CarmenO’s Way Swaying into the early hours of the morning to the strains of Fado filling a courtyard and your heart, driving along the azure Atlantic ocean in Algarve, eating churros amidst ruins and drinking your way through Duoro, spoils you for life. By Ruchira Bose

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m jet-lagged beyond belief. I left home at 10.30 pm yesterday after a full day at work, travelled for over 14 hours, albeit in great comfort in my fully-flat business class bed aboard Turkish Airlines; arrived in Lisbon, was then whisked away to Sintra where I checked in at the Penha Longa Resort by Ritz Carlton. This was followed Aby a two-hour ride through traffic back to Lisbon's district for the one-night-only festival of Fado music. It’s 4 now almost midnight. I’m with a motley group of travellers, being guided by Luis Sousa who owns one of the country's leading luxury tour companies called Mr Travel Portugal and looks uncannily like a Greek movie star (complete with 3 the charming cleft chin and broad shoulders). I hardly know the other travellers, but it’s clear to me very early on, as we hobble along like ducklings behind Luis around the busy winding cobbled paths of Alfama, that we are going to be a crazy bunch of men and women. We all love wine, partying in a new city, exchanging stories, sharing laughter and soaking up a country we’ve never been to. The night was magical. It didn’t matter how tired we were. Alfama was dressed in festive buntings like a flower child wears strands of beaded necklaces. It was hosting a night marathon at the same time as the Fado festival. There were singers with guitars and cellos in balconies overlooking the streets, tables that spilled over courtyards and strains of song that came from deep within the bars of Alfama and made their way into our hearts. The youngest in our group, the most free-spirited of us all picked up an endearment along the way, “Carmino!” 5 and happily shouted this out whenever she wanted to call us sweetly, show her appreciation to the singers on the stage or even as an expression of exclamation at how good life was 1. Rolling golf course dunes at Penha Longa; throughout this journey through Portugal. 2. The colourful rooftops of Alfama; 3. Castelo Silves; 4. The town of Vilamoura; 5&6. Vineyards along At some point in the evening, we were famished and the river Duoro, as the river goes deeper into the found most kitchens had closed, but a small family-run mountains; 7. Duquesa beach on a sunny day. 1 6 place was still serving beer and delicious Bifanas. If you love sandwiches, this may well start figuring in your top 10. It’s a

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simple slice of pork steak lightly sautéed with garlic, so that 20-odd minutes inland, Sintra is a town rich with grandiose s

t t t; t; p the meat is warm and juicy and served in a bread roll that is castles, a mountainous landscape and acres of natural beauty p que p ve. distinctly crusty, puffy and floury. That night, eight people that fully warrant its classification as a UNESCO World ve. par o ar ar .com. r g who were relatively strangers to each other till then forged Heritage Site. The most mesmerizing former royal residence g u al al ais t t the most natural and unpretentious friendships that only is the Pena National Palace – a monument resembling a c isi isi ; 6.; E as t

good-humoured destinations bring about. whimsical fairy tale castle seemingly erected straight from the p tc

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Over the next ten days or so, we travelled across Sintra’s the mind of Walt Disney. Golf enthusiasts gather year-round at isi ris ris v .com.

medieval castles and palaces, through its winding roads, past the superb 18-hole golf club – one of the best in the country – of f ou ou tock; tock; ais o Pene y o y c rs s beautiful homes dressed in climbing rose trellises and night the 545-acre Pengha Longa Resort. Amenities here include, d ve T ve n ve T ve as te a

jasmine vines; wandered the markets in the old city buying lush gardens, exemplary spa services and a global collection of r ar ar tc n g g r hutte dainty blue handcrafted ceramic ware and drank carafes of fine dining options – two star Michelin restaurant Arola offers isi 7. v 7. 2. s 2. A l 3. 4. A l 4. 5. Fe wine in cafes where once English poets penned verses. Only a lofty space and Portuguese cuisine with a twist. cou 1.

