The Redlynch Review

The Redlynch and District Local History Society

August 2000 Volume 4

Published by

The Redlynch & District Local History Society

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This is a revised and updated edition of The Redlynch Review published in August 2000.

Copyright © 2021. The Redlynch & District Local History Society

Front cover picture Carpet weaving for Wilton Carpet Factory

by kind permission of The Wilton Carpet Factory

Contents

Chairman’s Report ...... 1

The Third Millenium ...... 1

Redlynch Occupations in 1891 ...... 2

Barford Down Golf Course ...... 5

Peace Day 1919 ...... 6

Woodfalls Primitive Methodist Sunday School Treat ...... 7

Wilton Carpet Factory ...... 8

John Brown 1849-1929 ...... 9

Entertainment in the 1950s and Beyond ...... 11

Cranborne Chase ...... 14

The Parish Magazine ...... 16

The Society’s Year ...... 19

Jogs the Memory...... 22

Redlynch & District Local History Society ...... 23

Book Review ...... 24

Chairman’s Report

Another year has gone by and we are now at the end of the Society's fourth year. It is certainly true that time goes by more quickly as we get older!

It has been a busy and successful year and our membership remains at over eighty. The committee work hard to provide a varied programme and it is good to see more people getting involved and a gradual widening of our activities.

Redlynch 2000 was finally published in January and I found myself, two days before I left to visit my sisters in New Zealand, helping the printers put the covers on and pack them in boxes! We have sold enough copies to cover all our costs and the proceeds are now going to the Village Millennium Fund. I would like to put on record my thanks, not only to the small group who worked so hard on the project and to all those who have bought copies but also to the many local businesses who were prepared to support us by taking advertising space.

Details of our meetings and events can be read about elsewhere in The Review and you can also read about next year's programme.

Thanks are also due to your hardworking committee and to everyone who has contributed both to the running of the Society and by writing articles for this publication. At our Annual General Meeting in October, we shall again be looking for help with the organisation of your Society. Please consider joining us.

Will Waite has once more given time and expertise to produce the Review and special thanks are due to him. I am extremely thankful that he was still prepared to do it after the mammoth effort required for Redlynch 2000!

On 22 and 23 September, the Society is holding an exhibition at Morgan's Vale Hall entitled High Days and Holidays. Photographs of this year's Millennium celebrations will be displayed together with pictures and items from the past. The winners of the schools essay competition will be announced and a book containing all the entries will be on view.

Our next meeting is on Tuesday, 5 September 2000.

Pat Millington July 2000

The Third Millenium

In June this year, Redlynch celebrated the arrival of the new Millennium with a week of special events. Cricket and tennis, a locally written play, a wheelbarrow race, a barn dance, a beer festival and a country fair with an open-air concert by the South-West Trains Woodfalls Band were all included. The finale was a United Churches Services on the playing field conducted by the Vicar and the Methodist Minister and accompanied by the band. On a much smaller scale, the arrival of the 20th century was marked only by a special service in Downton Parish Church. It was held on the evening of 31 December 1900. Have we celebrated a year too soon?

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Redlynch Occupations in 1891

Thanks to RLH Society members Stuart and Jasmine McGee from Trowbridge, who are currently researching Redlynch ancestors, I was able to borrow the 1891 census returns on micro fiche. This meant I could study them at home in relative comfort. I had already studied the 1851 census and listed all the occupations given for those who were either employers, employed or self-employed. Now I did the same for the 1891 returns.

Studying how people were making a living and supporting their families in Redlynch in 1891 gives an insight into the general social conditions of the time. By comparing the occupations with those of earlier times, trends can be demonstrated which may mirror national changes or more local opportunities.

I have used the name Redlynch to cover also the villages of , Lover, Woodfalls, Morgans Vale and Langley Wood. As far as I could tell, these areas were identical or very similar in both the returns. The actual addresses given are rather vague and only the larger houses and farms had names. The handwriting was generally good and easy to read, particularly the 1851 returns, but there were a few names and occupations in the 1891 returns that had to be guess work.

If the number of paupers can be used as an index of social conditions, then conditions in Redlynch in 1891 had certainly improved since 1851. Then there were 71 persons receiving parish relief and this had now fallen to 18 - all elderly with the exception of a young married woman with 5 children and no husband (at any rate he was not at home on the night of the census). There was a doubling in the number of persons said to be 'living on their own means'; presumably income from investments or a pension. These numbered 30, whereas in 1851 there were 14 persons variously described as 'annuitants' or 'landed proprietors'. In addition, at both dates, there were small numbers of army and navy pensioners.

Generally, though, the area remained strongly agricultural with 36 farmers (2 retired) compared to 40 previously. A rather puzzling finding was that the number of agricultural labourers had fallen sharply (from 309 to 103) while the numbers of those described as general labourers had risen greatly (from 13 to 106). In 1851 the census enumerators had noted down how many agricultural labourers each farmer was employing, and it was obvious that there were far more persons claiming to be 'Ag. Labs' than were actually in employment at the time. So presumably these labourers were available for farm work when needed at harvest times etc. In between times of greater farming activity, they lived as best they could, but they described their occupation as agricultural and not as 'general labour'. In 1891 the enumerators no longer noted how many labourers each farmer employed, so it is not possible to guess how many labourers were in permanent farm work. Perhaps by this time the term general labourer was more widely used and meant a person able to turn their hands to a variety of skills. However, there may be another explanation for this. In the country generally at this time, agriculture was in depression, large amounts of corn were being shipped in from America and refrigeration was allowing cargoes of beef to come in from America and Australia. Farm workers were leaving the land for work in towns.

Under the more domestic group of occupations the numbers of those who could best be described as house servants had nearly doubled to 51. The numbers of housekeepers, cooks, butlers, footmen,

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nursemaids and governesses etc also showed rises. Probably those affluent enough to be living on their own means would employ one or two housemaids. Their gardens may also have benefitted as gardeners rose from 5 to 20. There was a definite increase in cleanliness as numbers of laundresses had risen from 6 to 17! The whole area was known for its hand lacemakers, but by 1891 these had suffered the sad fate of being almost completely overtaken by machines. The original 62 persons had now shrunk to just 2 elderly ladies with a further lady describing herself as retired. But there was an increase from 13 to 28 of mostly younger women calling themselves dressmakers and shirt machinists.

