DIWA DILEN WITH FINANCE MINISTER LIVING WITH ARTICLE PHOTO ESSAY HAS BHUTAN BLOWN ITS PATTERNS OF OPPORTUNITY TO LEARN VOLUNTEERISM FROM THE ECONOMIC BHUTAN p.30 DOWNTURN? p.21 p.27

Your Monthly Guardian NU 100 NOV-DEC 2013 VOLUME 1 ISSUE 10 www.theravenmag.com

BHUTAN’S PIONEER VOLUNTEER Waste Management

Waste management has been a growing concern in all the developing countries particularly in urban areas and Bhutan is no exception. Rapid urbanization, changing consumption patterns, prompt economic growth and population growth have been the driving factors. With the guiding philosophy of Gross National Happiness as a development philosophy and conservation of environment as one of its four pillars, waste management has been a key area of attention for the policy makers and the governance in Bhutan.

Solid waste was not a burdensome issue till the early 90s because the solid waste was mainly organic in nature. However, with the introduction of television and internet by the late 90s waste management became challenging with the organic waste being replaced more and more by PET bottles, plastic, papers etc. Nevertheless, the government support has helped curb these issues.

To curve this problem in Thimphu city, Thimphu Thromde (Municipality) has been trying various alternate ways. The waste management in Thimphu city is still in its rudimentary state and lacks a systematic waste collection scheme. However, Thromde has been annually spending Nu.11 million (about 18% of its annual overall budget) on waste management alone which comprises of waste collection, transportation and dumping at Memelakha Landfill (about 10km away from the core city). Thromde has also established a compost plant for composting waste from the Centenary Farmer’s Market and from some pilot areas under the PPP project funded by UNDP and JICA. With the establishment of Greener Way- for generations beyond, a private recycling company, recycling of PET bottles and cardboards has increased. Moreover, there are also instances of door-to-door collection by informal waste pickers who sells to licensed scrap dealers which is then taken to Indian border for sale. Similarly, waste paper collection system will soon be replaced with the operation of a private paper recycling plant at Bjemina industrial estate, which aims to recycle all the waste paper as well as to produce quality paper suitable for office use.

Thimphu Thromde has been trying to introduce 4 Rs in its existing waste management system but it is daily challenged by poor enforcement of rules and the absence of a systematic enforcement mechanism, illegal waste dumping, very low levels of community participation, lack of awareness on waste prevention and management and the general perception that tackling of waste management problems is the sole responsibility of the municipalities alone. These constrains are amongst some of the key reasons preventing the municipality to effectively manage its solid waste. We must not forget that it is a wholesome responsibility and reflecting on these words - “We must ensure that with development, there is also equitable growth and equal opportunities for all, otherwise we cannot truly say that we are a successful nation. Am I afraid of these challenges? Are you? I am certainly not. There is nothing to fear. But we must always be concerned, because that means we have understood the challenges we face and along with it the enormous responsibilities that follow.” – His Majesty the fifth King (9th RUB Convocation, 2013). Lets keep Thimphu Throm Clean and Green. NOVEMBER-DECEMBER/2013

BHUTAN’S PIONEER 16 Column 34 Whats your Quirk 10 VOLUNTEER

Plagiarism 35 Art

18 Opinion 36 Know Your Food

Children of a lesser God 37 Cafe Review PATTERNS OF BHUTAN 27 19 Happenings A La Carte

A First for Bhutan 38 Stage Review

Doctor volunteer Jawa

30 volunteerism 21 Article 39 Book Review

Has Bhutan Blown its Raise Your Hands, Opportunity to Learn KCD Productions from the Economic Downturn? The History of Bhutan, Dr. Karma Phuntsho 41 DIWA DILEN 23 Travel 43 Leisure The Ins and outs of Pilgrimage and the Adventures to Singye 45 Most Discussed Dzong.

46 Last Word 32 Thumbs Up / Down

33 Trends

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 1 LETTERS +TWEETS TO THE RAVEN

A sweet review of Forget Kathmandu in The Raven (I love that Bhutan fears being like Nepal). Manjushree Thapa, Author, Nepal

Issue 9 of Bhutan’s magazine The Raven - an important piece on child suicide. Trisha Nicholson, Writer/ Photographer/ Anthropologist, New Zealand

Happy to see The Raven raising important social issues. Not happy to see Wikipedia content copied verbatim without attribution. Boaz Shmueli, Rigsum Research Lab, Thimphu

Digital Himalaya is glad to host The Raven archive. Bhutan’s monthly news magazine Mark Turin, Anthropologist/ Linguist/ Associate Research Scientist, South Asian Studies Council, Yale Research Associate, Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology, University of Cambridge

You are welcome! The Raven is a real good magazine. But only monthly :( Thanks to YOU! Your magazine is a masterpiece! Chris Schul, Austria

Excited to read The Raven archives on Digital Himalaya before my trip to Bhutan Aliya Hoff, San Diego, CA

The print edition of The Raven is not so good in print. The letters are blurred, not so sharp. I think the designer or printer uses JPEG and not PDF for printing. Please check once what type of files they use for final printing. Pema Gyamtsho, Facebook

It gives me pleasure to read The Raven. Pema Gyeltshen, Thimphu

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 2 KUZUZANGPO!

Here we are - at the end of yet another year in our lives! It is time once again to seri- ously contemplate the past events and come up with resolutions again to improve the New Year, and hopefully also ourselves.

In a look back at the Year That Was, Bhutan saw major changes in 2013. The highlight of it was the general election in July that resulted in a new government. The divisive and polarizing politics leading up to this, something that peaceful Bhutan was not accustomed to, was quite an experience. While thankfully it did not result in violence or chaos that many other nations around us usually descend to during such times, we must remind ourselves that if we are not careful with our rhetoric and actions this might sadly happen in the future. To prevent this and to grow as a nation, we have to [email protected] tolerate a more open political discourse.

On the economic front, we have yet to see if the new government will do what it takes to rectify the bad loan situation with the banks and stimulate the economy. The Raven has an interesting analysis of this situation. [email protected]

This was a year that also saw a great deal happen in the social sector. The recent spate in suicides tells us that there is much we need to do as a society and it has to start in our homes and schools. Young people need direction. Increasing cases of substance abuse, crime and suicides largely amongst the younger generation reveals burdened and stressed minds. Things are no longer the same in Bhutanese society and we need new coping mechanisms and approaches. Fortunately we have amongst us many who have taken an initiative to do their part. With International Volunteers Day on December 5th, it was the perfect opportunity for The Raven to celebrate some of these people. There are many more out there – Tarayana Foundation, Bhutan Foundation, Bhutan Nuns Foundation and other Civil Societies whose amazing work we would love to highlight at some point. Bhutanese society has always been accommodating and giving and we www.theravenmag.com are increasingly seeing more of it through smaller groups – Help Shoe Bhutan, Bhutan Dragons Motorcycle Club – and individuals too.

For the media, it looks like the environment to be in this business is not getting any better. 2013 saw newspapers slowly closing office or scaling back as they incurred losses

write to and journalism suffered. While it is not the role of the government to protect the busi- ness of every publication, the interest to strengthen the fourth and fifth estates in other ways seems lackluster. Apart from a vague office order that ordered government offices to distribute advertisements equally among all media houses, with a special mention to one newspaper, there were no details as to how this should be executed.

We can only hope for the best in 2014! Wishing you all a Happy National Day and a Happy New Year! Sonam Ongmo Editor-at-Large

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 3 Karma Choden is a freelance counsultant and writer. She is the former editor of The Raven. PUBLISHER : Dechen Wangmo

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR : Kesang P.Dorji Email: [email protected] Azha Keza (Freelance Photojournalist) EDITOR AT LARGE : Sonam Ongmo Email: [email protected]

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REPORTER: Karma Wangchuk Rajesh Gurung is an inde- Email: [email protected] pendent artist AFD : Karma Wangchuk Tshewang Dem Email: [email protected]

Phone #Office: +975 2 33 77 11 Peky Samal Fax: +975 2 33 77 22 is a freelance journalist. She was formerly the news editor For Asia Orders Contact: +975 77111171 with “The Bhutanese.”

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The Raven is a monthly publication ( Registration no 302000004) Content Copyright © The Raven. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form. The Raven is not responsible for statements expressed by non-staff contributors or advertising claims. The magazine cannot be held responsible for loss or damage of unsolicited material. Subscription enquiries and change of address should be sent to The Raven PO Box 1047, Thimphu. For international orders outside Bhutan please contact at telephone no +975-2-33 77 11/33 77 22. Email: [email protected].

4 The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 a Tokha (lunch) to the crowd of more than a thousand people.

His Majesty also launched a book ’25 Years of Learning’ which compiles the technical knowledge gained during the 25 years of CHPC’s operation. The Prime Minister, Cabi- net Ministers and Civil Servants also took part in the celebration.

As of 30th September 2013, the Project had generated a total revenue of Nu.51, 826 M (Nu 51.826B), including, export revenue of Nu 49.5B.

bumthang

UNGUIDED TOURISTS NO LONGER AL- Thimphu LOWED AT MEBARTSHO Two young Indian tourists drowned in Me- FOR A BETTER BHUTAN This is not the first time a bartsho (burning lake) on October 30, 2013. On 8 December, 2013, the group of concerned citizens The deceased wife was 30 years old and the Chithuen Phendhey Associa- has collected signatures to husband was 29. Both bodies were recovered. tion, a CSO, collected 10000 support their cause. In 2009, Another Indian male tourist also drowned in signatures in support of their after the drowning death of 7 the Mebartsho two years ago. Following this petition to review the penal- children in the Wangchu river, incident, local leaders in Bumthang gathered ties for drug peddlers and in- parents and the community for the Dzongkhag Tshogdu (DT) on Novem- stitute government programs petitioned for an investigation ber 6th 2013, and came to a decision that, for the drug-affected popula- into the tragedy. henceforth, tourists would not be allowed to tions. There were signature visit Mebartsho unguided. collection drives in Thim- chukha phu, Paro, Gelephu, Samdrup SAMDRUPJONGKHAR Jongkhar, Phuentsholing and CHUKHA HYROPOWER PRO- Mongar. The day’s event was JECT, 25th ANNIVERSARY MAJOR DECLINE IN MANDARIN IN THE sponsored by Zimdra Food CHPC (Chukha Hydropower EAST Pvt Ltd. Corporation) celebrated its Sil- ver Jubilee on November 7th, The Mandarin auction yard in Samdrupjong- Prior to the initiation of the 2013. His Majesty the King, khar has seen a 75% drop in produce this year petition, the National Coun- graced the celebrations with with only 37. 4 MT of oranges delivered, com- cil of Bhutan had announced Her Majesty the Gyaltsuen. pared to last year’s 141.48 MT. that it would be reviewing the His Majesty awarded certifi- Narcotic Drugs, Psychotropic cates and mementos of appre- Producers and merchants have commented Substances and Substance ciation to 45 employees and 63 that the main reason for the decline in the Abuse Act in the upcoming former employees who served production and delivery of mandarin this year session, beginning January on the project for more than was due to a decrease in rainfall. 22, 2014. 25 years. His Majesty granted

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 5 Subscribe Today

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on news that Bhu- tan was going to OVER allow casinos.

“The day symbolises unity, cooperation and coordination of Bhutanese people. It was on this Tashi Group’s vice day the Bhutanese people, unani- chairman Wang- chuk Dorji During mously requested the first King to the launch of Bhu- be our leader.” tan Airlines’ new Privy Council Dasho Sangay Wangchuk. sector to Kolkata.

What doesn’t come from big busi-

During the signing ness houses comes from Taxi driv- of petition to the ers! government for Thukten Yeshi on Twitter harsher penalties for drug peddlers.

