2020 Annual Report Global Mountain Network

2020 ANNUAL REPORT GLOBAL MOUNTAIN NETWORK

Cover image: Credit: Pat Morrow. Courtesy of Alpine Club of Canada The DIGITAL VERSION of this Annual Report is available at: TABLE OF CONTENTS

About the UIAA 4 Mountain Protection 39

Safety 44 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 6 Medical 48 President’s Report 6 Mountaineering 52 UIAA Executive Board and Management Committee 8 Ice Climbing 56 UIAA Executive Review of 2020 10 Anti-Doping 62 UIAA in the time of Covid-19 13 Youth 64 2020 General Assembly Review 15 International Skyrunning Federation 66 UIAA Strategy 18 UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award 68 MEMBERSHIP, FINANCE & UIAA OFFICE 20 GLOBAL STATE OF THE MOUNTAINS 69 UIAA Office 21

Finance 24 Africa 70

UIAA Office Report 29 Asia 70

Communication 32 Central and South America 72

UIAA Court 34 Europe 74

Legal Experts Working Group 35 North America 77

Sponsors & Partners 36 Oceania 78

COMMISSIONS & SPECIAL REPORTS 38 COMPLETE LIST OF UIAA DECLARATIONS 80

3 About the UIAA THE GLOBAL MOUNTAIN NETWORK

The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) was founded in 1932 and has a global presence on six continents representing 90 member associations and federations in 67 countries.

The UIAA, supported by over 150 volunteers, promotes the growth and pro-

tection of mountaineering and climbing worldwide by:

• preserving their spirit and traditions

• advancing safe and ethical mountain practices

• promoting responsible access, culture and environmental protection

• supporting youth participation and the Olympic movement

The UIAA fulfils its Mission Statement mainly through the work ofits

Commissions, which make recommendations, set policy and advocate on be-

half of the international mountaineering community. UIAA Commissions are

comprised of experts in their field.

The UIAA operates through the following Commissions: Anti-Doping, Ice

Climbing, Medical, Mountaineering (including Access & Training), Mountain

Protection, Safety and Youth.

Further Reading: theuiaa.org/about

©Shutterstock Library Introduction

HONORARY MEMBERS

1964 Charles-Egmond d’ARCIS (SAC) 1968 Edouard WYSS-DUNANT (SAC) 1969 Hans von BOMHARD (DAV) 1975 Ugo di VALLEPIANA (CAI) 1980 Guido TONELLA (CAI) 1983 Franz HIESS (VAVOE) 1987 Fritz WIESSNER (AAC) 1990 Jaromir WOLF (CHS) 1992 Sir Edmund HILLARY (NZAC) 1995 Walter BONATTI (CAI) Dr. Pietro SEGANTINI (SAC) 2000 Robbert LEOPOLD (NKBV) 2001 Dr. Carlo SGANZINI (SAC) 2002 Georges MOISSIDIS (EOOA) William Lowell PUTNAM (AAC) PLEDGE 2003 Dr. Fritz MÄRZ (DAV) The UIAA is the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation. As the leading global network, we pro- 2003 Nassos TZARTZANOS (EOOA) mote climbing and mountaineering and advocate for access to climbing areas and mountain ranges. While look- 2007 Jordi PONS SANJINES (FEDME) ing to our future, we value our heritage and care for the mountains, their fragile ecosystems, vulnerable communities and cultures. We serve the best interests of our member federations and of our worldwide community. 2008 Pit SCHUBERT (DAV) For the climbers. For the mountains. For the world. 2010 Kazuo SAITO (JMA) 2012 Ang Tshering SHERPA (NMA) 2013 Claude ECKHARDT (FFCAM)

theuiaa.org/members 2014 Tamotsu NAKAMURA (JAC)

This Annual Report is best viewed in digital format. To view 2016 Reinhold MESSNER (AVS) or download the document please scan the QR code. 2019 Injeong LEE (KAF) 2020 Doug SCOTT (BMC)

5 ©iStock EXECUTIVE SUMMARY WELCOME President’s Report so wedo. reply from herbelayerof “climb on”. And leader tiesin,endswiththe optimistic our mostbasic safety protocol, asthe climbers are anoptimistic bunch.Even the problems continueinto2021.But 2020? It wastoughandunfortunately what canyou say aboutayearlike are tobeabouttheyear But past. Presidents’ messagesfor AnnualReports Executive Summary

Thank you for the opportunity to serve as your provide a solid base, but there are some areas • A governance working group to make UIAA President. where clear interpretation of the Articles’ organ- organisation clear and responsible, to ena- isational structure and assigned responsibilities ble our willing volunteers to make a full and As a new President starts another retires after would help the UIAA in meeting members’ needs meaningful contribution with the time and dedicating eight years to the UIAA. We owe great and expectations. effort they so graciously offer us. thanks to Frits as he took over in a time of contro- • An internal relations working group to focus versy. He led with enthusiasm and a ready smile. As I said in my election speech, I don’t think the on the members and their needs and issues. Frits dedicated good portions of his free time to UIAA needs a lot of change, it just needs some Welcome Message by UIAA business which means something when clarification. So I dedicate myself to providing de- • An external relations working group to you consider his young family, his very busy work fined and allocated responsibilities to best equip improve existing relationships and to create Peter Muir schedule, and the days he missed in the hills. On the UIAA to meet its mission and vision and stra- meaningful links to potential partners or UIAA President your behalf I express my great thanks to Frits and tegic plan. allies. wish him, Rose and their family the very best. • A Commission working group to recom- The central core of UIAA’s existence, the reason UIAA Presidents mend how best to help our Commissions’ I will not belabour Covid; it has been enough of a that our federations come together in interna- 1932–1964 Count Charles projects advance our strategic plan. test on all of us. I marvel every day at the remark- tional union, is mountaineering and climbing in Egmond d’Arcis • And a finance and audit working group to able resilience of all our members in dealing with all their forms. The UIAA’s primary role is to sup- 1965–1968 Edouard Wyss-Dunant make sure that we are responsibly managing the challenge so well. port our member federations so that they may 1968–1972 Albert Eggler and allocating our financial resources. better support their members’ enjoyment of their I thought long about what to say to you in this 1973–1976 Jean Juge mountain activities safely and with respect for the There is work to do over the next four years. I’m Annual Report because in 2020 many UIAA activ- 1976–1984 Pierre Bossus places and people they encounter. And if that is looking forward to it. I hope you will join me in ities were challenged. 1985–1989 Carlo Sganzini true, then environmental and cultural responsibil- these tasks in whatever way your time allows. 1990–1995 Pietro Segantini But from challenge comes opportunity, and may- ity, safety (equipment, training and medical ad- And always, we will have some fun along the way. be it is best that I turn my attention to the future vice) and access must be the foundation of UIAA 1995–2004 Ian McNaught-Davis and where I hope to lead the UIAA over the next projects to provide direct resources to the needs Mind yourself out there, 2004–2005 Alan Blackshaw four years. You can use our progress on these ide- of our members. 2005-2006 Pierre Humblet (acting) as as a measure of our success. 2007–2011 Mike Mortimer For the foregoing reasons, the Executive Board The UIAA is a strong organisation based on has organised working groups to focus on these 2011-2012 Jordi Colomer (acting) sound principles and our common passion for areas for recommendations to the Management 2012–2019 Frits Vrijlandt all things “climbing”. The Articles of Association Committee, and from it to the General Assembly. 2019- Peter Muir

7 UIAA Executive Board and Management Committee As confirmed by the UIAA General Assembly (October, 2020)

EXECUTIVE BOARD

Peter MUIR Zoljargal BANZRAGCH Lode BECKERS Amit CHOWDHURY Mahmood HASHEMI (President) (Vice President) (General Secretary) India Iran Canada Mongolia Belgium Indian Mountaineering Iran Mountaineering and Alpine Club of Canada Mongolian National Climbing & Mountaineering Foundation Sport Climbing Federation Climbing Federation Belgium

Martín Lascano González Central & South America Representative UIAA – Managment Committee MANAGEMENT Re: UIAA Management Committee Re-nomination COMMITTEE Dear collegues, LARGEST FEDERATION The growth of the practice of mountaineering and its REPRESENTATIVES universality is not a coincidence. The advancement of technology, the media and social networks show us that today there are no limits, mountains and their natural environment are increasingly within reach. In this constant change, the UIAA must continue to be the engine to strengthen sports growth, without neglecting the natural environment and respecting the values that mountaineering has taught us: Mountaineering ethics, camaraderie, the importance of style Françoise JAQUETand respect, above success or the summit itself. Martin LASCANO Jean MICZKA Josef KLENNER (Treasurer)These values are what have shaped me as a mountaineer. My passion and commitment to the mountains is over 30 years old. Starting with climbing on all types ofArgentina terrain, on national France Germany expeditions and as a mountaineering professor, to continue for the last 20 years as a sports Switzerlandmanager. Within the mountain club that taught me to climb, in the Argentine Federation and the UIAA itself, in the Safety Commission and theFederación Management Committee. Argentina Where I de Fédération française des clubs German Alpine Club contributed this passion and commitment; and over the years, the experience gained. Swiss Alpine CentralClub and South America is one of the great pending challengesSki for y UIAA, Andinismo which I have alpins et de montagne assumed four years ago, achieving effective and permanent communication with UIAA member countries and those that are not. My new challenge is that the countries, from this part of the world, that are not members come to UIAA and want to be part of our great mountain family. It would be an honor to be able to continue the work already started. Sincerely,

Martín Lascano González Bariloche – Argentina

Executive Summary

MANAGEMENT COMMITTEE

CONTINENTAL REPRESENTATIVES

Martín Lascano González Central & South America Representative UIAA – Managment Committee

Re: UIAA Management Committee Re-nomination

Dear collegues,

The growth of the practice of mountaineering and its universality is not a coincidence. The advancement of technology, the media and social networks show us that today there are no limits, mountains and their natural environment are increasingly within reach.

In this constant change, the UIAA must continue to be the engine to strengthen sports I have been President of the MCSA for the last four years and have been on the Managementgrowth, without neglecting the natural environment and respecting the values that mountaineering has taught us: Mountaineering ethics, camaraderie, the importance of style Committee of the UIAA as the Africa Continental Representative for that same time. I have taken an Africa: Greg MOSELEY Asia: andChristine respect, above success PAE or the summit itself. Central and Europe: Anne ARRAN Oceania: Stuart GRAY North America: Phil POWERS active part in the MC meetings and have assisted in the “High Mountain” initiative aimed at dealing with mountain issues as the emerge. I feel that I have unfinished business that I am veryThese kee valuesn to are what have shaped me as a mountaineer. My passionSouth and commitment America: to complete. I have built up Republica good network of ofSouth friends Africaand like-minded colleagues both withinthe Koreamountains and is over 30 years old. Starting with climbing on all types of terrain, on national United Kingdom New Zealand United States outside the formal UIAA structures. I am still active in the mountains! expeditions and as a mountaineering professor, to continue for the last 20 years as a sports manager. Within the mountain club that taught me to climb, in the Argentine Federation teve ong Mountain Club of South Africa Korean Alpineand the UIAA Federation itself, in the Safety Commission and the MartinManagement LascanoCommittee. Where (see I EB) British Mountaineering CouncilS L New Zealand Alpine Club American Alpine Club contributed this passion and commitment; and over the years, the experienceMountaineering gained. Instructor and International Mountain Guide Central and South America is one of the great pending challenges for UIAA, which I have assumed four years ago, achieving effective and permanent communication with UIAA Tan yr Onnen, member countries and those that are not. My new challenge is that the countries, from this Brynrefail, part of the world, that are not members come to UIAA and want to be part of our great mountain family.Phone: It would be an01286 honor to be871140 able to continue the work already started. Caernarfon, MANAGEMENT COMMITTEE Sincerely, Gwynedd. e-mail: [email protected] REPRESENTATIVE MEMBERS LL 55 3PE

17 August, 2020

UIAA OfficeMartín Lascano González MonbijoustrasseBariloche 61 – ArgentinaPostfach Bern 23 Switzerland CH-3000 Switzerland

Dear Colleagues:

I wish to apply for a place on the UIAA Management Committee.

I have been the chair (now president) of the Training Panel for 14 years (since 2006) and have taken a strong role in Simon ALDEN Joachim DRIESSENdeveloping the aims and objectivesKul Bahadur of this very GURUNG active group. We have found thatSteve training hasLONG become an increasingly Stein TRONSTAD important factor in the motivation for joining the UIAA expressed by new members. In intend to continue leading this Malta Netherlandsgroup for a few more years, and also toNepal continue working on training projects whenUnited international Kingdom travel becomes viable Norway again. Malta Climbing Club Royal Dutch Mountaineering Nepal Mountaineering British Mountaineering The Norwegian I would like to take a more active role in the management of the UIAA goals and delivery. I believe that as an active and Climbingclimber Club and mountaineer I have a goodAssociation understanding and connection with “grassroots”Council participants and their needs. Climbing Federation I also believe that the UIAA needs to develop more tangible services that climbers and mountaineers will value, and thereby empower both the member organisations and the UIAA itself. The UIAA can collect information from its member organisations and use this data to filter and analyse information that is otherwise virtually impossible to collect. It can also increase its visibility to grassroot members and reassert its position as the foremost world authority on mountaineering values, protection of the mountain environment and development of sport by working in close harmony with partner organisations in both the voluntary and professional sectors. 9

Yours Sincerely,

Steve Long Mountaineering Instructor and British Mountain Guide

title, the youngest athlete to ever achieve that UIAA Executive feat. Anton Nemov won the men’s speed crown Review of 2020 while Maria Tolokonina, also of Russia, triumphed in both women’s lead and speed.

The UIAA pays tribute to Lloyd Gallagher, a legend UIAA. A YEAR of both the New Zealand Alpine Club and Alpine Club of Canada and extends its sympathy to all IN REVIEW those affected by the devastating bushfires which enveloped many areas of Australia.

JANUARY FEBRUARY Following headlines about the climbing and trek- In preparation for the 2020 UIAA General king industry in Nepal, the UIAA supports the Assembly, the federation publishes its restat- Alpine Club, the British Mountaineering Council ed priorities to support discussions for its new (BMC) and the mountain guides body the IFMGA, Strategic Plan. The UIAA and the UN Environment in publishing a statement to highlight some of the Programme (UNEP) sign an MoU. The MoU repre- issues facing the Nepali government and how in- sents a huge step forward for the UIAA in its ef- ternational organisations might help in its efforts forts to extend and expand its reach across the to drive out bad practice and secure the future of globe on the issue of mountain protection, ena- mountain tourism in Nepal. bling it to be at the forefront of tackling important issues such as waste management, environmental education and addressing concerns on climate change. SafeCom publishes revisions to one of its core standards, 101 Dynamic Ropes.

MARCH The first, and ultimately only, UIAA Global Youth Series event of 2020 is held. Supporting the next generation is also at the fore in ice climbing with the hosting of the annual World Youth Championships. Meanwhile, the UIAA Youth Commission begins to define its future objectives. The UIAA publishes details on how to ac- Australian bushfires ©Stock Library cess assets related to Alpinism becoming recognised by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. SafeCom shares an alert related to In the arc of three weekends, the UIAA Ice canyoning harnesses. The UIAA publishes its first Climbing World Tour concludes with top-class statement on Covid-19, a topic which would dom- World Cup action in China, Korea and Switzerland. inate much of the year (please refer to the ded- Louna Ladevant of France claims the men’s lead icated Covid-19 chapter). As a consequence of

Yangmaiyong NW Face, ©Tom Nakamura Executive Summary

Covid-19, the UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award JUNE Foundation announce details on new translations Award, shares details on the partnership be- and later the Mountain Protection Award are put of the UIAA Alpine Summer Skills Handbook – tween its Peak Outlook Foundation with National Following May’s MC, a number of UIAA back until 2021. Czech and Japanese. The Petzl Foundation also Geographic on a dedicated campaign to raise Commissions meet to discuss adapting plans in supports a fascinating study into how rockfalls greater awareness on the issues plaguing the the face of Covid-19. The Mountain Protection APRIL occur in the Goûter couloir, on the normal route world’s mountain environments, including Commission agrees to focus on developing its up Mont Blanc. In a story of solidarity, the UIAA Mount Everest. The latest articles from the MPA The UIAA creates both an online Covid-19 portal global partnerships and guidelines, the Access WG reports on a heart-warming collaboration, relat- past winner series and SafeCom’s Q&As focus and a dedicated Taskforce to support its members invites UIAA members to contact them should ed to the delivery of PPE equipment for medical on Mountain Wilderness of France and rope testing and wider climbing community with informa- they require international support for any on- staff, between one of its accredited safety labora- going or new issues and SafeCom reports on the tion. Between April and June nearly 80 updates tories in China and the Mountain Club of South impressive progress made in research and de- are posted from more than 40 UIAA members. Africa. The American Alpine Club pays tribute to One of the first UIAA Commissions to adapt to velopment by numerous Working Groups. The outgoing CEO Phil Powers (in October Powers is Covid-19 Taskforce the ‘new normal’ is the Training Panel who dur- produces a summary on where elected to the UIAA Management Committee). ing the global lockdown works on developing it is currently possible to climb and under what and updating its training literature. Published by conditions. AUGUST High Altitude Medicine & Biology, members of JULY Extending its commitment to providing climbers the UIAA Medical Commission write an opinion with essential safety resources, SafeCom begins position titled ‘Preacclimatisation for expeditions to The UIAA, through its High Mountains Working a regular Q&A series answering common ques- extreme altitude’. Group, publishes a statement on the conserva- tions submitted by climbers. The first in this new transnational mountain areas tion of . A new UIAA series tackles the subject of suncream and climb- MAY series focuses on the backgrounds of some of ing gear. In its latest statement, the UIAA Covid-19 the hundreds of volunteers who dedicate pre- Taskforce ©Mountain Wilderness France For the first time in the UIAA’s near 90-year his- calls for caution and for climbers and cious time and considerable expertise to the mountaineers to ensure their activities do not tory, its Management Committee meeting is federation each year. Klara Dvorakova, head of have an impact in spreading the virus or stretch- held online. Following approval at the meeting, respectively. The UIAA Access WG reflect on ing already overburdened medical resources. Covid-19 lockdown measures in countries represent- the UIAA publishes its 2019 Annual Report (in July As part of the UIAA’s commitment to the annual ed by its delegates and the impact restrictions print copies are sent to all member associations). Mountain Protection Award, its Assessment Team have had on climbing. During the MC, the decision is taken to also host offer support to nominated projects throughout October’s UIAA General Assembly online. All their lifespan. In a new series, the UIAA profiles the OCTOBER organs of the UIAA embrace online platforms progress made by recent recipients of the MPA, For the first time in its history, the UIAA hosts its as a means not only of holding meetings but of AlpineLearning commencing with 2019 winner General Assembly online. Peter Muir is elected convening more regularly. The UIAA develops its Project Weeks by the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) . as the federation’s 14th President. A full review partnership with Vertical-Life to improve its results can be found in the dedicated chapter of this re- and scoring systems for competitions. The CCC SEPTEMBER port. Ahead of the GA, the UIAA publishes a dedi- first easing of Covid-19 Taskforce reflects on the With October’s General Assembly imminent, the cated supporting guide, which serves as an update measures in some countries. During lockdown and UIAA Management Committee and Commission on activities since the release of its 2019 Annual with more and more people buying climbing ©UIAA/Klara Dvorakova Presidents hold their second online meeting of 2020. Report. The groundbreaking Mount Everest gear online, SafeCom launches a misuse page to Commissions report extensively on recent pro- Biogas Project (MEBP) past winner of the MPA, track and report inappropriate use of the UIAA the UIAA’s Legal Experts Working Group, is the gress despite the difficulties caused by Covid-19. reports on the negative impact Covid-19 has had Safety Label logo. subject of the first profile. The UIAA and The Petzl Bally, sponsor of the UIAA Mountain Protection on its plans and funding.