Another skill that was in decline was that of the shoemaker. Again, mechanisation was to blame as shoe factories started up and many shoes were imported as well. The presence of the tannery in Downton would have accounted for the trade being so well represented in 1851 with 23 persons gaining a living from boot making to cordwainers making high-class shoes. There were now 9 and one saddler.

Other traditional Redlynch trades were still thriving. The timber trade covering woodmen, merchants, sawyers, hurdle makers and carpenters had all held their own. The special Redlynch besom makers - sometimes called 'broom squires', had held steady at 19 persons at both dates. The brick makers showed an increase from 20 to 33, though this was largely accounted for by numbers now calling themselves labourers in the brick yards. There were now 2 potters.

The iron industry was represented by Jabez Shelley living at Paccombe and described as an iron founder, and John Evans who was lodging in Kiln Row. They may have been using the old site at Foundry Farm, though both men were, in their mid-60's and Jabez had been recorded as an iron founder in 1851 also. The trade had been encouraged by 'new technologies'. Herbert Smith - described as a retired engineer, and Herbert, Walter and William Smith, 'presumably his sons,' were all carrying on a business as agricultural engineers and fitters at the Iron Works. There was also steam engine fitter, 4 (steam) tractor drivers and one owner. The railway coming to Downton in the 1860s had given jobs at the station in Downton to 3 men and there were 2 coal dealers who must have received their coal by rail.

Perhaps the most unusual new occupation to appear on the 1891 census was work at the gun powder mill at Eyeworth near Fritham. The Schultz factory employed 6 men from Redlynch. A gunpowder mill first started here in 1860 and operated through to 1920 before finally closing. There was a big increase in the number of shopkeepers. In 1851 there were just 6 grocers for the 5 villages and there was just one butcher and one baker. Households must have needed to be very self-sufficient in those days. Not surprisingly perhaps, it was rare to find any occupation given for the wife of the head of the household, though not difficult to imagine what she would have been doing. Carriers may have played a large part in fetching in everyday goods from further afield. By 1891 this had all been transformed into 15 employed in the grocery trade, 6 in bakery, 6 in butchery and 11 as general shopkeepers and their assistants.

There were 4 claiming to be in the drapery trade who no doubt sent work out to the young women dressmakers. There were now 4 other publicans to rival The King's Head. There was even a resident photographer and a man from the 'Pru'. But there was, still no doctor.

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In view of this extension in the general lifestyle, it is surprising to find that the total population had actually fallen from 1,971 persons to 1,800. This is probably mainly due to reductions in the agricultural labourers and lacemakers. Generally, though, the picture is one of social improvement and diversification.

The gap of 40 years between these two census returns is a large one. It is impossible to pinpoint if and when sudden changes took place or to demonstrate fluctuating cycles. But probably most changes were fairly gradual. It would need the other census returns to be analysed in a similar way to show this. Are there any local historians out there keen to take up this challenge? Next year will see the 1901 census made public after its obligatory hundred years of secrecy … the excitement mounts!

Rosalind Pasmore

Did I read somewhere that the census is not available until the end of one hundred years, i.e. 1 January 2002? - Ed.

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Barford Down Golf Course

In about 1925, Dr Brian Whitehead, Senior, the Downton Doctor, with the co-operation of the Trafalgar Estate, was responsible for constructing (could it have been re-constructing? See below) a nine-hole golf course on Barford Down. The course, which lasted for about ten years, covered the whole of the Down and also the field on the right of the Down which was privately owned.

The clubhouse was on the right-hand side as you left Mudeford Road. Four holes zig-zagged backwards and forwards across the open hillside and the land which was used for the other five is now fenced in or part of the privately owned field.

The grass was kept short by a flock of Down sheep and only the putting greens were mown.

The real hazard of the course was the steep bank above Barford Down buildings. If you pitched the ball in the wrong place, it shot down the hill and another attempt to get to the top had to be taken. One problem was that the Club House was continually broken into and eventually the course was abandoned.

Donald Egremont.

Co-incidently I came across this piece in the Parish Magazine of December 1971. It is anonymous but possibly by Roger Sharpe, the then Vicar.

... One parishioner (who must be nameless) used to walk over from a neighbouring village to act as a caddy. When the balls were lost, they were lost for as long as the owner was on the course and then they were mysteriously found again, and a handsome reward was paid! Another parishioner says that the club may have been started round 1910 and that she remembers a dance in aid of it about 1912. She was in the schoolroom and was roped into paint Menu cards. She used to play a lot at one time, the last occasion being in April 1923. It was always lovely and peaceful up there and was an ideal course for a beginner. At one-time there was even a professional engaged to give lessons.

The Club may have been formed by the Marriott Smith family who lived at Fairfield, Downton.

Ed.

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Peace Day 1919

At 11am on 11 November 1918, peace came to the armies in the field and the armistice was signed. After four years of the most terrible fighting the world had seen, young men and their families could begin to look forward to life at home. It was to be many months before many of them were demobilised and some would die from gun fire, accidents or illness, before the world could celebrate the return of their servicemen and commemorate the loss of their sons.

1919 saw the start of the attempt to get lives 'back to normal' and to concentrate on things other than war. Alcock and Brown crossed the Atlantic in the first unbroken flight, the R34 airship made a return crossing from America to and Suzy Lenglen won the Ladies' Championship at Wimbledon. Cricket, professional football, Henley Regatta and shooting at Bisley were all revived albeit with some improvisation. With due pomp and circumstance, Princess Patricia married Commander the Honourable Alexander Ramsey at Westminster Abbey. But it was not all sweetness and light. The housing shortage was acute. The German navy scuppered their ships at Scapa Flow where they were interned and nearly 6000 retailers were prosecuted for profiteering. Eamon de Valera, with two other Irishmen, escaped from Lincoln Prison and there was general unrest in the country over unemployment and the length of working hours.

