— gems. Katie Lockhart seeks out the best of both best the out seeks Katie Lockhart gems. hole-in-the-wall well as countless as restaurants Michelin-starred 96 OSAKA Known as “the nation’s kitchen”, this Japanese city boasts boasts city kitchen”, nation’s Japanese this “the Known as EAT +DRINK —

Dave Dawang, Bundo Kim, Leslie Koh Dave Dawang, Bundo Kim, Leslie Koh SAUCE BOSS SAUCE bar-k.jp/index.php charge applies (about $7.50). Acover cocktails. impeccable plus and quality whiskies, Japanese selection from around the world impressive an Find bars. whisky best city’s the of one is Station, Osaka from walk a10-minute located venue, intimate this counters, wood dark with York bar New amoody like Styled cues-club.com/bar nightcap. apost-dinner for perfect is bar 20-seat the relaxed, yet Sleek and herbal liquors for nearly years. 30 fruit with cocktails delicious serving been has institution Osaka this Kita, uptown of heart the in Located sauceboss.jp set. all you’re –and from choose to flavours different 18 have – they wings signature their of one or fries cut fresh burgers, with Doppo like beer alocal Pair epic. are wings chicken gourmet their all, not That’s town. in selections beer craft largest the of one Shinsaibashi shopping hub boasts the in bar this cool, hipster Oozing > > > BAR K. BAR CUE’S. BAR BOSS. SAUCE

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BAR K BAR 087 OSAKA 089 secret

BAR NAYUTA EKCHUAH

> OIMATSU KITAGAWA. Located in a quiet, residential suburb of Kita, this Michelin-star restaurant serves kappo-style omakase kaiseki spots – a multi-course meal left up to the chef, using seasonal fish and local ingredients. The mystery of lifting the white cloth hanging over the door to walk down the cobblestone path into the warm, eight-seater dining room only > GANKO > BAR NAYUTA. enhances how special the whole JUHACHIDAIME. If you can find it, one of the coolest experience feels. Head to this locals’ favourite tucked underground bars in Osaka is oimatsukitagawa.com away down a small alley of the lively hidden behind a tiny door at the Namba neighbourhood (in lower end of a dark hallway, which you Minami) for ramen ordered from can identify from a cryptic emblem > EK CHUAH. a machine. Select perfectly cooked on the wall. Once you’re inside this Quality chocolate is not easy to or salt ramen – an ideal pairing eclectic speakeasy in the flashy find in Japan but this specialty with fatty pork – and once you’re Shinsaibashi neighbourhood, tell shop and café is worth hunting done slurping it up, you may well the owner Hiro what type of alcohol down – just follow your nose to the be rewarded with a printout of you like, whether you like it sweet, aromas of sugar and chocolate personal Osaka recommendations savory, spicy or bitter and he will wafting around the charming area from the helpful owner. whip up a top-notch cocktail. of Karahori, Minami. Housed in bar-nayuta.com a traditional two-storey wooden building, the cocoa haven stocks > GINZAYA. limited-edition chocolates in flavours It’s standing room only at this hole such as hot wine and apple. The in the wall, found down on the café’s Theobroma cake made of basement floor of the Osaka Ekimae milk chocolate with orange (kind Daiichi office building, a short hop of like a Jaffa) is not to be missed. from Osaka Station. Make like the TRENDING ek-chuah.co.jp local businessmen who come here Gin cocktails are Japan’s latest after work for a few pints of Sapporo alcohol craze and at Adee in the and izakaya (informal Japanese pub Intercontinental Osaka hotel, you grub) and try the chicken , can sip on them while taking in beef tataki or calamari – you’ll see jaw-dropping views of the city.

Hiro Nakayama, @miu696 Nakayama, Hiro why it’s so popular. icosaka.com/en/restaurant/adee OSAKA 091

> SUSHIYOSHI. With two Michelin stars, this Kita restaurant is a coveted reservation so make sure you book in advance (and save up) for one of only eight seats at the minimalist wooden table. Not exactly a traditional experience, here it is a degustation-style three hour meal served by the friendly chef who explains each dish (with a few jokes thrown in).

