-Rs 90 Tel No:4250440 Chicken sizzler – Rs.430 Chicken Egg Bara- Rs 110 Garlic + Ginger Sauteed Chicken Hawaiian – Rs.305 Prawns SOALTEE CROWNE PLAZA CAFE BROWN SUGAR Chicken wings – Rs.280 Tahachal, Kathmandu, Nepal Jhamsikhel (Opposite British Combo meal (king size) – MANNY’S EATERY AND School) Pizzas Rs.395 Red label Rs. 450 per peg Rs.390 TAPAS BAR INDIAN Tel: 5543003 Kakori Chocolate surprise Rs.395 Beer Rs. 350 Jawalakhel Nepali authenitic thali Tel: 4273999 Extn: 6555 Black Label DHOKAIMA CAFE Tel: 5536919 CAFÉ Jogi bhat delight Kakori Seekh Rs. 750 Rs. 1000 per peg Patan Dhoka Fried calamai with basil Garden terrace Raan E Awadh Rs. 1575 Tel: 4273999 Ext. 6152 CHINESE 5522113 aioli Rs 399 Doodhiya Paneer Rs. 575 CAFEREENA Prawn and Salmon China Garden Grilled Australian Steak Spicy buffalo wings Rs 399 Lehsoni Methi Durbar Marg Fantasia Rs.1295 Tel: 4273999 Ext. 6159 Rs.1099 Chilgoza Rs. 775 Tel: 4231313 Chicken Chutney Corn Cream Rs. 400 Grilled Shilake Mushroom MOKSH LIVE RESTAU- Som tom thai- 175 ITALIAN Roll Rs. 550 Gin Chicken Rs. 575 Rs. 359 RANT & BAR Alfresco Grilled Churrasco Steak Chicken Lung Fung Soup Kambo Chee- 365 Jhamsikhel Rs. 695 Rs. 275 Tel: 4273999 Ext. 6123 Flavors Café & Restau- Tel: 5528362 Norwegian Salmon Bhujure Rs. 595 Soya Wine Chilli Pomfret EATEMPUS THE EATING rant Duck Breast Rs 650 Rs. 1195 Rs. 1050 BAR LOUNGE AND BAR Australian Lamb Cutlet Sapo Chicken Rs. 600 Bouddha Rainbow Trout Rs 550 Rodi Bar Anamnagar, 4221037 Rs.1195 Honey Pork Ribs Rs. 575 Tel: 4498748 All kinds of BBQ- Indian Tel: 4273999 Ext. 6224 Pizza – Rs.300 – Rs.425 NAMOBUDDHA RES- Continental and Nepali Pastries – Rs.25 – Rs.90 TAURANT ET Hot Wings and Mo: Mo Organic coffee – Rs.50 – Kavre, 9851106802 BAITHAK Rs.75 FUNKY BUDDHA RES- shaitan served with garden OR2K Babar Mahal Revisited Bu Keba The Organic Burger – Rs.200 – Rs.340 TAURANT & BAR fresh vegetables and deep Thamel BabarMahal Village Thamel fried kalamari – Rs 900 Tel: 4422097 Tel: 4267346 Bakhundole, Lalitpur Paradise Restaurant & Tel: 47000919 PICASSO “ARTISTE DE Mint Lemonade Rs. 70 Feast Of Rana Maharaja 5524368 Café Funky special local platter LA CUISINE” Stuffed Vegetable Normal Menu Rs. 1040 Buck wheat Pan Cake0- Bouddha Stupa Rs. 395 Combination Rs. 290 Royal Menu Rs. 1430 Rs 280 Tel: 016209046 Padthi- Rs. 225 to 350 Jawalakhel, 5009076 OR2K Combo Delux Menu Rs. 1595 Mediterrain Platter- Rs 480 Chicken buritto – Rs.300 BBQ Pork – Rs 650 Platter Rs. 310 Paradise salad – Rs.250 FOOD BAZAAR Seafood Platter - Rs 800 CAFÉ CHEENO Beautiful Antipasti UTSAV Chicken stuffed – Rs.350 Thamel, Kathmandu Platter Rs. 180 Durbarmarg Krishna Galli Paradise sandwich – Rs.290 Newari Khaja (Non veg)- THAMEL HOUSE RES- Tel: 4430170 Tel: 2210423 Mocktails – Rs.160 Rs.120, Beef Sizzler- Rs.200 TAURANT STATION BBQ Samay Baji Rs. 450 Paneer Skewer Rs.475 Chicken Tikka Kabab- Thamel Jhamsikhel 552208 Chicken Bara Rs. 260 Salmon Fillet Rs.875 (The) Almond Café Rs.250 Tel: 4410388 Shredded pork with spring Chicken Chatamari Rs. 310 Fish and Chips Rs. 475 Putalisadak Chicken Burger Rs. 250 Newari set Rs 850 onion-500 Tel: 4412492 GARDEN COURT RES- Home made Veg/Non-Veg Nepali set Rs 1000 Pork Chop-450 CAFÉ & BAKERY Almond Special – Rs.270 TAURANT AND BAR lasagna Rs. 275/350 Bara Special Rs 140 Burrito-350 aCube Cafe Mixed Pizza – Rs.280 Tukuchamarga Gairidhara, Spicy whole Fish-700 Sanepa, Lalitpur Chicken Sizzler – Rs.255 Kathmandu 4429207 THE CORNER BAR 9841218773 Café Dew Drops Almond Soup – Rs.160 Chicken Houro as one of the Radisson Hotel NEPALI AND Safallay- Rs 80 Bouddha Stupa speciality Lazimpat Tel: 4411818 NEWARI CUISINE Newari Khaja Set- Rs 80 Tel: 4499593 BAR AND LOUNGES Grilled chicken – Rs.400 RESTRO Chicken tandori- Rs 300 ABSOLUTE BAR HIMALAYAN CAFÉ Aaloo tama ko jhol – ZAIKA NEPALI CUISINE LOUNGE Hotel Narayani Complex, Boudha 6, Kathmandu Buzz Café & Bar Rs.125 Thamel Lazimpat Pulchowk Chicken Biryani Rs.330 Baluwatar Bandel ko maasu – Rs.350 Tel: 4700972 Tel: 4412193 Tel: 5521408 Cheese Pizza Rs.220 Tel: 4429903 Chara sandheko – Rs.200 Chicken Pizza Rs 270 Mix Bara: Rs.90 Bandel Tareko Rs. 300.00 Veg Sandwich Rs. 140 Buffalo wings – Rs.220 Boeuf stroganoff – Rs.400 Ham and cheese sanswich Mix Chatamari: Rs.90 Chicken Chowela Rs. 300.00 Mozzarella sticks – Rs.180 Rs120 Choyela : Rs.100 HIMALAYAN JAVA Momo – Rs.160 CUPPAS ATTIC BAR Thamel, Contact:4253956 BBQ wings – Rs.280 Putalisadak Tejbhawan, Lazimpat Mixed Pizza: Rs. 285 Quesadilla – Rs.230 Tel: 4412492 4442615 Mocha frappucino – Bacon Potato Roll- Rs 200 The details provided in the listings are Rs.170 Chicken Wings with Hot tentative and are subject to change Garlic Sauce Rs 350

