THE STORY OF DUBLIN C I T Y COUNTYCITY

I

BY BRIGID ,REDMOND,M.A. Rdìmr etuThe Golden Age” Literary Readings

d BROWNE AND NOLAN LIMITED Mediewal 9ublin. DUBLIN BELFAST CORK WATERFORD Showing the maIn features as mapped by Professor Abercrombie from vadoua original sources. - . I

PAGE CHAPTERI PUBLISHERS' NOTE THE KINGDOMOF LEINSTER. 9 CHAPTERII THEREare many Tourist Guides to Dublin, and no THE PAGANCELTS OF DUBLIN II lack of high-priced Histories ; but between the two there is surely room for a short and pleasantly written CHAPTERIII THEHAUNTS FINNAND THE FIANNA Story of our ancient town, in a form that will appeal OF . I3 to the interest of all readers, whether citizens already CHAPTERIV or strangers within our gates. This happy medium EARLYCHRISTIAN SANCTUARIES IN COUNTY r.)UBLIN . 16 will be found in the present little book. CHAPTERV For kind help in selecting the distinctive illustrations Tm DRUIDSIN COUNTYDUBLIN . 24 our best thanks are tendered to the Royal Society of CHAPTER Antiquaries of Ireland, Professor Patrick Abercrombie, VI DANISEDUBLIN . 26 M.A., of Liverpool University, Messrs. J. M. Dent & Sons, London, and Mr. J. G. Fottrell, Dublin. CHAPTER VI1 HOWTH-FWWRESFROM THEPAST .' 31 BROWNE & NOLAN, LIMITED. CHAPTERVI11 DALKEY-THE PORTOF THE SEVBNCASTLES 38 CHAPTERIS TEE NORMANSIN DUBLIN . 42 i i CRAPTERX I THB BLOODYFIELDS . 46 'I CHAPTERXI SOWE NORUANMONASIXRIBS . 49 CONTENTS

PAGE CHAPTER XII ILLUSTRATIONS A NORMANCASTLE OF THE PALE . PAGE CHAPTERXII1 MEDIEVALDUBLIN . . Fvontìs+ìece THE MANORSOF THE ARCHBISHOPOF DUBLIN SMug th main .fsahcrw, & mappaì by Profsssor Ablrcrombis f?m wriow or8ginal mrcdb. CHAPTER XIV TYPESOF CROMLECH 12 A BALLADOF THE PALE (Thomas Davis) . Bud strudu?u of mauivc stones found in Co. Dubfin. CHAPTER XV SPECIMENSOF OGHAMWRITING . 15 MEDIEVAL DUBLIN a . Canted on pilltar stones discovc*#l in many ph.

CHAPTER XVI R ATI~MICHAEL CHURCH 18 CHRIST CHURCHCATHEDRAL . Where a typical group of church buildings ezisted in atm¿& times, close ha hg8 ruth. CHAPTER XVII RUINS HOWTHABBEY 20 DUBLINOF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY , OF . Fovndad by St. Fintan in tk ninth century. With via0 of djoiniug CHAPTERXVIII ha?bour. DURLIN OF THE EIGHTEENTHCENTURY . CLONDALKINROUND TOWER 22 A good spccimdn of class : 84 fi. high ; 45 fi. circwnjwmw; CHAPTERXIX Waus. 3 fr. tu. DUBLINUNIONTHEAFTER . . SCRIBEILLUMINATING A ROOK . 25 Fma manusoript in tk Bdish Muscum.

MOUNTED CELT . “9 PTuhdQriG StOM implcmsnt for nrttiug O? clapvir;g, mounc#L m 9 d.

ST. MICHAH’S CHURCH 34. Budl tauads tk snd O th s~vmt&ntb CsrJUry on th6 sirc of the mual Church of d. Michan, fou- by :h DanCs in rogg. A NORMANCASTLE OF THE TWPLFTHCRNTURY . 39 B- castk~,CO. WEnI g&-&& and fiesmaì, OVW- MngBullOCR Harbour.

OLD CITY WALL AND Soum FRONTOF CASTLE . 43 Shmoiug a portion of tk Old City WUUS,a$ Ship-si~ddnharw Lo th6 castle. 7 ? ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE ST. PATRICK'SCATHEDRU. . . FdinII zbyAdb¡sk@Conryn,~loSt.k- THE STORY OF DUBLIN 0~00lssrr t& ~csof MU^. OLD ClTY GATE: ST. AUDOEN'SARCH . CHAPTERI A~pastrrgrbytks~md30fS#.A~s,~~brrr arch of h same MM, whh sb th only sunnvsng &y gotS. THE KINGDOM OF LEINSTER DUBLIN CASTLEIN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY Th Lord D@uiy, sk Hdmy SW,riding out Whh gat6 (m'I Derrick's Vhs.") ancient Kingdom of Leinster was bounded TH!n the north by the Liffey ; its western frontier ' THELAST OLD WOODENHOUSE IN DUBLIN was the Kingdom of Desmond ; its eastern limit the Come of WdrghSt. and Castle St., tuken dawn !n 1813. sea, its southern the ocean. ST. AUDOEN'S CHURCH : THE RUINEDAISLR Its name is. said to be derived from kifben, a Th fisi parish durch a& irr Dublin by t& Nonnarr sslucrs. sort of spear, introduced from Gaul bj one of its CHRISTCHURCH CATHEDRAL .. . earliest kings. The affix " Ster " (place) was added Foundad by Sk0ngbaU.m the of anancient Da*) &rd, by the Danes. and com$lstcd wly W ihe ihwtcenth century. The chain of mountains running from Dublin to THELAST OB THE OLD DUBLINBRIDGES . the Barrow kept the people of Leinster apart from B- BNe, ?##O.&#.WatZing Sir&, so culled bmmse of a e the people of the plain. This mountain chain served rwt 5001) a rts qPmng. The castelluted gatmay tuas removed am 18q6 t0 i&k&iUhM. as a natural fortress, approached only by narrow II glens. The rocky walls of these valleys, with their HIGHCROSS AT TULLAGH,Co. DUBLIN . wooded clefts, provided ambushes that told strongly in defence. From the mountain heights the clansmen surveyed the country on both !ídes, commanding the ap- proachesby sea from the east and by land acrosg the plains of Kildare. In all that range of territory the only gap between the Ceatral-Plain and the coast is that afforded by the valley of the Aughrim- Shillelaghrivers, which offers a route between the plain of Carlow and the coast at. Arklow. There is another gap between Mount Leinster and the II 8 9 THE STORY OF DUBLIN THE PAGAN CELTS OF DUBLIN Blackstairs Mountains, the Scullogue Gap, or, as it During the Norseinvasions the men of Hy was formerlycalled, the Passof Hydrone. This Xinsellagh defended the Leinster Chain. Hy Kin- pass led from Hydrone, ’ O’Ryan’s territory, into rellagh waa bounded on the westby the marshes Hy Kinsellagh ; it was little used for organised and dense forests of the Lower Barrow Valley,’ ahd invasion as the KavanaghWilderness of the Duffry by the range of the Blackstairs and Mount Leinster lay betweenGap the and Wexford. ., peaks. In the Norman period the Mac Murroughs The mountain tribes always held themselves inde- dehded the eastern highland, and held it secure pendent of the Plainsmen,and were hostile tothe against the hosts of Richard II. ruling race at Tara, because they were compelled to pay a special tribute. When the Norsemen entrenched themselves in Dublin, and spreadover the Central CHAPTERII Plain and along the east coast, they sought alliances with the highlanders, whosepower they feared. THE PAGAN CELTS OF DUBLIN When the Normans took Dublin, the Irish and Danish clans “ hung perpetually over the neck of the city.” THE first Milesian King of Dublin built his fortress From themqorable Black Monday,when they on Ben Edar, high above the“great waved swooped down upon the Bristolmen at Cullenswood, sea.” This was Criffan, the conqueror of Picts and they becameengaged in perpetual wars with the Scots,who came here’ and saw two deep gullies citizens down tothe seventeenth century. The across a long headland with a pyramidal rock at the existence of an impenetrable highland- close to the end. He strengthened these natural fortifications by eeat of government for a long time delayed the estab- fencing the gJlies on the seaward face with earth- lishment of English rule in Ireland. Atthe time works. On three sides it was defended by steep of the Norman invasion the O’Bymes and O’Tooles difi, the home and breeding-place of countless weredriven from their homes in Kildare intothe gulrs ; on the landward side by a great rampart and wildsof Wicklow. From the highlands therethey a pass. The north side looked down upon a small, carried on a guerillawarfare with the English till , safe harbour and a strand of pebbles, and upon a the seventeenth century. As late as the days of town of mariners and fisher-folk, who dwelt there ’98, the glens and moorland ofWicklow formed the and pursued their labours under the protection of rallying-ground for these menwho, with Michael :the king. Within the stronghold, where the Baily Dwyer at their head, defied the British Government. lighthouse now stands, there was an enclosed lawn The famous Military Road, from Rathfarnham to the and park.Criffan’s cliff-a defended citadel-was Aughrim river, was constructed to hold the head etrong enough to resist the attacks from an armed of the glens, and so control the mountain chain. kost. IO 2 ìI THE STORY OF DUBLIN THE HAUNTS OF FINN From his eyrie in the cliffs Criffan often descended bark " from Merrion shores, and were cast up by a to war upon foreign tribes in Gaul and England; He storm on Dalkey Island, the " thorny isle," where brought .home many rare spoils to adorn his rough they probably got short shrift from the Irish chieftain , mountain fortress. AU his furniture and belongings who had his fort there. were of precious wood or metal, his chariot wasof

gold, his chessboard of ivory, 'silver, and gold, his 7 sword and spear were encrusted with precious gems. CHAPTERIII He was buried A.D. go, in a valley between Shelrnartin and Dunhill, and many cairns on the hills around THE HAUNTS OF FINN AND THE FIANNA are connected with hismemory. c' N Ireland long ago there was a great company I of menwho were bound to no fix? --"L- whenever foes threatened him from mthmthe kingdom or without. This company was called the Fianna of Erinn. They were. mighty hunters and I

Types of Cromlechor I)oImm. Brrripl structures of massive stones, found in County Dublin and many wrought with beautiful chasing and with coloured other parts of Ireland. enamels, they lived mostly a free out-door life in the light hunting booths which they made in the woods One of the five great roads from Tara ledalong where the deer and the wolf ranged. There were the coast throughStoneybatter and Batterstown to then vast forests in Ireland, which are all gone now, Kitdare. Near the Dodder, Bohernabreena, the on and there were also,as there still are, many great bmàdhean or palace of Da Derga was placed. It was and beautiful lakes and rivers,swarming with fish set at a cross-roads, and had open doors facing each and water-fowl. In the forests and the mountain- road. It had a light burning on the lawn all night. on sides roamed the wild boar and the wolf, and great A full cauldron wasalways boiling on the fire. herds of deer,some of giant size,whose enormous One fatal day a band of Britons sailedover the antlers are sometimes found whenbogs are being Irish sea, and pillaged and destroyed the house of hospitality. The hue-and-cry was raised afterthe destroyers, the kingcame down from Tarain hot with great dogs,whose courage and strength and beauty are famous throughout Europe, and which haste on their trail. The marauders " steered their they prized and loved above all things." I I2 . . . . __

