201

RONALD CAMPBELL GUNN'S VISIT TO IN 1836

by Sophie C. Ducker

(with one text-figure, two plates and an appendix)

In 1836 R.C. Gunn sailed in the Sloop Rebecca from Launceston to Port Phillip, Bay and Port Fairy. He was on the way to his new residence at Circular Head, , but used the opportunity to look for grazing land on the mainland. He reports his observations during the cruise. The text is illustrated by newly available portraits of Gunn and his wife. Key Words: R.C. Gunn, Port Phillip, Western Port Bay, Port Fairy, botanical exploration.

In BANKS, M.R. et al. (Eds), 1991 (31:iii): ASPECTS OF TASMANIAN BOTANY-A TRIBUTE TO WINIFRED CURTIS. Roy. Soc. Tasm. : 201-212. https://doi.org/10.26749/rstpp.124.2.201

INTRODUCTION Correspondence with Gunn also influenced the Irish botanist, , to come to George It was early in the 19th century that the lower reaches Town in 1855 to collect seaweeds. The Mitchell Library of Port Phillip Bay were botanically explored for the in Sydney holds a rich collection of this correspondence first time. With Matthew Flinders came three "botanical with the Hookers and Harvey (see also Ducker 1988). gentlemen" as the Admiralty called them: Robert Brown Gunn's name is remembered in many Australian, (Mabberley 1985), Ferdinand Bauer (Norst 1989) and particularly Tasmanian, flowering plants and algae Peter Good (Edwards 1981). Through the diaries of (Buchanan 1988). Robert Brown, Peter Good and Flinders (Flinders 1814) In his Observations, Gunn records 100 genera found we have the first descriptions (1802) of the countryside in a parcel sent to him by two correspondents from near Port Phillip Heads. Ten months later, James Geelong. The 112 plants were collected in the neigh� Fleming, a convict but a knowledgeable gardener, bourhood of Geelong and the Bellarine Peninsula; Gunn assisted Grimes and Robbins to map the northern parts names a few species which are common to both the of the bay and to record trees and shrubs (Ducker & Geelong region and Tasmania. The heading of the list Perry 1985). In October of the same year (1803), reads: "Port Phillip Plants - received from Miss H. members of the aborted convict settlement at Sorrento Road.knight and Mr R. Burke. All marked thus and sent listed common names of plants seen at the Sorrento site to Hooker 1842." Harriet Roadknight (1817-55) was (Tuckey 1805) and in 1804 Robert Brown returnedfor born in England and married T.W. Vicary who, like his second short visit to the Sorrento settlement. From Robert Bartlett Burke (1815-89) was a squatter. At the Brown's manuscript journal (Willis & Skewes 1955), end of the paper, Gunn mentions his own earlier "short Willis (1955) extracted a botanical list of 96 species in visit to the south coast of New Holland, in March, 1835". 74 genera definitely known to have been collected by This reference to a visit to Port Phillip in 1835 has been Brown in the Port Phillip area. However, no botanical a puzzle perpetuated in literature (Bums & Skemp publications dating specifically from the early part of 1961, Maiden 1909, Willis, 1949, 1959, 1966), since the 19th century list plants fromPort Phillip. The first no manuscript referring to the visit had been sighted. published botanical account of the Port Phillip area The Mitchell Library, Sydney, holds a small note (1842) is Observations on the Flora of Geeloni, Port book (B 122) containing a manuscript with the heading Phillip by Ronald Campbell Gunn. This is evidently the diary of Ronald Campbell Gunn Gunn was manager of the estates of William who was Police Magistrate at Circular Head in February Effingham Lawrence, at Launceston and later, also that 1836, signed I. L. 8.5.34. The initials refer to Ida Leeson, of Lady Jane Franklin. By 1848, he had established his sometime Mitchell Librarian. The manuscript is written position as a resident botanist, knowledgeable in diverse partly in ink, partly in pencil; the writing varies and plant communities. He corresponded with and supplied entries are obviously not written continuously. A plants from those communities to Sir William Jackson transcript of the diary and the additional notes contained Hooker, Professor of Botany at Glasgow University, in the notebook follows; superior figures refer to later at Kew. He was also associated with Hooker's explanatory notes which followthe discussion. Imperial son, , in his visit to Tasmania measurements have been retained in the diary; one foot with the James Clark Ross expedition ( 1840---41), and = approx. 305 mm; one yard = 0.9 m; one fathom = the subsequent publication of the Flora Tasmaniae. approx. 1.8 m; one mile = approx 1.6 km. 202 S. C.Ducker

Spent the Evg. at Lieut. Friends4 who gave me a boat to go to Mr Laurence's farm with the articles before mentioned. - It is usual here to enumerate List of Passengers etc. etc. etc.

The Rebecca chartered for such time as might be required at £40 for 30 days is a Cutter of 29 tons, about 18 Months old built by Mr Plummer. - Mr Fraser the Owner sails in her. - A man named ShaVen,) is Master --- apparently a good sailor - and a crew of two Men making a total of four. Cabin Passengers Edwd Tobin, formerly Capt" of West India Man in the Demerara Trade, and now on half pay as Master in the Navy - apparently a pleasant companion. -

Charles Gray George6 MrS Lawrences oldest son - one whom I had before rambled with and found a pleasant companion - good tempered -- and evidently willingly influenced by the advice of one person older than himself --- a Mr Anderson & two men for Circular Head emerged from the hold in Spring Bay, but I saw little of them. -

