INDEX

Quy Nhon, 264–265 Angkor National Museum AARP, 40 Sapa, 136–138 (Siem Reap), 432 Abercrombie & Kent, 46, 375 Son La, 146 Angkor Thom (), Absolute Asia, 46 Vinh, 180–181 425 Academic trips and language Vung Tau, 337, 339–340 Angkor Thom Gates (Cambo- classes, 43 A Dong Photo Company dia), 425 Access-Able Travel Source, 38 (), 122 Angkor Village (Cambodia), Accessible Journeys, 38 Adventure and wellness 435 Accommodations, 49–51 trips, 43–45 Angkor Wat (Cambodia), 368, Ba Be Lake and Cho Ra AIDS, 31, 378 405–406, 424–429 Town, 153 Air quality, 32 restaurants, 421–422 Bach Ma National Park, 203 Air travel shopping, 432–434 best, 4–6 Buon Ma Thuot, 250 Angkor What? (Siem Reap), Buon Ma Thuot, 251–252 Cambodia, 378–379, 384 436 Cambodia, 380–381 Siem Reap, 408 Annam (Ho Chi Minh City), Battambang, 438–439 Dalat, 236 331 Kampot and Kep, 400 Danang, 206 Ann Tours, 68, 297, 349 Phnom Penh, 387–390 Dien Bien Phu, 149 An Phu Tourist, 188, 207, Siem Reap, 410–417 environmentally 208, 212, 239, 271 Sihanoukville, 403–404 friendly, 42 An Phu Tours (Hanoi), 70–71 Can Tho, 354–355, 358–359 Hanoi, 67 An Thoi, 366 Cao Bang, 154 Ho Chi Minh City, 294 An Thoi Archipelago, 366 Cat Ba Island, 168–169 Hue, 186 Antiques Cat Tien National Park, 348 Nha Trang, 268 Hanoi, 117 Con Dao Archipelago, Phu Quoc, 361–362 regulations, 117 342–343 Quy Nhon, 262 A-1 Hill (Dien Bien Phu), 150 Dalat, 240–243 to , 23–24 Apocalypse Now (Hanoi), 123 Danang, 208–210 within Vietnam, 24–25 Apricot Gallery Dien Bien Phu, 149–150 Alexandre Yersin Museum Hanoi, 120 environmentally (Nha Trang), 279 Ho Chi Minh City, 329 friendly, 42 Allez Boo (Ho Chi Minh City), Apsara dance (Cambodia), Haiphong, 158, 160 333 435 Halong City, 162–163 Alphana Jewelry (Ho Chi Apsara Faces (Cambodia), Hanoi, 77–88 Minh City), 332 425–426 Ho Chi Minh City, 300–313 Amazing Internet (Hanoi), 75 Area codes, 441 Hoi An, 213–220 Amber Room (Ho Chi Minh Army Museum (Hanoi), 108 Hue, 188–192COPYRIGHTEDCity), 333 MATERIALArt galleries Lai Chau, 151 Ambre (Phnom Penh), 397 Hanoi, 120–121 Lang Co Beach, 205 American Express, Phnom Ho Chi Minh City, 329–330 Lang Son, 155, 156 Penh, 386 Phnom Penh, 397 Mai Chau, 143 American Foundation for the Artista Cafe (Dalat), 245 Mekong Delta, 356 Blind (AFB), 37 Art Suriya Travel (Phnom My Lai, 267 Ana Mandara (Nha Trang), Penh), 400 Nha Trang, 271–276 282 Art Vietnam (Hanoi), 120 Ninh Binh, 174 Anam QT Spa (Ho Chi Minh Asasax Art Gallery (Phnom Phan Thiet, 286–289 City), 329 Penh), 397 Phu Quoc, 363–365 Angkor Hospital for Children Asiana Travel Mate Pleiku and Kontum, 257 (Siem Reap), 406 (Hanoi), 69

221_526606-bindex.indd1_526606-bindex.indd 460460 112/23/092/23/09 11:3111:31 PMPM Asia Transpacific Journeys, Danang, 208 Bird flu (avian influenza), 32 461 43, 46, 375 Dien Bien Phu, 149 Bird-watching ATMs (automated-teller Haiphong, 158 Cat Ba Island, 171 machines), 27 Halong City, 162 Cat Tien National Park, 347 Hanoi, 74 Hanoi, 74 Bliss (Phnom Penh), 397 Australia Ho Chi Minh City, 298 Bliss Spa (Phnom Penh), 398 customs regulations, 23 Hoi An, 212–213 Blue Diving Club (Nha Trang), embassy of Hue, 188 281 in Cambodia, 378 Kontum, 257 Boat-building operation in Vietnam, 75 Lang Son, 155 (Quy Nhon), 266 passports, 443 Nha Trang, 271 Boat travel and cruises, 24 visas, 445 Phan Thiet, 285–286 Cambodia, 378–380 Authentique Interiors (Ho Phnom Penh, 386 Battambang, 438 Chi Minh City), 332 Phu Quoc, 363 Siem Reap, 408 Avian influenza (bird flu), 32 Quy Nhon, 264 Can Tho, 354, 358 Avis Rent a Car, 38 Sapa, 136 Cat Ba Island, 167–168 A-Z Queen Salute Café Travel Son La, 146 Con Dao Archipelago, 342 (Hanoi), 69, 75 Vung Tau, 336 Haiphong, 158 Ban Lac, 143 Halong Bay, 164–166 Banteay Kdei (Cambodia), 429 Ho Chi Minh City, 296, 333 Ba Be Lake, 152–153 Banteay Srei (Cambodia), 430 Mekong Delta, 356 Ba Be National Park, 153 Bao Dai’s Palace (Dalat), 246 Nha Trang, 281–282 Ba Be Street (Hanoi), 121 Bao Khan Street (Hanoi), 122, Phnom Penh, 384, 386 Bacchus Corner (Ho Chi Minh 124–125 Phu Quoc, 362, 366 City), 331 Bao Quoc (Hue), 198 Vung Tau, 336 Bac Ha Market (Sapa), Baphuon (Cambodia), 426 Body Tune Spa (Siem Reap), 139–140 Barbara’s Backpackers 434 Bach Dang (Ho Chi Minh (Quy Nhon), 264 Bokor Mountain, 399 City), 319 Bat Dan Street (Hanoi), 104 Bonsai Cruise (Ho Chi Minh Bach Ma National Park, Battambang (Cambodia), City), 333 203–205 436–440 Bookstores Bach Ma Temple (Hanoi), 107 Bat Trang, 127 Hanoi, 121–122 Backroads, 46 The Bayon (Cambodia), 425 Ho Chi Minh City, 330 Ba Dinh District (Hanoi), 71, Bazar (Phnom Penh), 397 Bookworm (Hanoi), 121 108–110 Beaches. See also specific Boom Boom Room (Phnom Ba Hung (Halong Bay), 167 beaches Penh), 397 Bai Chay (Halong City), 162 best, 3 Bridge of the Rising Sun Bai Dat Doc, 341 Cat Co, 171–172 (Hanoi), 103, 111 Bai Sau (Crocodile Lake), Nha Trang, 280 Brown Eyes (Hue), 194 347–348 Beng Melea (Cambodia), 430 Bru people, 235 Ba Island, 346 Ben Thanh Market (Ho Chi Buddha Lounge (Siem Reap), Bai Tu Long Bay, 164 Minh City), 318–319, 321 436 Bakeng Hill (Cambodia), Beyond (Angkor), 433 Buffalo Tours, 44, 68, 126, 424–425 B-52, Downed (Hanoi), 109 135, 166, 173, 350 Bamboo Forest (Truc Lam) Bia hoi stands Bunker of Colonel Christian Zen Monastery (Dalat), 249 Hanoi, 124–126 De Castries (Dien Bien Bambou Company Ho Chi Minh City, 335 Phu), 150 Hoi An, 230 Bich Dong Temple (near Ninh Buon Ma Thuot, 249–255 Hue, 194 Binh), 176 Business hours, 441 Nha Trang, 282 Biking Bus travel Ban Don, 254 Can Tho, 354 Cambodia, 380, 386 Ban Gioc waterfalls, 154–155 Hanoi, 74, 115 Battambang, 437 Banks and ATMs Ho Chi Minh City, 296 Siem Reap, 408 Buon Ma Thuot, 251 Siem Reap, 409 Sihanoukville, 402 Cambodia, 376 Binh Chau Hotsprings (near Can Tho, 358 Siem Reap, 410 Vung Tau), 340 Dalat, 236, 238 Sihanoukville, 402 Binh Dinh Museum (Quy Danang, 207 Can Tho, 354, 358 Nhon), 266 Haiphong, 158 Cao Bang, 154 Binh Tay Market (Ho Chi Hanoi, 68 Dalat, 239 Minh City), 326 Ho Chi Minh City, 295