THE STORY OF DUBLIN THE HAUNTS OF FINN The Fianna were ruled by a captain called Cool. On the top ofBen Edar the Fianna had their A tribe of the Fianna, named the Clan Morna, rose in rebellion against Cool. They defeated and slew watch-tower, from which they were able to see enemy him at the battle of Cnucha, nowCastleknock, on ships approaching the coast. Here Aideen, daughter the high road from Dublin to Trim. This was a of Angus ofBen Edar, and wifeof Oscar, son of place celebrated in ancient song and story :- Ossian, died through grief for her husband. He was slain at the battle of Gabra, fought near Tara,in There wæs a time when it was R royal seat ; . Meath, A.D. 284. She was buried hereunder the A fortress it was at the time When Tuathal Teethmor posmsed it; 'Twas he that built it brst, It was a king'@dwelling, a royal work, There was not a better abode aave Tara alone, As one moat beloved of the King of Erin. The mound onwhich the ancient Irish fort was built wasused by the Normans as the foundation 6f their castle, and the remains are still to beseen in the grounds of St. Vincent'sCollege. Cnucha is said to have been the foster-mother of Conn of Specìmcnr of Ogham Writing. the Hundred Battles :- An ancient alphabetlc system in the form of short mlelLines carved m plllarstooes discovered in mauy places thmughout the country. The nurseof Conn who lived on this strip of land huge cromlech-stones, her name was inscribed in Was Cnucha of the comely head, Sbe dwelt in this dun with him Ogham, and the Fianna raised a keen over her. In the reign of Cnnn the Hundred Fighta. of They heaved the stone ; they heaped the cairn. Said Ossian-" In a queenly grave Tuathal, too, is said to have dwelt on that " white- We leave her, 'mong her' fields of fern, waved mound," the " sod of death '' to cod, Finn's Betwecn th9 ClifI and wave." father. The cliff behind stands clear and bare ; The favourite hunting-place of the Fianna was in And bare, above, the heathery steep Glennasmole, the Glen of the Thrushes. Here they Scales the clear heaven's expanse, to where had their hmting cabins, and hunted the wild deer The Danaan Druids sleep ; upon the sides of Glencullen. Here, too, under a And all the sands that, left or right, cairn south-east of Ratheen, in Glencullen mountain- The grassy isthmus-ridge canfine, tide, Ossian, the paet son of Finn, was buried. Tn yellow bars lie bare and bright =4 Among the sparkling brine. THE STORY OF DUBLIN EARLY CHRISTIAI SANCTUARIES A cup of bodkin-pencilled clay Clondalkin, Finglas, Swords, Lusk, Christian churches Holds Oscar ; mighty heart and limb One handful now of ashes gray : replaced the old Druidic altars. And she has died for him, The early Irish saints, desirous of solitude, loved to seek their cells far from the haunts of men. In the And here, hard-by her natal bower On lone Ben Edar’s side, we strive islands of Dublin Bay,some of them builttheir With lifted rock and sign of power hermitages. There,hidden away in the wilderness, To keep her name alive. they were happy beyond the thoughts of man. This That while from circling year to year is howan Irish hermit of that agesang of his joy Her Ogham-lettered stone is seen, in his lonely dwelling :- The Gael shall say : “ Our Fenians here Entombed their lovedAideen.” I wish, O Son of the Living God, O ancient eternal King, Cù Samuel Ftwguson. For a hidden little hut in the wilderness An all-grey lithe littlelark to be by its side, At the foot of Carrickmore precipice, overhanging A clear pool to wash away sins through the Grace Howth demesne,Aideen’s cromlech stands : of the Holy Spirit. A beautiful wood around it on every side, A clear pure air pervades the scene, . To nurse many-voiced birds, hiding it with ita shelter. In loneliness and awe secure I A pleaeant church and with the linen altar cloth, a Meet spot to sepulchre a queen dwelling for God from Heaven, Who in her life was pure. Then, ahdgcandles above the pure white scriptures Raiment and food for me from the King of far fame, And I to be sitting for a while praying God in every CHAPTERIV place. St. Begnet built the abbey on Dalkey Island ; St. EARLY CHRISTIAN SANCTUARIES IN Nessan built on Inis Faithleann, the Grassy Isle, or as COUNTYDUBLIN it was afterwards known, Inis Mac Nessan, isle of the sonsof Nessan, or as the Danescalled it, Ireland’s THEplain watered by the Dodder and the Liffey, “ Oe,” or Island. Here some nameless monk made a and between the mountains and the sea,was beautiful copy of the Gospels, called “ The Garland a pleasant, fertile land, like the basinof the Boyne of Howth.” Men swore on this precious book their and Blackwater-asattractive to monks and tillers word of honour to keep treaties and contracts, and of the soil as it was afterwards to greedy strangers. so it passed from generation to generation, a holy After Patrick’s coming, the Cdtic chiefs gave over treasured relic,escaping the fire and water of the the Druidic strongholds tothe disciples of Christ. destroying Danes, until finally it found a home in At Killiney and Rathmichael, at Howth, DaLey, Trinity College Library. 16 17 THE STORY OF DUBLIN As you stand amid the rocks and ruins of Nessan S old church, and the sea-windwhistles tllrough the weird wds, listen to the voices of the past, and let time unroll its pictures before you. There-it will seem-before a bench in the cloister sits a young monk, the white parchment spread before him, coloured inksbeside him, his hand

#3&4-- .

T+ins at Ratbmicbacl, Shankill. (From a Sk&h made in 1840 & W. F. W’demun.~ Here a typical group of Celtic church buildi existed in ancient times close to the large rab from which the placeZrives its name, and trace; of which are still to be seen. delicately, patiently tracing the twistings and turnings of birds in flight, or the climbing tendrils of creeping plants, or the starry beauty of the fieldflowers, in and out through the’ letters on his page. It is Nessan’s copy of the Gospels, destined to be the sacred treasury of men’s honour down through the centuries. St. Fintan settled on the south side of Howth Head, and hismonastery, like all the others built on the 18 THE STORY OF DUBLIN islands, and along the coast, was doomed to de structinn by the Danes. buried, and the place took ‘Its nami fiom their St. Conice, founder of Kilkenny, passed this way, and misfortune, the “ flag or tombstone of the plague.” left his memory behind in the famous Abbeyof Finglas, Their burial mounds are scattered over the hills not far from theHurdle Bridge. At Glasnevin, hereabouts. It was a wide, open plain, into which Naeidhe’s streamlet, St. Mobhi built his cell. Agreat half a dozen passes dropped from the Wicklow schoolgrew up, and many students were attracted Hills, and when St. Maelruan saw it in the eighth hither, amongst them Columcille, Ciaran, and Comgall. century, he judged the situation good for the foun- One evening Columcille and his two comrades dation of a monastery. Very soon a school grew up climbed the Hill of Howth, and standing there near around his church, and the monasterybecame one Criffan’s fort, his rapt face looking seawards, Colum- of the most famous in Ireland, rival of Armagh itself. cille had a vision, a star shining over a cross set large It was here that Angus the Culdee, author of the in the heavensabove Iona. A shimmering mist of Felire or Martyrology of Irâsb Saints, toiled like a light descends upon the three, a glory as of Mount beast of burden on the farm, at the barn or the kiln, Tabor. Figures of saints-Patrick, Bridget, and hidden and unknown, while the men of Clonenagh many more-rise up around them. The Druidic searched far and wide for their beloved saint, It demonsscreech despairingly from the blackoak- was through a little boy, to whombthe old labourer groves of Killiney -and Shsnganagh. The light taught his lessons one day, that the secret of Angus follows the saints as they descend the hill in the was discovered. There was an end to his retirement. direction of Glasnevin. Abbot Maelruan brought him to the Tech Scriptia, When they reach the Toba, itis in flood, black and the House of Manuscripts, where he produced many treacherous. The students’ cells are on the south of the works which have made his name famous. side, but the chapel is on the north side. The bell RJics of St. Maelruan, his cross and font are still calls them to Vespers, but no one dares to cross the ro be seen in the old churchyard at Tallaght. rushing torrent, saveonly Columcille who, trueto On the road to Clondalkin youpass Kilmainham, his name, dove of the Church, leaps daringly across. the Church of Maighnenn, on a height overlooking The ancient plain of Moynalty,” the old green thc Liffey, founded about A.D. ‘600,and still standing “ plain of the flocks,” lying between Tallaght and in the time of BrianBoru. St. Mochua built his Howth, was the home of the earliest settlers in ..hrtrch at Chain Dolcain,Clondalkin, on the Eiscir Ireland. Near Tallaght, on a grassy spot beside ridge, on the site of an ancient rath, overlooking the murmuring Dodder, the first invaders, the reaches of fertile land, When the Danes passed this WRY they left the place a heap of smoking ruins ; but * The same name is preserved in Moynalty (‘l the plain of the flocks ”) in Meath. likc other monasteries, this one was rebuilt, and a 21 EARLY CHRISTIAN SANCTUARIES THE STORY OF DUBLIN Another Round Tower was built at Swords, or Round Tower raisedbeside it, for the protection Sord (“ pure spring-well ”), to protect the church of the monks and people. founded here by St. Columcille in the year 550. In the graveyard are the, remains of the ancient A.D. St. Columcille. appointed St. Finian, the Leper, as church and anold font fashioned from a granite abbot of his monastery, and he founded a hospital for lepers here, Spital Hill, north of the Castle, still keeps the memory of that saint’s charity. St. Columcille’s well is Columcille’s well near the village. I At Lusk, St. .Macculin founded hisabbey. He died in 496, and was buried here in a vault, which is in Irish, Zusca, and hence the name,Lusk. In the saga of Cuchullain this place iscalled the Garden of Lugh, and is celebrated as being the home of Emer, the Ulster champion’swife. Here, too, a Round Tower was built to defend the church from Danish attacks, and a village of woodenbeehive huts clustered round the church and tower. The five daughters of Lenin built themselves an oratory on a bare cliff of rocks-above the sea, in a place I haunted by the ghosts of Druids and Druidic victims, 3 place ever afterwards known as Killiney (dl-ingbin- Lenin). At Rathmichael, Apgus Mac Tail gavehis rath for the erection thereon. of a Christian church and monastery. He gave lands for the use of the monks, whichwefe - marked off by termon, or boundary, crosses. This church had its Round Clondal& Round Tower. Tower, though only the baseof it remains now. A good specimen of its class : 84 feet high; 45 feet in cl.cumference at the base - walls 3 feet thick door 15 feet bmthe ground. The It is still possible in the churchyard to reconstruct part of the ktructure below the hoor is a solid mass of masonry. in one’s mind the ancient church, with its low, boulder. The Danes had a fort here called Dunawly, rquare-headed doorway, its narrow opening for light Aulaff’s fort, a baseof attack against the Irish. Not at the south-west end, its belfry ; the tall, graceful, far away is Saggart, site of an ancient Celtic monastery, c-onc-shaped Round Tower rising above, a seven-foot called in the seventh century Tassagart, or Teach Sacra. wall around the enclosure, and a carvedgateway. 22 I 9

THE STORY OF DUBLIN THE DRUIDS IN CO. DUBLIN from the altar, and the priests prostrated them- CHAPTER.V dves in homage to their pagan gods. (Another few years, and their temple was forsaken, THE DRUIDS IN COUNTY DUBLIN. and their druidic creed was overthrown by the