Sunday Morning, 21 sl FebY at 5 O'Clock I was roused PLATE 1 out of bed at Mr Watsons by Charles Gray informing Ronald Campbell Gunn. Attributed to Thomas Bock me there was a fair wind. - I immediately posted to and dated c. 1848 by comparison with companion the wharf & with old Tobin agreed to sacrifice our portrait (pl.2) which is signed and dated. Pastel supply of Mutton & potatoes rather than lose the fair drawing, 363 310 mm, inside contemporary Huon x wind -- All Mr. Lawrences things were immediately Pine frame 488 x 440 mm. Dixson Galleries, State careful! y landed placed by me under Mr Wilson's care Library of NSW. ZDG471. to go up in CaptO Friends boat in an hour or two - and I desired the Captain to weigh anchor I would follow in THE DIARY a whale boat - after I sawall put in store safe. - I obtained a bag of rice, a bag of flour, & some coffee The sloop Rebecca sailed from Launceston on Friday from Captn Symers an old schoolfellow of mine being 19th FebY 1836 - about 3 P.M. and anchored at articles much wanted by Captn Tobin for sea stock, as Rosevears Point that tide. - he was afraid our supply was rather limited - as the probable prices would be very low I agreed upon my Next morning about 1/2 past 4 weighed anchor with a own risk & payment of half with Tobin. -- I also leading wind and reached a small inlet below Drumstick borrowed a saucepan from Mr Wilson - then threw Island -- where we were obliged again to anchor. - I them into a boat, & overtook my good ship before she have landed for an hour or two on Mr Reidsl farm but had proceeded two hundred yards. - saw nothing remarkable - The barque Isabella from England, Thistle for Portland At 3 P.M. the tide again turned but the wind was not Bay, Adelaide for Port Phillip, & Sarah Ann for Port favourable and we were obliged to beat all the way to Fairy all sailed from George Town the same time. - George Town. - When opposite Mr Crisp' farm - now the Lawrence's2 the wind blew very fresh-- and neither The wind veered round to the East and before we were Captn Tobin3 or myself considered it advisable to lay to outside of the Heads and we were obliged to make a to land some flour etc and receive on board some Meat tack out a long way beyond the Hebe Reef. -- Before & Potatoes for sea stock, but as there was a probability this time I had become seasick and was as miserable in of a continued unfavourable wind to send a boat from bed as possible --anticipating every moment to see my George Town with the flour & bring back the supplies. yesterday's dinner - and did not again get out of bed - Anchored at George Town about 7 P.M. until the vessel was entering the mouth of the River R.C. 1836 203

Mersey --The sea however rough and the motion of the We were tacking every now and then, and u~ed every exertion to get as far to windv/ard as -- The entrance to Port Sorrell was rather dlffieult, so that the Mersey was and we succeeded-

The Sarah Ann however that sailed al same time was only able to get as far as Sorrell vvhere she ilL - About 6 A.M, 1 got on deck & found Tobin heaving the lead on going ove, the bar of the Mersey­ and got as low as 6 feet. -- but the average was two fathoms When we passed over which was half tide _.­ We had kept rather too close to the East side. --- We ascended the River as far as we could but the wind suddenly fell & the ebb tide was so strong us that we were obliged to arlchor very close to the shore but in a safe place from any wind but a N.E. one. - About 9 O'Clock a strong wind from N.E. came on when we again weighed anchor & went up the River a quarter of a mile farther a point in smooth water where we again anchored for the Gunn (nee Jamieson), whom Gunn married in December 1839 as his the Rev. The Mersey is an excellent harbour for small vessels, & at spring tides the bar of the harbour has about 16 or 17 feet - The river of the tide is about 10 or 11 feet­ The width of the river inside the bar is about 200 but narrows considerably a little way up until it is little from all accounts of visitors to them, they hold out no more than 70 to 100 yds. - The water is salt & the tides inducements to settlers. rise for 7 Miles from the Mouth, and about 3 Miles up forms a large basin. -The greatest depth of water is on We passed Rocky Cape about 1/4 to 3P.M. and at 1/2 the west side until the stuble a low sand spit on the East past 5 were at Circular Head _ .. An excellent run for side about half a mile from the entrance, where the our small vessel I need not add that as usual. I was in deepest water is on the East side of the River with fine bed nearly all day - The view of Circular Head is sandy bottom.- The trees appear very large & the but does not present that appearance I was led forest dense the west side & almost equally so on the to expect from the view in Dr. Ross'es7 Almanak­ east side, but I had no opportunity of landing to examine The view of Circular Head in Mr. Bischoffs workS is the character of the Country... - There are no hidden also extremely incorrect --a rock in the foreground not dangers at the Mouth of the Mersey and should the existing. ~- There is a small wharf on the SE side of the Climate & soil enable proprietors on the banks of the bluff, on S=ircular Heild ~- where we brought lip and River to raise crops of anything, the harbour will be were moored in a few minutes, head and stem. -­ found most valuable for small craft. -I enjoyed a Immediately dressed and waited upon Mr. Reeves9 the hearty supper & sound sleep. - Agriculturist - finding both Mr. Curr10 & Dr. Hutchinson11 absem- I also called upon Mrs Curro - Monday 22nd FebY. at 5 O'Clock A.M. . T<'lbin got The agricultural Establishment & Mr Curr's House are up found a fine, southerly wind, & roused up the Captain about a mile from the landing Place and on another part & all hands to get under weigh - which did not occupy of the Peninsula-~ Highfield House is a beautiful many minutes the wind veered round to the Eastward Mansion & the grounds apparently well laid out, but so that we were enabled to sail along over a smooth sea not extensive. - I spent the evening & slept at Mr. with the wind nearly right aft - We passed within a Reeve as I had a great number of questions to ask mile or two of the prominent headlands, and had a velY relative to supplies of food, Prices etc etc I regret to fine view of the Country -- which appeared to be add lhat I found Mr CUff & Dr Hutchinson had quarreled densely wooded -~- A Number of Rivers empty and that matters were likely to be very unpleasant - themselves between the Mersey and Circular Head, but No very pleasant prospect for me. - 204 S'c. Ducker

