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Contents at a Glance

Introduction...... 1 Part I: Introducing and Victoria .....7 Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Vancouver and Victoria ...... 9 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Vancouver and Victoria ....17 Chapter 3: Deciding When to Go ...... 23 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Vancouver and Victoria ...... 29 Chapter 4: Managing Your Money ...... 31 Chapter 5: Getting to Vancouver and Victoria ...... 40 Chapter 6: Catering to Special Travel Needs or Interests ...... 49 Chapter 7: Taking Care of the Remaining Details ...... 57 Part III: Vancouver ...... 71 Chapter 8: Arriving and Getting Oriented ...... 73 Chapter 9: Checking In at Vancouver’s Best Hotels ...... 87 Chapter 10: Dining and Snacking in Vancouver ...... 108 Chapter 11: Exploring Vancouver ...... 140 Chapter 12: Shopping the Local Stores ...... 165 Chapter 13: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options ....182 Chapter 14: Going Beyond Vancouver: Three Great Day Trips ...... 190 Chapter 15: Living It Up After Dark: Vancouver’s Nightlife ...... 200 Part IV: Victoria ...... 213 Chapter 16: Arriving and Getting Oriented ...... 215 Chapter 17: Checking In at Victoria’s Best Hotels ...... 224 Chapter 18: Dining and Snacking in Victoria ...... 239 ChapterCOPYRIGHTED 19: Discovering Victoria’s BestMATERIAL Attractions ...... 258 Chapter 20: Shopping the Local Stores ...... 271 Chapter 21: Following an Itinerary: Two Great Options ....280 Chapter 22: Living It Up After the Sun Goes Down: Victoria Nightlife ...... 284 02_836849 ftoc.qxd 6/9/05 6:38 PM Page viii

Part V: The Part of Tens ...... 293 Chapter 23: Ten Things You Can’t Live Without in Vancouver ...... 295 Chapter 24: Ten Things You Can’t Live Without in Victoria ...... 299 Chapter 25: Ten Celebrities You Didn’t Realize Were from the Area ...... 302 Appendix: Quick Concierge ...... 307 Index...... 317 02_836849 ftoc.qxd 6/9/05 6:38 PM Page ix

Maps at a Glance

Greater Vancouver...... 76 Vancouver Accommodations ...... 92 Vancouver Dining and Snacking...... 110 Vancouver Attractions ...... 142 Greater Vancouver Attractions ...... 145 Vancouver Shopping ...... 166 Itinerary #1: Vancouver for Beer Lovers...... 183 Itinerary #3: Vancouver for Nature Lovers...... 187 Exploring Beyond Vancouver...... 193 Vancouver Nightlife ...... 202 Victoria Neighborhoods ...... 219 Victoria’s Best Hotels ...... 225 Victoria Dining and Snacking ...... 241 Victoria Attractions ...... 259 Victoria Shopping ...... 273 Victoria Nightlife ...... 287 02_836849 ftoc.qxd 6/9/05 6:38 PM Page x 02_836849 ftoc.qxd 6/9/05 6:38 PM Page xi

Table of Contents

Introduction...... 1 About This Book ...... 2 Conventions Used in This Book ...... 2 Foolish Assumptions ...... 3 How This Book Is Organized ...... 4 Part I: Introducing Vancouver and Victoria ...... 4 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Vancouver and Victoria ...... 4 Part III: Vancouver ...... 4 Part IV: Victoria ...... 5 Part V: The Part of Tens ...... 5 Icons Used in This Book ...... 5 Where to Go from Here? ...... 6 Part I: Introducing Vancouver and Victoria .....7 Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Vancouver and Victoria ...... 9 Vancouver’s Best ...... 9 Best hotels ...... 9 Best restaurants and food experiences ...... 10 Best attractions ...... 11 Best adventures ...... 12 Best shopping ...... 12 Best escapes ...... 13 Victoria’s Best ...... 13 Best hotels ...... 13 Best restaurants ...... 13 Best teas ...... 14 Best pubs ...... 14 Best attractions ...... 15 Best walks ...... 15 Best shopping ...... 15 Best escapes ...... 16 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Vancouver and Victoria ...... 17 Discovering Vancouver’s Highlights ...... 18 Vancouver history 101 ...... 18 Vancouver’s many cultures: Exploring the mosaic ...... 18 02_836849 ftoc.qxd 6/9/05 6:38 PM Page xii