" The Druids I " sad-,mysterious word, Whence comes that meaning unexpressed, Which every Celtic pulse hath stirred, Rousing old thoughts in brain and breast ? Dear was the name to our first sires, Dear every symbol of their line ; Awe-struck they saw their altar-fires And deemed their mystic chaunts divine. -T. D. M&sa.

was the eve of Samhain in the year A.D. 432. IT Dark shadows lay on the hills around Kilhney, and broodedmenacingly over the blackoak-groves of Shanganagh. The sea-birdshrieked from Killiney Bay, and fled from the zone of terror which the Druids had shed around that mysticplace. The waters of Glen Druid moaned aloud as if in pain. In the depth of the forest there was a great space, which was cleared and girt all round by trees. In the midst was a circle of stones. Within the circle was a temple, roughly hewn, open to the four winds of heaven. In the centre stood a rudealtar of S&br Illrrminatinl a Boot. mountain granite; deeply inscribed with a circle, (Frm a Manusnipt sn th British ilfusgurn.) and a segment of a circle, representing the sun and moon, the gods of the ancient Irish. Several stone cvmquering Christian Gospel ; yet, at a thousand chairs-were-grouped about the altar. ycarr' distance, their altars still stand, at Glen Druid, Outside inthe forest the people watched and MI Shanganagh, at Kilternan, in County Dublin, and waited. A procession of white-robed priests entered rl many other places throughout Ireland. the temple, chanting their unearthly hymns. 'Ihc great stone " altars " found in these places . m Suddenly, and as at a given signal, flames leapt up calledCromlechs, which word means either the -. 24 25 Some ornaments, Celts, orstone axes andspear- W

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CHAPTERVI

~ ----_- -... L.YYWI DANISH.DUBLIN river-flowed into the sea. On the hill a straggkr-6YUU Kroup of wattle huts‘ lookeddown on the bog-dal,. the old Irish tale of Mesgedra, as sungby Sir rb IN waters of the ~001. S. Ferguson, it is told how when an Ulster poet, r - --- Atharna, sent by his master, Connor Mac Nessa, to The Danesdrew up their shallow boats at a 26 27 THE STORY OF DUBLIN I DANISH DUBLIN landing-place which they called the Steyn, at the station beside the hurdle bridge became the centre spot which now marks the junction of Hawkins I of a Danish kingdom, stretching from the Hebrides Street and Townsend Street. ’ andOrkneys to Southern Ireland. It was a con- Just where the rush of thetide was checked at ’ venient port of callfor Danish ships cruising through the “ Dam ” (which gave its name to Dame Street), ’ the - narrow watersbetween Great near what long afterwards became the site of the ’ Britain and -Ireland. oldHouse of Parliament, the Danes builttheir One by one the Dublin monasteries AssemblyHouse. “ A circular moat, bearing on its ’ fellbefore them : Lambay first, then summit the king’s seat, and below, and in ordered 1 Finglas,Glasnevin, Tallaght, Clon- tiers or steps, the seats of hiskingly sons, his earls dalkin, Lu&, and Swords, until all and noblemen according totheir degrees.” Close l Bregia and Cualann laydesolate. At to the Thing Mote, or Assembly House, where St. ClondaUrin, Aulaff, the Dane, built a Andrew’s Church now stands, they raised their pagan fortress caUed Dunawly, to hold the temple tothe god Thor. On the hill,overgrown country here in check. At Dalkey, with hazels and willows, the site of Dublin Castle, Howth, and Ireland’s Eye-places to the Danes builttheir fort, fromwhich they were which they gave Danish names-the

able to command the mainroad from Leinster to foreigners constructed raths in the Irish , Tara and the North-a highway well-known in Irish fashion, and raised forts of defence. history. The particular race of foreigners who The Danes were world-rovers ; they had raided &:t settled in Dublin were Fin Gall, ~ovnrcdcr~t. the coasts of Fracce and Germany, sailed up the or “White strangers,” from Norway. Prehistoric Rhine and the Rhone ; they had plundered and ’ They seized North Dublin, as being the ;zz&m:; pillaged, fought and traded in every European tichestland, and it was calledFingal dea- mount- ed on &od, as country before they settled down in the Scotch Isles ,Iftcr them. Then came theDubh used by the and on the Irish coast. From the Orkneys and the ( hl1 or “ Black strangers,” from Den- inhab‘- Hebrides they despatched fleets to Irdand, to ravage wrk, who fought theFin Gall, the islandmonasteries, and return home with the !M:lIachi, the Ard Ri, drove both from Dublin. Then booty. In 841 they came here to remain ; they rhc two foreign races united under Olaf the White, raised their fortified stations as bases of attack upon rd reconquered their old station by the Liffey. the natives at. Dublin, and at Annagassen in Louth. ‘l’hDubhgaII-from which the name Doyle derives From Annagassen they crossed the country to Clon- wttled around Howth, Baldoyle, and South Dublin. macnoise, and from Dublin they raided the interior A large tract near Rathmichael belonged to the sons as far as the Slieve Bloom mountains. The fortified of Turgesius, iden tified with the great Norse hero 28 29

THE STORY OF DUBLIN HOWTH andKilliney glimmering in the faint haze yonder, A deer flashes past, and the Fianna followon its and the throL of the restless waves droning below, track. Horns blow, hounds yelp,horsemen shout the vision of the past naturally arises before the chedy. It is not 80 long since they buried Aideen, mind'seye. The heroes of olden times Oscar's wife, under the cromlechdown yonder ; but the Fianna are men of war, giant hearts, that Peopled the hollow dark,like burning stars, '' And T heard sounds of insult, shame and wrong, ever with a frolic welcometook the sunshine and Andtrumpets blown for wan ; the storm." And clattering flints battered with clanging hoofs ; m.g And I SW crowds in column'dsanctuaries ; . . . A mist sweeps over the sea, and when it lifts a And high shrine doors burst thro' with heatedblasts procession of white-robed monks is trailing up the That run before thc flutteringtongue of fire, mountain-side. One at their head, with shining White surf wind-scattered over sails and masts, Andever climbing higher. face and rapt eyes,bears aloft a cross. As they -TTsrr+zyson. climb upwards to St. Fintan's littlestone oratory, they chant : .. .. me of the shimmering mist arisesan immense Pagan Power is over Out False its fair dewtion, rampart, like a bended bow,pierced with gateways God rules, Lord and Lover, and defended by a moat. A red fire blazes from Earth and Sky and Ocean. the peak, and around it stands a grave company of watching warriors. Down the hill appears a mighty As their forms disappear round the hill, a rumbling host-giganticspearmen and warhorses, flashing noiseshakes the mountain, and weirdsounds tear chariots and weapons. Inthe midst rides a noble the still air. A long line of dragon-prowed ships champion, the brat or cloak of a king about him, ride up the quiet waters of the bay, a winding line a round, golden brooch upon hisbreast. It is of iron-winged, horn-shaped helmets bend over their Criffan returning, victory-flushed, to his fortress on flashing oars, keeping time to their dreadful war- Ben Edar. song : ..em.* .. Purple wings our ships expand O'er the-flecktand flowing wave I The scene shifts. A voicesings loudly :- "id the masts the champions stand Finn Mac Cool is the father of me, Fit for foray, mild and brave. Whom seven battalions of Fenians fear ; When he launches his hounds on the open sea,

Grand is their cry as they rouse the deer. ' 32 THE STORY OF DUBLIN HOWTH at the north side of Howth, opposite Ireland's Eye. vikings settled down and became Christians, and took Sir Tristram wielded his great sword with such undisputed possessionof Hod peninsula. They dreadful eflect that the Danes were swiftly defeated, built a church here in 1042, and dedicated it to the and the Norman knight was proclaimed undisputed Blessed Virgin. master of Howth. The same great sword is Fe- served in Howth Castle to this day. Giving thanks to St. Lawrence, whose name he now adopted, Sir Tristram climbed the hill, and selected a site for his future castle. Where the martello tower now stands at the head of the east pier he found an old Irish rath, and a-top of this he pitched his tent. A stream flowedclose by, and here he decided to build a chapel. At a later date, in place of &e old wooden castle, a large battlemented building was reared on the rock. From the round moat surrounding it rose high and massivewalls, above which peered a multitude of watch-towers. The keeneyes of the bowmen kept constant watch behind the numerous loop-holes. At the angles of the walls stood four towers, which served for hurling missiles of all kinds upon the foe, to keep him aloof from the body of the building. A single drawbridge crossed the moat, and made way from the fortress to the surrounding Built towards the end of the seveoteentl' century with towersu woods. St. Lawrence had need of a strong fortress ta date ftwn the eleventh century atanding ?n the site of the os and a safe retreat for, almost alone of all the Norman Church of St. wchan, founded by be Danes m 1095. lords, his family had remained isolated from the Irish On a fated day the Norman ships sailed the narrow people,aliens in language, laws, and customs. They seas between England and Ireland, and landed hadbecome swórn enemies of the Irish and loyal Sir John de Courcy and SirAlmeric Tristram knights of the EnglishKing. In 1455 the lord of with their mail-cladfollowers at Howth.On St. Howth was one of the King's Counsel at Dublin, Lawrence's Day the Danes met them at Evora charged to supervise the building of bridges at Lucan, bridge-head, where the stream flows intothe sea Kilmainham, and other fords by which " the Irish 34 35 1 . ,.

a THE STORY OF DUBLIN HOWTH churlishlp during dinner-hQur, at which time, through- enemies and Englishrebels were wont to cross the out the rest of Ireland, they were wont to be open. Liffey by night, to descend on Fingal, and to rob, She gave back the boy, on condition that the gates destroy, and kill the King’s liege people.” Howth of the castle be thrown open during dinner-hour, harbour gave due protection to the landing of men and that aplace bealways laid for strangers. So like Richard, Duke of York, and Sir Edward Poynings. she taught the Irish lesson of hospitality to the St. When Silken Thomas rebelled, Lord How& lent his Lawrence family,arid they made a painting of the aid to crush the Geraldine, and the O’By-rnes and event and hung it in the hall. Some years later, in O’Tooles wreaked summary vengeance upon his strong 1589, Christopher, Lord of Howth, was laid to rest fortress of Howth. This did not prevent St. Lawrence besidehis lady in the old Collegiate Church above from taking an active partin the warfareagainst the sea. The tomb stands in the nave to this day, Shane O’Neill, stimulated, no doubt, byhis recent the knight in his suit of armour, his feet resting on change of religion. There cameaday when the adog, the lady with her pleated gown and horned Sea Queen of the West, Grania Uaile, rode in her head-dress. galley intoHowth harbour, and sought hospitality By the sixteenth century Howth had become one from the lord of the castle. She went into the long of the most important towns of the county. Dublin street, between the overhanging gables and upon the got all its supply of herrings from Howth, and the steep path tothe ancient fortress. She was tall, fishing trade was so big that a quay was built for the slender and lissom, with the forehead and bearing of use of passengers and mercantile traffic. The fisher- aqueen. A white kirtle, fringed with gold thread, men lived in thatched houses scattered about under fell to her feet, and a silver brooch pinned ‘her red the shadow of the castle.Verp probably theyhad mantle across her breast. Her retinue came behind little sympathy with the ways of their lord, and when her. The fishermen stood about in groups, gazing one fine day in the year 1592 a Spanish pirate ship curiously at the strangers. sailed into their waters and bore off two English Her clansmen came forward and smote upon the vessels, they did not start the hue-and-cry, or make gateway, but no answer came. Inside, the lords and any attemptat pursuit. Probably some of them ladies of the castle were making merry over their were ‘forced to serve him in hisraids upon the dinner, and no one heard the stranger at the gates. O’Bymes of Wickloyv, 1594 and 1595, or against the The Queen grew angry, and seeing a little winsome O’Moores and O’Connors of Leix and Offaly, or boy playing with his nurse, she took him with her to upon his march with Essex into Ulster. Some the boats. Hardly had they reached the shore when may have fought under him on the English side at St. Lawrence’s menovertook them. The lord him- Tyrrdspass or Kinsale.Yet, with all his loyalty to selfwas wild with fear and rage for the loss of his England, the lord of Howth was puzzled as to his heir. Grania Uaile askedwhy were the doors closed 36 37 THE STORY OF DUBLIN DALKEY their real nationality : “ I am sorry,” saidhe, “ that country, and trade broughtincreased profit when I . am inEngland I shallbe esteemed as to Irish ports. The ships of Bretons,Spaniards, anIrishman, and in Ireland anEnglishman.” The French,and Scots sailed into thesewaters. Irish Howth fishermenvery liiely got plenty of chances harbours traded with Chester, Gloucester, Chepstow, to help their rebel countrymen of Wicklow or Leix and Bristol, as wd as with continental ports. A great and Offaly-as they helped the Royalist rebels of Wexford during the Cromwellian wars by carrying their despatches in boats,between Hod and Holyhead. During the eighteenth century they wereengaged in smuggling, as the cavesconcealed here and there about the rocks on the coast and on Ireland’s Eye gave them fine facilities for unloading and storing illicit cargoes.