Tuesday nd FebY - The wind had increased took our Guns & walked across the to the sea the night to a gale from the North Eao.;t it a abom 2 Miles. --The soil appears Vel} in places fortunate circumstance we were in a safe anchorage -­ covered with dense Teatree (Melaleuca N.7) and J as we sh(luld have been unable in our small vessel to believe abundance of fresh water. as is the case have got through the sea. -- I got a cart from Mr in the tca tree & scrubs_ -This island belongs Reeves, ,& before 10 A.M. had all my traps removed te the Y.D.L CY . into my :future residence. - It is situated, but in had repair -- the place however looks I found among the Plants Backhousiana very bleak andmiserable -- I however abundant down to the beach . - also a Banksia probably for my Natura! History pursuits.--- Ihe Australis of very dwarf habit seldom exceeding :\ feCI to 4. - A saltwater a good Capt" Tobin, Charles & myself had a dinner at boat harbour was covered with two species of Mr. Reeves (who has a wife and 11 children ---) and Salicomia_One of a habit similar to one on returned on board about 10 O'clock. - During the Middle Island harbour. The Birds seen were hawks, day I rambled over a large portion of the Peninsula Quail, & a great number of the Parrot and as far as the isthmus that connects it with the (P. terrestris) also two species of paral,eet, & the common mainland - green Parrot. - On the beach the bones of a finback whale!3 said by our Master to have measured upwards Mr. Anderson our fellow passenger had resided here for of 90 feet in length -- its Skeleton was not perfect, but some years is a young man of excellent education and from what. we saw it must have been very long - The information, and has been of very considerable service island did not meet my expectations, but I am told the to us in giving information upon various points useful. Northem end is the best. -- No Land that I saw would -- Mr. Fraser got a whaleboat ready. feed many sheep. - We went on board about 6 P.M. - it was then high water. - Wednesday 24 FebY 1836. The Gale continued from N.E. so as to render impossible to get out of the Bay or 26th Febf • Friday - Weighed Anchor about i/4 to 7 A.M. if at sea would have obliged to run into a Harbour­ waited for the tide-- so the Captn. said, -- I a drifting rain came on about I/o p. 10 O'Clock which was on deck at 5 & roused him up, but the devil himself led to the hope of a change of wir{d<-- towards afternoon could not get him to be active -- He is a very lazy man the rain & wind increased making our little Cabin not - & excessively nervous --- treating our little vessel of very comfortable - We all dined with the Storekeeper 27 tons with as much care near land as if she was a 74 & spent the Evg. with him -- he having taken pity on us . - He has a store & residence near the wharf.-- It was drizzling drain [sic 1 all night with the wind still I omitted to mention that on the 23d I removed all my from the N. to N.W. We however tacked up towards 3 baggage in a Cart to my future residence- it is a house Hummock Island, & in the Evg the wind coming from pleasantly situated - & pretty commodious. - a point or two further west enabled us to take our departure for King's Island which we expected to reach 25th Feby. Thursdy. -- The Wind lulled last night about next day about noon --The wind freshened during the 12 O'Clock and this moming the sea was considerably night, & squally with rain continued - Sick & in bed down-- with the Wind N. to N.E. we got our whaleboat as usual. --- on board all hands assisting - and got fairly under weigh about 27th FebY SatY looked in vain for Kings Island & at last saw land about 3 P.M. 011 our larboard bow -- One 1/2 p.'! A.M. The Wind was almost dead against but 1 knew it to be Kings Island & that we were in Seal Bay thought it preferable to do something - We beat up to -- Another thought we had sailed better, but after windward as far as possible and as the Wind continued sailing half an hour more, the Sky which had been hazy against us -- the Captain bore up under the South side all day cleared a little displaying a series of high cliffs, of Robbin Island about 3 P.M. & anchored -- this was convinced Mr, Tobin we had over run our distance contrary to Mr. Tobins opinion as he conceived we about 40 Miles - & that we were to the East of Cape could easily have reached three .!iummQ~k island in the Otw'lY!! No small consternation was felt. - The wind Evg. & anchored - was blowing strong from the S.West, but as we were quite lost -- we could not safely venture any further on I had been ill all day & requested the boat to be put in our course towards Portland Bay until we ascertained the water that I might land - to look about-We all where we were. - R.C Gunn's visit to Port lR36 205

