FCS2-803
Serger Basics Level 1 Marjorie M. Baker, M.S. Extension Associate for Clothing and Textiles
Serging Seams Use the serger to sew seams when: y ergers revolutionized home sewing, making yThe pattern fits or when fit is not a many projects easier and faster. However, the consideration S y serger is not suitable for all sewing tasks. Before ySeam allowances do not need to be pressed open starting a project, carefully think through the yyA stretch seam is needed, such as on a knit fabric necessary steps to decide whether to use a serger, yyA smooth seam is difficult to accomplish with a conventional sewing machine, or a combination a conventional sewing machine of the two (Table 1). Serger Sewing Tips Just as conventional sewing machine models The following tips will help you get the most out offer different features, sergers can come in 2- of your serger. through 10-thread models. You must read and rely on your instruction manual for the specif- yyFit before you sew. ics of your serger. This publication is designed to yyBecause fabric notches are cut off when provide general, supplemental information to help stitching, use an alternative marking method. you use, understand, and enjoy your serger. yyChange pin placement when pinning fabric for sewing. (You cannot sew over pins.) Table 1. Conventional sewing machines yyMatch the color of the left needle or single versus sergers/overlock machines. needle threads to the fabric; other threads may Conventional Serger/Overlock match or blend. Sewing Machine Machine yyRaise the telescoping thread guide to the highest Typically uses one May use 2 to 10 spools position before threading. spool of thread of thread yyLeave the presser foot lowered when starting Requires a bobbin that Has no bobbin; one or contains a lower thread more spool threads feed and stopping the serger. the loopers yyIn most situations, trim at least a “hair’s width” Requires Has one or more knife of the fabric when stitching. manual trimming blades that trim the fabric yyWhen changing threads, clip the thread near the as you sew (cutters) spools and tie on the new thread using an over- Forms a lockstitch Creates a knitlike chaining hand knot. through spool thread process through needle yyMake a mark on the front of the presser foot and bobbin thread that thread(s) that penetrate meet fabric and connect with indicating the needle line. looper thread(s) yyCheck for proper threading before adjusting Can backstitch Cannot backstitch tension. to secure threads yySew at a steady, medium speed. Understanding Your Serger telescoping thread guide There are many models of sergers available, and they include similar features. The following descriptions are for a 3- to 4-thread machine. (Figure 1). Cutting system (knives). Trim the fabric as it is being stitched. spool needle rod y thread yUpper blade—movable or adjustable blade. tensions yyLower blade—part of the dual blade cutting system that remains stationary. May be upper looper adjusted on some machines to change tension stitch width. Differential feed. Not available on all needles lower machines. Helps to prevent puckered upper knife looper tension presser or stretched seams. Can be used to foot gather fabric. fly- upper wheel looper Flywheel. Manually raises and lower lowers the needle(s). knife lower looper
Loopers. Parts of the machine suction cups that help to form the stitch. Figure 1. yyUpper (right) looper—second thread spool from the right. Thread lies on top of the fabric when using a balanced stitch. Tension dial. Located on the front, or face, of the yyLower (left) looper—first thread spool on the machine. Can be a vertical, built-in adjustable dial right. Thread lies on bottom of the fabric when or a knob dial. Adjusts the looseness or tightness using a balanced stitch. of thread (Figures 3a and 3b). Electronic models Needle(s). Carry the thread through the fabric may have adjustments on an LCD touch screen. connecting with the looper threads. All 3-thread machines will have one needle; 4-thread machines can have two needles. Presser foot. Holds the fabric in sewing position to stitch. The feed dog, the needle plate, and the presser foot work together to move the fabric to Figure 3a. Figure 3b. the cutting system and on to the needle. Stitch finger (stitch former). Located in conjunction with Your serger performs best when it is clean! the presser foot and/or needle After each use of the serger, open the serger plate. Stitches form around/over cover (the one that covers the looper threading the finger and fabric edge at the area). Using a canned air product designed to same time. Completed stitch clean sewing machines and sergers, blow all lint is fed off the back of the finger Figure 2. out of the machine. Apply a drop or two of sewing (Figure 2). machine oil on all accessible moving parts. To help Telescoping thread guides. Devices that guide determine which parts to oil, turn the handwheel the thread from the spool(s) to the tension discs. toward you. Apply oil to any part that moves. Thread guides collapse for storage.