CHAPTERVI11 DALHEY-THE PORT OF THE’SEVEN CASTLES u4 Korman Castle of Je Twcvth Cenruv. Bullock COsUe, Co. Dublin, H-aized and orell pmx.wed; evidently amstructad to protect Bullock harbour, the little lnlet wMch it opar lonks, between Drmleary and my, number of Saxon coins discovered hidden ín an ald gatewayhere gives strong evidence that the place was a very ancient port. The Normans were quick to note the advantages

of Dalkey harbour, I the one sheltered creek between Wexfordand Carlingford, and they built strong castles here to protect so important a port. In 1176 Hugh De Lacy granted this place, with DalkeyIsle, . to the See of Dublin, a gift which was confirmed by Prince John and subsequently by Pope Clement 39 ,I

DALKEY THE STORY OF DUBLIN sheep and-cattle. They got plenty of fish from the the Third. In 1206 the Archbishop of Dublin had coast and plenty of game from the neighbouring a graut of a Wednesday market here and an annual mountains. They had to .raise 200 -men-at-arms fair, to be held on St. Begnet's Day, with such tolls for the English wars against the Irish. and customs as the Mayor and Bailiffsof Dublin seven fairs were held here everyyear, besides had, the same to be applied and spent upon building markets, and the Bailiff levied and received and repairing the walls and fortifications -af the the samecustoms that werelevied by the Mayor town. of Dublin from au kinds of merchandise sold at Southwards lay the impenetrable fortresses these fairs and markets. of I-- the Wicklow tribes. If the English wished to secure Ualkey must have been a very busy place in these safe passage for their merchants' ships, carrying food times ; its old. 'walls must have witnessedmany and comfort tothe Bristol settlers of Dublin, and stirring sights. Merchants from Bristol, Gloucester, men and arms to their new castle,they were compelled and Chepstow walked through its fairs-merchants to build strong fortifications around the one trust- dressed in close tunics faced with miniver, hanging worthy harbour. Theybuilt sewen castles around sleeves,hoods, a large purse at the girdle and a the town and defended the south side by a moat short dagger ìnthe belt. nye, too, wakedthe or ditch. The entrance tothe westwas through burghers in their long furred gowns ; soldiers, a gateway, flanked by two castles. The English ships maildad Normans withglittering helmets and landed their cargoes of merchandise on the common, lances, from which the narrow pennons floated in and sent them to the castles,where they could be the breeze ; Irish kern with saffrontunics, woollen stored in safety from the raids of the Wicklow trews and long nakedSkene. Tall war-steeds cur- mountaineers, until they wereconveyed to Dublin, vetted along th;&, narrow ways-heavy chargers, on the road to which other castleswere built to mounted by knights in shining armour and plumed ensure their safety in the passage.Between the helmets. coast and the town a strong causeway was built, Upon the castle watch-tower and along the across whichgoods were carried from the ships to ramparts the sentinels held their dailywatch, and the castles. looked out beyond the wd-wooded plains of In the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries Dalkey Merrion,Fingal, Clontarf, and Sutton, to where town was a huddle of little dark streets, shadowed the craggyhead of' Ben Edar was thrust out into by its own waUs and by the great towers of its seven the sea, or looked,perhaps, beyond the black grim protecting castles. The houses were of wood ide of St. Begnet and the granite coast of with projecting windows, the gables fronting the Ddearp,to where the mountains lay like the narrow street. Onthe commons, adjoining the ramparts of a fortress on the dark horizon ; at any town, -onthe east side, the inhabitants grazed their .

1 THE STORY OF DUBLIN THE NORMANS IN DUBLIN moment these hills mightstart into life with the skirl of the war-pipesand thetramp of marching men, eager for a foray. -.

CHAPTER€X THE NORMANS IN DUBLIN IN Celtic times the present CountyDublin extended into two provinces. The northern half stretched into Bregia, part of Meath ; the southern half, Cualann, formed part of Leinster. In St. Patrick’s time this land was mostlycom- posed of mountain, swamp, and forest. The Liffey and its marshescovered the surrounding country. A mile or so up the river a dry, peaty ridge pro- jected, facing a darkpool. Here the Danes had encamped and made a settlement, fencing it round first with a stockade, later with walls and towers. Three hundred years laterthe Norman knights stormed the walledtown, and defeated the united efforts of the Irish and Danes. Their king, Henry II., anxious to secure what hisbarons had gained, came later on, and they set up a palace of osiertwigs for him on top of the Danish Thing -- beside the modern St. Andrew’s Church. Old Ci9 WaII and South Front of Cade. M&, a POdm of the old dt walla at the entrance to Dublin He invited the Irish chiefs hither to Christmas castle the S%pstreet Gate. greetings. They drank his his wine and ate feast years after, the same king granted the Bristolmen with a hearty good-will, as they would at thebanquet of Dublin their charter “ of freedom from toll and a neighbouring chieftain, but with no thoughts of all cu~tomsfor themselves and their goods through of submission to a foreigner. his entire land of England, Normandy, Wales, and Going home, the king made a gift to his subjec Ireland.” I. 4 43 THE STORY OF DUBLIN The Normans of the twelfthcentury were very powerful enemies. They had the same desire for power and plunder as the Norsemen, from whom I "he Irish wereunskilled in the Norman science they were descended. They had a wide experience of warfare. They were at the same stage of military of warfare, gained in battlefields f-rom England to development as a century and a haIf before. Their Jerusalem ; they had fought' against all sorts of lightly clad kern could hardly be expected to stand opponents, English, Franks, Greeks, Saxons, learning the charge of mailed knights and expert archers, the best points of each, and working all into a , orto carry a seventy-foot wallby storm. Their only system suitable to their own conditions. chance ofsuccess lay in greatly superior numbers, A Norman army consisted of a small number of or skilfulchoice of ground. The Normans had the heavy cavalry and a large number of infantry. The advantage here, as they had elsewhere in Europe, cavalry was made up of knights, esquires, and men- and they quicklyproceeded to makeof Ireland at-arms-man and horse both in full suit of chain- " one trembling sod." mail. The vastbulk of the infantry werearchers. Dublin was marked out as the capita.!, because A Norman battle- was opened by the archers who it was most central, and because it was situated discharged showers of arrows on the foe ; when the in an angle of the'great central plain,which was latter was in confusion, the mailed horsemen cbarged the vital area of Ireland. De Lacy secured Dublin in and finished the attack. When the Normans and the rich river basinsof the Boyne and Liffey, conquered an important point-a ford over a river, I the fair plains of Meath and Bregia,byenclosing a town ina gap between the mountains-they them within a ring of castles, thus definitely en- immediately built a castle to secure that paesage suring control of the territory. "The Boyne was for themselves. The size and strength of the castle fixed ,on as the most suitable military frontier, and was proportionate to the importance of the place- was secured, from the sea up, by castles at Slane, some of these in Ireland were only powerful earth- Ardbraccan, Trim, and Kinnegad ; leftward, the works. Each castle served as a defence to halt the line was prolonged by the castle at Durrow, half march of an army, as a base where suppliescould a dozenmiles south of the Westmeath lakes. Kells, becollected, and whenceraids could start, and as eight miles from Ardbraccan, was a strong network a refugewhen the foragerswere compelled to pushedforward towards the hills of Cavan, and retreat. In this way aterritory was dominated by Skreen, five miles south-east of Navan, was centrally a system of powerful forts with relatively small placed to reinforce Trim, Ardbraccan, or Slane, garrisons. Individually, each castle was capable besides being a connecting link with the second line. of a prolonged siege, to reduce the entire number This second line was a semi-circlebetween the was beyond the power of a feudal army ; they could Liffey and the sea at half a dozen miles from the 44 45 THE STORY OF DUBLIN ‘THE BLOODY FIELDS at Dublin, and for over threehundred years they city-thecastles being at Castleknock, Santry, and tormented and ravaged the lowlands about the city. Clontarf. None of these castles was over a dozen The first raid took place on Easter Monday, miles from the next one to it, and it is unnecessary 1209. The Bristd merchants areout holiday=making to emphasise thestrength of such a system inthe in Cullenswood. The birch trees are in leaf, flat conditions of Irish warfare atthat day.” banners of tender green, from Rathgar and Rath- Dublincounty was bridled with castles south- mines ; the blackbirds tune their merry notes from wards, as a barrier against the Wicklow mountains, the parklikeglades of Kenilworth and Ranelagh ; along the toast-line, and northwards to meet i.n Cullenswood the lime trees are bursting into bloom. the Boyne. OQ the grasr, beneath the trees, the merchants and traders from Brisd are making merry over their CHAPTER meat and wine. X Suddenly, with &ir1of war-pipes, clattering of THE BLOODY FIELDS horse-hoofs, andwith hue and cry and flashing battleaxes, the men of Tir-Cden are upon them. The dansmen, evicted from their ancient and rightful SOUTHWARDS from Dublin lay the strong- city Dublin, execute swift justice with their trusty hold of the Leinster Gael, the dense woods of battleaxes upon the astonished Bristdians. Then and precipitous mountains ofWicklow. The- hills- swiftly.they flyback again to the shelter their menwho dwelt here, sufficient to themselves, were of mountains, leaving a trail of blood and fire behind. accustomed to raid upon the cattle-owners of the The smiling glades Cdenswood are turned into a central plain, who tried to extract tribute from them. of shamble, and ever afterwards will be known to all On the eastern flank of the hills between the moorland the frightened- citizens of Dublin as “ The Bloody and the sea, a fertile strip of land, runs from Bray Fields,” dreadful scene of the hillsmen’svengeance. Head down to BannowBay, sheltered from the Henry of London, Archbishop and Viceroy of the western storms, and providing grass for cattle. Over English king, hurried on with the building of the this important coastland, the men who held the castle, and by its four square walls dominated mountains held also the approaches from the sea. 1228 the town. At -the Same time, the citizens-new The Normans might camp at Arklow and Wicklow settlers from Bristol, Flanders, Wales and England and Newcastlealong the shore, butthe difficult --made an organised effort to strengthen the forti- country lying inland from Bray Head cut off their fications of the town. After these dorts,the communications with the settled port of Dublin. citizens of Dublin felt themselves mote =cure from v From their eyries inthe mountains the Gaels of the raids of the monntaineers. Wicklow kept stern watch upon the foreign settlement 46 47 THE STORY OF DUBLIN

