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organTEACHING YOUR M TO DRIVE TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 4

or modify the equipment you already have. TABLE OF CONTENTS: Equipment failure can put you in harm’s way 2 ...... Introduction without warning and in an instant can ruin 3 ...... Your Horse your horse for . 4 ...... Your Equipment Training your horse to safely pull a vehi- cle rarely can be done single-handedly. 8 ...... Ground Work Professional trainers have qualified assis- 10 ...... Lungeing tants to help them.This does not mean the 11 ...... Ground Driving amateur horseman cannot start his or her 14 ...... Pulling a Drag own driving horse, but safety for your horse, yourself, and your assistants always 15 ...... Hooking Your Horse must be the prime consideration.There will 17 ...... Driving be steps along the way that will require you 18 ...... Finishing to have assistance from at least one other person, sometimes two. These people Yes, you can start your driving horse at should be familiar with handling , and home. It makes little difference whether preferably, with the process. your horse will ultimately be a park horse, You should seriously consider paying for horse, pleasure show horse, or a professional help at some of these critical horse for you to simply enjoy driving at junctures if you have the slightest hesitation home. The basic approach is the same or concern about how to proceed. It does regardless of the discipline.There are a few take a certain temperament to train horses caveats for starting your own horse, how- well. People who are calm, deliberate, and ever. attentive usually are more successful than One careless mistake can forever affect those who are excited, unfocused, etc. your horse’s attitude about learning and his Some people lack the patience and confi- ability to learn well. While training your dence necessary to train horses well. Some horse should be a fun and rewarding are simply scared. Carefully assess whether process, you must be willing to take the you have the qualities necessary to increase educational process seriously to be fair to the chances of a good outcome. your horse. He did not ask you to train Preparing horses for driving must be him. Heike Bean, in her valuable book, done in a safe environment. If your quarters , put it this way: are cramped, cluttered, full of noise and “What does it feel like to be this animal other distractions, your outcome will prob- of flight, who must submit to being ably suffer. strapped to a carriage and controlled Perhaps the best method of starting your through a piece of metal in his mouth, doing driving horse at home is to work with a things and going places he would never professional trainer. This may sound odd dream of doing on his own?” considering the topic at hand, but a profes- Obviously, the handling a young horse sional can be invaluable at guiding you receives from birth can play a significant through the steps involved. It is not advis- role in how well the learning process is able to start your driving horse by yourself accepted in the future. if you have never driven.Take some lessons Professional trainers have facilities and to gain an understanding of what is involved. equipment specifically designed for the pur- There is a lot of involved preparation pose of training horses which minimizes required to produce a result which, when the risks involved.That does not mean you finished, looks fairly simple and straightfor- will need specialized equipment to train ward. Locate a trainer who will bring you your horse at home. Training equipment along through the training process before need not be expensive, but it must be well you try it on your own.Attending appropri- made, of proper fit and design, and in good ate clinics given by professional trainers is condition. There may even be ways to use another excellent way to learn how to edu- ~ 2 ~ TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 5

cate your horse. The American Morgan assessment of the level of training and his Horse Association maintains a Professional anxiety level. Committee that provides a list of clinicians Size will not be much of a factor until the across the country.Books and articles, while time comes to more precisely determine quite helpful, pale in comparison to real life your horse’s job. There are some jobs experiences.This article is only meant to be where size does matter. Pulling larger vehi- a guide. It is by no means a definitive manu- cles, for instance, is easier for large horses al on the subject. or pairs. One of the best-kept secrets in the driving world is the use of smaller Morgans YOUR HORSE (14.2 hands and under) in the divi- Age will be a factor. Most Morgans are not sions of carriage driving competitions, both trained to drive before they are at least two Events and Pleasure years old. Some preparatory work is usual- Competitions. The driving heritage of the ly done before they reach two and some Morgan breed serves them quite well in are even hooked earlier, but serious driving competition against the pony breeds. Size mileage should not be asked of a Morgan also may matter if your equipment does not under two or even three years old.You can match your horse well. Some vehicles sim- accomplish many elementary lessons with ply may be too heavy for younger, unfit, or your horse when he is very young. smaller horses. Weanlings can be taught to . Many six month olds can start to learn basic verbal commands on a leadline. During the early grooming lessons, your horse can have his handled in preparation for a . On the other hand, much damage can be done by doing strenuous exercises too early or too often. Great care is necessary with these young horses because not only are you introducing physical stresses on young, developing bodies, you also are The harness is set up to accustom the horse introducing them to issues of trust for the to wearing a harness. Note the connection very first time. from the to the , using a Making the transition from turning a straight side . This set up would be used schooled into a driving horse while leading, lungeing, or ground driving your is generally easier and quicker than starting horse. from scratch with a youngster. A trained riding horse has some understanding of the Mentality, maturity, and mental aptitude training process; that is, he knows the dif- play a part in how you proceed with your ference between the classroom and recess. horse. Horses, like people, learn at different One caveat: Be extremely mindful of the rates and sometimes in different ways. If fact that you may not fully know what your horse’s mind is immature, the lessons mishaps might have occurred in the early may have to be quite brief. This enables years of older horses.They may be perfect- your horse to stay focused. Longer lessons ly wonderful riding horses, but could have may be counterproductive. If your horse is had poor experiences with driving. These high strung, the process may take great tact horses can be dangerous for even a profes- to accomplish and may in fact be better left sional trainer and they always are danger- for someone with more experience. ous for the unprepared. Sometimes high-strung horses are not so Never hook any horse to a vehicle unless much the product of genetics as environ- you are certain he has a good history as a ment. A change in your horse’s feed or driving horse. If you are unsure, start with a turnout time may make a huge difference in review of the basics in order to make an his energy and anxiety levels and thus his ~ 3 ~ TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 6