However, all this was put on one side for 'Peace Day' on 19 July 1919. There was a National holiday and, in every city, town and village throughout the country there were enthusiastic celebrations. Although the weather seems to have been fine in London where a temporary structure had been erected to serve as a cenotaph during the Victory Procession, in South , according to the Times & South Wiltshire Gazette it was 'atrocious'! But, in Redlynch, in spite of the weather, much of the planned programme was carried out.

A procession formed at the Post Office in Grove Lane and proceeded to Quavey where the War Shrine was to be dedicated. Private F. Street acted as commandant and H. Brown and F. Newman were mounted marshalls. The South of England Temperance Band, led by Mr. Hayter, was followed by about 70 ex-servicemen, children carrying flags, cars, other vehicles and parishioners on foot. At Quavey, the procession halted for a short service led by the Reverend Adolph Muller. The Shrine was formally handed over by Captain Eyre-Matcham and his brother to the Chairman of the Parish Council, Mr F. Green. After a minute or two of silence there were hearty cheers for Captain Eyre-Matcham and they moved on to St. Mary's Hall where a dinner had been laid on for the returned servicemen. There followed toasts to the Army, Navy and Air Force by Captain Eyre-Matcham and J. Brown and these were acknowledged by Colonel Lord Heytesbury, Private Street, RM and Sergeant Bryant, RAF.

It was planned to hold children's sports after the dinner but, because of the weather, these were rescheduled for the Monday and an informal smoking concert continued throughout the afternoon.

There was then a tea for 600 parishioners in a barn at Newhouse, a Dance at St. Mary's Hall and a Bonfire with fireworks on the Redlynch side of The Ridge at 11pm. And so, to bed ...

On Monday, the sports took place at the cricket field and Hamptworth won the tug-of-war against Redlynch and Nomansland. As there was plenty of food left over from Saturday, the old folk were then treated to a tea together with 89 parishioners from Hamptworth who had not attended the

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parish tea due to a misunderstanding. It was raining again so the Band played for dancing in the Pavilion and, to conclude, there was a rocket display, and an effigy of the Kaiser was burnt. Thanks were expressed to Mr & Mrs Eyre-Matcham and Mr H C Moffatt who had provided tables, vehicles etc and Messrs Egremont, Hand and Street who had made most of the preparations.

What mixed emotions Peace Day must have engendered. Roughly one in six of the population of the (now) Parish of Redlynch served in the forces. Of those, one in six did not return and many others were badly injured.

Pat Millington

Woodfalls Primitive Methodist Sunday School Treat The following article appeared in the Salisbury Times on 3 July 1903.

The annual treat to the scholars was held on Monday at Hamptworth, where Mrs Morrison very kindly threw open her beautiful grounds for the occasion. A capital tea was provided by Mr Cooper of Redlynch, to which a large number of friends sat down. Miss Charlton then conducted the friends through the lovely gardens and greenhouses, a tour which was much appreciated, the flowers, ferneries and fruits being very beautiful. A great many availed themselves of the kindness of Mrs Morrison in placing boats at their disposal on the lake, which presented a charming appearance with its hundred of lilies in full bloom. The South of England Temperance Band, under the leadership of Mr J Green, rendered selections of music during the afternoon and evening. Games were freely indulged in by the scholars; Mrs Morrison kindly erected swings and seesaws. Before leaving each child was presented with a packet of sweets. The Reverend J T Stead proposed, and Mr Frank Harrison seconded, a very hearty vote of thanks to Mrs Morrison and Miss Charlton for their kindness in so readily granting permission for the use of the park, and for the efforts they had made to make the visit enjoyable by all. This was carried with cheers. The party reached home at 10.30pm, having spent one of the most enjoyable days on record.

Submitted by Miss P Brabrook

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Wilton Carpet Factory

My first job of work after leaving school at 14 years of age was as housemaid to Mr & Mrs Sydney Stevens of The Borough, Downton.

One day in 1946, a friend told me that the Wilton Carpet Company was to re-open their factory at Morgan's Vale and would train people to make handwoven rugs and carpets.

I applied and duly started what were to be three very happy years of work; to cycle to Morgan's Vale instead of climbing Lode Hill every day was bliss! The factory where we worked is now W V Wort's Vehicle Parts Service.

There were nine looms, two of which were long enough to seat four or five girls working on the same carpet. I began on loom 8, a single loom. A very nice lady who had worked at the factory before the war taught me about tufts, lashes, edging and pulleys etc.

During the war, the factory had become a Buffer Depot for the Ministry of Supply to store goods; mainly dried food brought in from America and cleared quickly from the docks.

A flat wage was paid during one's training period of up to six weeks. The pay began at 15/- a week until you were proficient enough to weave the required number of tufts in a week to commence piece- work. I have forgotten what this number was but was delighted to be on piece-work within a very short while and able to earn around £2.00 per week.

We were taught how to put the chain of warp and weft threads on to the top and bottom rollers of the loom and also how to make the pulleys bring the back threads between the rows of tufts. We also learnt how to follow the paper patterns of coloured squares with the carpet design on.

It was all very interesting as anyone who has been on a guided tour of the factory at the Wilton shopping village will know. One carpet was made for a Middle Eastern ruler, others for hotels and ships. There were two sister ships with names like Rangitiki and Rangitoto and their carpets were both green with yellow flecks. We were rather fed up with the colour and design by the time the order was completed.

By now, my sister had joined the workforce and we both worked on a lovely circular carpet in off- white and cream. It was rather hard on the eyes as the shades were so similar, and one had to be so careful that no mistake was made because they would be noticed when the carpet was 'sheared' at Wilton. It was beautiful but very costly.

We were a jolly crowd of girls and, as we had Housewives' Choice, Workers' Playtime and other music on the wireless, I am sure that some people in Morgan's Vale were entertained with our singing! Unfortunately, the cost of handmade carpets meant that the life of the factory for this purpose was short-lived and Wilton could not keep it going beyond three years. Their factory in Fordingbridge continued for a while but soon only Wilton remained.

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We were all sorry to leave and missed being with girls from Redlynch, Hale, Morgan's Vale, Landford, Nomansland and Downton. However, such is life, and a lot of good memories remain of our carpet factory days.