> MAWARU GENROKU SUSHI. The idea for the now ubiquitous sushi train, known as “kaiten”, was created in 1958 after Yoshiaki Shiraishi – the founder of this shop – saw beer on a conveyor belt at an Asahi brewery SUSHIYOSHI and decided to implement it in his sushi sushi restaurant. If you can’t make it to the original in East Osaka, try one of its numerous offshoots dotted throughout the city to stack as many empty sushi plates as possible for as little as $1.50 a pop. central mawaru-genrokuzusi.co.jp

> KAWAUME. > ENDO SUSHI. Overseen by chef Takagi Kazuo, Serving some of the city’s finest fish whose eponymous restaurant Takagi for more than 100 years, this cosy, A STAR-STUDDED SUPPER has held two Michelin stars eight no-frills sushi mecca draws in the One of four Osaka restaurants years in a row, this new eatery in the crowds for its top-quality market- awarded three Michelin stars Hilton Osaka in downtown Kita, offers fresh produce and attractive prices – this year, Taian offers elaborate sushi and kaiseki (multi-course meals). you can get five pieces for about $12. meals of gourmet dishes such Watching the chefs beautifully plate The original is located in the Central as Japanese yellowtail each piece is as important a part of Fish Market but the newer outpost served in an inviting setting, the experience as the food. in Kyobashi’s Keihan Mall, north of complete with a zen garden. hiltonosaka.com Osaka Castle, is just as good. endo-sushi.com

> HARUKOMA SUSHI. Join the queues outside this unpretentious eatery on the city’s longest shopping street, Tenjinbashisuji Shotengai, to gain access into a bustling hub where chefs expertly prepare sushi and sashimi for the constant cycle of locals and tourists occupying the 30 or so seats. While the food and (potent) is as authentic as ENDOSUSHI Bakergirl, Monique Cheung Monique Bakergirl, it gets, they have an English menu. 092 OSAKA

ZUBORAYA the classics

> DOTONBORI AKAONI. is another insanely popular Osaka creation – a wheat flour ball filled with octopus and spring onion, BIG IN JAPAN topped with mayo, takoyaki sauce Awajishima Burger in Nishinomiya and bonito flakes. This one-dish (a 20-minute metro ride from wonder counter in the heart of lively Osaka Station) is known for

DOTONBORI AKAONI DOTONBORI Dotonbori has a red devil standing having some of the best burgers guard outside and was awarded in Japan. Made with Awaji Island a Michelin Bib Gourmand (for eateries beef (where Kobe comes from), > CHIGUSA. that offer good quality, good value these burgers are worth the trek. Specialising in – savoury food). The secret to their gastronomic web-joho.com/awaji pancakes filled with cabbage, pork, success is probably the use of raw scraps and topped with octopus instead of boiled (which mayo, bonito flakes, seaweed and is standard for this dish) in all their deliciously sweet sauce – this Kita piping hot, made-to-order takoyaki. > DARUMA. hotspot tucked away in a narrow doutonbori-akaoni.com The Japanese dish kushikatsu – side street is loved by locals and deep-fried skewered meat and well off the typical tourist trail. vegetables, usually served with The food is freshly cooked in front > ZUBORAYA. a communal dipping sauce – was of you and super authentic. , or blowfish, is one of Japan’s born right here in the gritty Shinsekai most dangerous foods and if neighborhood of Minami. You can prepared incorrectly it could mean find them on just about every street > SUNSHINE CAFE. a trip to the hospital. But at Zuboraya corner here but this chain, dating This café has been cranking out fluffy, – the premier place in Dontonbori back to 1929, is one of the most eggy Japanese-style pancakes for for expertly cut fugu since 1920 – famous. They also do mean a deep- decades. Located in a basement you’re in safe hands. Order the fish fried cheese (mmm!). Whatever you near Umeda Station in Kita, as sashimi or try a multi-course menu do, don’t double dip – it’s a sanitary it’s become a no-frills breakfast with fugu cooked several different rule strictly enforced by the staff. institution (with great coffee). ways – best enjoyed sitting crossed kushikatu-daruma.com/tenpo_ kissa-sunshine.jp legged on tatami floor mats. doutonbori.html

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