3 P CHAPTERXI

SOME NORMAN MONASTERIES

WHENEVER the Norman soldiers,conquered they built monasteries and churches as well as castles, and settled Norman monks therein. Atthe time the Normans first came over here, 3 St. Bernard had preached the Holy War against the Turks, and the Crusading fervour was at its height in Europe. Two famous Orders of military monks had arisen out of the Crusading movement, and had monasteries everywhere throughout Europe and in the Holy Land. The one was the Knights Hospitallers of St. John, that was formed for the reliefof poor sick pilgrims to Jerusalem. The other was that of the Knights Templars, formed to defend pilgrims on their way to Jerusalem from the attacks of the Moslems. They were assigned quarters in the King’s, Palace at Jerusalem, on the site of Solomon’s Temple, ’hencethe name Templars. This Order was afterwards suppressed, thoughthe Order of St. John still exists. The monks of St. John came herein the wake of the Norman Conqueror, and were given the rich water meadowson each side of the Liffey, a mile above Dublin, and at Maighnenn’s old church, now calledKilmainham, they built their monastery. It was agreat towering minster, halfwood, half stone, with narrow round-headed windows and leaden roofs, and above all the great tower from which a melody ofbells chimed out. Around the 4 THE STORY OF DUBLIN A NORMAN CASTLE OF THE PALE walls of the monastery clustered the barns, granaries, stables, workshops. Inside the monasterybuildings CHAPTERXII were the infirmary, refectory, dormitory, library, abbot’s lodgings, and cloisters. Outside the monastery A NORMANCASTLE OF THE PALE -. walls were the cottages of the poor folk, tenants on the monasticlands. . ,Here the Knights of St. ONE ,of the S-trongestcastles built by the John sang their psalms and entertained soldiers and Normans inCounty Dublin was that at pilgrims on the way to the Holy Land. They had Malahide, founded by Richard Talbot in the reign their warlike exercises, too, and in 1418 their Prior, of Henry II. To the north lay a wilderness of a Peer of Parliament, led a body of them to France forest and scrub;Feltrim Hill-“Faeldruim,” the to help Henry V. in his wars. ridge of the wolves”-still preservesmemories of After the Reformation the Viceroys took up their these wild times ; to the south lay the Wicklow hills official residence here, and in the seventeenth century garrisoned by the Irish tribes. the place reverted to one of its original uses, a The castle was built, a battlemented building of hospital being built- for “ ancient, maimed and stone, surrounded by a deep moat filled with water. infirm officers and soldiers.” This was crossed by a bridge which could be drawn The Knights Templars were givenlands in Clontarf, up when the castle was attacked, leaving no way and there they built their monastery on the site of of getting across. The doorway was further pro- the present castle. At that time the North Strand tected by a grating of heavy planks, called the was under water, and there was only a rough portcullis, which could be quickly dropped down hurdle-track along the shore.Ballybough Road to close the entrance. Two slender ‘‘ drum ” was the highway to Malahide, until the Annèsley towers flanked the entrance gate. Over the square Bridge was built in 1797. The Knights Templars entrance porch a quadrangular hole was cut in the

hadanother castle a at Baldongan,which, on the arched roof. This was the “ murthering hole,” suppression of their Order, passed tothe De made. for the defence of the entrance. Beneath Berminghamfamily, and from them to the Howth one of,, the tower8 a round-headed gateway led family. When the Order of Knights Templars was into the spacious courtyard or bawn of the castle. suppressed, Clontarf was given tothe KGghts The cattle belonging tothe lord were kept here of St. John, and was surrendered tothe Crown at night, and during troubled times the tenants drove their cattle in to protect them from ,the raids of the Irish tribes. Inside the ruined abbey is the .altar-tomb of Mau4 Plnnkett, the heroine of Griflin’s ballad of 50 51 THE STORY OF DUBLIN THE MANORS OF THE ARCHBISHOP

" The Bridal of Malahide,"whose husband fell in tothe king inthe shape ofsome service. As the a fray immediately after the celebration of his barons could not cultivate their large estates them- marriage, thus making her maid, wife, and widow selves, they let them outto sub-tenants, who, in in one day. their turn, were bound to render service to the lord of the fief. These sub-tenants became the great But, oh J for the maiden who mourns for that chief, With heart overladen and rending with grief I men in the different parishes, and had large powers She sinka on tbe meadow :-in onc morning-tide, over the tillers of the soil. Under them were free A wife and a widow, a maid and a bride. tenants who paid ground rent for their holdings, Over the tomb of Maud Plunketther imagerests, along withother tributes on stated occasions. carved in the costume of the fifteenth century. Besides these were the " natives," tillers of the soil, slaves belonging to the manor and the lord, in the same wayas the cattle on the land. CHAPTERXII1 .When the Normansseized Dublin and Wexford, their king, Henry II., came here to claim his. THE MANORS OF THE ARCHBISHOP OF " overlordship " of the land conquered by his lords. .DUBLIN - Several Irish chiefs submitted to him, and the Ard Ri made peace and friendship with him. Henry old Irish land system was different from gave the Province of Meathin trust to De Lacy, TH:he old English land system. In Ireland Leinster to Strodgbow, the City of Dublin to the the land belonged tothe people, who chose their Bristol merchants. De Courcy claimed Ulster, and own chiefs and kings. The country was divided Raymodd Le Gros Munster. The Englishking had into two hundred tuaths or territories, each occupied no right, except the right of conquest, to the lands by a tribe under a chosen chief. The richer farmers which he divided among his followers. His followers rented land and stock tothe poorer classes. The had no right to take them, except the right given poor tiller of the ground, however scanty his means, them by the sword. When the Irish princes sub- could not be evicted from his holding. The land was mitted to Henry they were only acknowledging the his by law, and for his stock he paid a yearly rent. might of a greater king, they could not pawn their In England all the land was supposed to belong lands nor the independence of their peoples to tothe king. The kingparcelled itout into tracts him. I of country, and made these over to his lords or De Lacy, having conquered Meath and Dublin, barons. The barons were supposed to hold these proceeded to hold them by armed force. He ringed tracts, called fiefs, as tenants of the king, and in them round with strong castles, garrisoned by return they were expected to make acknowledgment Norm,n mail-cladsoldiers. From these bases he 52 53 THE STDRY OF DUBLIN THE MANORS OF THE ARCHBISHOP tried to reduce the rest of the country. South rivalling Dalkey in importance. The Bishop’s palace Dublin was garrisoned by Walter de Ridelsford was built on a hill, just beyond the village, a great with his casde at Bray,by Milo Le Bret at Rath- square frowning keep and some smaller towers, with farnharn, and Barnwall at Drimnagh. North Dublin a double wall of stone, topped by battlements, round was held by St. Lawrence of Howth and ‘Lord the brow of the hill, and a ditch around all. Here Talbotat Malahide. In the West,’ HughTyrell courts were held, at which the Archbishop’s seneschal was posted at Cnucha’s ancient fort, Castleknock; or steward presided in his master’sabsence, and and the south-west corner, hitherto belonging ‘to dealt out sentences of fife and death to malefactors. the Irish king, Mac Girtlin Mocholmog, was divided Criminals were hanged on Gallows Hill, close to the up into the royalmanors of Saggart, Crudin, churchyard. There was an irregular square in ’the Newcastle. The Celtic monasteries at Tallaght, middle of the town, with a cross of stonein the Clondalkin, Finglas, Swords, Lusk were given to the centre,. where markets were held. At the ringing of

See of Dublin. All the lands hitherto belonging to a 2 bell the people assembled, prayers were read, and Irish chiefs and th& tenants were bestowed on the the market was opened. Once a week the farmers Norman Archbishop of Dublin, Norman monks and brought intheir cattle and sheep. On another day Norman Lnights. poultry was sold. In the season there were corn Sitric’s cathedral, Christ Church, was rebuilt, and markets and grassmarkets for the crops of wheat the ancient community of Danish and Celtic priests and hay. Butthe town did not remain long -at was superseded by the Augustinian friars, who were I peace after the Archbishop’s coming. Edward Bruce’s endowed with the lands of Glasnevin and Grange- 4 soldiers,on their march to Dublin, besieged the gorman. The old Danish Abbe7 of St. Mary’s, castle and wrecked the people’shomes. founded between 948 and 1038, at first was in the .When Miles de Cogan led his forces againstDublin, possession o€ Cistercians when the Noms arrived he encamped outside the village of Finglas, at that here. The lands of CicdiBe, Modstown and Kiq- tim$ protected by a strong stockade, Here the town wem given to &S Abbey. The Priory of AU Archbishop of Dublin had another manor, and here Hallom, founded by Dermot Mac Mvrrough before he stayed on his hunting expeditions. The Baron . the coming of the Normam, held the lands of of Castleknock held the lands of Cabragh. Baldoyle and Drumcondia. On the borders of what was then a wild mountain On the wooded lands around Swords, three des tract at Tallaght, whence the Dodder flows down to from Malahide, the. fint Norman Archbishop of the sea, the Archbishop of Dublin built his castle. Dublin had his manor built about A.D. 1200. Under Here, on the site of the plague-graves and beside the cue of the Archbishop the old Celtic settle- St. Maelruan’s Celtic abbey, the Notman castle ment of ColauncUe soon kame a Norman tom, went up. It was surrounded by a deep ditch, filled 54 55 THE MANORS OF THE ARCHBISHOP with water by a stream from the Jobstownriver. A mill was built beside the manor, and tradesmen of all kindscame to live near the Archbishop’s household. This castle was not erected till after the Bruce invasion in the fourteenth century, butthe O’Byrnes and O’Tooles gave no peace to the settlers. Encouraged by the early successes of Edward Bruce, they ravaged the country with fire and sword from Arklow to L&. In 1331 the O’Tooles made a raid on the Arch- bishop’s castle at Tallaght. After this a rate was leviedon the town for the support of watchmen paid to give warning of the hillsmen’s approach, and the frontier from Tallaght to Bray was guarded by soldiersplaced at set stations. The O’Tooleswere asked to accept pay to hold the frontier against the O’Byrnes. They accepted, butthe O’Byrnes and O’Nolanswere outin 1378, and the O’Tooles followed their example, a few years later, reappearing, like the “‘scourge of the Lord,” over Tallaght. In these troublous times, the town had its markets and fairslike those of Dalkeyand Swords. The markets were held around the ancient crossof St Maelruan, which stood at the end of the village, on the road to Oldbawn.Coins used in suchtraffic have beendiscovered hereabouts. From the ivy- cladbelfry, beside the old Celtic church, the bells summoned the people to Mass everySunday, until Henry VIII. silenced the voices of all the Mass-bells in Ireland. Every year the folk made merry on St. Maelruan’s day, 7th July, and went on pilgrimage to the saint’s shrine. Their lives cannot have been Old Cig Gan-Sc. Andorn’s Arch. verypeaceful, with the menace of the Wicklow A narrow pawage by the nortp wall of St. Al?dpen’s, leading t? an arch of the aame name, whch IS the only smvmg gate of the aty. 57

l THE STORY OF DUBLIN A BALLAD OF THE PALE tribes hanging like a black shadow over their homes. She was a lovely thing, Tallaght House, which was erected with the materials Fleet as a falcon’swing, belonging to the Archbishop’s ancient castle, belongs Only fifteen that spring- to the Dominican Order. Soft was her soul. . . .