After various other jobs, my sister and I, with a great friend from Hale, began to work at the Bacon Factory in Downton and made lots of new friends, some of whom we still meet today.

So, as I began my working life climbing Lode Hill after work each day, so I ended that chapter climbing it again until I married in 1957.

Valerie Elkins

John Brown 1849-1929

My maternal grandfather, John Brown, was headmaster of Redlynch School for more than thirty years until his retirement at the end of 1914. My grandmother Amelia served as assistant for almost the whole of that time, with interruptions consequent upon the birth of a number of their thirteen children, of whom one died in infancy and another, Alfred, was killed at Gallipoli in World War One. The family nurse and retainer, Emily Morris, known as 'Em', took care of the children, enabling Grandma to be back in class each time, with a minimum of delay. My mother, the third in the family, was born in Hull.

Grandpa had a reputation as a strict disciplinarian; this at a time when 'laying it on' was the norm in all schools. I have this on the authority of my old friend, Fred Ings, speaking from his own experience!

When I knew them, they had retired and were living at Bryanston, Vicarage Road, which remained in the family until the death of my Aunt Mabel in 1962, and I well remember many wonderful Christmas parties there with, what seemed to a child, hundreds of us crammed into that small house. In particular, I remember them sitting one on either side of the fireplace and singing a Scottish duet, to the delight of us all.

Grandma was a lady of ample proportions while Grandpa was quite a small man, though he made his mark in the village and the surrounding area.

What follows is an abbreviated version of his obituary, which appeared in the local paper in February 1929, and which I still have.

Death of Mr John Brown Forty Years of Public Service

The passing of Mr John Brown, of Redlynch, who died on Tuesday after a long illness, will revive memories of a long life of useful service in many spheres of action. No man in his day exerted more influence in Downton and district. Mr Brown, who was in his eightieth year, was a native of Plymouth, and had held appointments in the North and at Fordingbridge before taking the mastership of Redlynch School about 44 years ago. For more than thirty years he was the leader in sports, amusements, clubs,

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recreations and politics, as well as education and local government. He was the first chairman of the Parish Council for the Downton area, a member of the charity trust, financial Secretary to the Downton Horticultural Society, and a founder of the Downton and District Unionist Club. He supported the Liberals in politics until the Home Rule divisions of the parties (when) he gave, his influence to the Unionists. In matters of education (he) fought for an improvement in the status and salaries of teachers and was their representative on the Wiltshire Education Committee. He did much pioneer work for the National Union of Teachers and served for a term as its president. Mr Brown was something of an orator, and he never shirked from an expression of his convictions. In social life he was a genial and companionable man, (with) a large circle of friends. He is survived by his wife and a large family of sons and daughters.

A loyal and staunch Churchman, he had served in most of the offices open to a layman and was one of the representatives of the rural deanery on the Salisbury Diocesan Synod.

Stan Crouch. May 2000

Amelia Brown John Brown

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Entertainment in the 1950s and Beyond

The end of World War II found Redlynch with a great need for entertainment and with a plentiful supply of talent to meet that need. Radio; the 'wireless', had become firmly established with such programmes as ITMA. Much Binding in the Marsh and Take it from Here. Television had not yet arrived to keep people indoors in the evenings, and a variety show could be guaranteed to fill either of our two halls.

A gifted music teacher, Mrs Meare, although blind, gave singing lessons which revealed much talent and her pupils appeared in the concerts she organised. A few of us got together and put on shows at functions such as the Cricket Club dinners and fund-raising efforts for the village halls.

Sylvia Tanner or Norah Shelley was always on hand as accompanists, and Douglas Homer would oblige for any charity effort. Dorothy (Newman) Le Page's soprano songs were popular and her 'Musetta's Song' is one which I always remember. Tony Swatridge's baritone solos were also popular and included 'Glorious Devon' and 'When the Sergeant-Major's on Parade'. Hugh O'Neill sang Irish ballads, and a group from Winterslow way called 'Jeff, Frank and Joe' (Annetts, Coombes and Rowe) sang humerous songs at the piano in the style of the Western Brothers - if anyone can remember them! Gillian Lewis, still a schoolgirl, who lived at Langley Wood, was charming as a dancer and acted as compere for one show we put on at St. Mary's Hall. She later became a professional actress on television.

Three groups deserve special mention.

The Sunnysiders

The Sunnysiders Concert Party was formed in the late nineteen-forties and continued with great success for several years. It was founded by cliff (Billy) Williams, a great' comic with a splendid baritone voice, and Herbie Gould, who was a master at building sets, contriving stage props and fixing lighting. We wrote a good deal of our own material, often 'borrowing' a few lines and catch phrases from radio shows and adapting them for our own needs. The Green Sisters, Marion, Pauline and later Jackie, joined us and soon became a most popular singing group. When Billy and I produced the pantomime, Cinderella, at St. Birinus' Hall at Christmas 1951, they all featured in the cast.

We often went by coach to put on shows in other villages around the area, and another pantomime, The Sleeping Beauty, was produced the following year. It ran for four nights and the proceeds went to Redlynch Coronation Committee. Over ten years or so, more than forty people, mainly from Woodfalls, became involved with Sunnysiders and our signature tune, 'Keep your Sunny Side Up', was a prelude to many a happy evening's entertainment.

The Woodfalls Choir

During all this time, the Woodfalls Methodist Church Choir, under the skilful direction of Alan Cooper, and accompanied by Freda Newman, was acquiring great musical expertise both locally and beyond. In 1947, they were joined by the BBC organist, Reginald Foort, for a sacred concert at St. Birinus' Church, and later began to compete in the Wiltshire Music Festival at Devizes. In 1957, in order to 11

enter more classes, they became 'The Woodfalls Singers' and, inviting others of us to join them, they formed a Women's and Male Voice section. Over a period of seven years up to 1962, they were placed first at least eleven times. Sadly, both Alan Cooper and his brother Norman died within a few months of each other in 1965, but Alan's son, Philip, took over as conductor whilst his sister, Ursula, and Brenda Newman acted as accompanists for a number of years. A great highlight for the choir was the Church Centenary in 1974, when part of the Messiah was performed, and past members were invited to take part. An honoured guest preacher that year was George Thomas, the late Lord Tonypandy, who was then Deputy Speaker of the House of Commons.