221_526606-bindex.indd1_526606-bindex.indd 461461 112/23/092/23/09 11:3111:31 PMPM 462 Bus travel (cont.) tour operators, 374–375 Catherine Denoual-Maison Hue, 186 traveling to, 378 (Ho Chi Minh City), 332 Nha Trang, 270 visitor information, 374 Cat Tien National Park, Phan Thiet, 285 Cambodia Cultural Center 346–349 Quy Nhon, 262 (Siem Reap), 435 Cau Lac Bo Nhac Jazz Club Sapa, 135 Camp Fuller and the (Hanoi), 126 within Vietnam, 25–26 Rockpile, 201 Cave of Stakes (Do Go; But Thap Pagoda, 127 Cam Ranh Airport (Nha Halong Bay), 166 Trang), 268 Cave of the Prehistoric Man Cam Ranh Bay, 283 (Cuc Phuong National Café Central (Ho Chi Minh Canada Park), 178 City), 319 customs regulations, 23 Caves, Marble Mountains, Café Galy (Dalat), 245 embassy of 211 Cafe Latin (Ho Chi Minh City), Cambodia, 378 Cellphones, 48–49 333 Vietnam, 75 Centers for Disease Control Café l’Opera (Ho Chi Minh passports, 443 and Prevention, 27 City), 320 visas, 445 Central Circus (Hanoi), 123 Cafe 333 (Ho Chi Minh City), Can Gio Island, 327 Central Coast, 18 320 Can Tho, 353–357 Central Highlands, 18, Cage (Ho Chi Minh City), Can Tho Tourist Company, 232–260 333–334 354 ethnic minority hilltribes, Cai Be Floating Market Cantonese Assembly Hall 234–235 (My Tho), 353 (Quang Trieu/Guangzhou Central Market Cai Rang Floating Market Assembly Hall; Hoi An), 226 Hoi An, 227 (near Chau Doc), 352, Cao Bang, 153–155 Phnom Penh, 395 356–357 Cao Dai Holy See Temple Central Vietnam, 184–231 Calendar of events, 19–21 (near Ho Chi Minh City), brief description of, 53–54 Cambodia, 368–440 327–328 Cha Ca Street (Hanoi), 106 accommodations, 380–381 Cao Dai sect, 210 Cham Island, 228 business hours, 381 Cao Dai Temple (Danang), The Cham Museum (Danang), crime, 381 210 210–211 cuisine, 373 Capitol Guesthouse Tours ChamPa (Hoi An), 231 customs regulations, 375 (Phnom Penh), 384 Cham people, 206, 228 drug laws, 381 Capitol Tour (Cambodia), Cham Tower (near Phan electricity, 382 375, 379, 380, 408, 437 Thiet), 290 emergencies, 382 Carnets d’Asie (Angkor), 433 Chapel of St. Pierre (Phat entry requirements, 375 Car travel Diem), 179 etiquette, 372–373 Buon Ma Thuot, 250 Charlie Hill, 259 foreign embassies in, 378 Cambodia, 380 Cha Tam (Ho Chi Minh City), getting around, 379–380 Sihanoukville, 402 326 health concerns and vacci- Can Tho, 353 Chau Doc, 357–360 nations, 377–378 Cat Tien National Park, 348 Chicken Village (Lat Village; history of, 370 Dalat, 236, 238 near Dalat), 248 hospitals, 382 Danang, 207 Children, families with, Internet access, 382 Hanoi, 72 38–39 Khmer people, 372 Ho Chi Minh City, 295 Chi Linh Star Golf and Coun- language, 373–374 North-Central Vietnam, try Club (near Hanoi), 115 lay of the land, 369–370 173 China planning your trip to, Phan Thiet, 285 embassy of, 75 374–383 Sapa, 135 Lao Cai as gateway to, 132 police, 382 to Vietnam, 24 China Beach, 206 post office, 382 within Vietnam, 25 accommodations, 213–214 publications, 382 Cat Ba Island, 167–172 Chinese people in Vietnam, 8 restaurants, 381 Cat Ba National Park, Chinese rule in Vietnam, safety, 377 170–171 10–11 shopping, 381 Cat Cat Village (Sapa), 140 Cho 19-12 (19-12 Market; southern, 399–405 Cat Co beaches, 171–172 Hanoi), 122 suggested itinerary, 63–64 Cathedral of Saint Joseph Cho (Dalat Market), telephone, 382, 383 (Phat Diem), 179 246 toilets, 382

221_526606-bindex.indd1_526606-bindex.indd 462462 112/23/092/23/09 11:3111:31 PMPM Choeung Ek Memorial Cuc Phuong National Park, Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), 463 (Phnom Penh), 395 127, 177 199–202 Cholera, 30 Cuc Phuong National Park Dengue fever, 29, 378 Cholon (“Chinatown” of Ho Endangered Primate Diamond Department Chi Minh City), 325–326 Resource Center, 177 Store (Ho Chi Minh Cho Ra Town, 152–153 Cuisine, 90 City), 331 Chow (Phnom Penh), 398 Cambodia, 373 Dien Bien Phu, 148–150 Christmas, 21–22 snake meat, 99 Dien Bien Phu Cemetery, 150 Chua Phap Hoa (near Vung Culture of Vietnam. See His- Dien Bien Phu loop, 141–152 Tau), 340 tory and culture of Vietnam Dien Bien Phu Museum, 150 Chua Quan Am Temple (Ho Currency and currency Dietary red flags, 30–31 Chi Minh City), 326 exchange. See also Banks Diethelm Travel, 46, 375, Chuong Vang Theater and currency exchange 384, 386, 409 (Hanoi), 107 Cambodia, 376 Disabilities, travelers with, Church Street (Nha Tho; Vietnam, 26–27 37–38 Hanoi), 125 Customs regulations Discrimination, dealing Cinemas, Hanoi, 124 Cambodia, 375 with, 36 The Citadel & Imperial City Vietnam, 23 Diving (Hue), 195–199 Cyclos, Hanoi, 73 Con Dao