11 NOVEMBER The UIAA Ice Climbing Commission adapts its calendar for the upcoming season owing to the continued impact of Covid-19 especially on travel. Special protocols and guidelines are also in- troduced for all events. MedCom contributes to one of the first papers dedicated to examining the specific risks of outdoor sports and Covid-19. During its final online meeting of the year, SafeCom pre- pares for the long-awaited release of its Anchor

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© Tomas Prosek UIAA Corrosion Standard and nominates Lionel Kiener NEWSLETTER! as its new President. The CCC Taskforce discusses vaccine testing and second waves. The newly-elected UIAA Executive Board reports on a positive first meeting. SIGN UP DECEMBER International Mountain Day headlines December with the UIAA a keen participant in global con- ferences and through its series assessing the importance of biodiversity to mountain regions. UIAA honorary member and mountaineering great Article by Doug Scott passes away aged 79. The UIAA publishes its annual Carbon Footprint Report. Standard 123, Rock Anchors is published after 12 years of hard Peter Bourne work and investment. UIAA Communication Manager Executive Summary

all Commission Presidents. During the virtu- UIAA in the time of al MC meetings, it was decided that the 2020 Covid-19 UIAA General Assembly would be held online. A first for the federation in its near 90-year histo- The Covid-19 pandemic has had a ry. Further details can be found in the dedicated profound impact on everybody’s lives. section. For international organisations like In an effort to ensure the UIAA remained efficient the UIAA significant changes to the and met its targets, the UIAA EB held frequent way the federation has communicated virtual meetings. Indeed, the EB, MC and all UIAA and operated have been implemented Commissions all used online technology to meet more regularly during the pandemic. This sig- in the context of an ever-evolving nifies a positive step for the years to come with situation. the UIAA reducing both its carbon footprint and creating a routine where shorter, online meetings The UIAA’s response to Covid-19 was proactive leading to fruitful and productive collaboration. and has taken on many different aspects. Below is a breakdown of some of the key effects: COVID-19 PORTAL

OFFICE One of the UIAA’s first tasks was to direct all Covid-19 related updates to a dedicated website From mid-March, staff at the UIAA Office in Bern, portal. Like similar bodies, whether in the sports Switzerland worked remotely, returning only later world or NGOs, the UIAA’s initial focus was on in the year when conditions allowed and subject the impact of Covid-19 on its operations, projects to restrictions such as the number of people who and on its membership. could be in the office at any one time. The UIAA The portal has proved to be one of the most suc- is accustomed to agile working so there was no cessful initiatives launched by the UIAA in recent great change in terms of the working environ- times, bringing significant traffic to the federa- ment. The Office held weekly catch-up meetings tion’s website and acting as a precious guide and with all members of the team to ensure regular reference point through these troubled times. communication and the delivery of key projects. During the early months of the pandemic, the focus of the portal was on supplying updates from MANAGEMENT COMMITTEE & individual UIAA members. Covid-19 has impact- EXECUTIVE BOARD ed different parts of the world at different times. Learnings from initial outbreaks in Asia and then The UIAA Management Committee was due to in Europe proved crucial for countries yet to be host its in-person meeting in North Macedonia impacted. in May. This was cancelled and replaced, for the first time, by an online meeting. The format By the end of 2020, the UIAA has published over proved successful with more delegates attend- 80 articles from members in over 40 countries. ing than otherwise would have made the in-per- Over half its membership has contributed to the son meeting, particularly those from outside of platform. There has never been such a significant, Europe. There was also a follow up Management coordinated campaign of this nature. Members Committee meeting and an online meeting of were able to use the platform to share learning,

general rules and regulations and approaches to swift answers and leadership, mainly by promptly The impact on UIAA projects such as the UIAA Ice dealing with topics such as huts, climbing gyms, referring the question for consultation to a gov- Climbing World Tour, with competitions on three access and implementing social distancing. ernment authority, to a crisis management body, continents and athletes from nearly 30 countries, to a competent national federation or to a rele- As the pandemic evolved, the UIAA focused the Mountain Protection Award and Commission vant UIAA commission. more on common themes and answering more projects which require physical meetings and global questions. Dedicated articles were pro- By the end of the year, the CCC Taskforce had workshops are key challenges for the year ahead. Report by duced regarding the opening of huts in Europe, held five online meetings. With the support The UIAA welcomed initiatives such as the one worldwide travel restrictions and where people of experts from different UIAA areas (EB, MC, Lode Beckers could climb. There was also specific information Commissions and well as medical professionals), recently put in place by the Mountain Club of on climbing during Covid-19, regulations to this group has been able to provide guidance on South Africa (MCSA) to run online seminars and UIAA General Secretary, follow particularly in relation to equipment and a number of subjects as the nature of the pan- workshops, through the UIAA, to foster a great- UIAA Covid-19 CCC Taskforce climbing with other people. demic evolved. Each meeting addressed the situ- er sense of community. Early in 2021, the UIAA ation across a number of different countries with 2021 launched its own Mountain Network Series Peter Bourne The portal also acted as a forum to share core reports and findings shared on the UIAA portal. information from wider climbing media – includ- of webinars. UIAA Communication Manager, UIAA Covid-19 CCC Taskforce ing mental and physical health articles and gen- Initiatives that came out of the meetings include The UIAA understands that the current pandem- eral opinion pieces on the economic impact of dedicated UIAA position statements on responsi- ic will have a significant impact on its members Covid-19 on the climbing world. ble climbing, an online form for UIAA members whether in retaining and attracting their own to address concerns and share news as well as Other CCC Taskforce Members members, on sport competitions, safety and CCC TASKFORCE articles on core subjects of interest – access to training programmes, sustainability initiatives, Buddha Basnyat (UIAA MedCom) At their 7 April e-meeting, members of the UIAA huts, general rules for returning to sport and the sponsorship and donations, huts and tourism. Executive Board unanimously decided to create a mountains. Amit Chowdhury (UIAA Executive Board) Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC) Taskforce. Its During this uncertain time, the UIAA will continue FUTURE Nils Glatthard (UIAA Office) mission was to provide fast responses to queries to provide close support and relevant informa- and Covid-19-related issues which may arise in Mass in-person international meetings are unlikely Mahmood Hashemi tion to its membership. the coming months. The CCC enabled the UIAA to take place in the near future. As a global organ- (UIAA Executive Board) to have a dedicated structure in place. When ap- isation, the UIAA anticipates conducting its affairs For everything related to the UIAA and Covid-19 Urs Hefti (UIAA MedCom) proached, the UIAA would be able to provide online for the foreseeable future. here please click . Carol Kahoun (UIAA Office) Françoise Jaquet (UIAA Executive Board) Further Reading Josef Klenner (UIAA Management Committee) Martin Lascano UIAA MedCom contributes to paper UIAA family supports delivery of (UIAA Executive Board) on Outdoor sports and Covid-19 PPE to South Africa Greg Moseley (UIAA Management Committee) Executive Summary

2020 General Assembly Muir succeeds Frits Vrijlandt, from the Royal Dutch Climbing and Mountaineering Club Review (NKBV), Netherlands. Vrijlandt’s second and, as defined in the UIAA Articles of Association, fi- The 2020 UIAA General Assembly nal four-year term came to an end at this year’s (GA) was held on 23-24 October. General Assembly.

Owing to the Covid-19 pandemic, PETER MUIR, UIAA PRESIDENT the annual meeting took place online In his brief opening address, Muir said: “Thank for the first time in the federation’s you all for the faith you have expressed in me. I will 88-year history. A record number of work hard to meet a challenge that I take on with great delegates – 130 representatives from enthusiasm. My message to all candidates and volunteers is that offering your time is appreciated and the 68 countries – joined on Zoom and most valuable thing you can give. Thank you to Frits a further 250 member federation for all of your contributions and dedication as UIAA representatives and partners followed President.” Muir also paid tribute to the campaigns an accompanying livestream on of Amit Chowdhury, now an EB member, and YouTube. Peter Farkas, UIAA Mountaineering Commission President, who both ran for Presidency.

Frits Vrijlandt on his final GA as UIAA President: “It is time for me to reflect on the past eight years. I am proud of all the work we have undertaken together and extremely proud to have been part of the UIAA family. There have been many highlights including welcoming new and returning members, witnessing the work of our Commissions and Continental bodies. Other achievements include the launch of the Mountain Protection Award, the Rock Climbing Festival Award, the Respect the Mountains Movement, GA Participants the growth of competition ice climbing and the tremendous support we have received from sponsors and partners such as The North Face PRESIDENTIAL ELECTION Korea, Outdoor Research, The Petzl Foundation Peter Muir from the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) and Bally. There have been some regrets as well was elected as the new President of the UIAA. Muir such as the departure of CAI and for not succeed- becomes the UIAA’s 14th President (including two ing yet in ice climbing becoming part of the offi- Acting Presidents) and the second from Canada. cial Olympic competition programme.”

© Remy Duding 15 EXECUTIVE BOARD • Phil Powers, United States, American Alpine expertise of its new EB and MC members – the Club, Continental Representation: North diversity of personnel offers the UIAA greater uni- Muir will lead an Executive Board comprised of: America versality, better representation and increased re- • Zoljargal Banzragch, Vice President, • Stein Tronstad, Norway, The Norwegian sources when facing the many and varied aspects Mongolia (elected in 2019), Mongolian Climbing Federation, General of the federation. National Climbing Federation Representation EB and MC members now represent 18 coun- • Lode Beckers, General Secretary, They join the existing MC members: tries from all continents reinforcing the UIAA’s Belgium (elected in 2019), Climbing & role as The Global Mountain Network. Mountaineering Belgium • Simon Alden, Malta, Malta Climbing Club, General Representation • Amit Chowdhury, India (elected in 2020), Indian Mountaineering Foundation • Joachim Driessen, Netherlands, Royal Dutch MEMBER ASSOCIATION ELECTIONS Climbing and Mountaineering Club, General • Mahmood Hashemi, Iran (elected in 2019), The UIAA General Assembly elected four Doug Scott Representation I.R. Iran Mountaineering & Sport Climbing new member associations during the General HONORARY MEMBERSHIP Federation • Stuart Gray, New Zealand, New Zealand Assembly. They are: Alpine Club, Continental Representation: • Françoise Jaquet, Treasurer, Switzerland Following a nomination put forward by the British (elected in 2020), Swiss Alpine Club Oceania Full Members Mountaineering Council (BMC) and present- • Josef , Germany, German Alpine ed by their President Lynn Robinson, legendary • Martin Lascano, Argentina (elected in 2020), Klenner • Mexico: Federación Mexicana de Deportes mountaineer Doug Scott, a former member of Federaciòn Argentina de Ski y Andinismo Club, Largest Federation Representation de Montaña y Escalada A.C Korean Alpine the UIAA Management Committee (2008-2012) • Christine Pae, Korea, • Saudi Arabia: Saudi Climbing & Hiking and various UIAA Commissions (Mountaineering MANAGEMENT COMMITTEE Federation, Continental Representation: Asia Federation Commission 2011-2020 and the Traditional The following nominees were elected to the The UIAA thanks Frits Vrijlandt and outgoing Values Working Group) was awarded Honorary UIAA Management Committee by the General Associate Member Executive Board members Helène Denis (FFCAM, Membership of the UIAA. Assembly: France) and Yongfeng Wang (CMA, China) as well • Azerbaijan: Mountain Club of Western as Management Committee members Georges A champion for the traditional values of moun- • Anne Arran (re-election), United Kingdom, Caspian University, Azerbaijan Elzière (FFCAM, France), Juan Garrigos i Toro taineering, Doug Scott’s achievements are signif- British Mountaineering Council, Continental (FEDME, Spain) and Reza Zarei (IMSCF, Iran) for icant. The first Briton, alongside his friend Dougal Representation: Europe Observer Member their longstanding commitment and dedication Haston, to conquer Everest and on a previously • International: International Commission for • Kul Bahadur Gurung, Nepal, Nepal to the UIAA. unclimbed route up the South West Face, his list Alpine Rescue (ICAR) Mountaineering Association, General of climbing feats are remarkable. Representation The backgrounds, skills and talents of new EB and MC members are diverse. They include Changes of Membership Doug has committed himself to a number of • Steve Long, United Kingdom, British those who have served in key roles such as pres- projects including writing several memoirs and Mountaineering Council, General • Costarican Federation of Mountain ident and board members of major national through his stewardship of Community Action Representation Sports (FECODEM) is now elected as a Full climbing federations. The range of professional Member, formerly an Observer Member Nepal (CAN), a charity dedicated to causes in • Jean Miczka, France, Fédération française the country where Doug achieved many of his backgrounds includes natural and political sci- • National Adventure Association of des clubs alpins et de montagne, Largest won the UIAA Mountain Protection Award ence, law, expedition and tourism management, Malaysia is now elected as a Full Member, feats. CAN Federation Representation international mountain guidance and training, formerly an Observer Member in 2018. He also spearheaded the UIAA paper • Greg Moseley (re-election), South Africa, polar research as well as civil and aeronautical ‘Preservation of Natural Rock for Adventure Climbing’, Mountain Club of South Africa, Continental engineering. The UIAA will undoubtedly benefit a cause he passionately campaigned. Doug Scott Representation: Africa across all of its activities from the enthusiasm and is also an honorary member of The Alpine Club Executive Summary

and the American Alpine Club and Patron of the working process for the coming years. In charting the progress of the Strategic Plan British Mountaineering Council. 2021-2024, the UIAA will communicate regularly It will be guided by the profile approved at the on the process. For further details please refer to Doug Scott was delighted with the recognition UIAA GA in 2019: pages 18-19. from the UIAA family: “This has been an unex- “The UIAA is the International Climbing and pected honour which I am very proud to receive. Mountaineering Federation. As the leading global net- I join a long list of names over the years for whom work, we promote climbing and mountaineering and COMMISSION PRESENTATIONS I have the greatest respect.” Sadly Doug Scott advocate for access to climbing areas and mountain AND PANELS ranges. While looking to our future, we value our herit- passed away on 7 December 2020. Alongside the formal part of the GA, a series of age and care for the mountains, their fragile ecosystems, presentations and moderated panel discussions vulnerable communities, and cultures. We serve the best took place, designed both to provide members FUTURE GENERAL ASSEMBLIES interests of our member federations and of our worldwide community. For the Climbers. For the Mountains. with information on UIAA activities, to discuss The location of future UIAA GAs is dependent For the World.” sharing of best practices and to debate some of on the possibility of international travel and the the topical mountaineering questions of the day. development of the Covid-19 pandemic. The GA The mission will be carried out through strate- voted on the locations of the next three meetings: An extensive part of the GA was also dedicated gic priorities which are defined as: to Commission and Continental Reports, subjects • 2021 Trabzon, Turkey on 23 October 1) Providing guidance on critical and emerging which are articulated in more detail in the corre- • 2022 Banff, Canada, on 29 October mountaineering issues sponding chapters of this Annual Report. • 2023 Malta, date TBC 2) Setting and maintaining high standards FURTHER INFORMATION 3) Assisting, supporting and advocating the STRATEGIC PLAN UIAA 2021-2024 interests of national federations and their • For further details on the UIAA General Presented by Lode Beckers, UIAA General members at a global level Assemblies click here. Secretary, the GA voted to approve the process • The digital magazine, a Guide to the 2020 for the UIAA Strategic Plan 2021-2024. Beckers Beckers called for a ‘broadly based owner- UIAA General Assembly, can be found here. paid tribute to the valuable work conducted by ship of the implementation process’ from the various groups over recent years and explained new President through to member federations, • A full directory of UIAA member associations that the Strategic Plan 2021-2024 will be a Commissions, the EB, the MC and partners. can be viewed here.

GA Video Stream Day 1 – 23 October 2020 Day 2 – 24 October 2020 https://youtu.be/2WSl2a5JqnA https://youtu.be/kHwtUOovx04

© iStock 17 To prepare the UIAA strategy for the years after UIAA Strategy 2020, a number of documents were drawn up, developing a new strategy for the UIAA, assess- A key component of the UIAA ing every aspect of the international federation, Executive Board and Management its activities and the support provided to its Committee’s work over the coming members. Ahead of the 2019 UIAA Management years is developing the Strategic Committee meeting and the General Assembly Plan 2021-2024. At the 2020 GA, in Cyprus, a Strategic Working Group (SWG) published their findings and recommendations in a agreement was reached on its guiding report called ‘The UIAA of the 21st Century’. principles and three pillar structure (Safety, Sport, Sustainability). A In the months following the Cyprus GA,the UIAA EB presented to the MC and to Commission road map is now being developed Presidents an updated formulation of the UIAA’s to define a clearer executive plan vision, objectives and role. Carried by the exper- while working with Commissions to tise which went into the preparation of the ‘UIAA identify priority projects. of the 21st Century’ report, the resulting document is a compilation of the input received up to The current Strategic Plan, 2021-2024, can be now from the various bodies of the UIAA. downloaded here. Some of the key messages are presented in this chapter.

RECENT HISTORY AND STRATEGIC PRIORITIES The first Strategic Plan of the UIAA was presented to the 2011 General Assembly in Kathmandu and covered the period between 2012-2016. The plan was revised in 2016 in order to clarify some goals and to ensure that the objectives were in accordance with the so-called SMART criteria (Specific, Measurable, Assignable, Realistic,

Time-bound). ©Remy Duding The next Strategic Plan was drawn up, by the Executive Board and Management Committee at The proposed reworded objectives were ap- the time, for the years 2017-2020. It defined the proved at meetings of the Executive Board and goals the UIAA sought to achieve by 2020, based they were presented for further discussion to on member surveys and a SWOT analysis. For the Management Committee members, to the UIAA years 2017–2020, it has served as a basis for UIAA Commissions, to former SWG members, and to Commissions to prepare their own plans and for voting federations at the 2019 GA where they the UIAA to work towards those goals. were approved.

RESTATED STRATEGIC PRIORITIES FOR climbing, skyrunning and mountain medicine 2020 AND BEYOND – A SUMMARY research.

MISSION 3. To assist, to support and to advocate the interests of national federations and their mem- The mission of the UIAA Global Mountain bers at a global level Network is to uphold the values and interests of the climbing and mountaineering community The UIAA exists to serve its members. Its task and to provide assistance to member federations is to assist national federations, to respond to promoting environmentally responsible, enjoy- member inquiries, to defend their interests, to able and safe mountaineering. The UIAA advo- advocate among international and Olympic asso- cates for and upholds the interests of climbing ciations the cause of responsible and sustainable and mountaineering federations and their mem- mountaineering. A pertinent example is the sup- bers and maintains rewarding relationships with port and worldwide information currently provid- local communities and their relevant authorities, ed during the Covid-19 crisis. international sport sector authorities, internation- The Strategic Plan document also outlines the al partners and agencies, and with international source documents which supported its creation, private sector operators. This mission is carried the UIAA three pillar structure (Safety, Sport, out by focusing on three priorities: Sustainability) and the goals of each of these 1. To provide guidance on critical and emerg- pillars. ing mountaineering issues

The UIAA aims to contribute to mountain protection and stewardship through responsible behav- iour, while providing UIAA members with international guidance on the increasing climbing and mountaineering risks caused by climate change and by emerging challenges to mountain access. The UIAA also seeks to participate in initiatives to understand and alleviate adverse developments in the mountain environment as a result of climate change which may additionally raise new and increased challenges of safety and cultural sensitivity.