We were still putting on shows in both halls and could call on the talents of the Male Voice Choir, the Green Sisters, Kathleen Courtney on the piano, Tony Swatridge and many others. Once or twice, in the late fifties, I brought my Devizes Road School Choir out from Salisbury to perform.

At a concert in St. Birinus' Hall, early in 1957, we presented a little comedy called 'The Bathroom Door', and the first seeds were sown for what was to become 'The Redlynch Players. Someone said, 'we should start a drama group!' I feel sure the inspiration was hers. Anyhow, a few weeks later, I put notices around the village, and probably in the Parish Magazine, and on the first of May, we were launched.

The Redlynch Players

1 May 1957 might be called an historic date in the village, with the founding of a drama group which still flourishes forty-three years on. Twenty-two of us met in St. Mary's Hall, little realising the impact we should make, the numbers to be involved or the countless people to be entertained over the years.

Len Bailey was the first chairman, Doris Maltby the secretary, my wife Peggie the treasurer and I was delighted to be asked to produce the first play. From the start, Doris Maltby put all her considerable energy into the project. She was the ideal chief executive with a flair for making contacts and persuading sponsors to support us; not only that but she soon became the best stage manager any producer could desire.

Richard Elkins and Wilf Russell made themselves indispensable by building sets and creating scenery and, before every production, could be heard hammering away for hours at evenings and weekends while John Coundley showed his skill with stage lighting. Somehow, Richard also found time to take part, to great effect, in many of those early productions.

At once, we found it impossible to use St. Mary's as a venue; the stage was cramped and would need much reconstruction and, unbelievably, there was a 'Tortoise' stove, a relic of the war years, down in the hall in front of the stage! So, it was decided to use St. Birinus' Hall until we could get things changed.

Our first production, in December, was a comedy, 'Easy Money', by Arnold Ridley. It was well received, and we were honoured by a visit and generous comments from Oliver Gordon, the director of Salisbury Arts Theatre. Vivienne Reardon produced the next play, 'Shop at Sly Corner', and by 1959, we were able to use St. Mary's Hall, which after much hard work, became our permanent 'home'. It was then that we effected our first scene change on stage, in a play called 'Poison Pen', by Richard Llewellyn.

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Those early years, in spite of the birth pangs, were most rewarding and I recall with great pleasure a short play by Philip Johnson, 'Dark Brown', which we presented at Bishop's School, Salisbury. We were then invited to perform it in a festival at Devizes; one of four groups across the county to be invited. Still in the days of capital punishment, it was based on the hangman, with Richard Elkins in the title role and a first rate, supporting cast.

It is impossible to name all who contributed in those first four years. Kathleen Courtney, my old friend, Hugh O'Neill, Sheila Wright,' John Hand, Rod Phillimore, Juan Lampard, Rosemary Jesser-Coope, Margaret and Pat Hickman, Len Bowles, Len and Barbara Bailey, Ray Read, Joan Jones and Brenda and Ethel Crouch all come to mind. When Peggie and I left Redlynch in 1961, Our greatest regret was parting from it all.

The energy and dedication Of Gladys Russell, Valerie and Richard Elkins, Beryl Edwards, Geoff Newman; all in at the beginning and still there; have kept the Players at the forefront of village life and deserve great credit. Hopefully, someone will write more about those later years.

A footnote: Our first annual subscription was 2/6 (12½p), admission was 1/- to 3/6 (5p to I7½p), and programmes were 6d (2½p)!

Stan Crouch May 2000

The Sunnysiders Back Row: Alan Russell, John Shergold, Herbie Gould, Glyn Hiscock, Billy (Cliff) Williams, Front Row: Pat Newman, Rita Mitchell, Pauline Green, Jackie Green, Marion Greer, Sylvie Tanner

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Cranborne Chase

We welcomed Penny May to our September meeting to speak about this vast subject area. Penny is a Blue Badge tourist guide and a member of Salisbury City Guides.

Thomas Hardy, in Tess of the d'Urbervilles, described Cranborne Chase as

a truly venerable tract of forest land, one of the few remaining Woodlands in England of undoubted primeval date, wherein Druidical mistletoe was still found on aged oaks, and where enormous yew-trees, not planted by the hand of man, grew as they had grown when they were pollarded for bows.

Cranborne Chase originally covered a huge area bounded in the north by the River Nadder, in the west by the River Stour, in the south by the River Allen and in the east by the River Avon. The whole area was about 250 - 300,000 acres and the perimeter was 80-90 miles. The Chase for centuries was preserved for kings and their relatives - William the Conquerer gave it to his queen and their son William Rufus gave it to a cousin. The title of Lord of the Chase passed to King John and Cranborne was the site of his hunting lodge. The Lord of the Chase did not own the land, but he owned the game in the area and protected the vegetation on which the deer browsed and found shelter.

Nobody was allowed to interfere with the vegetation without the consent of the Lord of the Chase even if they owned the trees or bushes in question. There were very strict penalties for those found harming the game in any way including heavy fines and physical punishment, e.g., loss of sight.

A toll called "cheminage" was levied on any form of transport over the Chase roads if this might be harmful to the deer when they were breeding. Until the early 1800s a pair of antlers was set up on Harnham Bridge to signify that Lord Rivers was exercising his right to charge 4 pence for each waggon and 1 penny for each packhorse using the bridge because of the disturbance they may cause the deer in the Chase. The antlers were in place for fifteen days either side of Midsummer Day during the "fence" month.

The Cecil family began a long association with the Chase when James I gave the title to Robert Cecil. He renovated Cranborne Manor and although Hatfield House later became the main residence the family now live at the manor and farm 7,000 acres in the area. Another well-known Chase family are the Pitt-Rivers. General Lane-Fox, who inherited the estate at Rushmore in the heart of the Chase, changed his name to Pitt-Rivers and is often known as the father of English Archaeology.