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Building Blocks: Local architecture ...... 19 Wild Vancouver: Finding the nature of the business ...... 19 Taste of Vancouver: Local cuisine ...... 19 Feeding culture vultures: Arts in Vancouver ...19 Background check: Recommended books ...... 20 Sampling England in Victoria ...... 20 Victoria history 101 ...... 20 Stately estates: Victoria’s architecture ...... 21 Walking about: Victoria on foot ...... 21 Strolling through gardens ...... 21 Turning in Early in Vancouver and Victoria ...... 21 Chapter 3: Deciding When to Go ...... 23 Chasing the Rain Away ...... 23 Figuring Out the Secret of the Seasons ...... 24 Blooming in spring ...... 25 Shining in summer ...... 25 Glowing in autumn ...... 25 Welcoming in winter ...... 26 Getting the Lowdown on Vancouver’s Main Events ...... 26 January/February ...... 26 March/April ...... 26 June ...... 27 July and August ...... 27 September and October ...... 27 Checking Out Victoria’s Main Events ...... 28 June and July ...... 28 August and September ...... 28 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Vancouver and Victoria ...... 29 Chapter 4: Managing Your Money ...... 31 Adding Up the Costs of Your Trip ...... 31 Lodging ...... 31 Transportation ...... 32 Restaurants ...... 33 Attractions ...... 33 Shopping ...... 33 Nightlife ...... 33 Taxes ...... 34 Tips ...... 35 Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun ...... 35 02_836849 ftoc.qxd 6/9/05 6:38 PM Page xiii

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Handling Money ...... 37 Using ATMs and carrying cash ...... 37 Charging ahead with credit cards ...... 38 Toting traveler’s checks ...... 38 Dealing with a Lost or Stolen Wallet ...... 39 Chapter 5: Getting to Vancouver and Victoria ...... 40 Flying to Vancouver and Victoria ...... 40 Finding out which airlines fly here ...... 40 Getting the best deal on your airfare ...... 41 Booking your flight online ...... 42 Arriving by Other Means ...... 43 By train across ...... 43 By train from Seattle ...... 43 By ferry from Washington State ...... 44 By car from Seattle ...... 45 Joining an Escorted Tour ...... 45 Choosing a Package Tour ...... 47 Chapter 6: Catering to Special Travel Needs or Interests ...... 49 Bringing the Brood: Advice for Families ...... 49 Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors ...... 51 Accessing Canada: Resources for Travelers with Disabilities ...... 51 Worldwide resources ...... 51 Vancouver resources and information ...... 52 Victoria resources and information ...... 54 Other Canadian resources ...... 54 Handicapped-accessible attractions ...... 54 Following the Rainbow: Advice for Gay and Lesbian Travelers ...... 55 Local resources ...... 55 Gay and lesbian events ...... 56 Where to eat, stay, and play ...... 56 Chapter 7: Taking Care of the Remaining Details ...... 57 Getting a Passport ...... 57 Applying for a U.S. passport ...... 58 Applying for other passports ...... 58 Navigating Your Way through Passport Control and Customs ...... 59 Crossing into Canada ...... 59 Returning home ...... 60 02_836849 ftoc.qxd 6/9/05 6:38 PM Page xiv

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Renting (Or Not Renting) a Car ...... 60 Ensuring the best deal for yourself ...... 61 Identifying the additional charges ...... 62 Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance ...63 Staying Healthy When You Travel ...... 64 Staying Connected by Cellphone or E-mail ...... 65 Using a cellphone outside the U.S...... 65 Accessing the Internet away from home ...... 66 Keeping Up with Airline Security Measures ...... 68 Part III: Vancouver ...... 71 Chapter 8: Arriving and Getting Oriented ...... 73 Arriving in Vancouver ...... 73 Flying into the airport ...... 73 Getting from the airport to your hotel ...... 74 Driving into town ...... 74 Riding the rails ...... 75 Getting to Know Vancouver’s Neighborhoods ...... 75 West End to the waterfront ...... 75 Yaletown ...... 78 and Chinatown ...... 78 and West Side ...... 78 Commercial Drive ...... 78 North Vancouver ...... 79 Finding Information After You Arrive ...... 79 Getting Around Vancouver ...... 79 By public transportation ...... 79 By AquaBus ferry ...... 84 By foot ...... 84 By taxi ...... 84 By car ...... 85 Chapter 9: Checking In at Vancouver’s Best Hotels ...... 87 Getting to Know Your Options ...... 87 Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate ...... 88 Using a travel agent ...... 88 Booking direct ...... 88 Surfing the Web for hotel deals ...... 89 Reserving the best room ...... 90 Arriving without a Reservation ...... 90 Vancouver’s Best Hotels ...... 91 Runner-up Hotels ...... 104 Index of Accommodations by Neighborhood ...... 105 Index of Accommodations by Price ...... 106 02_836849 ftoc.qxd 6/9/05 6:38 PM Page xv