2. To set and maintain high standards Report by Through UIAA Commission activities, the UIAA The current Strategic Plan, 2021-2024, has led the way in a wide range of fields. The can be downloaded here. UIAA continues to set standards for climbing and Lode Beckers mountaineering in areas such as safety, mountain protection, training, responsible access, UIAA General Secretary mountaineering skills-building, sustainability, ice

19 MEMBERSHIP, FINANCE & UIAA OFFICE nomto i as poie o te IA Office UIAA and communication deliverables the on provided also is Information financial performance. the federation anddetails onthe2020 associations whopartner andsponsor six continents,theorganisationsand UIAA memberassociationsonall This chapter provides detailsonthe

Membership & Finances

UIAA Office

The UIAA closed 2020 with 90 Member Associations, comprising 66 full members, one unit member, 17 associate members and 6 observer members from 67 different countries, making a total of approximately 3.2 million individual members. Membership changes confirmed at the 2020 online UIAA General Assembly are highlighted in the following tables:

FULL MEMBERS JOINED NAME CODE COUNTRY UIAA

1 Afghanistan Climbing & Mountaineering Federation ACMF Afghanistan 2017

2 Albanian Mountaineering Federation FSHALTM Albania 2017

3 Federación Argentina de Ski y Andinismo FASA Argentina 1951

4 Verband Alpiner Vereine Österreichs VAVOE Austria 1951

5 Bangladesh Mountaineering Federation BMF Bangladesh 2013

6 Climbing & Mountaineering Belgium CMBEL Belgium 1932

7 Mountaineering Union of Federation Bosnia - Herzegovina PS FBIH Bosnia - Herzegovina 1997

8 Confederação Brasileira de Montanhismo e Escalada CBME Brazil 2005

9 Bulgarian Climbing and Mountaineering Federation BCMF Bulgaria 1935

10 The Alpine Club of Canada ACC Canada 1947

11 Federación de Andinismo de Chile FEACH Chile 1956

12 Chinese Mountaineering Association CMA China 1985

13 Costa Rican Federation of Mountain Sports FECODEM Costa Rica 2019

14 Croatian Mountaineering Association - Hrvatski Planinarski Savez HPS Croatia 1991

15 Cyprus Mountaineering Climbing & Orienteering Federation CMCOF Cyprus 2007

16 Czech Mountaineering Federation - Cesky Horolezecky Svaz CMF Czech Republic 1932

17 Danish Alpine Club - Dansk Bjergklub DBKK Denmark 1977

Left: Tiba Kangri, SW Face ©Tom Nakamura 21 Above: ©ICAR JOINED JOINED NAME CODE COUNTRY NAME CODE COUNTRY UIAA UIAA

18 Finnish Climbing Association FCA Finland 1995 40 Federación Mexicana de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada A.C FMDMyE Mexico 2020

19 Fédération française des clubs alpins et de montagne FFCAM France 1932 41 Club Alpin Monégasque CAM Monaco 1994

20 Mountaineering and Climbing Association of Georgia MCAG Georgia 1933 42 Mongolian National Sport Climbing Federation MNSCF Mongolia 2010

21 German Alpine Club - Deutscher Alpenverein DAV Germany 1932 43 Federation Royale Marocaine de Ski et Montagnes FRMSM Morocco 2017

22 Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing EOOA Greece 1936 44 Nepal Mountaineering Association NMA Nepal 1975

23 Federacion Nacional de Andinismo de Guatemala FNAG Guatemala 2017 45 Royal Dutch Mountaineering and Climbing Club NKBV Netherlands 1932

24 China Hong Kong Mountaineering and Climbing Union CHKMCU Hong Kong 1988 46 New Zealand Alpine Club NZAC New Zealand 1932

25 Hungarian Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation MHSSz Hungary 2001 47 Norwegian Alpine Club - Norsk Tindeklub NTK Norway 1965

26 Indian Mountaineering Foundation IMF India 1981 48 Mountaineering Federation of North Macedonia FPSM North Macedonia 1999

27 Indonesia Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation FPTI Indonesia 2016 49 Alpine Club of Pakistan ACP Pakistan 1974

28 I.R. Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation IMSCF Iran 1972 50 Polish Mountaineering Association PZA Poland 1932

29 Mountaineering Ireland MI Ireland 2004 51 Clube Nacional de Montanhismo CNM Portugal 1955

30 Israel Climbers' Club ILCC Israel 2009 52 Romanian Alpine Club - Clubul Alpin Român CAR Romania 1938

31 Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association JMSCA Japan 1980 53 Russian Mountaineering Federation RMF Russia 1994

Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Federation 54 Saudi Climbing & Hiking Federation SCHF Saudi Arabia 2020 32 MSCRFK Kazakhstan 2017 of the Republic of Kazakhstan

55 Mountaineering Association of Serbia - Planinarski Savez Srbije PSS Serbia 2002 33 Korean Alpine Club CAC Korea 1969

56 Slovak Mountaineering Union - Slovensky Horolezecky Spolok JAMES Slovakia 1932 34 Kosovo Mountaineering and Alpinist Federation KMAF Kosovo 2011

57 Alpine Association of Slovenia PZS Slovenia 1991 35 Liechtensteiner Alpenverein LAV Liechtenstein 1959

58 The Mountain Club of South Africa MCSA South Africa 1992 36 Lithuanian Mountaineering Association LMA Lithuania 1991

59 Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada FEDME Spain 1932 37 Luxembourg Federations FLERA Luxembourg 1938

60 Swedish Climbing Federation - Svenska Klätterförbundet SKF Sweden 1973 38 National Adventure Association of Malaysia NAA Malaysia 2015

61 Swiss Alpine Club - Swiss Alpine Club SAC Switzerland 1932 39 Malta Climbing Club MCC Malta 2018 Membership & Finances

JOINED JOINED NAME CODE COUNTRY NAME CODE COUNTRY UIAA UIAA

62 Chinese Taipei Alpine Association CTAA Chinese Taipei 1989 15 Chinese Taipei Mountaineering Association CTMA Chinese Taipei 1993

63 Turkish Mountaineering Federation - Turkiye Dagcilik Federasyonu TDF Turkey 1967 16 The Alpine Club (*) AC United Kingdom 1934

64 Ukrainian Mountaineering and Climbing Federation UMCF Ukraine 1991 17 Alaskan Alpine Club ALAC United States 1985 Left: Tiba Kangri, SW Face ©Tom Nakamura (*) Alpine Club first joined UIAA in 1934, rejoined in 2003 65 British Mountaineering Council BMC United Kingdom 1947

66 The American Alpine Club AAC United States 1932 OBSERVER MEMBERS

JOINED NAME CODE COUNTRY UIAA

ASSOCIATE MEMBERS 1 Czech International Mountain Leader Association CZIML Czech Republic 2011

JOINED NAME CODE COUNTRY UIAA 2 Union of International Mountain Leaders Association UIMLA France/ International 2019

1 Mountain Club of Western Caspian University, Azerbaijan MCWCU Azerbaijan 2020 3 International Commission for Alpine Rescue ICAR International 2020

2 Ecole Nationale d’Escalade du Québec ENEQ Canada 4 Clube de Actividades de Ar Livre CAAL Portugal 2011

3 Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade FQME Canada 1975 IFMGA/ Switzerland/ 5 International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations 1987 UIAGM International 4 Danish Climbing Federation DCF Denmark 1998 Switzerland/ 6 International Slackline Association ISA 2019 International 5 Nehru Institute for Mountaineering NIM India 2011

6 Alpenverein Südtirol AVS Italy 1974

7 Korean Alpine Federation KAF Korea 1970

8 The Norwegian Climbing Federation - Norges Klatreforbund NKF Norway 1993 UNIT MEMBER

9 Federação de Campismo e Montanhismo de Portugal FCMP Portugal 1992 JOINED NAME CODE COUNTRY UIAA

10 Federação Portuguesa de Montanhismo e Escalada FPME Portugal 2004 Switzerland/ 1 International Skyrunning Federation ISF 2016 International 11 Centre Excursionista de Catalunya CEC Spain 1932

12 Basque Mountaineering Federation - Euskal Mendizale Federazioa EMF Spain 2002

13 Federació d'Entitats Excursionistes de Catalunya FEEC Spain 2000

14 Vereinigung der Akademischen Alpen-Clubs der Schweiz VAAC Switzerland 1985

23 Finance

Profit and Loss Statement 2020

RESULTS BUDGET RESULTS BUDGET CHF NOTES 2019 2020 2020 2021

INCOME

Membership Fees 316.000 302.800 305.500 1 295.000

Safety Label Fees 132.400 122.800 117.100 2 123.000

Other Fees (IC Service, TS) 215.200 97.100 122.800 3 111.800

Grants 54.800 56.000 51.400 4 55.300

Partnerships 198.800 198.500 198.900 5 239.500

TOTAL INCOME 917.200 777.200 795.700 824.600

EXPENSES

Staff 292.000 290.000 285.400 6 295.000

Services 40.200 40.800 41.800 7 41.200

Office, Administration 30.300 28.100 47.000 8 30.100

Meeting Expenses 45.700 37.000 9.100 9 37.000 Notes Commission Operative Expenses 14.500 20.000 900 10 27.600 The intention is to use the positive result of the year to strengthen

reserves and equity capital of the UIAA. Please refer to page 26 and Commission Projects 484.600 330.750 324.500 11 356.500 the proposal to the UIAA General Assembly regarding the ‘allocation of the result of the year’. Marketing, Communication 26.500 20.000 22.000 12 26.000

Due to Covid-19, Commission and WG activities were reduced, re- TOTAL EXPENSES 933.800 766.650 730.700 813.400 sulting in significantly lower expenses. Minimal travel meant fewer meeting expenses. No in-person meetings took place - also resulting RESULT OF THE YEAR -16.600 10.550 65.000 11.200 in a massive reduction of the UIAA carbon footprint. Allocation to Reserve -10.000 -60.000 13

NET RESULT -16.600 550 5.000 11.200

©UIAA

Notes

INCOME CHF COMMENT EXPENSES CHF COMMENT

1 Membership fees 305’500 With few exceptions, UIAA membership fees were paid in full by member federations. 10’000 better than budget; additional workload due to Covid-19 situation/online 6 Staff 285’400 meetings; 13’500 compensation received from Swiss Covid-19 programme Safety Label fees, 4% lower than budget. Some manufacturers have reduced 2 117’000 lab certification their number of Safety Labels significantly. 7 External services 41’800 UIAA Communication Manager (freelance); lawyers, auditors

Additional 20’000 service fees from local event organisers due to additional services Service fees, 8 Office, Admin 47’000 19’000 above budget, a.o. due to 16’000 currency discrepancy 3 112’800 provided by UIAA – also resulting in higher expenses for UIAA; license fees 3’700 athletes licences below budget due to lower number of athletes, as only three World Cups were held 28’000 better than budget: no in-person meetings; 9 Meetings 9’100 includes online meeting software and support 3 Training 10’000 Additional income from Alpine Handbook license fees Operating Expenses 19’000 better than budget due to Covid-19 situation 10 900 4 Office 20’000 Annual SAC contribution for Office costs Commissions and online instead of in-person meetings

6’000 better than budget due to Covid-19/reduced commission 4 ARISF 5’000 Annual ARISF contribution for youth activities 11 Commissions 324’500 activities and postponed commission projects

Annual IOC contribution for anti-doping procedures and sport development (e.g. 4 IOC 26’400 Marketing, upgrading of results and registration system, livestream production and distribution) 12 22’000 2’000 above budget (printing/sending of 2019 Annual Report) Communication

5 Partnerships 198’900 Includes USD 120’000 cash and USD 80’000 in-kind See proposal to the UIAA General Assembly regarding 13 Allocation to reserves 60’000 allocation of the result of the year

Income 2020 Expenses 2020

Partnerships 25% Staff Membership 39% Fees Commissions 38% 45%

Grants 6%

Service Fees Service, Admin, 15% Meetings, Safety Label Marketing 15% 16%

25 Balance Sheet Notes

CHF 31 DECEMBER 2019 31 DECEMBER 2020 NOTES ASSETS CHF COMMENT

ASSETS Due to pandemic: no in- person meetings, no travel and Cash and cash A +160’000 accommodation expenses, Current assets equivalents reduced/delayed commission activities and projects. Cash and cash equivalents 427.299 567.945 A SAC: balance in favour of UIAA Receivables 15.593 5.814 B B Receivables -10’000 resulting from SAC services, SAC grant and UIAA payments. Prepayments and accrued income 70.042 13.009 C Reduced pre-payments for Inventory 5.000 5.000 Prepayments and 2021 Ice Climbing season C -57’000 accrued income compared to 2020 due to scaled back competition calendar. Non-current assets ©Mountain Club of Western Caspian University Intangibles 0 0

LIABILITIES CHF COMMENT TOTAL ASSETS 517.934 591.768

Reduced staff overtime D Accounts payable -1’500 and social charges LIABILITIES & FUNDS

Current liabilities Accrued expenses 2021 sponsoring for Ice Climbing E and deferred +15’500 and some 2021 Safety Label Accounts payable 8.209 6.651 D income fees received in advance.

Other short term liabilities 5.192 0 Varies depending on the F General provision +/-0 allocation of the result of the year, Accrued expenses and deferred income 172.111 187.660 E tbd by the General Assembly.

General provision 48.989 48.989 F

Total current liabilities 234.501 243.300 ©Czech Mountaineering Association Non-current liabilities

Funds Proposal to the UIAA General Assembly 2021 regarding Solidarity fund 3.621 3.621 allocation of the result of the year 2020

Access and conservation fund 2.763 2.763 CHF

Total funds 6.384 6.384 Contingency reserves 20’000 Equity accounts Solidarity fund 30’000 Capital of the association as per 1 January 293.658 277.049

Result of the year -16.609 65.035 General reserve 10’000

Capital of the association as per 31 December 277.049 342.084 Net result 5’035 TOTAL LIABILITIES AND FUNDS 517.934 591.768 Membership & Finances

Finance & Membership Reports by

Peter Muir UIAA Treasurer (pre GA 2020)

Françoise Jaquet UIAA Treasurer (post GA 2020)

Lode Beckers UIAA General Secretary

Nils Glatthard UIAA Director of Operations

Agnes Semelet UIAA Accountant

Stephanie Stettbacher UIAA Office

DONATE: Financial support for climbing

Support the UIAA, its members and partners in delivering international projects which make a difference.

https://www.theuiaa.org/donate Office

UIAA Office Report The UIAA Office is located in Bern. The staff working in Switzerland are responsible for running the daily operations of the UIAA. It is the staff’s duty and commitment to serve UIAA members and to support, coordinate, plan and im- plement the activities and decisions of the Executive Board, the Management Committee and UIAA Commissions. On an operational level, the UIAA continues to benefit from a close collaboration with the SAC, Swiss Alpine Club.

NILS GLATTHARD STEPHANIE STETTBACHER

DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS OFFICE COORDINATOR & [email protected] SAFETY LABEL ADMINISTRATOR [email protected]

• General management and coordination of the UIAA staff in Bern and abroad. • Member services: first and main • Management and implementation of UIAA contact for UIAA member associations, projects. General Assembly organisation, GA agendas and minutes. • Coordination of internal and external communication. • Management Committee services: MC meeting organisation, preparation of • Preparation and presentation of budgets and agendas and minutes, implementation financial reports in collaboration with the UIAA of MC decisions. Treasurer. • Commission services: member admin- • Link between staff, volunteers, EB, Commission istration, preparation and coordination Presidents, Management Committee and mem- of Safety Commission meetings. ber associations. • UIAA Safety Label administration: • Development and presentation of partnership standards, test labs, manufacturers, proposals and contracts. certificates, invoices. • UIAA representation at events and on international platforms.

SPORT EVENTS COORDINATOR PROJECT MANAGER COMMUNICATION MANAGER ACCOUNTANT [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

• Support, coordination, planning • Development of the “Global • Development and implementation • Preparation of budgets, forecasts, and implementation of projects, of UIAA’s communication strategy, profit and loss statements, balance Mountain Network” through coop- activities and decisions of the plans and tools. sheet, in collaboration with the eration and exchange of informa- UIAA Ice Climbing, Youth and Anti- UIAA Treasurer and Director of tion with relevant international • Content producer and coordinator Doping Commissions. Operations. organisations and partners. in general. • Collaboration and development of • Day-to-day website updates • Accounting, bookkeeping. • UIAA representation on national relationships with sport organisa- (coordination regarding website • Member surveys, invoices, remind- and international sustainability tions, stakeholders and partners: development which is managed ers, payments. platforms. IOC, member federations, event by external webmasters) and social organisers, sponsors, media, ath- • Development and coordination media management. letes and officials. of the UIAA Mountain Protection • Newsletters, press releases, • Development and coordination Award, Respect the Mountains member/partner/sponsor of UIAA’s international events Movement and other UIAA pro- communications. such as UIAA Ice Climbing jects and partnerships. • Annual Report and GA magazine World Championships, UIAA • Evaluation and development of creation. Ice Climbing World Tour, UIAA new funding opportunities, linked Ice Climbing World Youth Federation to UIAA or UIAA partner projects, Management Championships and Continental 28% such as donations and legacies. Ice Climbing Cup Series. 32% • Support and implementation of • Office support and link for sport-related projects and deci- UIAA Medical Commission and sions of the UIAA Executive Board, the International Skyrunning Management Committee, General Federation. Safety, Medical Assembly and Commissions. Mountaineering, Youth, Rock 16% Mountain 10% Staff Time Allocation 2020 Protection 14% Office

In 2020, the Office is composed of six paid staff members, including one independent for communication, representing 4.2 full-time jobs in total.

Organisational chart

UIAA MEMBER FEDERATIONS

Court UIAA General Assembly Auditors

Report by

UIAA Management Committee UIAA Working Groups UIAA Commissions Nils Glatthard UIAA Director of Operations UIAA Executive Board Office Address: UIAA - International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation Monbijoustrasse 61 UIAA Office Marketing Office/Safety Postfach CH-3000 N Glatthard N Glatthard S Stettbacher Bern 14 Switzerland Communication Accounting P Bourne Safety Sport Projects A Semelet www.theuiaa.org S Stettbacher R Adie C Kahoun [email protected]

31 Communication General Assembly – Digital Magazine To facilitate planning for the 2020 General The UIAA’s communication services Assembly (held online for the first time), the UIAA published a digital magazine. The concept created are delivered both to its membership for the 2018 GA serves both as a six-month up- and to the wider climbing and date from the publication of the Annual Report and seeks to condense as many of the support- mountaineering community. ing documents for the GA into one publication. The aim in future years is for all reference materials to be consolidated into one document. STRATEGY DIGITAL The UIAA communication strategy is built around collaboration with all of its Commissions, Website member associations, partners as well as events The UIAA website was last overhauled in 2016 and projects. The strategy put in place ensures and has undergone incremental updates ever since. all aspects of the UIAA’s activities (as defined by Throughout 2020, small adjustments and im- the Strategic Plan) are promoted throughout the provements were made to most areas. These year. include a new landing page for all Safety assets, a consolidated About/Organisation page and a reformat of the home page. Significant work was PUBLICATIONS also conducted to improve site performance. One of the plans in 2021 is the creation of a ded- Annual Report icated document library, a ‘one stop shop’ of all UIAA core assets. One of the key deliverables to its members, the Compared to 2019, the UIAA website figures UIAA Annual Report was completely revised in were down in terms of visits and page views. 2018 to include dedicated areas on member This can be largely attributed to Covid-19. The benefits, greater access to digital material, links lack of a full UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour, the to key assets and presented in a more attractive, postponement of the UIAA Mountain Protection Award and a freeze on certain other factors readable format. The 2019 edition was built around played contributing factors. However, the UIAA’s this new model taking in feedback from mem- Covid-19 portal, a new feature on its website, de- bers and the UIAA Management Committee. A signed to provide members with information and support throughout the evolution of the print version of the 2019 Report was distributed pandemic brought significant traffic, particularly to member associations. An archive of Annual during the initial global lockdown. Despite the Reports dating back to 2013 can be viewed here. overall figures being down, 2020 statistics were

©Shutterstock COMMUNICATION

Videos of Interest

UIAA Mountain Promo: UIAA Mountain The Ice King: Protection Award Medicine Advice Papers Heeyong Park Promo (2021) https://www. https://www.youtube. https://youtu. youtube.com/ com/watch?v=z- be/h_msy4J27xQ watch?v=ZzmU0cQ8psA hZCkXQsM8&t=91s

on a par with the then record year of 2018. The Newsletters advice papers, UIAA Safety Label and the total page views of the UIAA website exceeded Mountain Protection Award. The monthly emailed newsletter, primarily target- 600,000. ed at members, provides all subscribers with the Website statistics compared to 2019: latest, key news and updates from the UIAA. To SERVICES subscribe to the newsletter please click here. • The number of decreased by unique users Core Global Resources 15% Social Media The UIAA offers its members and the wider climb- • The number of new users decreased by The UIAA is active on social media as a means of ing and mountaineering community a significant 15% engaging with the climbing community and en- array of global resources, notably: • The number of visits decreased by 19% suring a wide distribution of UIAA information. • The number of page views decreased by • Climber Safety advice 20% The UIAA is present on: • Training and skills • The average session duration decreased c 45,000 followers • International calendars by 5% d 12,000 followers • Medical advice Most viewed pages on UIAA website in a 9,000 subscribers • Member associations directory 2020(*): f 7,000 followers * • Declarations and advice papers 1) Certified Equipment (*) use for UIAA Ice Climbing competitions Further details are provided in the dedicated 2) Ice Climbing In the near future, the UIAA hopes to dedicate chapters of this report. 3) Safety Standards more resources to social media and is exploring the use of new channels. 4) Rock Climbing Grades MEMBER ASSOCIATIONS

5) Mountaineering Video Content The UIAA Communication team is always keen 6) UIAA Safety Label Video content, especially when shared through to share information about member association social media, provides the UIAA with a dynam- activities. Please email [email protected]. Likewise, 7) Covid-19 Portal ic way of sharing information about its projects. any material produced by the UIAA is free of re- Report by 8) Training Standards Increasing the creation of video material is one of strictions for members to use and share in their Peter Bourne the objectives of the coming year. 9) Member Associations Directory own publications and across digital channels. Video material currently available includes Working together we can provide the climbing UIAA Communication Mountain Medicine Advice 10) and mountaineering world with the information streams and highlights of UIAA Ice Climbing Manager (*) Excludes home page World Tour competitions, guides to Medical important to them.

33 Further Reading

UIAA Court

In every structured and democratic organisation, there should be three separate powers: legislative, executive, and judicial. UIAA Volunteer Series: The UIAA Court is this internal and independent Pierre Humblet judicial body of the UIAA (AoA 23). Its task is to https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/ solve, when requested, any possible disputes be- uiaa-volunteer-series-pierre-humblet/ tween the UIAA, UIAA members and UIAA bodies, and between UIAA member organisations. This is a first instance internal Arbitration Court where possible disputes must be brought before any appeal to an external one, in this instance the Court of Arbitration for Sport at Lausanne (AoA 23 3) and 24)).

This is not the sole mission assigned to the UIAA Court. It is also the independent judicial body founded to decide upon the alleged violations of the UIAA Code of Ethics (Article 4). Additionally, the UIAA Court is also the Ethics Panel in charges of conflicts of interests, should the Executive Board be unable to reach a decision.