Cape Otway bore from us WS,W distant 16 Miles & have been ashore on the flats which in that pan of Port the Gale from the S.W. continued, -- we bore off -­ are very extensive & run some miles off shore and hove to for the night . -- the Gale increased & -- The Colour of the Water is for washed our decks decks [sic] pretty clean - it also a small vesseL -" rained ail day - A severer gale I seldom remember, & I really had some small fear for our Craft ,- I was 'vile anchored about ]0 A.m, dreadfully ill & had not been out of bed since J left w:,lter to be marked Robin14 Island - We lay to during the night under a fathoms fine sand Arthurs Seat balance reefed mainsail, & close-reefed foresail. -- CJuns in order, landed in the \A/hale Boat where 28th FebY ] 836 Sunday The wind continued strong it looked like a water course, but found rna de a from the S.West with rain --Weather very dilty- we mistake -- Charles, my servant & remained on made sail for the land, but found we had drifted much shore to find water - Tobin & the boat returned on further to the Eastward than expected - & that we board to move the vessel a little nearer Arthur's Seat were N. E. of Cape Patton - It was too late & the should we find water. - weather too bad to allow our going into Port Phillip or Western Port, - We therefore stood off & on all night I felt myself very weak & ill not eaten or drank towards 10 P.M, the weather became more moderate, & anything for upwards of three rice the wind veered round to W.S.W. The Country appeared water twice but found the pains of vomiting so great as beautiful - & very lightly wooded as far as we could to induce me to starve in preference. -- see - two entrances very similar to those of fine rivers were passed about [blank] miles on the Port Phillip side I kept in from tbe beach in hoping of finding a run of of Cape Patton. water & walked parallel with the shore,- the soil was light sand or sandy loam, but covered in most parts up I longed much to explore them -- I have little doubt to my waist in the most beautiful grass I ever they are rivers from the appearance of the openings. - saw --, I never saw it so abundant & lieh in my life-­ & I was astonished that such poor soil could bear so 29th Febr. Mondy At daylight we ran in for Port Phillip fine a crop-The trees were a of Banksia about which was close to us, the Country on our larboard side the size of our VJ).L one but the leaves larger was very beautiful surrounding a large Bay which & not serrated -- species of Eucalyptus of no very evidently affords good shelter from S.-S.W. & W. winds large size, but luxuriant, a few green wattles, Cherry - No trees of any size appeared close to the beach - trees, (Exocarpos Cupressiforrnis) & one or two others or many larger ones inland - the country looked very such a Fabricia, Bursaria, etc. green - & beautiful. The entrance to POlt Phillip is rather intricate but Tobin took the Command & I must The undershrubs were not numerous the Daviesia say did matters nicely, -As we advanced farther the latifolia being the principal, - TheTrees did not appear Western country appeared covered with wood, but no bent over in any direction & being of a fine size & opinion of the character of the Country could be formed luxuriant to within 3 yards of the beach leads me think from on board ship - Mr Tobin was anxious to run up there is no prevailing wind likely to be troublesome, at to the SettlementlS but as I had no business there & it least off the Bay. was 30 miles off - & evidently contrary to his inclination induced him to bear up for Arthurs' Seati6, I walked along for nearly a mile keeping on & out from distant about 13 Miles where wood & water could be the beach with land equally poor & the grass in got - Our visit to Port Phillip is entirely contrary to my equally rich in some low places it became coarser but repeatedly expressed wish, & indeed order, but the in general good feeding ground & did not appear to winds were made an excuse for our visit -- have been burned for a few years, - In walking the beach J saw a light bunch of rushes close to the sand

After entering between the Heads we sailed direct for & about 5 yards off -« I went to them & found a deep Arthurs Seat being nearly due East of the Entrance -­ pond of fresh water --- it extended up for some yards & The Country a few miles in from pt Nepean along the contained abundance of water -- had not rushes which Bay looked very beautiful, the grass very green, & in I knew usually grow in or near water, attracted my some places studded with She Oaks & Honeysuckles attention, a person walking along the sand would not like a Gentlemans Lawn. We kept the lead going on have seen it,--, Tbe bed of a small creek meandered running up to our anchorage & we commenced in time inland for a considerable distance from the pond at the as had we delayed many minutes longer we should beach filled with Calystegia sepium, & Lythrum salicaria 206 S.CDucker in full flower -- they are both marsh plants, & usually 3rd March - landed II am as the vessel attempted to grow in or ,cry ncar water, & although the bed of the beat to the Eastern passage between Port Phillip & creek was dry I have little doubt water was one or two Main Water - two places - Mutton birds ~-Sand feet bela w the surface -The pond filled with high Hills -.- Soil at old Huts - Tobin channels. rushes near the beach is in my opinion a spring, & the ~- Typha-Grass poor on Sand Hills.·--.QQg maLk~ ..-- water good.- 4th Mar 10 Am. landed at Mr Griffith Barker's20 Estle An immense number of native huts & bivouacs were -- Natives ------Soil & Grass good 11ats--- Bass about in all directions, & fires in abundance with River - dined - fresh water 5 to 8 miles up the mussles, Cockles & oyster shells in heaps, _. a track of windings of River .- j 1/) miles in a direct line -­ natives to tile pond was also plain together with the Splendid Country both si(fes Bell Bird --- banks track of a dog & one or two natives along the beach --­ 20 f' high - river 5S lines wide or as wide as boat & The track not many hours made but the native track 2 oars --.... abt 4 miles from land to Kennedy's two or three days. - I made a fire on the beach by Cove, .-good land also at Point between Basses River setting fire to a brush wigwam, as signal of having & Kennedys Cove - Sheep of Swanston21 -­ found water, when I had the satisfaction of seeing our Salicomia ~- tea tree - ducks & swans - channel of frigate anchor abreast of us & Tobin shortly after landed. River _. We dined upon Aberdeen fresh salmon18 , biscuit and wine - indulging also temporarily in water - I enjoyed Bivouac-- Margttlct5 [sic] Small island at 9am - fire it much having my unfortunate gun-room empty. After - supper etc etc very small dinner we all walked northward towards Arthur's Seat & saw a continuation of good feeding land but no 5 Mar Sat, .. up at 1/2 p 6 landed at YeHow Point - water- dead sheep- good land visited old Settlement22 , Houses, flagstaff etc. boat met us at Water.. Brick Hole Charles & I walked direct inland from the Watering ----good water .. -. describe locality -- opinion plenty of Place & fOllnd the land to improve in quality but water -- land told is good to River & very fine higher evidently under water in winter forming long lagoons. up -- dined on as afraid to stick on The size of each not more than 10 to 20 acres ..~ the Hats -- intermediate spaces covered with fine Kangaroo grass - I was afraid to ramble much further inland by Pelicans, Swans, ducks, etc. French Island much burnt ourselves as there was good cover for the aborigines ~-~ - Margarets Island & pulled up vesse]- arrived The flats were covered with a species of Senecio in there at 1/2 p 5 PM vessel been on back getting her flower & in my opinion indication of good soil. _. If bottom looked at & pitched as she made a great deal of the country continued of the same character further water- back I think few places possess greater inducements to settle, _. always excepting the Natives & dogs ..- Fresh water in two holes on point at careenage - lots Pigeons were exceedingly numerous --- as also various of sharks -- size -~ enormous, -- Blacks troublesome species of Parrot & Paraquett, Quail not very abundant Swells not numerous. but sufficiently so. 6 Mar. SundY Started 10 am to visit Churchhilllsland23 fishing for Rays. - very woody with tea tree lots of Rays --- kilied 47 -- retd on board & got under weigh c. 1/4 P 2 PM - Westernport 2nd March 1836 becalmed at the mouth of the Port where there was an extraordinary ripple .- between the tides _ .. wind abl FJ agstafP9 - S wamp ~.~ shallow at low water --Sharks N.E in the Evg until we got near Cape Otway -- - Swans 7 Mar Mond becalmed early in the morning & Plants -- Acacia, Aster & Ozothanmus, Cassytha --­ continued most of the day, Abt 12 the wind came round Salicomia ~- [indecipherable] & peculiar to the south west in our teeth & we ran in for the shore Pomaderris- plain of good soil but miserable & anchored in a small roadstead near Cape Patton -­ vegetation -- Xanthorrhae sheltered from SWest & South winds-- ab! 3 P.M. landed - with our Guns found a nice stream of water Up 8 or 9 until Spm. of good size named it Tobin River --- Ducks abundant & tame - Musk tree, Blue Gum, Tares Ferns, Fern tree - peculiar Grass running 12 ft up shrubs of various R.C. C;'unn'.'i to Port Phillip, 1836 207