trainability.There is plenty of time to con- the varied terrain found on longer cross- centrate and focus your horse’s physical country drives. For use outside the show energy after he is trained. For starting your ring, the harness should be a mini- horse in harness, however, you need as mum of three inches wide. It is imperative much mental cooperation as your horse that there be no pressure from the saddle can give you. Anything that takes away from directly on the top of the horse’s spine. that should be examined and changed if Most have a tree and care should possible.Are there Morgans who just don’t be taken to make sure the tree does not have the aptitude to be driving horses? interfere with the spine or cause undue Probably, but in our breed it has been my pressure on the muscle groups behind the experience these horses are few and far withers.This pressure is a common fault of between and almost always poor previous many Amish-made harnesses coming right handling has been the real cause for this from the manufacturer and usually can be shortcoming. remedied by taking the saddle apart and reforming the tree.The stuffing or padding YOUR EQUIPMENT of the saddle should be wide.Too often this The harness used to start your driving padding is narrow and hard, causing dis- horse does not need to be a special train- comfort or pain. Supplemental padding can ing harness, although there are some fea- be useful as long as it is well fitted and well tures with specialized equipment that can constructed. A well-made harness should make the job easier and safer.The “quick- not require additional padding. hitch” style training harness is ideal for The saddle should be placed well behind starting driving horses since it can be put the withers.This is probably the most com- on and removed quickly with a minimum of mon misadjustment seen on harness hors- effort. It also is easily adapted for the dif- es. As a general rule of thumb, place the ferent stages of the training process, from forward edge of the saddle behind the last accustoming your horse to the feel of a hairs of the mane by the width of your harness, to lungeing, to ground driving, to hand. It may look too far back when your actually being hooked and driven. Most horse is first harnessed, but the saddle will quick-hitch style harnesses also are quite reposition itself forward a once your suitable for at home. Of horse is being worked. particular note is the safety feature of using The used in the initial phases for traces that snap on in a single, quick, easy starting horses can be an open bridle or motion to the breastplate at your horse’s one with blinders. Professional trainers shoulder. This allows you to remain near have their preference on that score. Some your horse’s head for more control and is use an open bridle up to the hooking stage especially handy when you find yourself and then use a blinker hood or switch to a working your horse alone or with horses blindered bridle. Some start right away who are a little nervous. with a closed bridle and some use an open Harness fit and adjustment are critical to bridle for the entire process, even while the comfort of your horse. Poorly adjusted driving. To some extent you will have to harnesses and are a major cause of assess how your horse reacts to different poor results. Any pain or discomfort types of bridling and how it reacts in gen- caused in the training process may be eral to the process and the environment remembered by your horse for years to around him. Some horses are too distract- come, even after the pain and physical ed by the wide view of an open bridle. injury are gone. Of particular importance is Others feel anxious and claustrophobic in the width of the harness saddle, its overall a closed bridle. Personally, I start the basics construction, and its placement on your with an open bridle and drive hooked to a horse. Narrow saddles are fine for the vehicle with a blindered bridle. I’ve never brief workouts in a well conditioned, level gotten in trouble with a horse using a show ring, but are unsuitable for work on blindered bridle. ~ 4 ~ TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 7

rein. Second, many accidents actually are caused by the discomfort and subsequent anxiety created by the use of poorly adjusted check .

RUNNING MARTINGALES Running martingales are used sometimes for driving horses. They are used on show horses in the Morgan breed, but rarely are used on carriage horses.They are not nec- essary for starting your driving horse. The is a specialized device that should be introduced later in the process and only if required for the job your horse will be asked to do. Some feel martingales are a safety device on the theory they will supply the leverage and rein direction nec- essary to help prevent your horse from raising up above the bit. This is true, but there will be another approach explained later to deal with this. If your horse is Examples of simple bits useful for starting taught to carry himself properly, he will find driving horses. it terribly inefficient to raise above the bit, A — Half-Cheek Snaffle thus making his job more difficult. Much B — Large Ring Tube Cheek Snaffle damage can be done with the improper use C — Half-Cheek Mullen of the running martingale. It can take quite D — French Link Snaffle a long time to re-school a horse to perform in self carriage once he has learned to rely CHECK REINS on the running martingale for balance. As Check reins have been a great source of with the check rein, the running martingale controversy since they were introduced in can be gradually introduced as your horse the 1800s. Whether you use them or not progresses toward the use for which you will largely depend on the final job your are training. horse will be asked to do. Overchecks and The bits used with harness horses in the side checks are considered proper equip- early stages need not be particularly differ- ment in park and pleasure driving classes in ent in design than riding bits. It is a myth the show ring. classes require a that a “driving” bit must be used for driving check rein. Check reins of any kind are (except as required by certain competition generally not used in carriage driving com- specifications). First and foremost is always petitions (in some competitions they are the consideration of comfort for your illegal). For starting your harness horse, I horse. Use the bits that are comfortable for recommend not using a check at all. Once your horse and which he responds to well. your horse is ground driving well, a check Then worry about whether they are tradi- rein can be introduced if the job you will tional driving bits. Ultimately, you may want be asking your horse to do requires one. to use a design considered proper for the Some consider a check rein a safety type of driving you will do, but in the begin- device on the theory that if your horse ning that is not your concern. Remember cannot lower his head, he cannot buck or that we are first looking for cooperation kick. There are two problems with that from your horse and that mouth discom- theory. In practice, when a horse is scared fort is a primary source of poor coopera- enough to buck or kick, the very first piece tion.The mouth is of particular importance of equipment that will break is the check to the harness horse since it is your princi- ~ 5 ~ TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 8

pal connection to your horse.You have no best insurance your money can buy. seat or legs with which to influence his behavior or performance. LEADLINES Many people mistakenly feel that driving Leadlines will be part of your training means using a stronger bit since the driver equipment at times.They should be longer does not have as much control of his horse rather than shorter. They should have as a rider. It would help to remember that secure, sturdy snaps that are easy to work horses do not stop with their mouth.They with one hand. Nylon should be avoided stop with their brain. If your horse is because if your horse should suddenly pull scared enough to consider running away away, severe injuries to hand and skin can with you, it is unlikely that the metal in his result. Cotton leads work very well and are mouth will stop him regardless of its easy to grip securely. It also is wise for you mechanical power.The increased pain in his and your assistants to wear gloves to pro- mouth from such mechanics may in fact tect your skin. Make sure they are thin make matters far worse. Driving horses enough to enable you to easily work with can and should be just as light and respon- your buckles and snaps. sive in the hand as any riding horse. Respect the power of training them to be LONG LINES responsive and do not abuse their mouth Long lines are used to drive your horse out of the misguided notion that stronger from the ground. Regular driving reins are bits are somehow safer. too short and usually too heavy to make good ground driving lines. Professional KICKING STRAPS trainers have their preferences for long Kicking straps are the driving equivalent of lines. Some prefer leather, nylon, or cotton the riding helmet. I use one at home with rope, cotton or synthetic webbing, or a every horse on every drive, no matter how combination of webbing and rope. They experienced or inexperienced the horse is. should be long enough to allow you to They have saved my life several times. A work your horse in at least a 50 foot diam- kicking strap can limit the potential damage eter circle and light enough to allow you to from your horse if he thinks that kicking up carry them coiled up for close work with or will solve his problems. It can your horse from the side or behind without prevent a kicking fit from becoming a seri- becoming too bulky. ous accident by not allowing your horse to get one leg over the shaft. Usually when a BREECHING horse engages the limitation of the kicking Breeching is used on carriage horses as the strap, he stops trying the evasive escape mechanism by which the horse can hold route of kicking or bucking and will move back the weight of the vehicle on slopes forward.The action of the kicking strap can and in downward transitions. Some horses buy you enough time to settle your horse. initially object to the pressure of breeching The strap runs from one shaft, up over or even to its feel on their rump, but most the rump of the horse, just in front of the adapt to it readily if properly introduced. It base of the tail, and then down to the shaft is advisable that breeching pressure be on the other side. It should be adjusted introduced early in the training process and loosely enough not to engage at all when certainly before your horse is hooked to a your horse is walking, trotting, or cantering vehicle. Breeching is not used in the Morgan normally. It should be tight enough to limit show ring for park or pleasure driving, but the raising of the hind end should your it is necessary equipment if you will be driv- horse begin to lift it to kick out or up.The ing your horse outside of the ring over var- strap can be made of stout leather or ied terrain or in carriage competition. Do nylon, or even a heavy lead rope can be not expect any horse to automatically pressed into service. Harness makers can know what breeching is or to readily accept make one for a few dollars. It could be the it without some training. ~ 6 ~ TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 9