No case of any kind was filed in 2020. This is de- Report by finitively good news. The main role of the Court

over the past twelve months has been to offer ad- Pierre Humblet vice about AoAs and UIAA regulations. (CMBEL, Belgium) President, UIAA Court The UIAA Court is looking to recruit the expertise Court Members of more arbitrators. Any federations who have ex- Denis PONCELIN (FFCAM, France)

perienced arbitrators, lawyers or managers, are Franz STÄMPFLI-GLATTHARD (SAC, Switzerland) invited to propose candidates to the UIAA Court. Marco DEL ZOTTO

©Leigh McClurg, Pebbleshoo.ca. Courtesy of ACC COURT & LEWG

Legal Experts Working Group

The Legal Experts Working Group (LEWG) provides assistance to any UIAA body or working group requires it support

The LEWG is formed of lawyers from national Report by mountaineering associations across the globe, whose expertise ranges from environmental and Klara Dvorakova public law, damages, professional liability as well (Chair), Czech Republic (CMLA) as sports and travel law. The WG is established As confirmed by the UIAA Management under the Mountaineering Commission, and pro- Committee (October 2020) vides assistance to any UIAA body or working group needs legal advice. In 2020 the WG assist- Full Members ed with UIAA activities related to the prevention Klara DVORAKOVA (Chair), of unauthorised use of its trademarks and logos Czech Republic (CMLA) or to the system of UIAA accredited testing lab- Bénédicte CAZANAVE, oratories. A Covid disclaimer form to protect the France (FFCAM) UIAA from any potential litigation has also been Xabier EZEIZABARRENA, Spain (EMF) reviewed by the WG. Members of the group Damjan OMERZU, Slovenia (PZS) regularly exchange information about new case- Edward EVERETT VAILL, USA (AAC) laws related to the mountaineering and climbing. Starting from January 2021 the WG will hold Getulio RAINER VOGETTA, Brazil (CBME) more regular monthly online meetings.

Corresponding Members Anna GILLOOLY, New Zealand (NZAC) Further Reading Pablo HEUSER, Chile (FEACH) Dr Dominik KOCHOLL UIAA Volunteer Series: Klara Dvorakova Gerald LANNING, New Zealand (NZAC) https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/ Matt MAKGILL, New Zealand (NZAC) uiaa-volunteer-series-klara- dvorakova/ Jim MOSS, United States (AAC)

©Malta Climbing Club 35 Sponsors & Partners

SPONSORS

BALLY OUTDOOR RESEARCH PETZL FOUNDATION SUNDAY AFTERNOONS theuiaa.org/ theuiaa.org/ice-climbing theuiaa.org/ the-uiaa-mountain-sustainability/ mountain-protection-award/ mountain-qualification-label respect-the-mountains/

INTERNATIONAL OBSERVER MEMBERS

ICAR IFMGA UIMLA ISA International Commission for International Federation of Union of International Mountain International Slackline Alpine Rescue Mountain Guides Associations Leader Associations Association

PARTNERS

ARISF GAISF MRI PEACE AND SPORT Association of IOC Recognised Global Association of Mountain Research Initiative peace-sport.org International Sport Federations International Sports Federations SPONSORS & PARTNERS

The Bern office and Executive Board are continually exploring new commercial opportunities and means of approaching sponsors as well as increasing the UIAA’s international network through partnerships with likeminded organisations.

Outdoor Research is dedicated to inspiring the jour- The 2020-2021 and 2022 UIAA Mountain

ney ahead with innovative technical apparel and Protection Awards will be partnered by Bally,

accessories designed for outdoor adventures. the Swiss luxury fashion brand, founded in

Outdoor Research is the Title Sponsor of the UIAA 1851, with a pioneering heritage in climbing and mountaineering. Ice Climbing World Tour 2019-2023.

SPORT ACCORD UNEP 10YFP sportaccord.sport United Nations United Nations 10-Year YFP Recognised since 1995 Environment Programme Sustainable Tourism Programme by the International Olympic Committee (IOC)

37 COMMISSIONS their field. Commissions are comprised of experts in mountaineering community. UIAA advocate onbehalfof theinternational recommendations, setpolicy and of itsCommissions,which make Statement mainly through thework The UIAA fulfilsitsMission Training), Mountain Protection, Safety and Youth. Mountaineering (including Access & Commissions: Anti-Doping, Ice Climbing, Medical, The UIAA operates through thefollowing Commissions

Objectives and Guidelines. Other key achieve- Mountain Protection ments were the confirmed signing of theMoU between the UIAA and the United Nations Environment Programme in February 2020, and the participation MISSION STATEMENT and representation of the UIAA by MPC delegates in the UNFCCC Sports for Climate Action Since it was founded in 1969, Working Groups, among other notable events. the UIAA Mountain Protection The MPC was also active in a number of initiatives Commission (MPC) has worked to organised to coincide with International Mountain Day guide action and be the voice of the (see dedicated section). UIAA for advocacy on mountain protection – the mountains being one of the last natural and free spaces of significance on Earth. The MPC’s goal is to ensure that the mountain’s unique environment and cultures will still be there for the benefit of future generations of mountaineers and wider humanity. The MPC also promotes the work of UIAA members and the broader mountaineering community that contribute positively ©Mujer Montana to sustainable mountain development.

Read more: Fifty years of the UIAA Mountain ANNUAL COMMISSION MEETING Protection Commission The annual MPC meeting was due to take place on 29-30 May in Woerden, The Netherlands, at the in- EXECUTIVE SUMMARY OF 2020 vitation of the Royal Dutch Mountaineering Club (NKBV). The meeting was scheduled as a one-day Despite considerable challenges as a result of the pre-meeting workshop with key MPC stakehold- Covid-19 pandemic, the MPC continued its work ers and partners – the IFMGA Environmental and to support in the design and implementation for Access Commission and the UN Environment two of the key projects that support the UIAA’s Programme (UNEP), among other experts, fol- commitment to sustainability as part of its stra- lowed by a full-day MPC meeting the next day. tegic plan - the Mountain Protection Award (MPA) and the Respect the Mountains (RtM) global movement, as well as make progress with its third pro- However, due to Covid-19, the session was adapt- ject – updating the existing UIAA Environmental ed to a shorter virtual MPC meeting on Friday 30

Left: ©Remy Duding 39 Above: ©Shutterstock Library May to address Commission matters only, post- and challenges of sustainable civilisations. It fea- poning the workshop until 2021. tured MPC delegate Hussein Baghirov as keynote speaker. Mr Baghirov is director of Mountain The meeting was chaired by re-elected Culture and Landscape Research Institute. More SUPPORT FOR UIAA MEMBERS Commission President Carolina Adler, who was information here. appointed for a second term in the role. The Commission reviewed its delegate member- Exhibition material on “Mountaineering in a The MPC continues to ensure that in ship, proposed changes to draft Commission time of climate change” for the Slovenian Alpine the design of the two key mountain Regulations and prepared its inputs for the up- Museum, Mojstrana, Slovenia. MPC delegate protection and sustainability projects coming strategic plan for the UIAA for the period Professor Irena Mrak contributed to the research at the UIAA – the MPA and the here 2021-2024. Further details can be found . and material to be presented in this new exhibi- RtM global movement - are explicit tion at the Slovenian Alpine Museum. provisions and mechanisms in place EVENTS ATTENDED IN 2020 https://www.planinskimuzej.si/en/about-the-museum/ ©Sunday Afternoons to prioritise, support and encourage Presentation to President and Board of Limerick Symposium on “Visiting the Mountains in the UNFCCC Sports for Climate Action – various the participation of UIAA members Institute of Technology (University) on the role Time of Climate Change”, Alpine Museum of meetings held virtually in 2020. The following to not only showcase their initiatives, and function of the UIAA and the work of the Slovenia, 20 June, Mojstrana, Slovenia. The MPC delegates are contributing to and repre- but also participate and be eligible symposium was one of many activities promot- Mountain Protection Commission, 7 January, senting the UIAA in Working Groups created by for the prizes, resources and exposure Limerick, Ireland. Vice President of the MPC, Mike ed in the region as part of the implementation the UNFCCC and the signatories to this Initiative Maunsell gave a presentation on the international of a project by the Ministry of the Environment to spearhead progress on the Initiative’s ob- on offer to promote their work. collaborative potential of the UIAA and the MPC. and Spatial Planning to promote the Alpine jectives: Carolina Adler, Ganesh Gurung, Mike The current joint work with the IFMGA in updat- Convention in Slovenia. Irena Mrak gave a pres- Maunsell and Hussein Baghirov. Carolina Adler Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change ing the Environmental Objectives and Guidelines entation on the topic of “Aspects of visiting the (IPCC), Working Group II Contributions to the attended the Annual Meeting of the UNFCCC ensures that the MPC also responds to the pri- mountains in Slovenia and around the world, Sixth Assessment Report (AR6). Third Lead Sports for Climate Action, held virtually on 30 orities and stated needs that member delegates shaped by climate change”. Authors Meeting – 25 January to 1 February, Faro, September to reflect on the state of sports in the expressed in a survey conducted in 2018. time of Covid-19, present the work that has been Portugal. Carolina Adler attended as IPCC Lead Virtual webinar on Sustainable Development Given the Commission delegates’ extensive and Author and Coordinating Lead for the Cross- in the changing global context, 10 July, Baku, achieved so far and to inform the strategy go- active engagement in several global platforms Chapter Paper on “Mountains”. The meeting was Azerbaijan. Event was coordinated and chaired ing forward to deliver on the Sports for Climate and initiatives on mountains and sustainability as an opportunity to ensure updates and assess- by Hussein Baghirov. Action commitments. part of its daily professional work, the MPC also ment progress on the effects of climate change in offers the UIAA and all its members ample rep- Publication launch for book titled “Irish Peaks mountain regions worldwide were reported and resentation and opportunity to “carry their voic- Book: Irish Peaks”, July. This is a large-format es” at these important spaces for advocacy, able reflected in the draft of the report. book, celebrating Ireland’s highest mountains to present their ideas and concerns on their be- Virtual webinar event titled “Sustainable through an inspiring collection of 71 hillwalking half. As always, the MPC is also available to pro- Development: Is it possible?”, 30 April, Baku, routes, covering all of Ireland’s main mountain ar- vide all UIAA members and other Commissions Azerbaijan. The Mountain Culture and Landscape eas. Mike Maunsell was invited as Vice President professional advice on environmental sustaina- Research Institute of Western Caspian University of the MPC to write the introductory section titled bility issues or concerns, as the need or request arises, for example in the advice provided to organised the event, titled “Sustainable 'Ireland's Mountain Environment' detailing the the Ice Climbing Commission on sustainability Development: Is It Possible?”. The event focused importance of mountain ecosystems, mountain guidelines for the hosting of competition events. on the role of sustainable development, subse- geology, species of mountain plants, animals and quent change of the environment and the threats birds in Ireland. Commissions

projects throughout their lifecycle. In the second 2019 suggested by the Commission centred on with the support of UNEP, the MPC submitted a half of 2020, the UIAA commenced a series pro- an online calendar of events and initiatives that proposal to the European Outdoor Conservation filing past Mountain Protection Award winners. not only address waste management but also fo- Association (EOCA) in order to seek funding to PROJECTS cus on education. However, due to Covid-19, the support the development of the RtM series and Featured projects included: Mountain Wilderness calendar was not actively promoted since there develop the relationship with UN Environment MOUNTAIN PROTECTION AWARD (MPA) France (2016), Mount Everest Biogas Project (2017) were many restrictions to visit mountains destina- and IFMGA on the sustainability guidelines. The and AlpineLearning Project Weeks (2019). The decision was taken by the Commission tions. A new proposal to invigorate the RtM series proposal also supports the establishment of a postpone the assessment award for 2020 was put together by the MPC, with the support of partnership and collaboration with EOCA. to due to Biodiversity & Covid-19 challenges experienced by member International Mountain Day (IMD) UN Environment and with participation from the Other key partnerships have been supported and federations and others, instead proposing to IFMGA and the Mountain Research Initiative. The negotiated with key financial and in-kind donors For the annual 11 December International conduct the assessment and award the prize in proposed project centres on clean-up events in such as Sunday Afternoons and Bally, the latter Mountain Day (IMD), representatives from five 2021 and combining all submissions so far for tandem with webinars and online education pro- providing substantial financial support, details of MPA nominees on three continents provided the MPA 2020-21. This was approved by the UIAA grammes, as well as workshops in the mountains. which were unveiled at the GA in Cyprus in 2019, information on the recent progress of their initi- Executive Board and Management Committee, to support the development of the current MPA atives, how their project directly promotes biodi- as well as project sponsor, Bally. With the funding into a platform that offers broader incentive for versity (the official theme of IMD 2020), the wider UIAA ENVIRONMENTAL available by Bally, the MPC has identified tasks participation and that adequately acknowledges importance of biodiversity to mountain life and OBJECTIVES AND GUIDELINES for experts to assist in a review of the MPA over and rewards initiatives and best practices. the years, that would serve as a basis to inform the impact Covid-19 has had on their operations. The underlying structure for the guidelines is the future developments for the MPA. The new dead- The projects featured as part of a dedicated IMD subject of consultations between MPC delegates social media campaign (#mountainsmatter). and external experts, with the support of UN Environment and IFMGA in 2020. Workshops to Profiled Projects build the content will be conducted in 2021 with Patagonia Waste Management, Argentina parallel consultations with UIAA members, and Study and Monitoring of Chachacomani the final document planned for launch in 2022 to Glacier, Bolivia mark the 20th Anniversary since the first declared Save the Barun, Nepal International Year of Mountains back in 2002 Swat Project, Pakistan John Muir Trust, UK PARTNERSHIPS Key partnerships created and fostered in 2020 in- CARBON FOOTPRINT REPORT 2019 clude the now signed MoU with UN Environment, Climate change is another key focus of the UIAA which facilitates and ensures that the UIAA is ©High Altitude Mountain Cleaners and was debated in detail at the federation’s supported in its efforts to pursue projects and Collaborations with and contributions to the General Assembly recent . At the end of 2020, the initiatives on mountain protection, backed by work of the Training Panel and Ice Climbing UIAA published its Carbon Footprint Report for the technical and global reach and legitimacy Commission are also planned and/or underway. line to submit applications for the 2020-21 MPA 2019, comparing progress with its inaugural re- of organisations such as UNEP. In 2020, focus is 31 May 2021. port for 2018. was also directed to enhancing the existing col- INTERNATIONAL MOUNTAIN DAY laboration with the IFMGA Environmental and Profiles of past winners For the United Nations’ International Mountain Access Commission, flagging the opportunity to RESPECT THE MOUNTAINS (RTM) Day (IMD) – 11 December – the UIAA was in- A significant focus of the Award is the support continue to pursue the joint project on sustain- credibly active and supported initiatives run and showcase the UIAA offers all nominated For the RtM global movement, a new approach in ability guidelines in 2020-21. Consequently, and

41 by the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), UIAA member associations, Mountain Partnership, the Mountain Research Initiative Report by (MRI) as well as those organised by the UIAA itself. Dr. Carolina Adler International Mountain Day Webinar UNEP hosted a live Mountains High Virtual UIAA Mountain Protection Event ‘Adventure for Climate Action’. Carolina Commission President Adler was among the panellists. Together with [email protected] mountaineer Will Gadd, the UNFCCC Sports for Adventure for Climate Action - Climate Action, speakers focused on how sports Live on International Mountain Day and adventure play a role in climate action. A vid- As confirmed by the UIAA https://youtu.be/8TqhmzYGpzI eostream of the session can be viewed from the Management Committee - October 2020 link in the dedicated column on the right. Full Members UIAA President Peter Muir took part in a Mountain Partnership virtual event. Highlighting the work Dr Carolina ADLER (President), Key Links New Zealand (NZAC) that many Mountain Partnership members, including the UIAA, are doing around the world, Michael MAUNSELL (Vice President), the event featured a high-level segment, a ses- Ireland (MI) sion on collaborative actions and programmes Hussein BAGHIROV, Azerbaijan (WCU) and a round table featuring Mountain Partnership Mountain Protection Harshwanti BISHT, India (IMF) Goodwill Ambassadors. https://www.theuiaa.org/mountain-protection/ Stephen GOODWIN, UK (BMC) Ganesh GURUNG, Nepal (NMA) 2021: THE YEAR AHEAD Amin MOEIN, Iran (IMSCF) Looking ahead, the MPC looks forward to contin- Joop SPIJKER, Netherlands (NKBV) Bally is a Swiss luxury brand uing to fulfil its commitment to the MPA, RtM, and Respect the Mountains UIAA Environmental Objectives and Guidelines https://www.theuiaa.org/mountain-protection/ Corresponding Members with an alpine heritage and as key priorities in its project portfolio, not least respect-the-mountains/ Ahmed AUPAR, Bangladesh (BMF) given the support provided by Bally and the ex- pioneering legacy since 1851. pected step change in evolving the concepts Maretha ALANT, South Africa (MCSA) and their implementation and the hopeful EOCA Lode BECKERS, Belgium (CMBEL) support. The MPC will look at the results achieved Jan Ivar BOE, Norway (NTK) In 2020 and 2021, the Bally Peak Outlook Foundation in the combined 2020-21 edition of the MPA as Mountain Protection Award Valeska BUCHEMI OLIVEIRA, Brazil (CBME) basis for further development and improvement https://www.theuiaa.org/mountain-protection-award/ has proudly partnered with the UIAA and its annual Toba DYSION, Indonesia (FPTI) of the projects’ concepts and implementation in Mountain Protection Award, celebrating and supporting 2021 and beyond, in addition to relying on the Irena MRAK, Slovenia (PZS) results of the internal review of the MPA and the Mary SANSEVERINO, Canada (ACC) innovation and the desire of climbers to make a positive projects promoted in it. difference through transformative mountain projects. Bally is a Swiss luxury brand with an alpine heritage and pioneering legacy since 1851.

In 2020 and 2021, the Bally Peak Outlook Foundation has proudly partnered with the UIAA and its annual Mountain Protection Award, celebrating and supporting innovation and the desire of climbers to make a positive difference through transformative mountain projects. many lab tests and field work ground to a halt. Safety Nevertheless, the UIAA Safety Commission had an active and productive year. Internal SafeCom meetings were held with greater frequency, there EXECUTIVE SUMMARY were seven internal SafeCom meetings and for the first time two online Plenary meetings. The Throughout its history, mountain first annual SafeCom meeting of 2020 was held safety has been at the forefront of online from 8-9 June. The session was attended the UIAA’s activities. The UIAA by ten national delegates, two corresponding Safety Label, and associated safety members, 11 laboratories, 27 manufacturers of climbing and mountaineering equipment, as well standards, have been in operation as guests from ICAR (International Commission since the 1960s. for Alpine Rescue), later elected UIAA Observer Member, and the Italian Alpine Club (CAI)’s The UIAA Safety Commission (SafeCom) is Centro Studi Materiali e Tecniche. formed of experts with engineering backgrounds from different UIAA member federations, as well SafeCom working groups have become increas- as international manufacturers with certified UIAA ingly active and participated in more online Safety Labels and accredited testing laboratories. meetings in 2020 than in the past. The move to SafeCom meets annually and is responsible for online platforms has been a positive reaction to developing the UIAA Safety Standards and con- restrictions and will be continued into 2021. sequently working to help minimise accidents re- SafeCom is in close contact with the climbing lated to climbing and mountaineering gear. equipment industry and continues to regularly monitor the impact of the Covid crisis. Amit Chowdhury (India, IMF), after four years as SafeCom President, was elected as an Executive Board member of the UIAA at the UPDATES TO UIAA STANDARDS 2020 General Assembly. In light of this appoint- UIAA 123 Rock Anchors: Corrosion Update ment, he stepped down as President of SafeCom. Recommended to chair the Commission for the After 12 years of research and testing the UIAA next four years was current Vice President Lionel released its Anchor Corrosion Standard. The Kiener of the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC). Kiener’s Commission is delighted to confirm the results nomination, as well as Alexis Mallon (FFCAM) as of this extensive project and updated its Standard Vice President of SafeCom was confirmed by the UIAA 123 Rock Anchors in December 2020. Three UIAA Management Committee in early 2021. classes of materials, depending on location of usage have been specified. This major update is based on scientific research performed by the THE IMPACT OF COVID-19 French Corrosion Institute in Brest (France) and It was generally accepted that the Covid-19 cri- Technopark Kralupy, UCT (Czech Republic) and sis would have a big impact on the equipment coordinated and funded by the UIAA for the safe- industry. Due to the situation early in 2020 ty of all climbers worldwide.