kinds ~ other plants put me much in the Isles ~ .. slept as mind of V.D.L ~.~ Shot 2 Sand red orbits ... ~. fcd next morning. legs ..~ & Base of Bill red ... ~. black went on board at 6 P.M. found a nmnber of star fish &. some 11 Mar. FridY Wenl on hoard & gO! under weigh, good chilons on .rocks. from the North rendered it so Coast & then Eastward that I 8 March TuesY Got under Aryl forsook .... unless wind changed Wind abt W.S.W. _. fell calm .- Sand Hills for 14 miles from P. - then in the afternoon we were not 5 miles ii'om where we Sandstone cliffs~~ strata horizontal - 5 small islands anchored ._. about 3 PM a bree2.e spmng up from about apparent iilOllth of River ~- but break across E. S. E. & we jogged on our course mouth. -- sailed froml mile to miles from shore Otway bore N. 5 or 6 miles Old Shoten our &. one two or three small but steered west until 1 AM of the 9th to avoid some none promising to be a river ~ & most with sand right imaginary reef some person had told him of ~ ..Breeze across. -- good ~ going about 5 miles an hour. Sea rough there being a heavy S. West swelL ~- 12 Mar. Sat. In the Course of the night we sailed along abt 20 Miles of Coast that we had examined on 9 March WedYAbout 4 AM altered the vessels course the trip down-·· & commenced on this morning a few to N.W. to come nearer the land~~ about 6 AM it was miles W of where we began going westward - Capt abt 3 to 4 miles distant. - saw some islands & peculiar Tobin at the Mast Head with a spy Glass ~ A large hills like the Mouth of a River .. - of which Tobin took opening abt 40 miles from Port Fairy seen with an a sketch bore in as close as we could but dare not expan&e of water inside _. but we stood close in & venture too near _... a sea running ~ the Coast found a bar &. reef to extend completely across .... - was precipitous but not high ..... apparently sand stone ,ailed very close & spared no pains - Sunset ---land behind must have been low as we could not see within abt 6 miles of Cape Otway - from which we any portion of it .. ~. took our departure for Launceston so far foiled in our attempts _. wind was from the N.B. &. had continued Anchored at Port Fairy at 1 Pl\;l having mn abt 80 miles abt that for the last 2 days. - in 16 hours 12 Mar. SundY Steered from SSE to SE by S. - being Port Fairy is a good roadstead from all winds but East as close as She would lie to the wind which occasionally & S.E. it is found of the N.R. island called Julia veered a point or two·- inade Kings Island ~. It & Percys _. 5 islands in all· ..fresh water River continued Cape Otway in sight all day - Calm all night·­ further on. wanted to go to new grass - Tobin & Port Phillip -