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Chapter 10: Dining and Snacking in Vancouver ...... 108 Discovering What’s New, What’s Hot, and Who’s in the Kitchen ...... 108 Searching Out Where the Locals Eat ...... 109 Eating Out without Losing Your Shirt: Tips for Cutting Costs ...... 112 Vancouver’s Best Restaurants ...... 114 On the Lighter Side: Snacks and Meals on the Go ....127 Asian invasion ...... 128 Zooropa: European eats ...... 128 Gimme a pizza that pie ...... 129 Burgered and fried ...... 129 Fish and pub grub ...... 130 Grease is the word: The best diners ...... 130 Restaurant rescue for vegetarians ...... 131 The coffee connection ...... 132 Sweets to eat ...... 133 Urban-guerrilla power picnicking ...... 134 Index of Restaurants by Neighborhood ...... 134 Index of Restaurants by Cuisine ...... 136 Index of Restaurants by Price ...... 137 Chapter 11: Exploring Vancouver ...... 140 Discovering Vancouver’s Top Sights from A to Z ....140 Finding More Cool Things to See and Do ...... 151 Kid-pleasing spots ...... 152 Teen-tempting attractions ...... 153 Notable beaches, gardens, and parks ...... 154 Intriguing museums ...... 156 Recreation and spectator sports ...... 157 Art-lovers’ sights ...... 158 Seeing Vancouver by Guided Tour ...... 159 To tour or not to tour? ...... 159 Booking direct ...... 159 Touring Vancouver ...... 160 Taking a special-interest tour ...... 162 Chapter 12: Shopping the Local Stores ...... 165 Surveying the Scene ...... 165 Checking Out the Big Names ...... 169 Going to Market ...... 170 Chinatown markets ...... 170 Public Market ...... 171 Lonsdale Quay Market ...... 172 02_836849 ftoc.qxd 6/9/05 6:38 PM Page xvi

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Robson Public Market ...... 172 Punjabi Market ...... 172 Searching Out the Best Shopping Neighborhoods ...... 173 Downtown ...... 174 Gastown ...... 176 Chinatown ...... 176 Granville Island ...... 177 South Granville ...... 177 Kitsilano and Point Grey ...... 178 Yaletown ...... 180 Index of Stores by Merchandise ...... 180 Chapter 13: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options ...... 182 Itinerary #1: Vancouver for Beer Lovers ...... 182 Itinerary #2: Vancouver as Hollywood North ...... 185 Itinerary #3: Vancouver for Nature Lovers ...... 186 Itinerary #4: Romantic Vancouver ...... 188 Chapter 14: Going Beyond Vancouver: Three Great Day Trips ...... 190 Day Trip #1: The Road to Whistler ...... 190 Getting there ...... 190 Seeing the sights ...... 191 Where to stay ...... 192 Where to dine ...... 194 Day Trip #2: The Sunshine Coast ...... 194 Getting there ...... 194 Seeing the sights ...... 195 Where to stay ...... 195 Where to dine ...... 196 Day Trip #3: Island Hopping ...... 196 Getting started in Nanaimo ...... 196 Gabriola Island ...... 197 Setting out for more island adventure ...... 197 Denman Island ...... 198 Hornby Island ...... 198 Where to stay ...... 198 Where to dine ...... 198 Chapter 15: Living It Up After Dark: Vancouver’s Nightlife ...... 200 Checking Out the Music Scene ...... 200 Shaking your groove thing: The best dance clubs ...... 201 02_836849 ftoc.qxd 6/9/05 6:38 PM Page xvii

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Focusing on the music: The best folk, jazz, and blues clubs ...... 204 Turning up the volume: The best rock-and-roll bars ...... 204 Hanging Out: Vancouver’s Best Bars ...... 205 See-and-be-seen spots ...... 205 English and Irish pubs ...... 206 Neighborhood bars ...... 206 Hip alternative bars ...... 207 Chic bars and lounges ...... 208 Thirst-quenching brewpubs ...... 208 Beer joints ...... 209 Cue-crackin’ poolrooms ...... 209 Laughing the night away: Comedy clubs ...... 210 Stepping out: The gay and lesbian scene ...... 210 Getting Artsy: The Performing Arts ...... 210 Raising the curtain on Vancouver’s theaters ...... 211 Tuning up for Vancouver’s symphony ...... 212 Singing the praises of Vancouver’s opera company ...... 212 Et tutu, Vancouver? Dance in the city ...... 212 Part IV: Victoria ...... 213 Chapter 16: Arriving and Getting Oriented ...... 215 Arriving in Victoria ...... 215 Getting from Vancouver’s airport to your hotel ...... 215 Getting from Victoria’s airport to your hotel ...... 217 Driving to Victoria ...... 217 Getting to Know Victoria’s Neighborhoods ...... 218 Finding Information After You Arrive ...... 220 Getting Around Victoria ...... 221 On foot ...... 221 By bicycle ...... 221 By car ...... 221 By public transportation ...... 222 By taxi ...... 223 Chapter 17: Checking In at Victoria’s Best Hotels ...... 224 Victoria’s Best Hotels from A to Z ...... 224 Runner-up Hotels ...... 235 02_836849 ftoc.qxd 6/9/05 6:38 PM Page xviii