He developed the Larmer Tree Gardens at Tollard Royal which were a very popular venue for concerts etc. in the later part of the nineteenth century.

The gardens fell into disuse but have recently been restored and are well worth a visit.

The Chafin family lived at Chettle House and William Chafin, who hunted in the Chase for 70 years, is best known for his book "Anecdotes and History of Cranbourn Chase" written in 1818.

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He writes about "martin-cats" being nearly extinct and John Aubrey, writing a century, earlier refers to "marterns still remaining in Cranborne Chase". Another species lost to the Chase is the wild boar which was preserved by Chase law and may have survived into the sixteenth century.

William Chafin wrote about smuggling and poaching in the Chase which became a big issue in the eighteenth century. The poachers active in the Chase were good recruits for the smugglers looking for remote hiding places for their contraband. The best-known handler of contraband was Issac Gulliver who was born in 1745. His father was named as one of a gang of men who frequented the New Inn at Downton and had been involved in a disturbance with excisemen at Canford Cliffs Chine. Issac Gulliver was known as "the Gentle Smuggler" and was proud of the fact that no excise man had been killed by any of his men. However, by the end of the eighteenth century the campaign to remove Chase laws and get rid of the criminal element grew as the encounters between the two sides became more violent.

The Chase laws existed until 1830 when, after several challenges, they were eventually repealed and residents at last were legally able to fence their gardens and protect their crops from deer. This is a problem that anyone who gardens in Redlynch will sympathise with!

Based on Penny May's talk with additional information from "Cranborne Chase" by Desmond Hawkins.

Kate Crouch

Visit to Longford Castle in April

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The Parish Magazine

For the last seventeen years of the 19th and the first fifteen of the 20th century, the parish magazine, published in Downton, encompassed Morgan's Vale and Redlynch. For reasons which are not clear, Redlynch withdrew from the arrangement at the end of 1915 and thereafter only news of activities in Morgan's Vale was included.

Redlynch Church is fortunate in having copies (albeit incomplete) of the magazine for the period from 1896 to 1919. They provide a fascinating insight into life in the villages, not only within the church, but also in the wider community. They also include a record of baptisms, marriages and burials and, over the past two years, I have been working, intermittently, on an index. There is still some way to go to complete it.

The magazines extend over a momentous period in British and world history. The Boer War, Queen Victoria's jubilees and her death, the Edwardian era, the Coronation of George V and the First World War all left their mark on the villages. Locally, the opening of St. Birinus Church, the formation of the Parish Council, the installation of the organ and churchyard extensions at St. Mary's, the building and opening of St. Mary's Hall and a multitude of village activities are all reported on.

Extracts from some of these reports are included in the Review and they give a flavour of a different but still recognisable world - and human nature doesn't change!

Joe Millington

Extracts from the Parish Magazine

September 1908 Morgan’s Vale Night School

Classes will be opened at the School during the winter for instruction in Rural Arithmetic, Drawing and on Bees and Beekeeping, on Monday and Friday evenings, commencing on Monday 4 October.

November 1908 Lace Making

NOTICE: - Notice is hereby given, by request, to all women and girls living in the districts through which the magazine circulates, that anyone who would like to learn how to make Pillow-Lace and have not yet begun to learn, may have an opportunity of doing so during the winter months. They should send in their names and addresses to Mrs Robinson, at Redlynch House, or to Mrs Plumptre at Downton Vicarage. Provided that sufficient names are received in the various districts, a teacher will be sent to hold classes in each place.

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July 1911 Morgan’s Vale - Coronation

Excellent preparations had been made in the parish for the Celebration of the Coronation of HM King George V, but unfortunately the whole day was wet, which necessitated several alterations in the programme arranged. The Sports were postponed entirely and the Public Tea, which it was decided to hold in Barford Park at 4pm was held on the premises of Mr Hunt, at the tanyard at 6 o'clock.

The procession of decorated cars, trade cars, decorated bicycles etc, together with the Boy Scouts and schoolchildren did take place, and was a most creditable exhibition, but somewhat marred by the incessant rain.

February 1896 Morgan’s Vale - New Church

It is with feelings of deep thankfulness that we are now able to record the completion of the new church at Morgan's Vale, after four years of anxious and incessant labour to bring it to a successful issue. At Mrs Ferryman's death in December 1891, various unforeseen difficulties arose, as to the power of the Vicar and churchwardens to give the land as required by the will and other matters. On August 9th, 1892, the decision was given in our favour in the Chancery Division of the High Court. By December 1893, the Charity Commissioners had issued a scheme for 'Vesting lands for Church and School at Morgan's Vale.' In July 1894, the order was made by the Chancery Judge for the payment of the funds to the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, which was done by the executors in the following December. The foundation stone of the new church was solemnly laid by Lord Nelson on September 24th, 1894: but the Commissioners would not make any payments until 1st June 1895, when the Patronage agreement had been duly executed. The Vicar and churchwardens were, however, able to provide meanwhile the funds necessary for carrying on the building up to that date. The church was finally consecrated for divine service on Saturday, February 1st, 1896 by the Lord Bishop of the Diocese, under the name of St. Birinus.

June 1903 Redlynch – National School

The Report of HM Inspector, as follows, has been received from the Board of Education: -

Mixed School: - The Master's long illness, has naturally interfered with the working of the school, but allowance being made for this, it is doing very fairly, and progress has been made in some points. Arithmetic might be more intelligent and reading less hurried and indistinct. Some new maps and apparatus for drill are wanted.

Infant Class: - The class is a very fair one, and the instruction given is generally Suitable. Some methods might be improved The Higher Grant is awarded both for the mixed departments and infants.

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June 1905 MORGAN'S VALE - CHURCH LADS' BRIGADE

The handsome Challenge Shield so kindly presented by Mrs Morrison, for competition by the several Sections of the above Company and won on the first occasion by the Morgan's Vale Section, has been enclosed in a locked case, with a glass front, and has been placed in a conspicuous position in the schoolroom.

March 1907 Morgan's Vale – Church Lads Brigade

The annual Inter-Section Competition of the Downton Company for the Morrison Challenge Shield took place on Saturday, 23rd February, in the Vicarage grounds.