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SPILLED INK Stories are a kind of thing, too... Text By DON MESSERSCHMIDT It is not just things that carry stories with them. Stories are a kind of thing, too. Stories and objects share something, a patina... Perhaps patina is a process of rubbing back so that the essential is revealed, the way that a striated stone tumbled in a river feels irreducible... (Edmund deWaal)

o uncover the patina of history from art objects, old stories and past lives is an engaging enter- prise for writers. Surely Nepal harborsT many great stories like the one here—stories that reveal tantalizing memories and essential characteristics of a family or community, stories that need to be researched and recorded now

before ‘progress’ and modernization Photos courtesy www.edmunddewaal.com irretrievably erase them, for when that happens we are all losers. I’ve been reading a lot of memoir lately, accounts of notable incidents in people’s lives. Some memoir is about people and some is about ‘things’. One that I recently fi nished is about one European family’s collection of fi ne old Japanese art objects called ‘netsuke’. It’s by Edmund deWaal and is written with and boxwood carvings, he wanted to his book deWaal successfully rubs away great passion and personal involvement: know how they had survived, who had the patina to reveal the essential story. The Hare with Amber Eyes: A Hidden In- touched and admired them, and who One of the exceptional parts of the heritance (2010). had protected them. He knew they had story is how the two centuries old col- The hare (rabbit) of the book’s title great value, for to connoisseurs netsuke lection was safely hidden while the Nazis is one of a priceless collection of 264 is considered on a par with rare Fabergé plundered Vienna’s Palais Ephrussi, then miniature netsuke sculptures from Japan glass and Meissen porcelain. smuggled out piece by piece by a devoted dating to the 17th-18th centuries. Ed- The Hare with Amber Eyes, however, is house maid who wore a billowing apron mund deWaal weaves an intriguing tale far more than a simple study in art his- with big pockets. All the more remark- of how they were acquired by an elite tory or beautiful carvings. And it’s more able is deWaal’s globe-trotting research to Russian-Jewish family called Ephrussi, than the story of deWaal’s zeal to un- recover his notable ancestors’ bountiful then handed down over the generations, cover a multi-generational biography. history. The result is a well-tuned memoir fi nally to the author himself as the great- Edmund deWaal is himself a noted with the netsuke as its focal point. great-grandson of the original collector. European ceramicist, and a talented I cannot help thinking at this point The Ephrussis were merchant bankers writer. His story-telling engages the that there must be roughly equivalent who migrated in the 18th century from reader, start to fi nish. Members of the stories hidden away in many Nepalese Odessa on the Black Sea to settle and Ephrussi family were noted for amass- family archives, homes and former pal- grow rich in Paris and Vienna. There they ing a fortune and living well. They had aces. Maybe not netsuke, but some other became the fi nancial equals to the more a fervor for reading and collecting the story or thing waiting to be uncovered well known Rothschilds, elite European best literature of their time. And they and rubbed clear to reveal the past, then bankers and businessmen with whom admired and accumulated great paintings brought to light in a good book! „ they socialized. and rare ‘objets d’art’, especially Japanese The Hare with Amber Eyes by Edmund deWaal Over several generations the Ephrus- netsuke, ‘Japonisme’. All of this is detailed (2010; New York: Picador). See also www.ed- sis built huge personal fortunes and in the memoir. And though the Ephrussi munddewaal.com/theharewithambereyes.html, gained great fame, all of which was lost family heritage was ultimately destroyed and www.edmunddewaal.com/hare_with_am- ber_eyes/hare_netsuke_gallery.html in the Second World War. in the 1940s by war and anti-Jewish Don Messerschmidt is a frequent contributor to When Edmund deWaal received sentiment, not all was lost. The netsuke ‘ECS Nepal’ magazine. He may be contacted at the collection of tiny Japanese ivory collection miraculously survived, and in [email protected].