DRAGS on each end facing the same direction for Drags are useful, if not necessary, equip- your traces and one in the middle facing ment for starting your driving horse.A drag the opposite direction to hook up your is merely something your horse can pull drag. Eye bolts are much more secure than behind him on the ground with the traces screw eyes.The advantage of this arrange- while you drive him from the ground with ment is that the traces remain spread the long lines. A drag helps accustom your width of the single tree rather than coming horse to the feel of pulling something with to a single point behind your horse. This his chest, the feel of the traces on his sides helps to prevent your horse from becom- and legs, and the sounds coming from ing tangled in the traces while working, behind him. especially in a circle. There are many set ups one can use for With this type of drag, you can set up a drag. Using anything that is too heavy runs your traces to remain attached to the drag the risk of over facing and frustrating your and to snap on the breastplate when you horse. It also is not advisable to use any- hook up your horse. This allows you to thing that bounces too easily. Some consid- remain in proximity of the head of your eration should be given to the sound the horse, which will give you more control drag makes. Steady, lower frequency noise than if you move out behind him. is better than a high frequency, excitable Some trainers will make up a drag that noise. Some use an old tire or a piece of has shafts and a single tree. It is, in essence, lumber. Care should be taken when using a a with no wheels.The shafts are placed tire that you attach it in a way which limits through the tugs and your horse is hitched its ability to bounce up on edge and begin as if it were hooked to a vehicle while one to roll. Two U-bolts placed about 90 end of the drag simply is dragged across degrees apart on a tire work well as attach- the ground.There are disadvantages to this ments for your traces. I use a section of arrangement. It is relatively easy for an sturdy metal wire grating which lies flat all excited horse to get a leg over one of the the time, is not too heavy nor too light, and shafts since they are quite low relative to is safe for my horses if they should act up his hind legs.A horse cannot back up with and get tangled in the traces.They will not this drag set up.That may cause some con- get hurt stepping on it.The screen arrange- sternation for your horse and it may cause ment spreads the traces wider than the some difficulty for you if you find your width of the horse and helps keep the horse in a position where backing up could horse from stepping on or over the traces. get him out of trouble. Of course, the ben- It has the added benefit of grooming my efit is your horse can get the feel of the work area! shafts and become accustomed to the Set up a breastplate with traces long process of being hooked and unhooked enough to reach the ground several feet without putting a more expensive vehicle behind your horse. Regular driving traces at risk. will be too short.You can easily add length Some drags are designed to have addi- to regular traces using stout cord of some tional weight attached once your horse kind. Make sure it is strong enough not to understands the basics.This may accustom break too easily while you are working. him to having more pull on his breastplate Baling twine is not sufficient.Attach sturdy prior to actually pulling the load of a vehi- snaps of a design that will not easily come cle.This may be a valid concern if the first undone by themselves to the end of your vehicle to which you hook your horse will extensions so that you can quickly be somewhat heavy.There are trainers who attach and detach your drag. Some trainers use heavier drag to work with fully trained attach the end of their traces to a single horses as a strengthening exercise.You may tree and then attach their drag to the sin- want to consider that possibility as you gle tree.You can make your own single tree construct your drag; however, most out of a solid 2 x 4 and a few eye bolts: one Morgans are willing pullers and the extra ~ 7 ~ TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 10

weight issue is not usually important when also work well with the one disadvantage starting your harness horse. that some can be a little difficult to get in The vehicle to which your horse is ini- and out of. Generally, Meadowbrooks are tially hooked must first of all be safe. It on the heavy side for starting a horse the absolutely must be structurally sound. It size of most Morgans. However, once your should be well lubricated so it rolls freely horse is accustomed to pulling and is fit, a and does not squeak as you work. It should heavier vehicle can be introduced. It’s prob- be easy for you to get in and out of for your ably wise not to use your best show vehi- own safety should your horse suddenly cles for starting your horse. decide to move off while you are climbing in.You should have good vision while seat- GROUND WORK ed, meaning you should be seated high Leading your horse is the first step in the enough to see well in front of your horse process of training your youngster to drive. without contorting your body. The vehicle Do not underestimate the effect of simply should fit your horse.The shaft tips should leading your horse around your property come to the point of the shoulder while or taking him for walks in the countryside. the rear end of your horse is at least 18 This is the beginning of your schooling rela- inches from the front of the basket. Some tionship with your horse. Much of the basis breaking have longer shafts that will for all the education to follow begins at this place your horse well away from the basket point. It can be easily spoiled. This process and seat. This design will usually prevent a should begin in a confined space until your green horse from reaching any part of the horse understands basic commands. Of vehicle should he decide to kick backwards. particular importance is the command to When your horse is able to strike some- halt and stand still. Practice the command thing, he often will kick immediately a sec- “Whoa” until your horse is absolutely reli- ond, third, or fourth time. He will be more able. It will help you immensely throughout likely to stop if, when he kicks, he does not your entire relationship with your driving connect with anything. The disadvantage is horse.You cannot physically make a driving that it places you farther away from your horse stand while hooked to a vehicle. He horse when climbing into the vehicle. The has to want to do it and the process begins extra step can make a difference if your in these first few lessons on the leadline. horse acts up and you have to reach his Once you can lead your horse anywhere head for control. reliably, you can introduce the harness. Your horse should not be hooked to a Introduce the bit to your horse by using four-wheeled vehicle until he is well a simple, well-designed, well-fitting bit. A schooled at the halt and the rein back. mullen mouth or a two-or three-piece These vehicles are easily jack knifed in mouth of simple snaffle design is just fine.A reverse and could cause serious problems plain headstall will hold the bit and allow for an unschooled horse. for a to be used over the top when The ubiquitous pneumatic tired, light- leading. You can, of course, allow him to metal pipe cart is also a poor choice for wear the headstall and bit in his stall for starting your horse to drive. They are too short periods to accustom him to the bit in light and generally of poor structural his mouth. Cues from the bit will come strength and design. The seating is usually later.For now, you should lead him from the too low.The metal construction is also very halter, not the bit. unforgiving should you have an accident. Introduce the saddle by placing it on A wooden, two-wheeled, pneumatic tired your horse in his stall without a back strap jog cart works well as long as the terrain of (turnback) and crupper. Keep the your work area is in good condition and rel- loose. Allow him to walk around his stall atively level. The seating is generally a little wearing the saddle for short periods.When low, but is acceptable or it can be raised if you put the saddle on, slide it on calmly and you are handy.Wooden wheeled road carts quietly from the side. Do not slap it down ~ 8 ~ TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 11