©Stock Library Commissions

Early in 2021 the Commission accredited UIAA 101 Dynamic Ropes rates will be stronger and humidity levels in- Technopark Kralupy, UCT Prague to test for stress The revision focused on correcting and reorgan- creased. Harnesses have been sent to a national 24 corrosion. A supporting guide with further de- ising information that had become outdated, as testing institute. Research is ongoing. tails, on the work behind, and findings from, the well as clarifying the optional water repellency Safety Alert: Canyoning Harnesses revised Standard 123 have been translated into test. It also includes length measurement as a Forty-eight discarded harnesses (from one to Chinese, French, German, Italian, Portuguese and manufacturer certified procedure instead of an Safety Standards annex, the procedure was verified by manufac- twenty years of use) were provided by profes- Spanish. turers in the working group. sionals for testing. The results of this first study seem to prove it could be a major safety issue, UIAA 104: Proposal to define steel cord in and should lead to complementary tests and re- Standard. FIXED ANCHORS NEEDED FOR TESTING search on canyon harness ageing. The reasons 82 The UIAA Ice Climbing Commission and World for these ruptures could be the influence of water Tour event organisers encourage athletes and of- and/or the conditions of use, such as drying and A communication was sent out for old anchors ficials to use UIAA certified equipment. Related to storage. The major finding was that the resistance of some harnesses had dropped severely, indeed Safety Label Holders to be sent to SafeCom for research and testing. this subject, the UIAA Ice Climbing Commission from 23 countries recently opened dialogue with SafeCom regard- to 10% of the standard value in a period of three Older anchors were designed and manufactured ing issues competitors had experienced in dam- to four years. aging textile quickdraws, as well as ropes, with Helmet rim impact: The helmet positioning in- when Stress Corrosion Cracking (SCC) was not their tools. In an attempt to make the quickdraw dex for laboratories has been defined. A more safer under the intense demands of competition, precise testing method is being prepared and acknowledged as a serious problem. As a result, the UIAA Ice Climbing Commission, and event +2000 then round robin testing of samples will be made. organisers, proposed the use of a metal cord they may be more prone to failure and should instead of textile to reduce the level of damage. Sharp edge test: After several years of devel- The Plenary agreed to clarify the language in opment by UIAA Safety Label holder Edelrid, a granted be monitored and used with caution in environ- Safety Labels UIAA 104 Standard to include steel cords in the machine dedicated to sharp edge testing has in 2020 testing of the quickdraw. SafeCom looks forward been provided to a UIAA accredited laboratory. ments where SCC could possibly occur. The nec- to having UIAA Standard-recognised quickdraws The lab presented the new tests, which are sim- essary factors to cause SCC have been shown to in future Ice Climbing competitions. ple and rapid to conduct and only require a rope sample of 70cm, and found good reproducibility. exist in urban environments and as far as 200km They may use the testing machine on other tex- WORKING GROUPS tiles. Further work is still required to tackle ambi- inland – if any signs of corrosion are present on Avalanche probes: More work and testing will ent temperatures, criteria for labelling a rope as take place this winter. SafeCom looks forward to cut resistant and how reproducible it will be with stainless steel anchors it is safest to replace them assessing results at its next meeting in May 2021. different machines.

in their entirety. SafeCom will conduct further re- Avalanche snow shovels: Discussions remain Trekking poles: The Working Group undertook ongoing on whether to continue to work on the exploratory work concerning the existing stand- search on the anchors received, and publish its limits set for shovels in the Standard. ardisation requirements for this type of gear; also, a limited survey to identify failure modes Canyoning harness: UV and humidity testing findings by the middle of 2021. and TP-related incident causes was performed. has been made on canyoning harnesses. There ©UIAA/Rob Adie Further details here. will now be second round of testing where UV

45 K Type Carabiner WG: The considerable amount issued to national federations. A significant com- Invitation of FPME – Portuguese Climbing The UIAA Safety Label logo is of work preformed by the WG has not yet pro- ponent of UIAA training programmes is spent on and Mountaineering Federation – and CIM – a registered trademark of the duced any conclusive results and work has to ensuring students use equipment that has been Mountain Environment Research Center – Earlier UIAA. in December 2019 – Portugal National Delegate, continue. Other working groups on EAS via-ferra- properly tested to the UIAA’s international high ta test method, load sharing devices (LSD), static Alexandre Velhinho gave a talk at the University of The UIAA Safety Label on a piece of level of standards. The Training Panel is now ap- ropes, and water repellent for other products e.g., Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro, Bragança, Portugal, climbing gear means that samples of proved to use the UIAA Safety Label logo and semi-static ropes, presented the results of their concerning “The role of UIAA on the promotion the equipment have been tested by an will issue its certificates as of 2021 with the UIAA work. Draft Standards are expected next year. of safety”; this was part of a national level event to accredited, independent third party and trademarked Safety Logo. shown to satisfy the requirements set commemorate International Mountain Day. The talk centred on the multiple activities undertak- forth in the UIAA Standard. However, no COLLABORATIONS & PUBLICATIONS Misuse page: A ‘’Misuse’’ search engine of the UIAA en by the Safety Commission together with the lab testing can ever truly reflect the range SafeCom has also commenced a Question and Safety Label was launched in June. Only UIAA ac- Training Panel and the Medical Commission to of situations encountered in practice. Answer Series , where UIAA Safety and Training credited manufacturers are authorised to use the insure ever increasing safety levels for climbing Purchasing climbing and mountaineering experts answer climbers’ questions about equip- UIAA Safety Label logo. The UIAA is concerned and mountaineering activities. equipment bearing the UIAA Safety Label ment and usage (see below). about unauthorised use of its trade names and supports the UIAA and its global mission On 27 June, the SafeCom President held an hour to promote safety, one of the key pillars Collaboration with Training Panel: The UIAA logos and takes active steps to address breaches long Zoom meeting with the mountain guides of the UIAA. The Safety Commission’s or potential breaches of its rights. This database is in the process of expanding the UIAA Safety of Nepal on the importance of certification and WG research is fully funded by the UIAA Label logo to incorporate Training Standards helps track inappropriate use. the UIAA Safety Label. Safety Label.

In ensuring its standards are always rele- UIAA Safety Commission Climber Q&A Series vant, the UIAA Safety Commission regularly studies the market and analyses accidents to determine if existing standards should be revised or upgraded. Furthermore, it Sunscreen and Climbing Gear Bolts near Edges accredits laboratories that test mountain- Read article Read article eering and climbing equipment to ensure that the test results are in accordance with UIAA standards.

Rope Testing Figure-Eight Knots Read article Read article

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The official logo of the UIAA Safety Label Commissions

Videos of Interest SafeCom thanks all of its Safety Label holders, accredited labs and internal Commission experts who work to support the quality and safety of climbing and UIAA/DAV Belay Safety Videos mountaineering equipment. https://www.theuiaa.org/mountaineering/ uiaa-and-dav-collaborate-on-safety-video-project/ Safety Commission theuiaa.org/safety/ uiaa-safety-label/ As confirmed by the UIAA Management Committee - October 2020 (*) safety-label-holders Key Links Members Lionel KIENER, Switzerland (SAC), President theuiaa.org/safety/ uiaa-safety-label/ Alexis MALLON, France (FFCAM), Vice President Safety Standards accredited-laboratories/ Per FORSBERG, Sweden (SCF) https://www.theuiaa.org/safety/safety-standards/ Nicholas GALPIN, United Kingdom (BMC) Stephen GLADIEUX, United States (AAC) Alan JARVIS, South Africa (MCSA) Ali SAHIN, Turkey (TDF) Certified Equipment Alexandre VELHINHO, Portugal (FPME) https://www.theuiaa.org/safety/safety-standards/ certified-equipment/ Corresponding Members Vittorio BEDOGNI, Italy Marc BEVERLY, United States Report by Frederico CAMPOS MARTINS DOS SANTOS, Misuse Database Brazil (CBME) https://www.theuiaa.org/safety/uiaa-safety-label/ Amit Chowdhury Dave CUSTER, United States (AAC) misuse/ UIAA Safety Commission President Christoph HUMMEL, Germany (DAV) 2017- 2020 Da Chai WANG, Chinese Taipei (CTMA) Agustin MOINAT, UK (ISA)

Recalls & Warnings Supported by Hitoshi ONODERA, Japan (JMSCA)

https://www.theuiaa.org/safety/safety-standards/recalls/ Lionel Kiener Augustin UNSAIN, Argentina (FASA) UIAA Safety Commission Vice President Thomas WEDLICK, United States (AAC) (President as of 2021) (*) As of MC January 2021

47 doctors with international experience contribute Medical to the Taskforce in discussing the escalating issues in certain countries, the impact and progress of vaccination programmes, as well as the effects MOUNTAIN of the virus on mountain related sports.

In March, the UIAA’s accredited laboratory for MEDICINE testing safety standards – Jiangsu Zhongzheng The mission of the UIAA Medical Testing Co., Ltd – made the kind gesture of providing 10,000 PPE facemasks for distribution Commission is to provide the by the UIAA. Through its Medical Commission, best possible advice through its where a number of delegates have worked on network of doctoral-level mountain the frontline during the pandemic, the UIAA medicine experts, advice pages, the identified areas where the donation would make International Diploma in Mountain a significant and positive impact. Medicine, and the dissemination Challenges of papers, translated into over ten Providing advice to a global community of out- languages. All members are doctors door enthusiasts is difficult, given the different and many are active teachers in their situations around the world. For MedCom’s rec- respective countries. ommendation papers, it remains a challenge to bridge the gap between physicians/experts and the general public in terms of sound advice and recommendations. EXECUTIVE SUMMARY OF 2020 Online Meetings Achievements In 2020 MedCom met in dedicated working Translations and the updating of MedCom rec- groups, such as the Women’s Health group, rath- ommendations remain at the centre of the er than as a whole commission. This allowed for Commission’s work. This includes: Continuation specific and targeted discussions around topics. and progress on papers about eye problems; drug use and misuse in mountaineering and travel to altitude with neurological disorders. SUPPORT FOR UIAA MEMBERS For the revision of two particular papers, name- MedCom provides a range of services for both ly Vol.12 Women going to Altitude and Vol.14 UIAA members and the wider mountaineering Contraception at Altitude, a female-led group community. Its high-altitude advice papers are has been formed with the task of coming up with internationally respected and the fruits of years recommendations on Women’s Health in the of research compiled by Commission representa- Mountains. tives from UIAA member associations worldwide.

Several MedCom members joined the UIAA Translated into 13 languages they are a valuable Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC) Taskforce. The resource which can be shared through member

association communication channels. This exper- information on UIAA activities, to share best MedCom’s third working group has its eyes on tise provides a broad range of mountain users – practices and to debate some of the topical organising a training course alongside the 2022 gap year travellers, novice climbers, experienced mountaineering questions of the day. Hefti and annual meeting in South Africa. While the aim is 31 mountaineers and those with specific medical MedCom colleague Buddha Basnyat attended to educate local and national doctors in (high) al- considerations – with potentially life-saving in- all CCC Taskforce meetings contributing through titude medicine, expanding MedCom’s reach to formation. Furthermore, the UIAA International their experiences in Switzerland and Nepal re- Africa supports the UIAA’s overall strategic goal Medical & high- Diploma in Mountain Medicine helps improve spectively. Their advice on outdoor activities of increasing membership on the African conti- altitude advice papers knowledge and increase expertise amongst throughout the pandemic and the prospects of nent, serving its members particularly through medical practitioners across the world. UIAA holding in-person meetings was incredibly valua- training instructions and assistance in areas of members are reminded to reach out to UIAA ble and sought-after. need. MedCom with requests or topics they wish to be Furthermore, MedCom continues to update and 13 covered. translate its existing recommendation papers.

PROJECTS While the Commission has a close contact with the UIAA Office, it is of great importance that the Different • International Diploma of Mountain Medicine UIAA supports MedCom more closely. In that re- languages • As part of the International Diploma gard, it is looking forward to discussing work and Administrative Group, three of the UIAA strategic priorities with the Executive Board work- MedCom members work with ICAR ing group overseeing commissions. (International Commission for Alpine Rescue) MedCom and the International 150 Society of Mountain Medicine (ISMM) to ad- minister the international UIAA/ ICAR/ISMM Diploma of Mountain Medicine. ©UIAA/Jason Williams

High-altitude papers • Library of recommendations in total • Continuous updating of recommendation 2021 THE YEAR AHEAD – PRIORITIES and advice papers Three larger MedCom project groups were • Translation of papers still in progress formed in mid-2020 to tackle important topics. • Educative video(s) on expedition related The first of which will work towards producing an topics in progress. informative video on water treatment methods when in the mountains or on an expedition. In collaboration with a professional creative team, content ©Grajales Expeditions EVENTS ATTENDED IN 2020 and style have been defined. The video will be Urs Hefti attended the four virtual between available to UIAA members and on the UIAA Commission Presidents and the Executive Board, website in late March. following each of the 2020 online meetings of A second working group, led by female members the UIAA Management Committee. During the of the commission together with external experts, UIAA General Assembly, is focusing on the revision of two particular pa- Hefti joined a moderated panel discussion, pers, namely Vol.12 Women Going to Altitude ©UIAA/Monica Dalmasso designed both to provide members with and Vol.14 Contraception at Altitude.

49 UIAA MEDICAL COMMISSION VIDEO SERIES From early 2021 the UIAA MedCom will launch a series of short videos to promote advice provided in its high-altitude papers.

To support the production of future videos, a dedicated donation area has been made available.

https://www.theuiaa.org/donate Commissions

Videos of Interest

As confirmed by the UIAA Management CORRESPONDING MEMBERS Promo: UIAA Mountain Medicine Advice Papers Committee - October 2020 Giancelso AGAZZI, Italy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZzmU0cQ8psA Marija ANDJELKOVIC, Serbia, MEMBERS (UIAA Anti-Doping Commission)

Urs HEFTI, Switzerland (SAC), President Corrado ANGELINI, Italy

Thomas KUEPPER, Germany (DAV), Buddha BASNYAT, Nepal (HRA) Vice President Water Disinfection in the Mountains Hermann BRUGGER, ISMM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OX06NpPIMxQ&t=13s Erhan ALEMDAR, Turkey (TDF) Nenad DIKIC, Serbia, AliReza BEHPOUR, Iran (IMSCF) (UIAA Anti-Doping Commission)

Pierre BOUZAT, France (FFCAM) Tomaz GOZLER, Slovenia (PZS)

Sundeep DILLON, UK (BMC) Matthias HILTY, Switzerland

Anil GURTOO, India (IMF) Lenka HORAKOVA, Czech Republic (CMF) Dominique JEAN, France (ISMM) David HILLEBRANDT, UK (BMC) Alexandra KOUKOUTSI, Greece Johan HOLMGREN, Sweden (SKF) Hidenori KANAZAWA, Japan (DiMM Japan) Alzamani IDROSE, Malaysia (NAA) Shigeru MASUYAMA, Japan (JMSCA) Norihiro KAMIKOMAKI, Japan (JMSCA) Heleen MEIJER, Netherlands (NKBV) Kaste MATEIKAITE, Lithuania (LMA) Audry MORRISON, UK (BMC) John MCCALL, Canada (ACC) Peter PAAL, Austria (OGAHM) Patrick PETERS, Luxembourg (FLERA) Miguel REIS E SILVA, Portugal (FCMP) George RODWAY, USA (AAC) Alison ROSIER, Australia/Switzerland Giulio Sergio ROI, Italy (ISF) Ivan ROTMAN, Czech Republic (CMF) Report by Sonam Zangbu SHERPA, Nepal (NMA) Steve ROY, Canada (FQME)

Rianne VAN DE SPEK, Netherlands (NKBV) Jalaladdin SHAHBAZI, Iran Urs Hefti Marieke VAN VESSEM, Netherlands (NKBV) Volker SCHOEFFL, Germany (DAV) Medical Commission President Eduardo Garrigos VINHAES, Brazil (CBME) Daniel TREVENA, Australia (NZAC)

Emma Linnea WICHARDT, Norway (NTK) Eckart VON DELFT, South Africa (MCSA)

51 pandemic. Indeed, the Commission decided to Mountaineering postpone or cancel projects whose implementation would have required physical participation MountCom is one of the largest and shifted its focus to those more suitable for Commissions within the UIAA, online work. and houses the Training Panel, the Legal Experts Working Group and, Commission Meetings more recently the Access Working The last in-person Commission meeting was Group, formerly an independent held on 5-6 September 2019 in Hong Kong. Commission. Most of the Commission The meeting planned for April 2020 in Calgary, activities are now carried out within Canada became an online session. The nature of most activities/projects of the Commission are these three groups. such that they can be conducted online only to some extent. Therefore, in the online meeting the At its 2019 Spring meeting held in Novi Sad, Commission decided that: Serbia, Commission members expressed their intention to run some projects. The following pro- • The Mountain Huts directory project shall be jects options were identified for 2020: postponed, possibly cancelled.

• Mountain Huts directory. Based on the • Only one new project will start, called Alpine Club of Canada’s online directory and “Importance of New Routes & Style”. This booking system for its mountain huts, the could eventually lead to a possible update Commission plans to investigate the option of the Tyrol Declaration/Mountain Code with of making this available globally. the involvement of world-class mountain- • ISO 21101 certification for federations and eers and climbers. huts. • A huge amount of data and information • Instagram feed showcasing best practices. has been collected in the accident statistic • Finalisation of the Accident statistics project, project. This shall be analysed and put into presentation of results. a presentable form in the first half of 2021. • The Commission is also working on a ‘facelift’ of some of the UIAA’s historical declarations including the Tyrol Declaration. The TRAINING PANEL idea is to adapt some of these ethics-based declarations to the realities of the present Mission Statement day. Access for mountain lovers throughout the world Several factors necessitated the re-thinking of the to safe and inspiring leadership and instruction; activities of the Commission, such as the budget increasing safety, enjoyment and fulfilment in the assigned for 2020, the integration of the former world’s wildest places. The Training Panel (TP) Access Commission as a Working Group and, supports this by helping federations to empower as it became clear in March 2020, the Covid-19 their trainers and leaders.

2) Personal Skills (Good Practice) Training. sections on GPS, and trad climbing (at the • The Petzl Foundation has continued to All other services and resources are second- request of Reinhold Messner and the late support development of the Alpine Summer ary to this concept, which the TP believes will Doug Scott). The weather section had been Skills Handbook, however sponsorship for revolutionise training worldwide. In some completely re-written by mountain meteorol- field projects has been postponed. ogists. A completely new volume on canyon- ways this scheme can be likened to the PADI • Meetings were held with an Indian national scheme for diving, except that the UIAA ing is almost complete. The Handbook de- skills training charity to use the UIAA skills scheme empowers member organisations velopment has been sponsored by The Petzl training certification, however the Covid-19 and enhances rather than competes with ex- Foundation. A full report on its progress can pandemic has curtailed this potential isting training programmes. The TP has suc- be found in the digital magazine published for development. cessfully piloted courses using the syllabus the 2020 UIAA General Assembly. and structure in several countries - including • Discussions are underway with Vertical-Life 4) Approval of online videos. The Training some countries that do not yet have any club about developing a global system for crag ©Steve Long Panel works in partnership with the Safety or federation structure but do have a grow- cleaning and re-equipping. Commission to ensure that UIAA-approved ing interest in mountain activities. This is a • Red Wolf remains poised to begin market- videos provide reliable and up-to-date learn- service that only instructors holding UIAA ing/PR work once the database goes live. Executive Summary of 2020 ing materials for individuals and trainers. accredited qualifications can deliver. Piloted Due to Covid-19, following the early training in Ladakh, Mongolia, Indonesia, Kenya, Projects 2021 The Year Ahead project in Maharashtra, India all other physical Maharashtra/India. The leadership training project in Maharashtra • Introduction of a logo for Training meetings and projects were cancelled. The main CHKMCU (Hong Kong) has announced (Sahyadri) was timed to link up with the AGM Accreditation and certified skills training development work has been on the database that it intends to use this licensing concept of the Himalayan Club, allowing for subsequent to avoid confusion over UIAA membership and the new edition of the Alpine Summer Skills for all its Mountain Skills 1 and 2 courses, meetings with the president of both this club and branding on cards and certificates. Handbook. with other activities to follow suit pending the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. Twenty- accreditation. The UK has indicated an • Ongoing projects in Ladakh, Mongolia, Work is still ongoing but has been completed six students completed the course, all regular intention to join the UIAA scheme for its rock Kenya. Hopefully also Maharashtra + ex- and tested for one award category - summer hiking leaders. As usual the trainers comprised skills training programme. It is also avail- pansion to neighbouring state(s) subject to walking – so the main work remaining is replica- an international team. The course focused on trek able for delivery by IFMGA (International post-Covid 19 finances. tion. The system will be launched early in 2021. leadership but included some rescue skills and Federation of Mountain Guides Associations) • Revalidation of existing accreditations awareness training in other adventurous moun- Several new requests for accreditation have been and UIMLA (Union of International Mountain tain activities. • Marketing drive for federation accreditations received and are ongoing. Leader Associations) members with suitable and individual climber registrations pedagogic experience/qualification – a short The ongoing projects in Ladakh, Mongolia, Kenya • Publishing the second edition of English lan- Support for UIAA Members online induction is proposed in addition are all postponed but their funding remains in guage Summer Handbook, with worldwide to seminars. Member organisations can place. 1) Accreditation of Leadership and distribution centres. choose whether to demand membership as Instructional qualifications. UIAA accred- Partnerships • Implementation of Personal Skills/good itation demonstrates that a qualification a requirement for certification. practice training delivery by member organi- is fit for purpose within its stated scope 3) UIAA Summer Skills Alpine Handbook. • Regular dialogue and exchange with Safety sations’ instructors. and regional remit. A vigorous induction A second edition of the French edition has Commission, also with Mountain Protection and inspection process ensures that the been produced and the English language and Youth Commissions. • Development of more online training videos programme meets or exceeds an agreed versions awaits new foreword sections • The leadership training project in and other resources. standard. Current accreditations are shown for print. This includes a new section on Maharashtra was sponsored by Allied Safety, • Seminar and new training project in Saudi online on a world map. avalanches, and substantial additions to the a company based in Mumbai. Arabia when international flights re-open.