BORDER FORAYS. Hazel and copse ofoak There’s not a turlough, tarn or dell, Made a sweet lawn, From Glen Mac Art to Harold’s Cross, Out from the thicket From Delganie to Crumlin Moss, broke But each ita tale of Mood could tell Rabbit and fawn. Of aht and foray, cattle ta’en Green were the eskers round And dungeons sacked and‘ burned as we!, Sweet was the river’s sound, When Talbot’s en,or Plunkett’s men Dashed in a foray up the Glen; Eastward flat Cruach frowned, And plundered barn and captive hoof, South lay SlieveBawn. And blazing rick and burning roof Told where the children of hayle Had flashed like lightning through the Pale Looking round Barnakiel, And beacons lit, and hurrying out Like a tall Moor, Of Marchmen keen, and nimble scout, of impassioned zeal, And tolling bells, and trumpet calls, Full And burghers hastening to the walls, Peepedbrown Kippure. And bannen on the towers displayed, Dublin in feudal pride Proclaimed how ill Clan Dublin liked And many a hold beside Thro’ guild or ward, Clan Rannal’s raid. Over Fingal presid- Sentinels sure, . CHAPTERXIV Is that a roebuck’s eye A BALLAD OF THE PALE Glares from the green ? Is that a thrush’s cry BY THOMASDAVIS Rings in the screen ? Mountaineers round her sprung, ’Twas- a September day ‘ l Savage their speech and iongue, In Glennasmole, Fierce was their chief and young ; Emmeline Talbot lay I Poor Eplmeline, On a green knoll. 5 S9 58 i THE STORY OF DUBLIN A BALLAD OF THE PALE ‘‘ Hurrah, ’tis TaIbot’s child,” To the chief clung the maid- Shouted the kerne, How could he use his blade ? “ M to the mountains wild, That night uponhim weighed Farragh O’Byrne ! ” Fetter and chain. Like a bird in a net, Strove the sweet maiden yet, Praying and shrieking, “ Let, Oh ! but that night was long, Let me return.” Lying forlorn, Since, ’mid the wassail song, These words were borne- After a moment’s doubt, “ Nathless your tears and cries, Forward he sprung, Sure as the sun shall rise, With hia sword flashing out- Connor O’Bpme dies, Wrath on his tongue. Talbot hath sworn.” ‘‘ Touch not a hair of hers- Dies he who finger stirs ! ” Back fall his foragers, Brightly on Tallaght hill To him she clung. Flashes the sun, Strained at his window-sill, How his eyes run Soothing the maiden’s fears, From lonely Saggart slade Kneeling was he, Down to Tibradden glade, When burst old Talbot’s spears Landmarks of border raid Out on the lea. Many a one. Marchmen all staunch and stout, Shouting their Belgard shout- “Down with the Irish rout, Too well the captive knows Prêt$ d‘accomplir.” Belgard’smain wall Will, to his nakedblows, Shiver and fall, Taken thus unawares, L Ere in his mountain hold Some fled amain; Q, He shall again behold Fighting like forest. bears, Those whose proud hearts are cold, Others werè dahl Weeping his thrall. 60 61 THE STORY OF DUBLIN MEDIEVAL DUBLIN

“ Oh ! for a mountain side, Bucklers and brands ! CHAPTERXV Freely I could have died Heading my bands, MEDIEVALDUBLIN But on a felon tre-”

Bearing a fetter key ’ ABOUT the year 1400 A.D. Dublin was a small By him all silently town, half a mile long and a quarter of a Emmeline stands. mile widel Its woodenhouses were huddled under I the sheltering walls of Christ Church and the Castle. The city walls ran from the river through the present Last rose the castellan, Parliament Street round the Castle tothe top of He had drunk deep- Nicholas Street, and thence between Back Lane Warder and servingman ’ and Francis Street ; the space included was not Still were asleep- much larger thanthe present Stephen’s Green. Wide is the castle-gate, The walls were defended bytowers, and the space Open the captive’s grate, within was knownas the Liberties. The gates Fetters disconsolate were locked every night, and refugeescrowded in, Flung in a heap. seeking shelter from the mountain tribes. Outside the walls green meadows ran from the 9 river intothe country. St. Patrick’s Cathedral, ’Tis an October day built in 1191, lay outside the city, in the hollow of Close by Lough Dan ; the Coombe,beside the river Poddle, onthe site Many a mach lay of St. Patrick’s Celtic church. Many a man. U Atno great distance away the Wicklow tribes had ’Mongst them in gallant mien their mquntain homes, and the inhabitants of Dublin Connor O’Byrne’s seen lived in constant terror of their raids. St. Patrick’s Wedded to Emmeline, belfry was therefore half fortress, half watch-tower, Girt by his Clan ! and battlements ran round the roof andturrets of the cathedral. Its walls were whitewashed. The Archbishop’s palace, St. Sepulchre’s, raised its battle-

#$ mented wallsclose by. The modern PoliceBarracks in Kevin Street contains some of its remains.

- 1 Near the east gate of the town, on the site of 62. $ tg. .-.u 63 THE STORY ‘OFDUBLIN MEDIEVAL DUBLIN the present City Hall, was a church called St. swine wallowed inthe mud. Here, too, public Marie del Dam, for there was a mill-damover executions were carried out, and an O’Toole was the Poddle close by. A path called Dame Lane, burned at the stake for heresy. A prison stood near the Castle gate, and the heads of Irish . rebels blackened on the grim battlements. A grassy lane led up through modern GraftonStreet to St. Stephen’s Hospital, built for lepers in the waste acres that formed the city’s common pasture land. Outside the west gate of the city, Newgate, there was another hospital situatedin St. Thomas . Street, and known as the Priory of St. John the Baptist. It was servedby friars, and by nuns who nursed the sick and spun the vestments for the friars of Thomas Courtand Francis Street. The present Church of St. Augustine is hilt on a portion of the site of this ancient priory. Outside the city, northwards, Salcd’s Wood lay where the present North Circular Roadruns, and was the scene of various engagements between the Dublin citizens and the O’Tooles returning from forays in Fingal. Grangegorman was a manor house rented by Gormao the Dane from the Priory of the Holy Trinity. Around the Manor House a small . village of carters, ploughmen, threshers and lime burners had grown up. Sir Henry Sidnsy. The Danes, as already stated, had set up a long stone or zteyn to mark a landing-place where now w.tsd Lord Deputy in I 65 ahown out of Dublin Castle, he restored after It had %e&allowed% into decay. (m is the junetion of Townsend and Hawkins Streets. ”S ”S Vi4W.) Tlie flat piece of ground extending from the Liffey after the church of St. Marie del Dam, led from strand to the lands of Rath beside the Dodder waa the Castle to AllHallows monastery, St. Mary of called the Steyn or Staine after this stone. Beyond theLittle Hills, built for nuns onHoggen Green, it rose the wallsof the hospital built for leper now College Green. Here thecattle grazed and pilgrims about to visit the shrine of St, Joma at 69 65 THE STORY OF DUBLIN MEDIEVAL DUBLIN Compostella. The tide flowedalong a line from founded long before the coming of the Normans the present Fenian Street byPearse Street and to Dublin. It was in the Council Chamber of this Townsend Street to the Priory of AU Hallows, and Abbey-now part ofBoland’s Bakery-that Silken on to Merrion Square, then a lonely beach. On Thomas defied the king. An ancient image of the theleft side the tide covered the cityfrom the Blessed Virginbelonging to this abbey now stands present North Wall to the North Strand and reached inthe Carmelite Church, Whitefriar Street. The as far as Lower Abbey Street, Lower O’Connel1 Dominican Priory, erected here three years after Street, and Bachelors’Walk. the death of St. Dominic, stood on the site of the On thenorth bankof the river, Oxmantown modern Four Courts. The first building had been Green covered the part nowenclosed between the destroyed to prevent Bruce’s entrance into the city, North Quays and theNorth Circular Road. After and the materials were used to build new walls and the coming of the Normans, the Danes or Ostmen gates, including St. Audoen’s Arch. The monastery retreated here. The place was surrounded with was rebuilt, and the friars erected a college also on vast oakwoods, and the Danes traded extensively Ussher’s Island. A bridge ran across the old Hurdle in timber. The roofof Westminster Hall was built Ford, from Bridge Street to Church Street, and for from oak of these woods. There, with the log cabins centuries it remained the only passageacross the of the Danes huddled roundits base,arose the river. The friars rebuilt it, and a lay-brother took battlemented walls of St. Michan’s old church, built the toll from all passengers. Two fortified and by a Danish king. Its watch-tower looked out west embattled towers stood, one on the south end of the and north over the wide lands of Kildare and Meath. bridge, the other on the west side. Dwelling-hoases The vaults of St. Michan’shave the remarkable and shops lined the space between thè two towers, quality of preserving the bodies laid in them. The and there was room even for a small chapel. cause of this hasbeen the .subject of much con- Situated on the top of the rising ground, which troversy ; it is due, probably, to the extreme dryness commanded the seaward approach to the city, the of the air within, owing to the absorbing power of Castle dominated Dublin, as it dominated the the yellow limestone of which they are constructed. history of Ireland down to the twentieth century. Several mummified bodies m?y be seen, among them It had been built after .the raid of the Widowmen those of the brothers Sheares,who were executed at Cullenswood, “ as well to curb thecity as to for their part in the Rebellion of 1798. defend it.” The walls had a strong tower at each Near the Danish settlement the Cistercian Abbey corner. The entrance gate, which opened into of St. Mary extended from the corner of Chancery l Castle Street, was flanked on eachside by another Street out to theriver and north through East Arran tower. A moat filled with water ran all around the Street,Green Street, and HenriettaStreet. It was sides. The .lower walls were lit by loopholes, behind 66 67 THE STORY OF DUBLIN MEDIEVAL DUBLIN which sharp-shooting archers picked off the leaders “ its markets stored by strangers with coal and fruit in a besieging party. The gateway, defended by a and wine, carpets, broad-cloth and kerseys, velvet, portcullis, opened on to a drawbridge, which, when raised, cut off the Castle from all communication with the city. The battlements of the towers were lined with the heads of rebels. Within these dark walls many a noble prisoner suffered torture, but none nobler thanthe young prince of the north, Red Hugh O’Doanell, who would one day find himself caged in the Bermingham Tower, and make his escape down the grim walls and across that black moat. A procession of illustrious martyrs, amongst themDermot O’Hurley, Cornelius . O’Devaney, PeterTalbot, Oliver Plunkett, were destined to confinement in these dungeons beforepassing to death. The EnglishViceroy lived here, and there was a chapel and a mill within the precincts for the convenience of his garrison. St. Nicholas’ Gate led out to where St. Patrick’s Cathedral raised its walls on an isletbetween two branches of the Poddle stream flowing through the Coombe. The merchants of the city had their baoths along Skinner’s Row, in front of Christ Church ; Fishamble Street, where the Fish Market was held ; Werburgh Street, where the Bristolmen had built St. Wer- burgh’s Churchfor their own use, High Street, Tbc l& old. wooden house in Dublin -corner of WerLrgh Street the oldest of all; Cornmarket, where the farmers and Castle Street. Taken down in tbc year 1813. came in from St. Thomas Streetthrough Newgate and sold their provisions of frieze, corn and wool. silk, saiin, cloth of gold and embroideries.” The The citytraded largely with continental ports, Irish ‘were very skilful in weaving and dyeing finely and every year the great Fair of St. James was held, spun viml, so much so that the Bristol weavera were 68 69 THE STORY OF DUBLIN CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL jealous of them, and drove many across to English At a time when the Englishwere fighting their towns. They refused to allow Irish apprentices French wars, and were soon to beengaged in the into their guilds. No man might ply his trade unless Wars of the Roses, they could not spare any soldiers he belonged to a guild. Each trade had its own to help their countrymen, stranded in Dublin, guild, which was likean exclusive club. Men and attacked from sea bypirates, and on land by the women belonged to these societies, they made rules Irish natives. Castle after castle had fallen before about the length of time a man must work before the Irish until they had retaken all their old lands he could be a master-workman, and they took care upto sometwelve or twenty miles from Dublin. of their own poor folk out of a common fund. The Dubliners had to bribe the Irish chiefs with They had their own special chapels in Christ Church, Black Rent.to savethemselves from attacks. The and their own patron saints. Every year they were Anglo-Irish Butlers and Geraldines were killing each wont to hold pageants or plays for the entertain- other all over Leinster. Life and property were ment of the citizens on Hoggen Green. On a stage insecure, and plague and famine visited the settlers erected at the church porch of All Hallows the plays every fourthor fifth year. There was very little were performed. The tailors played one day, the industry, and no money, in the country. shoemakers next, then the glovers, skinners, tanners, goldsmiths, fishers, andothers in due succession. At the intersection of St. Michael’s Hill and CHAPTER XVI Christchurch Place, in the centre of the city, stood a high cross, where, on the ringing of a bell, the CHRISTCHURCH CATHEDRAL citizens assembled, proclamations wereread, and offenders did penance. The Tholsel or old City Hall IN the city-it is A.D. 1162-there is anendless stood close by. The houses were ,all made of wood, roar ofmany wheels and a sound of trampling with the -gables turned to the street, and the upper feet. Studenp, sailors,. merchants, soldiers hustle stories projecting twelve or fifteen feet above the and jostle together in Hoggen Green and around ground floor, and supported on pillars. The latticed the steps of Christ Church Cathedral. windows, without glass, were enclosed in frames of High above, through rounded narrow windows, massive oak. the sun streams down in a thousand coloured rays.’ St. Audoen’s Church and watch-tower stood beside A young priest lia prost-rate on the steps of the St. Audoen’s Gate, near Cornmarket. It was the high altar and prays that he may be made worthy of first Parish Churchbuilt by the Normans, wïth its that which awaits him. He is Lawrence O’Toole, of square tower and pointed thirteenth-century arches. the princely O’Tooles of Castledermot, in Kildare, and It was dedicated to the Norman St. Ouen or Audoen. brother-in-law to .the treacherous Mac Murrough.