on his back.When you remove it, go slow- get over it. A slightly over stuffed crupper ly. Be especially careful not to yank on the seems to help “tail clampers” as it stretch- girth. Let him know there is nothing about es the muscles around the tail and it is the saddle that should excite him.After one much more difficult to clamp their tail or two sessions you can tighten the girth around something a little fatter. A fatter slowly and carefully and lead him outside crupper also will help prevent a rein from with it on. Horses who move around a lot getting caught tightly under the tail and will while being harnessed are unpleasant to help minimize the reaction of your horse deal with and that bad habit usually has its when it does happen. origins with the first few attempts to put something on his back. Be mindful how unnatural this is for your horse. A breastplate can be introduced at this point. Horses usually are unconcerned with breastplates. Use one that is made for snap on or buckle on traces. Sewn on traces will just get in the way at this point. I fasten each end of the breastplate to the saddle. Quick- hitch training saddles usually have rings on The horse is set up for lungeing. He has the sides. I connect the rings on the saddle become accustomed to wearing a bit in his to the breastplate with double ended snaps. mouth, but has not yet had reins attached.The This does two things: It adds some stability lunge line runs from the trainer’s hand angled to the saddle while lungeing and ground forward in the direction the horse will be mov- driving, and it accustoms the horse to a feel ing and is connected to the halter, not the bit. of the breastplate across his chest as he Although somewhat difficult to see in this moves his shoulders. photo, he is wearing a sliding side rein which he Introducing the crupper should be done has become accustomed to in previous lessons. carefully.You should prepare your horse for He is wearing breeching which is attached to the crupper by making sure he is relatively the breastplate with leather straps on each unconcerned with having his tail handled. side. As his shoulders and hind legs move, he Scratching him on his rump around his tail quickly will become accustomed to the feel of usually will help him become accustomed the breeching.The trainer can also move closer to your handling. Lift his tail slowly and gen- to the horse and pull on the leather straps to tly let it down. Do this regularly as an help simulate the feel of the breeching when extension of his normal grooming process. the horse is attached to a vehicle.The horse is Slow down the instant he becomes tense wearing an open bridle and has not yet been and allow him time to relax before pro- introduced to blinders. ceeding. Your goal is to have your horse absolutely unconcerned about anything Introduce the crupper in your horse’s stall under his tail. If you scare him at this point with an assistant holding your horse with a in his training, you may have to live with lead. The crupper should have a buckle on “crupper anxiety” for a long time. Horses at least one side, which you can undo to are quite sensitive under their tail. Some make placement under the tail fairly easy horses are naturally concerned with this and comfortable for your horse. Stand to process and will reflexively clamp their tail the side up against the flank, not directly every time you go near it or touch it.You behind your horse, when you put the crup- may have to live with some crupper anxiety, per under the tail for the first time and be although there are tail exercises you can do very careful to let the tail down gently. Be to accustom your horse to having his tail careful to not get tail hairs between the handled. Some horses can benefit by mas- crupper and the underside of the tail.They sage or even chiropractic adjustment of will cause rubs and make your horse quite their tail and hind end. Some never seem to uncomfortable. If you have never put a ~ 9 ~ TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 12

crupper on a horse, it might be wise to simulate the sudden pressures your horse practice on a well trained driving horse will feel once hooked to a vehicle. until you can do it smoothly and deliber- ately with a minimum of fuss. LUNGEING The turnback strap need not be tight. Its By now you have prepared your horse with function is to prevent the saddle from rid- lessons while grooming, and leading, and ing forward up onto the withers and to have introduced the bit, the breastplate, the support the breeching if it is used. Keep it saddle, and the crupper.Your horse should a little on the long side when you first put understand and obey the elementary verbal the crupper on. Shorten it once the crup- commands walk, , halt, back, and stand. per is on only to the point where the crup- Whether you teach your horse to lunge or per is just positioned in place, not pulled to ground drive first will depend on factors tight against the tail nor with any large such as age, learning aptitude, and his gen- amount of space between the crupper and eral nature. Professional trainers have per- the tail. Recheck the crupper placement sonal preferences on how to proceed and once your horse relaxes in his stall or at there is no hard and fast rule about work and reposition if necessary. whether lungeing or ground driving is bet- Let your horse walk about in his stall ter to teach first. Generally, it is fairly sim- with the crupper on for a session or two ple for a horse who already knows how to before you take him outside. Some horses lunge to readily accept ground driving. do not fully realize they are wearing a Lungeing, on the other hand, can be a little crupper until they are outside and begin to more physically stressful on the young trot. At that point they may kick up or horse than ground driving. wring their tail and may actually get the Lungeing techniques are well covered in crupper off. If that happens, just stop your several good books on the subject and an horse and settle him.With your assistant at in-depth discussion of them is beyond the his head, put the crupper back in place and scope of this article. Use lungeing to refine start over. Once your horse realizes the and reinforce the verbal communication crupper isn’t going to hurt him and it isn’t you have established previously with your going away, he should soon forget about it. horse. Lungeing should be used to improve Introduce the breeching once your your horse’s balance and rhythm at the horse is wearing the crupper without con- walk and trot.The canter can be introduced cern. This can be done by putting on the if your horse gives you an indication that he saddle and crupper, then attaching the might be physically and mentally ready.This breeching. This will include all the breech- means that your horse may simply break ing parts: the breeching hanger straps, into the canter from the trot at times and breeching itself, and breeching straps.Again not become overly excited or unbalanced proceed with some care so you do not while doing so. Racing, swinging the upset your horse with all these new straps. hindquarters away from you, and pulling the The breeching straps can be brought for- lunge line are indications that your horse ward and attached to the sides of the sad- may not be ready for canter work, but dle, to the tugs, or to a breastplate on each there is adequate time for that and it need side in some fashion. I remove the breech- not be asked for at this stage. ing straps altogether and use a straight Lungeing is not used for simply exercis- adjustable side rein to hook the breeching ing your horse, lungeing is for training your through the tug and then to the breast- horse. All lungeing should be done with plate. This setup connects the breastplate your horse wearing a bit attached to some to the breeching and quickly accustoms form of side rein. Without , your your horse to pressures on his chest, horse is not learning anything about bal- flanks, and rump as he moves. As I work ance and self carriage. Important lessons with the horse from the ground, I can eas- your harness horse can learn and you can ily pull on the side rein from the side to refine on the lunge are to halt and stand, ~ 10 ~ TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 13