76 APRIL 2015 travel+leisure travel+leisure APRIL 2015 00 With a changing landcape as diverse as its regional cuisine and the emergence of new high-end properties and activities, a select number of Portugal’s coastal towns are at long last becoming luxury destinations set to rival the most opulent offerings of , and . .com a bo lis t isi te: v te: si o pp t; o t; p .com. ais c as

Pena Palace stands atop the hill in Sintra. tc isi

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00 APRIL 2015 travel+leisure travel+leisure APRIL 2015 00 200-year-old opera house, Teatro Nacional de Sao Carlos In the 14th century, it became the Royal Palace.You can walk harmoniously neighbours vintage-chic concept shops like the the pathways, explore the castle,and enjoy the fantastic views of newly-opened Chiado Factory. The culinary wunderkind of downtown Lisbon, the River, and the April 25th Bridge. the momen is Jose Avillez, a talented young chef whose quick Sit and enjoy a cool drink at one of the stands or have lunch rise to fame whose quick rise to fame and impressive collection at the Casa Do Leao. Watch the peahens and pigeons wander of Chiado eateries include Cantinho do Avillez (Known for its the grounds. Don't neglect the rest of the Alfama after seeing hearty regional fare), the recently inaugurated gourmet Mini the castle and if you are happily weary after this adventure just Bar Teatro and the crowning jewel of his epicurean empire; take the trolley down to the Praca do Commercio. Michelin-starred Belcanto. The majestic Praca do Comercio – alternately called EAT AT DOC BY RUI PAULA Terreiro do Paco, is the city’s classically columned waterfront Between Pinhão and Peso da Régua, this is a winemakers’ square (renovated in 2012) usually brimming with activity hot spot for celebrated modern cooking. The Douro wine from the adjacent shopping street Rua Augusta, the nearby list is impressive. Arrive by river if you want—there’s a boat Square (in the heart of Lisbon), the iconic yellow dock. DOC established Chef Rui Paula’s reputation not only trams making their way down from surrounding hills and for quality, but also as an inventive chef whose creations are the Ribeira das Naus, the busy promenade that lines the beautiful without being outlandish, and are also very firmly Tagus River. A little further east, past Cais do Sodre – a seedy- rooted in the Douro and in Portugal, using local ingredients, turned-hip nightlife district – a short coastal trip by train or but often presenting them in new ways. by car offers you a different side of the Tagus: the beautiful towns of coastal Portugal. LISBON'S BEST FOOD MARKET Casçais, a one-time fishing village blessed with pristine, Across the street from the Cais do Sodré train station, the 'river sandy beaches, was reinvented as a sophisticated jetsetter’s market' is Lisbon’s preeminent food bazaar. Beneath the 1930s playground once the royal family christened it their official dome, vendors sell fresh seafood, meat, fruit, piri-piri peppers, summer residence in the late 1800s. Largo de Camoes, a quaint and flowers. The second floor houses a cultural center where square at the heart of the old town centre, is surrounded by travellers can pick up crafts, port wine, and local honey. On The marina at Casçais a myriad of brightly-coloured shops, cafes and restaurants weekends, the central stage hosts local bands. with uniquely-tiled floors resembling cascading waves. The Hemingway Restaurant, located in the harbour, serves Santini’s Ice Cream A few days later we drove down to Algarve, stayed at provides an ideal gateway to neighbouring towns and wine wonderfully creative cuisine and mixed drinks in a decidedly The Santini family has been in the ice cream business since an innovative and award-winning property called the regions. With a changing landcape as diverse as its regional eclectic setting. A pleasant walk along the promenade that 1907 when their grandfather had an ice cream parlor in Vienna Martinhal Beach Resort in Sagres. Created by the very cuisine and the emergence of new high-end properties and lines the Estoril coast brings visitors to Praia do Guincho, a with links to the Austrian imperial household. Attilo Santini elegant and talented Chitra Stern, the resort is a family- activities, a select number of Portugal’s coastal towns are at beach with waves so powerful, it has long been considered Jr began his business in 1949. Santini’s royal links are not just focused, glass-enhanced hideaway with a beach and a long last becoming luxury destinations set to rival the most Portugal’s surfers paradise. with the Portuguese royal family. In the parlour and on their national park, based on the concept of barefoot luxury at its opulent offerings of Italy, Spain and France. Lovers of historical intrigue would enjoy a visit (and/ website, there are photos, press clippings and certificates all heart. The contemporary duplex style villas with gorgeous Though many European capitals demonstrate their or stay) to the Hotel Palacio across the bay in neighbouring showing how Santini ice cream has infiltrated the lives and ocean views are at once a place you want to return with progress through the construction of modern edifices Estoril, a still ritzy hotel frequented by James Bond author Ian social events of Europe’s royal families. The gelato here is 100% friends, just as they are a place perfect for large families, too. and artwork, Lisbon prefers to meticulously renovate the Fleming (during his WW2 years as a naval officer) and later natural without additives of any type, the flavours change Each villa has a living room, balconies, gardens out front, remaining evidence of its prosperous glory years; ornate immortalised in the 1964 Bond classic, On Her Majesty’s Secret according to season, there’s always a very long queue at both and kitchens that are stocked with essentials and groceries palaces and historic homes have been skillfully transformed Service. Concierge Jose Diogo, whose teenaged cameo (in the outlets in Portugal (one is in Casçais, the other in Lisbon) before you arrive. The property has restaurants, child- into five star hotels and event venues. The Pestana Palace, the film) made him a local celebrity in his own right, is one of a minding services and multiple pools and play areas. Sans once regal home of a 19th century Marquis, is today a national handful of loyal employees still working at the landmark hotel. LX Factory our partners and loved ones, we gathered in one villa (like monument boasting four extravagant suites decorated with Indeed, a 007 martini at the English-ispired bar is like traveling Once a textile mill, the block-long LX Factory (Rua Rodrigues you’d go across to a friend’s home) and decided to enjoy an authentic period furnishings, magnificent views of the Tagus back to a more glamorous era. Faria 103) is now a goldmine for irreverent art. In a tucked away evening listening to music, debating the merits of Mumbai River and an award-winning spa. In 1883, the Count of Valencas The Portuguese way of life—deeply rooted in tradition and corner of Lisbon, this bustling new design and arts district vs Delhi, sharing stories and laughter and (as more wine painstakingly transformed his home into an exquisite palace. a strong desire for innovation – rewards the discerning visitor is a cornerstone. Set on movie-set looking ground of an old was drunk) we toyed with the idea of playing Truth Or Dare. The elegant, tree-lined features the with a taste of aristocratic living expertly combined with the manufacturing district, hang out amid the design firms, Fortunately for others, we didn’t. world’s finest luxury fashion brands rubbing elbows with a very best in contemporary creature comforts. At the end of the production studios, restaurants and shops — all having a From the pure azure Atlantic coast to the Duoro, our curiously complementary mix of the old and the new. Classic trip, as we went our separate ways, we felt the landscapes and design-centered focus. The cool thing is they didn’t gloss it up, colourful group drove down, chasing the river, singing songs monuments paying homage to Portugal’s most important experiences of Portugal will be a part of our collective stories but kept the place to its core history, with wonderful decay and at the top of our voices much tolerated by our drivers who personalities stand alongside the city’s most contemporary and friendship for many years to come. It's just such a place. industrial bones still in place. happened to have the same name: Miguel – who thereafter dwellings. At the avenue’s base is the Praca Marques De And we were just such people! Do see the1300 Taberna restaurant, set in beautiful space with were given distinguishing titles based on their personality: Pombal, an impressive square that complements the well- factory skylights and extremely nice people and, the Ler Devagar t