70 . 7’ T’FIE STORY OF DUBLIN CHRIST CHURCH CA’IREDML Already he has been elected Abbot of Glendalough, A.D. 1487.-A great processionstreams tothe wherehe has spent almost all his life as student cathedral. The Anglo-Irishhave found their true andpriest. Now here, in the Danishcathedral, prince, as they think,and are about to crownhim he is to be anointedArchbishop by the Primate, with a crowntaken from the statue of the Blessed - Gelasius of Armagh. Virgin in St. Mary’sAbbey. Lambert Simneldoes At length he is enthroned in the Archbishop’s not enjoy his kingship long ; asscullion in Henry’s chair, the Staffof ’Jesus, St.Patrick’s staff, in his kitchen, he has leisure to think upon his coronation hand, the jewelled mitre onhis head and the ring in Christ Church.

on his finger. Below the arches, the banners of .. mom8a cream and blue and gold are waving, and the Pope’s redand purple and white crown thestab. High A.D. 1538.-The sunshines gloriously upon the upon the pulpit hangs the miraculouscross with hideousscene of destruction.Soldiers are smashing the white patient figure of Christ. The triumphant the sacredimages and altar furniture of the old strains of the Te Deum ring out, and Irishmen and cathedral.From hisplace office,of the new Ostmensing the song of praiseand rejoicing, Archbishop Brome conductsoperations. Soon thanking God for the honourconferred upon the they havecollected materials for bonfire,a and holiest priest that had stood within these walls. amongst the precious things devoured by the flames The samearchbishop is destined to struggle is the jewelled Bacall Iosa, the Staff of Jesus, “ that nobly for hispeople and lost cause against the was in Dublin performingmiracles from Patrick Norman conquerors, and afterwards, worn out with down to that time, and .hadbeen in the hands of sorrow, to lay his bones in Normandy. The chapel Christ while He was among ma.” In place of the of St. Laud holds a metal case containinghis patriotic sacredimages, Brome puts the Creed, the Lord’s heart. His statue stands in one of the sub-chapels. Prayer, and the Ten Commandments on the naked WallS. . ******sa*

O#* ****8 A.D. 13g~.-KingRichard II. has ridden in state tothe cathedral. The great lords, in their parlia- A.D. 1628.--“ We find one parochial church con- ment roba, and the Irish chiefsfollow, with their verted to the lord deputy’s stable, the second to a retinues of sahn-vested gendemen,claymores and nobleman’sdwelling-house, the choir of a third to battleaxes,gillies, harpers, shanachies. Before the atennis court, and the Vicaracts the keeper. In HolyCross the English king knights four Irish Christ Church the vaults are made into tippling princes. roma for -beer, wine and tobacco.” .. ..8**8aa-br* P 73 l THE STORY OF DUBLIN DUBLIN OF THE IPH CENTURY ëridded by the city wallsand protected by the CHAPTERXVII Castletowers. A ring of castlesand fortified dwelling-houses surrounded the city. The Croní- DUBLIN OF THE SEVENTEENTH wan cannon battered their walls, so that the CENTURY castles of Baggotrath, Tallaght, Rathfarnham, New:

THE beginning of the seventeenth century saw the overthrow of the Wicklow tribes,and the release of Dublin citizens from all fear of future

