APPETITE for adventure

As consumer interest rises, Austria looks set to reveal the full extent of its diverse offering, from the broadening appeal of its flagship Grüner Veltliner to the flourishing of its lesser known varieties and styles. Gabriel Stone reports on the latest db roundtable tasting

IT’S LITTLE more than a decade since the only style finding favour: while In a bid to shine a light on these hidden ’s modern incarnation Austrian exports to this market depths, a panel of UK Austrian wine emerged on an unsuspecting UK market. enjoyed 21% value growth, there was also a specialists gathered in London for a Armed with relatively small and expensive 52% surge in reds, an area that the country discussion, organised by the drinks business , quantities of a flagship variety that hardly has been seeking to promote more that sought to assess the character of trips off the average Anglophone tongue, vigorously in recent years. made from some of the country’s lesser the country’s success has been remarkable. Indeed, while there’s little doubt Austria known white grape varieties and consider Today Grüner Veltliner can be found will continue to support its ever reliable their appeal within the UK market. on any wine list with a modicum of Grüner Veltliner, the time has come to Setting the scene, AWMB managing aspiration and despite prices and volumes show the outside world that it has so director Willi Klinger explained why that largely keep Austrian wine out of the much more to offer. , invariably demonstrating this broader repertoire is supermarket arena, sales are not just dry, already attracts attention from not just desirable but a crucial part of buoyant, they’re booming. the cognoscenti, but with 22 white Austria’s current strategy. Export MAT figures from Statistik Austria varieties alone, including a cluster of “Grüner Veltliner is one-third of our for the first 10 months of last year show intriguing indigenous examples, it growing area and we want it to be our total volumes up by 37% and a 12.3% value doesn’t take much digging to realise we’ve flagship, but we don’t want to fall into the uplift. Zooming in on the UK, it's barely scratched the surface of what trap of Shiraz in Australia where a country rewarding to note that Grüner is clearly not Austria has to offer. is only associated with one grape,” he said.

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“We have so many varieties and regions not the button to press; the Möet button is which are not about Grüner Veltliner.” not the button to press; you want to talk to Feature findings Names aside, there’s little danger of especially, those people who confusing Austria and Australia, not least are looking for things with a sense of origin > Though prices and volumes keep in the shape of their respective wine and narrative.” Austrian wine’s supermarket industries. If anything, Austria is on a Next up came a Gelber Muskateller, presence low, sales of Austrian wine mission to be seen as less highbrow and which enjoys a healthy following in its in general are booming – particularly more accessible in its UK positioning, but domestic market, or at least enough to those of Grüner Veltliner. that upmarket image means that the support its 530-hectare coverage. For wine > Interest in other varieties is rising too. country’s existing audience comprises the writer and Wine Enthusiast’s Austrian critic, Dry Austrian Riesling has a strong sort of wine drinker who doesn’t mind – Anne Krebiehl MW, this is very much a following, but there are, for example, even relishes – being tempted off-piste. grape for pleasure rather than posers. 22 other white varieties, including Supporting this theory was Chris Describing it as “very fragrant and light- several natives, which make it clear Sherwood, general manager of Bottle footed”, she maintained: “It’s not a wine that we have barely scratched the Apostle, which exemplifies the UK’s bright you would lay down; for me it is about surface of what Austria has to offer. new generation of independent retailer. drinkability and joy.” > The region has emerged as one “Austria has been quite important for us While the structure of the tasting lent of the most talked-about Austrian since we started six years ago,” he reports. itself to a focus, Doug Wregg, , particularly in terms of its “It can be responsible for 10% of our sales director of Les Caves de Pyrène, used this suitability for . when we want it to be. We find very high wine as an opportunity to highlight the > Lesser known varieties such as Roter quality-focused people are interested in it.” importance of a broader context. Veltliner, and Rotgipfler, “People are too hung up on varieties as while not large-volume, hold much something that defines the wine promise in terms of statisfying rather than ,” he remarked, consumer demand and adding colour noting the Styrian region’s ability to Austrian wine’s image. ‘We don’t want to fall into the to produce “some pretty stunning > Pluralism of choice is a key factor in trap of Shiraz in Australia where examples” from this grape. “Look the ascendancy of Austrian wine and at the density, structure and as the wine world continues to a country is only associated with texture of this wine,” Wregg diversify, so the country’s wine one grape. We have so many continued. “What lifts it is the offering should enjoy greater aromas but the whole is appreciation among consumers. varieties and regions which are more important than the Muscat.” not about Grüner Veltliner’ Again, Moss gave the appeal of this style a more commercial slant. “A lot of people take their first few unable to capitalise on the Grüner steps into wine and then have the movement. However, Stephen Brook, SEKT APPEAL money to spend a little bit more, but they’re author of The Wines of Austria , highlighted The first example of Austria’s wider skill not necessarily going to like the very dry, this area as being worthy of greater set covered two major bases in one: linear styles we might want them to drink,” attention. “Several tastings have already , a significant part of the UK he said. “This is the kind of wine that can shown that Styria is one of the great market that has been thrown wide open by help them to trade up.” Sauvignon Blanc terroirs,” he observed. the recent Prosecco boom, and Two grapes not represented at the tasting, Wregg echoed this enthusiasm, saying: – or Morillon as it is often known here – an but which account for a significant “The soils and climate in Styria almost often divisive but nevertheless easily proportion of Austria’s output are make Sauvignon Blanc a noble grape, marketable variety that is inextricably and Sauvignon Blanc. While which it isn’t in other places.” While linked some of the world’s great wines. the former often appears as a dry or even there was some concern about Austria’s Sherwood highlighted the challenge faced sparkling expression, Klinger pointed to ability to compete with good Loire by any ambitious sparkling wine. “The Welschriesling’s identity, Sauvignon Blanc at a keener price, Krebiehl value is absolutely fine because it’s very commenting: “Its highest expression in my recommended as a closer stylistic well made, but for the British consumer it’s opinion is as a sweet wine.” parallel. On a similar note, Moss suggested: very difficult when you’re on that borderline with ,” he said. CAUSING A STYRIA Weighing up this problem of As for international favourite Sauvignon marketability rather than quality, Anthony Blanc, this is a particular specialism of Moss MW of the Wine & Spirit Education Styria, a major wine region which despite Trust suggested: “The Prosecco button is its respectable 4,240ha has been largely >