9th Mar continued .. - Whalers 8 men .-huts _.. flagstDif 14 Mar MondY - wind continued from the East & we - island good .- potatoes - purple t10w s Lotus, made very little progress.tacking backwards &. forwards Correa, Lavatera, Kangaroo, Grass -Shells - myself much tossed ab! & very ilL -- very weak indeed more so than I have been for years Had some soup abt 5PM & felt better, bivouaked [sic] 15th Mar. TuesYKilig Island in 3ight a:stem l sic). - Wind in an unfinished Hut24 good fire _. slept sound ~~ still E .~. sighted the Hunters blew very fresh &. ShoUen native fires numerous not troublesome .--- heavy sea in wanted to run in ~ abt 9 to lOAm. saw Circular Head Bay, Hatches battened down. Copy Sketch of Harbour ~- & the Wind coming northerly were unable to weather - beautiful Turnips - Spring of water...... - it .~. Weather very dirty squalls & rain & heavy sea­ If we had carried on to Geo Town we should have been 10 Mar. Thursday·.. ··· rose at our Bivouac abl 7 .. -- wind obliged to heave to all night prefered going into still strong from East - prepared to go inland exploring. Circular Head where I anchored abt 1/2 p 12. -Invitd - Steered abt North & went abt 4 miles - ..("'rass good by Mf Curl' - &. Horses sent down. _. Tobin on board . [indecipherable] Kangaroos .. Soil sandy with .. - Rode out with Mr Curl' round fields. ~ dined 6 PM sandstones abundant .~. Waler---Iagoons - inlet & --excellent~~ felt ill _. & went to bed 120clock -' natives-· Swans & Pelicans··- Nat' Huts Character-­ differences great between CUff &. Hutchinson - Birds --- Portland Bay 25 to 30 miles-· better than Port Fairy· ... retd abt 3Pm to Station ~ Tobin very tired 16 Mar.~- Wed. visited my future residence with .- Country very low .- Wind still at N. 16 miles -~ Mr Curr~ differences with Govt ~ many .- seen Dr. Hutchinson etc. etc. etc. Shotten & one of sailors 208 s.c. Ducker

QKIt~G I ~INOERS I -- 40"S 4()O Seal Bay \J ~ Thr •• Hummock I Hu"ter I ~ Robbin, I 9 C::> Circular· Head '-- Hebef~ ~.George Town ~r0rt ,rell " LAUNCESTON 100 zoo"., "" \ ~------.~!===~ VAN [JIEMEN'S LAND A

o 10 20 30 40 km ~==~~! ____~I====dd

B I1YE

FiG. J --. (A) Bass Strait; and (B) Port Phillip Bay and Western Port area, R.C CUlIIl'S visit to Port 1836 209 broached my wine & drunk & today, could Rehecca sailed, and it. is apparent that he 'Nas well not get under weigh this Evening -- so that obliged to acquainted with landholders on the banks of Tamar postpone until tomorrow while sailing up to Town. Furthermorc, in the abridged letters of Gunn to WJ. Hooker, 17 Mar. ThursdY reed some wool on board from VOL CY_ Bums & (1961), Gurm writes of his move to Circular Head on 5 1836 and of his new address there, while on 5 1836, in a ADDITIONAL NOTES IN THE letter, he of his initial at Circuiar INTERVENJt~G PAGES OF THE DIARY Head_ In this Gunn, in Rehecca, records his first visit to his future residence Left Circular Head 25/2/36 at 1/2 p 7 Wind N to NW. and leaving his -Anchored at Robbin Island 3 PM. - There have been some to the year of Gunn's visit to Port from the Left Robbin Island 26/2/36 at 1/4 to 7 Wind N to NW. - diary it is apparent that it is written in 1836, I believe the difficulty arose through Gunn's 1842 paper, where Anchored at Port Phillip at 10 Am 29/2/36 Monday-­ he himself quotes the year 1835 for his Arthurs Seat bearing E.NE from 3 to 4 Miles in 4 earlier visit. fathoms, fine sand. - landed at J 1 Oclock- From the document it is apparent that Gunn was principally interested in good grazing land. Balaam 1 Mar. 1836 (!965) states that Gann himself chartered the Rebecca with a view to squatting on the mainland. Gunn, indeed, Weighed Anchor from Port Phillip at 6 Am. Wind commented on the grazing potential of every newly N.N.E. passed the Head at 9 AM feil calm - about 10. discovered tract of land but there is only indirect abt 12 the wind veered round to S.E. & looked very evidence that he himself had chartered the vessel. in dirty about 3Pm we were obliged to alter our course & that he referred to "my and bought the go to Western Port where we anchored abt I AM. provisions. There were other passengers on board and it may have been a joint venture. There is, however, no large white Gull -- shot at Circular Head 24 FebY . doubt that Gunn was very knowledgeable about animals and soils. He had only recently, with Backhouse, Iris white-legs yellow, -- Bill yellow ( orange) with compiled the first extensive list of Van Diemens Land deep-red shade at tip - Orbits orange & carumulated plants (Backhouse & Gunn \835). His descriptions of l?J slightly . the park-like landscape of the heads of Port Phillip and of the cliffs of Port and his appreciation of their Small white Gull - Cir Head 24/2/36 beauty are most interesting. The other point of interest in the manuscript is the Iris white- Orbit red --- fact that the visitors from Tasmania had so much information about the Port Phillip and Western Port Bill coral red - legs - red districts. The new settlement at Port Phillip, Melboume, was only in its infancy, not quite a year old_ Gunn was Shag -- shot at Robbin Island 25/2/36 well informed and had seen maps, and must have carried copies of all the relevant and available maps of these Iris - whitish brown, with a circle of sea green between areas, The dissemination of knowledge was rapid and it & pupil - Orbits --- brown - Bill blackish brown efficient. - legs black --- This paper presents the entire document from the notebook, even the fragments found in the middle section Parrot blue & yellow Iris scarlet --- ofthc diary. The people are identified as far as in the notes; plants and animals are listed in the appendix. Small Bird Iris brown