, raids. The Reformers and Cromwellians- Such as do build their faith upon The holy text of pike and p- hadfollowed and purged the city of Catholicism. The monkswere driven out, and their lands dis- tributed among the king’s favourites. The Cor- poration of Dublin got the lands of the Priory of AU Hallows and gave the site of the monastery for the building of a . Protestant University, dedicated to the Holy Trinitp. The Duke of Ormond secured the lands of the DominicanPriory and laid out part as a market. The site of the monasteryand church fell to the lawyers and was called the King’s Inns. Kilmainham Priory became a Royal Hospital for veteransoldiers. The Jesuits’University in Back Lane was handedover toTrinity College. Through all the storms of the seventeenthand castle lay in ruins.Dalkey and Swords from walled eighteenth centuries’ Penal Laws, the Jesuits, Fran- townsbecame mere villages. Stephen’s Green was ciscans and Dominicans held faithfullyto their schools still a common in which the cattle grazed and where and “ Mass-houses ” in and around Cork Street. wild fowl were shot on the marshy pastures. Public Atthe beginning of the century, the city was ëxeiuiions toókplace on Gallows Hill, the place very like what it had been in 1400. The inhabitants whëre Fitzwilliam Street crosses B - got Strêet. . were huddled together in a network of narrow streets, Dermöt O’HruIey,Archbishop of %aslid, was 14 6 75 ,. . ._ I. ., I THE STORY OF DUBLIN DUBLIN OF THE ISTH CENTURY martyred on this very spot in 1581. His bodyis and tradesmen in the countries where they settled. supposed to have been buried in St. Kevin’s church- Many of them came to Dublin at the end of yard, Camden Row, near the Meath Hospital. the seventeenth century, bringing with them a The Duke of Ormond came as Viceroy to Dublin knowledge of the silk-weaving industry. Most of the year after the restoration of Charles II. He these settled in the Coombe, and builtthere the extended the city north and east. The first extension curious high-gabled houses with the small-paned was made in the direction of St. Stephen’s Green. windowsyou may still see in Weaver Square. They He had the place enclosed, the waters drained off, the setup their looms in these houses and toiled hard green levelled and planted with trees. It was then at them for many years, until the increased importa- letout in lots to tenants. The new thoroughfare tion of British and foreign silks ruined the trade. of Dame Street connected Trinity College with the They had their own guilds and their own chapel Castle and the city proper. Grafton Street was still inChrist Church Cathedral. Memories of the letout for wheat-growing Oxmantown Green, on Huguenots linger in French nameslike D’Olier the north bank of the river, was laid out for building Street and La Touche’s Bank, one of the first banks and became the most fashionable quarter of Dublin. in Dublin, established, atthe head of Cork Hill, The occupation of this district made it necessary in a handsome building whichnow serves as to build a number of bridga across the Liffey. Municipal offices. Ormond’s bridge first spanned the river, then another, named after his son, Arran, a thirdafter a sub- sequent viceroy,Essex, and a fourth, calledBloody CHAPTERXVIII Bridge, on account of a fight that tookplace over its erection between the soldiers and apprentices. DUBLIN OF THEEIGHTEENTH CENTURY The tideway of the Liffeycovered all the lower end of Westmoreland and D’Olier Streets, un@, FROM the fourteenth century, English merchants in 1663,it was shut outby a wall built by Mr. Hawkins, had kept a jealouseye on Irish trade, and the to whomHawkins Street, part of the land thus English Government had imposed crippling restric- I reclaimed, owes its name. tions on Iriah traffic with the Continent,with the In 1685 the King of France, Louis XIV., revoked Colonies, and with England. The Irish pastures the Edict of Nantes, a decisionwhich pressed so were always famed for sheep-raising, and woollen harshly on his ProtestantHuguenot subjects that manufacture was a great Irish industry. During most of them were compelled to fly from their own ! the seventeenth century variousActs were passed country and seek a living abroad. These Protestants which had the effect of killing this industry. were men who succeeded as bankers, manufacturers William III. promised to encourage the new linen 76 77 THE, STORY OF btìBLIN manufacture in Ireland instead of the oldwoallen industry, but failed to keephis promise. Heavy ! duties wereimposed on Irish linen exported to England, and it was forhidden to export them to other countries. Inthe same way thecotton industry was ruined ; the provision trade, the glass trade, and the fisheries, all came under the baa of the English Government. In consequence of these restrictions on trade, the J merchants of Dublin sufferedconsiderably and numbers of them were utterly ruined. " About twenty thousand manufacturers were reduced to beggary for want of employment. Men exhausted withhunger wereseen everywhere faintingin the ')c streets." England's war with America took away the En; lish garrisons from Ireland, and the citizens af B& ast andDublin formedthemselves into corps of Volunteers to protect the Irish coasts from possible invaders. As noinvaders appeared, and theTrade 3' Lawswere pressing hard on them, they devoted their energies to the boycott of English manufactured goods and to agitation for Frec Trade. In 1729 the Parliament House ha¿ been begun 64 I the site of a building calledCarey's Hospital, built by Carew,Mountjoy's subordinate inthe conquest of Ireland. From this time on,College Green became the focus of Irish politics. One memorable day, in the year 1779, " bold Napper Tandy had his artillery corps marshalled, all in their gallant uniforms of emeraldand scarlet, his cannon trained on the I Parliament House, and placarded with the inscription, " Free Trade or -." The walls of the Parliament 78 THE STORY OF DUBLIN House echoed and re-echoed to the rolling eloquence of Grattan, who demanded Free Trade for Ireland the Parliiment House.Bolton Street W; one of r from the English Government. The guns of the the chief thoroughfares on thenorth side. The Volunteers persuaded England to release the restric- Linen Hall had been opened here in 1726, and had tions from IrishTrade, and during the remainder been the central Irish martfor the sale of linen of the century Ireland tried to looseherself from goods until government restrictions were placed on the death-grip. Two years later, after the English linen exports. Under the Irish Parliament trade defeat at Yorktown, complete freedom and indepen- revived and progressed, butafter the Union the dence was granted to the Irish Parliament in Dublin. t industry collapsed in Dublin. During the following twenty years industry revived, Before the days of railroads the northern coaches trade flourished, and the wealth of the country set out from Bolton Street.Trades of all kinds grew by leaps and bounds. The city gf Dublin was flourished in Great Britain Street(the present expanded and improved. At the begihgng nf the I Parnell Street), particularly coachmaking. Denmark century the Ballast Office had been set up to improve Street was a centre of trade and commerce. There and control the harbour, and in 1787' the Board was werewarehouses with windlass and tackle to haul' remodelled and started work immediately. Land up the goods to the highest storey, extensive stores was redaimed on the north and south banks from the with bales and sacksof foreignmerchandise, and river and laid out in streets. A granite mole, 3%miles bins well filled with French and Spanish wines. The long, from Ringsend, was sunk into the deep waters glass industry thrived again during the reign of the of the bay, continuing the line öf the South Wall, Y *' Irish Parliament. In 1798 it was written, " the and gave shelter to ships against gales from the south. houses inDublin which arein the American glass In 1791 the Irish Parliament gave a grant for the trade have generally orders from New York sufficient construction of docks on the north and south banks to occupy them entirely for two years." In. 1791 an. of the Liffey. At the beginning of the century a English traveller who visited the paper mills at Custom House had been erected near Grattan Bridge, Chapelizod and at Saggart thought they were fully butin I781 a splendid new Custom House was equal to. any he had seen in England or Holland. begun nearer the mouth of the river. Five years The neighbouring northern town of Balbriggan later the building of the Four Courts was begun. produced, after the extinction therein 1780 of The north side of the city had been laid out for cotton mills, only popular hosiery,while tothe building during the seventeenth century. Capel south Leixlip linens vied in excellence with those of Street had been opened up at the end of the century Donnybrook and Ballsbridge. Househddfurniture, and, until Carlisle Bridge (now repIaced by O'Connell jewellery, cutlery, gloveswere of first-rate home Bridge) was built in this street,with Henry 1795, manufacture ;, while tanning, watchmaking, iron 80 81 THE STORY OF DUBLIN DUBLIN OF THE I~THCglfITJRY founding, printing and publishing, etching and en- that time, the south side was still menacedby graving were all thriving industries. A penny post, atta& from the Wicklow hills.' It was not until for the 'city and surrounding district, was estab- Lord' Edward Fitzgerald's father bdt Leinster lished in 1780, and ten years laterthe first mail House, and drew the fashionableworld after him, coach started from Dublin. About the sametime, that Leeson Street and Merrion Square were laid 1799, the Royal Canal was opened, and soon a supply out and the south side began to develop. Grafton of turf, fuel, and cheap provisions from districts of Street contained the town house of noblemen until Connacht and Leinster was brought tothe city docks. Boats carried passengers, too, from the Royal Cad House at the Broadstone to Mullingar and back. Under the fostering care of the Royal Dublin Society, founded in 1731, farming and agricúlture were assisted and improved, and the arts and crafts flourished. The Royal Irish Academy was established by erattan's Parliament in 1786, " to promote the study of polite literature, science and antiqyities.'" Its splendid collection of Irish gold ornaments and e antiquities has now been transferred to the Museum, l The Larr of th# Ord Bu& Brìa'ger. but it contains manyvaluable manuscripts, such as the Book of Lesan, the Speckled Book of Mac Egan (Fma W- Sk+h nrodr k, I~s.) Bloody Bridge, omoaip Watling Strat, Y) buse d a brce (Leabbar Breac) and many others. riot won afte.!ita ogienmg The casteihted gatewa WBI removed hi The number of wealthy aristocrats who had their 1%6 to Kllmalnham where'it fornmtl?eatmna to &e Royal Hoepital. residences chiefly on the north side of the city gave great impetus to trade. Their stately town houses Carlisle Bridge was built, and thus led to the opening still bearwitness to the former social splendour of of shops in Grafton Street. Dublin. After the building of the Rotunda, Rutland The leaders of fashion lived most of their life in Square (Parnell Square) became a fashionable quarter, public, frequenting the Mall inUpper Sackvie while the neighbouring thoroughfares of Marlborough Street (O'Connell Street), then an enclosedspace, Street, Great Denmark Street, and Gardiner's Row drinking coffee, holding balls, or listening to contained the houses of many notable peers. The concerts in the Rotunda Gardens, or,perhaps, in nobility favoured thenorth side because, even at Marlborough Green. The middle-class public hod 82 83 THE STORY OF DUBLIN DUBLIN AFTER THE UNION their pleasuregrounds on the south side, in the RanelaghGardens, now theptoperty of Carmelite CHAPTERXIX nuns.Music was the chief source of attraction to this pleasure-loving populace. At the Music Hall in DUBLIN AFTER THE UNION Fishamble Street Handel gavehis first production of the Mcuiah. FTER the Union Dublin ceased to be an The appearance of the streets accorded ill with A independent capital, and sank gradually to the the social splendour of the day. They were narrow, level of a sleepy,decaying provincial town. Social dingy, ill-paved thoroughfares, with heaps of rubbish splendourdisappeared with the exit of the Irish inthe channelsand pigs wandering about. The Parliament. Trade ddined at first and then wholly shopswere small and dark, with diamond-paned collapsedwhen the protecting duties weretaken windows. A series of prints hanging in.the National off imports, and English manufactured goods flooded Art Gallery shows Dublin as it was in thesetimes. the country. The introduction of steamnavigation There is here a series of galleries containing historical increased the advantages of Englishmanufacture, portraits ranged in chronologicalorder, each room and these advantages were further enhanced by the representing a period of history. spread of the railwaysystem. The Dublin glass At night, the danger from footpads and highway- works and salt works were ruined, and six or seven men was highlyserious. The crime so prevalent in sugarfactories were abandoned. Dublin of the eighteenth century has been imputed The people’s discontent foundexpression in to the presence of immense wealth in company with variousrebellions : that led by Emmet in 1803 ; great destitution. Swift’s bitter descriptions of the the- Young Ireland Rising the year after the Black people’s acute miseryemphasise the wickedness of Famine, 1848, and the Fenian Rising of 1867. the English and Anglo-Irishgarrison, who wasted O‘Connell, the greatest popularleader inthe the money that should have been used in fostering world, won Catholic Emancipationfor Ireland, industries or the improvement of landon the freeing the peoplefrom a centuries-old servitude. expensivedecoration of buildingsand equipages. Some years later he secured the right for Catholics to sit inthe Corporation of Dublin, and he was himselfelected Lord Mayor.His massive, splendid figure still stands in bronze keeping watch and ward over’ the heart of the city that onceswelled and throbbed in homage to him. After the Famine of 1846-7-8, and the cruel evictions of Meath and Kildare,thousands of poor 85 THE STORY OF DUBLIN DUBLIN AF'fER MÈWON homelessfamilies drifted into the city for a shelter masters-Rubens, Rembrandt, Murillo, Titian.At and the chance of employment. They swarmed theother side of Leinster Lawn is the Natural into the grand houses, left untenanted by the lords History Museum. and members of the Irish Parliament, and swn over- In the closing years of the nineteenth century the crowded the labour market. The fashionable quarters Gaelic League started the revival of Irish-Ireland, of the aristocracywere turned into a rookery of and helped to make Dublin once again the Celtic slums. Gty that it had not beensince the dayswhen the In later times,however, the march of improve- Danes set up their Ibing Moa on St. Andrew's Hill. ment went on unchecked in the city. Hospitals and asylums were built for the poor and distressed. New bridges were erected over the Liffey and new streets were planned. Gas lighting was employed to brighten the streets by night, and a regular force of policemen instituted to guard them. A new supply of water gave the city improved sanitation. The building of railways helped in the outward spread of the city. Tramways were laid downalong the main streets. With the introduction of tramcars, a great part of the middle class migrated towards the country, and Rathmines, Inchicore, Clontarf, Pembroke, Donny- brook (formerly a small village) now became fashion- able suburbs. The building of the Museum, National Library, and National Art Gallery showed that Dublin was Hilh Cross at TuIIagk, Co. Dubìm. eager to keeppace with the march of science and - culture. The Museum contains a priceless collection of Irish antiquities, gold, and silver ornaments, such as the Cross of Cong, the Ardagh Chalice, the Tara Brooch. At the rere of Leinster House is the National Gallery,which contains paintings and sculpture by the most famous Irish artistd4a&e, Hogan, Barry, Mulrqdy, Foley ; and bp.the great European 86

I THE STORY OF DUBLIN Other Works on Irish History

AUTHORITIESCONSULTED STORIESFROM IRISH HISTORY. By Mrs. Gwynn ; DUBLIN CITY. with Pictures by George Morrow and Arthur Donnelly. Cloth, IS. 6d. SIRJOHN GILBBRT Histovy qf Dublin; 3 vols. (1861.) D. A. CHART ... Story of Dublin. (Dent's " Mediaeval A SHORT STORY OFTHE IRISH RACE. Towns.") By Seumas MacManus. S. A. O. FITZPATRICKHistorical and Topopt@lid AGCOU& of Dublin. (1907.) Book I.-From the Earliest Times to the Flight A. PETER ... Sketches of OU Dublin. of the Earls. 1s. 9d. , Do. ... Dublin Fvagmsnts. (1912-15.) Book II.-From the Flight of the Earls to the COLLINS Life ìn Old Dublin. (1913). ... Present Day. IS. 9d. W. ST. J. JOYCE... TbNeighbourhod of Dublin. (1913.) Civic Srk.vey of Dublin. MAPS ... IRISHHISTORY STUDIES. By Senator Mrs. Stopford Green. DUBLIN COUNTY. First Series.-Irishmen on the Sea-Old Irish F. ELRINGTONBALL History of the Coudy DubZin. 6 vols. Homes-Old Irish Farms-An Irish School-An (1902-20.) Irish Festival-"heOld Irish People. II. od. D'ALTON ... History of the Gounfy Dublin. (1838.) Second HARRIS .. . History of the County Dublin. (I 766.) SmidJ.-Monaoteries and Industriesd HANDCOCK ... History and Anfìqudiw of TaUaght. Brian, King of Munster-Brian, the High King (1 877.) -Brian's Battle, 1014-Ireland and the Armada. BLACKER ... B~igSketchss of ,Boderstown and I$. od. onnybvook . ( r 860 - 74 .) BISHOPDONNEUY Shwt History of some Dublin Pavishes. A HISTORY OF IRELAND, from the Earliest Times to A.D. 800. By the Rev. John Ryan, S. J., MA. 2s. 6d.

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