Archipelago, City Hall (Ho Chi Minh City), 341, 345 321 Nha Trang, 280–281 Climate Dakbla River, 256 Phu Quoc, 367 Cambodia, 376 Daklak Tourist, 250, 251 DMZ (Demilitarized Zone), Vietnam, 18–19 Dakrong Bridge, 200, 201 199–202 Clothing. See also Silk fabrics Dak To, 259 DMZ Café (Hue), 194 and clothing Dalat, 232–249 Doc Let Beach, 283 Ho Chi Minh City, 330–331 accommodations, 240–243 Do Go (Cave of Stakes; packing tips, 20 attractions, 245 Halong Bay), 166 Coc Ly Market (Sapa), 140 cafes, 245 Dom Dek (Cambodia), 430 Colors of Cambodia (Siem getting around, 236, Dong Da District (Hanoi), 71, Reap), 433 238–239 110–111, 155 Co Luong Communal House post office, 240 Dong Da River Valley, 151 (Hanoi), 107 restaurants, 243–245 Dong Duong (Comtoir De Communal houses (Hanoi), telephone, 240 L’Indochine; Ho Chi Minh 101, 104, 106, 107 traveling to, 236 City), 332 Communist Party, Anniver- visitor information & tours, Dong Ha, 200 sary of the Founding of 239 Dong Khoi (Ho Chi Minh the, 20 Dalat Market (Cho Da Lat), City), 329 Con Dao Archipelago, 246 Dong Kinh Nghia Thuc 340–346 Dalat Railway Station (Cre- Square (Tonkin Free School Con Dao Museum, 344 maillaire Railway), 246 Movement Sq.; Hanoi), Con Dao National Park, 346 Dalattourist, 239 103, 108 Connection kit, 49 Damsan Tourist (Buon Ma Dong Nai River, 347 Con Son Island, 340–346 Thuot), 250 Dong Son culture, 11 Cooking classes, Hoi An, 230 Damsan Tours (Buon Ma Dong Xuan Market Council Travel, 41 Thuot), 251 (Hanoi), 122 Country codes, 383 Danang, 205–211 Do Son Buffalo Fighting Fes- Craft Link (Hanoi), 116 Dao Duy Tu Street (Hanoi), tival (near Haiphong), 21 Crazy Kim Bar (Nha Trang), 106 Dragon’s Pearl, 166 282 Dao people, Sapa, 140–141 Dray Sap and Gia Long Credit cards, Cambodia, 376 Dao (Zao) people, 131 Waterfalls, 253–254 Crocodile Lake (Bai Sau), Da River (Song Da) Reservoir, Dr. Beat (Beatocello) Richner 347–348 142, 146 (Siem Reap), 435 Cua Dai Beach, 228 Dead Fish Tower (Siem Reap), Drinking laws, 441 accommodations, 218–220 436 Drug laws, Cambodia, 381 Cua Lo Beach (Vinh), 179, 183 DEET insect repellent, 28 Drugs, Cambodia, 377 Cua Ngo Mon (The Noon Delta Adventure Tours (Ho Drum and Virgin Cave Gate; Hue), 196 Chi Minh City), 350 (Halong Bay), 166–167 Cu Chi Tunnels, 328 Delta Deco (Hanoi), 117 Duong Dong Beach, 365

221_526606-bindex.indd1_526606-bindex.indd 463463 112/23/092/23/09 11:3111:31 PMPM 464 Groovy Gecko Tours (Dalat), Families with children, 239 38–39 asy Riders (Dalat), 44–45, Guava (Nha Trang), 282 E Fansipan, Mount, 134 238–239 Ferries. See Boat travel and Easy Speaking Café and Pub cruises (Siem Reap), 436 ahn’s Green Hat Boat Tour Festival at the Perfume H E-Café (Siem Reap), 410 (Nha Trang), 281 Pagoda (near Hanoi), 20 EcoAdventures (Siha- Hai Ba Trung District Festivals and special events, noukville), 405 (Hanoi), 71 19–21 Ecotourism, 41–43 Haiphong, 157–161 54 Traditions Gallery Halong Bay, 164 Hai Scout Cafe (Hoi An), 231 (Hanoi), 120 Mekong Delta, 350 Hai Van Pass, 202–203 Five Lakes Trail, 204 Eco-Trek Tours Cambodia Halong Bay, 126, 163–167 The Flag Tower (Hue), 195 (Sihanoukville), 405 Halong City, 161–163 Floating villages, 359–360 Ede people, 235 Halong Ginger, 164–165 Flying Wheels Travel, 38 Ede Village, 253 Hamburger Hill, 201 Flying with Disability, 38 Elderhostel, 40 Handspan Travel, 44, 68–69, Food and wine trips, 45 ElderTreks, 40 97, 135, 166 The Forbidden Purple City Electricity Hang Bac Street (Hanoi), 107 (Hue), 195 Cambodia, 382 Hang Buom Street Frangipani (Siem Reap), 434 Vietnam, 441 (Hanoi), 107 French colonial rule, 13–14 The Elephant Terrace Hang Chieu (Hanoi), 106 The French Quarter (Dalat), (Cambodia), 428 Hang Da Market (Hanoi), 104 246–247 Embassies and consulates, Hang Dao (Hanoi), 108 Friends of Vietnam 75, 441 Hang Dau Street (Hanoi), 118 Heritage, 70 The Emeraude, 165 Hang Dieu Street (Hanoi), Fukian Assembly Hall (Phuc Emergencies, 442 104 Kien; Hoi An), 226–227 Cambodia, 382 Hang Duong Street (Hanoi), Funky Monkey (Hanoi), 125 Emperor Jade Pagoda (Phuoc 106 Hai; Ho Chi Minh City), 324 Hang Gai Street (Hanoi), Encephalitis, Japanese, 29, 103–104 378 Galerie Lotus (Ho Chi Minh Hang Nga Guest House and Entry requirements City), 329 Art Gallery (Dalat), 247 Cambodia, 375 Galerie Royal (Hanoi), 118 Hang Phen Street (Hanoi), Vietnam, 22–23 Gan Dau, 366 104 Escorted general-interest Gaya (Ho Chi Minh City), 330 Hang Thiec Street (Hanoi), tours, 46–48 Gays and lesbians, 36–37 101 Eté (Hanoi), 125 Ghenh Rang Landscape Park Hang Vai (Hanoi), 101, 104, Ethnic Hilltribe Museum (Quy Nhon), 266 106 (Kontum), 259 Giac Lam Pagoda (Ho Chi Hanh Hung (Hoi An), 230 Ethnic minorities. See Minh City), 326–327 Hanoi, 65–127 Hilltribes Giai Dieu (Hanoi), 117 accommodations, 77–88 The Ethnographic Museum Gia Long Waterfalls, 253, 254 banks and currency (Buon Ma Thuot), 252 Gio To Hung Vuong, 20–21 exchange, 74 ET Pumpkin Tours, 69, 128 Global Spectrum, 45 business hours, 74 European buildings (Hanoi), Golf climate, 74 101 Hanoi, 115 day trips from, 126–127 European Health Insurance Ho Chi Minh City, 328 doctors and hospitals, Card (EHIC), 33 Phan Thiet, 290 74–75 European Union, embassy Vung Tau, 338 embassies and of, 75 Go2 Bar (Ho Chi Minh consulates, 75 Exhibition of the Resistance City), 334 exploring, 100–114 Against the American Gougah Falls (Dalat), 248 founding of, 66 Invader (Hue), 196 Gourmand Shop (Hanoi), 123 getting around, 72–74 Exotissimo, 46–47, 68, 297, Green travel, 41–43 layout of, 71 350, 375, 384, 409 Green Vespa (Phnom medical services, 442 Extreme weather exposure, Penh), 398 neighborhoods, 71 32–33 Groove Shack (Nha Trang), newspapers and maga- 282 zines, 76