NOTES DISCUSSION (I) Reed, Henry (1806--80)., landowner and shipowner, The document transcribed here is clearly the diary of lived at that time at Launceston (Australian Ronald Campbell Gunn_ At the time of the joumey Dictionary oj"Biography (ADB) 2). described, he was living at Launceston, whence the (2) (a) Lawrence, William EffingharYl (17811841), 210 S;.c. Ducker

lando'Vner; lived at I-.,'ornlosa near Launcestort rrlUscuirlS L.; the latter (ADB 2). (0) Lawrence, Robert William (1807 .. descrihed by Gunn and 33), eldest natural son of William E., botanist, in Ba~,s Strait (information arrived in Tasmania in 1825; is said to have been Mark NOnTlan). friendly with W.J. Hooker, whom he introduced 10 14) Robbins Island. Gunn, who then became interested in I , R.W. Lawrence married Ann niece of the I Arthur's Seat named Licut J. in 1802. surveyor John Helder Wedge information J7) Flinders' map of 1814 shows fresh water on the Jean Uhl). foreshore near Arlbur\ seat. (3) Tobin,Captain, called Edward (18) /\Lberdeen fresh salrnon refers rnos! to the to the Navy List (Gt Britain) Edward'Ibbin received Australian Salmon Arripis rrutta Bloch & Seni.mity as a Lieutenant 11 ISDO, Master of Schneider which has a similar flesh. the Royal Navy 24 December 1824; he is listed (19) In November 1826, Wetherall erected a Master until 1851 and for the years 1852--57 as intended settlement, later known a halfpay Master. as Corinella (Hist. Rec.liust., Ser.In, Vol. 5). (4) Friend, Matthew Curling (1792-187 (20) Griffith Barker; so far unable to trace. at Launceston, later at George Town; he installed (21) Captain Charles Swanston in the barque Norval, a line of semaphore from George Town to with I DOO sheep on board, took shelter in Western Launceston; Anglican and active in building the Port Bay in January 1836. Most of the sheep were church and rectory at George Town. lost (Hist. Rec. AuSi., Ser. III , Vol. 5). (5) ShoHen (Syme 1984). (22) Settlement at Corine!!a was set up jointly by (6) Charles Gray George, oldest son of Mrs WE Captain Samuel Wright of the third regiment, Lawrence from her first marriage; she was widowed when he arrived in the brig Dragon, and by when she married Lawrence in 1826. Captain F.A.Wetherall in H.M. Sloop Fly (7) Dr Ross's Alrnanack (1832) shows a picture of (Rosenman 1987). Circular Head; in the distance on the hill is (23) Churchhill Island, discovered in 1801, was named Highfield the residence of Edward Curf and on the and cleared for the first Victorian garden by the of the Head is Beach where Dr naval officer James Grant (1772~1833) on the Hutchinson resided. Lady Nelson. (8) Bischoff (1832) also contains a picture of Circular (24) In 1836 the whaling industry in Portland Bay was Head. well established, especially Port Fairy. This was (9) Reeve, the Agriculturist. Ihave been unable to find the first settlement of the Port Phillip District, set any more information about him. up mainly by Edward Henty and William Dutton. (10) Edward Curr( 1789-1850), the first representative By then both had built houses and the settlers were and manager of the Van Diemens Land Company. supplied with vegetables and other garden produce On arriving from England, he lived with his from the locality (Powling 1980). family in a small cottage called Highfield Cottage at Circular Head until, in 1835, the mansion Highfield House was built. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS (11) Dr J.H. Hutchinson was sent out from England by the Van Diemens Land Company in response to I gratefully acknowledge the help of Dr T.M, Perry in Curf'S urgent appeal to the directors for a medical providing much background information and for man and one better able to keep the company's compiling the maps which were drawn by Chandra books. He was a good doctor and bookkeeper and Sagasuriya. Dr P. Short identified as far as possible the acted as secretary when CUff was ill. In 1836 he plant names used by Gunn in the diary. The Librarians, left take up practice in Hobart. He was Paul Brunton of the Mitchell Library, and Jock Murphy followed by Dr Milligan from Engiand, with whom of the Baillieu Library, were most helpful. Useful Gunn had much association. discllssions were had with Miss Helen I. Aston, Mrs (12) Gunn is mistaken; according to the map of Me stan Jean Uhl, Mr Mal'k Norman and Mr N.1.B. Plomley. I (1952), Three Hummock Island did not form part owe thanks fbr answering queries to both Paul de Serville of the Van Diemens Land Company, and Alex Buchanan. (13) Most likely Gunn is referring to the Fin Whale Baiaenoptera L., which has a similar appearance of the skeleton to that of the Blue .C. Gurm.'s visit to Pori 1836 211