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Index of Accommodations by Neighborhood ...... 236 Index of Accommodations by Price ...... 237 Chapter 18: Dining and Snacking in Victoria .....239 Getting the Dish on the Local Scene ...... 239 Searching Out Where the Locals Eat ...... 240 Victoria’s Best Restaurants ...... 242 On the Lighter Side: Snacks and Meals on the Go ...... 250 The tea experience ...... 250 The cafe connection ...... 251 Burgers, fish, and pub grub ...... 251 Restaurant rescue for vegetarians ...... 252 Sweets to eat ...... 252 Index of Restaurants by Neighborhood ...... 253 Index of Restaurants by Cuisine ...... 254 Index of Restaurants by Price ...... 255 Chapter 19: Discovering Victoria’s Best Attractions ...... 258 Discovering Victoria’s Top Sights from A to Z ...... 258 Finding More Cool Things to See and Do ...... 265 Kid-pleasing spots ...... 265 Teen-tempting attractions ...... 266 Notable parks and gardens ...... 267 Stroll-worthy neighborhoods ...... 268 Seeing Victoria by Guided Tour ...... 268 Touring by foot ...... 269 Touring on wheels: Bus, carriage, pedicab, or limo ...... 269 Going by other means ...... 270 Chapter 20: Shopping the Local Stores ...... 271 Surveying the Scene ...... 271 Checking Out the Big Names ...... 272 Discovering the Best Shopping Neighborhoods .....274 Inner Harbour ...... 274 Government Street ...... 274 Antique Row (Fort Street) ...... 276 Yates and Douglas area ...... 277 Market Square ...... 277 Index of Stores by Merchandise ...... 278 Chapter 21: Following an Itinerary: Two Great Options ...... 280 Itinerary #1: Victoria for Anglophiles ...... 280 Itinerary #2: Victoria for Families ...... 281 02_836849 ftoc.qxd 6/9/05 6:38 PM Page xix

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Chapter 22: Living It Up After the Sun Goes Down: Victoria Nightlife ...... 284 Getting the Beat on the Music Scene ...... 285 Listening to folk, jazz, or blues ...... 285 Shaking your groove thing ...... 286 Rockin’ the night away ...... 286 Visiting the Watering Holes ...... 288 English and Irish pubs ...... 288 Outstanding brewpubs ...... 288 Neighborhood bars ...... 289 Chic bars and lounges ...... 289 Raising the Curtain on the Performing Arts ...... 290 Calling all thespians: Victoria’s theater scene ...... 290 Locating high art: Opera, dance, and classical music ...... 291 Part V: The Part of Tens ...... 293 Chapter 23: Ten Things YouCan’t Live Without in Vancouver ...... 295 Umbrella ...... 295 Coffee Cup ...... 296 Ring/Stud/Tattoo ...... 296 Hiking Shoes ...... 296 Chopsticks ...... 297 Jeans ...... 297 Bike ...... 297 Sweater ...... 298 Organic Cotton/Hemp Mesh Bag ...... 298 Frisbees and Kites ...... 298 Chapter 24: Ten Things YouCan’t Live Without in Victoria ...... 299 Teacup ...... 299 Malt Vinegar Shaker ...... 299 Beer Stein ...... 300 Golf Clubs ...... 300 Camera or Camcorder ...... 300 Allergy Medication ...... 300 Boat Shoes ...... 300 Cricket Wicket ...... 300 Bike Helmet ...... 301 Umbrella ...... 301 02_836849 ftoc.qxd 6/9/05 6:38 PM Page xx

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Chapter 25: Ten Celebrities You Didn’t Realize Were from the Area ...... 302 Bryan Adams ...... 302 Pamela Anderson ...... 302 Michael Bublé ...... 303 Raymond Burr ...... 303 Hayden Christensen ...... 303 James Doohan ...... 303 Rob Feenie ...... 303 David Foster ...... 304 Michael J. Fox ...... 304 Diana Krall and Nelly Furtado ...... 304 And More Bonus Celebs ...... 304 Appendix: Quick Concierge ...... 307 Fast Facts...... 307 Toll-Free Numbers and Web Sites ...... 312 Where to Get More Information ...... 315 Tourist information offices ...... 315 Newspapers, magazines, and books ...... 315 Index...... 317