Malnutrition responsible for nearly half of all deaths of children under 5 Bhutan, 12th RTM at the 12th RTM, Thimphu

I pay my taxes, work hard for a liv- ing, and strive for a society which my children can be proud; thats pat- riotism for me. Drukyul (‏@Bhutanpolitics) on Twitter

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 7

CINEMA BOOKS MUSIC PLAY DANCE ART

LAUNCH key Date Time Place Venue

INTERNATIONAL DAY FOR ELIMINATION OF CUBAN MEDICAL SPECIALISTS IN BHUTAN VIOLENCE AGAINST WOMEN DEC 11-12 BHUTAN NOV 25 17 medical specialists from Cuba have The theme for this year’s International signed a Special Pay Package Contract Day for the Elimination of Violence Service for two years in Bhutan. They will Against Women is “Commit, Act, De- be posted to other referral and district mand” together to end violence against hospitals in the country. women. On November 25, Her Majesty Queen Mother Sangay Choden Wang- CONFERENCE chuck launched the State of World Population Report to observe the In- FORMALIZING AID, DEVELOPMENT AND PRO- ternational Day for the Elimination of GRESS Violence Against Women at RIGSS in DEC 11-12 Phuentsholing. The 12th Round Table Meeting (RTM) was held from December 11 – 12, 2013 EVENTS in Thimphu, Bhutan. The Government is FESTIVAL organizing the meeting in collaboration JOCV BHUTAN, 25TH ANNIVERSARY with the United Nations Development 106th NATIONAL DAY OF BHUTAN NOV 2-5 Programme (UNDP) Thimphu. DEC 17 In commemoration of the 25th Anniver- Bhutan celebrates the 106th NATIONAL sary of the Japan Overseas Cooperation The meeting was co-chaired by the For- DAY on December 17th. The day will be Volunteers (JOCV) in Bhutan, the Em- eign Minister, Lyonpo (Minister) Rinzin marked by an award of certificates of rec- bassy of Japan, Japan Foundation and Dorje and Mr. Haoliang Xu, the UN As- ognition for distinguished civil service JICA Bhutan Office in cooperation with sistant Secretary-General, UNDP Assis- personnel. And for the first time in the the Royal Government of Bhutan (RGoB) tant Administrator and Regional Direc- country the celebrations will also include showcased a presentation about Japan for tor, Asia and the Pacific. a raffle with very attractivce prizes for the Students along with a Film Show titled winners. Free tickets will be available SHODO Girls (2010/NTV/Directed by: 11th FYP will be the agenda to be dis- to all visitors at the Changlingmithang Ryuichi Inomata). The government of cussed in the meeting so as in order to football stadium. The Taxi Association of Japan also donated two new firefighting ensure further International assistance Thimphu (TAT) will also offer free service engines to the Royal Bhutan Police on with the national priorities for aid-effec- to the public for the first time. November 4th, 2013. tiveness.

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 9 BHUTAN’S PIONEER VOLUNTEER

“The Best Way To Find Yourself Is To Lose Yourself In The Service Of Others” Mahatma Gandhi

She is, without a doubt, Bhutan’s longest serving volunteer and phi- lanthropist. For decades she has worked quietly and dedicatedly be- hind the scenes for Bhutan’s im- poverished, destitute, ostracized, and sick, touching thousands of or- dinary Bhutanese lives in a way few have. Her name is on the lips of many whose lives she has changed. It is only fair then that on this In- ternational Volunteers day, we pay tribute to this amazing Bhutanese woman who has given off herself so selflessly and generously, not just for the Bhutanese people, but also for many beyond its borders in countries like Cambodia, Nepal, Thailand and India.

Ashi Kesang Wangmo Wangchuck is no ordinary woman. She may friends for a meal and thus do. The scourge was taking a be a princess, the daughter of the started a life-long friend- toll on innocent lives across the late Third King, His Majesty Jigme ship. “It was during these country and Lepers were peo- Dorji Wangchuck, and younger times in the 70’s, when she ple who were being shunned sister to Fourth King, His Majesty was on holidays that Ashi and ostracized by communi- Jigme Singye Wangchuck, but in learned about the sad and I “think she is ties. But in an era where there Bhutan she is known more famous- alarming prevalence of the was no treatment, this was the ly for her work with the Lepers, and leprosy epidemic in our in many ways only way to deal with it – set now more recently with the hospi- country,” Sangay Penjore up leprosy colonies as far away tal supporting numerous programs said. A new drug called Ri- responsible from human habitation. “Each under pediatrics, maternity, kidney, fampicin that helped build tablet cost Nu.1,200 which was psychiatry and cancer. resistance to leprosy had for eliminat- a lot of money those days so emerged on the market and ing Leprosy in Ashi began in earnest to raise Sangay Penjore, 62 is an old friend according to Sangay, Ashi funds.” According to Sangay, of Ashi’s having met her almost had heard about this. At Bhutan they organized Jam sessions, 40 years ago when she was but 13 that time Bhutan had lep- auctions, fairs, and even went years of age and he was about 20. rosy hospitals in Gidakom, door-to-door collecting dona- “She was just a student studying Khaling, Yebilepcha and tions – money, clothes, shoes in the U.K and I was working at Wamrong, and they were – whatever they could get. “She the Department of Manpower,” all full. Bhutan was aid didn’t want us to sit on the side- he said. After being introduced, reliant and there was little lines watching,” he said. Ashi invited Sangay and a group of ordinary Bhutanese could

10 The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 By the time she was 18, people and her group gave it em- into permanent shelters for close to her say they could see phasis and due importance some homeless. this was her calling – to improve that highlighted this cause. the lives of her fellow people. In Over the years Leprosy cases Agay Phurba, 80, from Da- a radical move she dropped out declined considerably to the gana is one such beneficiary. of college in California to pursue point it was eliminated. “The Alone, bereft and destitute, fieldwork in the Leprosy Control number of cases dropped to he had given up hope on life Program in Bhutan. According 1 per 1000 which means that altogether when he met Ashi to Sangay, Ashi decided to go and it had reached the point of Kesang who sent him to live live in one of the ostracized Leper elimination.”Thanks to Ashi at the guesthouse near the colonies in Patpachu, Lhuntse. and the dedicated Leprosy Jigme Dorji Wangchuck Na- During her time there, she was workers, Bhutan saw a re- tional Referral Hospital. He physically active in their daily treat of the scourge and most has been living there for the care. Sangay, who witnessed of the Leprosy Centers slowly At a time when past 12 years. “If it hadn’t Ashi at work, said she kept her- closed down. Unfortunately “ been for Ashi and this roof self busy assisting the health though, there has been a there were no over my head, I would have workers by taking blood sam- recent resurgence after all died a sad death a long time ples, washing patients wounds, these years. According to Dr. civil society or- ago,” he said. And the walls and chatting with them. Nado, a Chencho, 13 new cases have of this guesthouse resonate government employee, and now just been reported this year. ganizations with many similar stories. a well-known photographer, who Lobzang from Kanglung in was also a part of Ashi’s entou- “Looking back on those she was a silent eastern Bhutan and Rajesh rage to the east said, “It was years, I now realize that be- leader, Kumar from India cannot humbling to watch Ashi nurs- cause of Ashi we were able to imagine what would have ing, washing and changing pus- be a part of doing something single-handedly happened to them if it hadn’t soaked bandages and consoling good for Bhutanese society,” been for the guesthouse and patients. She is a true Bodhisat- said Sangay Penjore. mobilizing peo- Ashi’s support. “Though I tva.” He wouldn’t be the only one miss my family back home, I to call her that. But Ashi Kesang’s altruism ple to support know I couldn’t have been in a extends beyond that of the the needs of the better place,” said Rajesh, 30, “I think she is in many ways re- Leprosy program. At a time who has lived in Bhutan most sponsible for eliminating Lep- when there were no civil so- vulnerable and of his life. rosy in Bhutan,” said Sangay ciety organizations she was a Penjore. And he is not alone in silent leader, single-handedly the weak. Jigme Palden, 36, who is para- this thought. “ She was definitely mobilizing people to support lyzed, also lives at the guest- a pioneer, when it came to this the needs of the vulnerable house. He fell off a building kind of work,” said Dr. Chencho and the weak. Amongst her in 2010 crushing his spinal Dorji a psychiatrist at Thimphu many altruistic deeds, she cord, while he was painting Hospital. “Ashi and Dr. Sonam sold her expensive European a house. Soon after, his wife Tenzin, along with many of her car and donated the money to abandoned him and his two- friends have done wonders in Leprosy hospitals while she year old daughter. Desperate this field of work,” he said. “They drove a Toyota Jeep. She has and running out of options, were responsible for reducing the built guesthouses in Thim- he heard about Ashi Kesang’s stigma related to this illness,” he phu, Mongar and Trashigang generosity and submitted his said. for needy patients and their story through somebody he Dr. Chencho said that Bhutan caregivers who have no place knew. “No matter how much had the assistance of Missionar- to stay when they come into physical pain I am in, I don’t ies, Overseas Volunteers and our the towns for referrals. The feel so alone and neglected own health workers, but Ashi guesthouses have also turned anymore,” he said. “At least I

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 11 have someone who cares about wherever she can,” Sister again, as someone who me.” Tandi Pemo says. Ashi cares so deeply for her fel- also accompanies many low Bhutanese, Ashi has be- On one of her frequent visits troubled youth to the emer- come increasingly involved to the hospital, Nima Tshering gency room. During one in rehabilitation work for Tamang, 58, a homeless man, such trip to the ER she saw addicts. At the very initial smelling and in need of care was that the chance of survival stages when the psychiatric taken in by Ashi. Sister Tandi for critical patients could be ward had just been estab- Pemo the nursing superinten- increased with mobile ven- lished in early 2000, Dr. dent who has worked closely with tilators, which the hospital Chencho recalls her visiting Ashi for the past decades said lacked. “I was instructed to the ward simply out of in- that Ashi personally cared for procure these mobile venti- terest, to talk to the patients. the man and was very distraught lators which Ashi paid for,” “She brought them cakes, when he passed away. According she said. Her“ only books and little gifts and she to Nurse Tandi Pemo, he wasn’t instructions were seemed to enjoy chatting to the only one in which she took a In an effort to reach the them,” he said. “She then personal interest in. Lotay Tsher- most needy patients, Ashi that the funds go asked me if I needed sup- ing, a chronic schizophrenic, is Kesang started a welfare port and that the patients lucky to have the princess accom- fund for poor patients, ex- towards helping needed to do something to pany him to the psychiatric ward ecuted by Tandi Pemo and as many patients keep busy.” Together Dr. on his regular check-ups. the Medical Director. “Her Chencho and Ashi initiated only instructions were that who are a little arts and crafts pro- People close to Ashi say that she the funds go towards help- ject in which patients were takes a great interest in the small- ing as many patients who disadvantaged, encouraged to knit, make est details in the lives of these are disadvantaged, delin- delinquent or envelopes and paper bags, people. For instance she wants quent or poor,” said Nurse which were then sold. “The to ensure that the homeless pa- Tandi. This fund also pro- poor money was used for the pa- tients are re-united with family vides a monthly stipend to tients and this kept them members. Towards this, she even 40 needy patients. Recent- busy and occupied. They pays for announcements on the ly a similar fund has been enjoyed doing this,” he said. Bhutan Broadcasting Service, set up in Gelephu. which seems to work, as Budhi Dr. Chencho said that Lama Maya a 47-year-old psychiatric Beyond the home fron- Shenphen, a British Bud- patient was found by her family tier Ashi Kesang has also dhist monk living in Bhutan, through such an announcement. been very busy. In the early who has provided a great For Bhutanese patients traveling 1980’s she took time off to deal of support to addicts on referral to Indian hospitals work for an orphanage in and patients at the psychi- she helps pay for rented apart- Cambodia, an HIV/AIDS atric ward, also works with ments and sometimes funds clinic in Thailand and In- Ashi Kesang. “Together their entire treatment when the dia, for Leprosy patients they have coordinated a sys- hospital doesn’t. in Nepal and for Mother tem to provide opportunities Teresa’s Home of Dying in for rehabilitation for needy As a patron she has established Kolkata India. patients in Serbithang and clinics and wards for Leprosy, India. She has given gener- Cancer, Maternity, and Pediat- And just as Leprosy was ously towards this cause,” he rics and supports the Kidney a scourge in the 70’s and said. “The best part about and Psychiatric programs. She 80’s, Bhutanese society’s her is that she gives from even funded building a children’s recent scourge seems to the heart and she doesn’t park. “She seems to do good be that of addiction. Once do it for publicity or to im-