53 supporting climbing and mountaineering at ACCESS WORKING GROUP a national level

The mission of the UIAA Access Working Group • Tatra National Park, Slovakia, the proposed is to promote the idea of responsible free access regulation was stopped after motions sup- to mountains environments to mountain users ported by the UIAA. worldwide. Annual Commission Meeting The UIAA Access Working Group is also reactive to requests for action and assistance by UIAA The Access WG had its 33rd annual meeting by member federations, especially to requests by video conference at the end of May. new member federations. The WG looked at:

Executive Summary of 2019-2020 • Restrictions for mountaineering in the time • Support for 2019 X Anniversary of PanAm of Covid-19 Access, the organisation that defends free • Key actions for Access WG: access to climbing and mountaineering - Knowledge transfer (from large and areas in South America supporting local experienced member federations to Tatra Mountains ©Remy Duding communities. ©Stock Library others in need and having less capacity Activities currently focused in: to tackle access issue) - Argentina (climbing area of Arenales) - To provide extensive access regulation - Brazil, project to support climbing in the information: different ranges, different area of Rio regulations, different actions developed. - Chile, legislative proposal to support - To defend the interest of responsible mountaineering and climbing access strongly as request of federation members (knowledge transfer, concrete • Argentina information about similar problems, web Purchase: Alpine Handbook A law to promote mountaineering passed and public support). the first step, it has been approval by the To purchase the English language dig- Chamber of Deputies. The project is waiting Support for UIAA Members ital version of the UIAA Alpine Skills for approval in the National Senate to be Handbook (including a free update to The Access WG members are experts in man- implemented. Provincial Laws were created the forthcoming 3rd edition), click here. aging information about restrictions imposed in three mountain provinces: on mountaineering activities, whether govern- - San Luis (approved) mental, environmental or due to land ownership disputes. This knowledge can be used by - Catamarca (approved) all members to help resolve restriction issues in - Salta, submitted their territories. Please contact the UIAA Access The proposed Argentine law to promote WG should you wish to harness the UIAA network mountaineering is a very good example of to raise awareness about issues in your regions. Commissions

Please note that the “LEGAL EXPERTS WORKING GROUP” on page 35 also forms part of the Mountaineering Commission.

As confirmed by the UIAA Management Jiri VOGEL, Czech Republic (CMF) Mehdi SOHEIL FARID, Iran (IMSCF) Committee - October 2020 Phil WICKENS, UK (BMC) Membership Frederick YU & Shirman SO, Corresponding Members Peter FARKAS, Hungary (MHSSz), CHKMCU (Hong Kong) Hussein BAGIROV, Azerbaijan (WCU) President Jack BERGIN, Ireland (MI) Pavlos GEORGIADES, Corresponding Members Cyprus (CMCF), Vice President Nelson BRUGGER, Brazil (CBME) Ahmed AUPAR, Bangladesh (BMF) Mike GALBRAITH, Esteban DEGREGORI, Argentina (FASA) Canada (ACC), Secretary Francis CHARLESWORTH, New Zealand (NZAC) Hamidreza IZADI, Iran (IMSCF) Andreas ANDREOU, Cyprus (CMCF) Pedro CUICA, Portugal (FCMP) Hitoshi ONODERA, Japan (JMSCA) Chiaki AOYAMA, Japan (JMA) Klara DVORAKOVA-HAVLIKOVA, Boyan PETROV, Bulgaria (BCMF) Reena DHARMSHAKTU, India (IMF) Czech Republic (CMLA) Joao Paulo QUEIROS, Portugal (FCMP) Debraj DUTTA, India (IMF) Mahmood HASHEMI, Iran (IMSCF) Richard SHERRY, Xabier EZEIZABARRENA, Spain (EMF) Hamed HAVALEHDAR NEJAD, South Africa (MCSA) Ron FUNDERBURKE, USA (AAC) Iran (IMSCF) Kul Bahdur GURUNG, Nepal (NMA) Seyed Mahmoud MIRNOURI Expeditions LANGEROUDI, Iran (IMSCF) Reports by Nona KALADADZE, Georgia (MCAG) Mahmood HASHEMI, Iran (IMSCF) Thomas SPOTTL, Austria (ISA) Aleksandar KIRKOVSKI, Ulrike KIEFER, South Africa (MCSA) North Macedonia (FPSM) Peter Farkas Access Working Group Patrick LAMARQUE, France (FFCAM) Training Panel Mountaineering Juan JESUS IBANEZ MARTIN, Spain Steve LONG, UK (BMC) Commission President (FEDME), President Steve LONG, United Kingdom (BMC), Jordi MAGRINA GUELL, Spain (FEEC) President Lode BECKERS, Belgium (CMBEL) Katarina MANOVSKI, Serbia (PSS) Andreas ANDREOU, Cyprus (CMCF) Steve Long Hank HWANG, Chinese Taipei (CTMA) Arianit NIKCI, Kosovo (KAMF) Ron FUNDERBURKE, USA (AAC) Training Panel President Sudhir KRISHNANKUTTY, India (IMF) Laza POPARA, Serbia (PSS) Patrick LAMARQUE, France (FFCAM) Milosz JODLOWSKI, Poland (PZA) Juan Jesús Ibáñez Martin Laura SAMSO, Spain (FEDME) Jordi MAGRINA GUELL, Spain (FEEC) Goran NIKOLOSKI, Access Working Group President Matjas SERKEZI, Slovenia (PZS) North Macedonia (FPSM) Matjas SERKEZI, Slovenia (PZS)

55 Ice Climbing 2019-2020 season The Commission held a review of the positives (high quality of competitions, improvements on MISSION STATEMENT previous seasons) and negatives (too few competitions, issues with cancelled events) of the 2019- • Create a fun and fair, sustainable and spec- 2020 season which witnessed three UIAA Ice tacular annual UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour Climbing World Cup events, a UIAA Ice Climbing with a focus on the athletes, fans and organ- World Youth Championships and a number of isers - developing each event, every season. continental competitions. • Build a financial structure that creates a sustainable future for the UIAA Ice Climbing General World Tour, as well as allowing the financing • The future direction of the UIAA Ice of the development of the sport following Climbing World Tour was discussed in view the UIAA’s Strategic Plan. of its continued development and the ambi- • Develop the sport of ice climbing in the ar- tion for the sport of competition ice climbing eas of youth inclusion, gender equality and to one day become part of the Olympic accessibility to bridge the gap between the Winter Games competition programme. A mountains and urban environments across working group will be created to take these the winter sporting nations of the world. developments further. • Through its Anti-Doping Commission, the 2019-2020 UIAA is working closely on compliance with UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD TOUR & new WADA regulations coming into force in COMMISSION REVIEW 2021. Due to some late changes to the event calendar, • The Commission agreed to hold more fre- the 2019-2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour quent online meetings to facilitate commu- was a little shorter than originally forecast. The nication and improve the speed of decision one positive aspect of this is that the season was making. completed before the widespread outbreak of • New sub-Commissions and Commission the Covid-19 pandemic. Details on the events Corresponding Members were agreed. held are provided over the coming pages. The Athlete Sub Commission (currently two One of the major new innovations and improve- athletes) will be expanded. ments during the past season was the develop- • A new booking system for pre-season ice ment of a more sophisticated online results sys- climbing training camps will be launched. tem in partnership with Vertical-Life. • A Working Group to further improve the The UIAA Ice Climbing Commission held an on- speed discipline of the sport will be set-up line meeting shortly after the completion of the focussing on the development of more reli- season, reviewing recent progress and defining able timing equipment and better coverage its roadmap ahead. through the UIAA livestream.

2020-2021 season Charter and increase the sport’s eligibility. A SUPPORT FOR UIAA MEMBERS THE FUTURE return to the icier structures of World Cups • Plans for the 2020-2021 season have to take in the past, while retaining the technical into account the ever changing situation The UIAA Ice Climbing Commission has plans • The target is to stage five to six UIAA Ice difficulty developed in recent modern route with Covid-19. The Commission released its to reach out to UIAA member federations in the Climbing World Cups plus a UIAA Ice Climbing World Youth Championships every setting is the target. first 2020-21 calendar in the summer, before future as part of its new strategy to offer further year, with the senior World Championship • Continued development of the registra- confirming a shorter programme towards support not only to countries where ice climb- every other year, alongside a full calendar of tion, results and regulation and livestream the end of the year. The final decision was ing is well established but also to help federa- Continental Cups. production systems will increase efficiency, that no UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour would tions in developing competitive ice climbing. professionalism and the look and feel of all be held with the UIAA instead supporting • There is also a focus on developing The Commission is currently working with mem- events for all stakeholders and maximise continental level and regional competitions. Continental Cups in Asia and North America bers in Spain and Catalunya in this regard. The and the established European Cups encour- athlete and spectator enjoyment. When publishing the final calendar the Commission would also like to widen its re- aged to develop youth events to be run in Commission also provided details on the • Continue to grow the worldwide reach of the conjunction with the existing events. Covid-19 protocols for all of its events. sources and skillsets by sourcing support from UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour with increase member federations in order to allow for moti- • Further develop training camps and youth in online viewership and the introduction of • Sustainability was a key topic: UIAA Event events to get both of these established on global TV distribution through many national Organisers will in the future need to adhere vated individuals to get more involved with the all three continents on an annual basis, with television networks. to new guidelines to ensure competitions Commission and push forward its development youth events being run in conjunction with targets for the future of the sport. • Continue to aim for multiple minor im- meant more stringent sustainability criteria. the senior Continental Cups. provements at every event on the UIAA Ice • The list of Officials for then 2020/2021 sea- • Further collaboration with ice festivals and Climbing World Tour to add up to the person was agreed. urban events will continue in development. ception of major gains – all led via feedback • An increase in competition prize money was • Increase the use of ice on lead structures from athletes and fans through surveys and agreed. in order to conform to the Winter Olympic market research.

ICE CLIMBING WORLD CUP - OVERALL CHAMPIONS LEAD SPEED

MARIA TOLOKONINA LOUNA LADEVANT MARIA TOLOKONINA ANTON NEMOV (RUSSIA) (FRANCE) (RUSSIA) (RUSSIA) 57 Designed for the Impossible. Trusted by the Experts. Graham Zimmerman | 2020 Piolet d’Or Recipient Outdoor Research Ambassador Ouray, CO y Oura Outdoor Research Ambassador Graham Zimmerman|2020Piole t d’OrRecipient T Designed for the Impo rusted by theExperts. , CO s sibl e . 1 4 1 2 3 9

2019/2020 Asian Cup UIAA IceClimbing European Cups UIAA IceClimbing Youth Championships UIAA IceClimbing World Championships UIAA IceClimbingContinental World Cups UIAA IceClimbing Countries 823 152 24 above plusIran and Switzerland Korea, France +podiumsfrom the World Cupwinnersfrom Russia, Distribution Increased Livestream Livestream High Quality level represented at World Cup National federations Total Event entries World Cupathletes 2019/20 UIAA ICECLIMBING 1.2M 2.3M 201k 2020 SEASON STATISTICS homes globally. networks reaching 690 million to Terrestrialdistribution New TV Swiss-Sport& TV. partners –Extreme Channel, EpicTV, Dedicated mediadistribution 2.3 millionpeople Total reach nearly of unique liveviewsperevent 201k Average of allvideocontent views of 1.2 millionunique EXECUTIVE SUMMARY C ommissions 59 2020 UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD CUPS l Youtube CHANGCHUN CITY, CHINA 3-5 January Lead & Speed 2019/20 • 466,300 unique views up by 45% on 2019 CHEONGSONG, SOUTH KOREA 10-12 January Lead & Speed • 7,953 subscribers up by 1,600 from 2019 UIAA ICE • Watch time – 45.6k hours SAAS-FEE, SWITZERLAND 23-25 January Lead & Speed CLIMBING • Impressions - 4.6 million • Average watch time – 5.52 minutes

2020 UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD YOUTH CHAMPIONSHIPS • Top audience – USA, Germany, France, WORLD Canada, UK 6-8 March TOUR KIROV, RUSSIA Lead & Speed • 86% views from non-subscribers • 24-34 years largest demographic CALENDAR • Top viewed playlist: Saas-Fee 2019/20 UIAA ICE CLIMBING CONTINENTAL CUPS

& SOCIAL BERN, SWITZERLAND 23 November 2019 Lead c Facebook • 3,000 new followers gained MEDIA BRNO, CZECH REPUBLIC 30 November 2019 Lead (from 38,000 to 41,000) • Reach for season posts 2.45 million (including 7 December 2019 STATISTICS ZILINA, SLOVAKIA Lead non video content) • 524,000 total video views TEHRAN, IRAN 8 February 2020 Lead & Speed • 194.5k minutes viewed OULU, FINLAND 29 February 2020 Lead

f Instagram Livestreaming & Video Stats • 5,363 followers as of the end of March • 22,000 views of all content TOTAL LIVESTREAM & EVENT TOTAL IMPRESSIONS* TOP THREE CLIP VIEWS • Followers increased by 100% on from the end of last season. CHANGCHUN CITY 130,409 356,000

CHEONGSONG 223,417 717,000 d Twitter

SAAS-FEE 244,961 864,000 • 121,365 impressions on UIAA Tweets about World Cup Tour KIROV 36,997 102,000

BERN & OULU 46,178 52,100 h Flickr • 1,953 photos posted TOTAL 681,962 1,770,700 • Combined photo views 565,000 Commissions

UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour LIVESTREAM & TELEVISION All World Cup semi-finals and finals in both lead and speed were livestreamed on the UIAA Facebook and YouTube, with As confirmed by the UIAA Management new graphics and improved on-screen information, by a Committee - October 2020 single production company which permitted the production of many features and interviews. Full Members Carlos TEIXEIRA, Portugal (FCMP), President New for 2020 the UIAA worked with UK based media company Boulder Creek Pavel SHABALIN, Russia (RMF), Vice President to negotiate license agreements with global TV networks for both live and David DORNIAN, Canada (AAC) highlights of all the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cups. This season’s 52-minute Mohammad Amin HAVALEHDAR NEJAD, highlight shows were produced for all World Cups. Iran (IMSCF) Byeong GOO KIM, Korea (KAF) Nadezhda LAUNITS, Russia (RMF) Alex PAUN, Romania (CAR) Ziga STER, Slovenia (PZS) Luc THIBAL, France (FFCAM)

Corresponding Members Nejat AKINCI, Turkey (TDF) Report by Benjamin GIGER, Liechtenstein (LAV) Min GYUHYOUNG, Korea (KAF) The entire archive of UIAA livestreams Carlos Teixeira Shu LI, China (CMA) President, UIAA Ice and ice climbing features can be Andrej PECJAK, Slovenia (PZS) Climbing Commission viewed on the UIAA YouTube channel Kestutis SKRUPSKELIS, Lithuania (LMA) l Rob Adie Masoud ZEYNALI, Iran (IMSCF) UIAA Sports Events uiaamountainschannel Coordinator Athletes [email protected] Nikolay PRIMEROV, Russia (RMF) Kendra STRITCH, United States (AAC)

61 Anti-Doping

The UIAA promotes Clean Climbing by adopting and implementing the World Anti-Doping Code. The UIAA Anti-Doping Commission (ADC) manages the federation’s anti- doping programme, including in- competition and out-of-competition testing and results management process. In parallel, the UIAA is ©UIAA/ Kaspar Kellerhals responsible for ensuring that all of Education its member associations and athletes The UIAA is one of few international federations respect and comply with all relevant who make it mandatory for athletes to pass an International Standards and all the anti-doping test as part of their competition reg- principles inherent to the World-Anti istration. The online anti-doping online educa- Doping Code, including education tion was created by Commission members – Dr for successful prevention doping in Nenad Dikic (former President) and Dr Marija sport. UIAA contributes to advancing Andjelkovic (current President). More than 200 a clean sport through scientific athletes passed the test in 2020. research and outreach initiatives ADAMS database under the name of Clean Climbing. All UIAA doping control forms/tests are entered into ADAMS (world database of all WADA athletes). This action is essential for recognition by SUMMARY OF 2020 WADA (World Anti-Doping Agency) and IOC.

Annual Commission Meeting ACHIEVEMENTS The annual meeting was scheduled to be held as Doping controls part of the WADA session in Lausanne in March but was cancelled due to Covid-19. The ADC has Anti-doping statistics for the calendar year held regular online meetings in its place. 2020 did not change significantly from the previous report because of the Covid-19 pandem- WADA Code Compliance ic. Sport and doping controls were postponed due to Covid, and the only possible activity was The new WADA Anti-doping Code will be effec- out-of-competition controls for athletes in the tive from 1 January 2021. The ADC dedicated registered testing pool. several months to adopting and coordinating

UIAA anti-doping regulation to WADA require- Participation of Russian athletes 2021: THE YEAR AHEAD ments. It took several online meetings with the The Commission has kept abreast of the situation WADA team to clarify the new changes and how Doping Controls concerning Russian athletes. WADA declared they could be best implemented for the UIAA. Owing to Covid-19, nothing is easy to plan. In- the Russian Anti-Doping Agency (RUSADA) This process was very thorough and involved a competition doping controls will be conducted if as non-compliant with its code last December. lot of resources and time. The UIAA Anti-Doping there is competition. In light of this and in the fu- However, Russia’s ban for state-sponsored dop- Commission is proud to announce that UIAA will ture, WADA will request more out of competition ing offences was subsequently halved. Russian be one of the first international federations to be- doping controls. The UIAA has two athletes in athletes will be able to compete as neutrals in come Code compliant. Switzerland who are part of the test pool for out international competition – either as individuals

of competition monitoring. These controls are and in national teams – so long as they are not

conducted by the Swiss Anti-Doping authority. banned for doping offences.

OUT-OF IN-COMPETITION 2020 URINE TOTAL -COMPETITION URINE URINE SAMPLES SAMPLES

Report by Ice Climbing 16 13 3

Skyrunning 0 0 0 Dr. Marija Andjelkovic President UIAA Anti-Doping Total 16 13 3 Commission

Table: Doping controls in 2020 under UIAA as a testing authority As confirmed by the Management Committee (October 2020)

Further Reading Members Marija ANDJELKOVIC (President), Anti-Doping/ Clean Climbing Serbia (PSS) www.theuiaa.org/anti-doping Nenad DIKIC, Serbia (ISF)

Borja Osés GARCIA, Spain (EMF)

63 • Advising on best practices, technical and Youth other aspects of the events.

All UIAA approved youth events are organised MISSION STATEMENT and undertaken in strict accordance with the regulations and rules governing such events. The Youth Commission (YC) provides safe and exciting opportunities for young people to experience EXECUTIVE SUMMARY OF 2020 the mountains. The Commission The full programme of UIAA Youth Events was encourages not only an individual’s massively stunted this year by Covid-19. One ice technical development in a given climbing youth climbing camp did take place in February in Guillestre, France with over 70 young discipline but also an appreciation participants learning the core skills of ice climb- for the environmental, cultural ing. Due to Covid-19 no further international and ethical aspects of the areas youth events are planned for the foreseeable the UIAA is engaged in. Young future. The Commission hopes to support and people are the future guardians report on national level events in the coming of our wild spaces and it is our months. mission to teach respect for, and understanding of, these places. UIAA ANNUAL COMMISSION MEETING Youth Commission events therefore The Commission met in person in March in have not only a technical focus but Cyprus before the global lockdown. At the also an environmental and cultural spring UIAA Management Committee meeting, emphasis. Pavlos Georgiades succeeded Mark Dennison as Commission President.

One of the main objectives discussed was GLOBAL YOUTH SUMMIT (GYS) the goal of creating greater synergy between The UIAA Youth commission coordinates interna- the YC and the UIAA Training Panel and other tional youth events under the UIAA Global Youth Commissions. The YC plans to develop person- Summit series. As such it is the body responsible al performance standards and certification for for: youngsters attending events.