71 where plantings now stand at around 652ha. With just a handful of producers still championing this grape, pinpointing is a challenge. “It’s a variety you can make in two different styles, structured or lighter,” explained Savage, adding: “It would be a shame if you lost it.” One real Austrian speciality is that Viennese staple, Gemischter Satz. This traditional field blend had suffered from the modern monoculture mindset and found itself reduced to a heuriger staple, until leading Viennese producers over the last 15 years came up with high quality examples. As a consequence, the field blend idea received valuable support in 2013 when its most famous incarnation, Wiener Gemischter Satz – made from vines grown within the Austrian capital’s city limits – was awarded Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) protection. Klinger confirmed that this step has already seen quality improve in line with tighter grape sourcing and legal requirements, encouraging producers to plant more according to this traditional system. For the panel, this concept of a field blend “If people are looking for interesting whites For Mark Savage MW, director of presented a positive talking point rather they can put in their cellar but that won’t Gloucestershire merchant Savage Selection, than a marketing hurdle. “We sell it as be too collectible with high prices like it’s the quality on offer here that is ‘Austria in a glass’ and not as any Burgundy then Styria is the place to go.” particularly compelling. “If people ask me particular variety,” said Savage of his Neatly developing this fine wine theme where the best dry Riesling in the world approach to Gemischter Satz. However, he comes from I say Austria,” he said. noted: “It’s important for the consumer to What’s more, added Brook: realise that it’s not just a dustbin blend.” ‘If people are looking for “There’s a stylistic coherence that In case there was anyone at the table who you don’t get from Alsace.” felt that Grüner Veltliner had no surprises interesting whites they can While Germany is also liable to to offer, an expression made in Georgian put in their cellar but that leave consumers uncertain of the qvevri and deploying an almost reckless sugar level in their bottle, they can lack of intervention made a bold won’t be too collectible with open an Austrian Riesling in the impression with its exaggerated white almost certain knowledge that it pepper character. high prices like Burgundy then will be dry. Such ability to focus, It was followed by a second wine that Styria is the place to go’ noted Krebiehl, is thanks to the illustrated Austria’s active place in the simple fact that “Austria, for all its movement: an ‘orange’ Roter diversity, is still a far smaller, more Veltliner. Rather confusingly, this variety is compact area”. neither red nor any genetic relation of came a Riesling – Rhine rather than Welsch Grüner Veltliner, and with fewer than – which despite accounting for little over NATIVE CHARMS 4% of the country’s area is Returning to less familiar territory, the sufficiently prominent to make Austria the panel sampled some Neuburger, an world’s sixth-largest producer of this indigenous variety that has suffered steep indisputably noble variety. decline over last 20 years to the point