12 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2013 press anyone,” said Dr. Chencho. Apart from just the sick and Our generation, particularly the younger ones today, Sangay Penjore agrees. “She be- poor, her philanthropy also are struggling with many social problems. We are in lieves in what she is doing and encompasses the protection need of good role models and inspirations, but with this work comes genuinely from and preservation of Bhutanese all the information that we are bombarded with from a deep-seated compassion like a culture. Along with His Maj- foreign media, we tend to forget the role models and Bodhisattva. She doesn’t do it for esty the King, she is also the do-gooders in our own society and country. Like Ashi recognition.” Which may be the patron for “84000 – Translat- there are many Bhutanese who are also working hard reason why Ashi refused to talk ing the words of the Buddha,” and doing what they do best, striving to give back to about herself when The Raven a project initiated by Dzongsar society. But when it is done behind-the-scenes, we asked for an interview. Sangay Jamyang Khyentsee to make don’t hear about them nor do we make an effort to said that the idea of nominating the works accessible to the learn about them. Ashi is a classic example of the Ashi for the CNN hero award has Bhutanese public. work a true Buddhist does and should do – a life of occurred to him, but he feels she privilege could have easily allowed her to forget the wouldn’t want that. Ashi’s social work at the needy. Instead she has committed herself to a life- grassroots may not have been long cause of uplifting the suffering of ordinary peo- Tshoki Dorji, 23, from Trashi- largely recognized by Bhu- ple. It is something that we as educated Bhutanese gang is a recovering addict. He tanese society, but in 2008 should not take for granted, and aspire to do as well. abused drugs for 14 years. Hav- many were jubilant that she ing exhausted all goodwill of fam- was recognized internation- ily and friends he found himself ally when she was presented desperately alone. Lama Shen- the Mandala Award for Arts phen, who met him on the streets and Humanitarian Achieve- one day offered to get him into ment by the Rubin Museum rehab and Ashi Kesang paid for of Arts in New York. Along- it. On his way to recovery, he ar- side her was French Buddhist ranged a tour one day for Ashi to monk and author, Matthiew give her a glimpse of his life as an Ricard who was also honored addict in the back alleys of Thim- for his work in Asia. phu showing her places where “ people could avail the drugs. “For Many who know Ashi have There is a certain kind of once in my life, the help felt real,” made references of her work inspiration and satisfaction that said Tshoki, who now works as a to that of a Bodhisattva – waiter at Ambient cafe. someone motivated by great comes from helping people who compassion to work for the Meanwhile Nawang, 35, who also benefit of all sentient beings. need it the most recovered from his addiction “Nobody wonders why the sun with Ashi’s help is now a peer shines every morning. It just counselor at the psychiatric ward. does. Like the sun, Ashi also He has counseled more than 200 just does – it’s who she is. She youth in his four years with the is kind, warm, genuine and a Chithen Pendhey Association – a hands-on person,” said Lama group for recovering addicts. Shenphen. Then, perhaps like the sun is taken for granted rising everyday and sustain- “There is a certain kind of inspi- Karma Choden ration and satisfaction that comes ing life on earth, we take for from helping people who need granted people who are just it the most,” said Nurse Tandi good and do much for society Pemo, “and even as a Nurse I without expecting anything in learnt this from Ashi Kesang.” return.

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 13 COLUMN

PLAGIARISM

There is nothing worse for a newspa- that much harder? But the story of simple and comprehensive one from per, magazine, or a non-fiction book plagiarism doesn’t end there. There the Oxford Dictionary is – “The prac- publisher to learn that a piece of writ- are many people, especially artists, who tice of taking someone else’s work ing that they have published had been have been accused of plagiarism and and ideas and passing it off as ones plagiarized or fabricated. As an Edi- been sued for it. Bob Dylan is someone own.” In other words, it is stealing, tor, it gives you a sick, disgusted, and who comes to mind – probably a ge- and the same moral standards ap- sinking feeling, and you wonder how nius when it comes to adapting some- ply to this act as it does to stealing you didn’t catch it. But, like most un- one’s work as his own. Amongst the anything else, only, one does not get ethical acts, it has happened before many accusations of plagiarism is one penalized for it. and will continue to happen, even to in which he used several lines from the best of us. However, educating Japanese writer Junichi Saga’s book It is not uncommon on Bhutanese the public and spreading awareness “Confessions of a Yakuza” in his best social media to see many wise and on a practice that has blurred lines selling album “Love and Theft”. And witty updates and statuses, quotes in the age of the Internet and social it is said that artists do this all the time. and sayings that have been lifted media, is becoming increasingly nec- “Just don’t get caught” is what they say, from somewhere else, not attrib- essary. or do it in a way that you alter the idea uted, but passed off as their own. or work to make it your own. What people probably fail to real- I can now imagine how the New York ize is that when you don’t attribute Times Editors must have felt when While in the art world this may be ok work/words you have lifted, or credit they realized that Jayson Blair a for- – to adapt and make it your own – in them as quotes, it is plagiarism. And mer journalist who worked with the the business of journalism it is not. In when people find out, you look like paper from 1999 to 2003 had been the art world copyrights help protect a thief because you have just taken gloriously plagiarizing and fabricating their ideas and work to a certain ex- something that wasn’t yours and put articles for the renowned newspaper, tent, but in journalism there is no way it out there as yours. Plagiarism is not once, but over a period of time. of copyrighting every article or body of not only unethical but also a sign of The discovery of his plagiarism was work, except by putting your name on sheer laziness. A journalist or writer so shameful to the New York Times it. Even then, sentences and phrases who decides to lift work off another it was, they called it, the lowest point get lifted, if not the whole thing. We and use it verbatim or cleverly alter a in the 152-year old history of the news- just have to rely on our ethics and on few words here and there so that he/ paper. Sadly today if you google Jay- each other to point this out and catch she doesn’t have to do the legwork, son Blair, his name is associated with the unscrupulous ones who steal oth- tells you a great deal about his/her nothing, but plagiarism. ers work. character and work ethics. It also tells you their lack of respect for Then there was James Frey, author Closer to home, it was only a matter of other writers and their work. of “A Million Little Pieces”, who it time that this discussion would come turns out had fabricated parts of his up. Many Bhutanese have been bra- But if plagiarism in Bhutan were number one selling memoir. Oprah zenly getting away with passing off oth- confined to just Facebook statuses, Winfrey who had endorsed him and ers work as their own. But before we we in the journalism and education promoted him on her TV Book Club, get to it, lets define Plagiarism, because business wouldn’t have much to called him back to humiliate him the it seems that many don’t know, or don’t worry about. But it is not. A few way he had humiliated and duped the understand what it exactly means. Or weeks ago, The Raven received no- public. maybe they do, but they simply think tice from a reader that an article on they can get away with it because no- Mushrooms in the July/August issue How did he and Jayson Blair get away body is checking, and there is no pen- had lifted content from Wikipedia. with it, and what were they thinking? alty for doing it. Not only that, the reader also men- Did they not realize that when they tioned that the picture that was used worked with such high-profile or- What is Plagiarism? There are varying for the article was one that he had ganizations, the fall would become definitions of it out there, but the most taken and posted on his blog. Once

14 The Raven NOV-DEC , 2013 again, neither he nor his blog and saying that he had posted risk losing credibility. been accredited by The Raven them because she had given contributor, much to the shame him some of these pictures. In the age of the Internet and of The Raven. When the issue What the guide failed to re- with so much information was reported, an apology was is- alize was that even if some out there, plagiarists should sued to the complainer, but there of the pictures were given to remember - it is easy to lift was little that we could do as both him, he still didn’t have the and steal, but it is also easy to people responsible for that article right to pass them off as his get caught. The practice has – the contributor, and the editor own. The picture was taken by become so rampant especially of that issue, had already left the somebody else, not him and among academia and students organization. Many Bhutanese by refusing to acknowledge that it is taken very seriously who have noticed this kind of that, made him not only a thief “ by universities and schools. journalistic practice have aptly or sorts, but also a liar. While in the art In many reputed institutions described it as “Cut and Paste” world this may of learning you lose marks and journalism that seems to be quite A Bhutanese official from Edu- get a warning the first time, commonly practiced knowingly cation who had written a short be ok to adapt the second time it amounts or unknowingly by some. story and had it published in and make it to expulsion. For bigger in- a magazine in Bhutan was stitutions or news organiza- It would be fair to say that The rather surprised when he saw your own – in tions there are now ways to Raven had been warned that the story reappear in Kuensel the business of detect plagiarized work, but some journalists in the Bhuta- under somebody else’s name. for smaller ones (like The Ra- nese media have done this in “Kuensel [had] printed it with journalism it is ven), we just have to stay on the past – lifting information someone else’s name as the not. our toes, edit well, and rely on from Wikipedia and passing it author ...lifted from a maga- the ethics of our contributors off as their own. Accreditation zine I contributed to,” he said. and editors not to engage in for quotes and information lifted Upon calling Kuensel and ask- this practice. And if they do, was stressed to The Raven writ- ing for an explanation, he was they should just remember ers and editors, but probably not told that they had no idea that that their lazy and unethical enough. he had written it, as the person practices will harm not just who claimed to have written that paper or organization, Coincidentally a few days later on it had contributed it to Kuen- but damage their own reputa- Facebook an American woman sel. The person wasn’t a staff tion. Eventually, people come who had visited Bhutan and cel- writer. to know and there is nothing ebrated her wedding in a tradi- more awful for a writer or tional Bhutanese ceremony had While it is understandable journalist to be slapped on put an angry status about how that The Raven, if not Kuen- with the label of a plagiarizer. her pictures had been stolen by sel, at least has valid reasons her Bhutanese guide, who was for failing to check and catch now posting them as his own. plagiarism because of a lack of She seemed very disturbed by trained personnel like editors, this. proofers, and copy-editors, the blame still falls on us for fail- After a list of sympathetic posts ing to do so. We are ultimately from her friends, there was an responsible for carrying such angry comeback from the Bhuta- work, and we must own up to Sonam Ongmo nese guide who seemed to think it when we realize these er- he had done nothing wrong, rors, even though it means we

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 15 OPINION

CHILDREN OF A LESSER GOD

month back I was at the Thim- are ill, have made mistakes in life, or tion, and other mental and behavioral A phu hospital to see the psychia- are in less fortunate circumstances than issues can be integratedand helped in trist when I saw three young girls with themselves, never thinking of giving their recovery. a middle-aged woman. Observing them hope, a new lease of life, another them closely I realized that the older chance or a reason to smile by scorning Krishna pointed out that in Bhuta- woman was one of the girls’ mother, and shunning them. nese society, the major cause of drug an alcoholic, who had been persuaded addictions and alcoholism is family to come to see the psychiatrist by her The attitude is the same those mired in problems. daughter. One of the girl’s, a friend of the world of substance abuse. that daughter, meanwhile, kept com- Krishna KumariBiswa, who has been “If a relationship breaks, the person plaining: “Why should a daughter bring a rehabilitation center counselor for also breaks,” she said. This is the rea- her mother along if she is reluctant?” three years now, said that most young- son why acceptance especially from Then they went on to discuss loudly sters aged 13 to 25 years took marijuana, family is so important when a person about the “cuckoos” brought in to see while many aged 25 to 50 were abusing is recovering from his addiction. A the psychiatrist. Being a schizophrenic alcohol. very supportive environment is nec- patient myself, I was more offended essary when they are learning to leave than hurt by their attitude. I am sure “Many of them feel they are outcasts, their addictive habits. “Most of them there are many other suffering mental isolated, unloved and unwanted by the have faced rejection in life and there- patients like me who would have felt society,” she said adding that they had, fore are full of hatred directed towards the same. Mental patients are also sick what she termed,“character defects”, themselves and others,” said Krishna. people like any other ailing person which worsened the problem caus- Asked about her own experience with and to term them “abnormal” or “rav- ingthem to misbehave, steal and com- this particular group, she said that the ing mad” is an absolute insult to the mit crimes. more she worked with them, the more illness and those suffering from it. It she understood them. is like looking down on an HIV/Aids Asked how she dealt with recovering patient or any other patient and making substance abusers, she said that the first “You have to use both your head and a mockery of their illness. thing was to be genuinely friendly and heart to deal with them” she said. loving to them. She says that gaining A councilor’s work, according to her, By the looks of it, these young girls their trust is very essential and that one is to breach the gap between the ad- seemed they were privileged and edu- has to be an extremely good listener and dict and the society/family. “The root cated. They were probably lucky to lead talk to them without being judgmental cause for many cases of relapse is of- comfortable lives and fortunate enough or dictating to them, but rather making ten because of a feeling of rejection not to have illnesses that others had. suggestions in a gentle, frank and open and acceptance from family members, But here they were, judging others who manner. She also gives classes “based friends and society.” by fate or circumstance were less fortu- on the reality of addiction”. “You have to nate than themselves. I quietly took in let them open up and it’s always better Therefore, in a society where we hold the irony of the situation and thanked they go to rehab,” she said. family values as a strong foundation myself that I had a better sense of judg- for societal growth, it should go with- ment in life; a judgment that allowed We may all not be social workers or out saying that so-called “normal” peo- myself to be more empathetic to those counselors but it is keeping in mind ple need to, and should, extend their who were different or less fortunate the vulnerability of these people who are understanding for the ill. And if they than myself, even if I happened to be- struggling with the illness of addiction, can’t do that, at least refrain from voic- long to the group of “cuckoos”. that we shouldhave some empathy to ing prejudiced, hurtful and offensive their struggle. Such an understanding opinions upon Children of a Lesser It’s a pitywhen so called educated peo- – to not look down or make fun off this ple, perhaps literate is a better term illness – is needed on the part of society than educated, ostracize people who so that people who suffer from addic- Peki Samal

16 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2013 HAPPENINGS A First for Bhutan

22 year old Yeatho Lhamo Penjore, a teacher at the Thimphu Primary School, first started working out at a local gym in Thimphu in mid 2012. A year and a half later, on November 17th 2013, Yeatho became the first woman ever to compete in the World Body- building and Physique Sports Champi- onship (WBPF) in Budaörs, Hungary. She competed in the Model Physique category and was also awarded a medal of appreciation from the World Body- building and Physique Federation for being the first Bhutanese woman ever to compete at the championship.