2 Threading the Serger When using the shortcut of tying on threads, cut The recommended sequence for threading is: needle thread(s) at the needle (Figure 7) and gently hold and guide the threads from the needle(s) and 1. Upper looper then the looper(s) until the thread knot is through 2. Lower looper the loopers. If the knot(s) on the 3. Right needle thread(s) will not go through the 4. Left needle tension discs, you may need to release/loosen the tension(s) or Most machines are threaded in this order. remove the thread(s) from the However, it is important to follow the threading tension(s) and pull the threads procedure recommended for your machine so that through the machine. When the the threads are correctly aligned. On most sergers, knot gets to the needle(s), cut if one or more of the loopers become unthreaded, the knot off and re-thread with remove the thread from the eye(s) of the needle(s) new thread(s). Chain off 4 to 5 before re-threading the looper(s). Threading proce- Figure 7. inches before beginning to sew. dures may vary with machine brand and/or model. Sewing Always check your manual before you begin. Place the fabric next to the front of the presser After threading the machine, gently guide the foot and gently feed. (The presser foot does not threads behind and below the presser foot. Lower have to be lifted unless the fabric does not want to the presser foot and run the machine without any feed.) The stitching line forms where the leftmost fabric, creat- needle enters the fabric, not where the knife cuts. ing a chain of When stitching a 5/8-inch seam allowance using stitches at least 4 the left needle and standard width (6 mm), the to 5 inches long knife cuts off 3/8 inch, and a ¼-inch seam allow- (Figure 4). This is ance remains. called “chaining Look for a seam allowance guide close to the Figure 4. off.” presser foot or on the front cover. If the machine does not have any type of seam allowance guide, Changing Serger Threads measure and mark one with tape or some type of If the serger was properly threaded originally, permanent marking (paint, nail polish, etc.). a shortcut can be used to change thread with- out entirely unthreading the machine. Pull extra Pins may be used to hold fabric piec- thread from each of the spools. Clip each thread es together as you sew. However, pins near the spool at the back of the machine (Figure must be removed prior to reaching the 5). Replace the old spools of thread with new ones. cutting blade(s). Another alternative is With corresponding old and new thread ends held to place the pins parallel and to the left together, tie with an overhand knot, as it will not of the stitching line (Figure 8). Position slip or come untied (Figure 6). pins far enough away that they do not come in contact with the presser foot. upper looper thread Figure 8. needle When sewing, adjust the fabric so thread lower looper that at least a “hair’s width” will be cut off by the thread cutting blades (Figure 9). Guide the fabric gen- tly through to the needle(s) to control the seam width. Sew at a steady, medium speed. In a balanced 3-thread serger stitch operation, the needle thread penetrates the fabric, catching Figure 5. Figure 6. both looper threads. The upper looper thread lies
3 on top of the fabric, and the Balanced Tension 3-thread Stitch lower looper thread lies on Looper threads will lock the bottom of the fabric, along the edge of the fab- with the two looper threads ric. The needle thread will knitted together at the edge appear as regular stitching (Figure 9). In a 4-thread on the top side of the serger operation, a second fabric and as a dot of needle thread forms a sec- thread on the underside ond row of stitching. (Figure 10). Figure 10. Figure 9. When completing a line of Stitch Width stitching, chain (stitch) off It is sometimes necessary to adjust the serger’s approximately 5 inches. Cut the threads, leaving 2 stitch width. On most machines, the width is inches of chain on the fabric and 3 inches on the changed by moving the cutting knife. For narrow- needle.
Understanding Tension Table 2. Tension-related solutions. Just as tension is important when using Situation Solution a conventional sewing machine, it is also Too much Tighten the needle important when sewing with a serger. To needle thread thread tension or attain the tension for the desired stitch, on the loosen the lower you must be able to identify each thread’s underside looper thread (Figure 11) tension. origin. An easy way to do this is to thread the machine with a different color thread for each thread path. This makes it easier to identify each thread. If the tension is not Upper looper Loosen the lower thread is pulled looper tension or correct, check for proper threading before to the under- tighten the upper adjusting the tension dial(s) (Table 2). side rather than looper tension. along the edge of the fabric Hints (Figure 12) yyMove only one dial at a time in small Lower looper Loosen the upper increments. Sew a sample to check thread is pulled looper tension or adjustment. to the top side tighten the lower y of the fabric looper tension. yFor sergers with a tension knob, adjust rather than by turning the knob right or left. (Re- Sew at a slower along the edge yet steady pace. member, “Righty tighty, lefty loosey.”) (Figure 13) y Check for thread yFor sergers with a vertical, built-in dial, caught in a thread move up (+) to tighten; move down (-) to guide. Re-thread. loosen. (Remember, “Up tight to tighten.”) Hiccups (stitch Check for thread yyThe higher the number, the tighter the width is not catching on the tension. consistent along spool and not yyWhen it comes to adjusting serger the seam, reeling off freely. Figure 14) Re-thread if tension, patience and practice make necessary. perfect. Some machines have automatic Remove the net tension that is set depending upon the cover on the spool, selected stitch. as it may hinder the thread flow.