back up, walk, trot, and canter (although not the side rein is asking. A side rein should essential at this point) with ease, comfort, only be used on any kind of leverage (curb, and relaxation. Liverpool) bit by an experienced horseman. An elastic rein, instead of a fixed length SIDE REIN rein, considerably lowers the risk of the Introducing the side rein is done while occasional bad reaction. Never hook a lungeing or ground driving.There are many horse wearing any kind of side rein for the kinds of side reins, each with their particu- first time to a vehicle. Always ground drive lar strengths and weaknesses. The sliding your horse for a few minutes whenever you side rein (also known as a German side add a side rein or change any part of your rein) is particularly suited to starting the harness set-up to make sure he is accus- harness horse. The sliding side rein runs tomed to the new feel. from one side of the saddle through the bit The sliding side rein is particularly useful on the same side, then down between the for re-schooling driving horses who have legs of the horse, through a ring on the been driven originally in a check rein and a girth, back up through the bit on the oppo- running martingale. Some horses become site side, then to the saddle on that side. so reliant on those devices for balance that The rein can slide at every point except at they have to completely re-learn how to the attachments to the saddle, where it is carry themselves when working without fixed and where its length is adjusted. This them. The sliding side rein, used correctly, arrangement allows the horse a wide range can help that process dramatically. Horses of motion of its head and neck—up and originally introduced to the sliding side rein down and side to side. It effectively helps can readily move to a running martingale if your horse find his balance, stretch through it is required by a particular discipline.The the topline, and to accept mild pressures on side rein should not become a permanent the bit in preparation for actual rein article of working or training equipment. It instructions. It allows your horse to accom- is worth repeating: the sliding side rein is plish this without being overly interfered simply for showing your horse the way to a with through the bit by less educated or more efficient approach to his work. Once less skillful hands. The sliding side rein the horse realizes the benefit of this effi- should not pull or force your horse into a ciency, the side rein can be dispensed. position; it should simply remind and guide your horse to a position that is efficient for GROUND DRIVING work. Efficiency carries a built-in reward:As Ground driving or long lining is an essential your horse realizes that his job becomes step in training your horse to drive. physically easier to perform, he naturally Frequently, older horses already have been will more readily assume the most efficient taught to ground drive and ground driving position to perform it on his own. can be used to refresh their training or to Sliding side reins are easily made out of safely work on areas in their training that cotton cord (clothesline works fairly well). may be lacking, like balance, fear issues, sup- A few well chosen snaps make it handy to pleness, bit acceptance, etc. Ground driving put it on the horse. A further modification is done with two lines or reins attached to is to make the rein entirely out of elastic the bit. Since you have not been using rein shock cord.This works particularly well as contact to the bit up to this point, begin by it has the consistent “give and take” that is attaching the reins to the side rings of the very similar to the gentle hands of an edu- halter or cavesson.Your horse may need a cated rider or driver. few sessions to become accustomed to the Warning: Some horses resent being over- feel of lines over his back or on his rump or ly constricted by side reins of any design, so to the sound of them slapping together as great care should be taken to adjust them he works. Attaching the lines to the halter properly, very loose at first, shorter only as or cavesson will prevent your horse from your horse becomes accustomed to what jerking himself in the mouth. Once your ~ 11 ~ TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 14

horse accepts the lines, attach them to the Repeat your verbal command lessons that bit. For the first few lessons, you may wish your horse learned on the lunge and begin to have an assistant lead your horse with a to add some signals through the bit from leadline attached to the halter. your hands.This can be difficult for people Every trainer has preferences for how he to do well who are not experienced at or she sets up the reins and there is no ground driving. You must be able to main- hard and fast rule. Usually the lines are run tain a light, constant connection through from the bit rings through the on the rein to your horse’s mouth while mov- the harness saddle to your hands. Some ing yourself across the ground. The secret trainers prefer to run the lines through a to this is to be willing and able to freely lower position on the side of the saddle in move your entire body toward and away an effort to encourage the horse to travel from the horse, depending on where he with a lower head and neck carriage at first. moves in relation to you. This will take This position asks your horse to carry him- some practice. Hold your elbows by your self and work in an efficient position and side, bent at 90 degrees, with your hands makes it a little less likely that your horse level in front of you.This position will allow will evade the action of the bit by raising up your elbow to act like a hinge, opening to above it. If you do not have training rings stretch your arms forward or closing to attached on the side of your saddle, you can move your elbows behind your back. This run the lines through the tugs. If you are will help you maintain a responsive connec- using the sliding side rein attachment, you tion to your horse’s mouth.You may find it can run the reins from the bit through the beneficial to practice ground driving on a terrets since the side rein will be reminding well-trained horse with the help of an your horse to carry himself in an efficient experienced instructor before you try it on position with his head and neck lowered. a young horse or an older horse who has Draw rein arrangements are not useful some training issues. at this time.Their increased leverage may in You can work your horse from several fact be quite counterproductive to produc- positions while ground driving. At first you ing a supple, cooperative driving horse with will probably find that staying in the posi- a light and responsive mouth. Some horses tion your horse was taught to lunge from with specific problems may benefit from will work the best: from the side, away from the use of draw reins, but that is beyond the your horse, just behind the girth. This scope of this article. If your ultimate goal is works well for circle work.You will want to for the raised-up carriage of the head and begin to teach your horse to steer and for neck of the Morgan show horse, how you this you should move closer to the horse will work with your horse to attain that and a little further behind but still to the first depends on whether his conformation side where he can see you, not directly will allow it and second depends on your behind out of his vision. If you are using a horse being slowly conditioned to carry hood or blinders, this will not matter to himself comfortably in that manner. Resist your horse since he cannot see you. the temptation to ask your horse for this You can introduce steering in several before he has been adequately prepared. ways.The choice you make will depend on There is plenty of time. the nature of your horse and the working If your horse already has done some space available to you. It is easy to begin to lungeing, he is by now used to working in a add a few straight strides in your circle circle.Your first ground driving lessons will work by giving a signal with the rein in your use the same circle. Round pens make this outside hand followed by another signal work simple since your horse’s work area from your inside rein asking the horse to is so well defined by the pen. It may be return to the circle. Some trainers will sim- more difficult to do this work in an open ply walk the horse along a fence in a area, but if you have done your lungeing straight line and ask for a turn when com- work well it should not be a big problem. ing to a corner in the fence.The horse will ~ 12 ~ TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 15