Kesang P. Dorji

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 17 A Doctor who is also a Volunteer The planet does not need more successful people. The planet desperately needs more peacemakers, healers, restorers, storytellers and lovers of all kinds. - Dalai Lama

become a Doctor. A facebook page dedicated to Dr. Lotay “My perception of religion had has a fine description of his good work. changed by then,” said Dr. Lotay. There are also many who have come to “Before I thought that to do good I support his efforts. All in all, Dr. Lo- had to become a monk, but I learned tay’s efforts seem to be snowballing into as I continued with my education something big – setting an example by that there were many ways through doing. which I could help people, and be- coming a Doctor was one of the Karma Wangchuk best,” he said. And so right from the beginning after he joined the hospital, Dr. Lo- “There is a misconception amongst tay began working overtime for free many that Voluntary work is some- performing numerous surgeries and thing that only Chilips” do, said Dr. check-ups on weekends. According Lotay, a urologist who once worked at to him, there seemed to be a total the Jigme Dorji Wangchuck National underutilization of the resources Referral Hospital in Thimphu. Dr. available at the hospital. This was Lotay quit in 2012 to join politics, but because there weren’t enough Doc- although unfortunate for him that he tors. According to him there are 4 didn’t make it, it was fortunate for Operation Theaters in Thimphu. many Bhutanese who now receive his Only one remains open for 24 hours services. the other three from 9 am until 3 pm. He is now spending his days trave- ling around the country with a team His motivation stems from a deep- of voluntary medical workers per- seated need to change attitude to- forming free surgeries for patients wards work. “Just qualifying aca- who, otherwise, would have to wait demically to become a Doctor is not for months to see a Doctor, often risk- enough,” he said, “this profession ing their health and even lives. On needs you to sacrifice many things a 10-day free surgery service stint in more. In this profession we are Bajothang, Wangdi recently, he per- dealing with human beings at their formed 136 surgeries amongst many most critical stages in their lives – other services provided. If this num- when they need help.” According ber of people went to the hospital, it to him, there were many ways of would take about 6 months, he said. being a role model or leading the Dr. Lotay is the middle child in a fam- way for the younger generation in a ily of 3 boys. Coming from a reli- society that desperately needs these gious home where both his older and services – by going the extra mile to younger brother, were committed to make a difference in people’s lives. Buddhism as monks he decided that “And the government has to do its when he finished grade 9, he too part too, provide better working ar- would become a monk. But his par- rangements for health workers. ents who had already two boys in the monasteries decided against it. And There has been a great outpouring thanks to that intervention, Dr. Lotay of gratitude from people who have went on to complete his studies and benefitted at the hands of the Doctor.

18 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2013 ARTICLE

Has Bhutan Blown its Opportunity to Learn from the Economic Downturn?

Acknowledging a problem said one official familiar with the problem. fects the country’s growth and people’s lives.

They say accepting the presence of So the big question is – Is the pre- In Bhutan, the credit story is made more a problem is the first stage to solv- sent government taking the right complicated because of our currency peg ing it. That seems to apply to our measures to prevent another eco- to the rupee and our reliance on imports. economic situation as well and eve- nomic downturn and Rupee issue? Loans means that as the money lands in ryone seems to be on board with In order to understand how the remedy people’s hands for businesses, housing and the idea that we now have to work works, it is important to understand the cars, imports go up. Since Bhutan does not on resolving it. But judging by the fundamentals of the problem. By the time produce anything it imports almost every- measures we are taking, it looks like Bhutan became a democracy in 2008, Bhu- thing. And once the demand for imports we are simply treating the symp- tan’s economic growth rate was at an un- increases, it automatically increases the toms but not curing the disease. precedented 8 percent and there was a lot demand for Rupees and foreign currency. of money – excess liquidity – in the system According to Karma Y. Raydi, a member of The story of what led to the eco- and in the Banks. This excess money need- the National Council, even if the banks have nomic downturn is something that ed to be invested in the market and Banks enough cash, the Rupee issue will always be has happened before, not just in needed to show returns to shareholders. there. “Not having enough Rupees doesn’t Bhutan, but most recently also in mean our banks don’t have money. They Ireland, the U.S and Greece – albe- In any other scenario Banks would be fund- are independent problems, but in this case it on a much larger scale with even ing the hydropower projects or other big it looks like each made the other worse.” more damaging repercussions that government projects because big projects went global. It started off with the would seek assistance from the Banks, As a result, in Bhutan there may be a need to housing loans. It seems to have but in Bhutan these are already funded put in policies for housing that provide subsi- happened very much the same way by overseas aid or directly by India and so dies for people who build traditional homes it did in Bhutan, according to of- the Banks had limited viable investments. that would lure people to build houses that ficials familiar with the problem. What or who could they lend to? Obviously entail buying local material and using local private businesses, and to individuals for artisans. Do we need glass fronted build- There is more than enough blame housing and cars, which has always been ings that highlight imported materials and to go around. The people’s focus on the case. Banks seem to prefer cars and take away from the local design ethos? If consumption and real estate specu- houses because they have collateral that is we are focused on linking design and plan- lation, the government’s spending easier to value and look to for repayment. ning and import policies the pressure for and regulations, the banking sys- This may seem like a good idea for the imports may be reduced considerably. This tems poor lending practices and Banks but it may not be the best path for may also mean that the government en- even the Royal Monetary Authority economic growth. Did the Banks make the sures cheap and efficient delivery of wood failing to monitor the Banks and same mistakes as in other economies by from within the country rather than from the Financial Institutions when the placing too much focus on the percieved outside, which would mean a slight adjust- economy was riding high, leading value on the collateral, and not enough ment in our environmental policies too. to the overall crisis. This seems to on the borrowers real ability to pay? For example, why do we import wood floors be the consensus amongst many when we have the best wood available locally? within the system. “What many This was very similar in the case of the in Bhutan fail to understand is U.S, Ireland and Greek housing crisis When the government realizes that bad that the economic downturn was where people were given housing loans loans are growing too fast, rupees are flow- something that happened before in irrespective of whether they had suffi- ing out, and the balance sheet of Banks are the early 1990s on a smaller scale, cient income to pay back the loan. When weak based on the Capital Adequacy Ratio, because of the same mistakes that Banks became too loose on loans and they can’t write new loans. Bad debts affect the people, the government, and took on risky lending, somebody should the capital base and one way the government banks made. If the government have monitored it. Why? Because bad could have stemmed the Rupee issue would doesn’t correct the situation the loans lead to poor repayment and the have been by selling some dollars from our right way, this problem will hap- Banks ability to make new loans and the reserve. This is a sensitive issue because Bhu- pen again and it could be worse,” pricing of property and in the end this af- tan historically did not earn much foreign

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 19 reserves or rupees. Bhutan’s conserva- “When you inject liquidity into the banks targeted sectors but maybe it could be put tism in this area was reflected in the (through the ESP) the demand for Rupees to better use benefitting the people directly new constitution which requires the is again going to go up because people through funding of development projects government to maintain a foreign will once again get loans to buy cars, ma- rather than bailing out the Banks. The Eco- exchange reserve of 12 months of es- chinery, and construction materials– all nomic Stimulus Plan does not seem to in- sential imports but there is no clear of which requires imports,” said a govern- clude any actions that addresses the underly- definition of what is in that basket. ment analyst. The ESP, the analyst said, ing problems that led to the current situation “The government is cautious be- is like paracetamol that soothes the head- and it does not force banks to tighten their cause our reserves are not really ache temporarily but doesn’t really root belts. So while the banks may claim they earned from exports, but built over out the problem. “The ESP to me is not don’t have capital to make new loans or pay many years from aid money. So really the curative medicine, but some- back the goverment debt they will be able to there is a general understanding thing has to be done and we cannot leave continue paying dividends to their owners. why we are conservative or cautious our banks without liquidity, allowing our when it comes to spending these re- economy to come to a standstill,” he said. With no repercussions for the Banks and serves,” said GNHC secretary Karma the borrowers bad behavior where they Tshiteem. But the government has So what is the curative measure to pre- took loans to speculate on property or buy sold these reserves before and the vent another such occurrence? How does vehicles this is likely to happen again. “If reasons for viewing rupees and other this affect the average Bhutanese? Are we want a strong economy,” said one ex- foreign currencies as fundamentally we paying a price/Will we pay a price pert, “we have to use our own domestic different may no longer hold. After if this issue is not resolved correctly? solutions to balance the market economy all, Bhutan now receives over 100,000 According to one perspective the gov- to solve these problems. Another handout tourists a year and exports signifi- ernment is giving low cost money to only weakens the system in the long run. cant electricity and other resources. Banks but nothing is being done to find The Banks should have been told to solve out what actually went wrong. If rapid their own problems to raise capital instead So all of these factors seem to have loan growth and poor lending standards of waiting for the government, or the Gov- come together to produce a unique were the problem, have the banks and ernment of India to solve their problems economic situation. The Banks and the RMA studied how this happened and for free by claiming it was the government’s financial institutions had given out demanded action on loan practices and rupee issue that caused the problem.” Ac- too many loans some of which are the collection of bad loans? “What the cording to the expert, this problem could’ve now underperforming, the RMA government is doing is it is bailing out been solved domestically without waiting was not as vigilant as it might have the Banks so there is little cost from the for India to save us. “Painful adjustments been and the government was per- bad decisions they made and they are not have to be made not just by some, but by all, haps too slow to manage the ru- being held responsible for the bad loans.” when such grievous mistakes are made,” he pee deficit and we have a toxic mix said. These adjustments apparently would of a credit and rupee shortage. So how do we make the Banks account- also have to be planned out carefully to mini- able then? One only has to look to other mize impact on the people and the economy. The Economic Stimulus Plan markets to find solutions. In the US The current government is now try- and Europe the banks were forced to “Basically we need Bhutanese to promote ing to resolve this issue it seems, raise capital from the markets and cur- savings and consume less. The savings through an Economic Stimulus Plan rent shareholders were diluted in their should then be channeled by Banks to pro- (ESP). The plan is that it will inject ownership. Weak banks were foreced ductive investments that give good profit Nu.5 billion to stimulate the Bhuta- to merger with strong banks. If govern- to the entrepreneur, which then gives rev- nese economy that will hopefully ment bailouts were required they were enue to the government and jobs to the solve the liquidity crunch. Some see the last resort and they were expensive Bhutanese. That is what the 11th plan this as a corrective measure, but is it a so the bank shareholders and manage- is focusing on,” said Karma Tshiteem. cure or does it just treat the symptons? ment were accountable for the poor loans It seems then that our recent so called they made. And how do they do this? By Economic Crisis provided us with the big- Because, Economists say, that un- selling Bank shares in the market and if gest challenge to achieve and execute self- less Banks are made accountable, they can’t raise the money and they want sufficiency in a way that we so often talk the same thing is likely to happen the government to bail them out, then and dream about. But maybe because we again. The banks now have new the government should make them pay a lacked an understanding or a cohesive eco- capital to invest, so they will give out price, and not at a subsidized loan rate as nomic plan we once again took the easy loans as a result, creating the same our government is doing right now. The way out – by looking for more handouts. demand for Rupees and the same stimulus money is supposed to be used Sonam Pelvar issues and problems all over again. in part for directed lending to certain