128 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np AD INDEX AIRLINES Thai Air (4) Qatar Air (3)

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TOURS & TRAVELS Borderlands (107) 4700894 Nepal Social Treks (125) 4701070 Royal Mt. Travels (124) 4444378 HERITAGE TALE ECS Media Missing monuments Text By ANIL CHITRAKAR

epal is home to many beauti- pair of lions with a few stone steps leading up stroyed by the invading army from Delhi. It ful natural and man-made and then nowhere. It is a very strange piece was also badly damaged during the two great heritage sites that keep bring- of history that is just there in the middle of earthquakes of 1833 and 1934AD. Given the ing many visitors to this the big space. There is a book in the market fact that the city has done so well to conserve Ncountry. Today, due to the attention these called Voyage of Nepal fi rst published in its heritage, there is no reason not to recover monuments are getting and the availabil- 1886AD - Around the World New Travel this temple as well. One challenge that might ity of fi nancial resources, many are being Journal in which there is a photograph and have to be overcome is that the temple is lo- cared for and have been restored. These a sketch of the temple that should be behind cally known as the Lan Paungu Dega- which range from the monasteries in the high the two stone lions and the steps. It was a literally means the road-obstacle-temple. Himalaya, the old Malla period palaces of three storey pagoda temple and the trident There mustbe some reference in history Kathmandu valley and the Janaki temple at the top indicates that it was probably a when the temple was built to obstruct access in Janakpur in the terai. We sometimes Shiva temple (Hari Shanker) . It was a very to the main palace square. get so obsessed with the monuments we beautiful structure made of bricks and There is another theory that the see that we seem to forget the ones that carved wooden beams, struts and pillars. siblings in the other valley towns had existed in history but do not physically The question then comes to mind, why has the temple built in this odd location and exist today. As an example we all see the it not been recovered and restored, given the hence local people do not want it back. Dharahara that stands tall near Sundhara. fact that Bhaktapur seems to be doing really It will be good to know the real reason We seem to have forgotten that there was well in terms of generating revenuefrom as we restore the temple.As the country a second one that was destroyed in the tourism each day. What could be the reason and the constitutional assembly debate 1833AD earthquake. The one we still for the oversight? the pros and cons of a federal system, the have with us was shortened during resto- One obviousreasonis that like the rest of ordinary people are reminded of the rival- ration after the 1934AD earthquake. Nepal there have not been local elections ries’ that existed among the city states of Another such prominent monument that and hence there is no leadership that has a the valley that existed in the 18th century. is missing can be “found” in the Bhaktapur clear mandate to make a decision. Bhaktapur This rivalry is the principle reason why Durbar Square. If we walk to the east end of has seen its share of man-made and natural the valley could not defend itself against the Durbar Square, one will come across a disasters. In 1349 AD Bhaktapur was de- the invading Gorkhali army. „

130 J A N U A R Y 2012 www.ecs.com.np

JANUARY 2012 / Rs. 100 www.ecs.com.np ISSN 1729-2751 One voice / Fabric of society / A passage back in time / Vivaha Panchami / Onwards and upwards / Fabric of society A passage back in time Vivaha Panchami Onwards and upwards

JANUARY 2012

ISSN 1729-2751

www.ecs.com.np OneOne VoiceVoice For decades, the comedy duo of Madan Krishna Shrestha and Hari Bansa Acharya have entertained 9 771729 275000 and informed its loving Nepali audience. SUBSCRIBER COPY PACKETS OF TRADITION ART FOR THE PEOPLE NEWARI CRAFT REVISITED 125 40 Making Masala during Tihar 42 Artists are increasingly 106 A craft shop strives to revisit is an act that ties tradition to a taking art out of the gallery and promote traditional community. and to the public. Nepali craft.