221_526606-bindex.indd1_526606-bindex.indd 464464 112/23/092/23/09 11:3111:31 PMPM nightlife, 123–126 Sapa, 140–141 Internet access, 299 465 outdoor activities and Seminary and Ethnic medical services, 442 other fitness pursuits, Hilltribe Museum nightlife, 333 114–115 (Kontum), 259 post office, 299 pharmacies, 76 Historical Museum (Buon Ma restaurants, 313–320 police, 76 Thuot), 253 safety, 299–300 post office, 76–77 History and culture shopping, 329–333 restaurants, 88–100 Cambodia, 370–372 side trips from, 335–348 safety, 77 Vietnam, 7–17 snacks and cafes, 318–320 shopping, 116–123 HIV, 30 spa and massage facilities, snacks and cafes, 97–100 Hmong, 131 329 spas and fitness, 115 Hmong people, Sapa, telephone, 300 telephone, 77 140–141 toilets, 300 traveling to, 67–68 Hmong Spring Festival, 20 traveling to, 294–296 visitor information and Hoa Binh, 142 visitor information & tours, tours, 68–71 Hoa Binh Noodle Shop (Ho 297–298 Hanoi Art Contemporary Chi Minh City), 324 Ho Chi Minh City Campaign Gallery, 121 Hoa Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton; Museum, 323–324 Hanoi Cinematique, 124 Hanoi), 111 Ho Chi Minh City Museum, Hanoi Cooking Centre, 45 Hoa Lu, 127, 176 321–322 Hanoi Family Medical Hoang Silk (Ho Chi Minh The Ho Chi Minh Fine Arts Practice, 75 City), 332–333 Museum (Ho Chi Minh Hanoi French Hospital, 75 Hoang Tru Village, 182–183 City), 329–330 Hanoi Gallery, 120 Hoan Kiem District (Hanoi), Ho Chi Minh Municipal Thea- Hanoi Hilton (Hoa Lo Prison; 71, 111 ter (Saigon Opera House), Hanoi), 111 Hoan Kiem Lake (Hanoi), 103, 323 Hanoi Language and Culture 111–112, 114–115 Ho Chi Minh Trail, 201 Tours, 43 Ho Chi Minh, 13 Kontum area, 259–260 Hanoi Moment, 117 biographical sketch of, Ho Chi Minh Trail Museum Hanoi Opera House, 111, 123 180–181 (Hanoi), 114 Hanoi Railway Station, 67 birthday of, 21 Hoi An, 211–231 Hanoi Silk, 116 Hoang Tru Village, 182–183 accommodations, 213–220 Hanoi Traditional Opera, 123 home in Hue, 199 attractions, 224–228 Hash House Harriers Kim Lien Village, 183 banks and currency (Hanoi), 124 mausoleum (Hanoi), exchange, 212–213 Health concerns 108–109 cooking courses, 230 Cambodia, 377 museum excursion to My Son, Vietnam, 27–33 Hanoi, 108 228–229 Hepatitis, 29–30, 378 Ho Chi Minh City, 322 getting around, 212 Hidden Hanoi, 69 Hue, 199 Internet access, 213 Highland Coffee (Ho Chi Pac Bo (Ho Chi Minh’s nightlife, 231 Minh City), 320 Hide-Out), 155 post office, 213 Highlands Tour (Nha Trang), residence (Hanoi), 109 restaurants, 220–224 271 statue of (Vinh), 182 shopping, 229–230 Highway 4 (Hanoi), 125 Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), telephone, 213 Hiking 291–348 traveling to, 212 Bach Ma National Park, accommodations, 300–313 visitor information & 203–204 banks and currency tours, 212 Con Dao National Park, 346 exchange, 298 Hoi An Cathedral, 227 Cuc Phuong National Park, budget tourist cafes, 298 Hoi An Cloth Market, 229 177–178 consulates, 299 Hoi An Tourist Guiding Sapa, 140 day trips from, 327–328 Office, 212 Hilltribes (ethnic minorities), dentists, 298 Hoi An Tourist Service 38–39 districts of, 297 Company, 212 Cao Bang area, 154 emergencies, 299 Holidays, 442 Central Highlands, exploring, 320–327 Cambodia, 376 234–235 getting around, 296 Hong Gai (Halong City), 162 Kontum area, 259, 260 hospitals and clinics, 299 Hong Hoa (Hanoi), 117 in northern Vietnam, Hospital Cave, 172 130–131

221_526606-bindex.indd1_526606-bindex.indd 465465 112/23/092/23/09 11:3111:31 PMPM 466 Hospitals Internet access, 49, 442 Kantha Bopha Hospital Cambodia, 382 Cambodia, 382 (Siem Reap), 406 Vietnam, 442 Intimex (Hanoi), 122 Karl Marx Mountain, 155 Ho Than Tho (Lake of Sighs), Intrepid, 46, 47 Karst, in Halong, 164 247 Ipa Nima (Ho Chi Minh City), Kayaking, 164 House of Hoi An Traditional 330–331 Kenh Ga, 127, 176–177 Handicraft, 227–228 Ipa Nima and Tina Sparkle Kenly Silk (Ho Chi Minh Hue, 184–199 (Hanoi), 118–119 City), 333 accommodations, 188–192 Ireland Kep, 399–401 attractions, 195–199 passports, 443 Khai Dinh’s Tomb (Hue), 197 cafes, bars & nightlife, 194 visas, 445 Khai Silk (Hanoi), 116 getting around, 186, 188 Island Massage (Phnom Khai Silk (Ho Chi Minh Internet access, 188 Penh), 398 City), 333 post office, 188 Islands of the Hon Mun Khem Beach, 366–367 restaurants, 192–194 Marine Park, 280–281 Khe San, 201–202 shopping, 194 Islands Traditional Khmer Khmer New Year (Cambodia), telephone, 188 Massage (Siem Reap), 435 376 traveling to, 186 Itineraries, suggested, 54–64 Khmer people, 372 visitor information & Cambodia, 63–64 Kids, 38–39 tours, 188 in 14 days, 59–61 Kien-Giang Tourist (Phu Hue Festival, 189 by motorcycle or jeep, Quoc), 362 Hue Monuments Conserva- 62–63 The Killing Fields (Phnom tion Center, 196 UNESCO World Heritage Penh), 395 Hung Long Art Gallery Sites, 61–62 Kim Giao Forest, 171 (Hoi An), 230 Ivy Bar (Siem Reap), 436 Kim Giao Peak, 171 Hun Tiep Lake (Hanoi), 109 Kim Lien Village, 183 Huong Giang Tourist Com- King Sihanouk’s Birthday pany (Hue), 188 Japan, embassy of, 75 (Cambodia), 376 Huong Nghia Communal Japanese Covered Bridge King’s Island Golf Resort and House (Hanoi), 106 (Hoi An), 227 Country Club (near Hanoi), Huong Tuong Communal Japanese encephalitis, 115 House (Hanoi), 107 29, 378 Koh Ker (Cambodia), 431 Jarai people, 235 Konica Digital Photo Center Jasmine (Ho Chi Minh City), (Hanoi), 122 I Love Vietnam (Hanoi), 69 329 Konkoitu, 260 Imaginative Traveller, 47 Java Café and Gallery Kontum, 255–260 Imperial City (Hue), 195–199 (Phnom Penh), 394 Kontum Tourist, 257 Independence Day (Cambo- Jaya Bot Mohania (Cambo- Krama, 380 dia), 376 dia), 426 K.U. Travel and Tours (Phnom Independence Monument Jean Lou Coiffure De Paris Penh), 384 (Phnom Penh), 395 (Nha Trang), 282 India, embassy of, 75 Jeremy Stein’s Rainbow Div- Indigo (Sapa), 141 ers (Nha Trang), 281 La Bella (Ho Chi Minh Indochina Corner, 260 Jewel of the Bay, 165–166 City), 331 Infostones (Hanoi), 122 Jibe’s (Phan Thiet), 290 Labor Day, International, 21 In Style (Phnom Penh), 398 John McDermott Photogra- La Casa (Hanoi), 117 Insurance, 442 phy (Siem Reap), 433 La Cave (Hanoi), 123 International Association for Jungle Beach, 283 Lady Phi Yen, 341 Medical Assistance to Trav- Jun Village, 254 Lady Phi Yen Temple elers (IAMAT), 27–28 (Con Son), 344 International Gay and Les- La Fenêtre Soleil (Ho Chi bian Travel Association Kabal Spean (Cambodia), Minh City), 320 (IGLTA), 37 431 Lai Chau, 151 International Labor Day, 21 Kampong Phluk (Cambodia), Lake of Sighs (Ho Than Tho), International SOS (Hanoi), 74 431 247 International Student Iden- Kampot, 399–401 Lak Lake, 254 tity Card (ISIC), 41 Kangaroo Cafe (Hanoi), 69 La Louisiane (Nha Trang), International Youth Travel Kantha Bopha Foundation 280–282 Card (IYTC), 41 (Siem Reap), 435

221_526606-bindex.indd1_526606-bindex.indd 466466 112/23/092/23/09 11:3111:31 PMPM Lam Ty Ni Pagoda (Home of Lunar New Year Festival Morning Glory Restaurant 467 Thay Vien Thuc; Dalat), (Tet Nguyen Dan), 20 and Cooking School, 45 247–248 Ly Dynasty (Hanoi), 123 Mosaique (Hanoi), 119 Land Mines Museum Mosquitoes, 28–29 (Cambodia), 431 MossRehab, 37 Lang Co Beach, 204–205 McDermott, John, 433 Mot Island, 281 Lang Hai, 339–340 Mai Chau, 142–145, 148 Motorcycle taxis Lang Son, 155–156 Mai Gallery (Hanoi), 120 Cambodia Language Mail, 442–443 Siem Reap, 408–409 Cambodia, 373–374 Malaria, 28–29, 377–378 Sihanoukville, 402 Vietnam, 442 , embassy of, 75 Danang, 208 Lan Ong Street (Hanoi), 106 Ma May Street (Hanoi), 107 Hanoi, 73 Lao Cai, 128–132 Mango Rooms (Hoi An), 231 Ho Chi Minh City, 296 Maps, Hanoi, 76 Phan Thiet, 285 embassy of, 75 Marble Mountains, 207, 211 Phnom Penh, 386 traveling to Vietnam Markets Quy Nhon, 262 from, 24 Cao Bang area, 154 Motorcycle travel and rent- L’Apothiquaire (Ho Chi Minh Hanoi, 122 als, 144–145 City), 329 Hoi An, 227 Buon Ma Thuot, 250–251 La Salsa (Hanoi), 125 Phnom Penh, 395, 397 Cambodia, 380 Lat Village (Chicken Village; Sapa, 139–140 Siem Reap, 409 near Dalat), 248 Mavena Hanoi, 116 Dalat, 238–239 Laundry (Siem Reap), 436 MC Decoration (Ho Chi Minh Hanoi, 73, 144–145 Legal aid, 442 City), 332 Ho Chi Minh City, 296 Legend of the Lake of the Medical services, 442 Hue, 188 Recovered Sword (Hanoi), MedjetAssist, 33 Kampot, 400 111 Mekong Delta, 349–367 packing tips, 145 Legise de Pierre (Stone Cha- typical itineraries, 350, 352 safety, 145 pel; Phat Diem), 179 visitor information and suggested itinerary, 62–63 Le Lezard Bleu (Phnom tours, 349–350, 352 Mr. Cuong’s Motorbike Penh), 397 Mekong Express Tours, 358, Adventure (Hanoi), 73, 144 Le Mat (“Snake Village”), 99 380, 384, 386, 402, 408, 409 Mr. Hung’s Vietnam Adven- Lenin River, 155 Metropole Hotel (Hanoi), 115 ture Tour Le Pub (Hanoi), 125 Mid-Autumn Festival, 21 Hanoi, 73 Les Epices (Ho Chi Minh City), Mieu Island, 281–282 Mai Chau, 144–145 332 Mi Indochine (Ho Chi Minh Mui Ne Sailing Club (Phan Level 23 (Ho Chi Minh City), City), 331 Thiet), 290 334 Minh Dam, 340 Mun Island, 281 Lien Khuong Airport (Dalat), Minh Mang, Tomb of Muong people, 131 236 (Hue), 197 Museum of History and Cul- Life Photo Gallery (Hanoi), Mirror Mirror (Hanoi), 119 ture (Hoi An), 225 121 Miss Vy’s School of Cooking Museum of Trade Ceramics Linga (Siem Reap), 436 (Hoi An), 230 (Hoi An), 225 Ling Ong Pagoda (near M’Lieng Village, 254–255 Museums, best, 3 Danang), 211 M’nong people, 235 Myanmar, embassy of, 75 Linh Phuoc Pagoda (Dalat), M’nong-style jugs of My Khe Beach, 206 248 whiskey, 255 accommodations, 210 Littering, 35 Mobility-Advisor.com, 38 My Lai, 267 Long Beach, 363–365 Mobiphone, 48 My Lai Massacre, 267 Long Son Pagoda (Nha Mojo (Ho Chi Minh City), 320 My Son, 228–229 Trang), 279 Molly Malone’s (Siem Reap), My Tho, 353 Louisiane (Nha Trang), 278 436 Love Planet Tours and Books Money and costs, 26–27 (Hanoi), 121 Cambodia, 376 Nagu (Hanoi), 119 Lucky! Lucky! (Phnom Penh), Monsoon seasons, 18 Nam Nguyen, 255 386 Monument Books (Angkor), National Day, 21 Lucky Market (Phnom Penh), 433 National Museum (Phnom 397 Monument Books (Phnom Penh), 395–396 Penh), 398