20 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2013 TRAVEL The Ins and outs of Pilgrimage

and the Adventures to Singye Dzong

“Geographical pilgrimage is the Pilgrimage is supposed to be the journey help me benefit others,” I pray, though a bit symbolic acting out of an inner jour- great enabler for this endeavor: an half-heartedly. I’m not sure whether I’m doing this as ney, the interpolation of meanings act of leaving the comforts of our a selfish conquest or for altruistic growth. and signs of the outer pilgrimage.” physical, ‘worldly’ homes to find a spiritual one. We set off for the base. “Today will be very difficult – The Cistercian monk Thomas for you,” The DHO warns, chuckling. “But tomorrow Merton How better to do it than to set out to and the day after will be much worse.” How comfort- the top of some mysticalpeak that ing. Locals, it seems, do not have a high regard for The Motivation is really unknown to the rest of the the trekking abilities of foreigners. I’m determined We were warned – from the very (published) world. Just try Goog- to prove him wrong. man who enticed us to go on the ling “Singye Dzong” - you’ll find adventure. close to nothing that reveals any- The road ends, and all you can see is a thin, rocky thing meaningful about the place. trail that disappears into a dense mass of trees in the In a letter to prospective pilgrims, mountains. Such an unceremonious beginning, I Dzongsar Khyentse Rinpoche, the The Outer Singye Dzong think, but there’s no other visible way. “You should celebrated Bhutanese Buddhist start,” DHO exhorts me, as he makes arrangements teacher, stressed the difficulty of Day One: Going Khomatose with others for packages and other items that need to the journey many of us were hop- go up for the drubchen. “There are 300 people going ing to make: I arrive at Khoma, the village base, up today. We’ll see you on the way.” “We always knew it was going to people gather at Nado’s, a small, be a tough journey, but even us shack-like restaurant that’s arrang- I begin moving, along with porters and horses. What Bhutanese didn’t fathom the ex- ing horses, porters, and food along I didn’t realize is that porters are living human beings tent of the difficulty. It is reallllly the way. A couple of monks, some carrying human-sized loads - some as heavy as 80 difficult. This is the hardest jour- elderly locals, and me. kilograms. Most of them seem to be shorter than five ney I’ve taken myself. It’s very I went alone on the trip, to the be- feet, weigh less than half their load, and possessing long. I’ve never seen this much wilderment of many Bhutanese. intensely vascular legs. They’re wearing shorts and mud in my life.” “Where are your friends?” “Do some, almost audaciously, wear chapals. The horses, you have a guide?” Nope. Going carrying similar loads, trot sure-footedly ahead. His plan to conduct a 10-day alone makes sense for a pilgrim; drubchen kindled a surge of in- otherwise it becomes a picnic with It’s not too long before the trail starts to roller coaster terest for people to make the trip friends. I should be uncomfortable - up steep slopes and down sharp drops. The stress to one of the most sacred sites in in my “inner journey” and without accumulates quickly. An hour and a half in, I really Bhutan – Singye Dzong, one of any crutches or safety nets to fall start to feel the 18 kilograms of my backpack weigh the eight places in Bhutan and back on. down on me. My head bandana is already drenched Tibet blessed by Guru Rinpoche. This status, though, ends before with sweat, and I heave as I release my baggage and the trip even begins. One of the sink into rocky cavity. I drink half of the ORS (oral Located near the remote Chinese first people I meet, the Lhuentse rehydration salts) infused water in my flask. This is border in Lhuentse, Singye Dzong District Health Officer (DHO), for is no sunny walk to Taktsang; it’s some reasonfelt compelled to adopt a three-day, 3,000-meter ascenta- me into his group and arrange a long a meter-wide path that can porter for me. Cool. If I get sick or only be traversed by foot – for 90 injured, he can help me out, right? kilometers. I gratefully accept the offer, “inner journey” be damned. After sorting out all the paper- work, I joined on as a struggling, There’s also a strong adrenaline and still very much confused, stu- rush for the journey to begin, and dent of Rinpoche’s, trying to tune I try to orient my motivation and my own motivation to practice. chant aspiration prayers. “May this singye dzong

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 21 to offer: tubs of boiled eggs, ema datshe, rice and spinach. It’s a feast. “Look over there, sir,” Dorji says, pointing to some distant clouds, which our path appears to lead to. “That’s our destination for today - Tshikhang. Only few hours away.”

We move ahead and pass through a small village, Khomagang. It’s beautiful and quaint. We pass by fenced-off fields of what looks like golden wheat, small anti- quated white clay chortens, and eventu- ally enter a more well-paved path with a line of two-story buildings, horse stables, outhouses and, hard-to-believe, people liv- ing here. I think this is Tshikhang, but Dorji corrects me. “Still a few more hours, sir,” he says, ending my sense of relief. MATTEO MIEL Dzongsar khyentse rimpoche It’s 5pm when we reach Tshikhang. I look to stake out a place for my tent. going to be tough. man prepares to double his own load. It’s Dorji finds a place. This is the first time light - only 6 kilograms - and I offer to in my life that I’ve ever setup a tent, but As I rise, one of the members of the take it. I pull the same trick Dorji did to I take out all the materials with the confi- DHO’s team, Dorji, stops. “Sir, I me and just load up. I’m assuming we’ll dence of veteran camper. Dorji sees right think you will have tough time with meet at the top, at least. through me and takes over connecting the that bag,” he points out. He’s al- poles to the body, and attaching the cover ready carrying the DHO’s camping The rest of the day’s trek is a long, consist- to the ground. By the time he’s assembled backpack, which looks to be at least ent alternation between patches of forest everything, the sun has almost fully set 30 kilograms. “Let me take it.” He clearing, where the sun beats down with and we feel a slight drizzle of rain. says this in a shockingly uncontrived intense strength, and cooler shade. We manner; he really wants to carry my stop every so often by a drub chu to relax. I walk over to the bigger camp house near load. I politely refuse, but, before I Along the way, Dorji tells me about his the beginning of the campsite where a can do anything, he lobs my bag atop life: how he works as a caretaker for the tarp-covered hut reveals a makeshift his other one. It somehow balances, Khoma Basic Health Unit; how he’s been kitchen, busy with makeshift cooks serv- perfectly, and he continues walking at up-and-down the SingyeDzong path over ing warm dinner: suja, rice and kewa dat- the same pace. 15 times. Including once with the Queen she. I devour a full plate, brush my teeth mother. He excitedly recounts how his and rush to my tent. The rain has picked “Come with me, Sir,” he insists. “We’ll first trip outside of the country was to up and with only darkness surrounding take lunch together later.” He reaches take his daughter to a hospital in Delhi us the only option is, really, to settle in for his mobile to turn on his Dzong- to check on an abnormal respiratory con- for the night. kha songs and project them as loud dition. He is a really, really nice guy with as possible from the weak speakers. a heart of gold. In the wee hours of the morning my knees and joints throb with agony, as if, Not wanting to appear as a pampered, At around lunchtime, we reach a pretty overnight, the packhorses had walked all helpless westerner, I look for some- breathtaking clearing with a couple of over them. My back, in spite of the day’s thing to carry. We pass some people farmhouses facing a cascade on the light load, is also cringing. ‘This is good,’ stopping to break and eat cucumbers. neighboring mountain. It’s the first mo- I tell myself. ‘Just watch the pain. Don’t Dorji speaks with them, and discov- ment of peace we get. We don’t have food, judge it. There’s no mountaintop without ers the elderly woman will be head- but Dorji has friends who are picnicking going through the valley of the shadow ing back down. The group needs the invite us over and I’m done playing games of death.’ small red backpack, however, and a - I delightfully accept. And they have a lot It doesn’t help. I pop two ibuprofen pills

22 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2013 the camp site and pass out. ankle-high pits that splashed pants and at why they’re drinking tea in the first dampened boots and hopes. Forget place. Tea dehydrates you. It’s a diuretic Day Two: There will be MUD about the scenery; I felt trapped in the (meaning it makes you pee). canopies of the jungle. There is little to “Sir, wake up.” It’s 6am. Dorji has un- appreciate as tired bodies move ahead. I meet some foreigners flanked by a zipped my tent. “Come get breakfast.” group of soldiers and guides. One even The pain has subsided, though I’m Even worse is the peculiar feeling of rides a horse! They happen to be the still really sore. Dorji has bad news: de-ja-vu the path creates. Every corner Rinpoche’s guests and Jindas (donors), the Gup has called him down, and brings the hope of some kind of refuge, presumably wealthy, long-time students so he won’t be with me today. Being some kind of sign that ‘yes, you’re get- from Taiwan, Hong Kong, and Thai- the bodhisattva he is, he redistributes ting closer’. But every corner looks the land, working for Rinpoche and serving some of weight of my bag into the same. You’re in some kind of eternal as patrons. Encountering them among DHO’s, which will now be carried by recurrence, a treadmill of mud, rocks, the mass of Bhutanese coming up is a packhorse, and brings the weight of and roots that goes on and on. Break refreshing. Nice as they are, they were my bag down to about 10 kilograms. spots are hard to come by, as every- moving a bit too slowly. I could have hit I’m grateful, but saddened to lose my thing’s wet; there’s hardly any sun and the brakes and hobnobbed out with them guardian angel. it’s still drizzling. - cool people that I could communicate with - but my inner voice tells me to keep The DHO appears from one of the Without Dorji, I start to feel restless. moving. No easy sailing on the path to army houses and greets me. “Today, I’m in the middle of nowhere, there are enlightenment. the path to Thangkarmo will be double- families briskly passing me by, and we tough. Hope your boots are waterproof. have passed the threshold of no phone Incredibly, the path gets worse. All the There will be mud!” He says this with signal - meaning from here on, no con- elements conspire together to increase some intensity as one would the title tact with the outside world. I finally have their intensity: heavier rain; mud with of the Daniel Day Lewis film “There what I’ve been yearning for; I’m kind of greater viscosity; steeper slopes; roots that will be blood!” alone. It’s pretty depressing. (Not really smack into the arch of your foot. I prayed alone there are 300 other Bhutanese!) for the sun to arrive. Rain had transformed yesterday’s path into a marshy nightmare. What was Many of the Bhutanese, on the other Just as all hope dissipates and the sun once a dry, manageable uphill walk hand, seem to be approaching it more begins to set, we reach the campsite. It’s was now a sludgy trial of keeping my easily. I start to receive invitations to not a welcoming site. Thangkorma is eyes glued to the ground in an almost “stop by and have some tea” where hardly ideal for camping; the grounds are zen-like, single-pointed concentration groups have settled on dry boulders and muddy, and whatever dry area there is, to find the right rocks and tree roots to logs to rest. Not only am I too angry has been occupied. I can’t find the porter land my feet on and avoid the muddy, to receive their kindness, I’m baffled with my tent. People looked relaxed near