quickly associate the instruction in his while running along side your horse. mouth with turning. After a few tries at Keep your lessons brief (15-20 minutes) this, you can ask for a turn slightly before and be happy with small, but positive the corner and gradually increase the dis- results. Always begin with things you tance from the corner in successive tries. already know your horse understands.Your You always can return to waiting until horse is trying to assimilate a lot of infor- rather deep in the corner if your horse has mation that is foreign to his inherent difficulty. Once this introductory work is nature. Give him plenty of time to process learned at the walk, you can move on to it.At many junctures along the way, you will the trot. have to carefully gauge when to move on to The instruction from your hand to your the next step. Some horses seem to be horse’s mouth will be rather coarse in born trained and some of the more inde- comparison to the refined, subtle rein pendently minded just want to choose the movements that come with lots of practice hard way every time. Be patient. Go slow, and experience.You likely will find yourself repeat, and review. Your horse will be a overexaggerating your rein instructions so good driving horse for years if you take the your horse can realize you are trying to tell time to make his life in school as pleasant as him something. Take advantage of good it can. opportunities to reward correct behavior Once your horse has the basic elements when your horse delivers the desired result of steering under control, you can take him almost by accident from quieter cues. In for walks outside of your work area. Most spite of all your efforts to make the right horses really enjoy this, so if your horse choices easy for your horse to understand, seems to be bored, inattentive, or tired of a certain amount of his efforts will be just ring work, perhaps you can refresh his mind his best guesses.You can think of your rein by taking him to explore the outside world. instructions as similar in quality to the lan- It’s a good idea to ground drive your horse guage you used when first learning to read. where you will be driving once you get him It was basic, simple, and easy to compre- hooked. A familiar environment is one less hend. It was no more complicated than “see thing for your horse to worry about on Spot run.” This is a similar elementary level those first few drives. of understanding your horse will have when At some point, you will have to make a you first introduce the signals through his decision about whether to use blinders or bit. It is OK that your instruction is not as not; good arguments are on both sides of quiet and subtle as that you would use with this issue. Those who use blinders will tell a fully schooled horse. Your new driving you they never have gotten in trouble using horse has not yet been prepared to under- them. Most horses in competitions, stand the subtleties of a more refined lan- whether in the show ring (where they are guage.There is time for that later. considered appropriate) or in carriage Life comes at you and your horse a lot competitions, will be driven in blinders. faster at the trot! That means two things: Others will tell you that teaching your You will have to be quite fit to run along horse not to be afraid of all kinds of things with your trotting horse and second, your behind and around him while he is driving is horse may find it more difficult to stay calm a good thing. Nevertheless, once your and relaxed as his blood pumps a little horse is being ground driven well, you can faster and as his brain has to process life a introduce the blindered bridle. little faster. For those reasons, ground driv- Introducing the blinders can be done by ing at the trot is best done in a circle at switching to a blindered bridle or by adding first. Once again, you can begin to add a few a blinker hood over an open bridle. Blinker straight strides in your circle, which will hoods can be helpful with horses who necessitate you moving quickly along with ignore your verbal commands and react those few strides. If you are up to it physi- inappropriately when you attempt to rein- cally, you can make other simple figures force your instructions with a tap of a . ~ 13 ~ TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 16

When they can no longer see you when one type of surface to another around your verbal instruction is reinforced with your horse. the touch of the whip, suddenly they Once your horse is unconcerned with become quite obedient! In any event, the drag being pulled around him, it is time repeat your lessons using blinders until to hook him to it. Before you hook up your your horse is relaxed and comfortable with drag, have your assistant hold the traces his newly limited vision. out behind your horse while you ground Introducing noises is especially impor- drive him for a brief walk. Have your assis- tant to the making of a reliable driving tant pull on the traces from directly behind horse. Once your horse has the basic your horse, then from each side. This will knowledge of commands and can be driven alert you to any issues the horse may have from the ground relatively confidently, you with the feeling of the traces on his rump can begin to expose him more and more to and legs and with the feel of the pressure the noises and commotion that you will against his chest from the breastplate. Once inevitably encounter while driving.The time you are convinced those things do not to find out how he will react to a sudden bother him, proceed to the next step. noise and movement is before he is hooked Place your assistant on the end of a lead to a vehicle. Tap the bushes or the ground attached to your horse’s halter that is with your whip while ground driving. Pick placed over the bridle, making sure the bit up a stick and drag it on the ground. Have and reins have room to function properly. your assistant tactfully drag things on the You can also attach a lead to the cavesson ground in front, beside, and behind your if it is sturdy enough. Do not attach the lead horse while you drive him from the ground. to the bit. You will need the bit unencum- The object is not to frighten your horse, bered to communicate to your horse. but to accustom him to sudden and chang- Run the traces through the breeching ing noises around him. Some horses will be hanger straps and above the breeching unconcerned with this. Count yourself strap itself and then down to the drag, lucky if this is your horse! Some are quite rather than directly from the breastplate to bothered by these noises.You will have to the drag. This keeps the traces well above work a little harder and longer to desensi- the hocks. The additional benefit to this tize your horse, but it must be done before arrangement is that some pull and tug is you hook him to a vehicle. applied to the breeching as your horse pulls the drag, which will help accustom him to PULLING A DRAG the feel of the breeching when finally Pulling a drag is the next natural progres- hooked to a vehicle. If you are not using sion to this process. The initial work with breeching, you can fashion a hanger strap the drag is best done in an enclosed area. using stout cord from the turnback strap to Drags make noise. This is a good thing. It hold the traces up above the hocks. will help to desensitize your horse to sud- With your assistant at your horse’s head den noises around him. In making this step, and your horse positioned so the traces it is wise to use an assistant.Your assistant can reach the drag, attach your traces can pull your drag out in front of your quickly to the drag. Better yet, with the horse where he can see it and get used to traces already attached to the drag, bring the sounds it makes while it is in his view. them up as described above and attach Once he is settled at that, your assistant them to the breastplate with snaps or can move to various positions around your buckles depending on the design. Keep the horse. Work at this until your horse is reins in one hand or at least within easy unconcerned with the noises made by the reach at all times so that if your horse drag. Remember that the drag will make moves off you can instantly assume control. different noises on different surfaces. It You are in the most vulnerable position may even be almost silent on grass. Make when just one trace is attached to the drag. sure you work with your drag going from Should your horse move off at this point, he ~ 14 ~ TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 17