• Receiving applications from UIAA member More stringent guidelines will be set for the or- federations or other approved bodies to ganisation of events whether run by UIAA mem- organise international youth events. bers or the Commission itself. A greater focus will • Approving applications deemed to be in the be placed on the consistency of events, on teach- interest of youth development, within the ing material and providing a revenue stream UIAA’s Strategic Plan and being organisa- to help fund future youth camps and training tionally and financially viable. courses.

Youth Commission Membership All future UIAA Youth events will be organised • The organiser must be appointed by the SUPPORT FOR UIAA MEMBERS with the following criteria: national federation (who in turn is a member As confirmed by the Management Committee – October 2020 association of the UIAA). As described above the YC is extending its reach • A two-tier system will be adopted for all to work with several new federations in the near events. • Participation fee of €10.00 must be paid to future to support them to give them the skills and the UIAA by all course attendees. Full Members • Events will continue to be categorised as information to organise their first youth camps, local (bottom of the pyramid), national and Pavlos GEORGIADES, and hopefully this will pave the way to allow international (top of the pyramid) Tier B Cyprus (CMCOF), President further integration with other federations in the • Event organisers (UIAA member associa- Events organised by the UIAA Youth Commission. Dainius BABILAS, Lithuania (LMA) future to really expand the number and global tions or organisations endorsed by UIAA Barbara BAJCER, Slovenia (PZS) • Events organised in collaboration by the development of UIAA Youth camps. member associations) must apply by two set UIAA Youth Commission and national feder- Christian BIARD, France (FFCAM) deadlines – February for ‘summer’ events: ations . September for ‘winter’ events 2021 THE YEAR AHEAD Bhaskar DAS, India (IMF) • The YC will design a selection of events • Events are currently on hold due to the Magdalena JANCIKOVA, (national or international) and promote these Once the Covid-19 situation improves global- Covid-19 pandemic. However, member Czech Republic (CMF) to all federations to host. associations can express their interested by ly the main focus of the YC will be to restart its Niki KAROULLA, Cyprus (CMCOF) registering future events via the dedicated • The registrations for each event will be made camps/event programmes. This will be achieved online form. Potential applicants are invited through the dedicated UIAA online form or with the help of member federations and by re- Alexander KLENOV, Russia (RMF) to first read the guidelines (available on through the hosting national federation. invigorating the global youth calendar using Neda MILOSEVIC, Serbia (PSS) request). • UIAA YC and national federation will be the new tier system described in this report with Mrika NIKCI, Kosovo (KMAF) • Recognised events will be published on the responsible for marketing and promoting more new and exciting events around the world UIAA calendar Batsaikhan OCHIRBAT, official . the event. offering great opportunities for young outdoor Mongolia (MNCF) • The hosting federation and the YC will take a enthusiasts. Tier A percentage from the profit of the event. Tiberiu PINTILLE, Romania (CAR) • Events organised by UIAA member associa- • UIAA personal certifications to be granted Mahmud Al RUBIYEATT, tions, as per the current model. for all participants (of personal competence Bangladesh (BMF) • UIAA personal performance certifications to NOT leadership). Vladimir TRPOVSKI, be granted to all participants (of personal North Macedonia (FPSM) competence, not leadership). WORK WITH OTHER COMMISSIONS • A delegate from a minimum of one UIAA Corresponding Members Commission (or other UIAA body) to attend The eventual implementation of the two-tier Edgardo ABREU, Brazil (CBME) the event and support teaching (all expenses approach will give the YC the opportunity to in- inc. teaching fee paid by the organiser). crease the number of UIAA youth camps around Zurab KUTCHAVA, Georgia (MCAG) • Events must comply with the basic princi- the world. The Commission members will be Jordi MAGRINA GUELL, Spain (FEEC) ples as detailed in the Youth Commission contacting several federations who have never Jenny PATERSON, South Africa (MCSA) Guidelines for planning and holding an organised a UIAA youth camp to encourage col- Report by event. laboration. The YC will work with federations who • Additional support will be provided by the have been certified by the UIAA Training Panel so Quick Links Pavlos GEORGIADES commission to the federation organising the their instructors can provide guidance at UIAA UIAA Youth Commission event. youth camps. Youth Commission President

65 International Skyrunning was excellent, while the Asian championships, scheduled for December 2019, were first post- Federation poned due to riots in Hong Kong and then cancelled due to the pandemic. The ISF is the governing authority of skyrunning – mountain running ANTIDOPING TESTS above 2,000m over extremely In 2019 testing was increased to meet the new technical trails. Three disciplines minimums imposed by WADA in cooperation with the UIAA medical delegate. In the last period define the sport and they are not just of the year, in addition to the tests conducted at based on distance but also on vertical the European Championships, urine-blood tests climb and technical difficulty: Sky, were carried out at the final SWS competition. All SkyUltra and Vertical. The ISF has antidoping tests in 2019 were negative. been a Unit Member of the UIAA 2019 ISF CERTIFIED COURSE LABEL since the General Assembly in 2015. In order to identify and differentiate skyrunning from other sports like trail running and mountain ISF PRESIDENT’S REPORT running, both currently under World Athletics, the In 2019, ISF activity was consistent with previ- Certified Course Label project was developed ous years, but 2020 was an all-round disaster: and launched in 2019. It is designed to identify Covid-19 took its toll and prohibited many sport skyrunning courses, link them to the International activities. All ISF events were cancelled by their Skyrunning Federation and to create revenue. organisers. In 2019, the first step was the certification of 50 The second part of this report includes the races of which the ISF already had the technical main points discussed in the new ISF Strategic data, but the objective was to apply the certifica- Plan prepared together with the Management tion globally, with the priority to the more techni- Committee. cal routes and in 2020 the project was expanded.

2019 REPORT REMINDERS 2020 - ISF CURRENT SITUATION The current situation is complex due to the ISF EVENTS Covid-19 pandemic resulting in almost the en- The 2019 Continental Championships were a tire sporting season being cancelled: more than good opportunity to involve new areas like South 80% of the events including both ISF Skyrunning America (Brazil) and North America (Colorado). Youth and World Championships were cancelled In Europe participation in the three disciplines or postponed to 2021.

®iancorless.com / ISF Special Reports

2020 ISF EVENTS 2020 ISF CERTIFIED COURSE LABEL the pandemic, the ISF is focusing on its future to reshape its plans to better adapt to the current The cancellation of many races in 2020 did not Youth Skyrunning World Championships global situation. The new Strategic Plan address- help the expansion of the project. Despite that, es the following areas: After the great success of the 4th edition, the interest is still growing and in 2020 the Vertical 2020 Youth Skyrunning World Championships Kilometers® were included. Further details about 1) Sporting Plan - New Sport Vision after 2020 were cancelled and rescheduled for the same the Certified Course Label. venue in August 2021 in Italy in the hope that 2) Skyrunning Events - Race Calendar & Format by then the international situation will return to In the second year, close to 100 races were 3) ISF Budget - Business Situation & Plan normal. certified (or renewed), thanks to the introduction of new benefits like #MYSKYRACE. 4) ISF Structure & Management to Support All Skyrunning World Championships Actions #MYSKYRACE is a project offering skyrunners of The main event of 2020, the Skyrunning World all levels a unique preview of their own potential 5) ISF Head Office & MC Activities Championships, is rescheduled at the same in a given race – in advance. venue for July 2021 in Spain, open only to offi- 6) Continental Councils, Commissions, cial teams selected by ISF Members. Hopefully The personalised information based on biome- Referees the date and venue will remain as programmed trics helps to calculate a potential race time, to 7) Skyrunning Identity & GAISF and that teams from other continents can travel plan training and nutrition in safety. to Europe. 8) UIAA Position & IOC

2020 Antidoping Tests 2021-2023 ISF STRATEGIC PLAN - 9) ISF Members Position & Statutes PROPOSAL, MAIN POINTS No tests were scheduled in 2020. The activities 10) ISF Certified Course & Procedure will start again in 2021 in collaboration with na- Future ISF activities will be defined in a new 11) ISF License - Card & Global Ranking tional federations, as already happened in Italy, Strategic Plan to be prepared together with the Spain and Portugal. Management Committee. After the first year of 12) Skyrunning Promotion & Member Activities

Report by

Marino Giacometti ISF President

To discover more about the International Skyrunning Federation, please visit: www.skyrunning.com

®iancorless.com / ISF ®iancorless.com / ISF

67 development of rock climbing in their coun- UIAA Rock Climbing try and/or continent. Festival Award • UIAA Safety label certified equipment must be used in any workshop held. • Prominent climbers from that country or OVERVIEW region must participate. • The host events are published and promot- In 2020 and owing to Covid-19 ed on the UIAA website at least two months the panel decision was taken to in advance. postpone the UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award until 2021 in PAST WINNERS © Festival de Boulder de Mar del Plata consultation with Stuart Gray, UIAA (Argentina) 2019 - Suru Boulder Fest (India) Management Committee Oceania recognition for meeting the criteria of the UIAA 2018 - Festival de Boulder de Mar del Plata (Argentina) representative. Rock Climbing Working Group. Each year the fo- - International Climbers’ Festival (United States) cus of the Award switches to a different continent, 2017 to ensure the impact of the UIAA’s commitment - Kalymnos Climbing Festival (Greece) 2021 AWARD 2016 to rock climbing is truly global. Application for the 2020-2021 Award is open. For During the assessment process for the Award, further details please click here. The UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award team is festivals are reviewed, and a shortlist is drawn looking for new recruits to support its work and Applications are invited from: up of those which meet UIAA criteria and support the development of climbing in a particular future projects. Any rock climbing specialists • Australia and New Zealand, islands of the region. It is an opportunity for the UIAA to lend working with UIAA member federations interest- South Pacific, New Guinea, the regions of support in the development of climbing and offer ed in supporting this global project are invited to Polynesia, Melanesia and Micronesia. advice to organisers in terms of safety, sustaina- contact Rob Adie, [email protected] • Southeast Asia: Indonesia, Malaysia, bility and sport. It is also an opportunity to show- Singapore, Philippines, East Timor, Brunei, case diverse climbing styles and the points of the Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar, Thailand and UIAA Climbers’ Manifesto. Vietnam. As part of the application process, the following The UIAA is underrepresented in these countries, criteria applies: despite there being some climbing/mountaineering federations or clubs present and/or world • The festival is organised or approved by a class climbing areas such as in Thailand, Laos or national member federation of the UIAA. Vietnam. Development festival projects may also be recognised where there is no UIAA member Report by About The Award federation present in the country. Since 2015 the UIAA has organised the an- • The festival is held in accordance with UIAA nual UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award. The values. Anne Arran Award is open to climbing festival organisers in • A contribution is made to sustainable UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award Panel

© Minwook Joo is spotlighted. Report, member project individual fromspecific an a Annual 2020 the for new and continent, each For ual members and common trends and talking points. Continental Reports addresses updates from individ- the mountains. the the globalstate of Eachoneof al level. Together these reports offer an insight into to address issues, projects andinterests at aregion- recognised bytheUIAA serveasnetworks helping Committee level. The variouscontinentalbodies tions intheirrespective regions at aManagement take valuableworkinrepresenting thefedera- The UIAA’s Continental Representatives under -

©DavidBirri

GLOBAL STATE OF THE MOUNTAINS • Promote the provision of search and rescue hoped that this will bear fruit in the years to come. Africa services. Currently the MCSA, with over 5,000 members is Asia • Promote the study of mountains and their going from strength-to-strength and is extremely As noted in the 2019 Annual Report, environments and the dissemination of such active within South Africa with 14 sections coun- The Union of Asian Alpine Africa is the smallest continental knowledge. try-wide. A particular focus is the outreach pro- Associations (UAAA, founded in body in terms of membership but may grammes which are aimed at encouraging par- 1994) which leads mountaineering It may be seen that these are entirely congruent be considered to have considerable with the aims of the UIAA. ticipation in mountain activities by disadvantaged and climbing organisations in Asia, potential to develop further as it youth. It is hoped that this will lead to a better un- stands for friendship, development holds almost 17% of the world’s derstanding of the benefits of conservation and and promotion of responsible EVENTS 2020 population and some of the most the concomitant improvement of conditions in the mountaineering activities & climbing iconic mountains in the world are In common with the rest of the world, the disadvantaged areas of the country. This is a long- for all in Asia. located on the continent. Covid-19 pandemic has severely curtailed moun- term project but needs to succeed. tain activities in Africa. A particular casualty has The UAAA respects mountains, climbers and cul- been what has been developing into an annual ture on a global scale aligning with the values of event – a Pan-African meet in a different member MISSION FOR AFRICA the UIAA as well as pledging to help promote country of the CAMC each year. It is hoped that reducing carbon emissions and the International As a mission statement, it is considered valuable this will resume in 2021. Mountain Museum as a centre of mountain cul- to look at the objectives of the Confederation of ture worldwide. African Mountain Clubs (“CAMC”): PARTNERSHIPS • Encourage, promote and develop the It is hoped that the CAMC will enjoy a strong col- EXECUTIVE SUMMARY OF 2020 interests of mountaineers on the African laboration with the UIAA. Currently, the member- continent and act as a forum for African The outbreak of Covid-19 suspended all the ship structure of the UIAA is somewhat problem- mountaineers. international activities of the Asian mountain- atic for African mountain clubs and associations. eering community, including meetings, events, • Encourage and promote amongst African Future developments may well resolve these competitions, outdoor sports, joint expeditions mountaineers the fullest regard for the difficulties. and foreign exchange programmes. There was mountain environment and wilderness The popularity of Africa’s high mountains with no practical progress on the plan which was put values and to initiate and support actions THE YEAR AHEAD – 2021 climbers from other continents is marked and this in place for in 2020. The new website of UAAA towards protecting the natural beauty and will undoubtedly stimulate local climbers if there In common with the rest of the world, the hope was launched at the beginning of 2020 and it wilderness character of mountains and is good co-operation during such visits. Visiting is that the pandemic will be under control and has helped improve communication between to promote their effective conservation climbers are strongly urged to contact local clubs members. management. that the development of mountaineering on the when visiting the countries concerned. African continent can continue. • Organise and facilitate mountaineering on Annual Commission Meeting the African continent where appropriate. Impacted by the Covid-19 pandemic, all an- • Procure and protect real rights in and access FEATURED FEDERATION nual meetings including the Council meeting, Report by to mountains and mountain areas. planned to be held in Japan to celebrate the 60th • Encourage and promote safety and good Mountain Club Of South Africa anniversary of Japan Workers’ Alpine Federation, Greg Moseley practice in all aspects of mountaineering and As the longest serving UIAA member on the and General Assembly meeting, scheduled to be to provide or promote facilities for climbing African continent, the Mountain Club of South Mountain Club of South Africa, hosted by the China Hong Kong Mountaineering and training and instruction. Africa has taken the lead in the CAMC and it is UIAA Management Committee and Climbing Union, were suspended. Online Global State of the Mountains

meetings have been held between members and and Asian Mountain Museum Alliance (AMMA) the annual activity report of the UAAA’s members of the UAAA, communications have been shared is posted on its website, www.theuaaa.org. throughout the UAAA membership.

PROJECTS The UAAA is pursuing a long-term goal of link- ing mountain museums in Asian members and building alliances that promote mountain cultural exchange, artifact preservation and mountain education through museum. As alpinism is recognised as a UNESCO's intangible cultural heritage, mountain museums must express their tangible value. The outbreak of Covid-19 suspended all the practical progress of this project, but online alliance is ongoing.

THE YEAR AHEAD – 2021

FEATURED FEDERATION The agenda for the UAAA’s 2021 meetings which was decided at the GA in 2019 is as follows:

Chinese Mountaineering Association • Council meeting in India by the Indian The Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA) Mountaineering Foundation in May/June organised the Mt. Qomolangma height measure- • General Assembly in Nepal by the Nepal ment project in May 2020 to celebrate the sixtieth Mountaineering Association in November anniversary of the first Chinese summiteer from • Asian Joint Expedition in Karly Tau in the north side of Qomolangma (Everest). Eight climbers (the only ones to do so in 2020) reached the Kazakhstan by the Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation of Kazakhstan summit on 27 May and measured the highest point (calculated as 8,848.86m). • Traditional Rock Climbing Festival in Kazakhstan The CMA also used the opportunity to extend its mountain protection work organising a waste collection project at basecamp in collaboration with Report by the Tibet autonomous region sports bureau. Christine Pae SUPPORT FOR UAAA MEMBERS Korean Alpine Federation General Secretary, UAAA To support the exhibition ‘Let’s talk about moun- UIAA Management Committee tains’ organised by the Swiss Alpine Museum in November, 2020, the Korean Alpine Federation

©K2/Stock Library 71 given strong support to this sport and its federa- Central and South America tions. This has also offered greater visibility to traditional climbing and mountaineering. Today NFs Although Latin America is made up which have both sports are highly considered and of 24 countries, only federations in consulted by governments in strategic decisions Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Costa Rica, with regard to mountain areas and national parks and Guatemala were members of the where climbing is traditionally practiced. This has UIAA in 2020. Mountaineering is also improved government financial support to practiced in all countries and almost NFs in some countries. This economic contribution from governments continues to be the main all of them have national associations source of financing for Latin American NFs. and or mountain and climbing clubs. Mountaineering in Latin America has been af- These national federations, despite being very fected by Covid-19 as in the rest of the world. small, organise a number of mountain activities Governments proceeded very strictly in closing and are witnessing a rise in interest and member- borders and establishing significant internal so- ship each year. The factors in favour of the growth cial isolation within countries. The mountainous of the sport is its greater visibility thanks to the areas of interest on the continent are mostly with- internet and the massive use of social networks in National Parks or protected areas, which have by Latin American mountaineers, especially in- been closed to the public. Likewise, these same creased by the isolation caused by the pandemic. rules have forced the mountain clubs to close There is also a strong increase in mountain tour- their doors without a certain date for reopening. ism among the general population. Due to the Covid-19 lockdown, all national feder- At the same time, this increased connectivity ations suspended almost all their activities from of mountaineers has strengthened the debate February 2020 onwards. Likewise, during 2020 about the problems in the continent’s moun- all the UIAA member countries have developed tain areas. Climbing communities from different Covid-19 protocols to be able to return to activi- countries have come together to grow and devel- ties as soon as the pandemic permitted. op mountaineering, mountain culture, protection of the Andean environment and work for better access to the mountain and climbing sectors. FEATURED FEDERATION

SUMMARY 2020 Federación Argentina de Ski y Andinismo In the last months of 2019 and the beginning of FASA organises mountaineering, sports climb- 2020 there has been an increase in the activities ing, mountain skiing, alpine skiing and snow- of the national mountaineering federations in boarding, so the activity sphere is very diverse, Latin America. More than 60% of these national and its sports are grouped in the Ski Secretariat federations (NFs) are involved in sport climb- and Mountaineering Secretariat, this last one is ing. Owing to its Olympic recognition, National the maximum authority of the mountaineering Olympic Committees and the governments have and climbing in the country.

