Islands in the north. Islands inthenorth. and forests ofLore LinduNationalPark inCentral SulawesiortothepristineSangir-Talaud MarineNationalPark,Southeast SulawesianditsfabulousWakatobi totheancientmegaliths birds attheTangkoko Togetwayoffthebeaten Nature thenext. track,headto Reserve andyoucandive theworld’stopcoralreefsshort oneday,thenseejunglecritters andrare to move isthebestchoiceforthoseonatime budget,sincedistancesare fast.The north visayou’llneed toPulau buttodothisonaone-month north Bunaken, Islands andfarther mainly inhabited bytheBugis, ’smostfamousseafarers. you spicydishesofeverything fromstewed forest rattogrilledfish;thecoastalregions are offerMamasa life revolves theMinahasans aroundtheChristianchurch,andinfarnorth ceremonies inwhichbuffaloesare sacrificedand the worldbydramatictopography.MeetTana Torajawiththeirelaborate funeral maleo birds. Cultures have beenable toindependentlyevolve here, cutofffromtherest of and junglesthickwithwildlife suchastherare tarsiersandflamboyantlycolourful nocturnal mind-boggling varietyoffish.Meanwhile,theinterior isshadedbyimpenetrablemountains sive island’smultilimbedcoastlineisdrawnwithsandybeaches,fringing coralreefs anda If youthinkSulawesilookscrazyonthemap,justwaituntilseeitforreal. The mas­ Sulawesi 654  Most people take the route from Makassar toTana therouteMost peopletake fromMakassar Toraja,thencontinuetotheTogean      HIGHLIGHTS

POPULATION: 16 MILLION

Park ancient megalithsat Spotting sprightlytarsiersanddiscovering 66) and ( p686) towns of atthequietlakeside Feeling thecoolair offglistening Danau ( p696 ), anislandparadise inthelaid-back to thenext Island-hopping fromoneoutrageousbeach ( p672) elaborate funeralceremony in cultural documentarywhenattending an Wondering ifyoudidn’tjustwanderintoa around chilled-out rich coraldrop-offs –someofAsia’s best– ordivingalong Snorkelling unbelievably

( p690) Tentena

Pulau Bunaken ( p687) Lore LinduNational

Togean Islands  Tana Toraja LAND AREA: 202,000 SQKM LANDAREA: ( p710) Pendolo

Tana Toraja balok (palmwine)flowsfreely; nearbyin National Park Lore Lindu Tentena andPendolo

 HIGHEST PEAK: GUNUNG HIGHESTPEAK: RANTEMARIO (3440M) RANTEMARIO Togean Islands Bunaken Pulau lonelyplanet.com SULAWESI 655 SULAWESI 0 200 km SULAWESI 0 120 miles

Kawio Islands Pulau Talaud Melanguane Lirung

Tahuna Sangir-Talaud Pulau Islands Sangir S U L A W E S I S E A Besar

Pulau Siau Pulau Tahulandang Pulau Biaro Pulau Bunaken Pulau Tangkoko-Batuangas Bangka Dua Saudara Bunaken Nature Reserve Tua Marine Selat Lembeh National Park Manado KALIMANTAN Pulau Mayu Tondano NORTH Toli-Toli SULAWESI Pulau Tifore Kwandang Danau Selat Limboto Limboto Kotamobagu Makassar Tomini Tilamuta M A L U K U Doloduo Gorontalo Bogani Nani S E A Wartabone National Park Equator Equator Togean Islands Teluk Togean National Park Tomini Islands Donggala Pantoloan Pagimana Bunta Pasangkayu Luwuk CENTRAL Tataba Lore Lindu SULAWESI National Park Batui Salakan Morowali Nature Pulau Poso Banggai Pulau Tentena Reserve Pulau Mangole Gimpu Baturube Pandauke Karosa Peleng Danau Poso Kolonedale Banggai Pulau Pulau Pendolo Teluk Islands Taliabu Danau Tolo Sanana SOUTH Matano SULAWESI Wotu Tana Toraja Soroako Mamuju Danau Rantepao Mamasa Towuti MALUKU Palopo Latowu Makale Pulau Polewali Buru SOUTHEAST Pulau Majene Enrekang SULAWESI Manui Siwa Teluk Bone Kendari Pare Pare Pulau Sengkang Wowoni Danau Kolaka Tempe Watampone B A N D A S E A Buapinang Kembara Raha Maros Pulau Muna Pulau Wakatobi Marine Malino Buton National Park Makassar Pulau (Tukangbesi) Kabaena Tukangbesi Bau Bau Pantai Bira Islands

Pulau Benteng Selayar

Taka Bone Rate Islands

Taka Bone Rate Marine Bone Rate National Park F L O R E S S E A Islands Bone Rate