is apt to be easily frightened by the uneven execute their instructions.This is especially drag on the breastplate and events can important early in your horse’s education quickly escalate out of control. when he lacks the physical strength and Once your drag is hooked, move to the coordination, as well as the mental disci- side with your reins and ask your horse to pline, to execute precise, controlled move- walk off. Plan in advance to walk only a few ments. All athletes need practice and exer- strides and then to ask for a halt. If all goes cise to perfect their performance. Horses well through that first halt, walk off again are no different. for a longer distance and then halt. The Once your horse is doing well with the point is to make sure your horse is con- drag in the ring, take him for lessons out of firmed in the halt command before things the ring. Go wherever you plan to drive him can escalate out of control should your for his first few lessons. Don’t forget the horse become a little leery of the drag.The standing lessons! first lesson with the drag is best ended False shafts are a good way to introduce before your horse has a chance to make a the feel of a vehicle to the horse. If you have mistake. If he walks off and halts a few times been using a drag that has shafts, you obvi- with the drag in the first lesson, you are ously can skip the next step. False shafts can probably smart to quit. be a simple piece of light lumber, a Begin the next lesson just like the first. debarked sapling, or a piece of plastic pipe Make the lesson longer each time and begin about 12 feet long. Slip one end of the false to add some figures and turning. If he is shaft through the tug on one side of the unconcerned with the drag, you may pro- horse and have your assistant on the other ceed without your assistant and ask for a end holding it up about waist high. Your trot in a circle. Again, ask for just a few assistant can make sure the pole rubs strides at the trot that first time.The drag against the body of your horse as you will make a different noise and life will ground drive him. Most horses do not mind come at your horse faster than at the walk. this, but it is best to find out before you Give him a chance to assimilate the new proceed with actually hooking to a cart. A sensations before asking for longer and horse who is afraid of the touch of the faster trot work. Do several halt-walk-trot- shafts will have a hard time bending prop- walk-halt transitions in each lesson. erly while hooked to a vehicle. This lesson Gradually increase the duration of the halt. can be brief and usually, unless you It is vitally important that harness horses encounter trouble, does not need to be be obedient at performing the halt and be repeated more than once or twice before able to remain standing still for as long as proceeding. you ask.Your safety and that of other driv- ers and their horses depends on it. At the HOOKING YOUR HORSE same time, remember that you cannot Hooking the horse for the first time is one make your horse stand still. He has to want of the most critical junctures in the driving to do it.Too much repetition or repetition horse’s life.Your horse can be ruined in sec- when your horse is non-receptive may pro- onds if things do not go well.All the careful duce a horse who resents standing still. work you have done to this point should Vary the routine slightly each time so that have prepared your horse well, so that your horse does not anticipate what you being hooked will be a non-issue. But there will ask for next and eagerly looks forward always is that slim chance that his natural to your next instruction. instincts will overpower all your training if The key to good driving is not so much he becomes scared. with the quality of the forward movement You will need at least one assistant, but as it is with the quality of the transitions two are better. Provide each with a stout between the movements. The most com- lead shank. Put a halter on over the bridle mon mistake drivers make is not allowing of your horse. For a few minutes, pull the enough time and space for their horse to drag you have been using up until now so ~ 15 ~ TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 18

you can assess your horse’s mood and breeching on one side, then the trace and obedience level. If there is any question, breeching on the other side.This keeps you proceed with your regular drag lesson from crossing back and forth several times rather than hooking him that day. It can to get your horse hooked. Better yet, if you wait until he is ready. It’s probably not a have enough assistance, hook both traces at good idea to try to hook your horse for the same time, then both breeching straps. the first time after he has been cooped up Quick-hitch style harnesses make this in his stall for a couple of days. Do what process quick. The greatest risk is having you can to have him in a relaxed frame of the horse move off while only partially mind for this lesson. hooked. Hook quickly, quietly, and calmly If all goes well, you are ready to hook. without any wasted motion. Don’t rush or Unhook your drag and have your assis- you will make a mistake, but do not waste tant(s) pull the vehicle in front of the horse a lot of time either.This is where snap-on just like you did when first training your traces and breeching can help a lot. They horse with the drag. Drive your horse from are much faster than fussing with buckles the ground behind, beside, and in front of and straps.You can reduce a lot of fussing the vehicle that is being pulled at the same with harness adjustments if you have every- time by your assistants. If your horse is thing pre-adjusted to fit your size horse to unconcerned, proceed with the next step your vehicle. If possible, use a good driving right away or wait until the next lesson and harness of the same size to make sure repeat the above. everything will fit with minimum adjust- Attach the leads to the halter on each ment. side with an assistant on the end of each Some trainers feel the safest place to be lead. There is some debate about whether once your horse is hooked is seated in the to attach the leads directly to the bit or the cart. Generally speaking, that is true. halter. Attaching them to the bit removes However, for these first lessons, as long as some level of control from the driver. you have your assistants to help you, you Attaching to the halter may not give the may find it preferable to drive from the assistants as much control.As a trainer and ground. From there you usually can make a driver, I prefer to have as much control as quicker assessment of your horse’s mental possible, so I attach the leads to the halter, state and thereby be able to prevent esca- perhaps even running a chain lead over the lation of his anxieties sooner.The disadvan- horse’s nose.This gives me control through tage is that if he breaks into a trot, you’ll the horse’s mouth and the assistants have have to move quickly to keep up. If the sit- additional control with the halter. That’s uation begins to unravel, generally it is safer usually sufficient. for you to be on the ground. Stand your horse in front of your vehicle. Once hooked, ask your horse to quietly Keeping the reins in one hand and coiled walk off while you drive from the ground. carefully for instant use, slide the shafts As with the drag, plan on halting after only through the tugs with an assistant doing the a few strides. Be mindful that when your same on the other side. Some trainers will horse halts, the breeching along with the not tie the horse into the vehicle at first vehicle’s weight will push your horse for- and ask the horse to walk forward while ward. That bothers some horses. Your your assistants pull the vehicle. If the horse horse may try to halt only to be shoved rushes forward, the vehicle can simply be forward by the breeching, causing him to slid out of the tugs and the horse can just take another step or two.Your horse may continue on unharmed. Other trainers tie try to halt again and be shoved once more. them in the first time as described below. Some tactful rein management may be If your horse has been prepared correct- required to keep your horse from becom- ly, you probably can safely tie your horse in ing confused by these apparently conflict- as follows: With your assistant(s) holding ing signals.You can have one of your assis- your horse at his head, attach the trace and tants help to manage the shoving of the ~ 16 ~ TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 19