Argentine mountaineers with modern techniques Education “South Patagonian Ice Field Crossing and the traditional values of mountaineering like Challenge” The CBME works intensively to consolidate a passion for the mountains, respect for their native process of professional qualification of moun- A long-distance crossing of the South Patagonian inhabitants, always seeking sporting excellence tain guides. This year a new revision of the pro- Ice Field, starting at the Jorge Montt Glacier to and the quality of experience over success or the finish at the O'Higgins Glacier. summit itself. Due to the pandemic, the start of gramme was carried out. school activities has been postponed. National Survey Education FASA celebrates its 80th anniversary in 2021. The ENAM (National High Mountain School of During the pandemic, the CBME developed a Chile) conducts numerous mountain training National Survey on Climbing Injuries. This re- courses throughout the year. search aims to better understand the profile of OTHER FEDERATIONS injuries that occur in climbers and the methods COSTA RICA (FECODEM) Access and Conservation issues BRAZIL (CBME) used for their treatment and prevention. In this way, it seeks to have scientific-based proposals Two Andean provinces of Argentina have enact- The Costa Rican Mountaineering and Confederação Brasileira de for the treatment and prevention of injuries. ed provincial mountain access laws, they are San Montanhismo e Escalada Climbing Federation Luis and Catamarca. The Brazilian confederation brings together 36 The federation represents mountaineering, CHILE (FEACH) FASA has worked hard on these aspects through regional federations throughout the country and climbing, skyrunning, hiking and high mountain its Mountaineering Subcommittee and active is one of the most active countries in terms of ac- sports. FECODEM holds the National Cup and participation in the UIAA Access Commission. cess and conservation issues. The activities men- Federación de Andinismo de Chile the National Skyrunning Championship. tioned below took place between October 2019 Despite the pandemic, efforts continue to achieve FEACH also combines its mountain activities and February 2020. With the onset of Covid-19, Access and Conservation issues the final sanction of the "National Mountaineering with competitive sport climbing and skyrun- Promotion Law" which today is approved by the all CBME mountain activities were suspended or In the field of conservation, "Environmental Days" ning competitions. Its structure is made up of Chamber of Deputies and awaits its final sanction postponed. were organised in the pre-Covid period, which environmental, safety and cultural commis- in the Chamber of Senators. consisted of planting native trees in mountainous sions. They have integrated the National High Access and Conservation issues areas of national importance. Mountain School (ENAM). During the Covid-19 Education: Mountain Youth School The national federation together with Pan lockdown, a series of online courses were held American Access, carried out "Respect the moun- Meetings & Education After the success of the first edition the second with very good attendance: Altitude Physiology selection of the mountain youth school, called tains" campaign throughout the year, 15 cleaning During the past year there have been different Seminar, Wilderness First Aid Seminar and "Jóvenes Andinistas," in December 2019. This actions were carried out in different mountain campaigns and training courses: information Mountain Risk Management Seminar. These school selects young climbers from all over the sectors of the country. The first lobbying actions campaign on national anti-doping standards courses are recognised by the Chilean country to carry out school expeditions in differ- were carried out in the National Congress in fa- aimed at mountain sports, mountaineering Olympic Committee and will be held in 2021. ent geographical regions of Argentina. In each of vour of climbing and mountaineering. courses, cartography, orientation and mountain these expeditions they learn about rock climbing, navigation courses. "Aconcagua Challenge” traditional and ice climbing, backcountry skiing, Meetings Expeditions: high altitude mountaineering and general moun- To improve access and conservation, Climbing Ascent of the Polish Glacier by a group of athletes tain techniques. In addition to mountain ethics, Management was carried out in “Serra do Cipó”, who would attempt this traditional high mountain Two FECODEM expeditions were made: Mount environmental protection and mountain culture. which consisted of a field day and discussion of route with the ultimate goal of trying to scale the Kilimanjaro National Expedition and the Mexican The objective is to educate future generations of solutions . Aconcagua South face in 2022. Volcanos Expedition.

73 Skyrunning of climbers to go out to the mountains has gen- The main focuses in 2020 were: erated an incredible expansion of activity on the Europe The Costa Rica Skyrunning Cup and the National • EUMA Erasmus + project progress – internet and social networks, which has created a Skyrunning Championship were held, the latter Improvement of Good Governance of Climbing greater visibility of the sport in society in general. partially interrupted by Covid-19. EXECUTIVE SUMMARY OF 2020 and Mountaineering in Europe Project which The pandemic has also led to greater and better European-based member federations have con- runs from 1 January 2020 until 31 December During the pandemic, and after overcoming a communication between countries and with the tinued to work in the UIAA’s three pillars of sus- 2022. first stage of total suspension of activities, hiking Latin American mountain community. This new • Platforms and statements surrounding and trekking resumed at a local level. In addi- reality will allow the mountain federations of Latin tainability, safety and sport in 2020, though pro- Covid-19 and its impact on climbing and tion, FECODEM carried out the registration of its America to grow more quickly and integrate re- gress has been hampered by Covid-19. moountaineering from European bodies and brand worldwide, updated mountain rules and gionally, with the world and with the UIAA itself. regulations in Costa Rica and has started proce- The UIAA has 40 European country members list- the UIAA. ed on the UIAA website and some observer mem- dures to obtain significant sustainability certifica- The challenges in Latin America for the practice • Report of the Balkan Mountaineering Union tions called "Escencial Costa Rica" and "Bandera of sport are the same: bers with their headquarters based in Europe. and some member federations in support of Azul Ecológica." This report compiles some of the achievements • The great extension of the territory and its continuing mountain and climbing activity, and challenges faced by European federations mountain ranges. particularly for mountain huts, the vulnerable and respective bodies primarily, EUMA. economies of rural and mountain areas. GUATEMALA (FNA) • The inaccessibility of certain areas due to political problems in some countries and / or Federación Nacional de Andinismo de the lack of transport and infrastructure in the ACHIEVEMENTS AND PROJECTS Guatemala most remote regions. This federation, like all national sports federations EUMA 2020 • The shortage of mountaineers and local in Guatemala, is directly funded by the National explorers, guides and mountain instructors. New EUMA staff recruited in 2020 include Dr Sports Ministry. It is formed by ten departmental Andreas Aschaber, General Secretary and Raul associations and has activities of mountaineering, For 2021 the great challenge continues to be the Cazan, Director (Representative in Brussels). sport climbing, speleology and trekking, its most growth of mountaineering in all its areas with new hut database outstanding mountain activities are the Fellowship sporting goals, seeking to push the limit a little Map of Mountain Huts - The contin- Meetings with neighbouring countries. further, while preserving the ethics and tradition ues to develop and this will also be a tool for the results of the ERASMUS+ project. Up until now Awards of mountaineering. This challenge must be faced Austria, France, Germany, Slovenia and Spain from this new opportunity offered by technolo- In February 2020, the "Guatemala Mountain have contributed to this project. New huts are gy and this new upswing of social networks that 2019 Awards" were awarded to the coun- European Union of welcome. This is an evolving project. has impacted and benefited mountaineering so try's most outstanding climbers, which is Mountaineering Associations - EUMA much in 2020. Without doubt, Covid-19 has gen- EUMA will become a full member of European presented in three different categories. erated many changes. This period offers the op- EUMA is an umbrella organisation of European The EBB is the The Awards seek to highlights mountaineering Environmental Bureau (EEB) - portunity to regroup and come back stronger. mountaineering associations from 25 coun- largest network of environmental citizens’ organi- feats and inspire climbers. tries with approximately three million members. sations in Europe. It has over 160 member organ- EUMA strives to include mountaineering in isations in more than 35 countries and represent- European Union priorities as an important facing some 30 million individuals. The EEB tackles 2021: THE YEAR AHEAD Report by tor of quality of life and to be recognised as the Europe’s most pressing environmental problems. https://eeb.org/ The Covid-19 lockdown has caused great chang- Martin Lascano Gonzalez dialogue partner for mountaineering by EU insti- es in mountaineering in the region. However, Federación Argentina de Ski y Andinismo tutions. Please refer to the EUMA leaflet for more Erasmus + Update on EUMA – Improvement of the absence of outdoor activities and the need UIAA Executive Board details on the organisation’s mission. Good Governance of Climbing and Mountaineering in Global State of the Mountains

The first tasks were assigned and the Charles University as EU policy expert in the project was involved with an expert in each working group.

BALKAN MOUNTAINEERING UNION

4-6 September 2020 Molika, Pelister National Park, North Macedonia

The United Nations Development Programme project “Improving management of protected areas” aims to better nature protection and to Wikipedia/User: Liridon /CC BY-SA 4.0 promote sustainable use of natural resources Europe Project while increasing the capacity of management FEATURED FEDERATION authorities of protected areas, local self-govern- The main project objective is to set up and im- ments and Civil Society Organisations (CSOs) to Mountaineering plement the principles for good governance in manage and promote protected areas in a pro- Federation of North Macedonia (FPSM) hiking, mountaineering and climbing sports at fessional and sustainable fashion. The FPSM proved to be a particularly active an the EU level. This objective will be achieved member in 2020: in particular through the establishment of EUMA Active participation in conservation, management and use of natural resources of women will as a credible actor providing good governance in Training of Female Mountain Guides be enabled with the certification of 27 female hiking, mountaineering and climbing sport activ- Certified training of 27 female mountain guides mountain guides according the UIAA training ities and their infrastructure. was held in September 2020 in the Pelister standards. National Park, North Macedonia in the auspices The project will create mechanisms for imple- of the UNDP Project “Improving the management menting good governance principles within of protected areas” INDIVIDUAL MEMBER FEDERATIONS the EUMA itself and through the transfer of Borders between Balkan countries have good governance principles to its members. Mountaineering Council of Ireland always been subject of dispute

• Clear definition of objectives and strategic Irish Peaks is a large-format book, celebrating The FPSM has already established very good plan for EUMA. Ireland’s highest mountains through an inspiring cooperation with mountaineering and climbing collection of 71 hillwalking routes, covering all of federations of Albania and Kosovo, on mountain • Setting up of communication, decision mak- Ireland’s main mountain areas. Mountaineering guide training in order to avoid disagreements ing and implementation structures of the in the marking the border peaks and FPSM will Ireland and Women In Sport are inviting wom- EUMA strategic plan. extend this cooperation by choosing appropriate en of all ages and abilities to take part in future signs and by marking border peaks. • Setting up European ethic codes, recom- editions of the European Week of Sport. The ac- mendations, examples of good practice and tivities will run nationwide, with 20 activities in as standards for selected issues. many locations.

Mont Blanc glacier ©Stock Library 75 Collaboration on the translation of the Pet- On 29 May 2020 the EUMA General Assembly 2021 AND THE YEAR AHEAD zl Handbook “Alpine Skills: Summer” was held online with 23 member federations present with collaborating organisations (BMU Priorities and events: The Mountaineering Federation of North and CAA) and guests Frits Vrijlandt (UIAA), Boris Macedonia (FPSM) has translated the Alpine • Continuing with the Erasmus plus project M. Micic (partner organisation ERA), Marco Onida • Supporting key federation projects Skills: Summer Handbook into Macedonian (EU Commission, Directorate), Michael Maunsell (translator: Katica Garoska Acevska). Meteorology (Ireland Mountaineering), and Niklas Winbom • Supporting European member associations section changes were made with Gligor Mitkovski (Swedish Tourist Association, STF). through the Covid-19 pandemic and tack- from North Macedonia, with the collabora- ling issues which have impacted member- The Club Arc Alpin held its annual meeting in tion of Jure Jerman from Slovenia and Nikolco ship as a whole Petrov from North Macedonia. This is proof of September. At the invitation of the Swiss Alpine how the UIAA can connect people from close Club (SAC), the Presidents (or their representatives) of the CAA member associations met in and faraway countries towards one goal - safe Bern. The main point of discussion on the agen- Report by mountaineering. da was a motion to merge the CAA, which operates throughout the Alps, with the European Anne Arran Mountaineering Association (EUMA). It was de- British Mountaineering Council cided that a working group consisting of repre- UIAA Management Committee Updates on how individual sentatives of both federations should start work by the end of 2020 and examine and prepare this European members tackled the merger by 2023. Covid-19 situation can be found It was also agreed to adopt joint recommenda- on the dedicated UIAA portal. tions on “Safe Snowshoeing” and that the CAA would finance the extension of the existing online reservation system for huts, used by the majori- ty of CAA associations, to include an availability check for multi-day tours. COVID-19 RESPONSE

EUMA shows solidarity for mountain State of the Mountains tourism The Covid-19 pandemic has paralysed mountain Report by the ACC tourism and mountaineering, as well as other Read report activities, and has thus severely affected people who live in and make a living from mountain regions. Read in full here.

MEETINGS 2020 Video by the ACC https://vimeo. 28- 29 January EUMA: Erasmus + project kick-off com/410063941#at=1 meeting held in Prague The project content was presented to the project administration team. ©iStock Global State of the Mountains

Mountains” report. It provides a comprehensive North America view of the threats and opportunities facing the great mountains of Canada and, by extension, The pandemic wrought it’s first blow North America. to the American Alpine Club (AAC) when it’s annual dinner was forced online on 14 March. Since then both the AAC and Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) have hosted virtual gatherings, closed lodging operations and it is still not possible to traverse the border between the two countries.

During the rest of the year, the AAC went through a planned CEO transition. After fifteen years Phil Powers stepped aside and Mitsu Iwasaki took the helm. A long time climber and skier, Mitsu served as the CEO for several other outdoor NGOs before stepping into this role. Among his early actions was the implementation of a new FEATURED MEMBER membership scheme to better meet the needs of all climbers. In the fall of 2020 the AAC creat- Alpine Club of Canada ed “Climb United” to engage the climbing com- The ACC’s annual mountain report highlights the munity in the process of reflection, learning, and changes in Canada’s alpine environment. growth around diversity, equity and inclusion. The State of the Mountains Report is a com- Public policy remains central to the AAC. The mitment by the ACC to provide acces- “Climb the Hill” gathering in Washington D.C. was sible, current, and accurate information held virtually in 2021. The Alpine Club of Canada about the forces that affect Canadian moun- published its second “State of the Mountains” re- tain places, ecosystems, and communities. port. Canadian Peter Muir was elected President

of the UIAA. Phil Powers replaced him as North In 2011, the ACC published the first State of the American representative. Mountains Report, which highlighted the startling The ACC, North America’s largest backcountry impacts of climate change on the alpine environ- hut operator, added the Shadow Lake Lodge to ment of Alberta and British Columbia. its portfolio (a reciprocity agreement on fees remains The 2011 report was motivated by the ACC's in for UIAA members). commitment to summarise and better commu- As covered in the Featured Member area, UIAA nicate an understanding of the environmental members are encouraged to download and read and cultural forces affecting these high places. the second iteration of the ACC’s “State of the The tradition continues with an annual State of

Credit: Pat Morrow. Courtesy of Alpine Club of Canada 77 the Mountains Report produced by the ACC in events. As a result staff have had to be let go In Australia the closure last year of large areas collaboration with mountain researchers, com- Oceania and much normal activity curtailed. Looking past of the Grampians National Park (Gariwerd) to munity members and partner organisations. Covid-19, three interrelated themes continue to climbing (closing some 3,000 routes) was in- Oceania includes Australia, New be the focus of attention by the Oceania climbing itiated by the state Park Service and supported The State of the Mountains Report gives Zealand and the many island states community: by local traditional owners who are concerned Canadians, and all readers alike, the opportuni- scattered across the South Pacific. at claims regarding damage to traditional rock ty to hear the voices of people who have spent The New Zealand Alpine Club Climate Change Impacts art and landscapes by climbers, as well as wider countless hours researching our alpine environ- ownership and control issues. This is one of the Significant glacial recession in New Zealand is ment. The contributors in the report have, in one (NZAC) with 4,500 members is the largest closures of climbing area seen anywhere. impacting physical access to traditional mountain way or another, dedicated their lives to the alpine principal mountaineering club in the Please refer to: https://savegrampiansclimbing.org and have offered their first hand experiences, ex- region, established in 1891 and with regions and changing the time of year in which In New Zealand, a number of well known rock pertise and photographs to tell the stories of how geographical sections in both NZ much climbing is conducted. A dry winter has change in Canadian mountain environments is amplified the issue. crags have closed due to concern at the behav- affecting people and ecosystems. and Australia. There are also many iour and impact of climbers. Local protocols can climbing clubs active at a local or hopefully be established through dialogue and regional level. building trust. The NZAC is increasingly being asked to intervene and contribute to these dis- Report by NZAC operates both high and base huts, deliv- cussions. In New Zealand discussion is often Phil Powers ers instruction at all levels, publishes guidebooks framed by the Treaty of Waitangi founding docu- and on-line route guides, a quarterly magazine ment signed between most Maori and the British American Alpine Club and annual Journal, offers insurance and advo- Crown in 1840, coupled with differing world UIAA Management Committee cates on behalf of climbing with access and other views of the central spiritual role of land. For in- issues. NZAC was a founder member of the UIAA. stance, the very concept of a legislated ”National Park” is now being questioned by some. In several places an innovative legal framework has SUMMARY OF 2020 been established that give a river or land areas ©Shutterstock the same rights in law as a person. Covid-19 In both countries outdoor users are increas- As with much of the world, measures to control Access Challenges ingly having to confront these very real issues, Covid-19 such as lockdowns and tight restrictions with changes in thinking, climbing ethics and on gatherings and domestic travel have severely As reported last year a number of well known rock climbing areas have been closed or threatened behaviours. impacted the ability of Oceania climbers to get with closure in both Australia and New Zealand. into the hills and on the crags. In March interna- There are a variety of reasons but a common Tourism Impacts on tional travel to both New Zealand and Australia thread is traditional owners in both countries in- Mountain Environments was stopped other than for returning nationals creasingly asserting their legal right to manage Covid-19 has put an end, at least in the short and this remained in place for the rest of the year. and control access to their lands, which are often term, to international tourism to New Zealand The financial impact on the NZAC has been se- the very places that attract climbers. and Australia, with dramatic impacts on the lo- vere. Membership fee income has remained These issues are complex, heartfelt and grounded cal tourism industries which focus heavily on steady but there has been a very significant re- in the colonial histories of both countries. There the spectacular natural environments of both duction in revenue from activities such as hut are significant differences between Australia and countries. This collapse in activity and associat- fees, instruction and established fundraising New Zealand. ed financial stress does provide an opportunity Global State of the Mountains

https://climbnz.org.nz provides free information on more than 12,000 routes, both crag and alpine.

In the same vein the regionally based Canterbury Mountaineering Club has scanned its journal, Canterbury Mountaineer 1932-2013 which is freely available at https://www.cmc.net.nz/ mountaineer

2021: THE YEAR AHEAD ©Stock Library The pandemic means much is uncertain and plan- for a “reset” in thinking with hopefully a renewed ning ahead is difficult. It is clear however that our FEATURED FEDERATION commitment by tourist operators to minimis- climbing communities expect organisations like ing environmental impacts. Rampant growth in New Zealand Alpine Club the New Zealand Alpine Club to provide facilities numbers has placed great pressure on fragile such as huts and guidebooks but to also engage The NZAC is regarded as a model for NZ out- environments, an issue which was starting to be door recreation clubs at a time when many es- and advocate on the big issues facing the out- recognised before Covid arrived. As an example, tablished clubs are seeing declines in member- door community - such as access, impacts arising in New Zealand noise pollution from heavy use of ship. However the financial stress as a result of from climate change and the changing views of helicopter and fixed wing aircraft for sightseeing Covid-19 is leading to a re-assessment of how the how mountain environments should be managed has been a major concern in the southern New Club can stabilise and secure its financial base. and for whom. Alongside these challenges is the Zealand glacier region. NZAC had made submis- Impacts on the guiding community have also need to financially stabilise the organisation and sions to the reviews of important National Park been substantial with no international clients and adapt to a world in which some things are going management plans which have now been placed limitations on domestic travel in both Australia to be different. on hold due to changing economics arising from and New Zealand. Many guides have had to seek out alternative employment. Many established The UIAA is the global network for mountaineer- Covid-19, but also as local traditional owners as- events had to be cancelled in 2020. But several ing and climbing. Oceania supports the UIAA sert their right to a greater say in how the land is climbing meets did manage to take place un- using its global reach to advocate selectively for protected and managed. There had been a trend der tight Covid restrictions such as the annual climbers and mountaineers on issues such as ac- in plans towards greater commercial exploitation Remarkables Ice and Mixed festival. cess and protection of mountain environments. of National Parks against their prime purpose Digitisation of the New Zealand Alpine Journal which is the preservation and conservation of (NZAJ) has meant the NZAJ now joins many of unique natural environments. the world’s other leading climbing journals in Report by providing easy, free online access to past issues. Highlights from Individual Members See https://www.nzaj-archive.nz/ STUART GRAY

Despite the interruption caused by Covid, climb- NZAC has a large online database of climbing New Zealand Alpine Club ing continues to grow in popularity. routes in New Zealand. UIAA Management Committee

79 Complete List of UIAA Declarations The UIAA declarations have tackled a number of diverse issues from protection and preservation of the mountain environment to ethical codes aimed at defining values and providing common standards for conduct. Please note a number of these declarations are currently being revised by UIAA Commissions.

2018 UIAA CODE OF ETHICS MOUNTAIN ETHIC DECLARATION Read declaration Read declaration

ARGEOS CHARTER PRESERVATION OF NATURAL ROCK FOR ADVENTURE CLIMBING Read declaration Read declaration

CLIMATE CHANGE THE CLIMBER’S MANIFESTO Read declaration Read declaration

ETHICAL CODE FOR EXPEDITIONS TYROL DECLARATION Read declaration Read declaration

INDOOR CLIMBING WALLS UIAA ENVIRONMENTAL OBJECTIVES AND GUIDELINES Read declaration Read declaration

THE KATHMANDU DECLARATION ON MOUNTAIN ACTIVITIES THE UIAA SUMMIT CHARTER 2002 Read declaration Read declaration NOTES

At its finest moments climbing allows me to step out of ordinary existence into something extraordinary, stripping me of my sense of self-importance.”

Doug Scott, 1941-2020 “ UIAA Honorary Member UIAA - International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation Monbijoustrasse 61 · Postfach · 3000 Bern 14 Tel: +41 31 370 1828 [email protected] www.theuiaa.org

l uiaamountains c theuiaa f uiaamountains h uiaa_mountains d UIAAmountains

Editorial: Peter Bourne Communication Working Group: Lode Beckers, Peter Bourne, Nils Glatthard Design: Jaykay Designs S.C. Photos: Please refer to credits