The Competition, consisting of certain physical exercises, both with and without arms, by six lads [was won by] Morgan's Vale. This makes the third year in succession that [they] have won the Shield, which now becomes their property.

July 1907 Morgan's Vale - Warning

Some badly disposed person or persons have lately barked a nice tree growing in the School yard. The mischief is so great that it will kill the tree. This notice is written to caution others against damaging any tree, hedge or fence of the Church or School. The Sergeant of the Police has been informed of what has happened, and anyone found doing wilful damage will surely get themselves into serious trouble.

The Church Lads' Brigade 18

The Society’s Year

September 1999

Our year opened with a talk on Cranborne Chase which has been written about by Kate Crouch.

October 1999

Our AGM was followed by a visit from John Chandler, Wilshire author and historian, who gave a fascinating talk about the History of Roads and Road Travel. Using slides to illustrate, he showed us early maps, manuscripts, archaeological remains and physical evidence that could give clues to the development of early roads and tracks. When all walked or travelled by horseback, it was those such as tradesmen, clergymen and the members of royal progressions who helped to establish particular routes. By the nineteenth century, stage and mail coaches meant that roads needed constant repair and turnpike trusts were established to maintain them.

The advent of railways saw a rapid decline in road use although local carriers remained important and cycling and motor transport developed rapidly at the beginning of the twentieth century.

November 1999

Stan Crouch talked about his memories of school at Redlynch where he started in 1922. There were three classes for the pupils who were aged from five to fourteen years. Although discipline was strict, time there was generally remembered with affection. Stan then talked about the Scout Troop which was revived by Bert Newman in 1929. The new hut at Toads Flat, now semi derelict at its site off Vale Road, was opened at this time. Mr Newman had been scoutmaster when the troop was first formed. in 1912 but it lapsed during the War when he served with the Royal Marines.

December 1999

This was a delightful evening. When Steve Jordan entertained us wIth folk songs, ballads, parlour songs and carols, all interspersed with snippets of information. We learnt that in Yorkshire, carols are still traditionally sung in pubs during December. The evening finished with a spirited rendering by the audience of The Twelve Days of Christmas followed by punch, and mincepies.

January 2000

Christopher Whalley, the Land Agent at Longford Castle told us something of the history and workings of the Longford Estate. The castle was originally built by Sir Thomas Gorges in the 16th century and substantial alterations were carried out by Wyatt in the 19th century.

The Radnor family are still very substantial landowners, but their holding has shrunk since the 1930s when their land. stretched from West Dean to Coombe Bissett. It is now about 15,500 acres and includes a fish farm, forestry undertakings, farming, shooting, a fishing syndicate and 192 houses and cottages. Recent falls in cattle prices led to the sale of the estate's dairy herd last year. Other activities

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on the estate are the production of Christmas trees and cricket bats. Redundant buildings are utilised for the production of cider, charcoal and hurdles; for carpentry and for storage including the trappings for the Downton Cuckoo fair. It is suggested that the building which serves as an estate office may originally have been a hunting lodge for the use of royal parties from Clerendon Palace.

February 2000

Blue Badge Guide, Kathy Quinn gave an interesting and informative talk about Salisbury. We learnt that the word Exchequer came from the checked cloth at Old Sarum on which was counted the King's money. The statue of Henry Fawcett in the Market Place and that of Brunel at Paddington are the only two in the country that have top hats. A railway used to run from Fisherton Street Station to the Market Hall (now the Library) and the stocks used to stand on the site of the Clock Tower in Fisherton Street. Finally, that the oldest street in Salisbury is probable 'New Street'!

March 2000

Dr Tom Beaumont James from King Alfred's College in Winchester talked to us on the subject of the recent discoveries at Clarendon. He has been researching there for twenty-five years and is the acknowledged expert on the site. We saw slides showing the 17th century granary which has now been proved to contain timbers dating from 1530 which may well come from a stand which was erected nearby to enable Henry VIII to watch the deer coursing.

Research continues on the Medieval Palace and it is planned that in two or three years’ time, there will be better access to the site with explanation and interpretation.

April 2000

This evening saw several of our own members presenting their family trees. Rod Phillimore has worked on his wife's branch of the Newman family, mainly using church records. Sam Whitmarsh has researched the Mills and Nicklen families, Lorraine Sainsbury the Futchers and Strides and Kate Crouch has a detailed tree of the Wort family. Tony Leat has been investigating the Blake family for over twenty years and has traced them back to the 16th century. Sue Buttimer finished the evening with an amusing account of the trials and tribulations of Irish Genealogy. All the speakers agreed that, once started on genealogy, it is very easy to become hooked and the hobby occupies endless hours - all of them made worthwhile by a 'new' discovery.

May 2000

Mrs Sybil Amor spoke about Tombstones and Epitaphs. She presented snippets from all areas of the country containing both humour and pathos. A small girl was eaten by a tiger at Malmesbury and at both Petworth and Gloucester there are tombstones to pets. Often monuments can be of great interest to family and local historians.

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June 2000

Members explored Lover whilst completing a 'slightly historical quiz' and returned to the Hall for refreshments and a chance to look at various records, documents and maps.

During the year we have had three 'Resources' evenings when source material has been available and two outings. In April, we followed up the talk by Christopher Whalley with a visit to Longford Castle where we were conducted around the family house and shown a vast array of works of art and paintings. We just had time for a walk around the gardens before the rain set in, but nothing could have spoiled such an interesting afternoon. In July, as an extra event, we were to have been guided around Fordingbridge by John Shering. The weather was against us, however, and we were instead entertained in the new museum, which is to open shortIy, where we heard about its origin and saw some of it exhibits. We hope to do the walk at a later date.

Thanks are due to Carolyn Birch and Kate Crouch, our Journal correspondents, for the information in this article.

Pat Millington.