breeching by keeping a hand on the shaft In these early lessons, your horse is assim- and pushing backwards when you ask for ilating a lot of information. Give him the time the halt. It should not take long for your and space to do so. Insisting that your horse horse to learn how to manage the breech- give you the desired response instantly by ing for himself. being forceful with your aids (voice, reins, If all goes well, walk off again.Your assis- whip) will only make him resentful and fear- tants should be instructed to leave the ful of the entire experience. Your horse is horse completely alone unless he acts not physically strong enough nor is he bal- upset.They should remain behind the blind- anced or coordinated enough to deliver per- ers, out of sight, unless your horse needs fect transitions.At this stage of the process, some extra encouragement to walk for- your horse does not even have a clear idea ward. At that point, one assistant can actu- of what the finished result should be. He will ally lead the horse forward with the lead make a few mistakes, but with repetition shank.The assistants should be careful that your horse will improve, provided you are they are not inadvertently poked by the consistent. For now, be satisfied with small, ends of the shafts or even knocked to the simple successes. ground if things go wrong. They may be In your next lesson, proceed much the instructed to talk to the horse and stroke same and ask for a trot, increasing the dis- him carefully on the neck to reassure him tance a little bit each time. Do not worry and to praise him for being such a well- too much about making sure you go in both behaved and brave horse.This first session directions.There is plenty of time for that. should be short and sweet.Walk, halt, walk Right now you just want the experience to a little more, and halt. Then stand and be be uneventful, unexciting, and untroubling unhooked. Take your horse back to the to your horse. Your horse needs to know barn and lavish much praise on him. It there is nothing to become excited about sometimes helps to end this lesson right and part of the success in these early les- about feeding time; nothing compares to sons is to quit before you give him the the positive reinforcement of food. chance to make a big mistake. The next lesson proceeds much as the previous one. Each time, you should be DRIVING focused on building your horse’s confidence You are well on your way to having a safe in the process of learning and the routine driving horse. Work a few more lessons should become more solidified in your including a trot with at least one assistant horse’s mind with each repetition. If you on a lead. Once you are sure your horse is have no problems after the first few les- unperturbed at trotting while hooked to a sons, you can climb into the vehicle and ask vehicle, you can ask your assistant to your horse to walk off. Once he can walk, unhook the lead while you continue with halt, and stand with you in the vehicle, you your lesson, making sure he or she stands are ready to ask for a brief trot. Most hors- by to come to your aid should you need es will let you know they are ready for this another pair of hands. step.They naturally will want to break from Once you can trot both directions of the walk into a trot because pulling at the your ring, halt, stand quietly, etc., you are trot is easier than pulling at the walk. Be ready to take your horse out into the alert to when that happens.The first time it world. Drive him at the walk on your happens, calmly ask to return to the walk planned route where you already have right away. Walk for a short distance and taken him on your walks with the drag.The then ask for the trot. Make trotting your first lesson out there is all at the walk and idea. Plan on only a few strides at the trot is short.Try to make this work on more or before asking for a return to the walk. If all less level ground.Your horse is not ready to goes well, ask your horse for another brief face going up or down steep, long hills. trot. Return to the walk. Then halt and Introduce the hills gradually. Don’t be over- stand. End of lesson. ly concerned if your horse wants to travel ~ 17 ~ TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 20

crooked or wander a bit on the hills. It is your horse’s mental outlook and he will be unnatural for horses to travel straight up or ready and more willing than ever to take straight down a hill. Given a choice at liber- you wherever you wish to drive him. Once ty, he will traverse hills. However, to effi- back to work, you can begin to fine-tune his ciently pull a vehicle, they must be kept education by working on the quality of your straight from the head to the tail while trav- transitions, bending, speed, etc. It can take eling in a straight line. It is your job as a driv- years of work to fine-tune and finish your er to show them how to do that.Again, be driving horse.There seems to be no end to mindful of when they tell you they are ready the polish you can apply, but there also is no to trot outside of the ring, especially going end to the fun and satisfaction of doing it up hill. Do as you did in the ring: ask for a yourself! return to the walk, and then ask for the trot. Make it your idea. Gradually increase ABOUT THE AUTHOR: the length of your drives. Gradually expose The author, Jeff Morse, learned to ride on your horse to more sights and sounds. Keep Abbington Of Shady Lawn, the 1949 an eye out for things your horse has never National Champion Morgan Mare. He seen or heard before. During these first few spent 12 summers as a youth at Green lessons outside your ring, try to work when Meads Farm riding Morgans and attending you know the environment will be quiet the New Morgan Shows. He and predictable. returned to Green Meads Farm as manag- You’ll note I have not focused much on er in 1974. He has served as vice president the rein back up to this point.That does not of the New England Associ- mean you should not work on it as you go ation and president and treasurer of the through the ground driving and hooking Massachusetts Morgan Horse Association. process. However, it is a fairly complicated He has been the chairman of the movement for a horse to perform correct- Massachusetts Morgan since ly while hooked to a vehicle. It is quite 1989. He currently is training Morgan hors- unnatural for him to push backwards with es with an emphasis on carriage driving at the breeching without being able to see in Green Meads Farm in Richmond, that direction. Since the rein back is not Massachusetts. used nearly as often as the halt or the for- ward movements, you can teach the rein AUTHOR’S NOTE: back while ground driving and then wait Thanks to Barbara Irvine and Rum until your horse is driving well while Brook Galahad for help with the photo- hooked before picking up the rein back les- graphs. son again. When asking your horse for a rein back while hooked, it is helpful to halt upward on a slight incline.This will make it DISCLAIMER: easy for him to rein back without becoming The practices and exercises described are not the overly concerned with pushing a lot of only way to produce a safe driving horse at home, but weight with the breeching. As he makes are generally accepted as legitimate approaches to training a horse to drive.The process is not without progress, halt on more level ground and some risk to horses and handlers. The instructions eventually on downward slopes. contained in this article are to be used only as a guideline. Neither AMHA nor the author can be held FINISHING liable for the actions of a horse beyond his control or Finally, your horse has become a well-start- for the actions or injuries of anyone using these ed driving horse. He has undergone inten- guidelines to start a driving horse.The author does, sive work that has been a lot for his mind however, encourage readers to contact him should and his body to accept. It’s probably a good there be any questions about any information in this time to give him some time off.Your horse booklet: Jeff Morse, Green Meads Farm, P.O. Box 158, will not forget his lessons.Two weeks off or Richmond, MA 01254, e-mail: [email protected], more at this point will work wonders on telephone: (413) 698-3804. ~ 18 ~ TchYrMrgnHseToDrive 10/25/10 11:20 AM Page 21

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