4 er stitches, move the stationary Securing Loose Thread Ends knife blade (lower) in toward Unlike the conventional sewing machine, the the needle. For wider stitches, serger will not backstitch. Although the serger move the blade out or away loops the threads together, they can become loose from the needle. On some and the stitching can pull apart or unravel. Fol- older sergers, the width is ad- lowing are two common techniques to secure justed by using the left needle thread ends. for wide stitches and the right y Hide the chain by needle for narrow stitches yHiding. Figure 15. threading it on a large-eye (Figure 15). or tapestry needle. Slide the needle back at least one-half Hints inch into the previous stitching (Figure 18). Clip any remaining y Figure 18. yUse a wider stitch on heavier fabrics, loosely wo- thread ends. ven fabrics, or fabrics that ravel. Use narrower yyKnotting. Tie a loose knot so width on finer fabrics. y that a straight pin can be slipped yMore looper thread is needed through the center of the loop for wider stitches. You may need (Figure 19). Gently use the pin to to loosen the looper tensions to work the knot down the thread avoid “pokeys,” which are whis- until it lies against the stitching ker-like fabric threads protruding at the edge of the fabric. Pull from the stitching (Figure 16). Figure 19. y the knot tight around the pin yLess looper thread is needed and slip the pin out of the knot for more narrow stitching. You (Figure 20). Place a drop of seam sealant such as may need to tighten the looper Figure 16. Fray Check® or Seam Saver® on the knot (Figure tension(s) to correct. 21). Clip any remaining thread ends.
Stitch Length You must also adjust the stitch length according to the type of fabric, the type of thread, and the serging situation. Stitch length Figure 20. Figure 21. refers to how close the stitches are to one another along the Basic Serger Techniques stitching line (Figure 17). Figure 17. Corners Sewing or serging consists of more than just Hints straight stitching. With practice, obstacles such as corners, curves, and circles can to be negotiated yyThe finer the fabric, the shorter the stitch length. with ease and confidence. yyA longer stitch length requires more looper thread; thus, the looper tensions may need to be Outside corners. Try one of the following two loosened to avoid a tight-looking stitch. methods. y yA shorter stitch length requires less looper yyChaining off. When reaching the end of the thread; thus, the looper tension(s) may need to line of stitching, continue sewing off the fabric, be tightened to avoid a loose-looking stitch. leaving at least 5 inches of chain (2 inches on
5 the fabric and 3 inches on the Inside corners. Many people find these corners needle, Figure 22). easier to make than outside corners. If you are To finish, select one sewing a 5/8-inch seam, use a washable mark- of the methods men- ing pen and mark the machine cutting line (area tioned previously to where the blades will cut) 1 inch on either side of secure the thread the corner. Make a diagonal slash into the corner ends. but not through the markings (Figure 24). Stitch yyContinuous stitching. To turn an until the front edge of the knife touches the cor- outside corner, stitch one stitch past Figure 22. ner. Stop, or you will cut the fabric (Figure 25). the edge of the fabric. Raise the nee- dle and the presser foot. Pull a small amount of slack in the needle thread (Figure 23). Slip stitch- es off the stitch finger and pivot the fabric. Position the needle at the top edge of the fabric the same distance in from the unstitched edge as the previous stitching. Figure 24. Figure 25. Lower the presser foot. Turn the handwheel (flywheel) until the Straighten the corner by pull- needle is ready to touch and go ing the fabric to the left. This will Figure 23. into the fabric. create a V-like fold in the fabric; the stitching edge will be straight. Complete the line of stitching Hints (Figure 26). Figure 26. yy Before starting to stitch, observe where Curves the needle is positioned and where it Not all seams involve straight sewing. Curves will go when the next stitch is taken. are not difficult to handle with a serger when you To do this, position yourself so that you know the proper techniques. can see the needle and fabric from the left side of the machine. Because the yyOutside. Sew slowly. As the fabric approaches needle and presser foot mechanisms are the curved area, gently shift the fabric into and slanted, the needle may not actually be toward the right edge of positioned at the top edge of the fabric. the presser foot to keep If necessary, adjust the fabric so that the stitching line straight the needle is at the top edge as the next (Figure 27). If the curve stitch is taken. is sharp or tight, stop yy If you observe a small loop of thread ad- stitching and shift the jacent to the eye of the needle, too much fabric. Resume stitching, slack was pulled. To correct, gently pull continuing the process the needle thread above the tension dial until the area is complete. until the loop is eliminated. yyInside. Sew slowly. As Figure 27. the fabric approaches the presser foot, straighten the curve of the fabric by moving it gently toward the left. Be careful not to pull the fabric out of shape.
