Shanghai Daily Sunday 6 December 2020 people 5 Fourth wave ready to rise and grind Zhu Jing illem Boot is a name deeply associated with coffee, es- pecially , the most Wexpensive variety in the cof- fee world. This year, his second farm in Panama, Finca Sophia, won the Best of Panama competition with an unusual high average score of 95 points. “It also achieved an astounding world record prize at the auction: US$1,300 per pound (0.45 kilograms),” Boot said. Established in 2008 by Boot and his wife Catherine Cadloni, partners Helen Russell and Brooke McDonnell, the Finca Sophia farm starts at 1,900 meters and extends up to 2,150 meters by altitude. Extending the farm took more than 10 years to accomplish because “the higher coffee grows, the slower the ripening of the cherries and the deeper the flavors of the bean.” Boot was born in the Netherlands in 1960 and grew up in Baarn, a small town close to Amsterdam. In 1974, Boot’s fa- ther set up a store with self-designed sample machines (The Golden Coffee Box) on display. A nd it was in this year, at the age of 14, Boot started to learn coffee from his father. “I spent endless hours roasting sam- ples with The Golden Coffee Box. Later Willem Boot (right) inspects freshly harvested Gesha coffee cherries produced at Gesha Village Coffee Estate, . on I learned the craft of roasting in a nearby roastery, wh ich featured a v intage — and as a coffee quality specialist cupper to becoming an award-winning While it may be challenging to en- 12-kilogram German roaster,” he said. allowed him to travel around coffee Geisha producer myself.” tice Western consumers to explore the At that time, Boot’s journey of learn ing producing countries, such as Colombia, The farm continues to win honors, taste of their coffee, Boot believes cof- about coffee flavors produced from dif- Ethiopia, Honduras, Yemen and Panama. such as Good Food awards and a 97 point fee consumption of specialty coffee will ferent origins, began in earnest. However, a visit to Panama in 2004 was a rating by Coffee Review. increase dramatically in China over the In 1989, he moved to San Francisco, life-changing moment for Boot. Four years ago, the Boot couple started a years to come. where he was hired as a coffee roasting Boot participated in the Best of Panama third farm, Finca La Cabra, with partners machine salesman and a trainer for cof- coffee competition as a judge in 2004 John and Lynelle Lawrence in Panama. fee entrepreneurs. where he “tasted the unparalleled flavor “The eight-hectare farm features differ- Notes: The experience inspired him to start of Geisha coffee for the first time.” ent Geisha varieties, such as the Geisha The term “wave of coffee” refers to a Boot Coffee, a consulting and training “I instantly fell in love with this re- Nano variety, which is a natural hybrid period in time or stage in the cof- company for specialty coffee, in 1998. markable variety,” said the 60-year-old, due to the dwarf-like appearance of the fee industry. These waves represent “I became fascinated about the origins who was intrigued by the idea of looking coffee trees,” said Boot, who became a big changes in the industry and the of specialty coffee, about varieties and for the roots of Geisha. “We were able to partner in the Gesha Village Estate in changes in the global culture brought processing styles and about the culture find the probable source in this small Ethiopia, a 400-hectare plantation grow- by coffee itself. of coffee growers and their unique chal- ing different Gesha varieties. forest near the remote town of Gesha The definition and understanding lenges,” he said. in the Bench Maji District of western Like many other industries, coffee of the waves of coffee varies but He studied Spanish, a language spoken Ethiopia.” has been greatly affected by the COVID- basically: in most origin countries in Latin America, Boot decided to grow Geisha out of 19 pandemic, from origin countries to and continued to learn about coffee from his admiration for the special variety. In the consumer level. However, the global First Wave: Coffee became a com- the green bean to the cup. The Dutchman 2006, he bought his first farm, five hect- emergency pushes the coffee world to modity and its consumption grew exponentially. Think about instant also refined his cupping skills. He opened ares of land on the Baru volcano near the transit from the to coffee. a coffee where he researched town of Boquete in Panama. He named it the next. roasting profiles and analyzed flavors Finca La Mula. “The fourth wave of coffee has already Second Wave: Coffee chains like through blind cupping protocols. Geisha trees are delicate and take years started in my opinion,” Boot said. “It is all coffee giant transformed Boot’s consulting company grew fast to adapt to the environment in Panama. about creating direct connections with . Say, -based and he had “a growing portfolio of clients, But patience in the climate was rewarded consumers.” flavored drinks and in-store coffee initially coffee companies throughout in 2014, when Finca La Mula claimed the On one hand, the pandemic leaves beverages. North America and then companies from prestigious Best of Panama competition. people grounded and stores closed but, Third Wave: Coffee starts being around the world.” “It was a memorable experience,” Boot on the other hand, it has contributed to purchased based on its production His training as an economist — he ob- said. “In 10 years, I had been able to the rise of a fourth wave as nano-lot cof- origin and its methods of production. tained a master’s degree in economics turn the tables: from tasting Geisha as a fee roasters, advanced Internet-driven The focus is on the quality of coffee services, and user-friendly brewing beans. You must hear about terms methods have all helped consumers to like specialty coffee by now, right? become their own . “The fourth wave will also enhance the consumer experience because of the highly improved visibility of coffee Tips to taste Geisha from farmers,” Boot said. “Powered by mod- Willem Boot ern technologies, it facilitates farmers 1. Do a side-by-side tasting and and roasters to educate consumers at compare Panamanian La Mula Gei- an unprecedented level. I have the high- sha against Ethiopian Gesha Village est expectations for the Chinese market. coffee. Chinese specialty coffee consumers seem to have an unequivocal interest in 2. Prepare both with a understanding flavor profiles.” Chemex and allow the If you pay close attention, you’ll see brew to cool slightly while it gradually that most Chinese “(they) don’t drink releases its aromas. coffee, they savor their cup of coffee,” 3. Instead of using regular cups, pour he added. “I find this intriguing because the coffee into a wine glass and savor in the country where I grew up (Holland) the liquid gradually. and in the country where I live (the USA), Comment from Boot: “I guarantee you Willem Boot (left) poses for a photo with indigenous smallholder coffee farmers in coffee has evolved into a mainstream that the result will be astounding!” Chiapas, Mexico. — Pictures/Courtesy o Boot Coffee beverage, a utility.”