REFERENCES MAlJ)EN, 1.1'1." 1909: Records of Tasma.'lian Botanists. Pap. Proc. R. Soc.Tastn. 1909: 9--29. AUSTRALIAN DiCTIONARY OF BIOG1I.APIlY, Vol. 2, 1967. Melbol1me Mr,STON, A. L., 1952: THE VAN DlEMEN'S LAND University Press, Melbourne. COMPAlvY 1825-1842. Museum Committee, BACKHOUSE, J. & GUNN, R. c., 1835. Index piantaruill ..• of Lmnceston. Van Diemen'g l..and. In Ross, l (Ed): ROSS'S NAVY I.JST, GREAT BRITAIN, lSf'J9-18t1J: A UST01?THEFLAG HOBART TOWN ALMANACK AND VAlv OFHCERS OF lIlS MAJESlY'S FLEET. M. & s. DIEMFN'SLANDANNUAL. Hobart Town: 61-1 14. Hmoke, London. BALAAM, V. E., 1965: Ronald Campbell Gmm. Vicl. Nal. 82: NOR:n, 1989: FERDINAND 8AUER, THE 90-91. NATURAL HiSTORY DRAWINGS. BISCHOFF, J., 1832: SKF:rCll OF THE HiSTORY OF VfVV LCl,ruan Pulbll,;hir,g Mclboume. DIEMFN'S LAND. John Richardson, I..om:!')!:!. PO'fllJ-NG, J. W., 1980: THE FIRST FIFTY BLAIUlRS, M., DAVIES, S. 1. 1. F. & REru.Y, P. N., 1985: THE YEARS, 1837·-87. Heinemann, Melbourne. ATLAS OF AUSTRALfAN BIRDS. Melbourne ROSENMAN, H. (Ed.& TI"41181.), 1987: TVlO VOYAGES TO THE University Press, Melbourne. SOlITH SEA'} by lS.C Dumont D'Urville, Vol. 1. BUCHANAN, A.M., 1990 (shown as 1988 on p.201): Ronald Melbourne University Press, Melboume. Campbell Gunn (1808-1881). In Short, P.S. (Ed.): Ross, 1, 1832: HOBART TOWN ALMANACK. J. James, HISTORY OF SYSTEMATIC BOTANY IN Hobart Town. AUSTRALASIA. Australian Systematic Botany Snm, M. A., 1984: SHIPPING ARRIVALS AND Society, Melbourne. DEPARTURES, VIC1'ORIAN PORTS VOL. 1,1798- BURNS, T. E. & SKEMP, 1. R., 1961: VAN DIEMEN'S LAND 1845. Roebuck Society Publication No. 32, CORRESPONDF.NTS. Queen Museum, Melbourne. Launceston. TUCKEY, 1805: AN ACCOUNT OF A VOYAGElNTHE DUCKER, S.C., 1988: THE CONTENTED BOTANIST. 1802-3-4. Longman, Hurst, Rees & Orme, LEITERS OF W H. HARVEY ABOlJ7 AUSTRAl.JA London. AND THE PACIFIC. Melbourne University Press, WlUlS, HI., 1949: Botapical Pioneers in Victoria, 1. Vict.Nat. Melbourne: 413 pp. 66: 85-86. DUCKER, S. C. & PERRY, T. M., 1985: James Fleming: thefirst Wn.lls, I.H., 1955: Robert Brown's collectings in Victoria. gardener on the River Yarra, Victoria Arch. Nat. Muelleria 1: 51-54. Hisl: 13: 123--140. W1lll1l, IH., 1959: Botanical science in Victoria 100 years EDWARDS, P. 1, 1981: The Journal of Peter Good. Bull. Brit. fmc. R. Soc.Vic/. 73: 41-45. MilS. (Nat. HLfl.) Hist. Su. 9 (complete). WllilS, 1966: Vegetation. In PORT PHIlliP SURVEY FUNDERS,M., 1814: VOYAGE TO TERRA AUSTRALlS. G. and 1957-1963. Mem. nat. Mus. Viet. 27: 119-132. W. Nicol, l..ondon: 2 voh with atlas. Wllll~, J.H. & SKEWES, c.l., 1955: Robert Brown's Bass Strait GUNN, R. c., 1842: Observations on the Flora of Geelong, Journal of AprillMay 1802. Mu£lleria 1: 46··50. Port Phillip. Tasm. J. MI. ScL Statist. etc. 1: 203- (accepted 2 February 1990) 207. 1l1~T0R1CIll_ REcoRDS OF AUSTlW.JA, 1922: Series ill, Vol. 5. S.C. Ducker MAsSERUlY, D. 1, 1985: JUPITER BOTANlCUS, ROBERT School of Botany, University of Melbourne, Palkville, BROWN OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 1. Cramer, Victoria, Australia 3052. Braunschweig. 212 S.C. Ducker

APPENDIX

Plants and Birds Mentioned in the Text

PLANTS

Acacia Aster Member of the Asteraceae, Gunn is probably referring to a species of Olearia. Banksia Australis Banksia marginata Cav. or B. inf.om·ilnli,., L.f. Banksia Bursaria Bursaria spinosa Cav. Calystegia sepium Calystegia sepium (L.) R.Bf. Cassytha Correa Backhousiana Correa backhousiana Hook. Correa Daviesia latifolia Daviesa latito/ia R.Br. Eucalyptus Exocarpos Cupressiformis Exocarpos cupressiformis Labil!. Fabricia Gaertn. Leptospermum Forst. & Forst.f. Gunn was probably referring to L. laevigatum (J.Gaertn.) F. MueH. Lavatera L presumably refers to L. pleheia Sims var. tamentosa Hook.f. Lotus L. presumably is a reference to L. australis Andr. Lythrum salicaria Lythrum sa/icaria L. Ozothamnus now a subgenus of Helichrysum Mill. Pomaderris Salicomia Sarcocarnia A. J. Scott Senecio Typha Xanthorrhae

BIRDS

The birds mentioned in the text have been tentatively identified as far as possible and checked for localities in Blakers et al. (1985).

Bellbird [Bell Miner] Manorina melanophrys (Latham) Ground Parrot (P. [Psitaccus J terrestris) Pezoporus wal!icus (Kerr) large white Gull [Pacific Gull] Larus paciticus Latham Mutton Bird [Short-tailed ShearwaterJ Puffinus tenuirostris (Temminck) Pelican [Australian Pelican J Pelecanus conspicillatus Temminck. Sand piper probably the Hooded Plover or another Sandpiper. Shag would be classed as a ComlOrant today_ small white Gull [Silver Gull] Larus novaehollandiae Stephens Swan [Black Swan] Cygnus atra/us (Latham)