Seed Starting and Transplanting

Seed Starting and Transplanting by Chris Zbiden Kittitas County Master Gardener 507 Nanum St., Ste 2 Ellensburg, Wa 98926 509-962-7507 http://county.wsu.edu/kittitas/gardening/pages/Master_Gardeners.aspx Extension programs and employment are available to all without discrimination. Evidence of noncompliance may be reported through your local Extension office. Why start seeds? • Jump on the season • Just fun • Save money – watch them grow – seed packages are sold by oz. • Help children learn or lb., not 1 seed – let them help • Pick a variety that is not • Share plants with sold at the local store neighbors, co-workers, – better control of stock friends • Know where your plants – too many starts - introduce have been someone to gardening with your gift – acclimated to your area Why to not start seeds • No time • Dog might eat them – working, other household – really? chores, dogs need a walk • Windows are cold • No space – poor germination – no windowsills or southern exposure • Don’t want 12 tomato plants – buy only as many starts as you need Not all seeds need a head start • Maturity date – check your seed packages – radishes 25-60 days – lettuce 45-60 days – pumpkins 65-75 days – tomatoes 70-85 days • Hardiness – check your seed packages – tender plants will be killed by frost Some don't transplant well – beans, corn, cucumbers, peas, squash, watermelon Start seeds inside or outside? Inside • Using cells or flats • Egg or recycled cartons – sterilize with 10% bleach solution 27greenbriar.com Outside • Cold frames • Green house themicrogardener.com • Garden area moplants.com Starting seeds inside ... it’s easy and fun! • Soil • Water – potting mix – cold or warm – not garden soil – it is too • Seeds heavy and compacts – What grows in my area? • Containers – flats, cells or pots • Warmth and light – windowsill, grow lights or heat mats How to pick your seeds • Know your climate – zone chart/frost pockets • Space limitations – What room do you have? • Eating habits – What do you eat? • Production needs – canning, freezing, eating What grows in your area? • Hardiness – tender vs. hardy • Micro-climate – know your yard – soil pH 6.5 to 7 • Season length – know the length between last and first frosts Seed viability Are the seeds I'm using still good? seeds are baby plants in hybernation different seeds last different times – from 1 to 5 years for vegetables seed viability is related to storage conditions – in the dark with less than 50% humidity and less than 50° F Vegetable years Vegetable years Vegetable years asparagus 3 collard 5 onion 1 bean 3 corn, sweet 1 parsley 2 beet 4 cucumber 5 parsnip 1 broccoli 5 eggplant 5 pea 3 brussel sprouts 5 kale 5 pepper 4 cabbage 5 leek 1 pumpkin 4 carrot 3 lettuce 5 radish 5 cauliflower 5 muskmelon 5 spinach 5 celery 5 mustard 4 tomato 4 Germination • Different for all seeds • Last year's seeds – about 2 weeks – test them first – some herbs are longer wet 2 paper towels • • Soak 24 hours ahead place 10 seeds between towels • – cuts germination to one week keep wet until seeds sprout • – small seeds – not easy or fun check germination rate because they clump when wet Here we go… starting seeds inside collect planting medium and containers sow seeds – packet tells you the right depth spray water – damp, not soggy sunlight – place in window with southern exposure or place grow lights12 to 15 inches above soil surface air circulation – cover to keep moist air in; don't place trays over a heating vent temp. 65º to 70º – too cold will not sprout; too hot will dry out Hey…they came up!!! • Turn seedlings for light – they lean towards the light so turn trays to encourage straight stems – raise grow lights as seedlings get taller • First sign • Water – false leaves/seed still on? – damp, but not soggy • True leaves – fine for soil crust to dry out – 2nd pair of leaves once you remove cover to increase air circulation – pot up when 1” to 2” tall What went wrong? • Damping off – 2 weeks after germination – fungus infection – plants “lay down” in a day's time • Prevention – Sterilize! soil and containers Leggy seedlings • Stems are weak and spindly • Causes – too much warmth, not enough sun – too much nutrients – too much calcium – greenhouse effect – don’t coddle Is legginess a bad ‘thing”? • Yes – wind will break the stem – plants will “fall” over – pets may break the stem – plants will usually remain • and No weak – tomato family can generate roots on the stem (peppers, eggplants, tomatoes) – best to bury these leggy stems deep to encourage rooting First transplant • Divide seedlings • Pot up into a larger • How to pot up? container – handle plants by their leaves, • Plants stay in this pot not delicate stem – until planted outside keep same soil level on the stem – gently firm soil around roots – leave soil ¼ inch down from container rim – water from bottom with weak fertilizer solution – watch them grow! Hardening off • Toughens up starts by – carry outside to a shady, protected producing a thicker cuticle spot • Stops shock, trauma of – leave a couple of hours a day, planting into unpredictable increasing time and light about an environment (think wind and hour per day temperature extremes) – protect at night if temperatures • When? about a week before drop below 40º planting into garden – reduce water, but don't allow plant to wilt – don't fertilize, especially with nitrogen, which encourages soft, green growth Transplanting into the garden … finally! Transplant after last • If it is too hot and sunny frost date – cover the plants with hot – lower county around caps for about a week to May 20th; upper county provide shade around May 30th – can use vitamin B starter solution Best time to transplant – on an overcast day – light rain day – not a windy day – keep plant roots wet Kittitas County Master Gardener Program Thanks for your interest in our workshop Seed Starting and Transplanting .

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