'Daddy' Miguel and 'Sexy' Miguel. Both were incredibly warm, manicured Eduardo VII Park and just a short distance from p OTHER HIGHLIGHTS bookstore — often cited as one of the most beautiful bookstores cheerful and fountains of local knowledge. It was the latter the modern comforts of the internationally recognised Four Way up in the Alfama, the Castelo Sao Jorge is a must see (and in the world. It is set amidst an old two-storey printing plant, that told me about the boho luxe area of Alcantara in Lisbon. Seasons Ritz Hotel that has a running track on its rooftop with .com. do). This castle was really the beginning of Lisbon. The first with seats, racks and even a cafe nestled amidst the printing ais As one of the oldest cities in Europe, Lisbon has a rich, breakthatking views and a truly royal-style spa. c king, Afonso Henriques captured this hilltop fortress from the units, catwalks and folders. as

intriguing history as evidenced by its well-kept architecture Chiado, one of Lisbon’s most upscale areas, is currently tc Moors in the 12th century. The site was occupied by Romans, Also, there’s a restaurant around the corner owned by Tito isi

and monuments adorning the city. The vibrant capital also enjoying a cultural and gastronomic rebirth. Lisbon’s v Visigoths, then Moors. Paris, who plays a cool Cape Verde-an style of songs and fados.+

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