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 23 bonfires, laughing and drinking tea, is cooler and rare, and majestic cliffs and all. even singing and it is getting cold in start to dominate the landscape. Then Within 30 minutes, it’s raining again, but my soaked and muddied boots and we reach a signboard: this time it’s also freezing. I find my new pants. ‘group’ from the day and we discover the I walk off. I’m cold, but I really need “Singye Dzong” hut where a volunteer staff of ex-gomchens to cool down or I might scream. I Though we are still some ways from were brewing tubs of hot water and tea meet some acquaintances, including the camp, we are brought into living with a fire. a few foreigners, from Thimphu and contact with the energies of this power we share a cup of whisky near a fire. place. We cross a few more bridges, and As we sit and shiver, I start to feel a richly They’re also feeling what I’m feel- we see some prayer flags, tarp-covered charged, magical feeling of togetherness. ing; an acute sense of despair, aching houses, and clouds of smoke. It’s the We are a community bound by spiritual body pain. But they also feel resilient. clearing we’ve all held our breaths for. purpose. Whatever lives we had before Again, I find that I’m not really alone here just don’t hold weight; they become on this. We somehow find a way to The Power Place essence-less, aren’t they, anyway?. laugh at it all, how incredibly difficult The final leg is an all-too-familiar path this whole adventure really is. of rocks, mud, and incline. This time, The Inner Pilgrimage: An Act of Offering however, there are no more illusions Day Three: The Promised Land of arrival - we are actually here.We’ve It’s a spiritual axiom that really deep spir- made excellent time; it’s only 2:30pm. itual teaching, practice, and transmission I feel revived. This is it, the last day of A bench invites us to sit, relax, and just can only be shared with someone who flagellating ourselves with this tortur- drop everything. We sit, arms over each deeply wants to receive it. To want to re- ous path. You could throw me any- other’s shoulders, and take time to wit- ceive this profound teaching would mean thing - an avalanche, an earthquake, ness, for the first time, what our desti- that we’re willing to be offered up to it. an army of leeches - and I would be nation looks like. ready to walk through it. Nothing And having come to my destination, it could surprise me at this point, nor From where we are, we can see the ad seemed to dawn on me – this is what pil- could it drown my resolve. I will be at hoc pilgrim village that has emerged. A grimage is for: to target our inner obstacles Singye Dzong today or I will be dead. stream slithers through the valley where and ways of holding back from others, by hundreds of tightly packed tents. The offering everything – our body, our posses- After a few bowls of thuep (rice por- DHO said at least 1,000 people would sions, our lives, and our whole experienced ridge) and tea, I’m moving. eventually come, but it looks like more. world. Only after a few weeks of reflection Smoke billows from many of the en- do I see how experiencing all of that drudg- The day goes quickly. I meet a young claves of pilgrims that have likely come ery and struggling provides a way for the group of pilgrims kind enough to offer together and are probably feasting on subconscious material – the anger, the me some cashews and raisins. “Take some tea. Mountains of pine encase us faulty assumptions, the paranoia, and so some energy bars, brother,” they say. I into a bowl of activity. on – to be brought to conscious awareness. think I’m finally starting to strip away my inhibitions and open up to other Singye Dzong is not like the other I experienced so many swings and mo- fellow pilgrims. I join them for what mighty fortresses popular across Bhu- ments of darkness on the trip. But this would be the rest of the way. tan. ‘Dzongs’, in the context of Singye ‘darkness’ is not my or anybody else’s na- Dzong, refers to ‘abodes’; in this case, ture. If we take the opportunity, it’s some- Around 2pm, we cross a bridge to a the eight caves or rock structures where thing that can be offered up to its empty bevy of boulders and stones. The sky Guru Rinpoche and Khandro Yeshey ground and source. In return, we can ex- is clear and the sun is beaming - a Tshogyel meditated. The name Singye perience moments of being offered up to welcome arrival. We climb over the Dzong, or “abode of the lion”, is de- our deepest spirituality, rather than our ego rocks, our mid-soles and arches now rived from the shape of the hillock on clinging, and released. in pain from jumping over tree roots. which the cave where Guru Rinpoche The vegetation gradually becomes meditated is located. Supposedly, from thinner with dwarf bamboos, scrub an aerial point of view, one can see the Manny Fashiri rhododendrons, and conifers. The air full features of a lion - head, body, tail

24 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2013 Patterns of Bhutan

Bhutan’s unique arts and crafts have been inspired by nature itself and the creative imagination and artistry of artisans from the diverse ethnicities in the kingdom. Azha Keza, a freelance photo- journalist showcases the aesthetics of these various arts and crafts.

wine containers Hand embroidered Kira Pattern

TIES

Azha Keza (Freelance Photojournalist)

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 25 bamboo containers scroll paintings hand bags (thangka)

purses & wallets wooden offering bowl

26 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2013 masks

buddhist painting

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 27 LIVING WITH Living with: Volunteerism

“Service which is rendered without joy nese Foreign minister’s award in apprecia- so many Japanese,” says Tsugawa. helps neither the servant nor the served. tion of his long and continued services in Japanese people are known for their punc- But all other pleasures and possessions countries less prosperous than his own. Mr. tuality, their excellent time-management pale into nothingness before service Tsugawa also spent 5 years as a volunteer in skills and drive for excellence in anything. which is rendered in a spirit of joy.” the African nations of Malawi and Uganda. And therefore it remains an eager question - Mahatma Gandhi Tsugawa who first came to Bhutan in 1983 as to how this man put up almost a decade as a United Nations Volunteer (UNV) in a country where timing and schedules In a country that founded the con- worked for two years from 1983-1985as a are not essentially adhered to, and profes- cept of Gross National Happiness, civil engineer in the Dept. of Industries and sionalism in the work place is not neces- Bhutan has known to be a society mines. After that he spent two and half sarily a strong trait. that believed in and lived by com- years between 1987 and 1989 as a JICA One would think that his tolerance and munal volunteerism. It is not an expert working as a lecturer of civil engi- patience would have exhausted after all alien concept in our villages where neering in the Royal Bhutan Polytechnic these years and he may have actually joined farmers help each other build houses, in Deothang.Three years through the years the pack to suit the Bhutanese majority’s irrigation canals, and even till each 1991 to 1994 he was the Japan Overseas ‘definition’ of punctuality. But he says other’s fields. It is perhaps in giv- Cooperation Volunteers (JOCV) coordinator punctuality is very important for Japanese ing off ourselves for the benefit of the in the JICA Bhutan Office. wherever they may be. They are strict on community, where the concept of the His latest sojourn is in its ninth year since it because for them ‘the promise’ is very “gross national happiness” or “collec- returning in 2004 when he was once again important and so whether he is in Japan or tive happiness” came from. After all designated as the JICA expert in the LGDP- Africa or Bhutan, he never swerved from there is a saying in Buddhism that project supported by JICA. discipline in the work place. to be truly happy we should practice So what drives Tsugawa’s passion for vol- “If I promise I will come at 3 o clock then compassion and giving, something unteerism and the zeal to work away from I must come because once we miss that that was so interwoven into our way his homeland? promise, once we break that promise, of life. This may have changed or He believes that to do good work, people whole trust and reliability is gone and I evolved as society modernized, and can work anywhere in the world and it is lose face. And next time they won’t trust the system or spirit of such volunteer- not necessary to work only in one’s home me, they won’t believe me,” he says. One ism may have indeed broken down as country. What is important for Mr. Tsugawa can only hope that the Bhutanese counter- people moved into the urban areas to though, is that one should stay with ones parts who worked with Tsugawa lived up live more individual focused lives. In family. to their end of such punctuality. recent years, however, we have seen Perhaps that is why he brought his fam- “For Japanese, they are taught since they increasingly how we can organize ily, his wife, two sons and a daughter,to are small kids in schools and at home by ourselves to volunteer and give back Bhutan through the years 1991 till 1994. parents that ‘once we promise we must to community as our people in the He worked as the JOCV coordinator at that keep that promise.’ If we lose it, we lose villages have always done. The ex- time.“Most Japanese don’t want to leave Ja- everything.” amples of doing this have come from pan but some don’t mind working outside In Bhutan he has experienced now and both within and from outside Bhutan. Japan. I’m a little different from other Japa- then that people give a particular time to Tomoaki Tsugawa may not be Bhu- nese; I want to do some challenging work. show up but mostly show up half-an-hour tanese, but he has spent more than I am proud of my home country Japan and later or even a full hour late.“Informing is 20 years of his life as a volunteer of love it as my country. But some Japanese important in this case whether you show which a larger part, 15 years of it has have to work outside Japan for Japan. In up late or don’t show up.” However, most been spent volunteering in Bhutan. my case, work for Bhutan for Japan,” he Bhutanese he observed failed to do that Today, he continues to serve as a vol- says smiling. even. But being the person he is – to have unteer, albeit as an expert, with Japan Having been in Bhutan for a good long pe- lived in Bhutan for 15 years after all, “May- International Cooperation Agency riod he has many friends here, he says if be they are shy, guilty etc. but Bhutanese (JICA) under a home ministry project he were to go to Japan right now he won’t can learn more on that.” titled Local Government and Decen- have as many people he’d know compared On the flipside, maybe Tsugawa learned tralization Project (LGDP). to Bhutan.“Important is… how many people something about the middle path and Recently he was conferred the Japa- I know. If I go to Japan now, I don’t know about letting go from his experiences in

28 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2013 Bhutan. He feels thatJapanese society is and even hydro projects to the remotest with disciplined and hard work with so strict sometimes that there is absolutely pockets.“But young people still want to no international assistance. no leeway. Certain small things, he feels move toward the towns,” he said, which He believes Bhutan can also start could be forgiven. And this is one reason means more had to be done to balance the something of its own and not always why he likes this aspect of the Bhutanese disparity in ways of life. Places likeLhuent- be dependent on help.“Thirty yrs ago environment. There is always room for se, Zhemgang or Trashigang have good when I came here, ‘yes’ Bhutan need- excuses. roads, good water supply, good housing ed help, very few graduates but now “It shouldn’t be too strict. Maybe in be- facilities but for the youth they still prefer there are so many educated gradu- tween Japan and Bhutan there could be a to move to the towns, he said. The reasons ates,” he says. “Even in the villages I middle path which will be the best way,” for that,he thinks, are because opportuni- always tell gups, GAOs, mangmis ‘You he concluded. ties are more readily available in the capital can do it, but you don’t do it’.” Over the years Mr. Tsugawa has learned to pursue higher studies, avail trainings He says a lack of budget is a good a great deal about Bhutanese culture and and skilleddevelopment programs abroad. reason,but he believes that even observed carefully the changes the country It was also the easier and more conveni- without budget you can do so much. has been through. This seasoned volun- ent way of life for young people. He has, Maybe Tsugawa believes in the magic teertakes pride in having witnessed devel- however, also noticed that not all Bhuta- of innovation in a way that the Bhu- opment work in the country’s remotest nese youth desire the same thing. A few, tanese don’t. He agrees it could be pockets of Bhutan. he said, were remaining in their villages the mindset. “This mindset needs to “I have been in Bhutan more than 15 years. and districts and trying to make a life as be changed. Bhutan looks pampered. I know the history of development. I have entrepreneurs, and exploring different and Leader of village, Leader of gewogs, seen how rapidly Bhutan has developed, ideas to make a living. These people have educated need to show the good ex- and the changes in people’s lives,” he says. to be supported, he said. ample by showing humble and good He says one way it’s good Bhutan devel- Tsugawa thinks that one way to resolve this attitude towards work.” oped so fast and so well but on the other imbalance would be to mechanize farming In his opinion human capacity is very hand“there is a gap between the rich and or find new ways to generate income in important to develop rural areas but poor, there is a gap between the town and the rural areas.Basically, to come up with a it has not yet been recognized. He village, there’s a gap between urban and means to attract youth to return to villages, says maybe previously people in a way rural areas. I think you should fill up those or help those who are already living there prioritized road, housing, food in the gaps in the near future otherwise many to stay there.Tsugawa says he is apprecia- particular order but education is very young people will move from rural to ur- tive of government’s recent announcemen- important for country development. ban areas. I think that’s not a very healthy tunder the 11th Five Year Plan to try and He hopes to change that under the tendency for the country.”He added, “It’s send 30,000 grads to work abroad to places project where he currently works. “We not only Bhutan, all the countries in the like Australia, Singapore, Canada, Japan, concentrate on human capacity than world grapple with this issue of trying to Thailand to find jobs. infrastructure. Of course infrastruc- address the rural-urban migration issues.” ture is important, but human capacity It would seem that a developed nation like Lessons building is even more important,” he Japan would be saved this trend of rural-ur- Having lived in both worlds for sufficient said. Tsugawa believes in the human ban migration, but apparently opportunity number of years to observe the ways of life as an agent for change. seekers are the same anywhere; they look and the economic trends he said that Bhu- Sonam Pelvar for the better version of the better version. tanese were too dependent on outside help. Out there it is especially the youth who still “It’s not a good sign and many young grad- move around big cities in search for better uates, almost 95% of them know this fact prospects. but no one decides to do anything about While in Bhutan Tsugawa spent time in it, not even think of doing anything on Bhutan’s remote outskirts and says the that.” Although one can’t compare Bhu- government has worked hard in bridging tan to Japan, he said there were some les- this gap through infrastructure develop- sons that could be learned. Japan started ment. He observed the construction of so all its internationally acclaimed brands many farm roads and bridges, electricity from small and humble beginnings but Tomoaki Tsugawa

The Raven SNOV-DEC ,2013 29 wo poachers were Tcaught above Gasa Dzong in Gasa Dzongkhag (District) on the night of November 2nd, 2013.

kuenselonline BBS.bt JDWNRH receives medi- Fire damages over 1000 acres wo fire engines were cal equipment and supplies of forest in Dungmithang, Tdonated by the Japanese from patron Ashi Kesang Bumthang government to the Govern- Wangmo Wangchuck ment of Bhutan.

wo Indian tourists died Tfrom drowning during their visit to Mebartsho on October 30th. The two tour- ists were unguided.