221_526606-bindex.indd1_526606-bindex.indd 467467 112/23/092/23/09 11:3111:31 PMPM 468 National Museum of Viet- Nha Tu Phu Quoc, 366 Osmose (Cambodia), namese History (Hanoi), Nightlife 409, 432 112 Hanoi, 123–126 Oudong (Cambodia), 398 National Oceanographic Hoi An, 231 Outdoor activities, best, 3–4 Museum of Vietnam (Nha Hue, 194 Trang), 279 Nine Dynastic Urns (Hue), Neak Krorhorm Travel and 196–197 Pac Bo (Ho Chi Minh’s Tour (Cambodia), 384, 408, 19-12 Market (Cho 19-12; Hide-Out), 155 409, 437 Hanoi), 122 Pac Bo Caves, 154 New Collection: Hoa Sua Ninh Binh, 173–179 Pacharan (Ho Chi Minh Embroidery and Sewing Ninh Binh area, 127 City), 334 Showroom (Hanoi), 116 Noi Bai International Airport Packing tips, 20 New Market (Siem Reap), 433 (Hanoi), 67 motorcycle travel, 145 Newspapers and magazines The Noon Gate (Cua Ngo Pak Kaw, 153 Cambodia, 382 Mon; Hue), 196 Paradise Ocean Noon Golf Vietnam, 443 North-Central Vietnam, Club (Vung Tau), 338 Hanoi, 76 173–183 Parasailing, 282 New Year’s Day, 20 Northeastern coast, 157–172 Paris Peace Accords, 16 New Zealand Northeastern highlands loop, Particular Art Gallery (Ho Chi customs regulations, 23 152–156 Minh City), 329 embassy of, 75 The northern highlands, Pa So, 151, 152 passports, 443 128–156 Passports, 22, 443 visas, 445 Northern Vietnam, 18 Peace Cafe (Dalat), 238, Ngoc Son pagoda (Hanoi), brief description of, 53 239, 245 103, 111 hilltribes, 130–131 Perfume Pagoda (near Nguom Ngao Cave, 155 Notre Dame Cathedral (Ho Hanoi), 127 Nguyen Cau Digital Camera Chi Minh City), 322 Festival at the, 20 Lab (Hanoi), 122 Nui Ba Den, 328 Perfume River, 186 Nguyen dynasty, 65, 186, Nung people, 131 Petro Express (Vung Tau), 196, 197, 323 336 Nguyen Hue, 261 Phan Thiet, 285–290 Nguyen Hue Plaza (Ho Chi O’Briens (Ho Chi Minh Phat Diem, 127, 178 Minh City), 321 City), 334 Phat Tire Ventures, 44, 58, Nguyen Sieu Street Ocean Dunes Golf Course 239 (Hanoi), 107 (Phan Thiet), 290 The Philippines, embassy Nha Tho (Church Street; Off-road adventures, 44–45 of, 75 Hanoi), 125 The Old House of Phun Hung Phnom Chisor (Cambodia), Nha Tho Street (Hanoi), (Hoi An), 225 398 117, 118 The Old House of Tan Ky (Hoi Phnom Penh (Cambodia), Nha Trang, 268–283 An), 225–226 383–399 accommodations, 271–276 Old Quarter (Hanoi), 71 accommodations, 387–390 attractions, 279–280 nightlife, 124 attractions, 395 banks and currency sights and attractions, clinics, 387 exchange, 271 100–114 day trips from, 398–399 cafes, 278 street name translations of emergencies, 387 crime in, 270 Old Quarter trades, 102 getting around, 386 getting around, 270–271 walking tour, 103–108 Internet access, 387 nightlife, 282–283 Old Wooden Church and nightlife, 398 post office and mail, 271 Orphanage (Kontum), post office, 387 restaurants, 276–278 258–259 restaurants, 390–394 shopping, 282 One-Pillar Pagoda (Hanoi), shopping and galleries, side trips and overnights 109 397–398 from, 283 163 Cyclo Bar (Ho Chi Minh snacks and cafes, 394 telephone, 271 City), 334 spa services, 398 traveling to, 268, 270 Ong Lang, 366 telephone, 387 visitor information & tours, Ong Lang Beach, 365 traveling to, 384, 386 270–271 “Open tours,” 26, 70 visitor information and Nha Trang Sailing Club, Oriental Gallery (Hanoi), 121 tours, 384 280–283 Orient Gallery (Hanoi), 121

221_526606-bindex.indd1_526606-bindex.indd 468468 112/23/092/23/09 11:3111:31 PMPM Phnom Penh International Prenn Falls (Dalat), 248 Buon Ma Thuot, 252 469 Airport, 378 Pre Rup (Cambodia), 426 Cambodia, 381 Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Prescription medications, 33 Kampot and Kep, 401 Park, 183 Press Club (Hanoi), 125 Phnom Penh, 390–394 Phsar Chas Netweb (Siem Psar Chas, the Old Market Siem Reap, 417–422 Reap), 410 (Siem Reap), 434 Sihanoukville, 404–405 Phuc Kien (Fukian Assembly PTM Travel and Tours (Cam- Can Tho, 355–356, 359 Hall; Hoi An), 226–227 bodia), 384, 409 Cao Bang, 154 Phung Hung Street (Hanoi), Cat Ba Island, 169–170 104 Con Dao Archipelago, Phuoc Hai (Emperor Jade Q Bar (Ho Chi Minh City), 342–343 Pagoda; Ho Chi Minh City), 334 Dalat, 243–245 324 QT Salon and Spa (Hanoi), Danang, 210 Phu Quoc Island, 350, 352, 115 environmentally 360–367 Quan Chuong Gate (Hanoi), friendly, 42 Phu Quoc Pearl Farm, 366 106 Haiphong, 160–161 Phu Quoc Ridgeback, 361 Quang Ngai, 267 Hanoi, 88–100 Planning your trip Quang’s Ceramics (Hanoi), Ho Chi Minh City, 313–320 to Cambodia, 374–383 117 Hoi An, 220–224 to Vietnam, 18–51 Quang Trung, Emperor, 21, Hue, 192–194 accommodations, 261 Lang Son, 156 49–51 Quang Trung Museum (Quy Le Mat, 99 calendar of events, Nhon), 266 Mai Chau, 143 19–21 Quan Kong Temple (Hoi An), Ninh Binh, 174 customs regulations, 23 227 Phan Thiet, 289–290 entry requirements, Quan Su Pagoda (Hanoi), Phu Quoc, 363–365 22–23 112–113 Pleiku and Kontum, 258 escorted general-inter- Quan Thanh Temple (Hanoi), Quy Nhon, 265–266 est tours, 46–48 110 Son La, 146–147 getting around, 24–26 Queen’s Beach (Quy Nhon), Vinh, 179 health concerns, 27–33 266 Vung Tau, 338 money and costs, Queen Travel (Hanoi), 69 Reunification Palace (Ho Chi 26–27 Quy Hoa Leper Colony (Quy Minh City), 322–323 packing tips, 20 Nhon), 266 Revolutionary Museum safety concerns, 33–36 Quy Nhon, 261–267 Buon Ma Thuot, 253 special-interest trips, Hanoi, 113 43–45 Rex Hotel (Ho Chi Minh City), specialized travel Rabies, 30, 32 dinner theater, 335 resources, 36–41 Rainbow Bar (Nha Trang), 278 Rhododendron Trail, 204 staying connected, Rainbow Divers, 345–346, Rice, 352 48–49 367 Rising Sun (Phnom Penh), sustainable tourism, Rainfall, monthly, 19 398 41–43 R & R Tavern (Hanoi), 126 Roch Chapel (Phat Diem), traveling to Vietnam, Red Beer (Hanoi), 126 179 23–24 Red Bridge Cooking School Rock climbing, 164, 239, 429 when to go, 18–19 (Hoi An), 230 The Rockpile, 201 Pleiku, 255–260 Red Door Deco (Ho Chi Minh Roluos Group (Cambodia), Police, 443 City), 332 431 Polite Pub (Hanoi), 125 Red Dunes, 290 Romy’s Ice Cream and Coffee Pol Pot, 372 Red River, 126–127 Bar (Nha Trang), 278 Pom Coong, 143 Regions of Vietnam, 53–54 Route 6, 147, 148 Pomten’s Bar (Hue), 194 Religion, 9 Royal Palace and Silver Po Ngar Cham Towers (Nha hilltribe, 130 Pagoda (Phnom Penh), 396 Trang), 280 Respiratory illnesses, 32 Royal Theater (Hue), 195 Pongour Falls (Dalat), 248 Responsible tourism, 34–35 Royal Traditional Theater Poretti, Pier, 433 Restaurants (Hue), 195 Preah Khan (Cambodia), Ba Be Lake and Cho Ra Russian Market (Phnom 428–429 Town, 153 Penh), 395, 397 Preak Toal (Cambodia), 431 best, 6

221_526606-bindex.indd1_526606-bindex.indd 469469 112/23/092/23/09 11:3111:31 PMPM 470 Sexually transmitted dis- Son La, 146–147 Safety concerns, 33–36 eases (STDs), 30 Son La Prison, 147 Cambodia, 377 Sheridan’s (Ho Chi Minh Sorya Shopping Centre motorcycle travel, 145 City), 334 (Phnom Penh), 398 The Sa Huynh Culture Shopping, Cambodia, 381 Sorya Transport (Phnom Museum (Hoi An), 225 Siem Reap (Cambodia), Penh), 386 Saigon. See Ho Chi Minh City 405–436 South-Central Vietnam, Saigon Crafts (Ho Chi Minh accommodations, 410–417 261–290 City), 332 attractions, 422–427 Southern Cambodia, Saigon Liberation Day, 21 emergencies, 410 399–405 Saigon Opera House (Ho Chi getting around, 408–409 Southern Vietnam, 19 Minh Municipal Theater), Internet access, 410 brief description of, 54 323 nightlife, 435–436 , embassy of, 75 Saigon Saigon (Ho Chi Minh post office, 410 Spas and massage City), 334 restaurants, 417–422 Cambodia Saigon Square (Ho Chi Minh shopping, 432–434 Phnom Penh, 398 City), 331–332 spas and massage, Siem Reap, 434–435 Saigontourist, 297, 342, 350 434–435 Hanoi, 115 Sailing telephone, 410 Ho Chi Minh City, 329 Hoi An, 228 traveling to, 408 Special events and festivals, Nha Trang, 282 visitor information & 19–21 Sam Mountain, 360 tours, 409 The Spotted Cow (Hanoi), Sapa (Ho Chi Minh City), Siem Reap Airport, 378 126 132–141, 332 Sihanoukville, 399, 402–405 Squid fishing trips, 366 accommodations, 136–138 Silk & Pepper (Phnom Penh), Sra Serang Reservoir attractions, 139–141 397 (Cambodia), 429 banks and communication, Silk fabrics and clothing STA Travel, 41 136 Hanoi, 116–117 Stone Chapel (Legise de restaurants, 138–139 Ho Chi Minh City, 332–333 Pierre; Phat Diem), 179 shopping, 141 Hoi An, 229 Student travel, 40–41 traveling to, 134–135 Hue, 194 Studio (Hanoi), 126 visitor information and Phnom Penh, 397 Suai Cai Crossroad, 366 tours, 135–136 Silver Lake, 290 Summit Trail (Bach Ma SARS, 32 Silver Pagoda (Phnom Penh), National Park), 204 SATH (Society for Accessible 396 Sun exposure, 32–33 Travel & Hospitality), 37 Single travelers, 41 Sunset Bar (Hanoi), 126 Sayon Silkworks (Phnom Sinh Balo (Ho Chi Minh City), Surprise Cave (Halong Bay), Penh), 397 297–298 166 Scuba diving Sinh Café, 24 Con Dao Archipelago, 341, Dalat, 239 345 Hanoi, 70 a Dambong, statue of Nha Trang, 280–281 T Ho Chi Minh City, 298, (Battambang), 439 Phu Quoc, 367 350, 379 Ta Kaeo (Cambodia), 429 Sea kayaking, 164 Hue, 188 Tam Coc (Three Grottoes; Sea turtles Phan Thiet, 285 near Van Lam), 127, 174 Con Son, 346 Sinh Café II (Ho Chi Minh Tam Duong, 152 Hon Bay Canh, 341 City), 298 Tam Island, 281 Sedang people, 235 Sinh Café III (Nha Trang), 271 Tam-Tam Café (Hoi An), 231 Seductive (Hue), 194 Sinh Café IV (Hoi An), 212 Tam Thuong Alley (Hanoi), Seeing Hands IV (Siem Reap), Sin Ho, 151 104 435 Smoking, 443 Tan Dinh Cathedral (Ho Chi Seminary and Ethnic Hilltribe “Snake Village” (Le Mat), 99 Minh City), 325 Museum (Kontum), 259 Snorkeling, Phu Quoc, 367 Tan Dinh Market (Ho Chi Senior travel, 40 Society for Accessible Travel Minh City), 325 Senses Salon and Spa & Hospitality (SATH), 37 Tan My (Hanoi), 117 (Phnom Penh), 398 Solace (Hanoi), 126 Tan My Design (Hanoi), 119 Senteurs d’Angkor (Siem Song (Hanoi), 119 Tan Son Nhat airport (Ho Chi Reap), 434 Song Da (Da River) Reservoir, Minh City), 294 Serepok River, 253 142, 146 Taoi people, 235 17th Parallel, 200