Redlynch & District Local History Society Programme for 2000/2001

5 September 2000 The Roman Army in Wiltshire by John Smith 3 October 2000 AGM followed by History of St Mary’s Church by Pat Millington 7 November 2000 Time Team (Morgan’s Vale Hall) by Phil Harding 5 December 2000 A Personal View of the New Forest by Geoff Green 2 January 2001 The Poor Law and the Workhouse by Jane Steeds 6 February 2001 History of Butterflies by Michael Salmon 6 March 2001 Cinemas and the Theatre by Alan Richardson 3 April 2001 Members Evening tba 1 May 2001 tba 5 June 2001 tba

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Jogs the Memory

After a very interesting talk given on 1 May by Mrs Sybil Amor and entitled Tombstones and Epitaphs, I started thinking back to one or two that have stayed in my mind over the years. Here are just a few.

One of the very well-known ones in this area is Florence Nightingale of Embley Park. Buried at St Margaret's Church, East Wellow and marked with just a simple F.N., she was born on 12 May 1820 and died on 13 August 1910.

While on holiday in Scotland, we drove up into a lovely glen, Glen Esk. Here, in the midst of this wonderful solitude and scenery we came upon an epitaph. It reads as follows:

ROBERT FALCON SCOTT AND EDWARD ADRIAN WILSON who knew this Glen. They reached the South Pole on 17th January 1912 and died together on the Great Ice Barrier, March 1912. FOR THE JOURNEY IS DONE AND THE SUMMIT ATTAINED AND THE BARRIERS FALL.

Another Scottish holiday, this time in the Trossachs, found us staying near the church where Rob Roy and his mother lay buried.

My father lives in a little village near Newmarket, Suffolk. In the old burial ground of the church the 'Dripping Pan' headstone displays to this day its locally famous inscription. The humour of William Simmonds, who died in 1753, stands amongst the mostly forgotten memorials. A little, square pan is inlaid into the headstone behind a metal grating and the following words read.

Here lies my corpse who was the man. That lov'd a sop in, dripping pan. But now believe me I am dead. Now here the pan lies at my head. Still for sop to the last I cry'd. But could not eat and so I died. My neighbours they perhaps may laugh. Now they do read my epitaph'.

Also in this area, on the Bury St Edmunds road at a little crossroads about two miles from Newmarket, there is a gypsy boy's grave on the roadside. The locals say that, years ago, the boy was hung for stealing sheep. The grave is tended to this day. Small hazel sticks bent over into hoops surround the grave and, whenever you pass by, there are always fresh flowers although no-one ever sees anyone put them there. It is known locally as 'The Boy's Grave'.

In Orchard leigh Park, near Frome in Somerset where I used to stay with my grandparents, there is a church on an island in the lake. It is miles from anywhere and Sir Henry Newbolt, the poet, lies buried there.

So, there could be someone famous buried in almost any churchyard that you care to wonder through.

Heather Scott.

Apart from Florence Nightingale, and Arthur Conan Doyle at Minstead, do we have any other 'famous' graves in our area? Ed.

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Redlynch & District Local History Society

All the following books are available through the Society. The necessary Postage will be added to your order.

Redlynch Review 1997 (photocopy) £0.50 Redlynch Review 1998 £1.00 Redlynch Review 1999 (photocopy) £0.50 Redlynch Review 2000 £2.00

The above are our Society Journals and contain a mixture of short articles, reports of meetings and snippets from the past with some photographs.

Redlynch 2000 A Village directory, covering Hamptworth, Lover, Morgan's Vale, Nomansland. Redlynch and Woodfalls and produced for the Millennium. Proceeds go to The Village Millennium Fund. Lists societies, organisations, schools Churches etc commercial undertakings and contains advertisements. A good picture of Redlynch in the year 2000 with some history included. 2000 paperb 74pp Now £2.00

Redlynch Footpath Guide An updated version of a comprehensive guide to footpaths, bridle ways and byways within the parish. By Jenny Thompson 1999 paperb 32p Now £2.00

The Redlynch Book A short history of the Parish with reminiscences of earlier times and comments by the village children on what they like most Illustrated. Editor Rosalind Pasmore 1989 paperb 6Opp Now £2.00

Forest Boy An account of her father's life as a boy growing up in the New Forest. By local author Pamela Henderson 1989 hardb 491 pp Now £6.00

The Vale of Sparrows An account of the author's life in Morgan's Vale during the 1940's. Recently produced as a play by the local Drama Society. By Pam Henderson 1994 paperb 52pp Now £5.00

The Vale Glimpses Me and my Brother All slim books of poetry by Pam Henderson now £1.00 each

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The History of Gerald Goff An illustrated account of the village of Hale written at the end of the 19th century. With additional notes by the Editor, Rosalind Pasmore. With estate map. 1999 paperb 110pp £8.95

New Forest Brand Book & Guide to Forest Atlases Lists forest livestock brands and common rights By Anthony Pasmore, Verderer of the New Forest 1996 paperb 41pp now £3.00

Thirty-Five Years in the New Forest A reprint of a book written in 1915 recording life in the New Forest during the previous thirty-live years, Gerald Lascelles was Deputy Surveyor of the New Forest. By Gerald Lascelles 1986 paperb 139pp £9.50

New Forest Explosives An account of the Schultze Gunpowder Company of Eyeworth and The Armaments Research Department at Millersford. Illustrated Editor, Anthony Pasmore 1993 paperb 34pp £3.00

Book Review

The start of the new millennium has seen the publication of several books of particular interest to anyone keen on the history of this area. Downton 7000 years of an English Village, by David Waymouth, is published by Downton Millennial Book Fund. Price £7.95.

This colourful and lively book, as its title suggests, covers an enormous period and inevitably does not give a great deal of detail of some subjects. I was disappointed to see only a very brief paragraph about Downton Engineering and Daniel and Bunty Richmond who really put Downton on the map in the 1960s with their mini tuning business. In 183 pages we move from the end of the Ice Age to the present day, so I suppose such omissions are inevitable.

Throughout the book passages of text are interspersed with photographs and excellent illustrations by Jane Ancona. This results in a book which is lively but not easy to read straight through - I found myself dipping into it rather than reading from cover to cover.

The book provides a good overview of the history of Downton and is especially useful for answering the "what happened in Downton during the Civil War?" type of question. Overall, this is an interesting book which is well worth buying.

Kate Crouch.

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