Twitter Twitter wo-day annual medical conference began on No- Business Bhutan, country’s T Fungus on the inner lid of Bhu- vember 16 at the National In- only financial paper closing tan Agro product? stitute of Traditional Medicine shop Conference Hall, Kawajangsa. This is the third annual con- ference themed ‘Promoting evidence based healthcare.’

Police in Gasa have arrested a 33-year old man for poach- ing musk deer on the night of November 7, and three men are on the run. BBS.bt Twitter Kesang Chuki Dorjee and The Dzongkha Development Lungten Zangmo Wangchuk Commission’s much an- The first flock of three black picked to be part of Asia So- ticipated and awaited, online necked cranes landed in Bum- ciety’s Asia 21 Young Leaders, Dzongkha dictionary is finally deling, Trashiyangtse on the Class of 2013-2014 here night of November 3. They were spotted on November 4 with two adults and one juve- nile crane.

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The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 31 SOLLY BABA

Age? Like? 25, but I still feel 16 Road-trips, trekking, and I like live music.

Where are you from? Dislike? Thimphu Sunday Hangovers

How do you define life? What’s your Quirk? In this time that we’re living in, I think life I don’t know if it’ll pass for a quirk, but my friends tell me that is all about remembering the simple things i have a unique way of expressing myself with my body, makes that bring real joy them laugh.

Define Love? Love is happiness in the manner that you share and receive it.

Your Profession? Freelance videographer/editor

What/Who inspires what you do? I think I’m more inspired with the possibili- ties to tell a story, or get a message across through films/videos...

Your favorite genre of music? Nothing beats Heavy Metal

What do you hope to achieve? I just want to keep making short videos, that is all.

What are your other interests? Photography

Who is your Role Model? My father, because when I look at him, I see a simple and content person, with nothing much to lose, and that’s exactly where I want to be.

One thing you’d like to change about your- self? I can be really lazy, at times.

What are you obsessing on right now? Reading, I guess. I have a whole lot of books to finish… and I’ve been sketching a lot lately!

32 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2013 Artist: Rajesh Gurung Medium: Mixed media Title: Introspection CHILI

Chillies or Chilies, grown almost everywhere and easily cultivated, is scientifically know as Capsicum annum L (mild and

sweet peppers) and Capsicum frutescens L (stronger, hotter and more pungent), get their heat from a chemical called Source http://top10buzz.com/top-10-words-chili-peppers/ Capsaicin. So, the more Capsaicin, the hotter the Chili.

The Chili with the most Capsaicin content, making it the hottest Chili in the world so far, is said to be the Trinidad Scor- pion Butch T, which on a scale of 1-100 is a scorching 100. Second to that is the Naga Ghost Pepper, also known as the Naga Jolkia. Following that, in descending order, are the Habanero, Indian/Thai Pepper, Cayenne, Chipotle, the Jalapeno, Poblano/Anaheim Pepper, Pimiento and finally, the Bell Pepper with the lowest Capsaicin content.

Chiles contain vitamins B1 and B2, beta carotene, protein, calcium, phosphorous and are also a good source of Vitamin C. A chemical called Chilli Oleoresin-1 is also extracted from some chilies and is used as an ingredient in manufacturing prickly heat powders, pain balms and plasters. They are also said to aid blood circulation in the body and treat several, minor stomach ailments.

For Bhutanese though, Chilies are not considered a spice or used specifically for medicinal purposes. Chilies are an inte- gral part of our food. It is our most prized vegetable and is part of, or compliments, nearly every single dish in Bhutanese Cuisine today. Karma Wangchuk

34 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2013 Restaurant An ordinary signboard that reads ‘A La Carte’ hanging from one of the ve- randas above the front entrance of Mojo Park - a live music bar and lounge that I frequent – was something I reluctantly noticed a while ago from seeing people going up and down the side alley. I finally decided to steal a lunch break and go see for myself what the place and food was like.

Upon climbing the narrow stairway up the side of the building, I expect to walk into a small congested area, but I’m taken by complete surprise when I enter a very large open space that could very loosely fit, at least 30-40 people and then some. I notice the décor, which seems to me a work in progress which I later confirm, is indeed so. I am greeted by a very plesant lady who I later find out, is the wife of one of the two partners.

A La Carte is a partnership between two friends, Ugyen Choezang and Dechen Pelden, both very young, and both of whom earlier worked as Sous Chefs at the Aman Resort in Bhutan.

Their menu is varied, but limited to 10 items – a Rice Noodle Soup (with minced beef, spinach, celery, fried garlic and corriander), Thai Style Fried ***** Rice (with chicken, eggs, cabbage and spinach), another popular thai street food called the Pad Thai (soaked dried rice noodles, Prawns, Bean Sprouts, Spring Onions, Coriander, Peanuts & Shallots), a Panini (with Ham, Grilled 1st floor, Yangchenma Building, Chang lam (above Mojo Park) Chilies, Mozzarella & Potato Chips), Hot Dog (Mustard. Buffalo Sauce, Gouda & Fries), Burgers (Chicken/ Beef) served with a side of fries that were certainly better than the Burger itself, a fair attempt at a Spaghetti Bolognese and the wifi AFC (signature fried chicken served with coleslaw), very popular with the regulars. A chocolate or Ice Cream Crepe is also the only sweet treat on the 10am- 10pm menu.

But, the winner for me, was the bhutanese twist on the popular spicy thai salad called the Som Tam, Young Papaya Salad – a combination of the five main flavours of thai local cuisine: sour, salty, hot, pungent fish sauce, and the sweetness of palm sugar. It was bang on! An the extra chili, as requested, only made it better

Prices for all items on the menu range from Nu. 100 - 195.

Kesang P.Dorji

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 35 STAGE

JAWA

Yangdon is in love with Tenzin. But she is faced with the brutal reality of his betrayal, when he does not remorse. presentation of Jawa adjusting to the spirit of the play accept the news of her pregnancy. Aside from the supernatural ele- is also a shift from the local plays or dramas in the In desperation, Yangdon goes to ment of vengeful spirits in the pro- past that never did risk the need to go with character speak with Tenzin’s parents. But duction the rest of the presentation definitions of actors. Therefore actors in those days unfortunately the response she of Jawa dwells on the ‘boy met girl, never budged from the traditional attire for any role. gets from them is no better, and boy gets girl pregnant, boy unwill- The visibly impressed public has not missed this as- instead gets thrown out of their ing to accept girl… and the melo- pect in the theatrical presentation. house abusively. Out of shame, drama that follows.’ Yangdon commits suicide. As Bollywood-ish as it may be, Jawa However it remains in good faith that the makers and is not in essence presented to the creators of this play do not intend to deride everything Yangdon’s mother, Aum Om, viewers with the same agenda. that has been produced in the old days.The makers of encounters Tenzin’s father, Ap That for one is because it is a play Jawa say their chief plan is to revive the art of theatre Dhendup. She reminds him of artistically packaged with the aid of in the country to possibly make it an alternative in the their past, where Ap Dhendup modern technology of lights and avenues of entertainment. Judging by how this play tricked Aum Om andsold her to sounds. It also seems to combine was presented it cannot be argued that introducing a a businessman. Aum Om threat- certain elements that will make it few evolutionary devices in the art does help to drive ens to not cremate her daughter’s appealing for a Bhutanese audi- home the point. dead body or perform any rituals. ence, the rising from the dead, the In revenge of their action towards revenge of the disadvantaged. Producer of the play Ugyen Dorji says the idea for the Yangdon, she promises to ensure The sets for the theatrical play play was developed three years back. It can assum- the rising of her daughter’s spirit designed by experts from Bhutan edly be said here it was a good long, but well-allotted using black magic. and India also seemedto please the time frame for an idea that did go down acceptably- Bhutanese audience who for a long well with its audience. Norling Drayang will take the As a result, Yangdon’s spirit haunts time were treated to background drama to other dzongkhags depending on the audi- Tenzin’s family and in the end kills scenes that were most often than ence it receives. In terms of cost more than Nu 4M Tenzin and his father, Ap Dhen- not attuned with mood, plot or gen- has been invested to bring out the play. It was directed dup. Yangdon forgives Tenzin’s erally changing tone of emotions by Gyem Dorji. mother, Aum Dechen, after she in the plays. Sonam Pelvar begs for forgiveness and shows The change in costumes in the

36 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2013 Judging by its size the “The History of Bhutan” may appear to be a daunting read, but it should be essential and recommended for all Bhutanese. Our school curriculums only scratch the surface of Bhutanese history leaving many of us with a fragmented and incomplete knowledge of our country.

The book could be the most comprehensive work to date and provides detailed informa- tion on the country’s origin, how it got its name, languages, origin of people, and traces the history from its earliest period to date. Because of the information, the details it entails, and the simplicity in language, the Education System should put this book on the curriculum of Bhutanese High Schools or Colleges. In this way, students not only absorb the latest updated, well-researched information on the country’s history and geography, but it also encourages and instills Bhutanese literary pride. But the author feels that Bhutanese students should try and read the works on Bhutan’s history written in Dzongkha and not in English.

“My book was primarily written for a non-Bhutanese audience with some knowledge of Bhutan, that is why the long geographic, linguistic and cultural introduction,” he said. But whoever the audience, it may be time that Bhutanese students learned to absorb studies on Bhutan just the way outsiders or foreigners would. Otherwise it would indeed be a big loss or waste of an academic study of such a proportion. It is also assumed that the Bhutanese would have this knowledge, when we don’t, and so sometimes a foreigner winds up knowing more about our country than we do.

What is great about this work is that it has been undertaken by a Bhutanese and makes us THE History of proud that we have amongst us someone who painstakingly researched and put together Bhutan’ this immense body of work. There is much that has been written about Bhutan, often by foreign authors, but most of their work only outlines Bhutan’s history in sketchy details. Karma Phuntsho’s book, on the other hand, chronologically traces the secular and reli- gious course of the country from its existence to modern times with fascinating detail.

According to Karma Phuntsho, there are many complete works on Bhutan History in Dzongkha, but only partial ones in English. The idea for the book in English came about ***** while he was researching Pema Lingpa, the treasure revealer, and his notes gradually became the skeleton for the book.“There was need also for a more objective history, beside the state-sponsored [one], and all the better if a Bhutanese did it,” he said. “I Dr. Karma Phuntsho happened to be in the best position to combine traditional historical perspectives with modern historiography although I was not really trained as a historian.”

Random House Karma Phuntsho had his early education in Bhutan’s monasteries and mostly in Dzong- kha. He then went on to Oxford and then worked as a research fellow at Cambridge and at CNRS Paris. Apart from being one of the leading scholars in Bhutan, he started the Loden Foundation that supports education and promotes learning and entrepreneurship in Bhutan and the Himalayas.

Sonam Ongmo

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 37 In an attempt to educate and promote awareness on the need for women’s participation in politics and to aspire for leadership roles, Kesang Chuki Dorjee, a documentarian and a mother of two, initiated an educational resource book – Raise Your Hand.

The book, rather official looking in its stance, has been compiled as a resource guide for high school students and teachers. It has a collection of articles outlining and explaining what a Democracy is, the structure of the Bhutanese government, women’s participa- tion in politics in general, and a profiling of all Bhutanese elected women political candidates.

The book is a testament to Kesang Chuki Dorjee’s dedication to promote women’s participation in the social and political sphere and overall women’s issues in general. In 2012, she produced a documentary La, Aum Lyonchen – Yes, Madam Prime Minister, under a project “Bhutan Women Forward” that was supported by the Danish Institute for Parties and Democracy.