221_526606-bindex.indd1_526606-bindex.indd 470470 112/23/092/23/09 11:3111:31 PMPM Ta Phin Village and Cave Thic Ca Phat Dai (Vung Tau), Lang Son, 155 471 (Sapa), 140 338 Nha Trang, 268, 270 Ta Prohm (Cambodia), 429 Thien Cung Grotto (Heavenly Quy Nhon, 262 Tara and Kys Art Gallery Cave; Halong Bay), 166 Sapa, 134–135 (Siem Reap), 434 Thien Hau-The Lady Temple to Vietnam, 24 Tashunco (Nha Trang), 282 (Ho Chi Minh City), 326 within Vietnam, 25 Taxes, 443 Thien Mieu Temple Trai Phu Hai Prison (Con Taxis, Hanoi, 72 (Hue), 196 Son), 344–345 Tay people, 131 Thien Mu Pagoda (Hue), 198 Trai Phu Son (Con Son), 345 Tay Son Rebellion, 184, 261 Thien Ngan (Ho Chi Minh Tram Ton, 150 Telephone, Cambodia, City), 330 Tram Ton Pass, 152 382, 383 Thien Vuong Pagoda The Tran Family Home and Telephones, Vietnam, (Dalat), 248 Chapel (Hoi An), 226 443–444 Things of Substance Trang Bang, 328 Temperatures, average (Hanoi), 119 Trang Tien Bridge (Hue), 186 daily, 19 Thoi Son Island, 353 Trang Tien Plaza (Hanoi), 118 Temple of Literature and Three Grottoes (Tam Costs Trang Tien Street (Hanoi), 121 National University (Van of cruises; near Van Lam), Tran Quoc pagoda (Hanoi), Mieu-Quoc Tu Giam; 127, 174 110 Hanoi), 110–111 Three Trees (Hanoi), 119 Travel CUTS, 41 Temples and archaeological Thuan An Beach (Hue), 199 Traveler’s checks, Cambodia, sites, best, 2–3 Thua Thien-Hue region, 184 376 Terrace of the Leper King Time zones Traveling to Vietnam, 23–24 (Cambodia), 428 Cambodia, 382 Travel insurance, 442 Terre Cambodge (Cambodia), Vietnam, 444 Treat’s Same Same Café (Hoi 432 Tipping An), 231 Terre Cambodge (Siem Cambodia, 382 Treat’s Same Same Not Dif- Reap), 409 Vietnam, 444 ferent Bar (Hoi An), 231 Tet holiday, 19, 21 TM Brothers (Dalat), 239 Trekking, Con Dao National Tet Nguyen Dan (Lunar New TM Brother’s Café (Nha Park, 346 Year Festival), 20 Trang), 271 Tropical illnesses, 28–29 Tet Offensive, 16 TNK Travel, 69, 350 Truc Lam (Bamboo Forest) Tet Trung Nguyen, 21 To Hieu, tree of (Son La), 147 Zen Monastery (Dalat), 249 Thai Binh Reading Pavilion Toilets Trung Nguyen, 255 (Hue), 195 Cambodia, 382 Trung Trang Cave, 171 Thai Hoa Palace (Hue), 196 Vietnam, 444 Tuan Giao, 147 Tombo (Ho Chi Minh City), 332 Tube house (Hanoi), 101 embassy of, 75 Tomb of Minh Mang (Hue), Tuberculosis, 30, 32 traveling to Cambodia 197 Tuc Dup Hill, 360 overland, 379 Tomb of Tu Duc (Hue), Tu Duc, Tomb of (Hue), Thai people, 131 197–198 197–198 Thang Long (Hanoi), 121 Ton Dao Church (Phat Diem), Tu Hieu (Hue), 198–199 Thang Long Water Puppet 178 Tuk-tuks Theater (Hanoi), 123–124 Tonle Bati (Cambodia), Phnom Penh, 386 Thanh Gia (Hanoi), 115 398–399 Siem Reap, 408 Thanh Ha Communal House Tonle Sap Lake (Cambodia), Tulico Trains, Sapa, 135 (Hanoi), 106 431 Tuol Sleng, Museum of Thanh Ha Silk (Hanoi), 116 Topas Adventure Travel, Genocide (Phnom Penh), Thanh Mai (Hanoi), 121 69, 135 396–397 Thapba Mud Bath and Hot- Tours and tour operators. See Typhoid, 30 spring Resort (near Nha Visitor information and Trang), 282 tours Thap Doi Cham Towers, 267 Tours of Peace (TOP), 44–45 United Kingdom Thap Rua (Hanoi), 112 Train travel customs regulations, 23 Thay Vien Thuc, Home of Danang, 208 for disabled travelers, 38 (Lam Ty Ni Pagoda; Dalat), Haiphong, 158 embassy of, 75 247–248 Hanoi, 67–68 Cambodia, 378 Theater, Hanoi, 123–124 Ho Chi Minh City, 295–296 passports, 443 Hue, 186 visas, 445

221_526606-bindex.indd1_526606-bindex.indd 471471 112/23/092/23/09 11:3111:31 PMPM 472 United States Vietnam Vespa Adventure, Water, drinking, 30–31 customs regulations, 23 43, 45, 285, 298 Cambodia, 382 embassy of Vietnam War, 14–16 Wat Phnom (Phnom Penh), Cambodia, 378 Vietnam War veterans, 397 Vietnam, 75 39–40, 292–293 Wat Phnom Ek (Battambang), passports, 443 tours for, 44–45 440 USIT, 41 Viet Silk (Hue), 194 Wat Phnom Sampeou Vimean Akhar (Cambodia), (Battambang), 440 426 Weather, 18–19 Valley of Love (Dalat), 249 Vina Express (Vung Tau), 336 Western Canned Foods Van Gallery (Hanoi), 121 Vinaphone, 48 (Hanoi), 122 Van Hoa Viet (Hanoi), Vinh, 179–183 West Lake (Hanoi), 110 117–118 Vinh Moc, tunnels of Whale Island, 284–285 Van Loi (Hanoi), 118 (DMZ), 200 Why Not Bar (Nha Trang), 283 Van Mieu-Quoc Tu Giam Vinh Moc Tunnels, 202 Wi-Fi access, 49 (Temple of Literature and Vinh Nghiem Pagoda (Ho Chi Wildlife. See also Bird- National University; Minh City), 324–325 watching Hanoi), 110–111 Visas, 22, 445 Cat Ba National Park, 171 Vasco’s Bar (Ho Chi Minh Visaya Spa (Siem Reap), 434 Cuc Phuong National City), 334 Visitor information and tours Park, 177 Veggy’s (Ho Chi Minh City), Buon Ma Thuot, 251 Women’s Museum (Hanoi), 331 Cambodia, 374 113–114 Veggy’s (Phnom Penh), 398 Can Tho, 354, 358 Women travelers, 39 Vets with a Mission, 45 Dalat, 239 World Express Travel and Victoria Hotels (Ho Chi Minh Danang, 208 Tours (Phnom Penh), 384 City), 350 Hanoi, 68–71 Victoria’s Orient Express, 134 Hoi An, 212 Viet Fine Arts Gallery Hue, 188 Xu (Ho Chi Minh City), (Hanoi), 120–121 Mekong Delta, 349–350, 334–335 , Hanoi, 67 352 Xuan Dieu Street (Hanoi), Vietnamese House Nha Trang, 270–271 118 (Hanoi), 118 North-Central Vietnam, 173 Xuan Huong Lake (Dalat), Vietnamese people, 7–9 Pleiku and Kontum, 257 249 Vietnam Ethnology Museum Quy Nhon, 264 Xuan Thu (Ho Chi Minh City), (Hanoi), 114–115 Sapa, 135 329 Vietnam Explorer (Nha Siem Reap, 409 Trang), 281 Volunteer travel, 42 Vietnam Golf and Country Vung Tau, 335–338 Yaly Couture (Hoi An), 230 Club (Ho Chi Minh City), Yen Bai, 152 328 Yen Thai Communal House Vietnam History Museum (Ho Warehouse (Hanoi), 123 (Hanoi), 104 Chi Minh City), 323 War Remnants Museum (Ho Yen Thai Street (Hanoi), 104 Vietnam National Museum of Chi Minh City), 325 Y-Not? Salon (Hanoi), 115 Fine Arts (Hanoi), 109–110 Wat Banang (Battambang), Yok Don National Park, 250, Vietnam News, 76 439–440 251, 254

221_526606-bindex.indd1_526606-bindex.indd 472472 112/23/092/23/09 11:3111:31 PMPM