6 Sewing in the Round you reach the pin or sew two or three stitches This process is not only used for sewing a piece over the beginning stitches (Figure 30). of fabric shaped like a circle. It refers to any occa- sion when a line of stitching begins and ends at the same point. These techniques can also be used when repairing a break in the line of stitching (edge finish or seam). yyEdge of fabric. Use the following steps. 1. Pull some slack in the needle Figure 30. thread and raise the presser foot. Slip the stitches off 5. Raise the needle and the presser foot. Pull a the stitch fin- small amount of slack in the needle thread ger. Grasp all (Figure 28). Slip stitches off the stitch finger. threads with Grip the threads and the fabric as close to the your left hand stitching line as possible with your left hand (Figure 28). Figure 28. while rocking the handwheel (flywheel) back 2. With your right hand, rock the handwheel and forth until you have pulled approximately (flywheel) back and forth while pulling the 5 inches of thread (unchained). Cut the thread, threads with your left hand. This will release leaving at least 2 inches on the fabric and the threads individually rather than in a tra- 3 inches on the needle. If possible, pull the ditional chain formation. Pull 3 to 4 inches of threads to the underside; tie knots in each of unchained threads. the two thread tails and hide them at least 3. Place the fabric under the presser foot with ½ inch under stitching. Clip excess threads. the fabric resting against the knife blade. Po- yyNotch out. Use this method when a seam allow- sition the thread on the bottom of the fabric ance needs to be cut off. and to the left of the presser foot. Lower the 1. Cut a 2 inch long notch along the straight edge presser foot and begin sewing, trimming just a to be stitched. The depth of the notch should very small amount be the same as the intended seam allowance to (a “hair”) of the be removed by the cutting blade (Figure 31). fabric. Stop serg- ing just before the knife reaches the beginning stitches foot (Figure 29). Figure 29. Figure 31.
Hint: The presser foot does not allow you to see 2. Place the fabric under the presser foot in the where the stitching started and is going to end. notched-out area with the knife blade resting Place a pin in the fabric and to the left of the press- at the bottom of the notched-out edge. Posi- er foot, perpendicular to the stitching line and two tion the threads on the bottom of the fabric or three stitches below where the stitching began. and to the left of the presser foot. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching. Stop serging when the knife reaches the beginning stitches. 4. Raise the upper knife on your machine, or 3. Follow steps 4 and 5 of “Edge of Fabric” position the fabric so that you do not trim the section above. beginning stitches. Continue to stitch until
7 References and More Information Gail Brown & Pati Palmer, Sewing with Sergers, Palmer/Pletsch Incorporated, 1991,
We gratefully acknowledge permission to use material from the following books: Creative Serging by Pati Palmer, Gail Brown, and Sue Green. Published by Palmer/Pletsch Incorporated, 1987;
Note: Mention or display of a trademark, proprietary product or firm in text or figures does not constitute an endorsement and does not imply approval to the exclusion of other suitable products or firms.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, M. Scott Smith, Director of Cooperative Extension Service, University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Lexing- ton, and Kentucky State University, Frankfort. Copyright © 2007 for materials developed by University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension. This publication may be reproduced in portions or its entirety for educational or nonprofit purposes only. Permitted users shall give credit to the author(s) and include this copyright notice. Publications are also available on the World Wide Web at www.ca.uky.edu. Revised 10-2007