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The panel

200ha planted is considerably rarer. Such sparsity is no indictment of quality, however, with Wregg praising for its “fantastic acid”. It doesn’t get much more esoteric than orange Roter Veltliner, but there was a L-R: Peter Honegger, director, Newcomer Wines, Doug Wregg, director, Les Caves de strong feeling from several panellists that Pyrène, Chris Sherwood, general manager, Bottle Apostle, Mark Savage MW, director, Austria should embrace such inimitable Savage Selection, Gabriel Stone, British Bottle Company (chair), Willi Klinger, managing offerings. Peter Honegger, who founded director, Austrian Wine Marketing Board, Stephen Brook, author, The Wines of Austria, the exclusively Austria-focused merchant Anne Krebiehl MW, journalist and Austrian critic for Wine Enthusiast, Marie-Sophie Newcomer Wines two years ago and now Hartl, export marketing manager, Austrian Wine Marketing Board, Antony Moss MW represents 18 growers, presented this director of strategic planning, Wine & Spirit Education Trust ability to surprise as a real asset. “If you look at restaurants around the world at the moment, what are they listing from Austria? Something a bit different,” technology, so much more is possible.” he remarked, highlighting the particular While Zierfandler is unlikely to make its The wines thirst for novelty among New York supermarket debut anytime soon, there is a sommeliers and their clientele. “It’s not big place for this type of wine that simply > Ebner-Ebenauer, Sekt ‘Blanc de volume-wise, but for the image of Austria wouldn’t have existed when Austria Blancs’ 2008, it is a big influence,” Honegger maintained. reintroduced itself to the UK market at the > Erich & Walter Polz, Gelber turn of the millennium. “We’ve noticed a Muskateller 2012, Südsteiermark THIRST FOR NOVELTY shift in the last two years of what we can > Wohlmuth, Riesling 2014, It was a sentiment that set the tone nicely sell,” reported Sherwood. “Even things like Südsteiermark for the Zierfandler and Rotgipfler Riesling that five years ago wouldn’t sell > Tinhof, Neuburger 2012, Burgenland expressions that followed. Due to their by itself, now I’m amazed, it’s just walking > Wieninger, Wiener Gemischter Satz tendency to ripen unevenly and out of the store.” 2013, susceptibility to botrytis, both varieties However, he said: “It’s easier for us to say > Bernhard Ott, Grüner Veltliner today struggle to claim even 100ha of as we’re in London so incomes are high ‘Qvevre’ 2013, Wagram vineyard area and their presence is almost and we can sell a lot of interesting things > Eschenhof Holzer, Roter Veltliner entirely restricted to the Thermenregion, a because of that.” Reassuringly however, 2013, Wagram corner of Niederösterriech to the south of there are signs that the spirit of curiosity is > Heinrich Hartl III, Rotgipfler 2013, Vienna that is characterised by hot springs spreading outside the M25. “There’s an Thermenregion and warm summer conditions. However, almost unquenchable thirst among > Johanneshof Reinisch, Zierfandler for the thrill-seeking , this very consumers for the esoteric,” confirmed 2014, Thermenregion rarity can be intrinsic to the wine’s appeal. Savage, noting a concern among some of > Neumeister, Roter Traminer, 2014 As the tasting closed with a rich, spicy his customers that Grüner Veltliner, far Südoststeiermark Roter Traminer from the volcanic from being niche, is now becoming rather Südoststeiermark, Krebiehl drew a close off-puttingly ubiquitous. parallel between the diversification of the Let’s not get too carried away here: the wine world and radical changes within the wine industry is not about to abandon the quirkier wines provide the perfect television and music industries in the last familiar varieties, brands and flavours that conversation starter. db 20 years. “Now there are far more channels, have enabled it to stake a place on the there’s a pluralism of choice,” she weekly shopping list. That said, as remarked, “and I’m glad for the consumer the world moves ever faster, for those – so much more is available and because of who want to stop and talk, Austria’s

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