“The book is an effort to inspire today’s youth, especially young girls and women, to realize why it is so important to take an interest in how government and politics affect our lives...,” said Kesang. Raise Your Hand

Bhutan’s first Elected Women Leaders Sonam Ongmo

*****

KCD PRODUCTIONS

KCD PRODUCTIONS AND DIPD

38 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2013 DIWA DILEN

WITH THE FINANCE MINISTER

The Bhutanese economy is currently in transition to recover from an array of economic problems and the Finance Minister of Bhutan says with the govern- ment Economic Stimulus Plan (ESP) in motion and other conditions being cre- ated by the government it is on the mend. He talked to The Raven’s Sonam Pelvar about this recently.

In your opinion what is the state of health of the Bhutanese economy? the situation has improved and now plans to increase economic activities, en- Finance Minister - As reported in the there is the excess liquidity in financial hance import substitution and generate Kuensel issue dated 18th November sector, which stood at Nu. 10.6 billion as employment in the economy. It will also 2013,Bhutanese economic growth has of June 2013. It is important to note that improve cottage and small industries, always been guided by the principle the INR shortage and liquidity deficien- which have huge potential to generate of sustainable and equitable develop- cycannot be compared. employment and provide sustainable ment. This economic development economic base for both urban and rural principle has enabled the Govern- Nevertheless, government is cognizant population.As per the implementation ment to create the conditions for of the issues andis trying to institutecor- strategy of the ESP recently approved by broad based development ensuring rective measures to eventually minimize the Government, of Nu. 5 billion- ESP that development benefits the ma- the issues like the rupee problem, liquid- fund, Nu. 2.1 billion will be injected into jority. Recently, there is an economic ity crunch and restrictions. Given the the banks and non-bank financial institu- uneasiness in the world, which started limited options, the restrictions were im- tions to increase liquidity for lending to with the financial crisis in the US in posed only on non-essential imports to the economically productive activities, 2008, sovereign debt crisis in the minimize the pressure on external sector a revolving fund of Nu. 1.9 billion will Euro zone, and excessive volatility of especially the balance of payment deficit be established to support small and cot- Indian Rupee. with India. The administrative measures tage industries and Nu. 1 billion will be would be lifted as sib as fiscal measures used for special support schemes. We Despite slowing growth trend of are introduced. have already received Nu. 1 billion of the global economy, Bhutan has achieved total fund. a growth of 4.6% in 2012 which is How effective will the present govern- ESP has been carefully devised. So, if third highest in the SAARC region. ment’s Economic Stimulus Plan (ESP) everything goes as planned, it will help The global growth for 2012 was only be in resolving the prevailing issues in to spur economic growth and ease the 3.2% with many advanced economies the market economy of the country? rupee situation besides generating em- showing zero growth or contraction. How do you see its performance in the ployment. The IMF Article IV Consultations five years? report 2011 rated Bhutan’s economic The first installment of the Nu.5 billion performance as strong. Finance Minister - The Economic Stimu- GoI grant was received in Rupees so it lus plan will reinvigorate critical actors is believed that it will ease the Rupee Although economy experienced tem- of the economy like the financial (credit) situation in the local economy. What porary liquidity shortage in early 2012, and the private sectors. ESP includes do you see happening after that on the

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 39 government’s part to deal with issues do you think Bhutan rates lower than trying to take services across difficult that crop-up, how will it alter market countries like Nepal, Bangladesh in terrains wasting resources and money. dynamics since the market demand ease of doing business index? What do you think? for Rupee is always big? Finance Minister - Bhutan’s overall Finance Minister - I think one has to Finance Minister -The economy has to economic development is guided by see the situation and take contexts persistently carry on with the meas- the principle of the Gross National into consideration before agreeing or ures to improve rupee earnings. The Happiness where socio-economic de- disagreeing with the suggestion. Rural- ESP is also geared towards this. The velopment has to be sustainable and urban migration is a reality in Bhutan. government also recognizes that rupee equitable. In my opinion, our efforts to But investing only in urban areas to ac- outflow containment through import change and modernize have been cau- commodate migrating population will restrictions are not really sustainable tious and judicious. When we endeavor only exacerbate the problem. solutions in the long run. Although to develop and change, we have to be Nu. 5 billion GoI grant in rupee would careful and ensure that our overarch- Although expensive, efforts to bring provide temporary respite to the ru- ing long-term socio-economic visions balanced development across regions pee issue, unless economy improves are not compromised. From a commer- will control migration into the urban structurally, the respite will be short cial business point of view, this effort areas from the rural areas. Of course, and unsustainable. Given the current of ours could have been ‘notsocondu- the government should consider the economic development stage and cive’ to start a business in the country. cost of taking infrastructure to the ru- its trade relation with India, Bhutan In essence, we cannot compromise ral areas vis-à-vis letting the migration will continue to need huge amounts long-term visions for our short-term happen without control. If the cities of rupee, and it is likely that rupee economic gains. and towns are filled to the capacity, I shortage will persist for some more think it would be wise to control mi- time. The government, on the other Nevertheless, we should recognize our gration by improving socio-economic hand, will have to continue to improve shortfalls and try to develop appropri- conditions in the rural areas. The policy the economy by putting in place both ate legislative and institutional instru- to develop only urban areas and neglect short-term and long-term economic ments to make our country more at- the rural areas would not cost govern- measures. While continuing to in- tractive to business and investments. ment heavily but create disharmony in vest in the hydropower, the country The government is committed to make the society. will also simultaneously harness its Bhutan conducive for business. viable potentials, particularly, the tour- Therefore, one has to see the contexts. ism and agriculture sectors. In time, To develop and promote private sector, The government cannot stop rural-ur- investment made on hydropower will access to information is critical. Recog- ban migration, but the only way to dis- start to pay off and the economy will nizing this, the previous government courage itis to improve socio-economic be in comfortable position because had launched a G2B project, a portal opportunities in the rural areas. the earnings from these hydropower designed for licensing simplification projects will be in rupee. with technical support from IFC. For now, the government is commit- Though the procedural aspect was sim- Sonam Pelvar ted to pursuing appropriate measures plified, the total time required to set up to improve rupee earnings while also a business remained almost the same. fixing the persisting problems and making long-term structural changes A World Bank report (World Develop- in the economy. ment Report)in the past had suggested that rural-urban migration is a reality As far as favorable environments everywhere and for Bhutan too, so in- go, Bhutan always enjoyed the vital stead of trying to stop people from elements of political stability, near- migrating, governments should allow to-perfect environmental conditions it and just proceed to build more infra- and rich natural resources. Why then structures in the urban areas instead of

40 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2013 Beatle Bealey

Beau Peep

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 41 Calvin & Hobbes

Cryptic Crossword

CRYPTIC CROSSWORD KEYS

Across

· 1. Clergyman has clay thrown out? Precisely! (10)

· 7. Sewing implements not quite unnecessary (7)

· 8. Carpenter is to go in without fish (5)

· 10. North-east race, after deductions (4)

· 11. I can roam about for pasta (8)

· 13. A group of directors on a ship (6)

· 15. A game with nets in? (6)

· 17. Meant to be at home, getting looked after (8)

· 18. Help with a Verdi opera (4)

· 21. Never-failing courage (5)

· 22. Make up your mind to do the puzzle again (7)

· 23. Agree to write (10)

Down

· 1. Proficient in a small department (5)

· 2. It’s a little higher than the ankle - or a little lower! (4)

· 3. A little mischief-maker, a scallywag, a rogue (6)

· 4. Green tea brewed for a youngster (8)

· 5. Not lewd, wild or disappointed (3,4)

· 6. Swirling in and out in flood (10)

· 9. Part of the harness said to be put back (10)

· 12. Magnificence makes Edgar run (8)

· 14. Part of Canada - and parts of Iran too! (7)

· 16. Thirteen cards for eleven players in Scotland? (6)

· 19. I had been first but didn’t work (5)

· 20. Norwegian capital in Czechoslovakia (4)

42 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2013 Nu 2B FOR 3 Three men have been detained Nu 24M+ 205 by the Thimphu Police in con- nection with the murder of an Vegetable exports doubled this Indian National on November 7. Nu 2M grants have been endorsed year at Bhutan exporting 1,563 to all 205 Gewogs (cantons) in Metric tonnes of vegetables from Bhutan for the 2013 – 2014 Fiscal January to August this year. The year. exports earned more than Nu 20kg+ or 24M. The goal of the 11th FYP is to halve what comes in and triple Nu 15,750? what goes out. Druk air for the first time adver- 20% tised an airfare of Nu 15,750, exclu- sive of taxes, for a single round trip 32 - 15 Legislation has been drafted with to Bangkok, one of its lowest ever 20% quota for reservation of seat air fares for the Paro-Bangkok sec- First by-election to the National for women in the Parliament. tor, this winter. The discount have Assembly in the country saw come about in respect to the other Dechen Zangmo, a young busi- competitors offer of 20 Kg of ex- nesswoman as the winner from tra free excess baggage allowance Nanong-Shumar constituency and a round trip to Bangkok at Nu representing DPT. Pema Wang- 2 15,999. chuk was the contending can- didate representing PDP. The Indian Tourist died from drown- seat from Nanong-Shumar con- ing during their visit to Mebartsho AND stituency remains unchanged on October 30th. The two tourists 1 3 because DPT’s Dechen Zangmo were unguided. retains the seat. Police in Gasa have arrested a 33- year old man for poaching musk deer on the night of November 7, 95% and three men are on the run.

26 or 74? Target to electrify 43,951 house- holds by the end of the 10th FYP, 7 serious men Government says 74% of the 100 according to the Department of day pledges fulfilled. The Opposi- Renewable Energy officials will be A Pay Commission comprising of tion claims that it is only 26% ful- met. The latest figure shows 41,753 7 members has been established. filled and not 74% fulfilled. households electrified as of now. This is one of the 100day pledges of PDP. The Pay Commission will look into the revision of pay scale and salary.

The Raven NOV-DEC 2013 43 So it seems the Economic Stimulus Plan (ESP) is the touted savior for the Bhutanese economy currently wrangling with the remains of the Rupee problem, liquidity crunch and restrictions in operation brought about by the said problems.

Well it is true, to certain extent that is, if the musings of some thinkers, planners and policy makers are to be taken into account. From what has been said it will come to pass that the generous ESP money of Nu 5bn will solve the liquidity crunch but it will not address the Rupee problem in its entirety. This is being said because the first installment of the GoI grant money for the ESP was received in Rupees hence it is supposed to ease the problem to a degree. This particular statement receives credibility because when banks start giving loans; it will result in additional pressure on the demand for Rupee, hence exacerbating the Rupee problem while only temporarily solving the liquidity crunch.

The embattled market which already has a huge demand for the Indian currency will spin into motion a buying spree of machinery, automobiles and construction materials etc. furthering demand on the Rupee. The two market activities of housing and import of cars are highlighted in this as market activities that will drain the economy yet again of available Rupee currency. The many constructions of houses will involve import of construction materials, buying of machinery etc. which involves great expenditure of Rupees. While the importing of cars would involve huge loans being taken by buyers which directly translate into Rupee outflows.

And while on the topic people are not oblivious of the green tax which has been put in place, dubiously hinting that consumers can start consuming if they are able to shell out the taxes existent ban on import of cars while. However the import ban on vehicles remains in place negating the purpose of green tax. It was understood that the tax was supposed to act as a deterrent to reduce consumption but imports would be al- lowed. Car imports are still banned, therefore the green tax has no relevance. At this point it is established that the stimulus plan will ease prevailing situations in the economy serving a short-term relief but supplementing and more effective measure are being prescribed to haul in the actions that will ensure a more permanent state of calm.

Savings, figure big and bold among the suggested measures to follow a path that lays emphasis on import substi- tution and export-oriented activities. It is also been said that restrictions currently in place are good as temporary measures to limit consumption but would prove costly if pursued for a longer period. However, decision makers at executive levels say government would certainly lift the restrictions but would choose to do it wisely in a phased manner since the immediate lifting of restrictions is not advisable in prevailing unstable market conditions.

The government would eventually aim to promote investments but in areas that generate good returns, reduce consumption and promote savings. Experts also suggest that there should be reform on the restrictions because people will after a period of time try and find ways and means to surpass such restrictions leading to more and more illegal activities. In such cases the revenue generated will not reach the government as a result of manipulations, tax-evasion, etc. Sonam Pelvar

44 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2013